Cousin Dixie – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and Cousin Dixie had arrived yesterday from Colorado, visiting Hotel Lupe for the first time this year. The excited Carolina Dog knew what that meant – adventure time in the Black Hills! However, on this Friday morning before Memorial Day, the first stop was a sad one, because it was also the first time they’d been here since Grandma died last December. At the Black Hills National Cemetery, Andrea placed a bouquet of red, white, and blue flowers on Grandma and Grandpa’s grave.

The Alkali Creek trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89 was only a mile from the cemetery, and the starting point for one of Uncle Joe’s favorite hikes in the Black Hills. Due to its mix of rolling prairie and Ponderosa pine-covered ridges, it sort of reminded him of the old western show Bonanza, and he always referred to this region as the Ponderosa Hike. Now with Grandma gone, for the first time ever, Aunt Andrea was going to get to experience the Ponderosa Hike along with the rest of the gang.

9:17 AM, Centennial Trail No. 89 at the Alkali Creek trailhead – For late May, it was a cold day. With a stiff N wind blowing, the humans were all bundled up. On the other paw, both Lupe and Dixie seemed to relish the invigorating fresh air. They were raring to go!

**Lupe**, **Andrea**, **Joe**, and **Dixie** at the **Alkali Creek trailhead**. Photo looks NNW.

After crossing Horse Soldier Road, Centennial Trail No. 89 swung around to the E side of the first ridge and headed N. Bear Butte (4,431 ft.) was soon in sight from the top of a small rise. There was a trail junction here. Beyond a gate, Centennial Trail No. 89 went off to the L, heading W for the trees at the base of the ridge.

**Bear Butte** (R) from the first rise. Photo looks N.

After going through the gate, **Centennial Trail No. 89** heads for the base of the ridge. Photo looks W.

Approaching the trees, the trail angled NW, heading toward a region of scrub oaks. Climbing steadily among them, it first wound around to the N before curving back to the S.

After gaining some elevation, the oaks gave out. Continuing higher, the trail now wound through a mostly Ponderosa pine forest. Near the top of the ridge, the forest was quite open. The trail even went through a small meadow.

Passing through a meadow near the top of the ridge. Photo looks NW.

As the terrain began leveling out, a short distance off-trail there was a view of the Black Hills National Cemetery to the S. It was sad to think that both Grandma and Grandpa were down there now. It still almost didn’t seem real.

**Cousin Dixie** at the viewpoint. **Black Hills National Cemetery** (Center) beyond the I-90 interchange. Photo looks S.

Soaring high overhead, the late May sun was warming the day up. Now somewhat sheltered from the wind by the pines, and also warmed by the exertion of the climb, suddenly the humans were all feeling the need to shed some layers.

**Cousin Dixie** looking naturally fabulous during a brief human unbundling break. Photo looks NNE.

From the cemetery viewpoint, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned NNW, now gaining elevation very slowly. Peak 4027, the high point of the entire ridge, was only 1/8 of a mile farther. However, the trail didn’t go quite all the way up to the top, instead leveling out shortly after entering a big meadow where it swung around to the E, avoiding the actual summit.

Entering the **big meadow near Peak 4027**. Photo looks N.

Almost there, and not tagging the summit? That would never do! Lupe and SPHP insisted that everyone just had to make the short off-trail stroll to the top. With minimal extra effort involved, it was an easy sale.

Peak 4027’s summit region was mostly a roomy, flat meadow of tall grass with pines around the edges. There were even a few oaks. Nothing too exciting or special about it, except that Peak 4027 did sport a terrific view of Bear Butte off to the NNE.

**Lupe** and **Andrea** with **Bear Butte** (R) in the background. Photo looks NNE.

**Cousin Dixie** gets in on the action. **Bear Butte** (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Returning to Centennial Trail No. 89, it continued N from Peak 4027 on or near the crest of the ridge, now gradually losing elevation as it went through a mixed pine and scrub oak forest.

Lupe and Dixie lead the way. Photo looks N.

HP3983, the second highest point on this ridge, was 0.5 mile N of Peak 4027. Shortly before getting there, the trail began gaining elevation again as it entered another big meadow. There was a second gate up here, and a little beyond it an old dirt road took off heading NE down into the forest.

Approaching the **HP3983** region. Photo looks N.

**Andrea** and **Dixie** at the **second gate near HP3983** as **Joe** looks on. Photo looks N.

Sticking with Centennial Trail No. 89, it continued N past HP3983, soon dropping into the forest as well. After a dip of 50 feet, the trail regained half of it before starting down again. Another viewpoint was just ahead. From a rock formation with a cliff edge, the town of Sturgis was in sight.

The cliff didn’t faze Lupe at all.

**Sturgis** (Center) from the viewpoint at the N end of the ridge. Photo looks NW.

Joe and Andrea weren’t fazed, either, but they wouldn’t let Dixie get near it. Only a year old, Cousin Dixie was too rambunctious.

**Joe** and **Andrea** join **Lupe** at the **N viewpoint**. Photo looks NW.

From the N viewpoint, Centennial Trail No. 89 began winding down a lower ridge running NE. Before losing too much elevation, an opening in the forest provided a beautiful distant view of the prairie beyond the Black Hills.

The trail eventually wound down into a valley of scrub oaks.

In the **scrub oak valley**. Photo looks E.

After losing all the elevation previously gained, the valley emptied back out onto Horse Soldier Road again. Centennial Trail No. 89 continued NE on the other side. This was the start of the mostly prairie portion of the Ponderosa Hike. In late May, even the prairie was green and lush.

Contemplating the next portion of the Ponderosa Hike from **Horse Soldier Road**. Photo looks NE.

Almost immediately after crossing Horse Soldier Road, Trail No. 10 took off to the L. Lupe and SPHP had been on it before, but no one else had. It wasn’t yet part of the official Ponderosa Hike, although it might be possible to include it as part of a loop. In any case, Andrea still needed to experience the usual route. For now, Trail No. 10 got by-passed.

At the junction with Rough Rider Trail No. 10. Photo looks ENE.

Closeup of the junction signage. Photo looks ENE.

Discovering a tiny stream flowing out of a culvert, Dixie and Lupe had no qualms about helping themselves to a drink, even though the stream was rather mucky.

As Centennial Trail No. 89 headed out onto the prairie, the final ridge of the Ponderosa Hike came into view. Less than 150 high, this ridge wasn’t nearly as big a climb as the Peak 4027 ridge had been.

Heading out onto the prairie. **Final ridge of the Ponderosa Hike** (L). Photo looks NE.

The trail soon wound up to the top of this second ridge. Bear Butte and Fort Meade were both in sight from up here.

Up on the **second ridge**. Fort Meade (L) in the valley, **Bear Butte** (R of Center) beyond **Joe** and **Andrea**. Photo looks NNE.

It had always been a Ponderosa Hike tradition to take a seat in the shade of a few pines, and enjoy a rest break while contemplating these views. However, due to the brisk N wind, which still felt quite cool, the S side of the ridge was more appealing today.

Abandoning the windy N edge, a suitable spot far enough down the S slope to provide some protection from the wind was chosen instead. The humans munched on energy bars and apples. Dixie and Lupe had Taste of the Wild, water, and split a chocolate coconut bar. The panoramic view of rolling green prairie and low forested ridges was very pleasant.

Heading over to the S side of the ridge in search of a more sheltered break spot. **Bear Butte** (L). Photo looks NE.

Near the ultimately selected spot. Photo looks SE.

Although Centennial Trail No. 89 continues N all the way to the top of Bear Butte, this second ridge was the usual endpoint of the Ponderosa Hike. The route taken back to the Alkali Creek trailhead varies, but so far has never involved a complete retracement of the Peak 4027 ridge.

Today, the first part of the return consisted of a simple off-trail romp wandering S through the prairie. Dixie and Lupe had a blast running free, sniffing and exploring along the way. After crossing Horse Soldier Road again, another trail eventually led back to Centennial Trail No. 89 at the first gate.

Roaming free on the way back. Photo looks SSE.

1:00 PM – Once back at the Alkali Creek trailhead, Dixie and Lupe both helped themselves to a drink from Alkali Creek.

Back at **Alkali Creek**. Photo looks SW.

The day was still young! A big success, as usual, the Ponderosa Hike had taken only a few hours. Andrea had survived her initiation with flying colors, yet none of Hotel Lupe’s guests seemed to have any idea what to do next. Maybe it was time to head back to Hotel Lupe?

**Andrea** gloats as an **official survivor of the Ponderosa Hike**.

What, already? Perish the thought! Lupe and SPHP had other ideas … to be continued

Returning to Alkali Creek, the **Ponderosa Hike**, Black Hills of South Dakota 5-24-24

**Uncle Joe’s Ponderosa Hike GPS Track**

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Map & Brochure

Uncle Joe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

9:54 AM, 39ºF, Dalton Lake trailhead – As soon as Joe parked the RAV4 in the enormous otherwise empty parking lot, SPHP gave the order.

OK, get off of me, you two!

Eager to comply, Lupe and Cousin Dixie bounded out, relieving SPHP of a lap full of dogs. A bit cooler today, but still a lovely, unseasonably warm morning. Clearly destined to be a great day for a jaunt along a stretch of scenic Centennial Trail No. 89!

**Joe** and **Lupe** at the **Dalton Lake trailhead**. Photo looks W.

Neither Uncle Joe nor Dixie had ever been to Dalton Lake before. A short walk NW along Centennial Trail No. 89 through the tall grass led to a sturdy pawbridge over Little Elk Creek. Once across it, the trail turned W, leading up to a larger, slightly arched bridge over the spillway where Dalton Lake was in view.

The little lake, scarcely more than a glorified pond, had a thin sheet of ice on it this morning. Despite its small size, both Dalton Lake and the shady campground along its S shore made a favorable impression.

**Joe** and **Dixie** crossing the **bridge over Little Elk Creek**. **Dalton Lake spillway** (L). Photo looks WNW.

**Dalton Lake**. Photo looks SW toward the campground along the S shore.

**Dixie**, **Lupe**, and **Joe** on the **bridge over the spillway**. Photo looks NNW.

**Dalton Lake**, a hidden Black Hills gem. Photo looks W.

**Little Elk Creek** downstream view from the bridge over the spillway. Photo looks ENE.

The N bound stretch of Centennial Trail No. 89 continued W from the spillway, climbing gradually into the forest above the N shore of Dalton Lake. Beyond the lake’s W end, the trail doubled back to the E again, eventually leveling out. By then, Dalton Lake was no longer in view.

Starting up **Centennial Trail No. 89 N of Dalton Lake**. Photo looks WNW.

The relatively flat stretch lasted until the trail made it around the E end of the mountain, where it started climbing NW before circling clear back around to the SE. After yesterday’s Old Bald Peak (6,130 ft.) excursion, Joe’s toes were already feeling a little sore, so it wasn’t clear how far he was going to be able to go today.

The crazy way the trail was winding around, it was almost certain that he wouldn’t get very far as the crow flies. Peak 5173 might be about it.

**Joe** in the lead on the **E side of the mountain N of Dalton Lake**. Photo looks N.

Near the end of the winding climb. Photo looks SE.

The climb SE ended abruptly at the E end of a plateau. Centennial Trail No. 89 turned sharply back to the W here, and soon led to USFS Road No. 704.1B. This level hike was at least somewhat easier on Joe’s paws, so the adventure continued.

On **USFS Road No. 174.1B**. Photo looks NE.

No. 174.1B curved N, then swung back around to the E again, where it began going downhill. However, before long, Centennial Trail No. 89 abandoned the road as a single track again near some huge boulders. It then proceeded to swing around the E end of the next big ridge to the N.

From this region there was kind of a nice, if tree-broken, view looking E down Little Elk Canyon way out onto the western South Dakota prairies beyond the Black Hills.

**Centennial Trail No. 89** close to where it left USFS Road No. 174.1B. Photo looks NE.

A glimpse of the **prairies** (R) beyond **Little Elk Canyon**. Photo looks E.

Beyond this viewpoint, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved WNW, and began climbing at a steady, relatively easy pace for the next 0.5 mile, now on the N side of a forested ridge. Upon reaching a saddle, the trail turned N climbing more steeply for a short distance up onto the next big ridge.

This next ridge was part of Peak 5173. Centennial Trail No. 89 ran NW here above a line of cliffs. After a slower climb, the terrain flattened out near the summit, an unremarkable level region in the forest.

The high point, to the extent that there was one, was somewhat N of the trail. Joe’s toes were saying that this was about far enough today, but it appeared there might be a more scintillating viewpoint a bit farther W.

11:47 AM, 50ºF – Sure enough, a limestone outcropping at the W end of Peak 5173 provided a halfway decent glimpse of the territory off to the W. Custer Peak (6,804 ft.) and Terry Peak (7,064 ft.) were both easily recognizable in the distance. Not a bad spot to take a break, and Joe’s toes weren’t inclined to look around for a better one.

**Custer Peak** (L of Center) from the break spot. Photo looks WNW.

The best view, of course, was from out at the far end of the point. As young as Dixie was, Joe wouldn’t let her go out there, but Lupe went.

**Joe** and **Dixie** sensibly playing it safe back among the trees. Photo looks E.

**Lupe** near the end of the point. Photo looks WNW.

**Custer Peak** (L) and **Terry Peak** (R) with help from the telephoto lens.

**Lupe** up on the limestone outcropping. Photo looks S.

Uncle Joe hadn’t brought his portable ham radio along today, so after a look at the views, everyone just sat down and relaxed. Dixie, Lupe, and SPHP shared a single measly chocolate coconut bar to celebrate Joe’s toes holding up long enough to make it to Peak 5173. Clearly inadequate, the chocolate coconut bar required supplementation with Taste of the Wild for both dogs. Joe and SPHP each had an apple and an energy bar. Water for all, of course.

Somewhere SE, a coyote howled, unusual in the middle of the day. After an otherwise peaceful half hour drifted by, Joe was ready to head back. The day’s Peak 5173 festivities weren’t entirely over yet, though. Making today’s lone claim to a peakbagging success legitimate, while passing the summit region again, Joe and Lupe both selected and stood on what they felt was the highest point.

Final moments at the **viewpoint at the W end of Peak 5173**. Photo looks W.

Joe and Lupe both on **Peak 5173’s true summit** in their own opinions. Photo looks ESE.

All official now, but that still wasn’t it for Peak 5173. Starting back from the true summit in no big rush, there were still some views to be enjoyed from the line of cliffs along the S edge.

On **Centennial Trail No. 89 near the edge of the cliffs**. Photo looks E.

On a limestone platform along the edge. Photo looks WSW.

1:55 PM, Dalton Lake – Half a dozen deer provided a little excitement during the return, but Lupe and Dixie’s adventures in the Black Hills were once again over and done with now. Tomorrow, Joe, Andrea, and Dixie would all be going back home to Colorado again.

The main purpose of the trip had been so that Aunt Andrea could spend some time with Grandma, and this evening Uncle Joe joined her, visiting Grandma at her new assisted living apartment.

It was a good thing that Andrea, Joe, and Dixie had come. 4 days after going to Peak 5173 with Joe and Cousin Dixie, Lupe and SPHP enjoyed a lovely Thanksgiving dinner with Grandma, who was in good spirits and doing very well. Grandma petted Lupe many times, and let the Carolina Dog eat way more than her fair share of turkey and gravy. Delicious!

Sadly, although no one knew it at the time, Grandma didn’t have much longer to live.