Tag: Dalton Highway

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

Day 16 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Lupe barely stirred.  SPHP woke briefly several times.  Eventually, it was light out, a beautiful bright Arctic day, but weariness still overcame.  SPHP could hardly move.  The sandman prevailed.

After yesterday’s amazing, and ultimately triumphant, climb of Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.), Lupe and SPHP had returned to the G6 a little after midnight, the N sky still aglow with twilight.  Lupe had been exceptionally lively on the return trip, but once back at the G6, she devoured an entire can of Alpo and promptly passed out, exhausted.

Twilight at 11:55 PM nearing the G6.
Twilight at 11:55 PM nearing the G6 on the return from Sukakpak Mountain the previous evening.

12:18 PM!  Good grief, it was afternoon already!  Both Lupe and SPHP felt better.  Time to get going.  SPHP drove N a mile or two from the pullout W of Sukakpak Mountain near milepost 203 to a rest stop on the E side of the Dalton Highway.

Lupe explored the bushes and forest nearby, while SPHP straightened up the G6 and picked up trash scattered around the rest stop.  Lupe was surprisingly energetic.  She acted like she could climb Sukakpak Mountain again, today!  SPHP didn’t feel ready for that, but it was a gorgeous day in the Arctic – pale blue skies, puffy white clouds and temperatures in the 60’s °F – something ought to be done with it!

Content with her investigations of the nearby forest, Lupe returned to rest in the shade of the G6.  Now it was SPHP’s turn to feel energetic.  Maybe another mountain ascent was possible?  Only 3 or 4 miles NNE of Sukakpak Mountain, was Dillon Mountain.  SPHP had brought along a Peakbagger.com trip report by Richard Carey, who had climbed not only Sukakpak, but Dillon Mountain, too.

That was it!  Lupe was going to climb Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.)!  Lupe and SPHP piled back into the G6.  SPHP drove N another 2 or 3 miles, crossing the bridge over the Dietrich River before parking the G6 again at a little pullout a short distance beyond milepost 207.  At 1:42 PM (70°F), Lupe and SPHP set off to the SE for Dillon Mountain.

According to Carey’s trip report, Lupe’s first objective was to cross a swampy low plain for more than a mile while aiming for a low saddle N of High Point 2003, where Lupe might be able to find an old road.  High Point 2003 was in view from the Dalton Highway, so it was easy to see which way to go.

The first part of the low plain was open forest, and an easy march over dry land.  Lupe followed an old road a little way.  When the road faded away, there were animal trails to follow.  The forest was soon left behind.  Lupe had reached the swampy part of the plain.

In the middle of August, the swampy plain really wasn’t all that swampy, but it was surprisingly difficult to traverse.  The entire area was full of tussocks, each one surrounded by partially hidden narrow channels, normally full of water.  The channels were up to 2 feet deep, and some of them still did contain water, or were at least muddy.

Walking on top of the tussocks was hard.  Most of them leaned, or collapsed, in unpredictable directions as soon as stepped on.  Walking in the narrow, partially hidden channels between them wasn’t any good either, due to frequent wet or muddy surprises.  Although the plain looked flat as a pancake, progress across it was ridiculously slow and tiring.

A stunted forest could be seen ahead, on the opposite side of the plain where the terrain started rising toward High Point 2003.  The plain became wetter and muddier as Lupe got closer to the forest.  Small ponds appeared.  Finding a dry route became tricky.

Approaching the stunted forest on the SE side of the swampy plain. High Point 2003 (Center) is in view, as well as part of Dillon Mountain (L). Tussocks made crossing this plain far more difficult and tiring than anticipated. Photo looks SE.
Approaching the stunted forest on the SE side of the swampy plain. High Point 2003 (Center) is in view, as well as part of Dillon Mountain (L). Tussocks made crossing this plain far more difficult and tiring than anticipated. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP found a way around the ponds and wet areas.  Lupe reached the forest.  She was about to start the gradual climb toward the saddle N of High Point 2003.  She never got there.  A little way into the forest, SPHP decided to take a breather, and sat down for a short rest.  Lupe laid down to rest, too.

The forest floor was thickly covered with beautiful plants of the tundra.  The ground was spongy, soft and inviting.  Wild blueberries grew everywhere.  SPHP tried a few.  They were much smaller than blueberries sold in stores, but were an exquisite combination of sweetness and tartness.

The tundra was thickly covered with beautiful small plants. They made the forest floor incredibly spongy and soft. The white moss or lichens seen prominently in this photo, tended to grow where the ground was a little drier.
The tundra was thickly covered with beautiful small plants. They made the forest floor incredibly spongy and soft. The white moss or lichens seen prominently in this photo, tended to grow where the ground was a little drier.
Lupe dozing on the soft tundra among the wild blueberries.
Lupe dozing on the soft tundra among the wild blueberries.

SPHP fell into the blueberry trap.  The wild blueberries were small, but oh, so delicious!  They hung on delicate low bushes so closely together that sometimes it was possible to pick 4 or 5 of them at a time.  They grew everywhere.  SPHP sat picking and consuming wild blueberries.  Lupe dozed nearby on the soft, comfy tundra.

Crossing the low plain was supposed to have been the very easy start to the difficult climb up Dillon Mountain.  Instead, it had been much more of a struggle than anticipated.  Neither Lupe nor SPHP had really recovered from Sukakpak Mountain yesterday.

As SPHP consumed blueberries, all ambition drained away.  Time slipped by.  Lupe was happy snoozing.  Soon it was apparent that Dillon Mountain wasn’t happening.  It was too late in the day to try it anyway.  Forget about it!  Maybe tomorrow.

The sky started clouding up.  Soon, raindrops sprinkled over the tundra.  It didn’t look serious, but maybe it was time to head back.  SPHP had noticed a small lake to the N on the way here.  Lupe might as well check it out on her way back to the G6.

Staying farther N helped avoid the worst of the tussocks.  Lupe did find the small lake, which proved to be quite close to the Dalton Highway.  The shore of the lake was swampy.  Lupe and SPHP passed SW of the lake, eventually reaching the dry ground and animal trails leading to the faint old road to the highway.

Lupe reaches the small lake near the swampy S shore. This lake (elevation 1,415 ft. on the Peakbagger.com topo map) is a mile W of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe reaches the small lake near the swampy S shore. This lake (elevation 1,415 ft. on the Peakbagger.com topo map) is a mile W of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe S of the lake. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe S of the lake. Photo looks NNW.
Dillon Mountain from the small lake. Photo looks E.
Dillon Mountain from the small lake. Photo looks E.
On the way back to the G6 after SPHP gave up on Dillon Mountain.
On the way back to the G6 after SPHP gave up on Dillon Mountain.

The rain showers hadn’t amounted to much, but about the time Lupe arrived back at the G6 (4:08 PM), she heard thunder.  The rain started in again.  This time it rained harder.  Lupe and SPHP took shelter in the G6, having a meal and then another nap, while the rain fell outside.

Two or three hours later, SPHP woke up to the sound of Lupe panting.  She was warm in the G6.  Outside it was a cool, comfortable 57°F.  The rain showers had passed on by.  Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6 for an evening stroll.  At first there was no plan.  Lupe and SPHP went N in the ditch on the E side of the Dalton Highway.  Machinery had recently churned the ground up, so it was a little rough.

Soon the small lake was visible again.  It was much closer to the Dalton Highway here, and bigger than SPHP had realized before.  The W shore was also swampy, but Lupe didn’t care.  She ran down into the lake for a drink, and to lay down and cool off.  In a couple of minutes, she came running back.

Lupe and SPHP wandered N in a band of trees W of the lake.  SPHP picked a few more blueberries.  The American Dingo sniffed the exotic unfamiliar smells of the Alaskan tundra.  It was still hard to believe Lupe was really here, 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle along the Dalton Highway in the Brooks Range of the Alaskan Arctic.  Slowly, a simple plan came to mind.

Before ever coming on this Dingo Vacation, SPHP had read online about the Dalton Highway.  It goes 414 miles N to Prudhoe Bay on the Arctic Ocean.  Right now, Lupe was almost exactly halfway there.  The G6 was parked just N of milepost 207.

If it had been possible to simply drive on to the Arctic Ocean, Lupe and SPHP would have done it.  However, access to the ocean is fenced off 8 miles short of the ocean.  Oil companies control the land near the shore.  Since arriving in Alaska, SPHP had heard there were tours reaching the Arctic Ocean from Deadhorse, but had no clue what they might cost, or whether a Carolina Dog would be allowed on them.

No, Lupe wasn’t going on to the Arctic Ocean.  In fact, on this gorgeous evening in the beautiful, remote Brooks Range of Alaska, maybe it was time for Lupe’s last mile N.  It seemed fitting to do it on paw and foot.  Lupe and SPHP returned to the ditch E of the Dalton Highway, and started N.  The torn up ground was rough and unappealing.  Lupe went up on the highway.

Traffic was light, so it would have been easy enough to just walk N along the Dalton Highway.  After 5 minutes, though, SPHP realized there was a dirt road following the Alaska pipeline about 200 or 300 yards off to the W.  Wouldn’t that be more fun?  Of course, it would!  Lupe and SPHP left the highway and headed for the Alaska pipeline.

It was the right decision.  A broad swath of vegetation had been cleared beneath the pipeline, and along the dirt road just W of it.  Lupe had a ton of fun racing into and out of the forest on both sides of the pipeline.  There was no traffic at all.  The pipeline itself was no nuisance, just kind of a dramatic reminder of where Lupe was, as close to the top of the world as she had ever been, or likely ever will be.

Lupe having a blast running around near the Alaska pipeline W of the Dalton Highway and Dillon Mountain. Photo looks N.
Lupe having a blast running around near the Alaska pipeline W of the Dalton Highway and Dillon Mountain. Photo looks N.

A raven appeared, and landed on the Alaska pipeline.  It was curious about what a Carolina Dog was doing way up here in Alaska?  The raven was joined by a few friends.  They seemed to like watching Lupe, and hopping along on top of the pipeline.  Sometimes they flew for short stretches, but they always landed on the pipeline again.  Four ravens flew and hopped, following Lupe on her way N.

One of four ravens that seemed to enjoy using the Alaska oil pipeline as a perch from which to monitor Lupe's activities on her last mile N.
One of four ravens that seemed to enjoy using the Alaska oil pipeline as a perch from which to monitor Lupe’s activities on her last mile N.

The easy stroll N along the pipeline was a wonderful way to spend the evening.  When Lupe had gone about a mile, she came to a clear, rushing stream.  It was flowing W from the valley N of Dillon Mountain toward the Dietrich River.  The water was incredibly clear, and must have been cold, but Lupe waded right in for a taste of the pure water.

Lupe waded right into the incredibly clear, cold stream flowing W from the valley N of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks N.
Lupe waded right into the incredibly clear, cold stream flowing W from the valley N of Dillon Mountain. Photo looks N.
Whoooeeee! These clear waters are Carolina Dog tested and certified pure and cold!
Whoooeeee! These clear waters are Carolina Dog tested and certified pure and cold!
Now that's refreshing! Photo looks N.
Now that’s refreshing! Photo looks N.

For Lupe to go any significant distance farther N, SPHP would have had to ford the stream, or gone E back to the Dalton Highway.  SPHP decided against it.

Lupe had already gone a mile N.  The stream was low this time of year.  Lupe could follow the mostly exposed streambed, which angled NW before reaching the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River.  That confluence could be her point of farthest advance N.  For some reason, the idea appealed to SPHP.  Lupe had no objections.

Lupe on her way along the streambed to this stream's confluence with the Dietrich River. Photo looks NW.
Lupe on her way along the stream bed to this stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River. Photo looks NW.
Carolina Dogs range much farther than their name implies. This one is way up N of the Arctic Circle in Alaska! Carolina Dogs simply consider this extreme northern North Carolina. Of course, it also happens to be part of extreme western West Carolina.

It only took 10 or 12 minutes for Lupe to reach the clear stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River.  Lupe’s last mile N was complete.  She was as far N as she had ever been in her life.  So was SPHP.  Lupe and SPHP sat together for a while on the bank above the river, close to 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle in the Brooks Range of Alaska.

Lupe at the end of her last mile N at the confluence of the clear running stream and the Dietrich River. Photo looks N.
Lupe at the end of her last mile N at the confluence of the clear running stream and the Dietrich River. Photo looks N.

There’s a last time for everything.  Usually though, one doesn’t think about it at the time.  There’s a last day you will ever be in school, a last time you will ever leave the place where you work, or go out the front door of a house you’ve lived in for many years.

There is a last time you will see favorite places you’ve been to hundreds of time, or visit special friends.  There’s a last time you will say good-bye to your parents, your children, your spouse, your pets, and to everyone and everything you have known and loved, and perhaps too often taken for granted.  And there are some points beyond which you will never go.

SPHP stroked Lupe’s fur and praised her.  Lupe listened carefully.  Still farther N, were more beautiful mountains seen through the mist of more rain showers.  Lupe and SPHP had a conversation.  This was an important moment.

Still farther N beyond the Dietrich River were wild boreal mountains seen through the haze of rain showers. Photo looks N.
Still farther N beyond the Dietrich River were wild boreal mountains seen through the haze of rain showers. Photo looks N.

Well, Loopster, this is it.  This is as far N as we are ever likely to be in our entire lives.  We are only a little more than 200 miles S of the Arctic Ocean.  Perhaps less, as those ravens on the pipeline fly.  Once we leave this place, we will probably never, ever be this far N again.  Kind of sad to think about, but this is a gorgeous spot, isn’t it?

Yes, this place is fantastic, but why aren’t we going adventuring all the way to the Arctic Ocean?  Is there something wrong with it?

Well, I don’t know if they will let you on a tour to the Arctic Ocean.  Access is restricted.  It’s still a long way to go just to find out if they will take you.  Probably not worth it.  Remember the Lu-Lu Belle in Valdez?  You couldn’t go on the Lu-Lu Belle, and I doubt you can go to the Arctic Ocean.  Don’t worry, though, you have lots of other adventures lined up ahead of you in Alaska, but they are all farther S than this place.  Besides, I kind of like the idea of stopping here.

Unfair!  Sounds like discrimination against Carolina Dogs to me!  I’d like to see the Arctic Ocean!  Itch my belly would you?  Ahh, better.  Why do you want to stop here, anyway?  We are having such a great time going N!

Yeah, we are having a great time, the best ever maybe.  Perhaps it’s silly, but I guess I’m thinking of calling it good here for several reasons.  First, I don’t know if you can go all the way to the Arctic Ocean.  It doesn’t make any sense to me to drive way up to within 8 miles of it, only to get turned back.  It would be too frustrating, not to mention an unnecessary expense.

Second, even though I doubt we will ever be here again, I kind of want to leave a reason to come back.  See that cool mountain a few miles off to the N?

The dark blue one on the right where it’s raining now?

Yeah, that’s the one.  I like that mountain.  It looks mysterious.  We saw it from the top of Sukakpak yesterday, remember?  Something about me doesn’t want to see the end of the mountains.  Let’s not go all the way to the end of the Brooks Range, or any farther than we are right now.  That way we can still imagine that the mountains continue on forever, that there’s no end to them.

Oh, yeah, that sounds like human logic to me!  Can I interest you in some sweet swampland in Carolina?  The tooth fairy invested down there, you know!

Loop, I’ve been thinking about giving that mysterious mountain a private name.  We can always remember how beautiful it is, and still dream that someday we will return to climb it.  What do you think?

Geez, SPHP!  I think you have whole flights of bats in your belfry.  We are almost to it!  If you want to go climb that mountain, we can do it tomorrow!  Why leave and dream about it till the day you die, when you don’t think we will ever be back?

Well, because it leaves us a goal, a reason to return.  That way we can always tell ourselves we are coming back.  Who knows?  The future isn’t set in stone.  Maybe someday we actually will return.  Besides, we are in the Arctic.  I haven’t done any research on that mountain.  Maybe there’s no way we could climb it.  We might get ourselves in trouble wandering off into unknown territory without so much as a topo map.

Oh, I suppose that makes a little tiny amount of sense, SPHP.  If it makes you happy, whatever.  I still think we could go there tomorrow, and see if we could climb it without any harm done.  So what’s the real name of that mountain, and what name were you thinking of giving it?  By the way, keep petting me, don’t stop!  Dingoes love getting love.  We give lots of love, and expect a little in return, you know.

Of course, sweet puppy!  Let me kiss you on your furry nose.  All better?

Yes, that’s the idea!  Don’t stop!

OK, about that mysterious mountain.  I have no clue what its real name is.  At first I was thinking we could call it Northern Lights Mountain, but I’ve kind of settled on Mountain of the Midnight Sun.  We haven’t actually seen the northern lights by it, but we did see it in twilight last night at midnight on the way back from Sukakpak.

Twilight isn’t the same as seeing the midnight sun.

Well, we would have seen the midnight sun if we’d been here in June instead of August.

Yeah, but who knows how many nights of the year we might be able to see the Northern Lights, here?  Maybe most of them?

Perhaps.  Do you want it to be Northern Lights Mountain, then?

Doesn’t matter to me.  Mountain of the Midnight Sun is fine.  Just saying there wouldn’t have been anything wrong with Northern Lights Mountain.  If you leave it up to me, we’re calling it Squirrel Mountain – now that’s a mountain worth coming back to!  Speaking of the Midnight Sun, do you intend to wait for it right here?  I’d kind of like to go see if there are any squirrels in that forest S of here along the river.

OK, fine.  You can go look for squirrels, but it’s Mountain of the Midnight Sun, not Squirrel Mountain.  You can name the next mountain.  On this one, I’m calling the shots.

Squirrel Mountain - no, wait - Mountain of the Midnight Sun, as seen with help from the telephoto lens at the end of Lupe's last mile N. Brooks Range, Alaska. Photo looks N.
Squirrel Mountain – no, wait – Mountain of the Midnight Sun, as seen with help from the telephoto lens at the end of Lupe’s last mile N. Brooks Range, Alaska. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP left the end of Lupe’s last mile N forever, heading S along the Dietrich River.  At first Lupe stuck with SPHP out on the rocks and sand exposed on the riverbed.  She wasn’t the least bit disappointed, though, when the river swung over the E bank, forcing SPHP up into the forest.

The forest was so exciting, Lupe took off running.  SPHP saw her dashing here and there, but soon she was out of sight.  When she didn’t return for a few minutes, SPHP started calling her before she got so far away she became disoriented and lost.  Lupe didn’t return.

Suddenly, there was shrill American Dingo yelping going on a long way off to the SE, followed by a chattering.  That crazy Carolina Dog actually had found a squirrel in the Arctic!  SPHP pressed on through the forest toward all the commotion.

The forest was dense and jungley.  As is often the case, SPHP made slow progress.  Before SPHP reached the squirrel tree, Lupe had given up on the alarmed and annoyed squirrel.  Most inconsiderately, the squirrel had refused to come down out of the tree to be devoured.  That’s squirrels, for you!  They’re a stubborn lot!  Lupe returned searching for SPHP.  She tracked that slowpoke down in nothing flat.

If the Dietrich River had stayed over by its W bank, it would have been fun to follow the river all the way S to its confluence with the Bettles River near the Dalton Highway, but SPHP had already seen that wasn’t going to work.  Best to just head E back to the Alaska oil pipeline.

Going E, Lupe and SPHP quickly arrived at an open area normally flooded when the Dietrich River ran high.  Ahead was a wide channel of nearly stagnant water.  This sluggish stream looked deep and mucky.  It must have surfaced from underground somewhere back upstream.  Clearly, there wouldn’t be any way to cross it to the S.  Lupe and SPHP turned N again.

45 minutes after Lupe and SPHP headed S forever from the confluence of the clear-running stream and the Dietrich River, Lupe was back!  Funny how things go.  Once again, Lupe and SPHP paused to enjoy this fateful spot.  Finally, it was time to start up the dry streambed of the clear-running stream, heading SE toward the Alaska pipeline.  Like a giant gold nugget, Dillon Mountain glowed in the late evening sunlight.

Golden Dillon Mountain glowing in the late evening sunlight. Photo looks SE.
Golden Dillon Mountain glowing in the late evening sunlight. Photo looks SE.

Lupe reached the Alaska oil pipeline again.  The ravens had flown away.  Lupe and SPHP turned S, following the pipeline.  The evening was gorgeous.  Straight ahead was spectacular Sukakpak Mountain.  Only yesterday, Lupe and SPHP had been at the very top, looking down from a great height.

Lupe romped around in the forests near the pipeline.  As far as she was concerned, this hike was as fabulous as climbing any mountain.  With Sukakpak to admire, it was hard to disagree.

Lupe had a great time again romping around in the forests near the Alaska oil pipeline on the way back S. Spectacular Sukakpak Mountain was dead ahead on the return trip. Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska. Lupe is still racing around at the lower L. Only yesterday, Lupe and SPHP had been at the summit of Sukakpak. Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska. Lupe is still racing around at the lower L. Only yesterday, Lupe and SPHP had been at the summit of Sukakpak. Photo looks S.
Fun times in the Arctic!
Fun times in the Arctic!

Lupe and SPHP followed the Alaska oil pipeline all the way S to where it crossed the Dietrich River.  The Dalton Highway and the G6 weren’t far away now.  Lupe postponed going back to the G6.  The evening was simply too wonderful.  For a little while, Lupe and SPHP wandered NW along rocks and sandbars exposed along the river.

Lupe reaches the Dietrich River again near the Dalton Highway. Photo looks S.
Lupe reaches the Dietrich River again near the Dalton Highway. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP went as far along the exposed riverbed as the river permitted, before it flowed right up against the forested bank.  Well, this was it.  It really was time to go back to the G6.  Sadly, the evening of Lupe’s last mile N was almost over.  On the bright side, at least tomorrow was another adventure!

Lupe heads back to the G6, which is parked as far N as it would ever go beyond milepost 207 along the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NE.

In fact, Lupe wasn’t going any farther S tomorrow than where she was right now.  She was staying here, spending another full day in the far N.  Her ascent of Dillon Mountain was still to come!

Happy Lupe at the end of her last mile N, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-14-16.

Links:

Next Adventure                                Prior Adventure

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Day 15, Part 2 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.

Dead ahead!  There it was – the most famous mountain along the Dalton Highway in the Brooks Range of northern Alaska – Sukakpak!  Lupe was thousands of miles from home, over 90 miles N of where the Dalton Highway crossed the Arctic Circle.  Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) was one of the top highlights Lupe had come all this way to see.

Lupe 200 miles N of the start of the Dalton Highway, and 90 miles N of the Arctic Circle, approaching famed Sukakpak Mountain in the Brooks Range. Photo looks NE.
Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska
Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska

After all the many months of planning and long miles, it was still hard to believe Lupe was really, actually here!  SPHP drove slowly past the mountain, to see it from various angles.  After crossing the Dietrich River near its confluence with the Bettles River, SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near milepost 207.  Lupe went over to the Bettles River for a drink, and to admire Sukakpak from the N.

Lupe at the Bettles River with Sukakpak Mountain in the background. Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain from the Bettles River. Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain from the Bettles River. Photo looks S.

Of course, being an American Dingo of the peakbagging variety, Lupe was here to do more than just admire Sukakpak, she was here to climb it!

It was already late in the day to consider climbing such a large peak, but Lupe and SPHP were full of enthusiasm.  The weather was good, 60°F with thin white clouds, and only a light breeze.  Furthermore, this far N the sun wouldn’t go down until very late.  Even twilight would last a long time.

SPHP had a copy of a trip report from Peakbagger.com written by Richard Carey, who had climbed Sukakpak more than 21 years ago on July 30, 1995.  It would serve as a guide.  Lupe and SPHP returned S to a pullout near milepost 203 located W of Sukakpak Mountain.  It was the obvious, easiest place to begin any ascent of Sukakpak, and was where Carey had started from.  At 1:11 PM, Lupe left the G6, and headed E for the mountain.

Sukakpak Mountain from the pullout near milepost 203 of the Dalton Highway where Lupe started her trek. Photo looks ENE.
Sukakpak Mountain from the pullout near milepost 203 of the Dalton Highway where Lupe started her trek. Photo looks ENE.

The plan was to head SE toward the S end of Sukakpak, as recommended by Carey, but that route proved to be marshy as Carey had indicated.  It seemed easier to head straight E toward the mountain following higher, drier ground until Lupe got above the marshlands.  Lupe gained a fair amount of elevation just getting close to the rock base of Sukakpak.

Approaching the W face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE.
Approaching the W face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE.

When Lupe was high enough to be above all the swampy ground, she turned SSE, still climbing steadily.  As she got closer to the S end of the mountain, she was approaching a steep chute that looked like it might be a shortcut.  Carey had recommended heading toward a gash caused by a landslide at the S end of the mountain.  Maybe this chute was what he had been talking about?  Lupe headed for it.

Lupe now above the swampy ground, and not too far below the steep W rock face. Here she turned SSE working her way toward the SW end of the mountain. The start of the lower end of “The Chute” can be seen almost straight up from Lupe at the base of the rock face. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe and SPHP started climbing up the chute.  To the S was a wall of rock, to the N, the massive S face of Sukakpak.  The chute was steep, full of boulders and small trees, but not too hard a climb.  The view back to the W was steadily improving as Lupe gained elevation.

Lupe on her way up toward the chute at the SW end of Sukakpak. Photo looks NW.
Looking up toward the start of the “The Chute”. Photo looks SE.

The hope was that Lupe would be able to easily pass around the S side of Sukakpak from the top of the chute.  However, the chute was higher and longer than SPHP anticipated.  When Lupe finally reached the top, the situation was more complicated than expected.

Not far away to the SE was a boulder field, and beyond it a forest.  Both rose toward the E, and were clearly viable paths along the S end of Sukakpak.  Unfortunately, there was a minor drop-off to get over to that terrain.  Lupe wouldn’t have any problem negotiating it, but despite not being very high, the drop-off looked treacherous to SPHP.

Maybe it was possible to climb high enough to get beyond the drop-off?  It looked like a reasonable proposition.  Lupe and SPHP left the chute traversing SE toward the easier ground, climbing steadily while looking for a way over to it.

The climb was steep and getting steeper.  It kept looking like the slope would diminish just a little higher up the mountain, but it didn’t.  Over every little rise was another disappointment.  Soon SPHP was hanging onto bushes and anything within reach for support.  Lupe was fine.  She kept appearing above SPHP, looking down with a questioning look on her face.

SPHP wasn’t getting any closer to the safer ground.  In fact, things were getting worse.  The situation became unnerving.  Above, only a scary steep rock slope could be seen.

Loopster, we can’t keep going this way!  Sorry, puppy, but we are rapidly getting into trouble.  I can’t do this, and a mistake would be terrible.  We have to go back down, now!

Slowly, carefully, all the way back down to the chute, then back down it, too.  Lupe lost hundreds of feet of elevation.  What, close to two hours wasted on the chute?  Seemed like it.  However, long it had taken, the chute had been a real setback.  Either Carey’s momma was a mountain goat, or there was a better way.

Was there still time to climb Sukakpak, today?  SPHP wasn’t certain.  May as well try it, though.  Lupe could always turn back, if it was getting too late.  Below the chute, Lupe and SPHP slowly traversed the boulder field to the S.  Lupe finally reached the forest, where it was easier to turn E and start climbing again.

After a considerable climb, the ground leveled out as Lupe topped out on a ridge heading S from Sukakpak’s S face.  The view from the top was discouraging.  SPHP had thought this ridge would lead directly to the easiest way up Sukakpak.  To the N, though, there was a very steep rock slope.  Farther E, across a deep drainage, was another ridge like the one Lupe was on, except it was considerably larger and higher.

Lupe reaches the top of the lower minor S ridge. The larger and higher main S ridge is seen across a deep drainage. Lupe would have to lose a lot of elevation to cross the drainage and get over there. Photo looks E.
Lupe reaches the top of the lower minor S ridge. The larger and higher main S ridge is seen across a deep drainage. Lupe would have to lose a lot of elevation to cross the drainage and get over there. Photo looks E.
Looking up the steep S face of Sukakpak, from somewhere close to the minor S ridge. Carey's trip report indicated it was possible to go up this way, but recommended starting up from the main S ridge farther E instead. SPHP rejected the route seen here as too challenging. Lupe headed for the main ridge, even though it meant losing a bunch of elevation crossing the intervening drainage. Photo looks NNE.
Looking up the steep S face of Sukakpak, from somewhere close to the minor S ridge. Carey’s trip report indicated it was possible to go up this way, but recommended starting up from the main S ridge farther E instead. SPHP rejected the route seen here as too challenging. Lupe headed for the main ridge, even though it meant losing a bunch of elevation crossing the intervening drainage. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe took a little break while SPHP consulted the Carey trip report.  Ugh!  This must be the first ridgeline.  Yeah, Lupe was just above tree line.  Carey said it was possible to go up from here, but easier to contour around the creek drainage to get to the main ridge.  Up from here looked really hard.  No way SPHP could do that.  Lupe would have to go to the main ridge.

Lupe was already so high, and the terrain at the N end of the creek drainage so steep, there wasn’t a lot of contouring to be done.  Before climbing even higher up to the main ridge, Lupe was going to have to lose a bunch of elevation again crossing the drainage.  No other reasonable choice.  OK, whatever.  Puppy, ho!  Onward!

At least navigating through the drainage wasn’t difficult.  It was all straightforward.  Down and around, then up.  Long and tiring, but not scary or impossible.  Lupe made it to the main ridge.

View looking back from the main S ridge. High point 2929 is the big barren hill on the L. The lower minor S ridge of Sukakpak is in view on the R. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.
View looking back from the main S ridge. High point 2929 is the big barren hill on the L. The lower minor S ridge of Sukakpak is in view on the R. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are seen in the distance. Photo looks SW.

The main ridge was interesting.  It was large, long, roomy, and gently rounded at the top.  It stretched for 2 or 3 miles to the SSE, gradually losing elevation.  Lupe found sizable rock formations at the top, but most of the ground was even and covered with small rocks and plants of the tundra.  On the other side of this main ridge, Lupe had a huge sweeping view toward the E of the broad Bettles River valley and many mountains beyond it.

Lupe at the rock formations on top of the higher, main S ridge extending SSE from Sukakpak. From here, Lupe gazes out at the Bettles River valley on the opposite side of the ridge from where she came up. Photo looks SE.
Lupe at the rock formations on top of the higher, main S ridge extending SSE from Sukakpak. From here, Lupe gazes out at the Bettles River valley on the opposite side of the ridge from where she came up. Photo looks SE.
Bettles River valley from the SSE main ridge of Sukakpak. Photo looks ESE.
Bettles River valley from the SSE main ridge of Sukakpak. Photo looks ESE.

Just N of where Lupe reached the main ridge, it joined the steep, rocky S face of Sukakpak.  The only way up from here was N.  Nearly all vegetation was about to be left behind.  The slope looked steep, but it wasn’t as bad as going up from the lower ridge to the W.  There was a sort of trail, too.  It wasn’t maintained in any way, or really of much help, other than as a general guide as to where to start.

Lupe on the main ridge at the base of the S rock face of Sukakpak. A faint trail can be seen starting almost straight above her head. The trail went a little to the R, then zigged well to the L, before zagging back toward the top. This is the easiest way up! Photo looks N.
Lupe on the main ridge at the base of the S rock face of Sukakpak. A faint trail can be seen almost straight above her head. The trail went a little to the R, then zigged well to the L, before zagging back toward the top. This is the easiest way up! Photo looks N.

The route up was plenty steep, especially near the start.  The trail was often braided and full of loose rocks.  Up and up, Lupe went.  The panoramic views of the Brooks Range were becoming incredible.  The sense of being at a great height grew steadily.  Completely unfazed, the Carolina Dog led the way up the mountain, gaining hundreds of feet of elevation.

Gradually, the slope lessened.  Lupe arrived up on a roomy, rounded area that wasn’t completely flat, but not steep at all either.  Close at hand to the W, SPHP did not see, but only perceived, the presence of towering cliffs.  The terrain to the E was also mostly unseen, but perceived to be an incredibly steep slope dropping a thousand feet or more.  Very close to the NNE was a small ridge, not high at all – 10 or 20 feet, which could be easily walked up.  The ridge led up to the W, connecting to a nearby high point immediately to the N.

What would Lupe see on the other side of that small ridge?  Suddenly filled with both hope and apprehension, SPHP followed the unconcerned American Dingo up onto the little NNE ridge.  Unmistakable, half a mile to the NNE, there it was – the true summit of Sukakpak!  It wasn’t all that much higher, a few hundreds of feet. Lupe was almost there!

Lupe on the small ridge she had climbed up from the SSW. (This is actually part of the long ridge leading SE from the false S summit seen on the L.) The true summit of Sukakpak is still 0.5 mile away to the NNE on the R. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks N.
Lupe on the small ridge she had climbed up from the SSW. (This is actually part of the long ridge leading SE from the false S summit seen on the L.) The true summit of Sukakpak is still 0.5 mile away to the NNE on the R. Lupe was almost there! Photo looks N.

Off to the NW, a slightly lower S summit was in view, too.  Lupe was closer to it.  A faint trail was visible traversing the barren, upper E slope below the S summit to a saddle between the two high points.  The trail continued all the way to the true summit.

Climbing W on the little ridge to the closest high point, perhaps only 50 feet higher than where Lupe was now, was clearly the only route from here toward the trail below the S summit.  Lupe and SPHP started up.  The ridge narrowed as Lupe got close to the top.  Right on up went Lupe, but SPHP crouched down before the final few steps, ultimately collapsing against the rocks a foot or two below the absolute top.

Just as tightly as SPHP gripped the rocks, fear gripped SPHP.  Lupe came close, to see what was the matter.  Petting her helped a little.  The views were daunting enough.  What was only sensed, but still unseen was terrifying.  To the N, the steep slope of the E face of Sukakpak dropped away ever more steeply many hundreds of feet into the abyss.  That could be seen.  Just 2 or 3 feet W of Lupe, were perceived, but unseen precipices of towering height.

A narrow, level ridge, a couple feet wide, extended to the NW for 20 feet to a rise only inches high.  To the R (NE) of it was the start of the long slide into the abyss.  To the L (SW), the unseen precipice.  Close by, nothing could be seen beyond the little rise 20 feet away.  Farther off, the ridge clearly continued for quite a distance, rising ultimately to the false S summit.

Taking the narrow, level ridge would be like walking the plank.  What was beyond the little rise?  SPHP feared a drop-off of some sort.  Climbing straight down a wall of rock even a short distance from such a narrow perch was virtually unthinkable.  Lupe and SPHP were only day hikers, not mountaineers!  There was nothing at home in the Black Hills like this to compare with.  What was Lupe doing up on this little point of rock in the sky N of the Arctic Circle!?

Minutes ticked away.  At a vast height, Lupe and SPHP sat immobile, surrounded by fabulous wild mountains of the Brooks Range in the Arctic.  Yet, courage could not be summoned.  The monster, Fear, only grew.

I’m sorry, Loop.  I’m truly sorry!  I can’t do this.  It’s too much.  I know you could have made it, and you are so very close, sweet puppy, so very, very close, but I need to go down.  Let’s try to get a photo or two, first.  It’s over.

A few quick photos at the top, and Lupe and SPHP started back down.  If Lupe was disappointed, she didn’t show it.  Fifty feet lower, back where Lupe had first climbed onto this part of the ridge, SPHP had her pose with the true summit of Sukakpak in the background.  It was to be her souvenir photo showing how very close to success Lupe had been.

As close as Lupe got before SPHP led her back down. The slightly lower S summit is seen on the L, the true summit more distant on the R. Part of the narrow "plank" beyond which SPHP could not see the nearby terrain, heads off to the L from Lupe. Photo looks NW.
As close as Lupe got before SPHP led her back down. The slightly lower S summit is seen on the L, the true summit more distant on the R. Part of the narrow “plank” beyond which SPHP could not see the nearby terrain, heads off to the L from Lupe. Photo looks NW.
Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.) to the NNE.
Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.) (Center) to the NNE.
Bettles River valley. Photo looks ESE.
Bettles River valley. Photo looks ESE.
Lupe where she first reached the ridge above the roomy, rounded area. The valley between Dillon Mountain (L), and Wiehl Mountain (partly out of view on the R) is seen beyond her. Photo looks NE.
Lupe where she first reached the ridge above the roomy, rounded area. The valley between Dillon Mountain (L), and Wiehl Mountain (partly out of view on the R) is seen beyond her. Photo looks NE.
Lupe's souvenir shot showing how very close to reaching the summit of Sukakpak she had gotten. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe’s souvenir shot showing how very close to reaching the summit of Sukakpak she had gotten. Photo looks NNW.

Only a couple of steps down off Point Fear, a tremendous sense of relief flooded into SPHP.  Yeah, it was too bad Lupe didn’t get to finish her climb of Sukakpak, but not doing something stupid was just smart.  She had gotten to see the mountain, and make 90% of the climb.  Just being here, seeing Sukakpak, getting this far, and seeing these awe (not to mention, terror) -inspiring views was a tremendous accomplishment.  It was something Lupe and SPHP would always remember.

Even SPHP didn’t believe that crap.  For 10 minutes, SPHP apologized profusely to Lupe.  She paid close attention, but only seemed bewildered.  She licked SPHP’s hand, trying to make it better.

After the souvenir photos were taken, Lupe and SPHP left the little ridge and went back down to the roomy, rounded area.  To the S was the increasingly steep slope leading way back down to Sukakpak’s main ridge extending SSE.  Time to descend.

Lupe on the roomy, rounded area near its SW edge. The Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and Dalton Highway are in view below. Photo looks SW.
Lupe on the roomy, rounded area near its SW edge. The Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and Dalton Highway are in view below. Photo looks SW.

SPHP hesitated.  Lupe gazed up wonderingly.  She was smiling.  What was the hold up?  What was going on?  There was a problem.  SPHP couldn’t go down.  Fear lay in that direction, too – a fear that was growing fast.  Not the fear of falling, but yes, still the fear of doing something stupid.

Fear of regret, fear of failure, were both waiting to ambush SPHP only a little farther down the mountain.  And SPHP knew it.  If SPHP went down any farther, it was certain Lupe would never be back to claim success.  Yes, Lupe and SPHP would always remember being here, on glorious Sukakpak Mountain so close to triumph – and SPHP would always remember being a coward.

Lupe was more than 3,000 miles from home.  She had come all this way to Sukakpak Mountain to climb it.  The summit of Sukakpak, the most famous mountain along the Dalton Highway, way up here N of the Arctic Circle, had been the most coveted of all the mountaintops SPHP had hoped Lupe would be able to reach on her long Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation.  It was to have been her crowning glory.

A mental war raged.  SPHP hadn’t even seen the feared drop at the far end of the “plank”.  Was it even real?  Conditions were perfect for climbing Sukakpak – no wind, no snow, no ice, comfortable temperatures, blue skies and little white clouds.  Carey hadn’t mentioned any technical aspects to the route in his trip report, surely he would have if there were any, wouldn’t he?  Maybe not.  Carey had been to Nepal, climbed Denali and Kilimanjaro.  No doubt Sukakpak was mere child’s play to him.

One of the things bugging SPHP was the feeling that maybe Lupe wasn’t really on the correct route.  It seemed like she had to be, but mountains can be tricky.  Did the cliffs to the SW of Fear Point exist, or was there an easier way up from that direction?  Lupe and SPHP went over near the edge of the roomy, rounded area to take a look.  Still nervous, SPHP got only close enough to see that those cliffs were real enough.  No way in hell would anyone go up that way.

Loopster, let’s try again.  No guarantees, but let’s take another look.  I’ve at least got to see what it is I’m afraid of.  Maybe I can do that much now.  Lupe was game.  She always is, for anything not totally nuts.

The second time up was easier.  Fear made SPHP crouch again a little near the top, but did not pin SPHP to the ground.  SPHP walked out onto the fearsome “plank”.  Two or three steps, then … JOY!  Jubilation!

Loop, LOOP!  You’re going to make it, sweet puppy!  We’re on our way!  OMG, to think we almost left!  It would have been an epic fail!

What SPHP saw beyond the inches high rise at the end of the plank was a slight dip, nothing more.  There was no big drop.  That was all a figment of SPHP’s imagination.  A step down or two, that was it!  A clear, though seldom-used trail stretched NW along the narrow ridgeline, on the way toward the S summit.  Lupe and SPHP made rapid, joy-filled progress.

Nearing the S summit, Lupe did reach one significant drop.  The drop was about 10 feet down from a ledge, but near the end of the ledge were a few naturally well-positioned big rocks.  SPHP climbed down carefully, but easily enough.  Lupe jumped down from one rock to the next.  Lupe was now quite close to the S summit.  The path to the true summit was wide open and unobstructed ahead.

Nearing the false S summit (L). Nothing stands in Lupe's way to the true summit (R) now! Photo looks NNW.
Nearing the false S summit (L). Nothing stands in Lupe’s way to the true summit (R) now! Photo looks NNW.

The trail didn’t go up the S summit, instead skirting it to the E.  Lupe stayed on the trail.  Soon she was beyond the S summit.  To the N was Lupe’s long sought objective, the true summit of Sukakpak.  To the W was a long line of giant cliffs.  No matter, the trail just stayed a little to the E.

Now past the false S summit, Lupe follows the easy trail to success. What a fun, awesome, happy trek this was! Photo looks NNW.
Now past the false S summit, Lupe follows the easy trail to success. What a fun, awesome, happy trek this was! Photo looks NNW.
The W cliffs were very close to the trail at one point. Lupe could see the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and the Dalton Highway 3,000 feet below. Photo looks W.
The W cliffs were very close to the trail at one point. Lupe could see the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River and the Dalton Highway 3,000 feet below. Photo looks W.

The whole trek from the “plank” to the summit of Sukakpak Mountain was amazing, easy, full of joy, happiness, and breath-taking views.  A short scramble up a slope of loose dirt and rock brought Lupe to the top.  Success, wonderful, stupendous, glorious, success!  Lupe was here, at the summit of Sukakpak!

Yes, yes, YES! Lupe at the summit cairn on Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks N.
Yes, yes, YES! Lupe at the summit cairn on Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks N.

Lupe on Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, AK 8-13-16

Looking along the jagged NNW ridge of Sukakpak from the summit cairn. Below on the R, the confluence of the Dietrich and Bettles River to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River can be seen. The distant mountain on the R side of the photo is the mountain Lupe and SPHP came to call the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Photo looks N.
Looking along the jagged NNW ridge of Sukakpak from the summit cairn. Below on the R, the confluence of the Dietrich and Bettles River to form the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River can be seen. The distant mountain on the R side of the photo is the mountain Lupe and SPHP came to call the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Photo looks N.

There were cliffs immediately to the W and N of the summit.  The cairn sat at the top of the mountain on a tiny area with little extra room.  Lupe and SPHP relaxed a foot or two below and SE of the cairn.  The unfamiliar feeling of having conquered fear added to the joy of being here.  All around were mountains of the Brooks Range, bathed in the slanting sunlight of the far N.  Lupe was really here, way up on Sukakpak in the Arctic!

SPHP praised Lupe and stroked her soft fur.  She listened very carefully.  She was soothed so much, she soon dozed at SPHP’s side.  Wonderful, tired puppy!  All around were tremendous views Lupe and SPHP would most likely never see again.  SPHP thought about the long journey that brought Lupe here, adventures from long ago, adventures yet to come, the relentless, unmerciful passage of time.

45 precious, beautiful minutes ticked by.  It was getting late.  Lupe was ready.  A few more pictures were in order before leaving the splendor of Sukakpak.

Looking S from the summit. Part of the trail, the lower S summit, and much of the long, narrow ridge Lupe had to climb are in view. Even the more gently rounded, lower green "main" ridge is seen far below on the L trailing off to the SSE.
Looking S from the summit. Part of the trail, the lower S summit, and much of the long, narrow ridge Lupe had to climb are in view. Even the more gently rounded, lower green “main” ridge is seen far below on the L trailing off to the SSE.
Looking SW at mountains of the Brooks Range. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are 3,000 feet below.
Looking SW at mountains of the Brooks Range. The Dalton Highway and Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River are 3,000 feet below.
Looking S, possibly at Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) using the telephoto lens. The 10 foot drop Lupe and SPHP had to negotiate on the ridgeline is in view in the foreground near (Center).
Looking S, possibly at Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) (Center) using the telephoto lens. The 10 foot drop Lupe and SPHP had to negotiate on the ridgeline is in view in the foreground near (Center).  The trail leads right to it.
The lower S summit of Sukakpak is bathed in sunlight on the L. Much lower down is bare, rounded High Point 2929 (Center). Photo looks SSW.
The lower S summit of Sukakpak is bathed in sunlight on the L. Much lower down is bare, rounded High Point 2929 (Center). Photo looks SSW.
Lupe near the summit cairn, before saying good-bye to Sukakpak. Photo looks NNW.

There was no other plausible way back, other than the way Lupe had come up.  The return trip was incredible, and still a little scary, but Lupe and SPHP had no problems.  It was a fun, happy, spectacularly beautiful time together.

Starting back, still near the true summit. Looking SSW along the trail.
Starting back, still near the true summit. Looking SSW along the trail.
Now below and SE of the S summit. Going down the long SE ridge which eventually leads to SPHP's "plank" and Point Fear. Bettles River is seen on the L.
Now below and SE of the S summit. Going down the long SE ridge which eventually leads to SPHP’s “plank” and Point Fear. Bettles River is seen on the L.
Lupe makes it back down to the start of the higher "main" SSE ridge at the base of the S face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE toward Wiehl Mountain.
Lupe makes it back down to the start of the higher “main” SSE ridge at the base of the S face of Sukakpak. Photo looks ENE toward Wiehl Mountain.

Once down at the start of the higher, main SSE ridge at the base of the S face of the mountain, all the scarier parts of the return trip were over.  Lupe just had to go W down into the drainage, then back up to the lower S ridge she had been on much earlier in the day.  From there it was downhill all the way.  Lupe and SPHP passed through forest, boulder fields, and finally, way down below, the swampy ground leading to the G6 (12:08 AM).

Twilight at 11:55 PM nearing the G6.
Twilight at 11:55 PM nearing the G6.

After midnight, still light in the sky!  The Arctic was such an amazing place.  What a day it had been – the Dalton Highway, crossing the Yukon River, Finger Mountain, reaching the Arctic Circle, and finally – the never to be forgotten moments of fear, cowardice, courage and joy climbing Sukakpak Mountain!

Lupe on her way back to the G6 atop the rock formations on the SSE main ridge below the S face of Sukakpak, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-13-16.
Lupe on her way back to the G6 atop the rock formations on the SSE main ridge below the S face of Sukakpak, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-13-16.

Many thanks to Richard Carey, whose Sukakpak Mountain trip report on Peakbagger.com both inspired and helped make this Lupe adventure come true.

Related Links:

Next Adventure                               Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

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