May 2015 – Page 2 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Sherbrooke Lake, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada (7-25-14)

It was 41°F and still totally overcast when Lupe and SPHP woke up in the G6. It had rained a little during the night, but by now the pavement was mostly dry. SPHP drove over to a picnic area near the N end of the Bow Parkway. No one else was around yet. While SPHP made a bit of breakfast, Lupe sniffed around. There wasn’t too much for her to do since the squirrels weren’t even up yet.

On the drive over to the picnic ground, SPHP had seen new snow high up on the mountains. Not so much to the E & S, but a fair amount to the N. The gray skies, mountaintops lost in the clouds, and new snow made the mountains look beautiful, but also remote and vaguely threatening.

After breakfast, Lupe and SPHP drove over to Lake Louise Village so SPHP could mail a postcard. While there, SPHP chanced to meet a 74 year old man from San Diego, CA. He was friendly and talkative. He was on a six month tour of the Canadian Rockies and the American West in a little motor home all by himself.

That sounded pretty awesome! SPHP enjoyed chatting with him. The man mentioned the hike to Sherbrooke Lake as a pretty nice one, and not too long. It sounded like a good idea to SPHP on a cool, drippy, overcast day when the mountains were hidden in the clouds anyway.

Sherbrooke Lake from the SE shore, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada

Lupe and SPHP had actually planned to go to Sherbrooke Lake while in the Canadian Rockies back in 2013, but SPHP had not found the trailhead. This time, with the help of a tip from the guy from San Diego, it wasn’t a problem.

From Lake Louise, Lupe and SPHP headed N and then W on the Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 past the turn off for the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93. After entering Yoho National Park, SPHP slowed down when Wapta Lake came into view on the S side of the highway. On the N side of the highway across from the lake is the Great Divide Lodge. SPHP turned into the big parking lot for the Great Divide Lodge. It turned out the trailhead wasn’t there, but SPHP knew it had to be close by.

Getting back on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 and continuing W just 0.25 mile from the Great Divide Lodge, SPHP saw another turnoff on the N side of the highway. There was no sign, but this was the correct turn for the Sherbrooke Lake trailhead. The road went N up a little hill, and then curved E to end at the trailhead parking lot, which wasn’t far from the highway at all. There were no other vehicles at the misty trailhead. Low gray clouds were dripping light rain sporadically when Lupe set out on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake.

The trail goes through the forest the entire 3.1 km to Sherbrooke Lake. Nearly all of the 165 m elevation gain occurs on the first part of the trail before it reaches a junction at 1.4 km with a trail to the lookout on Paget Peak (8,465 ft.). Ordinarily, SPHP would have been tempted to check out Paget Peak, but it seemed pointless to climb up into the fog. The last part of the trek to Sherbrooke Lake was a pleasant stroll through the dripping forest with little elevation change. Lupe was pretty damp, but in good spirits when she reached Sherbrooke Lake along its SE shore.

Under the overcast skies, Sherbrooke Lake was a light gray-green color. The air was calm, and the lake was smooth with hardly a ripple on its surface. The trail continued another 1.4 km along the E shore of the lake to the far N end.

Everything was sopping wet, as Lupe and SPHP headed N along the lakeshore trail. Little streams crossed the trail on their way down into the lake. Small birds were perched up in the trees near the water’s edge. Lupe barked enthusiastically at them. There were even a few squirrels around. Her barking echoed through the valley, but no one else was around to care.

At the far NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake, the trail went into some terrain covered with tall bushes as it started around the N shore. Here there were larger creeks flowing down into the lake. The trail started to fade quickly as it went into the wet bushes. There were rounded stones on the ground and muddy places. SPHP got the impression that this whole area Lupe was approaching was a big wash where a larger braided stream was depositing rocks and mud, slowly filling in the N end of the lake.

It was starting to rain more steadily. The trail was fading away as it headed into the tall wet bushes. The larger streams Lupe now encountered were difficult to cross without getting wet. It was becoming clear that continuing on meant both Lupe and SPHP would get totally soaked. Without adequate rain gear, it was time to turn around. Lupe was just as happy barking at birds on the way back S along the E shore of the lake, as she had been going N.

Looking back to the S from the NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake.

Lupe and SPHP had seen no one at all on the entire trip to Sherbrooke Lake, but on the way back a couple from Edmonton appeared at the junction with the trail to the Paget Peak lookout. They were very nice and SPHP chatted with them for a while.

The Edmonton couple were on their way to the N end of Sherbrooke Lake where Lupe had just been, except they were going to continue on beyond the lake. They said that the trail does not end at the N end of Sherbrooke Lake. Not too far N of the lake is a headwall. The trail climbs up and over the headwall to some fantastically beautiful territory (Niles Meadows) and goes on toward Niles Peak. Definitely worth checking out sometime, but sissy SPHP wanted to do it in better weather.

The Edmonton couple was justifiably excited about a trip to the Himalayas they were going to take in the relatively near future. They planned on spending time at a 14,000 foot elevation base camp near Mt. Everest, although they had no plans to climb Everest. The airfare there was the big expense. They could hire a Sherpa for $10 per day to haul all of their gear, cook, make camp, etc. SPHP made a mental note to cross Sherpa off the list of possible career opportunities.

Of more immediate interest to SPHP was another trek in the Canadian Rockies that they recommended. Across the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 from the Crowfoot Glacier near Bow Lake is the Helen Lake trailhead. From Helen Lake it is possible to climb up to the top of Cirque Peak where there are fabulous views of the Wapta Icefield, Bow Lake and Bow Glacier Falls. Two days later Lupe and SPHP actually climbed Cirque Peak. The experience was everything the couple from Edmonton promised it would be and more!

Just before 1:00 PM, a very soggy Lupe was back at the trailhead. Lupe hopped right into the G6 and began licking herself dry. She’d had a great time on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake. It really had been an enjoyable outing and had only taken a few hours. Sometime in the future Lupe and SPHP hope to return to see Niles Meadows.

Lupe’s 2014 visit to Sherbrooke Lake was over. It rained for a while. Lupe and SPHP took a nap. By the time SPHP woke up, the rain had tapered off. Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise Village. There was still time left in the day to do something else. Lupe and SPHP headed for Moraine Lake for a walk along the lakeshore trail.

Lupe at Moraine Lake, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-14

From the big rock pile at the outlet end of Moraine Lake, SPHP was amazed how blue the lake was despite the still cloudy skies.

Moraine Lake and Valley of the Ten Peaks from the rock pile.

After dinner, Lupe and SPHP went to Lake Louise to take a wonderful evening stroll to the end of the lake.

Lupe took an evening stroll along beautiful Lake Louise to the far side of the lake. Mt. Lefroy (L) and Mount Victoria (center) visible in the distance. — Lupe took an evening stroll along beautiful Lake Louise to the far side of the lake. **Mt. Lefroy** **(11,293 ft.)** (L) and **Mount Victoria** **(11,375 ft.)** (center) visible in the distance.

The **Chateau du Lac Louise** is visible beyond Lupe across Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-14

The views at Lake Louise looked even a bit more spectacular this evening with the bit of fresh snow from last night still lingering on the peaks.

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Book Review: Ain’t it Hell, Bill Peyto’s Mountain Journal

A spring snowstorm hit the Black Hills, SD on May 9-10, 2015 putting Lupe’s planned Expedition No. 129 on hold. The G6 wasn’t going anywhere in this weather. Lupe’s options were down to romping around in the snow in the back yard, attacking the snow shovel when SPHP went out to shovel the walk out front, or snoozing and warming herself by the fire in the fireplace. She did some of each.

So instead of a trip report on Lupe’s postponed Expedition No. 129, it is time for a book review! SPHP’s spouse bought and gave the paperback book “Ain’t it Hell, Bill Peyto’s Mountain Journal” to SPHP while on vacation in the Canadian Rockies in July, 2003. The edition SPHP has is the 3rd printing, 2001 (ISBN 0-9699732-0-9) and says it is available from EJH Literary Enterprises in Banff, Canada. The book was originally copyrighted in 1995 by author E. J. Hart.

Ain’t it Hell is largely based on a journal Bill Peyto kept only sporadically from 1895 to 1921. Hart gathered additional information from many sources; “not enough for that biography, but plenty for a work of historical fiction using the known facts as a basis around which to structure the story. Ain’t it Hell is Bill’s story, as closely as I can recreate it over 50 years after his death.”

Banff where Bill Peyto used to have his guide and outfitting business is now an upscale tourist destination. — Banff was a wilderness community served by the Canadian Pacific Railroad back in the 1890’s when Bill Peyto used to have his guide and outfitting business here on the Bow River. Now Banff is an upscale tourist destination. This photo looks N along Banff Avenue from just S of the bridge over the Bow River towards downtown and Cascade Mountain.

Ebenezer William Peyto was born in England on February 14, 1869. In early 1887 he left England, and by late March or April of that year was working for the Canadian Pacific Railroad near Kicking Horse Pass in the Canadian Rockies. From then on “Wild Bill” Peyto spent most of his rough and varied life in the Canadian Rockies.

The Banff Springs Hotel was built in 1887-1888 by the Canadian Pacific Railroad to attract tourists to the Canadian Rockies.

He soon knew as much or more about the mountains as almost anyone else around. Bill Peyto’s usual base of operations was Banff, and he became Banff’s most legendary mountain man. Bill Peyto was a hunter and trapper, prospector, guide and outfitter. Eventually he became one of the early wardens for the national park service. After marrying his first wife, Emily, Bill built a small cabin for her in town along the Bow River. He continued to spend a lot of time, though, at his other hideouts in the mountains, most notably one near a copper mining claim in an area he called the “Bookrest”.

Lupe at the Banff Springs Hotel in July, 2013

Prior to the 1890’s, many of the peaks of the Canadian Rockies had never been climbed. Tourists and alpinists were just starting to arrive on the scene in significant numbers. Bill Peyto’s initial fame grew mostly out of his work as a guide and outfitter for climbers like Walter Wilcox, Dr. J. Norman Collie, Edward Whymper, and Reverend James Outram who either were or would become famous mountaineers. Many years later, as a park warden, Bill Peyto helped find and rescue Mrs. Stone alive from a ledge on the slopes of Mt. Eon eight days after her husband, Dr. Winthrop Stone, fell to his death.

Banff Park and Cascade Mountain, July 2013 — Banff Park and **Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.)**, July 2013

Twice Bill Peyto left Banff and the Canadian Rockies to go to war on behalf of the British Empire. In 1900, he was wounded fighting the Boers in South Africa. Despite being 46 years old, in 1915 he enlisted again. By 1916 he wound up as a machine gunner fighting the Germans in Europe during WWI. Bill tried to enlist a third time in Calgary following the outbreak of WWII, but was turned down at over 70 years old.

Lupe at Bow Falls just downstream from Banff in July, 2013.

Ain’t it Hell is full of stories from Bill Peyto’s life. Once he brought a live lynx into a bar in Banff. After his first wife passed away, a photo of Bill that won an award at the Toronto Fair eventually brought him a second wife. He slept outside in minus 30 degree weather to keep from getting soft. Ain’t it Hell is also full of references to famous mountains, lakes, and rivers in the Canadian Rockies and to his experiences dealing with climbers, explorers, other guides, prospectors, businessmen, and politicians of the age.

The tack storage building Bill Peyto owned currently on the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff. — Bill Peyto’s storage building on the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff. His old cabin is also there near by, and can be toured.

Bill’s life was not easy. The mountains were wild and spectacularly beautiful, but there were also very real dangers and almost none of the amenities providing the comforts of life we take for granted now. He was a tough guy and frequently tough to get along with, living in a time and place where self-reliance was necessary to survive.

Bill Peyto died of cancer on March 24, 1943 at the age of 74. He is buried in Banff Cemetery next his first wife, Emily. Bill Peyto’s cabin and a small log storage building he used to own have been moved from their original locations along the Bow River to the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff. Bill Peyto is also commemorated by a restaurant named Wild Bill’s Legendary Saloon in Banff. Near Lake Louise, is Bill Peyto’s Café at the International Hostel and Alpine Center.

However, it seems likely the tributes that would have pleased Bill Peyto most are farther N. Along Icefields Parkway No. 93, on the way from Lake Louise to Jasper, is Bow Pass a few kilometers N of Bow Lake. Just to the W of Bow Pass is Peyto Lake, fed by the melt waters of the Peyto Glacier coming down from the Wapta Icefield below Peyto Peak.

At 224 pages including the introduction and epilogue, Ain’t it Hell is a pretty easy, quick and fun read. SPHP has read Ain’t it Hell several times over the years, and each time gets more out of it. On her summer vacations in 2013 and 2014, Lupe went to see quite a few of the lakes, rivers, mountains and passes mentioned in the book. Having been there with Lupe, it is even more fun to read about the events that once took place in the beautiful and dramatic locations mentioned in Ain’t it Hell.

This view of Peyto Lake is from a lookout deck accessible by a relatively short paved trail. The turnoff to the trailhead parking lot is at Bow Pass on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 a few kilometers N of Bow Lake and the Crowfoot Glacier.

Is Ain’t it Hell a book you might enjoy? Your reaction to the following May 15, 1910 entry from Bill Peyto’s mountain journal featured on the back cover of Ain’t it Hell is probably a good indication:

“I headed downslope to where the cubs were feeding and came up at them, hoping to scare them into one or another of my mining shafts for protection. It worked perfectly, as they ran for the nearest dark hole, and I went in with my ropes on the ready to see if I could catch one. I could hear the little fellows squealing in the dark and I paused a moment to let my eyes adjust. Just then I heard a tremendous roar and knew the sow was coming on the run looking for her wayward offspring. It didn’t take her a moment to pick up the scent and she headed straight for the mouth of the shaft bent on destruction. I knew the jig was up for sure if I lost my head and so very deliberately drew the Colt from my belt and waited for her to find us out …”

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A Quick Trip to Casper, Wyoming (May 1-4, 2015)

Late in the afternoon on Thursday, 4-30-15, SPHP’s spouse called and asked if Lupe and SPHP would come to Casper, WY for the weekend. SPHP said sure! Shortly before noon the next day, Lupe and SPHP were in the G6 and pulling out of the driveway. Lupe knew something big was up, because SPHP had piled up luggage, pillows and blankets on Lupe’s passenger side watch-dingo seat so she was nearly level with the dashboard, something that only happens before Dingo Vacations.

Lupe’s route took her through Custer, SD over to Newcastle, WY, then on to Wright, Edgerton and Midwest before reaching Casper shortly after 4 PM. It was a nice drive through wide open high plains country. Lupe had a great time barking frantically at cows, horses, sheep, an occasional pronghorn antelope, and suspicious looking bushes and buildings. When there was nothing to bark at, she stuck her nose out the partially open window to sniff the breeze.

Lupe at the apartment complex in Casper, WY.

SPHP’s spouse wasn’t at the apartment yet when Lupe arrived. That didn’t stop the dingo fun, though. Lupe soon discovered a small field out behind a row of garages where there were rabbits to chase. This was great sport, although the rabbits very soon made themselves scarce. All weekend long, every time SPHP left the apartment or G6, Lupe made a habit of running over to the little field to check on the bunny situation. She was seldom disappointed.

Lupe & buddy Cloud in the Casper apartment.

Lupe and SPHP went to gas up the G6, and by the time they got back to the apartment, SPHP’s spouse had arrived. Lupe got to see the apartment for the first time. She was very surprised to see two cats, Cloud and Shoko, but not as surprised as they were to see Lupe! Cloud was an old buddy of Lupe’s she hadn’t seen for almost two years. Cloud soon seemed to remember that Lupe was a friend of cats and no threat. Shoko, however, kept a wary eye on Lupe for the first day or so.

Lupe at home with Cloud back in July 2013.

On Saturday morning, May 2nd, Lupe got to do a little sight-seeing in the Casper area. She went to see Bridal Veil Falls on Garden Creek at the base of Casper Mountain. The falls were easily accessed via a short path. Lupe enjoyed sniffing around and wading in the creek. It wasn’t a very long outing, though.

Lupe at Bridal Veil Falls on Garden Creek at the base of Casper Mountain.

In the afternoon, Lupe and SPHP went on a four hour peakbagging quest in search of the summit of Casper Mountain (8,200 ft.). SPHP was not familiar with the area. Despite having a topo map printed out from Peakbagger.com, SPHP had some trouble finding the summit. Roads on the map only somewhat agreed with what was actually there.

The view of Casper looking N from the lookout pullout along Casper Mountain Road.

The biggest problem was that SPHP had been expecting Lupe would be free to roam on National Forest land, but the whole area seemed to be private property with a wide variety of homes, cabins and RV’s scattered through the forest. Private property, no trespassing, keep out and similar signs abounded. Lupe and SPHP stuck to the roads as much as possible, but in some places even the roads seemed to be off limits.

Another problem was that the Peakbagger.com topo map showed that the summit of Casper Mountain was just NE of a radio tower. Easy enough, but what it didn’t show was that there are multiple towers on Casper Mountain. At first SPHP thought Lupe had reached the summit of Casper Mountain after finding the first big tower. However, the road continued S and it didn’t look like it was losing much elevation. SPHP decided to check it out.

Lupe was soon gaining elevation again and came upon another big tower. The road turned SE there and clearly went uphill even from the second tower. So Lupe and SPHP continued SE on the road to another high point in the forest. It seemed like this might be the high point of Casper Mountain, but there wasn’t any tower close at hand to the SW, so SPHP was suspicious.

The 2nd (middle) tower on Casper Mountain.

The road continued on to the S, but was starting to lose elevation. Lupe and SPHP followed it anyway. It soon turned E where it looked like Lupe was nearing the S end of Casper Mountain. A big ridge could now be seen several miles off to the SE. Lupe and SPHP left the road to trek off to the SW to see what was in that direction. Lupe soon came to a little clearing full of sagebrush where there was a narrow break in the surrounding forest that gave a view of some beautiful territory and distant mountains off to the S.

Lupe at the sagebrush clearing near the S end of Casper Mountain. The views to the S didn’t turn out in this photo.

After checking out the view, SPHP turned around and suddenly saw a third tower off to the NW. It wasn’t nearly so large as the other two towers, but it was still sizeable and not very far away. Lupe and SPHP headed for it, and were soon there. The whole area around the tower was fairly level, but the highest ground did seem to be just a little way off to the NE. The tower was near the SW end of Casper Mountain, which was right according to the map.

The 3rd tower. This one was just SW of the summit of Casper Mountain.

This did indeed seem to be the true summit of Casper Mountain. Lupe had made it! It was kind of an anti-climax though; there were no views from the summit of Casper Mountain. The summit area was nearly level ground in the middle of the forest, with a not-so-impressive tower close by off to the SW.

After getting back to the G6, Lupe and SPHP went over to another high hill just NE of Bear Trap Meadow County Park. From there it was easy to see that Lupe had been to the right spot. The towers Lupe had visited were all in view. The third and smaller tower, was seen poking above the trees at the highest part of Casper Mountain. SPHP also saw that there were even more towers on Casper Mountain than the ones Lupe had found. Overall, SPHP was just happy that Lupe could claim a successful ascent of Casper Mountain on Peakbagger.com.

On Sunday, May 3rd, Lupe got to go down to Morad Park in Casper. Morad Park is an off-leash dog park right next to the North Platte River. It is a pretty popular spot. There were plenty of dogs and people around, but the park was easily big enough to give everyone space. The park is on level ground, but has a mixture of vegetation. In most places there are bushes and trees next to the river. Away from the river is more open land including some swampy stuff, little streams, and scattered trees and bushes. A nearly 8 mile long bike path that follows the river goes through the park. Lupe had such a good time sniffing around Morad Park in the morning, that she got to come back again for a 2nd visit later in the afternoon.

Lupe also paid a visit to Casper College on Sunday. She couldn’t go in to see the Casper College Tate Geological Museum, but she did visit the T. Rex outside.

The weekend in Casper flew by and soon it was Monday morning, May 4th. Lupe was up at 5:00 AM. She made one of her last rabbit run checks shortly before moonset of the full flower moon. SPHP’s spouse had to go to work. SPHP packed up the G6 again. An hour before leaving town at 7 AM, fog and drizzle rolled in. This was much to SPHP’s disappointment, since the plan had been for Lupe to climb Laramie Peak (10,272 ft.) as a side trip on the way home.

However, just 10 or 15 minutes E of Casper on I25, Lupe and SPHP drove out of the fog. There were still quite a few clouds around, but there were patches of blue sky too. SPHP decided it was worth taking a chance on Laramie Peak. At Douglas, Lupe left I25 and SPHP drove S towards Esterbrook. Ultimately, it was a long drive to Laramie Peak over gravel roads that weren’t great, but there weren’t any really bad spots either. The scenery in the Laramie Range was beautiful and had a rather wild and remote look to it.

Laramie Peak in the clouds as seen from the N.

The G6 made it as far as a junction with USFS Road No. 671 about 4 miles from Friend Park Campground. Within a 0.25 mile of starting up No. 671, the way ahead was blocked by a huge snow drift. SPHP had to back the G6 back down to the intersection.

SPHP paused to consider the situation. It was 42°F out with a chill S wind blowing a big fog bank up and over Laramie Peak from that direction. The top of Laramie Peak was nearly always in the fog. When it wasn’t, snow was visible on the upper slopes. With snow blocking No. 671, it was a 4 mile trek to Friend Campground where the hiking trail up Laramie Peak started. The climb would involve about 2,500 feet of elevation gain from where the G6 would have to be abandoned. There was a 50% chance of rain in the forecast, which would likely be snow near the summit.

SPHP had to tell Lupe she wasn’t going to get to climb Laramie Peak. SPHP just wasn’t prepared for these conditions, which probably wouldn’t have been any fun for Lupe anyway. A glorious view of fog wouldn’t have been too exciting for SPHP either.

Just because Laramie Peak wasn’t in the cards, it didn’t mean Lupe couldn’t still find a fun place to explore. Down at this elevation, at about 7,800 feet, conditions were perfectly fine. SPHP started the G6 and headed back N.

Lupe SE of Buzzard Peak and ready for a romp. — Lupe ready for a romp SE of Buzzard Peak seen in the distance. Oh, yes, and the better to lick you with my dear!

Before long there was an interesting rocky mountain off to the NW, which was very likely Buzzard Peak. Lupe didn’t get to climb Buzzard Peak either, but she did enjoy a 45 minute romp up to a rocky ridge to the SE of it where there was a splendid view of some higher peaks of the Laramie Range to the SW. Lupe and SPHP both enjoyed the break. Although the whole side trip to Laramie Peak took four hours, it was a good scouting trip. Lupe hopes to come back and climb Laramie Peak another day.

Lupe SE of Buzzard Peak in the Laramie Range. Photo looks W.

The clouds lift momentarily as Lupe leaves Laramie Peak behind.

SPHP and Lupe continued to explore new or seldom visited areas on the rest of the way home. E of Lusk, WY was the little town of Van Tassell just before crossing the border into Nebraska. There were interesting rock formations at Van Tassell. According to Wikipedia, Van Tassell is the least populous town (15 according to the 2010 census) in the least populous county in the least populous state.

At Harrison, NE, Lupe and SPHP turned N onto a road that soon turned to gravel and wound around for many miles through scenic ranching territory. Lupe had a time again barking at cows (including a few longhorns) and horses all the way to Ardmore, SD. Lupe’s last stop before home was at Cascade Falls S of Hot Springs, SD. At Cascade, Lupe got in the warm water stream, had a long drink and waded around for a while.

Lupe in the warmish mineral waters just upstream of Cascade Falls.

Cascade Falls S of Hot Springs, SD. The swimming hole beneath the little falls is surprisingly deep.

Lupe didn’t arrive home until about 5:30 PM. She and SPHP had spent 10.5 hours to get from Casper to home, a trip that had only taken 4 hours on Friday. So what? Lupe and SPHP had a great time wandering and seeing some new territory. In the evening SPHP went to Safeway and bought some fried chicken. Lupe volunteered to help devour it. With a tummy full of chicken, suddenly Lupe was pretty tired. It had been a long day of barking at cows, horses and pronghorn antelope, plus all the running around near Buzzard Peak and other little stops along the way.

Lupe’s four day weekend trip to Casper, WY was over. She was soon snoozing soundly while SPHP read a book about the Canadian Rockies. It wasn’t long before SPHP was out like a light too.

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