Day 20 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!
8:45 AM, Dempster Highway, 2.5 miles from Wright Pass in the Northwest Territories –
Are you OK?
Dead to the world, the American Dingo was still snoozing, and SPHP was barely conscious. Someone in a white pickup truck was talking. Better say something.
Yeah, we’re fine.
You’re sure? Saw your vehicle sitting empty here the last couple of days, and wondered what the deal was?
Oh, I was just out hiking in the mountains with my dog. Everything’s fine! No problems. Thanks for asking.
The man in the white truck drove off. Lupe yawned.
What’s going on, SPHP?
Someone checking on us to make sure we weren’t in trouble, Loopster. Need to sniff the air for a few minutes?
Don’t mind if I do, SPHP.
Getting out of the RAV4, as usual, the air was thick with smoke, or so it seemed. Yet there was a little dew on the RAV4, and during a stroll with virtually no visibility at all to the top of a nearby rise, SPHP felt a barely detectable mist.
Loop, are we in smoke or fog? How does it sniff?
The ground is damp, SPHP. Doesn’t smell much like smoke, either.
Huh. After all these weeks of smoke-filled air, was the Arctic apocalypse finally ending? That would be big news. Returning to the RAV4, Lupe resumed her beauty rest, while SPHP worked on the trip journal.
1:30 PM, Dempster Highway, same spot – All morning long, the fog had gradually lifted. As SPHP heated up a can of chili for lunch, the air really began to clear, revealing a gorgeous blue sky with a few clouds and only a hint of smoke. Unspoiled Arctic wilderness stretched toward distant ridges and mountains.
Wow! Clearest day in ages, Looper! How are you feeling?
Like we ought to do something after lunch, SPHP. No sense in letting a day like this slip away!
I know, but it’s already too late to set out for Peak 1402M, Loop.
Peak 1402M! We were just there a couple of days ago, SPHP. Went right by it again only yesterday.
Oh, not that Peak 1402M, Loopster. I’m talking about another one farther NE that’s on your list of possibilities.
What about that mountain right across the highway, SPHP? The one N of Wright Pass.
Don’t even have it on your list of possibilities, Loopster, but it sure looks doable. Let’s have lunch, then I’ll get the pack ready. We’ll see what the situation is then.
3:15 PM, same spot – At the very same pullout from which the Carolina Dog had departed on her epic backpacking trip to Mount Sittichinli and back only 2 days ago, Lupe stood grinning with a lovely clear view of North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.) beyond her.
I say it’s a go, SPHP. What do you think? Say, yes! I want to try it!
Time’s flying, Looper. I’ve been puttering around here long enough. We better get cracking! Hop into the RAV4. We’ll drive up to Wright Pass and start from there.
3:31 PM, 55ºF, Wright Pass, Yukon/Northwest Territories border – Lupe leapt out of the RAV4. The air was still smoky W of the pass, especially toward the NW, but the pass itself and everything E was clear. Directly S, the American Dingo had a great view of Peak 3850, which she had climbed on a smoky evening only 3 days ago.
Woo-hoo! Too bad it wasn’t this clear when we climbed Peak 3850, SPHP.
Or better yet, at Mount Sittichinli yesterday morning, Looper. The smoke off to the W is a bit worrisome, but we’re still all in on North Wright Pass Mountain, aren’t we?
Of course! Grab your pack, SPHP, and let’s go!
After a quick look at North Wright Pass Mountain from over by the now displayless Northwest Territories display, and totally exotic road signs mentioning Inuvik, Tuktoyaktuk, and the Arctic Ocean, Lupe headed SW along the Dempster Highway to the Yukon sign near a side road.
The side road led to a microwave tower at the S end of the mountain.
Can we take the road, SPHP?
No sense in making this any harder than it has to be, Loopster. Onward! Puppy, ho!
The side road was short. Within minutes, Lupe was already closing in on the tower.
From back at the highway, the SE end of the mountain had appeared to offer the best initial approach.
We need to be on the other side of the tower, Loop. Just go around it.
Once E of the tower, the territory ahead sloped gradually down to the E. Angling NE closer to the base of the mountain, Lupe maintained, or even gained some elevation. In scarcely any time at all, the view of Peak 3850 on the opposite side of Wright Pass was already pretty impressive.
SPHP had seen a gap at the lower SE end of North Wright Pass Mountain that looked like it granted access to a valley leading to terrain higher up that wasn’t as rocky as the rest of the mountain. However, that gap was proving to be farther E than SPHP thought.
Even the modest amount of elevation the Carolina Dog had gained so far was putting her into more and more talus. Soon she was amid so much rock that simply scrambling directly N up the steep talus slope seemed the best solution.
As often happens, this initial scramble was bigger than it first looked. Nevertheless, Lupe was full of enthusiasm as she scrambled up. When she managed to reach the top of the steepest part, the valley SPHP had originally hoped to lead her to was now an obstacle. A significant drop would now be involved to get past it over to the wide bench of tundra farther N that the valley connected with.
Moderately steep slopes farther W comprised mostly of talus, but with some tundra mixed in, were the only other option.
Guess we’ve got to keep climbing, Loop. Let me catch my breath, first.
Great views already, SPHP! What’s the name of that big mountain off to the NE? Looks like another fun one we can climb someday.
Yeah, that’s a spiffy peak, alright, Looper. Believe that’s Peak 4437.
Since SPHP’s navigation error had already blown what had appeared to be the easiest route, climbing NW along the ridge Lupe was already on seemed to be the next best option.
There was an awful lot of rock, but patches and lanes of tundra helped. In some places, quite a bit of tundra was present, making progress easy. Other stretches were pure rock hop. Although not as steep as the initial scramble, Lupe was still gaining elevation at a good clip. Yet, despite gaining hundreds of feet of elevation, the American Dingo kept coming to false summits.
This first long climb finally ended when Lupe reached the rocky E edge of a vast, almost level plain of tundra. The huge tundra bench that she could have been following had SPHP not messed up the route was now visible below her to the NNE. However, the mistake no longer seemed like a big deal. Lupe could easily follow the even larger bench she was already on toward an enormous dark mound of talus that was ahead.
As Lupe got closer to this next mound of talus, it looked like the easiest way up would be toward the W. Attempting to head straight across the vast tundra plain quickly revealed that much of it was surprisingly wet. Not a problem for the Carolina Dog, but SPHP didn’t want to get wet feet.
Heading N along the edge of the rocks where the tundra was drier was a better choice. Lupe didn’t angle WNW until she got close to the base of the talus mound where she could continue using the same technique.
Once Lupe got far enough W, she turned N again, starting up the mound. Still lots of rock, but some tundra, too, and this route wasn’t nearly as steep as a frontal assault would have been.
Pausing partway up for one of SPHP’s breathers, the view back to the S was incredible. Much of the vast tundra plain Lupe had just skirted the E and N edges of was in sight, with Peak 3850 beyond it, which didn’t look any higher than where Lupe was now.
Even more amazing, the N/S running chain of mountains that both Peak 3850 and North Wright Pass Mountain were part of was clearly seen to be the dividing line between a smoke-filled Yukon to the W, and nearly smoke-free Northwest Territories to the E.
Approaching the top of the enormous talus mound, a long lane of tundra ended at another unavoidable stretch of talus. When the inevitable rock hop started leveling out, another vast, flat region was ahead. Beyond it, what appeared to be the last significant climb to the summit region was in sight.
Exactly where the best route across this next bench might be was hard to say. Continuing N, the rock hop went on for a while before leading to another plain of tundra. Although very large, this one wasn’t quite as big as the first one had been. While there were still wet spots and damp regions, it soon became apparent that most of the tundra was drier here.
I guess we can just stick with the tundra as much as possible, Loopster.
Whatever you prefer, SPHP. Makes no difference to me.
Crossing this second plain, Lupe accidentally scared up 6 ptarmigans. A nice waterhole provided her with a drink.
This second plain led to another steep talus rise at its N end. It wasn’t as big as the mound separating the first two benches, but still a significant climb. Above it, Lupe encountered a third large bench, most of which was rockier and even drier.
Yet another steep talus slope was in sight at the end of this third bench. It was clearly much steeper toward the E, and easier to the W, where two trails, presumably made by caribou, were visible. The trail farthest W looked the most distinct and longest, so Lupe headed for it.
A rocky start got the American Dingo to the caribou trail, which wasn’t really all that steep. Lupe followed this trail a long way on relatively gentle slopes, eventually reaching a continuous lane of tundra that she kept following higher.
Upon reaching a region of more tundra and less rock, the trail faded completely away. Glancing back to the S, Lupe now had a spectacular view of the 3 benches she’d already crossed far below.
The slope eventually leveled out again. Across another plain, a smaller talus rise was ahead. Lupe climbed it, too, heading NNE as she entered a world of talus almost completely devoid of vegetation.
Can’t be too much farther now, Looper. We’re entering the summit region.
It’s enormous too, SPHP! Look at how much farther it keeps going!
I know, but we’ll get there, Loop. Might be world champion rock hoppers by then, but we’ll get there.
Whatever you do, don’t twist your ankle, SPHP, or we’ll never get out of here.
The talus was of moderate size, and since most of the territory ahead was otherwise nearly flat, SPHP managed to maintain a semi-decent rock hopping pace as Lupe explored at will. Even up here, some tundra existed, with routes toward the W often offering the easiest terrain.
Already high on the mountain, SPHP kept expecting to see the top ahead as Lupe continued N climbing a series of small, steep rises separated by flat regions. At last, the American Dingo reached a talus plain that was not only almost perfectly flat, but seemed to have an end to it.
Meanwhile, back to the S, Peak 3850 appeared different from this great height, and smoke in the upper atmosphere was now visibly drifting E from the Yukon into the Northwest Territories.
The Artic apocalypse is renewing its attack, SPHP!
Yeah, looks that way, Looper. We better keep an eye on it.
Going a bit farther N, it suddenly became clear that this talus plain wasn’t entirely flat. A slightly elevated region with a little bump on it was visible at the far end.
A cairn, SPHP!
7:07 PM, 57ºF, North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.) – There were actually 2 cairns, the one the Carolina Dog stood proudly on now, and another one 60 feet away along the precipitous E edge. Either cairn, or any of a jillion other rocks at about the same elevation, might have been the site of the true summit, but this was good enough for Dingo work.
SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.
North Wright Pass Mountain! Congratulations, Loopster! We made it, and under such fine conditions, too!
Couldn’t let a day like this go to waste, now could we, SPHP?
Although the cairn along the E edge would have had the best views, the cairn Lupe was at had one great advantage entirely lacking elsewhere – a patch of tundra right beside it where Lupe could lie down in comfort.
Impossible to miss, a bright red cloth box or pouch with a zippered top was lying upside down near the cairn. SPHP had a look at it, while Lupe relaxed on her tundra cushion.
A testament to how hot and dry this Summer of 2023 Artic apocalypse had been, despite being out in the open, the red box was completely dry. White lettering on the exterior said “Emergency First Aid”. The zipper didn’t work very well, but upon getting the pouch open, SPHP found that it actually was full of potentially useful items in a pinch.
All of the first aid supplies were in perfect condition. Returning them to the red pouch, SPHP zippered it shut again, then placed it in a nook at the base of the cairn for the next visitor in need. Lupe was now looking mighty comfortable, dozing in the sunshine nearby.
Sorry to disturb you, Loopster, but I happen to have chocolate coconut bar in the pack. Don’t suppose you would be interested in splitting it with me, would you?
Suddenly the American Dingo was wide awake. She’d had only a few pieces of beef jerky, passed out during short breaks on the way up the mountain.
If I must, I must! Bring it on, SPHP!
Like all chocolate coconut bars, this one met with instant annihilation.
We need to keep going, Loop. There’s something we ought to see.
Go where, SPHP?
To the N end of the summit plain, Looper, or at least as far as we need to go to get the best view.
Beyond the cairn, the rocky plain extended another 500 feet farther N. Toward the far end, Lupe began losing a little elevation before reaching a sharp edge. Beyond a region of green lowlands among hills and ridges of dark-colored rock, 2 mountains of nearly equal height stood out, blue amid a smoky haze.
Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.) and Peak 1520M, SPHP!
That’s right, Loop. Thought we would never see them again, but there they are, one more time, on the horizon! I started catching glimpses of them on the way up, and knew we just had to come here. Such a fabulous view of so much of the territory we traveled through the last couple of days!
It was an epic journey, SPHP! I’ll never forget it. Look! There’s Peak 1220M. We’re way above it. And off to the R (E) there’s Peak 1402M, where we first saw Mount Sittichinli.
Yup, we can see many of the passes we went over, too, Loopster. Recognize that tan gash beyond the first range of hills?
Of course! That’s where the stream was that we followed on the way back.
Having visited Mount Sittichinli only yesterday morning, and spent two whole days getting there and back again, the view from this height was enlightening, mesmerizing, sublime. For a while, Lupe and SPHP both stood staring N, scarcely able to turn away.
Yet there was more to be seen up here. Looking NE into the Northwest Territories, remote peaks beckoned from beautiful, unspoiled territories the Carolina Dog still hadn’t explored.
No doubt North Wright Pass Mountain would have offered spectacular views of an enormous expanse of territory off to the W, too. Not today, though. The Yukon remained a land of mystery hidden by the wildfire smoke of the Arctic apocalypse.
6:41 PM, N end of North Wright Pass Mountain (4500 ft.) – SPHP checked the iPhone.
Battery is down to 11% charge, Loop. I’m going to turn the GPS track off so we don’t run it completely out.
Why is it so low already, SPHP?
Because I didn’t get it fully charged this morning, Looper. The battery was at only 56% when we set out, and I haven’t been using our point to point system. Just left the GPS track on all this time. We can still take a few photos on the way back. Want to know something funny? We’ve actually got one bar of service up here. Need to call anyone? Here’s your chance!
I never call anybody, SPHP. You know that. The only reason you’ve got any service is because of that microwave tower back at Wright Pass.
Oh, yeah. You must be right, Loopster. Anyway, I suppose we should start heading back pretty soon.
After a long final look N back at Mount Sittichinli and all the amazing territory she’d so recently explored, the Carolina Dog was on her way.
On the way back to the summit cairns, Lupe stayed near the E edge, where she could enjoy the fabulous views of the Northwest Territories.
8:19 PM – More than 70 minutes after the American Dingo first reached the cairn with the red box containing emergency first aid, Lupe stood near the E edge cairn looking down on the Dempster Highway. A region of small lakes in front of a range of low hills was beyond it.
North Wright Pass Mountain has been a huge success, Sweet Puppy! So glad we did this, but you know how it is.
Onward! Puppy, ho time, SPHP?
Precisely!
Across the countless rocks of the talus fields, and along many lanes of tundra, Lupe led the way on a fantastic, fun return. As she journeyed S, the smoke in the Yukon began moving away from the Northwest Territories border, retreating SW.
Maybe this was the Arctic apocalypse’s last gasp, SPHP?
Oh, I hope so, Loopster. Wouldn’t it be nice to have beautiful, clear skies from now on?
Once back down to the big tundra benches, Lupe began making forays out to the E edge, searching for a way down to the elusive route SPHP originally intended to take up the mountain. After several attempts, she eventually found one.
It all went well. Lupe had a marvelous time. On the road leading back to the Dempster Highway from the microwave tower, exhibiting a huge burst of energy, the Carolina Dog raced back and forth along the road multiple times, showing off how fast she could run.
Holy giant deers, Loopster! Wish I felt like that. How do you do it? Think I’m going to need a day or two off. My paws are feeling a bit sore, yet after 3 consecutive days roaming the mountains, you’re like we’re just setting out!
Life in the mountains is good for you, SPHP! You’ll see, once your paws toughen up.
SPHP’s paws weren’t ever going to be as tough as Lupe’s, but no doubt she was right about the benefits of a wonderful life in the mountains.
9:51 PM, Dempster Highway pullout at Wright Pass – Back in the nick of time! The mountaintops were in the clouds as Lupe reached the RAV4, and fog soon hid absolutely everything from view. No matter! Safe in the RAV4, Lupe and SPHP feasted on California Girl spicy sardines and Ritz crackers. The ravenous Carolina Dog loved it, and after having her fill, was soon snoozing comfortably on her pink blanket.
North Wright Pass Mountain really had been awesome, and what a thrill it had been to see Mount Sittichinli again! Yet this was supposed to have been a rest day, and as SPHP tried to join Lupe in Dingo Dreamland, SPHP’s right paw insisted that tomorrow had better be one.
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