Lupe in The SCREE! – the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the Story of Henry Pinkham

What!  How could that possibly be?  It defied imagination.  Yet, there it was.

In early April of 2018, Lupe had a new comment on her blog, a fairly rare occurrence.  The comment was from a name that SPHP recognized from Peakbagger.com.  From completely out of the blue,  Steven Gruhn, an active mountaineer in Alaska, had made the comment.  What Steven wrote was as astounding as it was unexpected:

Hi.  I stumbled across your blog after noting Lupe’s ascents of Slope Mountain and Lake Benchmark Mountain on peakbagger.com. I try to keep track of the earliest recorded ascents of every peak in Alaska and I hadn’t known of ascents to the summits of either of those peaks. Did you notice any evidence of a prior ascent on either peak? I also try to help drum up reports of noteworthy ascents for publication in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter, the Scree. Would you be willing to submit a trip report on your ascents of those two peaks for publication in the Scree?

The whole notion was astonishing!  Had Lupe climbed 2 peaks in Alaska on her 2017 Dingo Vacation that no one else had ever been up, at least in recorded history?  No, that wasn’t true.  Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) and Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) were the two northernmost peaks that Lupe had ever climbed, but there had been definite signs of prior ascents at both.

A little way W of the summit, Lupe had come to a survey benchmark on Lake Benchmark Mountain, and at the top of Slope Mountain there had been two cairns and a big tower.  Still, it made SPHP smile to think that an experienced mountaineer from Alaska, who tracked such things, did think it within the realm of possibility that the Carolina Dog had actually been the first ever to climb one or both of these peaks.

Loop at the true summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain along the N edge of the Brooks Range in N Alaska on a foggy day. 8-19-17

Steven certainly deserved a response!  SPHP sent an email thanking Mr. Gruhn for his comment, and then went on to explain the situation Lupe had found at each peak.  Of course, Lupe would be tickled pink to submit trip reports for publication in the Scree.  What a great honor it would be to have anything published in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter!

However, did Steven still think that was appropriate?  After all, SPHP didn’t believe for a minute that Lupe had been the first to scale either mountain.  Furthermore, Lupe and SPHP aren’t real mountaineers by any stretch of the imagination.  Self-glorified day hikers, at best.  Anyone could climb Lake Benchmark Mountain or Slope Mountain.  Neither was difficult.  No special equipment or technical expertise required.

Lupe out on the N slope of Alaska on top of Slope Mountain.  Slope Mountain is the northernmost peak Lupe has ever climbed.  8-22-17

Gruhn responded almost immediately:

Despite the presence of human-placed objects on or near the summits, I’m still interested in reports on these two ascents. The benchmark west of the summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain was placed in 1971 by the USGS via helicopter, which landed at the benchmark site, so it’s quite possible that the geologists who placed it did not venture east from the helicopter landing site  …  Not all of the MCA members are hardcore mountaineers; many are hikers like yourself and I’d like the Scree to reflect all types of mountaineering from hardcore stuff to hiking and skiing.

Really?  So maybe Lupe actually was the first to visit the summit of Lake Benchmark Mountain?  The whole notion still seemed unbelievable, but who knows?  What the heck?  For the time being, the first ascent of Lake Benchmark Mountain could be Lupe’s claim to fame until someone came along with evidence to dispute it.  As for supplying trip reports on both peaks for publication in the Scree, apparently it was a go, with Mr. Gruhn’s blessing!  If the Mountaineering Club of Alaska was willing to consider publishing them, that was a tremendous honor the American Dingo had no intention of passing up!

During the process of submitting materials for the requested trip reports [actually condensed versions of original posts on The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe], SPHP emailed Mr. Gruhn asking if it was possible for Lupe to become an official member of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska?  She was more than willing to fill out an application form and send in her dues.

Steven responded with the story of Henry Pinkham:

Your query reminds me of the tale of Bill Putnam, who later served as President of both the Harvard Mountaineering Club and the American Alpine Club. In his youth Putnam petitioned the American Alpine Club for membership for his dog, Henry Pinkham. At the time, applicants for membership had to be sponsored by another AAC member and had to complete a certain number of climbs in a multiple mountain ranges. Henry Pinkham had met all such requirements and even had a Canadian mountain named in his honor (Mount Sir Henry in the northern Selkirks). And as Putnam reasoned, the AAC had already added several SOBs to its membership rolls. Henry Pinkham was voted into membership, but before his name could be officially added to the membership roster, Putnam’s ruse was revealed and Henry Pinkham’s membership was revoked.

Well, shucks.  Clearly the implication was that Lupe could not join the MCA unless she did so surreptitiously.  It would be ungrateful, to say the least, to break the rules of an organization about to bestow a great honor upon her.  So Lupe never has become a card carrying member of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, though she would have liked to.

The Henry Pinkham tale was amusing!  SPHP found another account of it on a thread on SuperTopo.com in memory of Bill Putnam following his demise in 2014.  The following comment was made by “hamie”:

Soldier [2 purple hearts], scientist, explorer, climber, hut builder, writer, philanthropist and……..prankster!

Bill Putnam’s attempt to trick the AAC into accepting his dog Henry Pinkham as a member is a well known story, and has already been mentioned. Less well known is how he fooled the Canadian Geographic Features Naming Committee [or whatever it is called].

Way back in 1950 he and his companions made the first ascent of several mountains near Fairy Meadows in the Northern Selkirks. He decided to call these mountains the Nobility Group, and name them after himself and his friends, along with giving themselves honorary knighthoods. The results were:

Mt. Sir William. [Putnam]
Mt. Sir Andrew. [Kaufmann]
Mt. Sir Henry. [Pinkham, his dog!!]

The naming board was duly impressed, the names became official, and were duly printed on subsequent maps. About 10 years ago the hoax finally reached bureaucratic ears, and I believe that the official names were all revoked. Amongst other reasons it is not permitted to name mountains after living people [or mess with the bureaucracy]. Hopefully the name Sir William will now be reinstated, as it is well deserved. Sir Henry? Less likely.

On a historical note a similar, but more devious hoax was perpetrated by Kruszyna when he named the Chess Group in the Rockies.

In the end, with Mr. Gruhn’s help, everything turned out great!  Lupe did get published in the Scree.  Not twice, but three times!  For Steven Gruhn later asked about Peak 3750 up on K’esugi Ridge in Denali State Park which Lupe had climbed on her 2018 Dingo Vacation to Alaska.  More than happy to oblige, Loop submitted a trip report on it, too!

So there in the Scree, among all the stories by genuine mountaineers climbing some of the most challenging mighty peaks in Alaska with ropes, ice axes, crampons and all the rest, appears the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, with her tales of adventure on peaks that are simple strolls by comparison.  Honors perhaps undeserved, but each a cherished memory which Lupe and SPHP will never forget.

The SCREE – July, 2018 IssueLake Benchmark Mountain (Page 3)

The SCREE – August, 2018 IssueSlope Mountain (Page 18)

The SCREE – February, 2019 Issue  – Peak 3750 on K’esugi Ridge (P. 5)

The SCREE – June 2020 Issue  – Peak 4550 on K’esugi Ridge (Page 3) & Swede Mountain (Page 5)

The SCREEJuly, 2020 IssueCrazy Notch Ridge (Page 7)

The SCREE – April, 2021 Issue  Sukakpak (Page 13)

The SCREE – February, 2024 IssueWest Galbraith Peak (Page 9)

The SCREE – March, 2024 Issue – Peak 5050, Brooks Range (Page 4)

The SCREE – April, 2025 Issue Peak 4916, Brooks Range (Page 5)

Thank you!

Many thanks to Steven Gruhn for all his hard work and interest in making it possible for Lupe to appear in the SCREE, and to the Mountaineering Club of Alaska for accepting and publishing her submissions.

Related Links:

Mountaineering Club of Alaska

William Lowell Putnam III, 1924 – 2014

Original Post: Lake Benchmark Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-19-17)

Original Post: Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Original Post: K’esugi Ridge – Ermine Hill & Peak 3700, Denali State Park, Alaska (9-4-18)

Original Post: Little Coal Creek to K’esugi Ridge – Peak 4500, Denali State Park, Alaska (8-24-19)

Original Post: Swede Mountain, Alaska (8-29-19)

Original Post: Crazy Notch Ridge, Alaska Range, Alaska (8-26-19)

Original Post: Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Original Post: West Galbraith Peak, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Original Post: Peak 5050, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-22)

Original Post: Peak 4916, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-30-24)

Lupe on Peak 3750  on K’esugi Ridge, Denali State Park, Alaska 9-4-18

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Dingo Tales IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Medicine Butte, the Uinta County, Wyoming Prominence Peak (7-23-18)

Day 11 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range of Wyoming!

6:00 AM – Foggy.  Too bad.  No point in the American Dingo running down to Lower Green River Lake to gaze upon that fabulous view of iconic Squaretop Mountain (11,695 ft.) one last time.  She wouldn’t see a thing.  Twenty minutes, and SPHP had everything ready to go.  Lupe was on her way out of the Wind River Range.

What a difference a good night’s sleep made!  Yesterday, worn out and weary, SPHP was convinced it was over.  Lupe was going straight home.  This Dingo Vacation was kaput!  However, as the G6 bumped along the washboardy road from Green River Lakes back to civilization, the fog began to lift.  The gorgeous Green River came into view.  Skies turned blue.  A surge of energy and sense of well-being!  Optimism returned.

Lupe still had a couple of peaks on her wish list in SW Wyoming.  They were only a few hours drive away.  Why not let Looper do them now?  Neither involved exhausting backpacking trips like Bomber Mountain and Squaretop had been.  Half a day each, if that.

Riding with her head out the window, Lupe kept an eye out for gophers scampering over or alongside the dusty road.  A frenzy of shrill Dingo barking erupted each time one came into view.  Loop certainly seemed to have recovered.  Clearly, she was all for extending her vacation!

Long before the G6 made it back to pavement, a new decision.  Home could wait.  Lupe was heading for Medicine Butte (8,608 ft.), the Uinta County, Wyoming High Point!

In G6 air-conditioned comfort, Lupe spent the morning exploring new territory on a scenic drive S on Hwy 189 to I-80.  Her only complaint was that this region was so deserty that even cows and horses were scarce.

By early afternoon, SPHP was looking for the R turn off Hwy 89 N of Evanston onto County Road No. 108.  Although there were no signs for No. 108 until after the turn was made, this was the road to the landfill, and there was a big sign for it.

Heading N out of Evanston, Wyoming on Hwy 89 watch for this sign for the landfill on the R. This is the turn onto County Road No. 108 to Medicine Butte. Photo looks N.

The pavement ended almost immediately, but County Road No. 108 was wide and well-graded.  After a mile or two, the road went over a hill, and Medicine Butte (8,608 ft.) came into view off to the NE.  Medicine Butte was nothing more than an over-sized, thirsty-looking, sagebrush-covered hill, itself.  Nary a tree in sight on the SW slope, but Loopster could see towers up on top.

There’s Medicine Butte (Center) now! Not looking like I’ll be finding any squirrels up there, but at least there ought to be some fine views! Photo looks NE.

The landfill was 3 miles from Hwy 89.  SPHP parked the G6 along No. 108 0.33 mile beyond the landfill entrance.  (1:09 PM, 82°F)  The road began to deteriorate here, but even the G6 could have gone miles farther.  That wasn’t the plan.  The American Dingo was here to get the full, genuine Medicine Butte experience – 1,700 feet of elevation gain with panoramic views of Wyoming sagebrush territory.

All the action was at the landfill.  Bulldozers pushed piles of human-generated debris around.  Meanwhile, clouds of white birds that looked like badly misplaced seagulls swirled excitedly overhead.  Landfills are inherently revolting, but it was sort of fun to watch the birds, though one wondered whether they were likely to profit by their keen interest in the landfill’s contents, or end up suffering for it.

Evanston swirling birds landfill action! Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Never ask a bird what restaurant they recommend.

County Road No. 108 winds all the way to the top of Medicine Butte, a distance of roughly 4 miles from close to the landfill where the G6 was parked.  The road climbed nearly the entire way with only one minor dip.  It didn’t get steep until near the end, where high clearance and 4WD might be required.

Looper about to set off for Medicine Butte. The road was a gentle incline at first, but gradually steepened. Photo looks NE.

Fearing cactus and rattlesnakes, SPHP persuaded Lupe to stay on the road the whole way.  Partway up, cows were grazing on what looked like slim pickings in a ravine N of the road.  Loop was interested, but went on by without getting too rambunctious.

No. 108 went E at first, working its way up onto a long ridgeline S of Medicine Butte.  It then followed the ridge N.  The hike along the open ridge was fairly scenic, amazingly so, for fans of sagebrush.

Getting the full, genuine Medicine Butte experience early in the afternoon on a day in late July probably isn’t ordinarily the best plan of attack.  There wouldn’t have been any shade, but the luck of the Dingo held for a while.  For some reason, this wasn’t a searing hot day, and a cloud formation hung around providing shade for close to half of the way to the summit.

Nevertheless, the road hike was a little warm for wearing a fur coat, and Lupe hadn’t changed out of hers.  As had been obvious from the start, she came to no water at all.  Fortunately, SPHP had brought plenty.  Periodic water stops were a necessity and helped lighten the pack.

Getting closer. County Road No. 108 goes along the top of the near ridge on the R, eventually reaching the tower on the R before heading L to the summit. Photo looks N.

Heading N along the ridge, Lupe passed an initially confusing sign about access, but it became clear that the road actually was legal public access.  A lone pickup truck that went by, then came back down an hour later, constituted all the traffic Lupe encountered.  An hour and a half after leaving the G6, Loop was on the final steep slope nearing the summit.

Closing in on the summit of Medicine Butte. Photo looks NW.

The top of Medicine Butte was roomy and covered with an assortment of towers and associated small buildings.  The highest point, and apparent true summit, was a pile of rocks close to a white concrete block building.

Lupe reaches the highest pile of rocks at the summit of Medicine Butte. Photo looks SE.

A search for a survey benchmark turned up only a metal pin painted blue a little SE of the highest rock pile.

A search for a survey benchmark revealed only this metal pin.

Lupe was hot.  She plunked herself down on the ground in the shade of the white concrete block building.  Ants swarmed up onto her, and for a while she busied herself eating ants.  The ants were too numerous, though.  Annoyed with the whole situation, Loop moved closer to the building where there weren’t nearly as many.

A Carolina Anteater, sometimes called an American Anteater, relaxes in the shade.

The towers and small buildings were the only obstacles blocking the views from Medicine Butte.  Of course, it was easy enough to move around a bit and see in any direction one wished.  Unfortunately, the air was hazy with smoke from distant forest fires.  A clearer day would have revealed much more detail, but Lupe could still see a long way.

Looking SW toward Evanston, WY.
Evanston again, with help from the telephoto lens.
County Road No. 108, which Lupe had taken up, is seen on the R. Photo looks SE.

Although the S slopes of Medicine Butte were treeless, it turned out the N slopes were partially forested.  Miles beyond the trees, a big wind farm was in view off to the NE.

Only a few of the turbines were turning.  That was surprising.  Yes, the air had been calm on the way up Medicine Butte, and only a light breeze was blowing close to the white concrete building when Lupe had come up from the SE.  However, when she went over to the NW side of the summit, a 15 or 20 mph wind was coming out of the NW.

Lupe clearly enjoyed being in the wind.  Not something the Carolina Dog usually likes, but the breeze felt good on a warm summer afternoon.

A wind farm was in view miles away. Only a few of the turbines were turning, even though there was a good breeze out of the NW on Medicine Butte. Photo looks NE.
Loop at the NW end of the summit enjoying a 15-20 mph breeze. She had a great view here, too. The territory NW of Medicine Butte was the most unspoiled. Photo looks NW.
The W half of the summit area from the NW side. Photo looks SE.

Medicine Butte (8,608 ft.) was the highest mountain in any direction for a long way.  Nothing close to being as high was in sight anywhere to the N or E.  Distant ridges to the W looked about equal in height.  Only to the S and SE were higher peaks seen, and they were far, far away.

No one else was around.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the views for half an hour, then it was time to think about leaving Medicine Butte.  One more peak left on this Dingo Vacation before the Carolina Dog really would be on her way home.  Little Mountain (9,131 ft.), the Sweetwater County, Wyoming Prominence Peak was a couple hours drive away.  Lupe might as well get closer to it this evening.

A final look around, and Lupe was on her way.

SPHP had no idea what these contraptions were. The Evanston Landfill is in sight below. Photo looks SW.
Back at the true summit of Medicine Butte before heading back. Photo looks S.
County Road No. 108 snakes down from the tower on the L along the near ridgelines to the far R. Photo looks SE.
Lupe about to start down County Road No. 108. Photo looks SE.

The trek back down along County Road No. 108 was easier and went faster, a pleasant time.  Lupe felt energetic, and roamed off road a little.  Fortunately, she suffered no encounters with cactus or rattlers.

SPHP had left a pair of wet boots up on top of the G6 to dry while Lupe visited Medicine Butte.  Worked great.  They were completely baked by the time the American Dingo returned.  (5:03 PM, 86°F)

In Evanston, SPHP picked up some fried chicken and a few other things at Walmart.  Lupe spent the evening enjoying dinner with a “moo”vie in the G6, munching on chicken and barking at big herds of black cattle as SPHP drove E on Hwy 414 down the beautiful valley of the Henry’s Fork of the Green River.  By the time the sun went down, she was in Utah with a splendid view of Sheep Creek Bay, part of Flaming Gorge Reservoir.

After Lupe’s huge adventure up Squaretop Mountain in the Wind River Range, Medicine Butte had been the perfect recovery day.  Not too long, not too short.  Not too hard, or too easy.  Solitude and a pleasant trek with panoramic views of Wyoming’s wide open sagebrush country, all sandwiched between relaxing, scenic drives before and after.

Can’t ask for much more than that!

Sheep Creek Bay of Flaming Gorge Reservoir, Utah 7-23-18

Links:

Directions to Medicine Butte by Edward Earl

Next Adventure                       Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.