Northwest Territories – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

To the End of the Dempster Highway – Wright Pass to Inuvik, Northwest Territories, Canada (8-18-18 & 8-19-18)

Part 2 of Day 15 & Part 1 of Day 16 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-18-18, 3:11 PM, Dempster Highway km 465.0, boundary of the Yukon Territory & Northwest Territories – Reaching Wright Pass (3,133 ft.) was a momentous occasion! For the first time, The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood gazing E into the mysterious Northwest Territories, and saw – nothing.

Not exactly nothing, but so close to it, that it amounted to the same thing. Fog! Nothing, but fog.

Fog, wind, and a commemorative sign welcome Lupe to **Wright Pass**, on the border of the Northwest Territories.

American Dingoes are explorers and adventurers by nature. However, they prefer to be fair weather friends with the great outdoors, and this wasn’t it. The 40 mph W wind driving the cold, damp fog over Wright Pass felt frigid. Didn’t take Looper long to see all the fog she needed to see! The Northwest Territories could remain a land of mystery a bit longer. Against the gale, Lupe and SPHP retreated to the G6.

Too bad conditions weren’t better. Peak 3850, an easy climb on a decent day, was just S of Wright Pass. Better yet, Mount Sittichinli (5,164 ft.), the high point of the entire Richardson Range was only 12 km N. Neither were going to happen today, though, that much was clear.

May as well forget peakbagging. No sense in just sitting here waiting. Who knew how long the weather might stay like this? 272 km (169 miles) to Inuvik! Onward! SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe’s adventures in the Northwest Territories were underway.

3:27 PM – Loop had scarcely left Wright Pass when SPHP drove out of the fog. The Northwest Territories! There they were, right outside the window. Had to stop for this!

A magical scene greeted the Carolina Dog. Beneath an ocean of gray clouds, a pale yellow-green land, barely brightened by feeble, filtered Arctic sunlight, sloped away toward low hills and dimly perceived mountains on a horizon still obscured by fog. The impression was one of untouched remote beauty, a severe peace and solitude, and perhaps most of all, of unpredictability.

Was it going to rain? Was the sun was about to break through? Or was this contest between shadowy gloom and hopeful brilliance destined to an endless ebb and flow? Hard to say. The Northwest Territories looked like mystery and adventure, a land where anything might happen!

*So this is the Northwest Territories! Very beautiful, but it looks like rain, or maybe sunshine?* Photo looks E.

First glimpse of the **Northwest Territories** with help from the telephoto lens.

SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the Northwest Territories, then it was back on the road again. The Dempster Highway wound NE, at first out onto open territory, but then back into the mountains again for a while. From a peakbagging standpoint, what could be seen from the highway was encouraging. The Richardson Mountains were not rugged. On a clear day, the Carolina Dog ought to be able to climb almost any peak she wanted to attempt.

The road itself was a bit of a surprise. The Dempster Highway had been firm, but rough back in the Yukon. Here in the Northwest Territories, the highway looked virtually brand new. Wide and smooth, and covered with plenty of gravel. If anything, the Dempster Highway was almost too soft, especially near the shoulders. With little traffic to worry about, SPHP simply drove near the middle.

After a descent from Wright Pass, the Dempster Highway winds through open territory. Surprisingly, the road was in great shape here in the Northwest Territories. Much better than it had been back in the Yukon! Photo looks NE.

Back in the **Richardson Mountains** again.

4:17 PM – Even before the highway left the Richardson Mountains for good, there had been signs the cloud cover might be beginning to break up. A few miles beyond the mountains out in open territory again, Lupe basked in sunshine for the first time in 2 days near a small lake.

Was this Midway Lake? Didn’t seem to be. The little lake was a pretty spot, but not very big. No signs or facilities, either.

After leaving the Richardson Mountains, Lupe basks in sunshine near a small lake.

The road was drier and firmer here. Must not have rained nearly so much as back in the Yukon.

4:40 PM – A few km past the small lake, Lupe did see Midway Lake S of the highway. Midway Lake was considerably larger, but SPHP hadn’t stopped for it. From up on a ridge a few km farther on, the terrain sloped gradually down to forested lowlands to the E. Somewhere out there was the Peel River, formed by the union of the Blackstone and Ogilvie Rivers, which Lupe had already come to back in the Yukon.

Lupe enjoys an outing on a ridge a few km E of Midway Lake. Photo looks NE.

Beyond the ridge, the highway lost elevation. The road finally made a sharp curve to the R (SE), and went down an escarpment marking the edge of the Peel River floodplain. Once down, the highway curved back to the L (E), and passed between a couple of lakes.

The American Dingo was ready for another sniff, so SPHP parked along the highway. Together Loop and SPHP took a quick stroll back to see the lakes. Both lakes were larger than the sunny one Lupe had stopped at a little while ago. Exactly how big they were was impossible to tell. Thick forest lining the shorelines hid at least part of each lake from view.

Satisfied with her inspection, Lupe returned to the G6.

Loop by a lake in the Peel River floodplain. Photo looks N.

5:24 PM, NWT km 74, Peel River – A couple of vehicles had gone by as Looper made her exploratory trek back along the highway to see the lakes. Upon returning to the G6, it turned out that the Peel River was just ahead. The only way across the river is aboard the MV Abraham Francis ferry, a free service. Both of the vehicles that had gone by were already aboard.

The ferry was about to leave, but SPHP was instantly waved forward. The ruts in the bank of the Peel River were so deep that the G6 scraped bottom. No damage was done, and the G6 managed to make it up the boarding ramp to barely squeeze in behind the other vehicles. Lupe was aboard the MV Abraham Francis!

Before she even realized what was happening, the Carolina Dog was crossing the Peel River! The whole process took only a minute or two. The ferry ride was so smooth, that only by looking out at the scenery was it possible to tell that the ferry was moving at all.

Approaching the MV Abraham Francis ferry at the **Peel River**.

Crossing the Peel River aboard the MV Abraham Francis. The ferry ride was free!

Once disembarked on the far shore, SPHP parked the G6 so Lupe could go check out the Peel River. As wide as the river was, it was amazing how quickly the ferry had crossed it.

The MV Abraham Francis ferry and **Peel** **River** from the E bank.

2 km E of the Peel River, Lupe had a good time sniffing during a stop for water at the Nitainlaii Territorial Park campground. At NWT km 86, a drive-through tour of Fort McPherson made less of an impression on her. The drive continued as the Dempster Highway headed E through lowlands that the map showed were full of lakes and swamps. However, Lupe saw little except forest until she reached the Mackenzie River.

7:22 PM, 56°F, NWT km 142, Mackenzie River – The Mackenzie River was enormous, even larger than the Peel River! Not really a surprise. The Mackenzie drains nearly 20% of Canada, and is the largest river in North America that flows into the Arctic Ocean.

The Dempster Highway reaches the Mackenzie River just downstream of its confluence with the Arctic Red River. Approaching the Mackenzie, Lupe could see a short section of the Arctic Red. On a bluff overlooking the Arctic Red River, the village of Tsiigehtchic was in sight.

Approaching the Mackenzie River. The Arctic Red River, is on the R. On the bluff above the Arctic Red River is the village of Tsiigehtchic. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was in for another free ferry ride! The MV Louis Cardinal ferry serves 3 points on the Mackenzie river – the Dempster Highway on both sides of the river, and the village of Tsiigehtchic. Without the ferry, the village would be completely isolated from the Dempster, or any other highway system.

This time, there was a bit of a wait for the MV Louis Cardinal to arrive. Loopster took this opportunity to escape the G6 for a closer look at the magnificent Mackenzie River.

Don’t drive straight into the Mackenzie River! Stop and wait for the ferry.

Loopster by the **Mackenzie River**. The ferry is on the way! Photo looks N.

Looking upstream. The Arctic Red River joins in from the R. Photo looks NE.

Lupe’s free ride across the **Mackenzie River** arrives.

Crossing the Mackenzie River aboard the MV Louis Cardinal was another fun, incredibly smooth ride. The trip across the giant Mackenzie took a little longer than at the Peel River, but was still soon over.

The Dempster Highway now headed N. E of the Mackenzie River, Lupe was in a region of flat, featureless wetlands. Forests of Black Spruce and Tamarack lined the highway for miles, generally concealing ponds and lakes from view. Intermittent light rain fell.

The Dempster Highway parallels the unseen Mackenzie River through a featureless region of forests and wetlands. Photo looks N.

8:40 PM, 52°F, NWT km 178, Rengling River – The only significant change in scenery came at the Rengling River valley. The Rengling River was so pretty, and so different from the rest of this region, that SPHP stopped to let Lupe out of the G6 for a few minutes.

The **Rengling River** was the scenic highlight of the area E of the Mackenzie River. Photo looks E.

After crossing the bridge over the Rengling River, the Dempster Highway climbed right back out of the river valley. Lupe’s journey N on the dull flatlands resumed.

9:20 PM, 52°F, NWT km 207(?) – Since leaving the Arctic Circle, there had been no rest areas along the Dempster Highway. Other than infrequent villages, campgrounds, and highway maintenance areas, rare pullouts and occasional unmarked side roads been about the only places to get off the highway.

It was getting late. When SPHP spotted a wide parking pad tucked into the forest on the W side of the highway, that was it! Lupe could stay there for the night. Still enough daylight to take a nice little walk, too.

From the end of the parking pad, an overgrown abandoned road led into the forest. Lupe was quite happy exploring it, but didn’t get far. Swarms of mosquitoes put an end to her parking pad forest adventure, as SPHP insisted upon retreating to the G6 for the night.

8-19-18, 7:50 AM, NWT km 207(?) – Daylight in the swamps! Yeah, well, the Carolina Dog could just forget about any mosquito-infested stroll this morning. Her overnight parking pad was quickly abandoned. Back on the road N again! However, since Loop had been cooped up in the G6 most of the last day and a half, SPHP kept an eye out for an opportunity to let her burn off some energy.

Lupe at her overnight parking pad. The abandoned Mosquito Trail disappears into the greenery beyond her.

8:25 AM, NWT km 232, Tithegeh Chii Vitaii overlook, Gwich’in Territorial Park – Happily, an opportunity came sooner rather than later. At the top of a rise, a parking area appeared on the L (W) side of the highway. A sign said this was the Tithegeh Chii Vitaii territorial viewpoint.

*Hmm. What’s so special about these bushes?*

There was nothing to be seen from right along the highway, but a real trail, not a fake mosquito one, disappeared into the bush. Information posted at the trailhead indicated that the trail was supposed to lead to a view of Campbell Lake from bluffs several hundred feet above it.

Lupe was all for exploring the trail, and it didn’t sound like a bad idea to SPHP, either. Why not? Looper needed to get out and do something.

*A trail! Come on! Let’s go see Campbell Lake.*

Lupe had scarcely begun when she came to a junction. A map posted back at the trailhead had shown that the fork to the R was a shorter spur trail, presumably to a nearby viewpoint. The fork to the L would lead to a longer loop overlooking Campbell Lake.

Since long was what the American Dingo wanted, she went L. With a name like Loopster, she was going to do the whole loop.

The trail had barely begun when Lupe came to this fork. She went L taking the longer loop trail. The trail to the R is a shorter out and back spur.

The trail made a gradual descent, crossing a boardwalk over a marshy spot. Within 5 minutes, Lupe reached a second fork. Again she went L, taking the long way to Campbell Lake, though it hardly mattered which way she went, since this was where the loop trail began.

A long boardwalk led up a hillside.

Crossing a marshy spot after the first trail junction.

Lupe again went L at this second fork 5 minutes from the trailhead.

Sometimes on boardwalks over wet spots, or stairs on steeper terrain, but most often just on the ground, the trail led through a boreal forest. Loopster came to a line of cliffs, perhaps overlooking an ancient river channel, for another parallel set of cliffs was nearby. There wasn’t much to see yet, although at one point Lupe caught a glimpse of the Dempster Highway back to the E beyond a lake.

The trail led to a line of low cliffs, perhaps overlooking an ancient river channel.

At a thinly forested opening, the Dempster Highway could be seen again beyond a lake. Photo Looks SE.

The trail went SW for a while, but eventually turned W. Lupe mostly gained elevation at an easy pace. When the trail began to level out, she started getting some views. The Carolina Dog had made it to a line of bluffs overlooking the far S end of Campbell Lake.

Even farther S was another big bluff, a continuation of the line of cliffs Lupe was already on top of. To the W was a gray and green patchwork of low islands, swamps, and open water.

This view was intriguing. On the Dempster Highway, Lupe had been traveling through lowlands which looked very much like this on maps, but all she had seen from the G6 was forest. These bluffs enabled her to actually see the pattern of wetlands from a bird’s-eye view.

Still climbing, the trail turns W ascending to a line of bluffs overlooking Campbell Lake. Photo looks W.

As the trail starts leveling out, Lupe gets a first glimpse of wetlands at the S end of Campbell Lake. Photo looks WSW.

A bird’s-eye view of wetlands at the **S end of Campbell Lake**. Photo looks W.

Looking NW toward the main body of **Campbell Lake**.

The trail turned N. By now it had deteriorated to the point where it was braided and much harder to follow, but the American Dingo could tell where it was going. For a while, she continued to gain elevation as she followed the line of cliffs. The farther N she went, the more she could see of Campbell Lake.

**Wetlands S of Campbell Lake** from another high point.

A cairn sits atop a boulder marking the nearly non-existent trail in this area.

The best view of Campbell Lake wasn’t from the highest point, but at the far N end. From across the lake, a cool, humid W breeze swept over this viewpoint. The sky was uniformly gray. Campbell Lake stretched away to the N beyond vision.

At the N end of the bluffs where the view of **Campbell Lake** was best. Photo looks N.

And that was about it. From here, a long stairway led down to a valley. At the base of the stairs, a much shorter section of trail than the way Lupe had come led back to the highway.

*Well. that’s about it! We’ll complete the loop taking the short way back now.*

Even at a leisurely pace, the whole trek to see Campbell Lake had taken only a little over an hour. 3 km farther along the Dempster Highway (NWT km 235.0) SPHP spotted an entrance to the Gwich’in Territorial Park campground. A short drive through the campground, which was open, but seemingly deserted, led to an access point along the E shore.

Having seen Campbell Lake from on high, Lupe went down to a plastic floating dock to experience the lake up close.

**Campbell Lake** from the dock at the Gwich’in Territorial campground. Photo looks N.

August, yet not a soul was around. No boats on the lake. No activity at all. Small waves rocked the dock only a little. A landlubber at heart, the Carolina Dog abandoned the dock to sniff along the shore.

11:05 AM, NWT km 266.0 at Jak Park – Satisfied with her tour of Campbell Lake, Lupe returned to the Dempster Highway. Her next stop was at Jak Territorial Park where a 10 meter high lookout tower provides views of the Mackenzie River delta and Richardson Mountains.

Unfortunately, although the campground was open, the lookout tower was not. It had fallen into disrepair. Although the tower looked sturdy enough, access was blocked.

Lupe arrives at the 10 meter high lookout tower at Jak Park.

11:25 AM, NWT km 272.0, Inuvik – At Jak Territorial Park the end was near. 6 km farther, the American Dingo reached the official end of the Dempster Highway. She was 737 km from where the Dempster had started E of Dawson City in the Yukon Territory.

Naturally, a quick stop was mandatory at the commemorative sign on the outskirts of Inuvik. After that, Lupe would be free to explore Inuvik, the only town (population ~ 3,500) amounting to more than a tiny village along the entire Dempster Highway.

737 km from its start E of Dawson City in the Yukon Territory, Lupe reaches the end of the Dempster Highway in **Inuvik, Northwest Territories**.

This sign is on the R side of the Dempster Highway coming into Inuvik. Can’t miss it!

In Inuvik, signs listed a number of attractions, including the Western Arctic Visitor Center, the Inuvik Community Greenhouse, Ingamo Hall, a golf course, a campground and more.

Most of these attractions weren’t going to be Dingo friendly. Lupe settled on Our Lady of Victory Parish, also known as the Igloo Church, as what she most wanted to see while in Inuvik. Loopster couldn’t go in, but she could at least sit on the steps outside. The igloo-shaped exterior was what made the church famous in the first place, anyway.

A year ago, Inuvik, at end of the Dempster Highway, would have been it. No way to go farther N except by boat, plane, or the winter ice road on the frozen Mackenzie River. However, in November, 2017, a brand new all-season highway from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk had opened up! In 2018, for the first time ever, it was possible to drive N all the way to Tuk from Inuvik in the summer.

The G6 guzzled expensive gas ($1.77 CAN/liter) at the North Wind gas station, and then, at 12:25 PM (55°F), the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood left Inuvik heading N on the new all-season highway.

140 km (87 miles) to Tuktoyaktuk, land of the Pingos, and the Arctic Ocean!

On the new all-season road to Tuktoyaktuk and the Arctic Ocean!

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide

Northwest Territories Ferry Information

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On the Dempster Highway to Eagle Plains, the Arctic Circle & Northwest Territories, Canada (8-17-18 & 8-18-18)

Part 2 of Day 14 & Part 1 of Day 15 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

8-17-18, 1:20 PM, 53°F, km 224.5 – From Churchward Hill (2,871 ft.), Lupe had seen that, on the way to the Eagle Plain plateau, the Dempster Highway went N closely paralleling the Ogilvie River. However, out on the heavily forested floodplain beyond the last of the Ogilvie Mountains, the river was seldom in sight.

Approaching the Eagle Plain plateau, the highway curved NE and soon began an impressive climb up Seven Mile Hill. The Ogilvie River was now being left behind, but from the edge of the giant escarpment, Lupe could see it again off to the SE. Somewhere beyond vision E of here, the Ogilvie would join forces with the Blackstone to form the Peel River.

At km 259.0, the Dempster Highway reached its high point along the SE edge of the Eagle Plain escarpment 1,000 feet above the valley. A huge pullout was here, plus the added convenience of an outhouse. Lupe had reached Ogilvie Ridge.

Ogilvie Ridge was a popular spot. As many as 6 or 7 vehicles were present at any given time. The day was still heavily overcast, and the cold S wind still blew. People came and went quickly. In no rush to get back out into the wind, Lupe and SPHP waited. More than 20 minutes went by, before a moment arrived when no one else was around.

Lupe and SPHP left the G6 to experience the gray, wind-swept solitude of Ogilvie Ridge.

At **Ogilvie Ridge**, km 259.0 of the Dempster Highway.

The Ogilvie River valley stretched from the S to the E. Beyond the broad, green valley, rose distant gray peaks of the Taiga Range. Churchward Hill had provided far superior views of the Ogilvie River, but for being right along the highway, Ogilvie Ridge wasn’t a bad vantage point at all.

The **Ogilvie River valley** from **Ogilvie Ridge**. Photo looks SE.

Lupe sniffed around in the bushes, while SPHP perused several colorful displays about the geological history of the region.

2:58 PM, 47°F – Continuing N from Ogilvie Ridge, the Dempster Highway kept climbing. The road wound around on big hills and ridges. This first part of the Eagle Plain plateau didn’t seem much like a plateau at all. Deep valleys flanked barren hills, but the hills were rounded, not flat.

3:22 PM – Shortly after passing what seemed to be the highway’s highest point in this region, a small pullout appeared. The long climb out of the Ogilvie River valley was over. Lupe stopped for a quick sniff. The Taiga Range of the Ogilvie Mountains could still be seen back to the SE. Ahead, the Dempster Highway kept winding N along a series of lower hills.

Probably wouldn’t have been too hard to take a stroll up to the top of the hill the pullout was on, but Loopster didn’t do it. Having already made it up Churchward Hill this morning, traveling in the comfort of the G6 on a windy, gray afternoon had its charms.

The now distant **Taiga Range** of the **Ogilvie Mountains** from near the high point of the Dempster Highway at the S end of the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks SE.

The Dempster Highway winds away across the **Eagle Plain plateau**. Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP kept going. The highway wound crazily around in what felt like a desperate attempt to stay up on a strip of hilly high ground. Up and down, this way and that, on and on!

Mountains faded away. Hills and ridges shrank. Often only the highway could be seen. Broad swaths of the spindly, Dr. Seuss trees of the boreal forest were clear cut away from both sides of the road. In their place, bushes thrived.

Despite the overcast sky, the road had been dry, or nearly so, ever since Churchward Hill. At km 335, though, suddenly the Dempster Highway was wet. Within minutes, SPHP drove into rain. The highway became slick and rough. Potholes were brimming with water.

There was supposed to be a viewpoint at km 347.0 where the Richardson Mountains could be seen for the first time. SPHP missed it, but did stop at a wet pullout that appeared a little farther on. Lupe got out for a look around, but no mountains were in sight. A vast, rolling plain stretched away into the fog.

5:38 PM, 44°F, Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, km 369.0 – It hadn’t been much farther to the first and only fuel available in the entire 369 km (229 miles) since way back at the start of the Dempster Highway. The Eagle Plains Hotel & Service Center, situated on a hill, probably offers fine views on a clear day, but Lupe arrived amid rain and fog.

With no clue as to how far it might be to the next gas station, a fuel stop was an absolute necessity. Eagle Plains was a full service station. Before SPHP could pump any gas, a relatively young man appeared. That was his job. Fill’er up?

Yes, please!

Asking was a mere formality. The attendant already knew the answer. When it’s 229 miles between opportunities, does anyone skimp? Way up here in the Yukon, it’s a helluva walk back to civilization. Conceivable that stroll might get a mite chilly, too, any time of year.

SPHP didn’t bother asking the price. Whatever it was, one just paid it, and felt fortunate to have the opportunity to do so. The receipt would reveal what a fabulous bargain SPHP had just made.

31.52 liters at $1.65 Canadian per liter came to $52.00 Canadian. That was the same as $39.80 US for 8.328 gallons, or $4.78 US per gallon at the current exchange rate.

Eh, not much worse than going to California, Looper!

Loop spotted a muster point nearby. Was that a requirement? SPHP didn’t know. No one else was mustering, but the American Dingo put in an appearance, just in case.

Nothing happened, though. Nobody came to muster with her, or even say what all the mustering was supposed to be about. Maybe it had been a long summer? Perhaps the local Canadians were sick and tired of mustering on these endless, blistering hot August days?

Loop mustering on yet another baking hot **Eagle Plains** summer day.

However, Loop didn’t get totally ignored in Eagle Plains. A doorman, snappily dressed all in black, came prancing jauntily over from the Eagle Plains Hotel. When he didn’t welcome the Carolina Dog to Eagle Plains, but instead leapt right up onto the G6, and started demanding rewards merely for the privilege of parking in the muddy parking lot, Lupe was pretty put out. The were-puppy appeared and barked ferociously at him. Of all the nerve!

Since Eagle Plains was the only civilized spot for such a long distance, SPHP felt that even if the doorman’s demands were outrageous, perhaps it was best to at least toss him a few raisins and cashews. The doorman was evidently satisfied. He eventually flew off, defusing the whole Dingo/doorman confrontation.

Dressed all in black, the Eagle Plains doorman comes over from the hotel to demand payment for the privilege of parking in the parking lot.

Pretty cheeky to hop right up on a G6 defended by a ferocious were-puppy, but it paid off! SPHP gave in, and bought him off with raisins and cashews.

The Dempster Highway crosses the Eagle River 9 km N of Eagle Plains. Despite its soaring name, the river wasn’t particularly inspiring. Murky brown water in what amounted to a big ditch. Since it was raining, the Eagle River hardly seemed worth stopping for. SPHP paused on the bridge, but only long enough for Lupe to get a look from the G6.

The **Eagle River** was more of a ditch full of muddy water than a scenic highlight.

6:35 PM, 44°F, km 405.5 – Other than the commemorative sign, there wasn’t much more to see here than at the Eagle River. Nevertheless, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! Lupe had reached the Arctic Circle again for the first time in nearly a year. It was a glorious moment! A moment destined to be prolonged.

The Arctic Circle featured a huge parking area with two entrances off the Dalton Highway. Two man-made attractions sat along the border of the muddy lot – the commemorative sign, and an outhouse. Of course, the big attraction was the invisible one, the unseen Arctic Circle itself. This was the edge of the true Arctic! Everything to the N was part of the fabled frozen land of the Midnight Sun.

Midnight Sun? The Carolina Dog hadn’t seen the sun all day. Rain, wind, fog! Beneath a leaden sky, it was darker and seemed later than it really was. Who knew what lay ahead? The highway had been greasy slick coming up out of the Eagle River valley. Rough and full of potholes after that. Maybe this was far enough? Maybe Loop ought to spend the night right here at the Arctic Circle?

As the evening wore on, dense fog turned the world a featureless gray. The rain increased in intensity. Traffic ceased. The windows fogged over. Dinner. A warm blankie. To the steady beat of rain on the roof, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood settled in for a snooze.

One of the displays – the most interesting one with a map.

At the start of the Land of the Midnight Sun.

Home for the night. The G6 did get moved farther from the sign, in case anyone else happened by.

8-18-18, 4:17 AM, km 405.5, the Arctic Circle – Light out, kind of. Still raining, still foggy. The growing light did nothing to dispel the gloom. Every time SPHP had woken up, it had been raining, not lightly, but steady. How much had fallen in the past 10 hours? Half an inch an hour, easy. Maybe double that. A regular monsoon!

What was the Dempster going to be like? A sea of mud? Maybe the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood wasn’t going any farther? Maybe she was stuck here, unable even to retreat? The poor G6 wasn’t exactly a Jeep, even if SPHP treated it like one.

Nothing to do about it now, though, except sit tight. The G6 wasn’t going anywhere. Not until SPHP saw similar vehicles out on the Dempster. Better safe here than sunk to the axles somewhere in the literal middle of nowhere.

5:54 AM – Brighter out, still socked in with fog, but the rain had finally let up. Only a light mist now. A few other vehicles had spent the night here. None had budged yet. Not a hint of activity. Certainly none on the highway. Lupe needed out. She made a quick tour of the area. From close to the commemorative sign, a couple of picnic tables sat in a flat area down an embankment. Bet those get a lot of use!

The rain started in again. Back to the G6! May as well snooze some more. “Well-rested” was the predicted future state of things.

The new day bore an uncanny resemblance to the old.

The Arctic Circle picnic area was deserted. SPHP suspected this was its natural state.

9:45 AM – Rain, rain, rain! Wind, too. It hadn’t rained all the time, but did more often than not. A flurry of activity had occurred around 9:00 AM, though. Two big white pick-up trucks started it off, charging by out on the Dempster Highway around 8:40 AM. A green van then appeared out of the N sending up a gigantic spray as it encountered long chains of pothole lakes upon the road.

Other vehicles came and went. People pulled in to use the rest room, or take a look at the commemorative sign. None of their vehicles, however, were as small and pathetic as the intrepid G6. The wait continued.

*You know, SPHP, if you’ve got such a thing for invisible circles, maybe we could try the Tropic of Cancer next time around?*

11:28 AM, 44°F – Alright! Still rainy, still foggy, but it must be OK out there. After a lull, a parade of vehicles had come by. Most were huge pickups, or other massive high-clearance 4WD’s of one sort or another. However, a number of sport utility vehicles, a small tour bus, and even a motor home had been by, too. And just lately, a couple of passenger cars and two motorcycles.

A guy came along on a bicycle, and disappeared over the embankment down toward the picnic tables. That was it! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way. Going N, too, not S!

It was slow going, but the Dempster Highway wasn’t nearly as muddy as SPHP had feared, as long as one stayed away from the shoulders. The road was rough, though, and full of potholes, each an abyss of unknown depth. The G6 crept along enduring one jarring jolt and drenching spray of dirty water after another, but Lupe was on move again.

There were places where the road was much smoother, pothole free, but they didn’t last long. Amazingly, only 10 minutes from the Arctic Circle, SPHP drove out of the rain. The windshield wipers had to be kept on to sweep away the filthy water still spraying up from the road. However, the fog had lifted a little, and it was possible to see.

Hills were ahead. Lupe was getting closer to the Richardson Mountains. The land was changing. What could be seen below the cloud cover was increasingly beautiful.

Loop out on a nice smooth stretch of highway after SPHP drove out of the rain.

**Foothills of the Richardson Mountains** are ahead. The highway stayed W of them.

The land became more beautiful as Lupe continued N.

12:38 PM, km 445.8 at the Rock River campground – After following a rip-roaring creek down to a low forested area, Lupe reached the Rock River campground at a bend in the Dempster Highway. As SPHP read the map, the campground was not actually on the Rock River, but on White Fox Creek, a major tributary.

It had taken an hour to drive 40 km (25 miles) to get here from the Arctic Circle. The campground, though open, was deserted. Time for lunch, and this appeared to be a great spot for a break from the rough ride N. While SPHP prepared a meal, Loopster made a thrilling discovery. This Arctic forest was full of squirrels!

So, Rock River campground became an instant hit. After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the entire campground loop. Like all the other streams that had been seen from the highway on the drive here, White Fox Creek was full bank to bank, practically at flood stage.

Lupe was more interested in sniffing eagerly from one promising tree to the next. To her everlasting delight, she frequently found a bundle of joy chattering away high above her. For a deserted campground, between the American Dingo and the squirrels, Rock River was a noisy place.

Relaxing at Rock River campground shortly before striking it rich with squirrels.

**White Fox Creek** was running high, full bank to bank.

2:19 PM, 48°F – No doubt the Carolina Dog would have preferred to stay at the Rock River campground a while longer to stake her claim in the great 2018 Yukon Squirrel Rush. And perhaps that would have been the better choice, but Lupe’s journey N continued.

Even before reaching the Rock River campground, the highway had been heading N along the W flank of the Richardson Mountains. Sadly, the mountains were completely lost in the clouds. Loopster had already gone by Mount Hare (4,070 ft.) without even seeing it.

Climbing out of the White Fox Creek valley, the Dempster Highway came to a high, rolling prairie. Large hills and ridges were to the NW, the still unseen Richardson Mountains to the E. This was a gorgeous area!

N of the Rock Creek campground, the Dempster Highway led to a gorgeous rolling prairie with big hills and ridges to the NW. Photo looks NNW.

The Richardson Mountains lie hidden to the R (E) of the highway. Photo looks NE.

Lupe had a few peakbagging candidates in the Richardson Mountains along in here, but none were worth an attempt given the weather. No point in putting out any big effort just to see nothing, and risk getting lost in the fog. Maybe the weather would be better on the return trip? Lupe could do her peakbagging then, SPHP reasoned.

A typical stretch of the Dempster Highway W of the Richardson Mountains.

Onward! The Dempster Highway started curving NE and climbing. Up, up! Views of the beautiful highlands became more spectacular, faded to gray, then vanished. The road wound ever higher past hillsides torn up during recent road construction. The highway leveled out. A parking lot appeared on the S side of the road. SPHP stopped.

3:11 PM, km 465.0 – Outside the G6, dense fog raced by driven onward by a 40 mph gale roaring out of the W. An uninviting, unforgiving world. This was it! Wright Pass (3,133 ft.), end of the Yukon Territory!

Incredibly, E of Wright Pass was an even more remote and mysterious land. A land neither Lupe nor SPHP had ever seen, or even been close to, before. Abandoning the G6, buffeted by the chill wind, together Loop and SPHP walked to the edge of the unknown to experience, for the first time, the Northwest Territories.

When she got there, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood couldn’t see a thing.

At **Wright Pass**, border of the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories, Canada 8-18-18

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Dempster Highway Travelogue Guide