Dalton Highway – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Alaskan North Slope Dingo – Deadhorse or Bust! (8-20-17)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

4:54 AM, 38°F, S bank of the Atigun River near the Dalton Highway bridge – Fog. Again. So what else was new? Despite fog, rain, and snow, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) yesterday. The day before that, she’d seen Galbraith lake and made it to the S edge of the North Slope beyond the Brooks Range, as far N as she had ever been in her life. So Loop had accomplished what had been planned here. Time to head S.

And yet the North Slope had been so enticing and mysterious! It would have been fun to go farther N, all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Deadhorse was only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean and only another 140 miles or so from here. If there had been easy access to the ocean, Lupe would have gone for sure, despite the weather. An Arctic Ocean adventure, even a short one, would be so incredible! However, all along the coast and for several miles inland, energy companies maintain tight security. Although it was possible to take a paid tour from Deadhorse to the Arctic Ocean, SPHP already knew Dingoes weren’t allowed.

When Lupe had been in the Brooks Range last year, she had met several people who had gone all the way to Deadhorse, or were on their way there. Those who had already been there had reported seeing arctic foxes, snowy owls, caribou, and even musk oxen out on the North Slope. No one said anything favorable about Deadhorse, though. It was just an ugly industrial complex, not even a town, with nothing to do there.

No, without access to the Arctic Ocean for the Carolina Dog, and this foggy weather, it was hard to justify going any farther N. Lupe had lots more adventures planned elsewhere in Alaska. Best get on with it. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was on her way S. The sky was completely overcast. Only a thin fog was present near ground level. Loop could see a mile or two to the base of the mountains. (5:15 AM)

Lupe along the Dalton Highway on her way S to Atigun Pass. Photo looks S.

The Atigun Pass area was darkly overcast. It was snowing, and the snow was beginning to stick. The mountains were white, where they could be seen through the fog. The Dalton Highway was slushy, but the G6 made it to the top of the pass. Lupe and SPHP got out to experience winter in August. (6:18 AM)

Loop at **Atigun Pass** in the **Brooks Range** for the second time in only a couple of days. This time she was heading S.

The weather was better S of Atigun Pass. Lupe stopped briefly at the Chandalar Shelf. The top of Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was partly in view, and partly obscured by clouds. A fair amount of snow seemed to be present on what could be seen of the summit, but none existed below the final steep climb.

Heading down the S side of Atigun Pass. Photo looks SW.

The weather was somewhat better S of Atigun Pass. The sky wasn’t as darkly overcast and it wasn’t foggy out. Photo looks S while still on the way down from the pass.

Lupe still hadn’t climbed Table Mountain. Table Mountain was the only peak on her original list of objectives along the Dalton Highway for this Dingo Vacation that she hadn’t climbed yet. She was here plenty early in the day. Still, the weather looked pretty iffy. Not foggy, but still lots of clouds hanging around.

As much fun as Table Mountain might have been, after yesterday’s adventure in cold rain, snow, and fog up on Lake Benchmark Mountain, SPHP decided maybe Lupe would be smart to skip it. Conditions were marginal. The weather wouldn’t have to deteriorate much before Loop wouldn’t be able to see a thing up there, even if she did make it to the top. Sad, but true. Onward!

Beyond the Chandalar Shelf, down in the Dietrich River valley, the weather continued to improve. Lupe even saw patches of blue sky. It must have been somewhat sunny here over the past couple of days. The Dalton Highway was much drier now, a vast improvement. The G6 whizzed along at a lively 45 mph!

Lupe reached the Coldfoot visitor center at 9:00 AM. A sign said it was closed until 11:00 AM. Hmm. SPHP drove over to Coldfoot camp on the other side of the Dalton Highway. The American Dingo had to wait in the G6 while SPHP disappeared into the restaurant.

The wait was longer than Lupe expected. Coldfoot camp had a breakfast buffet going on. All you can eat for only $14.95, an absolute bargain way up here N of the Arctic Circle! SPHP ate an enormous breakfast – eggs, pancakes, muffins, sausage, bacon, ham, water, root beer, and coffee. It was great! More than hour after SPHP went in, Lupe got to enjoy a few pieces of smuggled out bacon.

SPHP gassed up the G6, another bargain at only $4.599 per gallon, and Loop was on her way again on the Dalton Highway.

Whoa, SPHP! Wrong way!

Nope! We’re fine, Loopster.

No, we’re not! You turned R, we’re going back N again!

Yeppers!

I thought we were going S. Aren’t we leaving the Arctic?

We were, but now we’re not.

Why not? Where are we going then?

It’s Deadhorse or bust, Loopster! I changed my mind. We can’t just leave! You’re going to go as far N as we can get. We’ve come all this way clear up to the Brooks Range two years running now. Just doesn’t feel right not to go all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway. We may never return. This may be our last chance. Whether we can see anything or not out on the North Slope, and whether or not you can get to the Arctic Ocean, we’re just going to do it.

Oh, exciting! I hope we see some caribou and musk ox on the North Slope! A polar bear would be totally awesome! Can I ask a favor, though?

Sure, what is it?

Since we’re going to go by it again, can we stop at the Dietrich River and go on my 2016 Last Mile North adventure by the Alaska oil pipeline again? I love that place!

Of course! That’s a great idea. We’ll do it, but maybe just to the stream N of Dillon Mountain instead of all the way to its confluence with the Dietrich River. I drove so far S before changing my mind that Deadhorse is a long way off now, and who knows what the road will be like N of the Brooks Range? I’m hoping we can still get to Deadhorse tonight.

Lupe did get to go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again! Even though she didn’t get to go all the way to the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River, Loop had a blast! So easy, and so much fun!

Lupe at the stream that flows W from N of **Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.)** (R). This was Lupe’s 3rd time now on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure, which has become a real favorite. Photo looks SE.

Then it was N again, on to the Chandalar Shelf. It was nearly 1:00 PM when Lupe arrived this time. Weather conditions hadn’t changed much since this morning. Once again SPHP deemed conditions too iffy, and now the hour too late, to seriously consider an ascent of Table Mountain.

Lupe returns to the **Chandalar Shelf**. She’s about 9 miles from Atigun Pass here. Photo looks ESE.

Looking S across the **Chandalar Shelf** toward **Table Mountain**. The top of the mountain is completely hidden in the clouds. SPHP again concluded conditions weren’t right for an ascent.

When Lupe went over Atigun Pass again, the weather was better than it had been early this morning. It was no longer snowing. The slushy snow on the Dalton Highway had melted. There were even patches of blue sky. The mountains were visible now, instead of cloaked with fog. They looked dramatic – all clean, cold and white.

Heading N again on the way to Atigun Pass from the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks NE.

Lupe near the Dalton Highway N of Atigun Pass again.

The mountains of the **Brooks Range** looked clean, cold and white.

The better weather did not extend much beyond Atigun Pass. Soon the sky was totally overcast again. As Lupe followed the Atigun River N, the mountains were all hidden in clouds and fog.

Yesterday morning, Lupe had taken her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, a short hike not far from milepost 278 of the Dalton Highway out onto the tundra. At the time, it had seemed likely to be as far N as Lupe was ever going to be in her whole life. Due to the current sudden change of plans, however, that was already no longer true. Still, the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll had been a fun experience. Why not repeat it before continuing N and setting a new record? Lupe was totally in favor of the idea. (2:33 PM, 41°F)

This time, SPHP went 500 feet beyond the endpoint of Lupe’s first Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Lupe went even farther, racing 200 yards past SPHP out over the yellow tundra, sniffing and exploring as she went.

On her 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventure, Lupe went even farther than she did yesterday morning. Photo looks NW.

The mood of Lupe’s second Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was entirely different. Instead of being the expected end of all her explorations N, this time it was merely a preliminary launching point. Lupe wasn’t going to have to turn around having seen only the very S end of the North Slope. From here, Lupe was going all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Who knew what she might see along the way? It was all a grand mystery. A mystery about to be revealed.

This 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll felt different. This time it was not the expected end of Lupe’s explorations N, but a launching point. This time it was Deadhorse or bust! An exciting new adventure was about to begin! Who knew what Lupe might see out on Alaska’s North Slope? It was all a mystery about to be revealed! Photo looks WNW.

When Lupe returned to the G6 at 3:20 PM, the adventures of the North Slope Dingo were about to begin in earnest. If the G6 was tough enough, only 136 more miles on the Dalton Highway would bring the American Dingo to its far N end at milepost 414 in Deadhorse. Though Lupe would never get to Alaska’s N coast due to security restrictions, the Carolina Dog would be only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean!

And so it began. Leaving the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll behind, Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Dalton Highway. The road was fine for a number of miles. Lupe soon saw Toolik Lake off to the W. The highway made a sharp turn to the E here.

The weather deteriorated. Mist and light rain. The Dalton Highway was full of mud puddles. The road went up and down over a series of hills. The most worrisome stretches were where the road was soft and muddy, but that wasn’t its most common condition. Far more often it was rough and washboardy, with long stretches of jarring potholes.

The G6 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse. The only defense against the rough road was to drive very slowly. That was OK. It didn’t actually matter how long it took the Carolina Dog to get to Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway went NE for a while before turning N again. A dozen miles from the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, Lupe saw two seagulls!

4:14 PM, 110 to 115 miles from Deadhorse – The road has improved, no longer as rough and full of potholes as it had been going over the hills. To the W is a fairly high mountain, a lone one with its top lost in clouds and mist. It isn’t far from the Dalton Highway. If the weather was better, maybe Lupe could climb it? What can be seen of it certainly looks climbable. Remember this mountain for the return trip S!

Farther away off to the E and NE are lots more mountains, no doubt a continuation of the Brooks Range. However, there is no way to get over there. From the G6, Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between the highway and those mountains to the E.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway 110-115 miles from Deadhorse. The rain and mist have finally let up, but it’s still a low ceiling day. Photo looks NE.

Oh, that looks like a fun, easy mountain to climb! No way to get over there, though. Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between here and there from the G6. Photo looks SE.

4:40 PM, 105 miles from Deadhorse – Since leaving the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway has only come to small streams. Up until now, that is. The large river Lupe caught glimpses of earlier is now only 300 to 600 feet E of the road. This must be the Sagavanirktok River. The Sag flows N all the way to Deadhorse, where it empties into the Beaufort Sea. It’s not yet a huge river. The Sagavanirktok is only slightly lower in elevation than the highway. The intervening ground appears quite swampy.

An industrial complex is on the W side of the highway, presumably some sort of pumping or maintenance station for the Alaska oil pipeline.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N near the Dalton Highway on its way to Deadhorse and the Beaufort Sea. Photo looks N.

Although most of the North Slope appeared to be as yet almost totally unspoiled, every so often Lupe came to industrial areas like this one. They were almost certainly somehow connected with maintenance or operation of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SW.

Looking back toward some of the foothills of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

5:05 PM – Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Alaska oil pipeline, and Dalton Highway from Oil Spill Hill. The road subsequently drops down into the river valley for several miles before climbing back out of it at Ice Cut.

Once the **Sagavanirktok River** gets close to the Dalton Highway, the river parallels the road the rest of the way to Deadhorse. However, it’s not always in view like this. Photo looks NE.

Although Lupe watched for wildlife along the **Sagavanirktok River** for a long time, she never saw anything other than birds. That was disappointing. A musk ox would have been really cool! Photo looks NE.

5:15 PM, 90 miles to Deadhorse – Now that the Dalton Highway is up out of the Sagavanirktok River valley N of Ice Cut, the river is out of sight. The North Slope is a golden rolling featureless land stretching as far as one can see to low hills on the horizon. Larger hills are off to the E beyond the Alaska oil pipeline, but the Brooks Range is no longer in view. To the W there is nothing except a distant tower on a gentle rise.

The North Slope Dingo seems to have lost hope of seeing any wildlife in this barren land. She’s taken to snoozing.

The **North Slope** about 90 miles from Deadhorse. Golden boreal tundra stretches to low hills on the horizon. A lone tower (L) sits atop a gentle rise. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

80 miles from Deadhorse – Widely scattered patches of sunlight appear on the yellow tundra. A few patches of blue sky exist. The clouds are low, but apparently not that thick.

The North Slope Dingo is awake again, but still has seen no animals. The reason is becoming increasingly clear. For many miles, pickup trucks have often been in view parked along the access roads to the Alaska oil pipeline, especially near the Sagavanirktok River. People are sometimes seen nearby. They often wear at least some orange. Hunters! No wonder whatever wildlife exists has fled beyond vision. Sad.

76 miles from Deadhorse – Pavement! The first pavement since S of the Atigun River 75 miles ago. A nice 6 or 7 mile stretch, then it’s back to mud and gravel.

6:00 PM, 45°F, 67 miles from Deadhorse – The Sagavanirktok River, which has only occasionally been visible from the Dalton Highway, now curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs that has been in view for miles. The bluffs had been bathed in sunlight, but by the time the North Slope Dingo arrives for a photo, the light is past its best. Minutes later it is gone.

67 miles from Deadhorse, the **Sagavanirktok River** curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs. Photo looks NE.

6:20 PM, 62 miles from Deadhorse – The North Slope Dingo stops at a rare pullout about 0.25 mile N of the top of a big, very gently sloping hill. The river is nowhere in sight here, but a faint rainbow is off to the NE. The boreal tundra is a yellow patchwork of sunlight and fog. As clouds and fog drift by, patterns of light and shadow move W to E across a golden land sliding away to the N. Overhead a patch of blue sky sails by.

No traffic at all lately. Even the hunters don’t seem to be out and about.

62 miles from Deadhorse, the North Slope Dingo spied this faint rainbow. Photo looks ENE.

The boreal tundra is a patchwork of sunlight and shadow as low clouds, fog, and bits of blue sky drift by. Photo looks NNE.

Same view with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

Almost immediately after leaving the faint rainbow and partially sunlit tundra behind, SPHP drives into rain and fog. A few minutes later, the Dalton Highway is paved again, but this time only for a couple of miles. Then it’s back to the usual mud and gravel. 4 or 5 miles later, a sign says road work next 51 miles, basically the rest of the way to Deadhorse. Get stopped by a flagman who says it’s a 20 minute wait.

The flagman has been working here every day since June 9th. $30/hr base pay and $45/hr overtime. Most days are 13 hours, and some are as many as 16. He has seen caribou, musk oxen, wolves, grizzly and polar bears, and lots of birds. Lupe will only have to follow the pilot car for 14 miles. The G6 is the only vehicle following the pilot car once it arrives. The pilot car races along the muddy road at 40 mph.

7:38 PM, 30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse – No traffic at all. The land is very flat. A 2 tiered bluff exists a mile to the E. To the W, nothing but a tiny hill in otherwise level terrain. 6 geese are flying S.

30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse the Dalton Highway is damp, but in good shape. The terrain is like a pancake. Photo looks N.

A mile E of the highway is a 2 tiered bluff. Photo looks ENE.

8:17 PM, 42°F, 15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse – Saw the sun’s position through a weak spot in the clouds about 15 minutes ago. The sun won’t set for another 2.5 hours yet. For the past 10 miles, the Dalton Highway has been on a roadbed raised 15 feet above the surrounding terrain. The terrain is even flatter than before. Most of it appears to be part of a vast swamp, with occasional stretches of open water.

The Sagavanirktok River was briefly in view again lurking near the base of the 2 tier bluff. That bluff ran for miles along the same course before coming to an end. A single tier bluff then picked up again a mile ENE of the highway close to where the 2 tier bluff faded away. It also runs for miles. The bluff is now several miles from the Dalton Highway, hidden by fog.

The sky is uniformly gray. Visibility is only a mile or two. Lupe saw a couple of small buttes off to the W looking like ghosts on the horizon. They didn’t amount to much.

15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway is on a raised roadbed about 15 feet above the surrounding swampy terrain. A fairly large stretch of open water is seen beyond Loop. Photo looks NE.

The Dalton Highway remains on a raised roadbed like this the rest of the way to Deadhorse. The North Slope Dingo was now assured of getting there! Photo looks N.

8:54 PM – Success! It’s like a dream. The North Slope Dingo has made it to the outskirts of Deadhorse. The end of the Dalton Highway is only a couple of miles farther. Lupe is what, maybe 8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay?

Deadhorse is as others have described it to SPHP – an industrial complex almost exclusively dedicated to the energy industry. Nothing resembling a town is in sight. Not a single house or residential street. No business district catering to the public.

The closest thing to a retail business is Deadhorse Camp, which Loop finds near the start of Deadhorse on the L. It’s a hotel of sorts, catering mostly to oilfield workers who essentially live there, but also to members of the public who manage to make it to the end of the Dalton Highway. It’s also where it’s possible to arrange for a shuttle bus tour to the Arctic Ocean.

Success! The North Slope Dingo arrives on the outskirts of **Deadhorse**. As expected, everything in sight has an industrial look to it. No sign of any traditional town at all.

**Deadhorse** is 99% about the energy business and producing oil for the Alaska oil pipeline, which starts here.

One unexpected thing about **Deadhorse** and the energy industry it serves was how spread out it all was. Wide areas of swamp and tundra separate numerous far flung industrial installations.

Geese like to hang out around the Deadhorse Camp building.

Oh, yeah! Here’s proof that the North Slope Dingo made it all the way to **Deadhorse.** Lupe stands outside the Deadhorse Camp building, located on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching Deadhorse. This is one of several “hotels” in Deadhorse. They all have a similar appearance. Some only accommodate oilfield workers.

Even though SPHP had been told on the phone before Lupe ever left home that Dingoes aren’t allowed to take the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP was still planning on asking again for Lupe. Maybe it was still possible with enough in-person groveling or bribery?

The Arctic Ocean shuttle! That was what Loop wanted to take. If she was refused, she would have to send SPHP as her personal representative.

Now that the North Slope Dingo was in Deadhorse, SPHP wasn’t certain exactly what to do. Looking for a gas station seemed like a good place to start. From Deadhorse Camp, SPHP drove farther into Deadhorse. After a couple of bends, the Dalton Highway finally ended at a T intersection. SPHP took a left and eventually stumbled upon the Prudhoe Bay Hotel near the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Deadhorse Airport.

Unused drilling rigs stand lined up across a lake in Deadhorse.

Alaska Airlines seems to be the only airline serving the Deadhorse airport. The terminal was closed when Loop arrived on a Sunday night.

While Lupe remained in the G6, SPHP went into the Prudhoe Bay Hotel seeking information. Signs in the entryway commanded that everyone entering wear disposable boot covers to help keep the place clean. Free, bright blue slip-on boot covers were available from a box. SPHP put a pair on, then went on in.

Long well lit hallways led off in 3 directions. Not a soul was in sight. The front desk turned out to be some distance down the hall straight ahead from the entrance. A clerk gave SPHP a free map of Deadhorse on a single sheet of paper, and circled where the 2 gas stations are located. After thanking the clerk, SPHP wandered the hallways.

A large map of Alaska’s N coast was framed under glass on one wall. It showed the locations of numerous energy installations, and the names of a great many geographical features. Lots of history was provided on who first explored the Alaskan coast and named various islands, points, peninsulas, etc. The map was extraordinarily interesting. SPHP read much of it, which took a while. Meanwhile, absolutely no one came or went in the silent hall.

Light was fading when SPHP returned to Loop, still waiting patiently in the G6. It was starting to get foggy. One of the gas stations was close by. It was a small unmanned facility. SPHP couldn’t even figure out how to work it. Splendid. Oh, well. Can figure it out tomorrow.

Loop and SPHP drove around Deadhorse a bit. There weren’t many roads, yet it seemed like a maze. In growing darkness and gloomy fog, the whole place was sort of eerie. Almost no traffic at all. Now and then a pickup truck or semi truck appeared, then vanished. No one was out and about. Deadhorse was sort of a ghost town, but then it was late on a Sunday night and energy prices were depressed. Maybe like Skagway, Deadhorse would be busier Monday morning?

Lupe and SPHP drove past clusters of energy related service businesses. They were all dark, except for security lights. Widely scattered in the distance were more clusters of buildings, some quite brightly lit. No houses, no businesses of any kind other than energy related companies and a few boxy “hotels”. Weird, kind of creepy, but cool, too.

Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP drove back to within sight of Deadhorse Camp. Several pickup trucks with campers were parked at big pullouts overlooking the Sagavanirktok River. Even a few tents were pitched out on the gravel. Apparently it was OK to stay here. Perfect! This would do nicely. SPHP parked the G6. Tomorrow Loopster would explore Deadhorse. SPHP hoped the North Slope Dingo could even get permission to see the Arctic Ocean, but she probably wouldn’t.

Couldn’t hurt to try, though, could it?Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Finger Mountain on the Dalton Highway, Alaska (8-15-17)

Days 15 & 16 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

Day 15, 8-14-17 – Windy! Waves were crashing into the shore of Kluane Lake when Lupe wanted out in the wee hours of the night. She was soon back, and apparently famished. Another generous helping of Alpo, and the Carolina Dog was ready to curl up under her blankie again, still worn out from her big climb up Sheep Mountain (6,400 ft) yesterday.

Hours later, Lupe had chocolate sugar wafer cookies for breakfast as SPHP drove N on the Alaska Highway. The cookies were a big hit! In the rear view mirrors, Mount Decoeli (7,650 ft.) could be seen in clear skies far to the S. Up ahead, though, the sky was cloudy and dark.

The plan for the day was to climb a mountain Lupe had seen near the Donjek River last year. The mountain ought to have a fabulous view of a long stretch of the braided river, and snowy mountains of the St. Elias Range to the SW as well. Of course, it all depended on the weather, and SPHP was soon driving through rain showers.

The rain eventually ended. The sky cleared somewhat. A mountain came into view that looked like it might be the one Lupe hoped to climb. Although most of the sky was still cloudy, the mountain was bathed in sunshine. The upper slopes sported an unexpected dusting of new snow.

A mountain bathed in sunshine and sporting a dusting of new snow on its upper reaches came into view. At first, SPHP thought this was the mountain near the Donjek River that Lupe intended to climb. Turned out it wasn’t. Photo looks N.

The brightly lit mountain turned out not to be the one Lupe intended to climb. The Donjek River was still farther away than SPHP thought. By the time Loop was getting close to the river, she was beyond the sunny mountain and seeing wonderful white peaks off to the SW. One of these peaks, situated on the distant horizon, was a monstrous white spire that dominated everything else.

After crossing the bridge over the Donjek River, SPHP found a place to park the G6. Lupe got out for a look around. An easy stroll brought her to a bank overlooking the river. Beyond the meandering stream, Looper could see the closest of the white mountains. They gleamed white and gray beneath a mix of soft clouds and pale blue sky.

Lupe arrives at the **Donjek River** where the Alaska Highway crosses it. To the SW, she could see white peaks in sunshine beneath a mix of pale blue sky and clouds. Photo looks SW.

The forested territory between the **Donjek River** and these white peaks may be part of the **Wolverine Plateau**, but SPHP isn’t entirely certain about that. Photo looks SW.

These amazing white peaks are only the start of genuine mountaineering territory in the heart of the mighty **St. Elias Range** beyond them. Photo looks SW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Even higher peaks were seen more to the S, some completely covered with snow. They made a gorgeous backdrop for the Donjek River.

A couple of entirely white peaks soar above the front range beyond the **Donjek River**. Photo looks S.

Unfortunately, all the blue sky was way over by the white and gray mountains to the SW. Apparently, only that one big hole existed in the general layer of cloud cover seen over the rest of the sky. SPHP still thought the mountain next to the Alaska Highway that Lupe had come to climb looked possible, but the summit was hidden by fog. Hmm.

On a clear day, the views of the Donjek River and St. Elias Range from up there would be amazing! No telling what the Carolina Dog might see! SPHP pondered whether it was worth making an attempt. Conditions were marginal, if Loop really expected to see much. No point in taking on trackless wilderness and more than 3,400 feet of elevation gain, if she wouldn’t. In the end, it seemed like the wrong move. The mountain near the Donjek River really ought to be saved for a day with brilliant sunshine.

Loop and SPHP continued N. The American Dingo’s next stop came after crossing the White River. The White is even bigger than the Donjek. In fact, the Donjek River becomes a tributary of the White River somewhat farther downstream.

Lupe stops for a look at the **White Rive**r, a giant braided stream even larger than the Donjek. Photo looks NE.

The **White Rive**r has a super wide flood plain as it flows N out of the mountains. The SE end of **Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.)** is seen on the L. **Horsecamp Hill** was another peakbagging possibility that got scratched today. Photo looks NE.

N of the White River was Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.), another mountain on Lupe’s list of possible peakbagging objectives. However, the shortest approaches from the SW off the Alaska Highway looked very steep, and the whole mountain appeared heavily forested. Even if Lupe made it to the top, she might not get any bird’s eye views of the White River, the whole point of even considering an ascent. The weather was no better here than it had been at the Donjek River, either. With so many strikes against it, Horsecamp Hill was out. Oh, well! Onward!

Gray skies and occasional light rain showers extended mile after mile. No blue sky anywhere. Lupe alternately snoozed atop her pile of pillows and blankets, or stared out the window searching in vain for wildlife. She left Canada entering Alaska again. The bridge over the Tanana River came 12 miles before Tok. It wasn’t raining here, and there was a rest area. Time to get out and sniff the air for a few minutes.

Lupe takes a break from the G6 near the Alaska Highway bridge over the **Tanana River**. Photo looks SE.

Though she traveled hundreds of miles, Lupe failed to find even a speck of blue sky the rest of the day. NW of Tok, the sky was heavily overcast. Loopster may not have gotten a workout, but the windshield wipers did. It rained frequently. It wasn’t raining when the Carolina Dog pulled into Fairbanks at 5:45 PM, but looked like it could again at any moment.

Loop would spend the night in Fairbanks. Hopefully morning would bring better news.

Day 16, 8-15-17 – The only thing that was clear, was that not much had changed overnight. No rain at the moment, but the pavement was wet. Dark clouds still ruled the sky.

SPHP bought supplies and fuel for the G6. Eventually there was good news. Patches of blue sky had appeared, and were growing in the W. It was enough. Lupe and SPHP left Fairbanks.

On the drive to Livengood, the Elliot Highway was wet the entire way. Every time the road turned E or N, the weather deteriorated. Every time it turned W, conditions improved. SPHP sometimes drove into fog high on forested ridges, but always drove out of it again in the valleys below. A little past Livengood, Lupe reached the start of the Dalton Highway.

Lupe reaches the start of the Dalton Highway. The Dalton Highway goes 414 miles N to the Arctic Ocean, officially ending only a few miles short of Prudhoe Bay.

The first 40 miles or so on the Dalton Highway were all dirt and gravel. Today the road was a complete sloppy, muddy mess. SPHP drove slowly. The G6 became filthy, but kept going. Current weather conditions were gradually improving. Sunshine peeked through gaps in the clouds. Bits and pieces of blue sky managed to reach the highway.

A 12 mile stretch of pavement led to a few more miles of dirt and gravel before Loopster reached the bridge over the Yukon River at milepost 56. After crossing the bridge, she stopped for a look at the mighty Yukon.

Looking NE down the Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River. The Alaska oil pipeline crosses the river attached to the underside of this same bridge, and can be seen snaking away from the far end.

Lupe has a look at the **Yukon River**. There is a small visitor center on the N side of the river E of the Dalton Highway. Fuel is available on the W side of the highway, but it ain’t cheap at $5.50 per gallon. SPHP didn’t buy any. Don’t quibble, though, if you’re getting low! The next gas station is at Coldfoot camp 119 miles farther N.

Lupe on the N bank of the mighty **Yukon River**. She had been here in 2016, too. It was sort of amazing, almost hard to believe, that she had made it all the way back here again! Photo looks WNW.

In addition to visiting the Yukon River, Lupe went to see the Alaska oil pipeline. Although sometimes miles from the Dalton Highway, the oil pipeline roughly parallels the highway all the way to the Arctic Ocean, and is often in view.

Lupe visits the Alaska oil pipeline during her stop at the Yukon River. In 2016, Lupe learned it could be lots of fun exploring sections of the service road that follows the pipeline. Much of her gorgeous **last mile N trek** in the Brooks Range in 2016 had been along the pipeline service road. Photo looks NE.

This map showing highlights along the Dalton Highway was on display near the Yukon River visitor center.

N of the Yukon River, the Dalton Highway was dirt and gravel, which meant mud. SPHP was concerned about the first few miles. In 2016, when the weather had been sunny and much drier, there had been a mile or two of very soft highway in this area. The G6 had threatened to bog down even then. The road might easily be impassable now.

Not to worry. The road was much improved over the past year. Despite the mud, the G6 sailed through much more confidently than a year ago. Loop wasn’t going to be forced to retreat S. Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), today’s destination, was only 42 miles N of the Yukon River. Loopster was going to get there!

On the way to Finger Mountain, the weather deteriorated again. SPHP drove through intermittent rain showers. Only tiny patches of blue sky remained. A couple miles before reaching Finger Mountain, the Dalton Highway turned from mud to good pavement. That was a relief!

A rain shower was in progress when Lupe made it to Finger Mountain sometime after 3:00 PM. A strong wind blew out of the W. Low, ragged clouds raced by at a tremendous pace. Off to the NW, the summit of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was hidden from view. The S side of the Brooks Range, which ought to have been in sight, wasn’t.

Finger Mountain is only a big, rounded, gentle hill. The Dalton Highway goes right over it around milepost 98. A few stunted trees exist, but most of the mountain is covered with low bushes and small plants typical of alpine tundra. E of the highway, a granite rock outcropping juts some 20 or 30 feet above the surrounding terrain. This rock outcropping is the true summit of Finger Mountain.

Lupe had climbed Finger Mountain only a little over a year ago. For the American Dingo, it was a quick, easy peakbagging success. On a clear day, the views had been wonderful, too. Loopster had every intention of repeating this exploit. When the rain quit and wind slackened around 4:30 PM, both Lupe and SPHP left the G6 heading directly for the summit.

A short stroll, a tiny scramble, a boost from SPHP, and Lupe was there. For the second time in her life, Lupe stood at the tippy top of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.)!

Lupe needed a boost from SPHP to get to the top of **Finger Mountain**. After an absence of a little more than a year, the Carolina Dog was back!

Lupe remains perched atop **Finger Mountain** while SPHP scrambles down for a more distant shot. Photo looks N.

Kind of windy up here, SPHP! Can I come down yet? …. *No, stay where you are Looper, gimme a couple more minutes!*

The granite formation at the summit of **Finger Mountain** looks the most impressive from this direction. Pretty much the entire elevation gain coming from the Dalton Highway only 100+ yards away is on display here. Photo looks N.

With clouds obscuring some of the best views, Lupe was ready to get down out of the annoying breeze as soon as SPHP said she could. She leapt down all on her own.

A short nature trail circles the hillside immediately NE of Finger Mountain’s summit. For fun, Loop and SPHP took a leisurely stroll around the loop. Lupe wound up right back at the base of the summit rocks. This time she didn’t bother going to the top.

Lupe stands below the summit rock she had been up on top of earlier. Photo looks SSW.

With all the clouds around, the views from Finger Mountain weren’t nearly what they might have been. Lupe was going to spend the night here. Maybe they’d be better in the morning?

After having spent most of today and yesterday cooped up, Lupe wasn’t ready yet to retreat to the G6 again. Fortunately, there were a couple more things to do on Finger Mountain.

Another granite formation, not as large or high as the one at the summit, was right across the Dalton Highway on the W side of the road. With plenty of time left in the day, and not a whole lot to do with it, Lupe was all for sniffing around and exploring that rock formation, too.

The smaller granite formation on the W side of the Dalton Highway.

On a clear day, Lupe would have had a great view of **Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.)** from here. The summit is in the distance on the L, currently hidden by clouds. Photo looks WNW.

**Olsons Lake** is one of the large ponds near Center. The Dalton Highway winds off into the distance. The Alaska oil pipeline is buried underground here where the strip of bare land is seen on the L. Photo looks NNW.

Finger Mountain is named after a famous tor, Finger Rock, located roughly 0.25 to 0.50 mile SSE of the true summit where Lupe had just been. Finger Rock is said to point in the general direction of Fairbanks. Bush pilots have been rumored to use it as a navigation aide. Lupe may as well go see Finger Rock while she was here.

From the edge of a large parking area off the E side Dalton Highway, a trail led SSE into the tundra. Lupe followed it down a long gradual slope. She had a good time sniffing around exploring the tundra. The trail ultimately became hard to follow, sunken beneath standing water in many places. SPHP rock hopped part of the way to Finger Rock, which was always in view ahead.

Finger Rock wasn’t anything Lupe could get to the top of, but she did climb partway up its base.

Loop reaches famed **Finger Rock**. It reminded SPHP of an artillery piece from this angle. Photo looks ESE.

**Finger Rock** can be seen from the Dalton Highway. SPHP had spotted it on the way up Finger Mountain.

The side trek to **Finger Rock** was easy and didn’t take Lupe long. In 2016, she hadn’t visited **Finger Rock** when she came to **Finger Mountain** the first time. Lupe was glad she’d come to see it today.

After visiting Finger Rock, Lupe returned to the nature trail near the summit of Finger Mountain. Dark clouds and showers were once again approaching from the W. Lupe and SPHP fled to the protection of the G6! (5:45 PM)

Rain showers came and went. A rainbow did, too, but by then SPHP was chatting with a guy from Indiana and his two sons-in-law. Finger Mountain was a brief stop on their way N to hunt caribou near Galbraith Lake on the N side of the Brooks Range. They eventually drove on, but by then the rainbow had departed as well.

From the safety of the G6, Lupe and SPHP spent the evening watching one rain shower after another blow over Finger Mountain. Traffic on the Dalton Highway faded away long before the late arctic twilight did. If the weather would cooperate, tomorrow would be a long day. Time to rest.

Alone on Finger Mountain, less than 18 miles from the Arctic Circle, Lupe and SPHP slept.

Lupe near **Finger Rock** on **Finger Mountain**, Alaska 8-15-17

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