Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 281 – Centennial Trail No. 89: The Ponderosa Hike (10-29-21)

10-28-21 – Lupe could hardly believe her big soft Dingo ears!  Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and Cousin Dusty were coming from Colorado.  Not only would they be here tonight, but Lupe had a brand new cousin that was coming with them, too!

When Cousin Laddie gets here, Loop, you’re going to have to be extra nice to him.  Laddie’s had a tough life and might be scared.  He’s a nice dog, a little Sheltie not even as big as you.  So, no growling or rough-housing!  Got that?

Why?  What happened to Cousin Laddie, SPHP?

Oh, I don’t know the whole story, but Laddie’s been at the shelter.  He got adopted, but a few months ago Laddie was grabbed by the neck and torn into by another dog in the same family that adopted him, and was just about done in.  To survive, Laddie needed thousands of dollars worth of surgery.  The fur on his chest is still growing back.  Laddie’s also missing almost all his front teeth, which were rotten and had to be pulled back when he first got to the shelter.

No teeth?  My poor cousin!  His bark must be worse than his bite!

Probably right about that, Loop, but he still has his back teeth.

How come you’ve never mentioned Cousin Laddie before, SPHP?

Because he’s a brand new cousin.  He just joined the family when Aunt Andrea and Uncle Joe agreed to adopt him, since he couldn’t stay with the same family any longer after being attacked.  In fact, Laddie is his new name.  He used to be called Danny Boy.

It was all true!  Later that evening Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and Cousins Dusty and Laddie did arrive.  Loopster raced around barking for joy, wild with delight!  Extremely curious about Cousin Laddie, she sniffed and sniffed.  SPHP hadn’t said anything about sniffing.  Lupe sniffed so much that Laddie maybe did get a little scared, but nothing bad happened.

The amazing thing about Cousin Laddie was that he was almost the same color as Lupe.  Laddie’s fur was a lot longer, though, except on his chest where it had been cut.  Laddie did have one front tooth, an upper canine on the L side.  That lone tooth gave Laddie sort of a crooked smile.  SPHP later said that Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea should have named him Snaggle Fang.

10-29-21, Centennial Trail No. 89, Alkali Creek trailhead – Everyone was excited!  Cousin Laddie was about to get his first introduction to the Black Hills.  Cousin Dusty was 15 now, so the hike had to be a relatively easy one.  The stretch of Centennial Trail No. 89 N of the Alkali Creek trailhead to a ridge overlooking the old 7th cavalry post at Fort Meade was one of Uncle Joe’s favorites, and would do nicely.  He always called it the Ponderosa hike.

The whole pack at the start of Uncle Joe’s “Ponderosa Hike” along Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks NE.
Off to a good start, looking back toward the Alkali Creek trailhead. Photo looks SSW.

The first part of the trail was an easy stroll through the grasslands.  Soon Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) was coming into view.  At the top of a rise, the trail diverged by a gate in a barbed wire fence.  Centennial Trail No. 89 went L here, heading W for a forested ridge.

At the gate where Centennial Trail No. 89 turns W (L) to go up onto the forested ridge. Bear Butte (R) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.
Bear Butte. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.
About to head up the ridge. Photo looks W.

Upon entering the forest at the base of the ridge, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued W, working steadily higher on a winding course.  At nearly the end of October, autumn leaves still clinging to the scrub oaks were well past their scenic best, but did add splashes of color.  Cousin Dusty, a veteran of many prior adventures in the Black Hills, was doing great!  She often took turns leading the way with Lupe.

Still unaccustomed to the Black Hills and his new life, Cousin Laddie was happiest sticking close to Uncle Joe.

Loop and Dusty, together again in the Black Hills!
Loopster in the lead.
Getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Centennial Trail No. 89 reached the top of the ridge at its far S end.  Here the trail leveled out.  Peak 4027, true summit of the entire mile long ridge, was only a little farther N.  The trail went practically right to it, but never did go quite all the way to the top, sweeping around the hillside E of the summit instead.

Naturally, being this close, Lupe had to tag the high point!  The Carolina Dog left Centennial Trail No. 89, venturing up to the summit.  Everyone else followed as a matter of course.

It took only a couple of minutes to reach the top, a big, flat, grassy field ringed by Ponderosa pines in most directions.  Lupe, SPHP, Cousin Dusty, and Uncle Joe had all been here before, but this was Cousin Laddie’s first Black Hills peakbagging success.  Peak 4027 was super easy, but Laddie seemed happy enough with it.

The whole pack up on Peak 4027. Photo looks NNW.
Lupe and Uncle Joe.

A short break was taken up on Peak 4027.  Although trees blocked the views in most directions, Bear Butte and the prairies E of the Black Hills were on display.  SPHP had brought apples and chocolate coconut bars.  Uncle Joe shared Kirkland bars.  All of the dogs enjoyed some chocolate coconut bar, and Cousin Dusty even wanted the apple cores.  Water was available, too.

Cousin Dusty looking good at 15 on Peak 4027.
Dusty asking Uncle Joe if it’s alright to have some chocolate coconut bar?
In the sunshine back on good ole Peak 4027.
Bear Butte (Center) from Peak 4027. Photo looks NNE.

When all the goodies were gone, it was time to continue on.  From Peak 4027, Centennial Trail No. 89 ran another 0.75 mile all the way to the far N end of the ridge.  Most of this route was forested, but there was a big clearing approaching HP3983, and a little past HP3983 was a viewpoint off to the L (W) overlooking I-90.

Laddie N of Peak 4027 hitting Centennial Trail No. 89 again.
Uncle Joe and the pack in the meadow approaching HP3983. Photo looks N.
At the viewpoint N of HP3893 overlooking I-90 (R). Photo looks SSW.

At the N end of the ridge was another viewpoint overlooking the town of Sturgis.  Oyster Mountain (4,040 ft.), Sly Hill (3,920 ft.), and Peak 3950 were all in sight, too.

At the N end of the ridge. Oyster Mountain (Center), Sly Hill (R) and Peak 39050 (far R). Photo looks NW.

From the Sturgis viewpoint, the trail began descending NE.  Halfway down the mountain it curved back into a valley to the S, then turned NE again upon reaching the valley floor.  Scrub oaks were the most scenic feature of this trek, especially lower down where, protected from the wind, they still had quite a few leaves.

Heading down the N end of the ridge.
Cousin Dusty amid the scrub oaks as she enters the valley.

The valley of the scrub oaks eventually led clear down to Old Stone Road.  Centennial Trail No. 89 crossed the road, entering a larger, flatter drainage which continued NE out toward the prairie.  The trail soon curved E, but everyone abandoned it to take a shortcut up a grassy slope onto the ridge to the N.

Near the start of the wider drainage after crossing Old Stone Road. Photo looks NE.
Approaching the prairie. Centennial Trail No. 89 curves E (R) beyond the magnificent tree, but everyone left the trail here to go N (L) up onto the ridge. Photo looks NE.
Joe, Laddie and Dusty getting close to the top. Photo looks NW.

Overlooking both Fort Meade and Bear Butte (4,422 ft.), the top of this ridge was the traditional end of the “Ponderosa Hike”.

Fort Meade (L) and Bear Butte (R) from the end of Uncle Joe’s traditional “Ponderosa Hike”. Photo looks NNE.

Hardly a cloud in the sky, and incredibly warm for practically the end of October!  A little farther W along the ridge, everyone hid out from the sun in the shade of a few large pine trees enjoying a second rest break.  More bars, more apples, more water!

Relaxing in the shade at the end of the Ponderosa hike. Photo looks SW.
New cousin Laddie taking it easy on his first ever Black Hills expedition.

When the time came to start back, there was some discussion of possibly exploring farther W first.  In the end, though, the whole pack headed right back down the grassy ridge’s S slope.

Ready to start back to the trailhead. Photo looks WSW.
Final moments on the grassy ridge. Photo looks S.

Rejoining Centennial Trail No. 89 down in the wide drainage, the pack followed it SW only a short distance.  Before reaching Old Stone Road, it was decided not to return via the ridge leading to Peak 4027.  Instead, a different trail was taken that went S down on the rolling prairie.

Briefly back on Centennial Trail No. 89 again S of the grassy ridge. Photo looks SW.
Lupe and Cousin Dusty out on the prairie. Photo looks SSW.
Still more than a mile from the Alkali Creek trailhead. Photo looks SSW.

Near the end, Centennial Trail No. 89 was eventually rejoined at the gate where it turned W going up to the forested ridge and Peak 4027.  Getting just plain hot out!  The sun was a beast with the temperature soaring into the mid 70’s ºF.  In their fur coats, Lupe, Dusty and Laddie were all panting, tongues hanging out on the final stretch.

Arrival back at the Alkali Creek trailhead was promptly celebrated with a much anticipated cold drink out of Alkali Creek.  Lupe and Laddie both eagerly waded in and drank their fill, but Dusty wasn’t satisfied with just getting her paws and insides wet.  Instead, she plunked herself right down in the stream and stayed there.

Relief from the heat at Alkali Creek.
Cousin Dusty cooling off in Alkali Creek.

No one was going anywhere, and Black Hills Expedition No. 281 wasn’t finished, until Cousin Dusty was ready to declare it over and done with.  Taking her sweet time about it, Dusty finally got sufficiently cooled down to come dripping out of Alkali Creek.

A little under 4 hours round trip on a summery October afternoon, the Ponderosa hike had been a great choice!  Easy enough for Dusty, and a gentle introduction to Black Hills peakbagging for Laddie, the day had been a success.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                     Prior Black Hills Expedition

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 241 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Alkali Creek to Fort Meade (12-10-18)

10:11 AM, 35°F – Gates close at dusk?  Ridiculous!  That’s what the sign said, though.  The Alkali Creek trailhead for Centennial Trail No. 89 was huge and totally empty, but days are really short in December.  SPHP wasn’t at all certain Lupe would be back before dusk, rendering the trailhead useless.

SPHP found a place to park along Horse Soldier Road.  Lupe trotted back to the trailhead.  Alkali Creek was the official starting point for today’s Black Hills expedition.  Lupe was going to explore Centennial Trail No. 89 all the way N to the Fort Meade trailhead.  At only 4.0 miles one way, this is one of the shortest segments between trailheads of the entire 111 mile long Centennial Trail.

Gates close at dusk? Lupe near the entrance to the useless Alkali Creek trailhead. She might or might not be back by dusk! Photo looks E.
Loop at the official starting point for Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 241. Photo looks NW.

Lupe was anxious to get going!  SPHP took only a quick peek at the posted trail map.  It showed a surprisingly complex trail system in the area.  Loop had no patience for it.  Leaving the trailhead, the Carolina Dog crossed Horse Soldier Road.  She picked up Centennial Trail No. 89 in a field on the other side.

Loop gets underway N of the Alkali Creek trailhead. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe sniffed along, the trail gradually curved N.  Soon Bear Butte came into view.  The summit of Bear Butte (4,422 ft.) is the official N end of Centennial Trail No. 89.  Lupe wasn’t going that far today.

Bear Butte (L) starts coming into view as the trail curves N. Photo looks NNE.

0.33 mile from the trailhead, Looper reached a junction at the top of a small rise.  Centennial Trail No. 89 went W (L) here passing through a barbed wire fence.  The other trail continued N through a long field.

Centennial Trail No. 89 goes W (L) here. Another route continues N through the long field seen ahead. Photo looks N.
From this gate Centennial Trail No. 89 heads W into the forest. Photo looks W.

Beyond the fence, Centennial Trail No. 89 headed W toward a forested ridge Lupe had seen from the trailhead.  Before reaching the trees, the Carolina Dog paused for the best view of Bear Butte yet.

Bear Butte. Photo looks NNE with help from the telephoto lens.

Once in the forest, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound NW up the E side of the ridge.  The steepest part came near the beginning.  Even here, the trail wasn’t bad at all.  Lupe climbed through a forest of scrub oak and Ponderosa pines.

Loop rounds a bend early on the way up the ridge. Photo looks SE.
Even along the steepest part of the ridge, the trail was quite easy. Photo looks N.
Lupe had a good view from this rock. Photo looks SE.
Heading W up a minor ravine.

Higher up, the slope of the terrain was more gradual.  The trail trended SW for a while.

Higher up the terrain sloped more gradually. Photo looks SW.
Getting close to the top of the ridge. Photo looks SW.

The ridge the trail was climbing is 0.75 mile long N/S.  The W face of the ridge is much steeper than the E slope.  Nearing the top of the ridge line, Centennial Trail No. 89 brought Loop very close to the S end of the ridge.  Naturally, she stopped to check out the view.  To the S, she could see I-90 and the Black Hills National Cemetery.

Loop at the S end of the ridgeline. Photo looks S.
Looking S along I-90 with help from the telephoto lens.
Zoomed in on part of the Black Hills National Cemetery.

Peak 4027 is the high point of the entire ridge Lupe was on.  It was only 200 yards N of the extreme S end.  Centennial Trail No. 89 headed right for it.  The summit proved to be spacious and gently rounded.  Flanked by pines to the W and N, the whole area was grassy and open.

Approaching Peak 4027, summit of the entire ridge Lupe had climbed. Photo looks N.

Centennial Trail No. 89 didn’t go quite all the way up Peak 4027.  Instead it swept around the E side of the spacious summit.  Lupe had a great view of the prairies of western South Dakota.

Looking E over the prairies from Peak 4027.

Loopster wasn’t about to bypass the true summit of Peak 4027!  She left Centennial Trail No. 89 to tramp through the snow looking for it.  There wasn’t any definite absolute high point, but she explored enough ground to be satisfied with her ascent.

On Peak 4027. This high ground near a small stand of big pines seemed to be the true summit as far as it could be determined. Photo looks NE.

The scenic highlight from Peak 4027 was Bear Butte rising dramatically like a miniature volcano from the surrounding prairie.  Trees blocked any views of the main body of the Black Hills to the W.

Bear Butte is the scenic highlight from Peak 4027. Lupe is standing on a stump. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe returned to Centennial Trail No. 89.  The trail continued N along Peak 4027’s long N ridge.  Most of the ridge was forested.  What it lacked in views, it made up in squirrels.  Looper had a grand time barking and searching for them.

Back on Centennial Trail No. 89, still close to Peak 4027. Photo looks NW.
Forest hid the views, but provided a home for squirrels and deer as Lupe continued N. Photo looks N.

Nearly 0.5 mile N of Peak 4027, Lupe came to another grassy area.  She was approaching High Point 3983 on the topo map.

Approaching High Point 3983. Photo looks N.

At High Point 3983 Lupe reached a fork in the trail.  A large post stood next to the fork.  Centennial Trail No. 89 stayed to the L.

Lupe at the fork in the trail near High Point 3983. Centennial Trail No. 89 continues N passing L of the high ground. Photo looks N.

Beyond High Point 3983 the trail went NNW still following the ridgeline.

Back in the forest NNW of High Point 3983. Photo looks N.

0.25 mile from High Point 3983, Lupe finally reached the N end of the ridge.  From rock outcroppings along the edge, the Carolina Dog could see Sturgis, SD to the NW.  Peak 3950 and Crook Mountain (4,930 ft.) were in view, too.

At the N end of the 0.75 mile long ridge. Peak 3950 (Center) is the hill beyond Lupe. Photo looks NNW.
Sturgis, SD from the N end of the ridge. Crook Mountain is in the distance on the L. Photo looks NW.

Leaving the mountain’s main ridgeline, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a long gradual descent.  After a switchback or two, Lupe found herself traveling NNE.

On the descent. Photo looks NE.

The trail curled clear around to the SW as it entered a large draw.

Lupe spots a squirrel as Centennial Trail No. 89 enters a large draw. Photo looks SW.

The draw drained NE.  The trail turned NE again, too.  More snow was down here.  The draw brought Lupe back to Horse Soldier Road.

Down in the snowy draw. Photo looks ENE.
Lupe reaches Horse Soldier Road again. Photo looks NE.

Centennial Trail No. 89 crossed Horse Soldier Road, but where it went on the other side wasn’t completely clear.  Lupe searched for a marker.  She found an icy pond off to the NW, but no markers.  SPHP finally realized the correct route was the obvious one.  Lupe followed a frozen road NE.

Heading NE after crossing Horse Soldier Road.

Having crossed Horse Soldier Road, the first part of Lupe’s journey to the Fort Meade trailhead was over.  Until now, she had been up in the forest on the long ridge that was all part of Peak 4027.  The remaining trek was lower territory.  The trail was about to make several forays E toward the prairie, each time turning W again to re-enter the forest.

Following the frozen road, the American Dingo headed NE out into the grasslands.  Centennial Trail No. 89 left the road near the end of a bare ridge, and climbed up onto it.  Although this ridge was much lower than the forested ridge where Peak 4027 and High Point 3963 were, Loopster enjoyed unbroken panoramas.

Going up the first low ridge. The much higher forested ridge Lupe had just left is in the background. Photo looks SW.
Bear Butte from the first low ridge. Photo looks NNE.
View to the SE.
Looking back. The Alkali Creek trailhead (Center) is way over at the base of the forested hills beyond the snowy grasslands. Photo looks S.

Fort Meade was already in sight only 0.5 mile to the N.  The way the trail was going to wind around, Lupe still had a lot farther than that to go to get to the Fort Meade trailhead.

There’s Fort Meade! Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

Now that Lupe was up on the ridge, the trail turned back to the WSW.

Having made it up onto the ridge, the trail heads back toward the Black Hills. Photo looks WSW.

The single track became a dirt road as Lupe drew near the forest again.  For at least a little way, this was still Centennial Trail No. 89.  However, when no more markers appeared, SPHP began to suspect the trail had disappeared somewhere into the forest on the N side of the ridge.

As Lupe got close to the forest again, the single track was evolving into a dirt road. Photo looks W.
For at least some distance, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed the road. Photo looks W.

Lupe wasn’t far from Horse Soldier Road again when she spotted some still green pine slash snaking through the grass N of the snowy road.  Upon inspection, it was evident this slash had been deliberately placed on a trail.  Maybe Centennial Trail No. 89 had been re-routed?  Perhaps this was an officially discouraged shortcut?

See the green slash? Maybe this is the way back to Centennial Trail No. 89? Photo looks N.

Lupe and SPHP followed the slash N down a snowy slope.  Before long the slash led to another trail that was unobstructed.  Continuing N, Lupe spotted a Centennial Trail No. 89 marker on a tree.  Exactly where she’d lost the trail in the first place still wasn’t clear, but at least she was back on it again.

Back on Centennial Trail No. 89 again! See the marker on the tree on the L? Photo looks N.

The single track went virtually all the way back to Horse Soldier Road, but did not connect to it.  Instead, right next to the road and a bit below it, the trail skirted around the W end of a forested ravine.

Heading NW on the S side of a ravine.

Once N of the ravine, the trail turned E again.  Lupe was on the side of a fairly steep slope.

On the N side of the ravine now. Photo looks W.

The trail left the ravine going N along the E side of a hill.  Lupe could see white headstones.  Fort Meade National Cemetery was up on the hill.  This small cemetery was established in 1878 by surviving members of General Custer’s 7th cavalry.

Fort Meade National Cemetery came into view. Photo looks NW.

After skirting the E and N sides of the cemetery, Centennial Trail No. 89 went around the W end of a much larger ravine.  Again the trail turned NE following another ridge out toward the prairie.

Heading for the next ridge N of the cemetery. Photo looks N.
Looking ENE along the ridge N of Fort Meade National Cemetery.

The trail went partway down the NE end of the ridge.  Lupe enjoyed some nice views along in here.

Nearing the E end of the last ridge. Photo looks ENE.

Once more, the trail looped back around to the W and returned to the forest.  Lupe climbed a little, then descended into a valley filled with snow.  All these winding loops the trail had made had chewed up a lot of time.  Never high in December, the sun was sinking toward the horizon.

The sun was already sinking when Lupe reached this snowy valley. Photo looks SW.

The valley floor was flat and fairly wide.  A private home sat a little N of the trail.  As Lupe went past it, the trail turned SW.  There were tons of footprints in the snow, but Loop hadn’t seen anyone all day.

The far SW end of the valley was narrower.  An odd stone building stood near the trail.  Beyond it, Lupe could see Horse Soldier Road again.  She dropped by the building to sniff around a bit, but discovered nothing of interest.  The building looked like it had been abandoned for a long time.

Approaching the stone building. Photo looks W.
Checking out the strange stone building.

The Carolina Dog pressed on.  The trail headed N climbing a small hill.  Lupe reached a minor pass.  At the end of a short spur trail sat another oddity – a large stone fireplace.

This stone fireplace stood at the end of a short spur trail. Photo looks N.

A wooden fence enclosed the ground around the fireplace.  No signs or plaques explained how or why the fireplace came to be here.  Lupe left it just as mystified as she’d arrived.

Beyond the minor pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 made a long sweeping curve SW down into a snowy field.  By the time the trail straightened out again, Looper was heading N.  This was the final stretch.  The Fort Meade trailhead was just ahead.

On the big curve leading to the final stretch. Photo looks NW.
Almost there! Bear Butte (R) comes into view again. Photo looks NNE.
Made it! Looper stands at the entrance to the Fort Meade trailhead. Photo looks N.
At the information display. Photo looks W.

Lupe had made it!  She had traveled the entire length of Centennial Trail No. 89 between the Alkali Creek and Fort Meade trailheads.  It had been a pleasant, mostly easy trek offering a variety of terrain, scenes, and complete solitude.

SPHP had hoped Lupe would have time to climb Peak 3950 on the way back to the G6, but the sun was already way too low for that.  Even just retracing her entire route would take longer than desired.  Time for a shortcut!  Lupe and SPHP left the Fort Meade trailhead heading S on Horse Soldier Road.

The road was icy.  After getting past the Fort Meade National Cemetery, a trail left the road heading S.  A post said this was Trail No. 10.  The trail looked like a shortcut that might lead down to the icy pond Lupe had seen earlier.  Why not explore it?

About to leave Horse Soldier Road to venture down Trail No. 10. The end of Peak 4027’s long N ridge is seen on the R. Photo looks S.

Trail No. 10 went E along a steep slope with southern exposure.  Sure enough, after 0.5 mile the American Dingo came to the frozen pond.

Looking down on the frozen pond from Trail No. 10. Photo looks SE.
By the frozen pond. Photo looks SW.

Horse Soldier Road and Centennial Trail No. 89 were close to the pond.  Lupe crossed the road.  Enough daylight remained to retrace the rest of the trail.  Lupe completed a second ascent of Peak 4027 before dark.

Bear Butte from the same stump on Peak 4027 that Lupe had been on before. Photo looks NNE.

Light was fading by the time Lupe made it down off Peak 4027.  It was dusk when she went past the Alkali Creek trailhead.

Gates still open!  Could have parked there!  Oh, well.  A cold N breeze blew as Lupe and SPHP trudged along Horse Creek Road in silence.  Didn’t matter.  Not much farther to the G6 anyway.  (4:49 PM, 33°F)

Bear Butte from Centennial Trail No. 89, 12-10-18

Notes – Horse Soldier Road goes from I-90 Exit 34 near the Alkali Creek trailhead to Hwy 34/79 a mile E of Sturgis near the Fort Meade trailhead.  This road is also known as the National Back Country Byway or Cemetery Drive (N part) or Old Stone Road (S part).

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                  Prior Black Hills Expedition

Next Trail Section North:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 149 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Fort Meade to Bear Butte Lake (12-19-15)

Next Trail Section South:

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 274 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Elk Creek to Alkali Creek (4-10-21)

Centennial Trail Map & Brochure

Fort Meade Recreation Area

Bear Butte State Park

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!