The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Beaver Slide Mountain, the Arctic Circle, and the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center, Alaska (8-19-22)

Part 2 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

10:11 AM, 47ºF – After leaving Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), the Dalton Highway gradually descended to the Kanuti River, crossed it, and began to climb again.

Hey, Loop! Skies are pretty cloudy up ahead, and the last forecast we had said 70% chance of rain in Coldfoot today, so I don’t think there’s any big rush to get there. We’re coming to a big hill that I’d more or less forgotten about since the last time we were here in 2017. Should be an easy climb. Are you interested?

Will we still get to the Arctic Circle today, SPHP?

Oh, yeah! No sweat! We’re practically to it already, Looper. In fact, we’re so close that I’m thinking of naming this hill Subarctic Peak, since it’s only about 5 miles S of the Arctic Circle.

Subarctic Peak, SPHP? I like it! Sounds like a cool name for my first new Alaskan peak in 3 years. Let’s do it!

11:26 AM, 49ºF, near MP110 – The Dalton Highway went right on up and over Subarctic Peak’s E shoulder. Parking the RAV4 alongside an Alaska oil pipeline access road conveniently close to the high point, SPHP then shared a light lunch of cheese and Ritz crackers with the Carolina Dog.

Well, that ought to be about enough, Looper. You were urpy this morning, remember? Ready for a romp up Subarctic Peak?

Yes, but I’m even more ready for more cheese and crackers, SPHP.

I know, but let’s not overdue it. C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho!

Setting out for **Subarctic Peak** (L). Photo looks W.

Trotting a short distance NW to the Dalton Highway’s high point, Lupe came to a sign.

What does it say, SPHP?

Says “Beaver Slide”, Loop.

Beaver Slide? Odd, what’s that supposed to mean, SPHP?

It means I was wrong, Loopster. I just assumed this hill didn’t have a name, but it does. Beaver Slide is a name assigned by the truckers who first drove the Dalton Highway during its construction.

Well, it’s a funny name, SPHP. You mean to tell me that the first new peak I’m climbing in Alaska is actually Beaver Slide? Subarctic Peak sounded way more daunting, maybe even dangerous!

Maybe so, Loop, but it is what it is. Besides, maybe Beaver “Slide” actually does imply some real danger to a trucker on the long approaches during icy conditions?

Oh, well then, that’s different, SPHP! Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.), or bust!

Going a little beyond the crest of the Dalton Highway prior to crossing over to the W side, the ditch was full of water. Backtracking to the high point, the ditch was drier. Lupe was reluctant to follow SPHP through thick vegetation toward a line of tall bushes until discovering a faint path that got her past them.

Emerging from the tall bushes, the path continued up a mixed slope of tundra and much lower bushes. A couple of sizable rock outcroppings were ahead. Beyond them a series of high points were in sight along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

Heading for the **N ridge**. Photo looks WNW.

The path went W up a shallow drainage that was wet in spots. Only a few days past mid-August, but the tundra was already sporting amazing autumn colors. Brilliant reds of the alpine bearberries were the most dazzling of all.

On a dazzling carpet of alpine bearberries.

Passing between the 2 rock outcroppings, the path turned NW along the back side of the larger one. Lupe left the trail here to scramble up onto a small stony ridge. Gazing ESE back toward the start, the RAV4 was only a blue dot down by the Dalton Highway and the Alaska oil pipeline.

**Dalton Highway** and **Alaska oil pipeline** from the first stony ridge. Photo looks ESE.

To the W, an easy tundra slope led up to a saddle between the 2 high points farthest N along Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge.

The **saddle** (L of Center) on **Beaver Slide Mountain’s N ridge**. Photo looks W.

During the gorgeous trek up to the saddle, Lupe passed a few more wet spots, but the tundra was dry by the time she reached it. Several rocky high points were now visible off to the S, the most distant one being the apparent summit. Another high spot was only a short distance N.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (L of Center). Photo looks S.

**Northernmost high point** (R of Center) along the **N ridge**. Photo looks N.

I know it’s the lowest one, but want to check out the N high point, SPHP?

Sure! Why not, Loop? We’re almost there already.

At the N high point, a knob of rock made a terrific Dingo perch offering some great views. The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were off to the E and N. The 3 high points the American Dingo would head for next were due S. Perhaps the most intriguing view was of a big dome 7 miles WNW.

On the **N high point**. **Summit** (R of Center) in the middle. Photo looks S.

**Beaver Slide Mountain’s N high point**. Lupe started from the side road (L) linking the **Dalton Highway** and the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks SE.

**Dalton Highway** heading off to the N. Photo looks NNW.

The **intriguing dome** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

That’s a cool dome, SPHP! Looks like it wouldn’t be hard to get to, either.

Maybe someday, Miss Ambitious, but we’re not going that far today.

Does it have a name, SPHP?

Nanuk Benchmark (2,688 ft.), Looper. Or Nanuk Dome, if you prefer.

If we’re not going there today, SPHP, at least put it on my list of future possibilities.

I will, Loopster! Ready to continue on to the next high point?

Might as well hit ’em all, SPHP!

Following the broad ridge S to the next high point, Lupe was soon there. Like the N high point, this one featured a rocky Dingo perch, too.

Heading for the **next high point** (L). Photo looks S.

On the **2nd high point**. **1st (N) high point** (R). Photo looks N.

Two higher points were still farther S. Lupe passed a smaller crag on the way to the third high point, which was capped with a ridge of boulders. Getting up onto the third high point required a little bit of a scramble, but nothing the Carolina Dog wasn’t up to.

**Summit** (Center), and the **3rd high point** (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Approaching the **3rd high point** (Center). Photo looks S.

**3rd high point** (L), **1st high point** (Center), **2nd high point** (R). Photo looks N.

On the **3rd high point**. Photo looks SSW.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (L) from the **3rd high point**. Photo looks SSW.

Only one more high point to go! From the 3rd high point, it still looked like the true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain, too, although there might possibly be something a little higher still unseen beyond it.

The S end of the 3rd high point was so precipitous that Loopster had to scramble down to the E before continuing her trek S.

**Beaver Slide Mountain summit** (Center). Photo looks S.

Starting the scramble down off the **3rd high point**. Photo looks NW.

Passing a couple of minor ridges on the way to the summit. Photo looks WSW.

1:07 PM, 52ºF, Beaver Slide Mountain (2,600 ft.) – The slope leading to the true summit was both gentler and longer than any of the other high points had been. The summit region was much more spacious, and less rugged, too. Lupe arrived to find a metal rod jutting up from the rocks, but that was it.

Heading up to the true summit. Photo looks S.

At the **true summit of Beaver Slide Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Congratulations, Loopster! May I shake your paw?

Of course, SPHP! Talk about easy! Beaver Slide Mountain is cake! Nothing dangerous about it at all.

Well, I kind of figured this one wasn’t too tough, Loopster, but look at these views! Worthwhile, wouldn’t you say? Personally, I think they’re marvelous!

Oh, I most definitely agree, SPHP. Glad we came! Naturally, I’d appreciate these views even more, if you happen to have a chocolate coconut bar.

Luck of the Dingo, I do!

Sitting down together in a 10 mph NW breeze, the chocolate coconut bar quickly vanished without a trace. For nearly half an hour, Lupe stayed on SPHP’s lap surveying the magnificent views in all directions. Beneath mostly cloudy skies, Beaver Slide Mountain itself never seemed to be in sunshine, but patches of sunlight could be seen drifting across a vast empty land of rolling hills and valleys.

The Dalton Highway and Alaska oil pipeline were still in sight to the E. A tiny blip was identifiable as the top of Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.) far to the SE only because the Dalton Highway went right by it.

**Dalton Highway** and **Alaska oil pipeline** (Center & R). Photo looks NE.

Nearly due S, Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was 7 miles away. Lupe had been there 5 years ago. Seeing it again from here produced a wistful, funny feeling.

**Caribou Mountain** (Center) on the horizon. Photo looks S.

7 miles WNW, Nanuk Dome (2,688 ft.) continued to entice. A few miles closer, and Lupe would have set out for it today.

**Nanuk Dome** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

But it was the view more directly W here, where unspoiled hills and ridges extended seemingly to the end of the world somewhere beyond vision, that felt most compelling. Lupe could roam there forever!

1:49 PM, Beaver Slide Mountain –

Getting sunnier, SPHP. It’s wonderful here, but if we aren’t going to go any farther, maybe we should head back? I still want to visit the Arctic Circle today, and if we get far enough N afterwards, maybe we can be ready to do something in the Brooks Range tomorrow?

Alrighty, Looper. Hate to leave, but I guess that makes sense. If it’s sunny in the Brooks Range tomorrow, you’re right! We won’t want to miss out.

Final moments on **Beaver Slide Mountain**. Photo looks N.

The return was a super easy, scenic romp across the beautiful tundra. Lupe went by all the high points she’d visited during her ascent, but did not climb any of them again.

Approaching the **3rd high point** (Center) on the way back. Photo looks N.

Leaving an enchanted land! **3rd high point** (L). Photo looks SW.

Once back to the RAV4 (3:00 PM, 59ºF), the Arctic Circle was only another 5 miles N. Didn’t take long to get there, but so many people were coming and going that Lupe had to wait quite a while for her turn in front of the big sign.

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was back! On this happy day, Lupe reached the true Arctic again for the 5th time!

3 years ago, the Arctic Circle was as far N as the American Dingo made it. She’d arrived along the Dempster Highway in Yukon Territory in a miserable cold rain on the verge of becoming a snowstorm that might easily have stranded the old G6. Through the gloom, Lupe had seen new snow on the Richardson Mountains before SPHP felt obliged to beat a hasty retreat.

She hadn’t been this far N since.

6:00 PM, Coldfoot, MP175 – No stopping Looper today, though! 60 miles N of the Arctic Circle at Coldfoot Camp in the Brooks Range, she waited in the RAV4 while SPHP gorged on the evening buffet. The only choice available from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM, the buffet was $27.95, tax included.

So, was it worth it? You should have seen the Carolina Dog’s eyes light up when SPHP produced a big barbecued beef rib with plenty of savory meat attached. Munching and crunching away, Lupe devoured it, bone and all! So deliciously satisfying!

Gasoline was a mere $7.499 per gallon. The Brooks Range is no place to get stingy! SPHP let the RAV4 quench its thirst.

**Coldfoot Camp**. One operational gas pump. Better get it while the getting’s good!

The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center right across the Dalton Highway from Coldfoot Camp was open until 9:00 PM, giving SPHP a chance to play tourist after dinner while Lupe relaxed in the RAV4.

Sign at the turn off the Dalton Highway to the **Arctic Interagency Visitor Center**.

At the **Arctic Interagency Visitor Center**.

The visitor center proved to have lots of free brochures, some really nice displays, and a friendly, helpful staff. SPHP liked the dioramas best, and even attended a 40 minute long ranger talk held just before closing time.

9:40 PM, Dalton Highway N of Coldfoot – After crossing 2 bridges over the Middle Fork of the Koyukuk River, a side road appeared on the R beyond MP195. After making the turn, this side road led to an enormous open space. Ahead stood a huge mountain, all golden in the late evening sun. A skiff of new snow was visible near the top.

This must be the place, Loop!

What place, SPHP? Are we going to climb that mountain?

Weather permitting, that’s the plan, Looper. Think this is where Andrew Holman and Abbey Collins set out for Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.) less than a year ago.

So, that’s Poss Mountain, SPHP?

Believe so, Loopster. Been wanting to take a stab at Poss ever since we first saw it from Sukakpak Mountain back in 2016.

Poss Mountain looks mighty steep, SPHP! Really think we can climb it?

Don’t know, Loop. Might be beyond us. Shall we find out?

On **Beaver Slide Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-19-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Beaver Slide Mountain GPS Track (Ascent)

Caribou Mountain, Alaska 8-16-17

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

North to Alaska – Return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! (8-17-22)

Days 19, 20, and Part 1 of Day 21 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-17-22, 7:19 AM, 55ºF, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake – Rained all night, and was still raining as Loopster got underway again. The 20 km gravel road back to the Alaska Highway was a sea of mud, the poor RAV4 a filthy mess by the time SPHP turned W onto the pavement. When the American Dingo reached Haines Junction, though, the RAV4 was looking shiny and new again, except for the rear end, which the rain hadn’t been able to wash off.

How far are we going today, SPHP?

Dunno, Loop. Depends on how long this rain continues. All the way to Alaska, easy, if it keeps up like this.

Alaska! Today? Are we really that close to Alaska, SPHP?

Yup! Remember when we climbed AB Mountain near Skagway, and you became the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, Loop? We already passed the turn to Skagway before we even got to Whitehorse.

We skipped Skagway? Why? What part of Alaska are we going to, SPHP?

As far N as we can, Looper!

The Brooks Range, SPHP?

And beyond! Deadhorse, sweet puppy! I want to see the North Slope. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is returning to the true Arctic! Of course, we won’t get that far in a day, but what’s the rush? We’ll be traveling through some fabulous territory. If things dry out, we’ll be making stops at some great spots you’ll recognize along the way.

N of Haines Junction, it was only 48ºF as SPHP drove past Decoeli. Lost in rain and fog, there was no recognizing that fabulous peak.

8-17-22, 10:02 AM – Only a short time later, the pavement was dry as SPHP made the turn off the highway onto the big pullout at the S end of Kluane Lake. Clouds hung gloomily over Sheep Mountain, but at least it wasn’t raining. A SW wind kicked up dust over in the Slims River valley. A lot of memories here as Lupe took a stroll along the lakeshore.

**Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (L). Photo looks NNW.

**Slims River valley** (Center) from **Kluane Lake**. **Sheep Mountain** (R). Photo looks WSW.

So long since the last time Lupe had been here that SPHP decided to stay a while. With a view of the mountains marching away to the N beyond Kluane Lake, SPHP spent a couple of hours working on the trip journal, glancing up now and then to watch the waves roll in. Loop slept on her pink blanket, enjoying the rest after her windy ascent of Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) yesterday.

Taking a second leisurely stroll along the lake before moving on, Lupe went farther this time. The weather was even more unsettled now, the wind picking up, and the waves larger than they’d been earlier. SPHP enjoyed the walk right along the shoreline best, but the Carolina Dog preferred sniffing among the young aspens beyond the beach on the way back to the RAV4.

8-17-22, 1:13 PM, 59ºF – Light rain set in again as the drive N resumed along the W shore of Kluane Lake. This shower was soon left behind, though, and blue sky appeared. Hit 65ºF! For the first time today, a clear view of the mountains to the W was possible. SPHP daydreamed about climbing them, a mountain NW of Burwash Creek looked particularly interesting.

8-17-22, 2:34 PM – Didn’t seem to take hardly any time at all to get here. The weather was kind of crazy. Blue skies were nearly gone again. Cool and breezy, big clouds, dust, and fog filled the sky. Distant views of the St. Elias Mountains to the W vanished almost as soon as Lupe arrived.

However, she could still see one awesome mountain just beyond the Alaska Highway bridge over the Donjek River.

**Donjek Crossing Mountain** from the **Donjek River**. Photo looks E.

Donjek Crossing Mountain, SPHP! Remember when we climbed it? Oh, what a fabulous day that was!

Heh! It was nearly your last day ever, too, Looper, if you recall!

Lunch time! The Donjek River was another favorite spot. Might as well eat here. Loop took strolls down along the river both before and after lunch. The weather continued acting up. Dust, wind, fog, patches of blue sky, intermittent rain drops, and peels of thunder! A bizarro day, but it was fun being here.

Near the mighty **Donjek River**. Photo looks SSW.

Enjoying all natural mineral water from the silt-laden **Donjek**. Photo looks SSW.

SPHP completely caught up the trip journal. Tempting to stay right here, but it wasn’t that late in the day yet, and Alaska was calling!

Onward! Puppy, ho!

8-17-22, 5:46 PM – Another magnificent river wasn’t that much farther N, one Lupe had never really spent much time at, since it wasn’t as easily accessible as the Donjek. Skies were only partly cloudy when she got to the White River, so taking this opportunity to scout it out a little better seemed in order.

Horsecamp Hill (4,600 ft.) had been on Lupe’s list of possibilities for years, and SPHP wanted to get a better look at it, too. Might be some awesome views from up there, if it wasn’t too heavily forested.

**White River** upstream view. Photo looks S.

Downstream view of the **White River**. **Horsecamp Hill** (L). Photo looks N.

N of the White River, SPHP was surprised at the number of potholes and stretches of gravel. The Alaska Highway had deteriorated in the past few years. All still perfectly passable, though, at somewhat reduced speeds.

8-17-22, 7:03 PM – Well, actually 6:03 PM Alaska time! Lupe was here!

Entering **Alaska** for the first time in 3 years!

This is a terrific sign, SPHP! Why haven’t we ever stopped here before?

Because I never thought to look for a Welcome to Alaska sign until after we went through US Customs, Loop, and this sign comes just before it.

8-17-22, 6:13 PM – After 2 questions, the customs agent returned SPHP’s passport, wishing Lupe a good day.

Congratulations Miss Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! You’re in!

Thank you, SPHP! That was easy!

As always! Helps that you’ve got an innocent, trustworthy face, Loop!

92 miles to Tok! A peaceful evening drive through a region of low hills ensued. Tall, thin, Dr. Suess-like trees of the boreal forest extended far and away on both sides of the Alaska Highway.

8-17-22, 8:00 PM – Missed it! Turning around, SPHP drove back to a big, paved pullout less than 25 miles from Tok. Not a soul here other than an annoying number of mosquitoes. Not much of a view, either, but this would do for the night.

8-18-22, 7:12 AM, 58ºF – Clear and sunny in Tok! Compared to what it had been in Canada, cheap gas, too. At a mere $4.769 per gallon, SPHP filled the RAV4 completely.

Lupe had only been on the last stretch of the Alaska Highway from Tok to Delta Junction once before, and SPHP had little recollection of it. This was not mountainous territory, most of the drive merely hilly to pancake flat. Highlights included bridges over 3 rivers, the Robertson, Johnson, and Gerstle. Large, braided streams, they were somewhat reminiscent of the Donjek and White.

8-18-22, 9:53 AM – N of Delta Junction, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River. Time to get out, have a look, and sniff the air for a few minutes. No sooner had Lupe ventured over to the river’s edge than a couple of boys came running over. They asked a million questions about Lupe, wanted to pet her, and were anxious to show SPHP a couple of sticks they had been whittling with jack knives.

New found friends by the **Tanana River**.

Gray with silt, the Tanana was like all the other big rivers Lupe had been seeing. Snow-capped peaks beyond it were an inspiring sight, but a long way off. A few miles later, another pullout on a bluff provided a better overall view of the Tanana River itself.

Magnificent, unidentified peaks beyond the **Tanana River**.

The American Dingo went into a barking frenzy prompted by low-flying jets near Eielson AFB. North Pole wasn’t much farther, and Fairbanks was just beyond that.

Beneath sunny skies with puffy white clouds, Lupe reached Fairbanks for the first time in 5 years before noon. Last chance to to resupply and fuel up with cheap gas! Free potable water at Pioneer Park, too. Once those tasks were taken care of, the Carolina Dog was free to move on. Everything was going according to plan. Only one problem.

Decision time, Loop.

About what, SPHP?

About where to go, Looper.

I thought we already knew? We’re heading N, right, SPHP?

That was the plan, but now I’m not so sure. Checked the weather forecast for Coldfoot when we got into town. It’s completely flipped from the last forecast the iPhone gave me back in Whitehorse 3 days ago. Coldfoot was supposed to be sunny and clear for a whole week. Now that we’ve come all this way, it’s saying 90% chance of rain today, 70% tomorrow, and cloudy for days after that.

Well, what are our options, SPHP?

We could delay our jaunt N by a couple of days, Loop. The forecast looks a little better down here. Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is NE out the Steese Highway. Might be fun?

You decide, SPHP! I’m happy either way.

After dithering for half an hour, SPHP made a questionable decision, continuing due N at Fox.

The drive to Livengood was beautiful! Elliot Highway No. 2 wound up and down heavily forested ridges separated by deep valleys. Not much traffic, except some big trucks. Knew where those were coming from!

8-18-22, 5:21 PM – Blinking in the late afternoon sunshine, Lupe stood in front of a sign she hadn’t seen in nearly 5 years. Must have rained not too long ago, because the pullout in front of it was muddy.

At the **start of the 414 mile long Dalton Highway**.

Naturally, the Dalton Highway was damp and muddy in spots, too. The rear end of the RAV4 was soon on its way back to being a filthy mess, but that was to be expected sooner or later on the Dalton even in the best of times. The drive was awesome! Occasional sprinkles from silver-lined clouds, the pale blue sky of the far N over dark green forests, and from some of the highest ridges, views of distant hills and mountains of the trackless wilderness.

After not having been here for so many years, it was like returning to a world once glimpsed in a long forgotten dream.

Near MP40. Out for a short stroll along the scenic **Dalton Highway**.

8-18-22, 7:00 PM – MP56! Lupe stood at the upper end of the bridge over the Yukon River, first big scenic landmark along the Dalton Highway. Although traffic was only intermittent, it wasn’t a good idea to stand there too long. A quick photo, and SPHP called her back.

On the **Dalton Highway bridge over the Yukon River**. Photo looks NNE.

Much safer to check out the mighty Yukon River from the N bank. After driving over the bridge, SPHP parked the RAV4 near an old friend, the Alaska oil pipeline. Lupe was happy to see it again before wandering over to the river for a look.

By the **Alaska oil pipeline**. Photo looks N.

**Dalton Highway bridge** from the N bank. Photo looks SW.

Down by the **N bank**. Photo looks SSE.

Evening along the **Yukon River**. Photo looks WNW.

Lemon pepper chicken! Now that was tasty, SPHP!

Guess I should have bought 2 of them in Fairbanks, Loop. We ate the whole thing!

Full of chicken, the lovely evening drive N continued.

8-18-22, 8:53 PM, MP98 – Must have rained hard here within the last hour. The last few miles of the Dalton Highway before SPHP made the turn into the Finger Mountain Wayside were a sloppy mess full of big mud puddles. Somewhere the sun was still up, but Lupe couldn’t see it due to all the dark clouds toward the N.

Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.), SPHP! We’ve got to climb it!

Absolutely, sweet puppy! Let’s go!

Finger Mountain’s summit was practically right there, only a short stroll N of the rest area. A nature trail wound up a small hill to the dramatic rock formation at the very top. The air was cool and moist, on the chilly side, actually, as SPHP took the long way around reading various plaques about the flora along the way.

Two ravens flew off as Lupe began the tiny scramble to the summit. SPHP had no intention of getting up there, but was more than willing to provide the American Dingo with the required, slightly nerve-wracking, final boost.

On **Finger Mountain** again for the first time in nearly 5 years. Photo looks NW.

Oh, my gosh, SPHP! Can’t believe I’m here on Finger Mountain again!

I know! Seems so strange, and yet so familiar, doesn’t it? You’ve almost done it, too. Only 17 miles to the Arctic Circle from here. The return of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is nearly complete!

I’ve been neglecting my Arctic Sisterhood duties for a long time, SPHP, but it wasn’t my fault. All Covid-19’s fault!

Tell me about it, Loop! None of that matters now, though, we’re back! This is as far as we’re going tonight, though. Your all new adventures in the true Arctic start tomorrow, weather permitting, of course.

As the evening sky demonstrated, that last part was somewhat in doubt. After helping Lupe down off Finger Mountain’s summit, a stroll was taken across the Dalton Highway to another, smaller rock outcropping with a view of Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) off to the WNW.

Remember our long journey to Caribou Mountain, Loop? Nobody goes there.

How can I ever forget, SPHP? It was all grand, until the very end.

Oh, yeah! We got soaked, didn’t we?

I sure did, SPHP. At least you had your old blue Cookie Monster outfit!

8-19-22, early – SPHP opened an eye. Lupe was peering out the window of the RAV4 into a thick, gray fog.

You’re awake, SPHP? Good! Can you let me out for a few minutes?

Sure thing, Loop. Need to sniff the air?

The Carolina Dog needed to do more than that. Once out of the RAV4, Lupe puked along the perimeter of the wayside parking lot. Not a lot, just a little.

Queasy, aye, Looper? Too much lemon pepper chicken? Don’t worry about it. Unless this fog dissipates, we won’t be going anywhere for a while.

Returning to the RAV4, Lupe got back up onto her pink blanket. Clearly, a morning snooze was in order. By the time Loop woke up again, the fog had a blue tinge to it, and a bright spot revealed the position of the sun.

How ya feeling, Loopster?

Much better, SPHP, thank you!

Good! Looks like this fog is about to break up. Feel up to climbing Finger Mountain again?

It’s so easy, I might as well log another ascent while we’re still here, SPHP. After all, not very often that I get the chance. We ought to visit Finger Rock, too!

That’s the spirit! You must be feeling better, Loop. Glad to see it!

8-19-22, 8:24 AM – In weak sunshine, Lupe stood atop Finger Mountain once again. She stayed there only long enough for SPHP to get photos from a couple of different angles before helping her back down again.

Back atop **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks W.

The most dramatic angle. Photo looks SSW.

The greater **Finger Mountain summit region**. Photo looks NNE.

How was it up there, Loop? Still feeling good enough to visit Finger Rock?

I’m fine now, SPHP. Let’s do it!

Finger Rock, which Finger Mountain is named for, was 0.5 mile SSE of the true summit Lupe had already visited. Bushes along an intermittent use path leading to it were soaking wet, and noticeably taller than the only other time Lupe had visited Finger Rock years ago. By the time she got to it again, the Carolina Dog mighty soggy, too.

Plaque about Finger Mountain and Finger Rock.

Approaching **Finger Rock** (L). Photo looks SSE.

Since Finger Rock wasn’t the summit of anything other than itself, Lupe contented herself with a little light scrambling around on the big rocks near its base. Finger Rock looked quite different, tall and skinny, or kind of fat and stout, depending on the angle of view.

Content with her morning inspection of famous Finger Rock, Lupe headed back to the Finger Mountain Wayside.

8-19-22, 9:46 AM – From a boulder near the summit of Finger Mountain, Lupe scanned the Kanuti River basin. Still quite cloudy that way.

**Kanuti River Basin** (R) from **Finger Mountain**. Photo looks N.

Just think! We can see more than 2/3 of the remaining distance to the Arctic Circle from here, Loop. Is the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood ready to resume her adventures in the true Arctic?

I can hardly wait, SPHP! Been waiting for this day for a long, long time!

Me, too, Loopster! Me, too!

On **Finger Mountain**, Yukon-Koyukuk Ranges, Alaska 8-18-22.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

AB Mountain – Lupe Joins the Arctic Sisterhood, Skagway, Alaska (8-7-17).

Slope Mountain and Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

Kusawa Ridge, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-16-22)

Days 17 & 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-15-22, 12:40 PM, 64ºF – After an early constitutional along the ridge overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake, Lupe spent the rest of the morning snoozing peacefully on her pink blanket in the RAV4. Tiring of the trip journal, SPHP put it away. Enough of that! Time to move on.

Cloudy and cooler today, so not much was in the works. Driving N on Hwy No. 7, SPHP eventually turned W on the Alaska Highway. After a couple of stops for supplies and fuel ($1.859 CAN/liter) in Whitehorse, Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was next.

I’m hungry, SPHP! Can you at least give me something good to eat before you treat only yourself to the hot springs?

Hah! You’re in luck, Loop! Picked up a barbecued chicken in Whitehorse. Let’s do it some damage before I go get cleaned up.

I’ll gladly help you with that chicken, SPHP! Say, this place looks vaguely familiar. Have we been here before?

Yes, several times. Used to be Takhini Hot Springs, but since we were last here a few years ago, they tore that facility down. Their fancy schmancy brand new one is open now with its glittery new name.

After hiring the water taxi to take us to Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), can you still afford it, SPHP? Looks pretty ritzy.

Hope so. If not, I’ll be back sooner than you think, Looper.

Splurge, if you have to, SPHP. Removing a few layers of that topsoil you’re wearing wouldn’t hurt a thing!

SPHP did splurge. Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs was now quite a swanky joint compared to the old Takhini Hot Springs. Sadly, prices reflected this change, but management clearly had a considerable investment to recoup. SPHP spent the better part of an hour soaking in the largest of 3 hot pools to choose from. Medium hot, it was the clear favorite of today’s guests.

How was it, SPHP? I must say, you do sniff a lot better now!

Very relaxing, Loop. Enjoyed it! Best to get here early in the day, though, if you want to save money. Paid the $29 CAN afternoon price. Only $19 CAN in the morning, $39 CAN in the evening. That’s my hot pool, hot tip of the day for Whitehorse travelers!

Felt fantastic to be clean again! Returning to the Alaska Highway, SPHP continued the drive W.

8-15-22, 8:41 PM – The turn S off the Alaska Highway came 65 km W of Whitehorse on a wide gravel road 2 km past a rest area. The RAV4 was now close to 20 km in, parked on a bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake. The sky was still gray and glum, but Lupe was in fine spirits.

Wow! We get to stay here tonight, SPHP? Look at how close we are to the lake!

Yup! Kusawa Lake is a lot bigger than it looks, too, Loop. We’re not far from where the Takhini River flows out the N end, so we only see a small fraction of it here. Kusawa Lake is one of these unbelievably long, skinny Canadian lakes that winds for miles back into the mountains.

Oh! Are we going to take another water taxi tomorrow then, SPHP?

Nope. Weather permitting, the plan is to climb Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.). It’s a popular hike only a few km from here to get to a big view of the lake from on high. Actually hoping we’ll be able to go on to Peak 6400+, too. Should be some great alpine territory to roam, if we can get that far.

I love the alpine tundra, SPHP!

I know! Me, too, Loop. Ready for dinner yet? With this S breeze coming off the lake, don’t think it makes sense to try to heat anything up. We could polish off the rest of the barbeque chicken, though.

If I must, I must, SPHP. Bring it on!

8-16-22 – Morning didn’t bring much of a change. Beneath an overcast sky, the air was cool, a chilly breeze still sweeping across Kusawa Lake. By 11:00 AM, though, the day was starting to brighten and warm up. Sick of writing, SPHP stashed the trip journal again.

Sort of a late start, Looper, but maybe now’s our chance! Kusawa Ridge?

The American Dingo was all for it.

8-16-22 – Driving S past a campground, the main road came to a “T”. Consulting directions, SPHP turned R (W). After going around a bend, the road continued S. An ancient cabin soon appeared on the L (E), just before a bridge over a good-sized stream. SPHP parked the RAV4 in an empty spot big enough for several vehicles opposite the cabin.

Lupe leapt out. No signage at all, but, sure enough, a wide path headed W into the forest.

At the “T” in the main road where SPHP turned R.

The cabin directly opposite the Kusawa Ridge trailhead.

8-16-22, 12:03 PM, 61ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – The sun was trying to break through the cloud cover as Lupe set off. Happily, just enough of a breeze here to keep the bugs away. The Carolina Dog barely got started on the broad, smooth path when she came to a small, sandy clearing with a stone campfire ring.

One minute in at the campfire ring. Photo looks W.

The level path went right on past the campfire ring, and the American Dingo did, too. Lupe hadn’t gone much farther when the path began veering N (R). Seemed a bit odd, since the route to Kusawa Ridge was supposed to follow the stream off to the S. However, the path was clear and wide, and SPHP hadn’t noticed any other.

Anticipating this jog N was temporary, SPHP expected the trail to curve SW back toward the stream at any moment. Instead, it persisted in its course N. When Lupe got so far that the stream couldn’t be heard any more, SPHP became suspicious.

Hang on, Loop! This can’t be right! We’re going the wrong way.

We’re lost already, SPHP? We’ve barely started!

I know, but I just assumed this big, wide path was the way to go. Instead, we’re heading directly away from the stream we’re supposed to follow.

Well, what about this path, SPHP? Maybe this is the way, or would you rather go back to the stream?

For the first time, SPHP noticed a side trail Lupe had spotted that headed WSW off the main one.

Never mind! This must be the way, Loop! Glad you saw it!

Taking the faint side trail, it wound mostly W or SW through an open forest full of scattered boulders and a fair amount of deadfall. Gradually gaining elevation, the terrain was interesting, allowing Lupe to explore a series of small ridges and valleys. At times the trail nearly faded away completely, but with careful examination, it was always found again.

On one of the largest boulders in the forest. Photo looks WNW.

Following the crest of a minor ridge. Photo looks NW.

Something still wasn’t right! The Kusawa Ridge route was supposed to start off following the stream for 1.6 km, but the trail went on and on, and Lupe still couldn’t even hear it. Well, no matter. Sooner or later, she’d either have to run into the stream, or Kusawa Ridge itself.

Sure enough, the American Dingo finally did reach a steep bank, nearly a cliff, overlooking the stream. There was a much clearer trail here.

Back on track along the **N bank of the stream**. Photo looks SE.

Alright, think we’re back on track now, SPHP!

Yeah, we must have messed up somehow way back near the start, Loop. Think the faint route we followed here must be the way other lost souls have gone, too. Maybe we can figure it all out on the way back?

No worries, SPHP! The way we went was fine. I enjoyed it! Onward!

Turned out, Lupe had rediscovered the main trail only a short distance from the base of Kusawa Ridge. Here, a gritty path started up a very steep slope. After an initial climb, things got easier, improving further as the Carolina Dog reached young aspens up on the broad ridge.

Near the top of the initial gritty climb at the **toe of Kusawa Ridge**. Photo looks N.

Just getting started! **Kusawa Lake** and **Mount Coudert** on the opposite shore. Photo looks SE.

The Kusawa Ridge trail featured a few level stretches, but most of the time, Lupe climbed at a good clip as the trail wound through the aspens past scenic boulders of moderate size. Curiously enough, the trail itself wasn’t particularly rocky.

The day was now sunny and warm. SPHP was shedding layers. Loop soon felt overheated in her fur coat, too, and began pawing SPHP’s legs wanting to stop. Coming to a slab of bedrock in the shade of a spruce tree, a short break was taken. While SPHP finished stripping down to a T-shirt, Lupe had a drink of water, followed up with some Taste of the Wild. SPHP munched on trail mix.

No one had been at the trailhead, and Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since then, either, but soon voices could be heard below. Apparently a nice, sunny day meant company. Setting off again before anyone appeared, Lupe continued up the ridge.

The climb up Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) was straightforward. Beneath a bright blue sky and puffy white clouds, Lupe followed the trail NNW, steadily gaining elevation. Two big knobs were soon visible ahead. As the American Dingo continued higher, Peak 6400+ came into view past the deep valley the creek went up.

The two big knobs come into view. Photo looks NW.

**Peak 6400+** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

Approaching the two knobs. Photo looks NNW.

People were now visible coming up the trail, but Lupe maintained her lead. The first knob turned out to be merely a flatter region wider than the rest of the ridge. Looked like there might be some nice viewpoints overlooking Kusawa Lake off to the E, but the Carolina Dog didn’t check them out. Most of the trail already offered great views of the lake.

Continuing toward the second knob, the trail crossed an unusual region of exposed bedrock before starting to climb more steeply again. By now, blue sky was vanishing, and the breeze suddenly felt colder and stronger with each step. No longer T-shirt weather, SPHP began layering up.

On the exposed bedrock, heading for the second knob. Photo looks NNW.

Approaching the second knob, the terrain got steeper and rockier, Lupe made good progress climbing a grassier slope W of rock formations. It began to look like the American Dingo would reach the top any minute now, but higher ground kept appearing ahead.

Approaching some rock formations. Photo looks NNW.

Climbing the second knob. Photo looks NNW.

By now the trail was only intermittent. There was no top to the second knob. It was all an illusion! Lupe kept climbing from one false summit to the next. Continuing to gain strength, the wind felt colder and colder. Loopster finally reached a flat region. A depression surrounded by tall vegetation appeared to be the dried up remnant of a small tarn.

Although it was tempting to seek shelter from the wind here, Loop kept going, skirting around the E side of the depression without entering it.

Still climbing. Not enjoying the wind. Photo looks NW.

The depression was nearly the end. Climbing the hill beyond it among dark rocks, the terrain then began to flatten out, the rate of climb greatly diminished. Lupe reached a series of minor false summits. A top was now visible ahead. Two of them, actually, but the American Dingo didn’t need to get to HP5949, the much higher and more distant one. She was already nearly to the region considered the high point of Kusawa Ridge.

**HP5929** (L of Center). Area considered the **high point of Kusawa Ridge** directly ahead. Photo looks NNW.

8-16-22, 3:15 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge (5,085 ft.) – The wind was 30-35 mph out of the SW as Lupe reached a cairn. The absolute high point of this region was still a few minutes farther, but the wind was so chilly and annoying, the Carolina Dog didn’t go all the way to it right away.

Instead, after paying the cairn a brief visit, she headed over to the E side of the ridge, descending a little bit to escape the worst of the wind. This was where the best views of Kusawa Lake were, anyway.

By the cairn. **HP5949** (L). Photo looks N.

**Kusawa Lake** from the E edge. Photo looks SSE.

While taking a short break here, a boy or 8 or 9 arrived at the cairn with his father. Spotting Lupe, the boy came running over wanting to pet her, an act of kindness the Carolina Dog was happy to oblige. The boy and his father soon left, though, after a few quick photos. Lupe and SPHP were alone again in the wild breeze beneath a dark sky.

The views were impressive, although perhaps not at their finest on such a gloomy day. Lupe could see the entire 9 mile long N section of Kusawa Lake, all the way S from where the Takhini River left it at the N end clear down to where the lake curved out of sight behind the mountains.

**Takhini River** (L), **N end of Takhini Lake** (R). **Peak 6212** (beyond Lupe) and **Vanier Peak (6,049 ft.)** (R) with **Mount Ingram (7,047 ft.)** in the distance between them. **Peak 6995** (far R). Photo looks NE.

**Kusawa Lake** from the break spot. Photo looks SSE.

Hard to believe we’re only seeing a fraction of the lake from here, SPHP!

True enough, though, Loop! This is only about a third of Kusawa Lake.

Still say we need a water taxi to really explore it then, SPHP.

Would be fun, Loop, but don’t believe there are any water taxis here.

As soon as the short rest break was over, Lupe continued NNW to tag the true summit of Kusawa Ridge.

Looking back at the **first cairn** (Center) before heading off to the true summit. Photo looks SSW.

8-16-22, 3:44 PM, 46ºF, Kusawa Ridge – The true summit proved to be a minor rise of exposed bedrock with a small cairn and other loose rocks on it. A huge, light gray boulder sitting farther N near the E edge bore a cairn, too, and was almost as high. Lupe visited both, requiring a boost from SPHP to get up onto the boulder.

At the **true summit of Kusawa Ridge**. **Boulder** (L). Photo looks NNE.

**Kusawa Lake** from the **true summit**. Photo looks SSE.

On the light gray boulder. **True summit** (R). Photo looks SSE.

The views from the boulder were marvelous, but nearly identical to those at the break spot back near the first big cairn. After spending only a minute or two enjoying them, Lupe leapt down. One more high spot to visit! A short stroll W got her to a slightly elevated region of tundra and scattered rocks. No cairns, but this area was in contention for the title of true summit, too.

At the **NW high point of Kusawa Ridge**. **HP5949** (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

Having little prominence, none of these Kusawa Ridge high points really meant much. Lupe stood on this last one facing W. Across a deep valley, Peak 6400+ was more than 1,300 feet higher than where she was now.

**Peak 6400+** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Not a tree or bush in sight! Peak 6400+ was just a big rounded hill. Lupe surveyed a vast region of open tundra that swept around to it, and even way beyond to other big hills. It was all just the sort of fabulous alpine territory the American Dingo would ordinarily love to explore.

That had been the plan when the day was sunny and warm. Venture on from Kusawa Ridge to the big saddle SW of HP5949, then head up Peak 6400+’s long NW slope clear to the summit. Getting there would be a breeze, and Loopster would have such fun!

A breeze? More like a gale, SPHP! At 30-35 mph down here, no telling what kind of hurricane we’d run into up there! Not doing it! At least, not today! You’ve got a nice, new rain jacket, but what about me? If it starts raining, I’ll be soaked to the skin and freezing cold! Do you want me to catch pneumonia?

The American Dingo was right. Conditions were borderline unpleasant already. Continuing on to Peak 6400+ was asking for trouble. If it did start to rain, misery and hypothermia would almost certainly result. Couldn’t rule it out, either, with the sky the way it was.

Reluctantly, a mere 35 minutes after Lupe reached the first big cairn, SPHP conceded the point. May as well start back.

While still in the high country, SPHP couldn’t help but gaze SW over to the many peaks Lupe might easily explore under better conditions.

Unexplored territory made for adventure! Photo looks SW.

If we ever come back, we could bring the tiny house with us, Looper. A few days worth of supplies, and you could roam for miles!

Keep Peak 6400+ on my list of possibilities, SPHP! Maybe someday we will!

The rather steep descent was easy and went fast, enjoying a fabulous view of Kusawa Lake ahead nearly all the way. Not far from the top, Lupe did check out the depression this time around. It truly did offer some protection from the wind.

Loss of elevation did, too. The sky remained cloudy during the descent, but conditions steadily improved. The wind died down, the air warmed up, and SPHP was shedding layers again.

Back down to a more hospitable clime. Photo looks SSE.

Once off Kusawa Ridge, this time, Lupe managed to follow the correct trail all the rest of the way back to the trailhead. It stayed much closer to the stream than the one erroneously taken on the way up. For a while it ran right along the edge of the steep N bank. Several times SPHP had to grab hold of trees in order to get past sections that had collapsed into stream’s gaping, rocky ravine.

Most of the time, though, the trail stayed a little N of the ravine back in the forest. The route was confusing, braided, and difficult to follow in places, which SPHP found surprising. Looper, on the other paw, loved how it wound around, and often led the way.

Very curious on exactly where this route had been missed on the way up, SPHP was surprised again when Lupe suddenly came to the stone campfire ring in the sandy clearing only a minute from the trailhead. The correct path, which veered toward the L (SW) here on the way in, was unmarked, and not at all obvious. No wonder!

8-16-22, 5:16 PM, 62ºF, Kusawa Ridge trailhead – Perfect timing! Two minutes after Lupe leapt back into the RAV4, it started to sprinkle. SPHP drove N back to the same flat, grassy bluff overlooking Kusawa Lake where she’d spent last night. The wind was blowing this way across the lake again, making heating anything up for dinner a pain.

Back at the grassy bluff overlooking **Kusawa Lake**. Photo looks S.

Want to share a can of salmon, Loop? I don’t have to cook that.

You know I love salmon, SPHP!

Sharing salmon and Ritz crackers, Lupe and SPHP watched a storm move in. Sprinkles gave way to mist. Dusk brought whitecaps as rain swept Kusawa Lake, and a steady patter began on the roof of the RAV4.

Good thing Lupe hadn’t gone on to Peak 6400+, but at least she’d made it to Kusawa Ridge!

On **Kusawa Ridge**, Kluane Plateau, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-16-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure