Start: 9:09 AM, 58°F, Spring Creek trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89
Lupe was back! For the second week in a row, she was starting her day’s adventures at the Spring Creek trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89. Last week she had gone all the way N to Twin Sisters (5,244 ft.) and the Brush Creek trailhead. This time around, she was going to explore Centennial Trail No. 89 all the way S to the Samelius Peak trailhead.
Like last week, the first order of business was to follow the spur trail from the trailhead up Spring Creek. The spur trail would join the main trail at the Sheridan Lake dam. The Carolina Dog didn’t mind repeating this easy, scenic stroll at all.
Starting up the spur trail along Spring Creek.Spring Creek canyon on the way to Sheridan Lake.
Shortly after crossing the first of three beam bridges over Spring Creek, Lupe heard a rush of water over and above the usual noise made by the creek. She soon came to the source of this noise. A tremendous waterfall was sending a spray of water not only down into Spring Creek, but even raining down upon the opposite shore.
A tremendous waterfall was raining down not only upon Spring Creek, but completely over it! Only a week ago, this waterfall hadn’t even been here.
Lupe had been on this spur trail lots of times. No waterfall had ever been here before! Only a week ago, it hadn’t been here, either. How strange! Loop went closer to investigate.
Hmm. This wasn’t a real waterfall, at least not a natural one. Water was shooting out of the side of the canyon from halfway below the ridgeline above. Must be a pipe or some other man made source up there.
A horizontal waterfall! Now that’s something you don’t see everyday!
The horizontal waterfall made quite an impression. Lupe liked cooling off in its spray. Once she was cool and wet enough, she continued up the spur trail.
Crossing the 2nd beam bridge over Spring Creek.Continuing up the canyon. The trail is nearly level almost all the way to Sheridan Lake.Crossing the 3rd and final beam bridge. Part of the Sheridan Lake dam is now in view ahead. Photo looks WNW.
The spur trail joins the main Centennial Trail No. 89 at the S end of the Sheridan Lake dam. Last week Lupe had gone N across the dam. This time she didn’t. Instead, she left the dam going W across a brushy area, part of the seldom needed lake overflow channel. She quickly reached the S shore of Sheridan Lake.
On the S shore at the far E end of Sheridan Lake. The rounded hill at Center beyond the lake is Clark Mountain(5,267 ft.).Looking back at Sheridan Lake dam. Photo looks NE.
A sign about Sheridan Lake was nearby. The sign mentioned the trail system and showed a map of Flume Trail No. 50. Centennial Trail No. 89 and Flume Trail No. 50 are the same trail along the SE shore of Sheridan Lake, but they split here near the dam. Centennial Trail No. 89 continues N across the dam, but Flume Trail No. 50 goes E.
This sign about Sheridan Lake is posted near the divergence of Centennial Trail No. 89 and Flume Trail No. 50.
Lupe followed the dual Centennial/Flume trail SW along the SE shore of Sheridan Lake. The ground right along the shoreline was fairly steep. The nearly level trail stayed 30 to 40 feet above the lake. A Ponderosa pine forest permitted only tree broken views.
The joint Centennial/Flume trail stays 30 or 40 feet above the SE shore of Sheridan Lake. Photo looks SW.
0.5 mile from the dam, Lupe was getting close to Blue Wing, a residential resort community where the Flume Trail begins. The lakeshore wasn’t as steep here, so she went down to take a look at the Blue Wing inlet. The lake was smooth as glass. A red-wing blackbird was singing from a perch on a cattail. Shouldn’t it have been a blue-wing blackbird?
Lupe visits the Blue Wing inlet of Sheridan Lake. Photo looks NNW.
A footbridge led across an orange creek into the resort community of Blue Wing. The Flume trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89 was close by. This was the W end of Flume Trail No. 50.
A footbridge leads across an orange creek as Lupe reaches the resort community of Blue Wing. This is the W end of Flume Trail No. 50.
Centennial Trail No. 89 skirted the N end of Blue Wing on a curving stretch of paved road. After only a few hundred feet, the trail left the road heading W into open forest. It soon turned S. Looper was gaining elevation steadily now. The trail began passing small rock formations.
SW of Blue Wing, Lupe reaches small rock formations along Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks S.
0.5 mile from Sheridan Lake, Centennial Trail No. 89 crossed a gravel road. The trail now began to steepen. Switchbacks appeared. Lupe started getting glimpses of Sheridan Lake again.
After gaining several hundred feet of elevation, the trail turned W. It passed just S of a couple of big rock formations N of High Point 5412. Lupe left the trail to climb up onto the lowest one. Part of Sheridan Lake was in view a mile away. (topo map)
On the lower of two big rock formations N of the trail. The higher one is on the L. Part of Sheridan Lake is in view. Photo looks N.
Lupe didn’t bother climbing the highest of the two rock formations. It wasn’t until the Carolina dog returned to the trail and went a bit further that she saw that the higher rock formation was already occupied! Way up near the top, a couple of turkey buzzards sat surveying the scene.
Turkey buzzards were already in possession of the rock formation Lupe hadn’t climbed.
Continuing on, Centennial Trail No. 89 went down a few switchbacks and crossed a saddle leading toward High Point 5624. The trail then turned SSW passing E of High Point 5624. Here the trail bounced up and down along the mountainside. Lupe kept gaining elevation only to lose it again. Forest permitted only tree broken views of Calumet Ridge(5,601 ft.) to the ENE, and Mount Warner(5,889 ft.) to the S.
Beyond High Point 5624, Centennial Trail No. 89 left the pine forest. Lupe descended into a valley of aspens and open ground.
Lupe reaches the valley S of High Point 5624. Photo looks SW.
The trail began following a grassy abandoned road which went W up the valley. Lupe ended up back in the pine forest on a saddle at the top of a ridge. For the first time, she had tree broken views of distant ridges and mountains to the SW.
The American Dingo had reached the main ridgeline leading to Mount Warner. For the next 0.75 mile, Centennial Trail No. 89 stayed high on the ridge climbing steadily SSW toward the summit. At the top of the mountain, the trail passed 50 feet N of the true summit.
Light rain showers were sweeping in out of the N when Lupe reached the highest rocks on Mount Warner(5,889 ft.).
At the summit of Mount Warner 50 feet S of Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks W.Rain showers were sprinkling Mount Warner when Lupe arrived. Photo looks ENE.On the highest rock.
Lupe and SPHP took shelter from the rain along the S side of a line of rocks at the summit. Time for a break, anyway! Lupe wasn’t hungry yet, but she was ready for water. SPHP had an apple. Half an hour went by simply relaxing. The rain showers moved on and the sun came out.
Trees hid the views from Mount Warner in most directions. From down the S slope a little way, Lupe was able to get a fairly good look at both Samelius Peak(5,856 ft.) and more distant Black Elk Peak(7,231 ft.).
Samelius Peak (L) and Black Elk Peak (Center) from Mount Warner. Photo looks SW.
Lupe still had a lot of exploring to do. She returned to Centennial Trail No. 89, which now lost elevation heading SE. The trail quickly brought her to a rock shelf providing a less obstructed view of Samelius Peak.
Yes, there it is, Samelius Peak!
From the rock shelf, Centennial Trail No. 89 began curving E. Loopster entered a more level area where the forest was full of deadfall timber. Pine bark beetles had taken a heavy toll here. This stretch wasn’t long, however. Soon the forest was looking better again. Lupe briefly went to check out the views from a rock outcropping 100 feet N of the trail.
Hey! Guess what? I can still see a tiny piece of Sheridan Lake from here! Photo looks N.
The view to the N wasn’t bad. Lupe could still see a sliver of Sheridan Lake, but this was the last time she would see it. Lupe returned to the trail. It went E a little way, then turned N losing elevation more rapidly again. The terrain leveled out at a saddle between Mount Warner and High Point 5636.
At the broad saddle between Mount Warner and High Point 5636. Photo looks SE.
From the saddle, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SE and proceeded clear around the SE end of Mount Warner. At first, Lupe was losing elevation at an easy pace. Later on the trail wound along the mountainside going both up and down with little net elevation change.
Going around the SE end of Mount Warner. Photo looks SSE.
Once around the end of the mountain, Centennial No. 89 turned NW and began climbing toward the still unseen saddle between Mount Warner and Samelius Peak. Another 1.5 miles on the trail would bring Lupe to the Samelius Peak trailhead.
However, Lupe had been on this part of the trail before. Maybe it was time for something a little different? A bit of peakbagging was in order! Lupe and SPHP left Centennial Trail No. 89 heading SE down a valley. After wandering for 0.25 mile, Loopster turned SW and began climbing. Another 0.25 mile brought her to the saddle between Hardesty Peak(5,562 ft.) and Samelius Peak(5,856 ft.).
Off trail in the saddle between Hardesty Peak & Samelius Peak. Photo looks WSW.
Lupe paused in the saddle for another water break, but was soon on her way up the NNW slope of Hardesty Peak. The climb from the saddle was steep, but involved only 200 feet of elevation gain. Loop went up near the E edge of a boulder field. Before long, she was on Hardesty Peak’s E/W running summit ridge.
The true summit was only a little E of where Lupe came up. Although forest hid the views in almost every direction, both Samelius Peak and Mount Warner could be seen from here.
At the true summit of Hardesty Peak. Mount Warner is on the L. Photo looks NE.Oh, we’ve come a way from Mount Warner (Center), SPHP! Samelius Peak (L) is close by, though. Are we going there next? Photo looks N.Samelius Peak from Hardesty Peak. Photo looks NW.
Time was marching on. Lupe needed to as well. Nearby Samelius Peak was her last peakbagging destination for the day. The American Dingo went back down to the saddle leading to Samelius Peak the same way she had come up.
On the way back down to the saddle leading to Samelius Peak (R) Lupe stayed R (E) of this boulder field. Photo looks NW.
The climb up Samelius Peak was longer than going up Hardesty Peak had been. Lupe gained more than 500 feet of elevation following a SE ridge to a S ridge, which led to the summit. Close to the summit were a few minor high points and saddles, but nothing posed any real difficulty along the way.
The weather had changed again, however, by the time Lupe reached the top. Rain showers were passing through once more. Loop discovered a crude Dingo shelter at the top of Samelius Peak. Unfortunately, it was so primitive it really didn’t provide any protection from the rain.
At the summit of Samelius Peak. Rain showers are sweeping through once more. The lower hill at Center is Humbolt Mountain(5,722 ft.). Storm Hill(5,656 ft.) is on the L. Photo looks WNW.
Lupe discovers a crude Dingo shelter at the top of Samelius Peak.Would you mind calling a roofing contractor, SPHP? This really isn’t much help.
The Dingo shelter didn’t amount to much, but oh well. Lupe decided she was hungry! As rain sprinkled down, she devoured all of her Taste of the Wild. SPHP ate the last apple. After a while, the rain diminished as the showers moved off.
Although the top of Samelius Peak was forested, there were more openings between the trees here where Lupe could see the views than either Mount Warner or Hardesty Peak had provided.
Black Elk Peak(7,231 ft.) from Samelius Peak. Photo looks SW.Black Elk Peak with help from the telephoto lens.Loop on Samelius Peak’s highest rock. Humbolt Mountain is beyond her on the L. Five Points(6,221 ft.) is on the R. Photo looks NW.Custer Peak(6,804 ft.) is the distant pointy peak on the L. New Year’s Eve Peak(6,046 ft.) is the highest point on the R. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
After 45 minutes at the top of Samelius Peak, Lupe was ready to move on. She had a last look around the summit area, then headed down the mountain.
The Samelius Peak trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89 was only 0.4 mile away to the SW. Lupe headed WSW to intercept the trail only a little N of the trailhead. For a long way, this route was quite steep, but it finally started leveling out to some degree. Lupe soon intercepted Centennial Trail No. 89 as expected.
Samelius Peak summit area. Photo looks NE.Samelius Peak summit again. This time looking SW.Starting down the mountain. Photo looks E back up toward the summit.Back on Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks SW.
The Samelius Peak trailhead wasn’t far from here. Even though it was the wrong direction considering the time of day, Lupe went all the way to it.
Climbed 3 mountains and made it all the way to the Samelius Peak trailhead. Pretty good, huh?Centennial Trail map. As the trail goes, it’s 8 miles one way between the Spring Creek & Samelius Peak trailheads.
It was evening. No time to dilly dally here at the trailhead. The sun would still be up for at least an hour, maybe close to two. However, Lupe faced an 8 mile long return to the Spring Creek trailhead. Somewhere along the way, it was going to get dark.
Almost as soon as she reached the Samelius Peak trailhead, Lupe started back. This time she would take Centennial Trail No. 89 the whole way.
Oh, a long beautiful evening stroll ahead. Maybe we’ll see some deers?
The sun was still up, but on the horizon when Lupe reached the summit of Mount Warner for the second time. She no more than tagged the true summit before hurrying on. Sunlight disappeared from the mountains. Dusk, then darkness. The flashlight came out before Loop reached Blue Wing. No moon, but the sky was clear and the stars were brilliant.
A black night, but reflections of starlight sparkled in Sheridan Lake as Lupe trotted by well above the shoreline. In inky darkness, she crossed the beam bridges over Spring Creek. Lupe heard, but did not see, the odd horizontal waterfall still spraying from the mountainside.
The G6 sat alone at the Spring Creek trailhead when Lupe arrived. It had been a long day, but another good one on Centennial Trail No. 89. (10:28 PM, 47°F)
Sunset on Mount Warner, Black Hills of South Dakota, 5-6-18
Day 22 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
5:18 AM, 44°F – Already light out, but dense fog hides everything. A strange noise, possibly electronic, is coming from somewhere every few seconds. SPHP checks the camera. No, it wasn’t left on. Lupe is awake. She hears the noise, too, but seems unconcerned. After a minute or two, the noise stops. Odd. Whatever. Back to sleep.
7:54 AM, 44°F – Wow, stayed conked out a long time! Still foggy, but the silvery Sagavanirktok River is now in view. Loop’s ready to get out and sniff the air. There’s that strange noise again. It’s not electronic. Birds resembling loons afloat on the Sag are the source. Cool!
It’s Monday morning. Deadhorse is awake now and apparently back to work, no longer the ghostly place it was last night. Loop hears loud noises, a variety of banging and clanging coming from across the Dalton Highway. The Carolina Dog hates loud noises! Lupe wants back in the G6, where she curls up to snooze some more.
Lupe wakes up to a view of the silvery Sagavanirktok River in Deadhorse, Alaska. Photo looks SE.
9:00 AM, 45°F – The trip journal is caught up again now. Lupe’s nap is done. The fog has lifted somewhat. Out of the G6 for another look at the Sagavanirktok River. Then it’s time to scout out breakfast possibilities, and find out more about the Arctic Ocean tour – today’s big event!
After her early nap, Lupe checks out the view of the Sagavanirktok River again. More than an hour has gone by, and the fog has lifted.
In 2016, Lupe had taken the Dalton Highway halfway to Deadhorse. She’d climbed a pair of wonderful peaks in Alaska’s Brooks Range, Sukakpak Mountain and Dillon Mountain, and gone on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure.
While in the Brooks Range, Lupe and SPHP had met several groups of people who had been all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway. Deadhorse is only 6-8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay. However, for oilfield security purposes, the public is not allowed free access to the Arctic Ocean. The only way to get there is by taking a guided tour.
SPHP asked everyone Lupe met if they had taken the Arctic Ocean tour, but nobody had. Everybody liked Alaska’s North Slope, and most had seen some really cool wildlife along the Dalton Highway – snowy owls, arctic foxes, caribou and even musk ox – but no one liked Deadhorse, an ugly industrial complex. And no one thought the price of the Arctic Ocean tour was worth it. Everyone had seen other oceans elsewhere, and that was good enough for them.
Really? The Arctic Ocean not worth it? Not even once, just to have been there and seen some part of the polar ocean at the top of the world? SPHP already knew that Dingoes weren’t officially allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour, but intended to plead Lupe’s case. If Loop had to buy a ticket, too, so be it. Even cheapskate SPHP would spring for that, if it meant the American Dingo could stand on the shore of the Arctic Ocean!
The Arctic Ocean tour begins at Deadhorse Camp, a long boxy yellow tan building visible on the L side of the Dalton Highway on the way into Deadhorse. Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp late yesterday evening.
Lupe had stopped by Deadhorse Camp yesterday evening. It was easy to spot on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching the outskirts of Deadhorse.
Since Deadhorse Camp was already within sight, SPHP drove over there first. Lupe waited in the G6 while SPHP went inside.
Already a little past 9:00 AM, it turns out that the first Arctic Ocean tour of the day has already left. The tour is conducted twice daily. A shuttle bus leaves from Deadhorse Camp at 8:30 AM and 3:30 PM. Each tour typically takes a little under 2 hours. Most of the tour is actually about the Prudhoe Bay oilfield. However, limited access to the Arctic Ocean is provided for 15 to 30 minutes. Cost is $69.00 per person, which includes all taxes and fees.
Fine, fine! It was all fine, except for one thing.
I’m sorry, Loopster! You can’t go. I tried to talk them into it, even offered to buy you a separate ticket, but it all fell on completely deaf ears. They were adamant. No Dingoes allowed.
I won’t ever get to see the Arctic Ocean?
No. I know it isn’t fair, and I’m terribly sorry. Apparently there’s just no way to get them to change their minds.
So, now what?
Well, if you don’t mind, I’d like to go on the tour myself, as the personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood. It’s the best we can do under the circumstances.
And I have to wait here in the G6?
Yes. It’s only a couple of hours. You can take it easy, and have another nap.
I suppose that’s OK, SPHP. As Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I suppose I really ought to send you as my representative since I can’t go myself. Are you leaving now?
Oh, good. Glad you see it that way, Loop. No, I’m not leaving yet. The next tour isn’t until later this afternoon. We can go do some other stuff in the meantime.
Like what?
Well, for starters, we should go to the end of the Dalton Highway. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood should get her picture taken there for posterity, don’t you think? It’s only a couple of miles from here.
Oh, yeah! That’s true! We didn’t get a picture there last night, did we? Let’s go get that taken care of before we forget.
Lupe stands on the Dalton Highway in Deadhorse, Alaska. The 414 mile long highway officially ends at the T intersection in front of Lake Colleen just ahead. Photo looks W.Looking back from the end of the Dalton Highway. This is the start of the way back S to Livengood and Fairbanks. Photo looks E.Lupe poses near Lake Colleen a little beyond the end of the Dalton Highway. Lake Colleen is the largest lake in Deadhorse. It’s possible to drive completely around it.
SPHP congratulated Lupe on reaching the end of the Dalton Highway. Maybe she would like to send her Grandma a postcard from Deadhorse? Loop thought that would be a good idea! Wouldn’t Grandma be surprised to learn she was way up here practically at the Arctic Ocean?
The clerk at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel had given SPHP a simple map of Deadhorse last night. It didn’t show much detail, but all the major roads were on it, and so was Brooks Range Supply. The clerk had said Brooks Range Supply had a gift shop. That might be a good place to look for a postcard.
The simple map of Deadhorse that SPHP received courtesy of the Prudhoe Bay Hotel. Not much detail, but the major roads are shown.
When Lupe reached Brooks Range Supply, she found a sign welcoming her to Deadhorse, Alaska on the side of the building. SPHP recognized this sign, having seen it online before Lupe ever left home on this Dingo Vacation. Now Lupe was actually here, thousands of miles from home!
Lupe outside Brooks Range Supply. SPHP recognized the yellow sign welcoming Looper to Deadhorse from the internet.Now that is one cool sign!Conclusive proof that the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood has made it all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway!
SPHP went into Brooks Range Supply while Lupe lounged about in the G6. The main floor was a giant parts store. No doubt it all would have been enormously useful if Loop intended to start up her own oilfield. However, as profitable as that might have been, it wasn’t actually the case.
A little exploring revealed that the Deadhorse post office was located here, too. It was also on the main floor down a hallway. The gift shop turned out to be a much smaller area upstairs. The gift shop had lots of clothing, mugs, and all that sort of stuff for tourists. They had postcards too, but the postcards about Alaska were all generic. SPHP had hoped to find something specific to Deadhorse, Prudhoe Bay, or the Arctic Ocean. No such luck.
SPHP bought an Alaska postcard, anyway. SPHP then returned to Lupe in the G6, to write up her postcard to Grandma before mailing it. Lupe made sure SPHP mentioned she was sending lots of love to Grandma, too.
After mailing the postcard, it was late morning. Still plenty of time left before the afternoon Arctic Ocean tour. On the way to Brooks Range Supply, SPHP had seen a multi-story hotel called the Aurora. Maybe it was possible to get lunch there? It meant another wait for Lupe in the G6, but she didn’t mind as long as she got some Taste of the Wild.
Loop outside the Aurora Hotel. The Aurora turned out to be a great place to eat!
Upon entering the Aurora Hotel, signs indicated blue slip-on boot covers were required to help keep the hotel floors clean. This is apparently standard practice everywhere in Deadhorse. The Prudhoe Bay Hotel had required them last night, too. The disposable boot covers were provided free at the entryway, along with benches to sit on while putting them on. Everyone complies, and so did SPHP.
Coming to the Aurora for lunch proved to be a fantastic idea! SPHP learned that an all you can eat luncheon was about to be served. It was buffet style and being set up right now. $15.00 tax included. A huge, high-ceiling dining area featured tall glass windows overlooking Lake Colleen. When the buffet was ready, the food was delicious! A wide variety of entrees was available. Being the middle of the day, the dining room was mostly empty. The Aurora’s customers are mostly oilfield workers, who were either working or sleeping this time of day.
SPHP tanked up on everything imaginable while watching waterfowl on Lake Colleen. It was 12:34 PM when SPHP waddled out of the Aurora.
Certainly took your sweet time, didn’t you?
Oh, Loopster! Too bad you can’t go in there. The Aurora is fantastic! So good. Better get used to the wait. Found out breakfast is served 4:30 AM to 7:30 AM. Not missing that before we leave Deadhorse in the morning.
Well, at least someone is having a grand time in Deadhorse!
Oh, come on. Here, I’ve smuggled you out some bacon. Besides, you’re going to have some fun now. We have time for a Sagavanirktok River walk. Should be a good time.
Bacon? Now you’re talking, SPHP!
Deadhorse is full of all sorts of interesting stuff. Here Lupe stands near a line of whatever in the heck they are not far from the Aurora Hotel.
For an hour, Loopster did have fun along the Sagavanirktok River. She explored rock jetties along the riverbank. She sniffed around gullies in the tundra nearby. The Carolina Dog watched geese flying in formation, and barked excitedly each time an airplane roared low overhead.
The Sag looked all silvery from even a short distance, but up close it was more of a greenish silver. The water was neither murky nor particularly clear. It was possible to see quite a few feet down into the water. The river was hundreds of feet wide, but other than the main channel, most of it didn’t appear deep. Though the current looked strong, the river’s surface rippled only slightly.
Lupe near the start of her early afternoon Sagavanirktok River walk.Looking upstream. The bank is all artificially built up along here to prevent flooding.Lupe explores rocks of one of the jetties. Photo looks downstream.Checking out one of the gullies near the Sagavanirktok River. Some of the gullies were much deeper than this.
Deadhorse was a busy place in the middle of the day. Lupe eventually became concerned with all the industrial noises she was hearing, and wanted to return to the G6. (1:57 PM) SPHP had noticed that a small gift shop in the Aurora Hotel did have postcards about Prudhoe Bay. Might as well go back and get one. Time enough to do that before heading over to Deadhorse Camp.
2:45 PM – Loop’s relaxing in the G6. Just arrived at Deadhorse Camp to pay for the Arctic Ocean tour. The guy who takes the money asks for SPHP’s identification, which is duly presented, then mentions there’s a problem. Half an hour ago, BP (formerly British Petroleum, which holds the lease in the tour area) emailed the Deadhorse Camp tour operators that everyone must make reservations at least 24 hours in advance. This is so they have time to run an FBI check.
In recent times, this has always technically been a requirement, but they haven’t been enforcing it. SPHP can’t go on this afternoon’s Arctic Ocean tour, unless the BP people waive the requirement. Will seeing an American passport help? No. It all depends on the shuttle bus driver, who is a long time BP employee. Until he arrives, nothing to do but wait. The Deadhorse Camp guy says he will encourage a waiver, but no promises.
3:30 PM – The shuttle bus has arrived. The driver hadn’t even seen the email yet. The Deadhorse Camp guy says that when he does, the driver checks everyone’s ID information then agrees to simply blow the email off, at least for this afternoon’s tour. The Arctic Ocean tour is a go! SPHP pays the $69.00 in cash, and climbs aboard the shuttle bus along with the 4 other people taking the tour. Minutes later, the tour is underway.
The tour is very informal. The driver gives no prepared talk, but is willing to answer questions. He is an Alaska native born in Kotzebue, a town of 3,500 on the W coast a little N of the Arctic Circle. He has seen herds of several thousand wild reindeer there. Zinc mining is the big employer in Kotzebue.
The driver has been working on the North Slope for 28 years in various capacities, and lives in Anchorage now. Most oilfield workers do. The company pays for flights between the job and Anchorage, on a rotating on/off cycle. While in Deadhorse, everyone works every day. Not much else to do here, anyway.
A brief stop at the East Checkpoint. The tour is authorized to continue on through the Prudhoe Bay oilfields. The driver points out several of the many scattered oilfield facilities seen from the road, and explains their purpose. If requested, he will stop anywhere along the way for photos or a longer look.
One of a variety of oilfield facilities the Arctic Ocean tour goes by.Swans on a pond en route to the Arctic Ocean.
What you get out of the shuttle bus part of the tour depends entirely on what you put into it. Ask no questions, and it’s just a taxi ride. You won’t learn much of anything. A man from western Colorado asks a number of questions. SPHP keeps up a near constant Q & A session with the driver, who is a friendly guy. No one else says anything, except a woman with a fancy camera who wants to stop wherever there’s wildlife.
SPHP notices a pile of clean white towels on the seat behind the bus driver, and makes a joke about should have brought a bathing suit, then suddenly realizes that’s exactly what those towels are for. The shuttle bus driver confirms it. Dang! Really should have worn a bathing suit. Never even thought of it until now. A swim in the Arctic Ocean would have been something! Too late now.
Something like half an hour after leaving Deadhorse Camp, the shuttle bus arrives at its destination. This is it, the Arctic Ocean! Everyone piles out. Ahead a gravelly spit of land protrudes a couple hundred yards out into the sea. No one can go anywhere except this one little peninsula. The driver says that Prudhoe Bay is on the L (W) and the Beaufort Sea is on the R (E). Seems unlikely to be strictly true, but we’re going with it. Everyone walks out toward the end of the spit.
This is it! The highlight of the Arctic Ocean tour. For $69 you can walk out to the end of this gravelly spit of land protruding into the sea. On the L is Prudhoe Bay, on the R is the Beaufort Sea. If only Lupe could have been here!
Everything is gray. The ocean is gray, the sky is gray, the rocks are gray. The sea is quite calm. SPHP takes off shoes and socks, and wades in. The water is cold, but no worse than the streams Lupe has been fording in Alaska. The water is surprisingly shallow near shore. SPHP wades 30 or 40 feet out into the Beaufort Sea. The ocean is only knee deep.
Looking out across the Beaufort Sea.
The personal representative of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stands out in the Beaufort Sea experiencing the Arctic Ocean for 5 minutes, then bends down to pluck a stone off the seabed. Except for a narrow white stripe, the stone is a uniform dull gray. Worn smooth by the action of the waves, it’s a little over 2 inches long. A 0.25 inch diameter depression on one side is the only significant feature.
A souvenir. Something real to take home from the Arctic Ocean. Utterly meaningless to the rest of the world, but forever a tangible reminder of this moment a few tens of feet off the N coast of Alaska. Clutching the small stone, SPHP wades back to join the other tour members on shore.
The Beaufort Sea from the end of the spit.
Various energy industry facilities are off in the distance strung out all along the coast in both directions. Nearby a double row of rusty barrels extends out into the sea. Little waves lap the shore line. Too bad Lupe couldn’t be here. It’s a great day. Temps in the 40’s °F. Wonder what this place must be like in winter? Brutal, no doubt.
Looking toward Prudhoe Bay.A view of some sort of oil industry facility across the bay with help from the telephoto lens. The tour guide said that all Prudhoe Bay facilities are onshore. No off-shore drilling goes on up here.Another oil industry complex across Prudhoe Bay with help from the telephoto lens.A double line of rusting barrels extends out into the Arctic Ocean.Side view looking toward the Beaufort Sea.
Other tour members start back to the shuttle bus. Must be time. SPHP lingers at the end of the spit, staring out across the Arctic Ocean. The North Pole is somewhere out there, still roughly 1,200 miles away. This is as close as SPHP will ever get.
Final look at the Arctic Ocean before boarding the shuttle bus.
The shuttle bus ride back to Deadhorse Camp retraces the original route to the ocean. Three arctic foxes playing together are the highlight of the return trip.
One of the three arctic foxes seen on the way back to Deadhorse Camp. Look at that magnificent bushy tail!The 3 foxes were very lively and enjoyed rough and tumble games with each other.Lupe would have loved playing with the foxes! How they might have felt about being joined by an American Dingo is another matter.Another energy industry complex on the way back to Deadhorse Camp.
So, how was the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP? Was it worth it?
Yeah, it was Loop. Really wished you could have been there the whole time, though. I waded right out into the Arctic Ocean!
Wasn’t it frigid?
Not as bad as I expected, but then it’s a balmy day in August. No worse than all the streams and bogs you’ve been traipsing through almost daily on this trip.
What did you like best about it?
Just being there, thinking about where I was on the globe. Zillions of people have been to the ocean, but not that many have ever been to the Arctic Ocean.
Hardly any Dingoes either, I don’t suppose, given the anti-Dingo policies around here.
Probably not, but your cousins have been there!
What?!
We saw three arctic foxes! They were playing together. You would have loved that. And their tails! Magnificent! I like your curly tail, but these foxes had some of the most exquisite tails you’ve ever seen.
Oh, fun! But I think I better stick with the tail I’ve got. I’m rather attached to it, and it to me. So, now what?
Well, how about a tour of Deadhorse? You can at least do that. We’ll just drive around seeing whatever there is to see. We can follow it up with a second Sagavanirktok River walk this evening.
Sounds good. Especially the river walk part. I’m not really so into all this industrial stuff, but we might as well see it while we’re here.
Leaving Deadhorse Camp, Lupe and SPHP drove most of the few major roads in Deadhorse. Several short side roads and a couple of large loops constituted most of the Carolina Dog’s Deadhorse tour.
Nearly everything Lupe saw was directly related to the energy industry. Various industrial installations, a wide variety of oil service companies, drilling rigs, heavy equipment, maintenance and storage facilities, and stacks of supplies were about it. White pickup trucks were all over the place, and semi trucks came and went.
The only businesses open to serving the general public seemed to be the small airport, a couple of unmanned gas stations, various boxy “hotels”, and the gift shop at Brooks Range Supply.
Not a single home was seen anywhere. All the oilfield workers live in the hotels.
Idle drilling rigs in Deadhorse. Energy prices had been low for a couple of years now.Another drilling rig.Lupe went clear around Lake Colleen on her tour of Deadhorse. Here she’s NW of the lake only 6 miles from Prudhoe Bay.The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood a little NW of Lake Colleen.A truck maintenance and repair facility. Some places in Deadhorse looked quite new like this one. Others appeared much older.Stacks of supplies were a common sight.Lots of oil service companies have offices and facilities in Deadhorse.SPHP has a red stocking cap that says “Halliburton”. It was picked up at a garage sale years ago, but brought SPHP instant acceptance here in Deadhorse. Everyone seemed to think SPHP worked here!Hotels in Deadhorse really look strange. They are all boxy like this, but are often surprisingly nice inside. Only some of them cater to the public. Most are full of oilfield workers since there are no homes at all in Deadhorse.Giant spools.One of two gas stations in Deadhorse. This is the fanciest one. Both are completely unmanned. No convenience stores here or anywhere else in Deadhorse. Except for energy industry related businesses, there’s no business district at all.Mural on one of the buildings. Deadhorse is part of Alaska’s nearly 95,000 square mile North Slope Borough.
8:17 PM – Having had a bite to eat, it was time for Lupe’s evening walk along the Sagavanirktok River. For the first time in many days, most of the sky overhead was completely blue, though clouds existed farther off in every direction. The Sag, as it’s called locally, reflected the sky and was now a beautiful blue itself.
Lupe starts her second Sagavanirktok River walk of the day – an unhurried, evening stroll upstream.Following the beautiful Sagavanirktok River upstream in Deadhorse.
The American Dingo wasn’t the only one out enjoying the lovely evening by the Sagavanirktok River. Several fishermen were trying their luck from the bank. A couple of hardy souls came floating down the river. Even though only a light intermittent breeze was blowing, a man kept trying to launch a green kite. The kite would soar briefly before plunging back to earth.
A couple of hardy souls go floating by down the Sagavanirktok River.The green kite soars briefly on a weak, unreliable breeze.
After a long relaxing stroll, Lupe reached a van parked near the river not far from Deadhorse Camp. The van belonged to a graduate student in theoretical chemistry from Germany. He was watching caribou far beyond the opposite bank of the Sagavanirktok with binoculars. The student let SPHP take a peek.
The theoretical chemist already had reservations to take the Arctic Ocean tour tomorrow. SPHP advised him to wear his swim suit. Lupe enjoyed being petted while the student and SPHP chatted.
This was far enough. The sun was getting low. The moment came to turn around, and begin the walk back to the G6.
Lupe at the endpoint of her Sagavanirktok River walk.
Looper had quite a romp among the gullies near the river. She sniffed and explored to her heart’s delight.
Among the gullies where Loop had a fun romp.
The sun took a long time to slide toward the horizon. It was still light out and would be for a while when Lupe reached the G6 again. (9:37 PM) Almost an hour later, SPHP invited Loop to come out and watch the sun go down over the Deadhorse airport. A brilliant sunset seemed like a possibility due to some thin clouds.
The Carolina Dog was done for the day. She wanted to curl up under her blankie instead. SPHP left her to snooze, and walked 5 minutes to the top of a mound of dirt 15 feet higher than the surrounding tundra.
Alone, SPHP stood watching the sun sink. The sunset was pretty, but the hoped for pinks and reds never really developed. It was still a gorgeous evening, a magical moment. An Alaska Airlines plane took off from the airport and curved away overhead. A glistening Sagavanirktok River rippled by near the end of its journey to the Arctic Ocean.
The Arctic Sun near the end of day.The sky turned golden.The set up for the sunset looked promising.But the pinks and reds never really developed.
Tomorrow Lupe would leave for other adventures. SPHP was glad she’d come here, though, beyond the Brooks Range and across the North Slope to Deadhorse at the N end of the Dalton Highway near Prudhoe Bay.
Start (9:39 AM, 40°F), intersection of Slate Creek Road (County Road No. 309) & USFS Road No. 424, about 5 miles SE of Deerfield Reservoir
Oh no, not again! Ugh, seriously? What a chow hound! What was that icky red thing over there anyway? Some disgusting carcass no doubt. SPHP called a couple times before Big Sid came running.
No wonder you’re Big Sid, you’ll eat anything no matter how dreadful it is!
Sidney didn’t feel the least bit ashamed of himself. If anything, he took pride in his new found wilderness survival skills. On Expedition No. 69, he’d done the same thing. He’d suddenly disappeared, and after a short search SPHP had found him chomping away on an absolutely vile, sickly green, huge mucous-covered sac or organ he’d found in the woods.
What had it been that time? Maybe a deer liver or stomach. Whatever it was, Lupe had the good sense to show no interest. To SPHP the mere sight of it had been revolting. Yet there was Sidney, gulping it down with evident delight. An hour later, he puked it all up again. Charming. At least he hadn’t waited until he’d been returned home. The neighbors would have loved that.
Lupe wasn’t even 0.5 mile from the G6 yet when Sidney discovered this latest delicacy. Big Sid was only on his 4th expedition with Lupe. If he was going to be a regular, he was going to have to give up this nauseous-treat-in-the-woods routine. Other than that, Sidney had been doing fine on these expeditions and getting lots of needed exercise.
Onward! Lupe, Sidney and SPHP continued NW up USFS Road No. 424. The road turned N and climbed up to a minor pass. Staying on the road any further meant losing elevation, so everyone left it heading WNW. Snow was on the ground, but didn’t amount to much. Lupe was still gaining elevation. Before long, she was out of the trees and cresting a big, barren ridge. She had reached the E edge of Gillette Prairie.
Lupe reaches the E edge of Gillette Prairie, several square miles of rolling grasslands within the Black Hills. Photo looks W.Looking NW toward high country of the limestone plateau from the E edge of Gillette Prairie.This was Sidney’s 4th expedition with Lupe. He was supposed to be getting exercise so he could slim down, not finding disgusting things to eat in the forest, which he seemed to have a talent for. Photo looks W across Gillette Prairie.Loop on the barren ridge E of Gillette Prairie Photo looks E.
No definite plan existed for Expedition No. 70, though SPHP thought it might be fun for Lupe to go clear around Gillette Prairie. W of Gillette Prairie were high ridges, part of the limestone plateau country. The ridges were some of the highest ground in the Black Hills. From Green Mountain(7,167 ft.) Lupe ought to have some fabulous views.
Going directly across Gillette Prairie wasn’t an option. Nearly all the open ground was privately owned ranchland, but it was all surrounded by Black Hills National Forest.
The highest part of the ridge Lupe was on was off to the NW. That might be the best way to go. Lupe and Sidney kept climbing along the ridge. The high point was back in the forest, but Lupe had enough of a view to see South Slate Creek valley ahead. Lupe would have to lose elevation crossing it.
Losing some elevation wasn’t a big deal. Lupe and Sidney proceeded on down toward the valley. Lupe was half way down or more when she came to a fence. The fence ran N/S. A house could now be seen on the NW side of the valley. That meant the land beyond the fence was likely private property. Continuing NW apparently wasn’t an option, at least not here. Lupe would have to follow the fence N for a while.
No problem, except where was Sidney? He was missing again! Lupe never wanders off for more than a few minutes. She was here, but Sidney was nowhere in sight. Where had he disappeared to this time? What had he gotten into now? SPHP quickly scanned the forest for movement. Nothing. Oh, brother – not good!
Shortly before reaching the fence, Lupe had crossed a dirt road. Loop and SPHP went back to it. No Sidney in either direction. No Sidney in any direction. SPHP started calling for Sidney. Several minutes went by. Big Sid did not appear. Worrisome, very worrisome.
Suddenly finding Sidney was top priority. The neighbors would be unhappy if SPHP delivered a queasy Sidney home to puke on their carpets, but absolutely and justifiably outraged if SPHP managed to completely lose their precious pooch!
The snow on the ground was insufficient to track him, and his Carolina Dog buddy wasn’t any help. Lupe didn’t seem the least bit concerned where her friend Sidney was. Maybe she reasoned that Big Sid had enough reserves to easily last him a month in the wilderness, and he would be fine. That might be true enough, but “We’ll go back to Gillette Prairie in a month or two to find Sid when he’s all nice and slim and trim.” sure wasn’t going to fly back home.
Gah! What to do? Where had he gone? Back to the red carcass? Back to the G6? Following some new wretched scent off into the forest? SPHP stood on a stump looking for movement, calling and calling for Big Sid.
Finally Big Sid reappeared, trotting happily back along the road from the S without a care in the world. Sheesh! He hadn’t been gone all that long, but SPHP was very glad to see him. At least Sidney finally responded when called, but better keep a closer eye on him from now on. SPHP was used to letting Lupe roam at will without having to worry she would disappear like that. Lupe always kept close tabs on SPHP, not the other way around.
OK, back to business. Lupe, Sidney and SPHP went down to the fence again and began following it N. Ten minutes later, the fence turned NE. Following it NE way down South Slate Creek valley meant losing a lot more elevation. Sigh. Maybe it was best to simply go S instead? Perhaps Sidney had the right idea after all?
Fine, let’s try that. Everyone went S. It was a fiasco. The fence went S for a while, a little W of the barren ridge Lupe and Sid had been on before, but eventually turned SE instead of SW. SPHP finally checked the USFS map and found that Lupe would have to go clear back to the G6, and then even farther S to get around Gillette Prairie this way. Everything to the W was private property.
No way! The northern route was better, shorter.
Following the fence S along the E side of the private ranchlands in Gillette Prairie backfired. There was no way W across the private land, and the fence eventually turned SE instead of SW. When SPHP finally checked the map, it was clear that going N was the best way around. All this time, Lupe and Big Sid had the same slightly closer view of Green Mountain (L) on the far side of Gillette Prairie that they’d had before. Photo looks W.
Lupe and Big Sid wound up back on USFS Road No. 424 heading N up to the same minor pass again. This time they stayed on the road beyond the pass, losing elevation for a while before leaving the road to venture NNW. They climbed up to a different rocky high point overlooking South Slate Creek valley where they stopped for a Taste of the Wild and water break.
The big useless loop back to the S and E had consumed 1.5 hours of daylight. Completely circumnavigating Gillette Prairie wasn’t going to be possible now. Maybe Lupe could still get over to the high country on the NW side, though, before turning back?
Lupe and Sidney continued on. They went clear down to South Slate Creek, crossed it, and found USFS Road No. 424.1B, a muddy road which led N up a hill on the other side of the valley. At the top of the hill, another road came in from the W. Since they had to be N of Gillette Prairie by now, Lupe and Sid turned W and followed it.
When the new road turned SW, Lupe and Sidney left it wandering W on level ground through the forest for a while. Exploring was fun, but the terrain eventually forced them S back to the road. Soon afterward, the road intersected USFS Road No. 297, the main N/S gravel road through Gillette Prairie. A marker said the side road they had been following was No. 297.4D.
Lupe and Sidney were finally getting somewhere! Another, better road (unmarked, but likely USFS Road No. 656) was on the W side of No. 297. No fences were over here, so it appeared to be USFS land. Lupe liked exploring the forest, so everyone left No. 656, but continued paralleling it a little to the N.
After a lot of circling around, Lupe and Sidney finally started making progress toward Green Mountain.
For a little while, Lupe and Sidney were making great progress toward Green Mountain. It was too good to last. No. 656 turned S and led into private property. A fence, a house and horses were up ahead. To get around them, Lupe would have to continue W down a thickly forested slope. How far she would have to go and how much elevation she would have to lose, was unclear.
Once USFS Road No. 656 turned S and entered private property, the jig was up. To continue W off the road down into this thick forest before starting a big climb up Green Mountain was not an option. It was too late in the day for such an adventure. Photo looks NW. Hat Mountain(6,779 ft.) which Lupe and Sidney had climbed on Expedition No. 69 is in view in the distance.
Too much time had been lost earlier. It was too late in the day for a long off-road, off-trail adventure through thick forest leading to a long climb. Green Mountain wasn’t happening. Ahh, well. So it goes. No big views today. Better turn back.
Lupe and Sidney didn’t care. Going to Green Mountain or back to the G6 was all the same to them. They were still having a blast exploring. At least Big Sid hadn’t disappeared again.
Although this was only Big Sid’s 4th expedition with Lupe, he was getting the hang of how things worked. He really enjoyed the long days in the hills, although his owners reported back after each trek that he was totally exhausted and could barely move for days on end afterwards.Loop and Sidney, neighbors and exploring partners, shortly after starting back for the G6. They got along well on their joint expeditions. Sidney was a welcome addition to the pack!
For a while, the route back was a retracement of Lupe and Big Sid’s earlier travels. The dogs paralleled No. 656 through the forest back to No. 297, crossed it, and followed No. 297.4D to the junction with No. 424.1B. They then went S on muddy No. 424.1B down to South Slate Creek.
Going S down muddy USFS Road No. 424.1B into the South Slate Creek valley. Lupe and Sidney had taken their Taste of the Wild and water break earlier in the day up on top of the hill seen ahead. Photo looks S.Loop checking for squirrels on the way down to South Slate Creek.
Upon reaching South Slate Creek, Loop and Sid made a change in the route back, exploring a road leading E downstream. The sun was getting low now. It seemed best to stick to the roads, at least until they were closer to the G6.
Bare aspen trees in South Slate Creek valley.Down in South Slate Creek valley, the sun was already getting low.Sidney in the snow in South Slate Creek valley.Lupe liked the snow.
Lupe and Sidney didn’t have to go too far down South Slate Creek valley before reaching a junction with USFS Road No. 424 again. They were farther N on it than they’d been before and took it heading S.
No. 424 would have led all the way back to the G6, but upon reaching the minor pass for the 3rd time today, this time from the N, SPHP decided to climb High Point 6624, the hill to the E. The last rays of sunlight were still glowing faintly on the highest distant peaks when Lupe and Big Sid arrived on top 15 minutes later. Everything else was in shadow.
The views were beautiful – peaceful, serene. The Black Hills stretched N to the horizon. To the E, the prairies of western South Dakota were dimly perceived beyond the hills.
The remaining light faded quickly from even the highest hills. A slow, steep trek down an ugly S slope covered with deadfall timber and thistles ensued. Reaching No. 424 again far down in the valley took a while, but the G6 was now close by. It was nearly dark when Lupe and Sidney jumped in (4:53 PM, 30°F).
A warning light came on when SPHP started the G6. Yikes! Not one, but two tires had low air pressure! Fortunately, enough pressure remained in each to make it home. Sidney was returned to his owners. Somehow he managed not to puke up any noxious materials overnight.
Even though Lupe’s adventures East of Gillette Prairie hadn’t led to any great accomplishments, it had still been a lovely day spent exploring the hills. Both dogs had fun, and various tragedies had been avoided. Some adventures that’s as good as it gets. Best to have enough sense to appreciate it!
