Part 1 of Day 3 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
August, yet Banff was quiet and cool. Low clouds hid the mountains. Only a few people were wandering about this early in the normally bustling tourist town. Summer had vanished. It felt a little like fall with winter on the way. Lupe & SPHP left Banff heading W on Trans-Canada Hwy 1. (5:44 AM, 52°F)
Not until Lupe was well N of Lake Louise on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 did the clouds begin to dissipate. The sky was clear by the time she reached the picnic ground at Bow Lake.
After 2 days spent almost entirely on the road, Lupe needed to get out of the G6 and do something active for a while. The Canadian Rockies are a perfect place for that! One of the most beautiful short day hikes was right here at Bow Lake. With the sun out now, the morning would warm up fast. It was still early enough for Lupe to beat the hordes of tourists certain to appear before too long.
SPHP drove over to the N side of Bow Lake, parking the G6 at Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah Lodge(7:16 AM). The big gravel parking lot at the trailhead for Bow Glacier Falls was practically empty, but would be overflowing soon enough on a day like this. Before hitting the trail, Lupe went down to the N shore of Bow Lake. Wisps of fog lingered over the smooth, still waters. Lupe could see Bow Peak(9,318 ft.) and part of the Crowfoot Glacier across the lake.
Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe’s ultimate destination, was already in view to the SW. From a distance like this, Lupe could even see part of the Bow Glacier, an arm of the massive Wapta Icefield, above the falls.
On her way to the trail, Lupe passed by Simpson’s Num-Ti-Jah lodge with its distinctive red roof.
The first part of the trek to Bow Glacier Falls went W right along the N shore of Bow Lake. The easy, level trail gradually turned SW. The views were stunning from the very start.
By the time Lupe reached the W end of Bow Lake, Bow Glacier Falls had sunk out of sight behind a forested ridge. The trail now went SSW following a swift glacier-fed stream. The stream was braided where it flowed into Bow Lake.
Following the stream was super easy. The trail stayed close to the W bank, but never crossed the river. In some places cairns marked the way, but they weren’t needed, since it was always obvious where the trail was headed. Other than one short stretch where the stream forced the trail into the forest, the terrain was level the entire way to a set of stairs at the base of a forested ridge.
The only steep section of the whole Bow Glacier Falls trail began with the stairs at the base of the forested ridge. During this climb, which didn’t take Looper long, the stream was only occasionally in sight. It could always be heard, though, rushing in a roaring torrent through a deep, narrow chasm nearby.
Once up on the forested ridge, Lupe had a panoramic view of what lay ahead from a bare spot along the edge of the far side. Below her, two pale blue glacial streams joined forces to form the larger stream that disappeared immediately into the chasm. One of these smaller streams flowed down from snowfields hidden in an intriguing, mysterious valley to the S. The other stream came from Bow Glacier Falls, which was now in sight again at the far end of a large rocky amphitheater to the SW.
Continuing on, Lupe lost a little elevation as the trail descended the other side of the forested ridge into the lower end of the amphitheater below Bow Glacier Falls. Once in the amphitheater, it was a simple matter to follow the trail up toward the base of the falls.
The Bow Glacial Falls trail became braided and ultimately disintegrated before actually reaching the falls, but the waterfall was always in sight directly ahead. The rest of the way, Loop sniffed and explored her way among rocks and two inch deep streams that trickled everywhere.
An hour and twenty minutes after leaving Num-Ti-Jah lodge at Bow Lake, Lupe arrived at the base of the falls. Not a soul was around. Due to her early morning start, Looper hadn’t seen anyone else on the whole trail. The coveted solitude wasn’t likely to last long. The Bow Glacier Falls trail is so accessible, easy, and scenic from start to finish that it is one of the most popular short day hikes in the Canadian Rockies.
Of course, the first thing to do was to climb up next to the falls about as high as seemed reasonably safe.
Bow Glacier Falls was spectacular, but the views back down the valley were amazing, too!
Lupe and SPHP scrambled around a bit more to get a little higher. The terrain wasn’t that difficult, but some of the rocks were very slick with water trickling down over them. Loopster did manage to get somewhat higher than before. The difference in elevation was enough so the Carolina Dog could now see the W end of Bow Lake.
Lupe climbed about as far up as the Carolina Dog could reasonably go. Most of rocks above her were wet and slippery. SPHP decided she had gone far enough. Bow Glacier Falls flows down from an unseen upper lake located below Bow Glacier. It would have been great fun to get up above the falls to see the upper lake and the glacier, but a solid line of cliffs ruled out any possibility of doing that.
Amid the grandeur of the Canadian Rockies, Lupe and SPHP took a 30 minute break on the dry parts of a rock ledge. The day had warmed up nicely. Lupe didn’t have a care in the world. SPHP filled 3 water bottles with water from the Bow Glacier which had tumbled over the falls. Lupe munched Taste of the Wild, and enjoyed being petted.
The glorious solitude lasted longer than SPHP expected it would, but inevitably people were seen coming up the trail. The time had arrived to think about moving on.
After 50 minutes of glorious solitude at Bow Glacier Falls, Lupe and SPHP started down. Lupe paused along the edge of the falls once or twice for photos, then it was time to hit the trail. People were getting close.
A hiker in one of the first groups Lupe passed on her way down told SPHP that a side trail existed that went all the way up Mount Jimmy Simpson(9,731 ft.). The side trail left the main trail down at the forested ridge, and wasn’t hard to find. That sounded great! SPHP was interested immediately. Lupe should do that today, right now!
Searching for the trail up Mount Jimmy Simpson, Lupe and SPHP tried several side trails on or near the forested ridge. None went far. They all quickly faded away in dense forest on steep slopes. Hmm. The hiker had said the correct side trail was easy to find. Easy perhaps, if one knew exactly where to look.
By now, throngs of hikers were heading up to Bow Glacier Falls. SPHP asked some of them if they knew anything about a trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson? No one, not even experienced professional guides leading large groups, had a clue. Few had even heard of Mount Jimmy Simpson. Disappointed, SPHP gave up on the idea.
Lupe remained cheerful, however. The trek to Bow Glacier Falls had been perfect! The scenery was stunning the entire way, and she’d had a lot of fun sniffing around and getting some exercise. Now on on the way back, she was getting to see and do it all over again.
Before noon, Lupe was back at Num-Ti-Jah lodge. Even with almost an hour spent relaxing near the falls, and the failed search for the side trail to Mount Jimmy Simpson, the whole trek to Bow Glacier Falls and back had taken only a little over 4 hours.
The trail to Bow Glacier Falls had been a grand time. The American Dingo had enjoyed a wonderful needed break from the G6, and seen a favorite part of the glorious Canadian Rockies again. She was now ready to continue the long journey N on the way to her next adventure.
Not much of an artist are you, SPHP? Can’t even draw a decent stick Dingo!
True, that! But it’s not a stick, Dingo. It’s a topographic map. With all of two contours on it. It’s going to have to do.
We’re going to rely on that?
Yeppers. Can’t waste any more time trying to print out a decent map. No telling where we might wind up with this wonderful homemade navigation tool, but we’ve got to get going.
Why can’t you print out a map? Is the printer broken?
No, I don’t think so. The computer and the printer are just having a spat. They’re refusing to talk to each other. Probably angry and upset by something one of these automatic Windows 10 updates said. I see that the printer got all huffy and “migrated” on 3-9-18. I never told it to do that, and it never asked for permission. It just took off on its own free artificial intelligence.
Migrated? Are you blind, SPHP? The printer is right there, still on your desk. It never goes anywhere.
Oh, you would be surprised, Looper. It migrates digitally. In this case, off to Noprintyland again, where it loves to wander off to every chance it gets.
So even though the printer is still right here, you’re saying it’s off having adventures of its own in Noprintyland?
Sounds strange, but yeah, that’s about the size of it.
Doesn’t make a lick of sense to me! Are you feeling, OK?
Yes, I’m fine. Anyway, come on! Time to hit the road!
Due to colder than normal wintry weather, Lupe hadn’t really been much of anywhere for a whole month. The snow had been melting the last couple of days, though, and today was supposed to be really nice. Loopster was ready for action – had been for weeks, but SPHP just kept driving. The American Dingo had a fun time barking at cows, but was still glad when SPHP finally parked the G6.
Lupe hopped out. She was at a familiar place, Cascade Falls along Hwy 71 at the S end of the Black Hills. Although Cascade Falls is a popular swimming and wading spot in the summer, no one was here now.
Let’s go take a look at the falls, Looper.
Lupe would have been perfectly happy staying at Cascade Falls, but that wasn’t her destination today. She was just here to stretch her legs for a few minutes, then it was back in the G. The drive S continued.
Nebraska! That sign said Nebraska! Are we going to cousin Dusty’s house in Colorado, SPHP? You sure packed light this time.
No, we aren’t going all the way to Colorado, Looper. We’re going back to Toadstool Geologic Park to explore part of the Hudson Meng Bison Trail. Remember when you took the Fossil Loop Trail a couple of years ago? That was in Toadstool Geologic Park.
Oh, yeah! That was awesome exploring the Nebraska badlands! Had to watch out for cactus, though. So we’re going back to take the Bison Trail now? Will we get to see the Hudson Meng Bison Kill? Oh, I hope so! Just think of it, SPHP, the bones of 600 bison, just laying there waiting to be gnawed on! Why, I will be the richest Dingo on earth with a treasure like that!
No, we’re not going all the way to Hudson Meng. Sorry. I don’t think it’s open this time of year. They wouldn’t let you chew on their bison bones, anyway. You wouldn’t like it if they did. Those bones are 10,000 year old fossils now. You’re a bit late getting to them.
Oh, too bad. So what are we gonna do then?
We’re going to take the Hudson Meng Bison Trail up the Big Cottonwood Creek drainage. When we’re out of the badlands, we’ll leave the trail and head S for Roundtop Peak. I’m hoping we’ll get to Pine Butte and Wright Peak, too. You will get to do a lot of exploring.
Oh, some peakbagging! Sounds like fun. Not as much fun as 600 bison bones, though.
Almost immediately after crossing the Nebraska state line, SPHP turned R on Toadstool Road. Toadstool Road was gravel. For a few miles there were spots where the road was mighty wet. The G6 went through huge mud puddles sending a slushy, muddy spray everywhere, but fortunately did not become stuck. The road then improved somewhat, up on higher, drier ground.
12 miles from the N end of Toadstool Road, Lupe saw another sign for Toadstool Geologic Park. SPHP turned R (SW) onto a side road that went up over railroad tracks. Toadstool Geologic Park was only 1.5 miles from here, but SPHP stopped a little before Lupe got there. Her peakbagging objectives for the day were in view.
The road dead ended at a campground. Toadstool Geologic Park was totally deserted when Lupe arrived. SPHP took a quick look at some of the displays, while Lupe sniffed around the campground.
After brief preparations, Lupe and SPHP left the campground heading W on the Fossil Loop Trail. (10:29 AM, 53°F) Lupe was soon among the toadstool rock formations Toadstool Geologic Park is named for.
The Fossil Loop Trail wound among fascinating badlands scenery. Lupe quickly reached a junction with the Hudson Meng Bison Trail.
The Hudson Meng Bison Trail follows Big Cottonwood Creek S for more than a mile. Big Cottonwood Creek didn’t have any cottonwoods along it, so there wasn’t much shade. Most of the year, the creek would have been dry, but there was a shallow stream of snow melt today.
The trail crossed the creek many times. If conditions had been much wetter, this would have meant numerous slogs through deep mud. Clearly this was no place to be when it was wet. Fortunately, it was just dry enough today so SPHP could avoid getting too terribly muddy. Lupe simply forged ahead oblivious to the creek crossings.
Loop hadn’t gone far when she came to a sign saying she was about to leave Toadstool Geologic Park.
The Hudson Meng Bison Trail promptly faded away. Apparently it sees little use. There was seldom any track to follow, but brown posts topped with beige marked the general route.
As Lupe followed Big Cottonwood Creek upstream, it became little more than a trickle. It wasn’t always possible to tell at a glance which way the Hudson Meng Bison Trail went. Other little creeks trickled out of large side canyons and ravines.
The marker posts weren’t numerous, but if Lupe went more than 5 or 10 minutes without seeing one, she had usually taken a wrong turn into a side canyon and had to backtrack. The correct route was almost always toward the W (R) in the canyon with the most vegetation.
Some of the side canyons proved to be interesting detours. Even if they were the wrong way, Lupe had fun on her brief excursions into them.
Only a few days ago, it had still been cold out. With some snow still melting, SPHP wasn’t too worried Lupe would run into rattlesnakes.
However, there was a fair amount of her other prairie nemesis around. Cactus wasn’t super abundant, but it wasn’t uncommon either. SPHP had to watch out for it for Looper. In a few places, SPHP carried Lupe beyond larger cactus patches. Every now and then she stepped on a cactus, and didn’t care for that at all. SPHP then had to pull a few small, but painful spines out of her paws.
For the most part, though, the Carolina Dog was doing fine. She was having a good time sniffing and exploring. The badlands scenery following Big Cottonwood Creek was so beautiful and western looking! It was fun to think about all the strange ancient mammals that used to roam this area millions of years ago. Some of their bones are still hidden as fossils back in these wild looking ravines.
After crossing muddy Big Cottonwood Creek a zillion times, and dodging cactus patches which were becoming more frequent and extensive, Lupe arrived at a fence. The fence had a big open gap in it where what little remained of Big Cottonwood Creek flowed through. Beyond this gap a trail marker could be seen. For the first time, the trail left the creek’s main channel here and entered a narrow side canyon.
The side canyon was V-shaped with steep, crumbly sides. The upper rim of this ravine wasn’t all that much higher than where Lupe was at the bottom. Clearly, the American Dingo would soon be reaching the end of the canyon.
The end of the ravine was steep, but a short climb brought Lupe up onto a vast prairie. A faint, grassy road headed SSE. This was USFS Road No. 918, which would eventually go over a saddle between Roundtop Peak (4,540 ft.) and Pine Butte (4,500 ft.), both now back in view to the S.
A line of Hudson Meng Bison Trail markers led across the prairie heading SW toward another big ravine. This ravine is part of the Whitehead Creek drainage. Following USFS Road No. 918 would have been a little shorter, but Lupe stuck with the Hudson Meng Bison Trail until she got close to the Whitehead Creek ravine instead.
Instead of following the Bison Trail down into the Whitehead Creek drainage, Lupe left the trail heading SE. She stayed on the high ground overlooking the scenic ravine. The rim of the ravine had only a little grass and virtually no cactus. Lupe gained elevation steadily.
0.75 mile from where she’d left the trail, Lupe neared the top of a small hill. Here she had a good view off to the SW from a different angle than before. A higher ridge could now be seen beyond a sharp hill that SPHP had assumed was Wright Peak. Maybe that higher ridge was actually Wright Peak(4,654 ft.)? SPHP wasn’t certain. It seemed like that might make sense.
Consulting the hand-sketched topo map didn’t help. Knowing that Lupe would ultimately be approaching Wright Peak from the E, SPHP hadn’t extended the map any farther W than Wright Peak. Whether or not there was any higher ground beyond it wasn’t shown.
Nothing could be done to extend the map now. Lupe continued up to the top of the small hill. Roundtop Peak was less than 0.5 mile S.
Lupe ended up following USFS Road No. 918 part of the way to the base of Roundtop Peak. She left the road to climb the hill’s surprisingly steep N slope.
A forest fire had occurred in this region in 2012. Most of the pine trees on Roundtop were dead. Quite a few had fallen over. The deadfall made getting to the summit of Roundtop Peak harder than it should have been, but it still didn’t take Loop long to reach the top of the hill.
First things first! Lupe was ready for a break. Water and Taste of the Wild. SPHP ate an apple. For a little while, Loop and SPHP rested with a grand view of the western Nebraska prairie off to the SE. Then it was time to tour Roundtop’s summit.
From the W end of Roundtop Peak’s summit, Lupe had an excellent view of her remaining peakbagging objectives.
The summit of Pine Butte(4,500 ft.) is 0.75 mile WNW of Roundtop. It didn’t take Lupe long to get there. Pine Butte had really been hit hard by the 2012 forest fire. Deadfall littered the summit ridge. Not a single pine tree survived. Worse yet, no small trees had germinated since the fire. Pine Butte will not be worthy of its name again for a long, long time.
From Pine Butte, Lupe could see the Hudson Meng Bison Kill site buildings. The whole place looked deserted.
Wright Peak was Lupe’s next objective. The Carolina Dog left Pine Butte going partway down a S ridge before turning WSW. She crossed two gravel roads and a fairly high ridge between them before reaching hills which should lead her to Wright Peak. Once she was high up in these hills, she skirted along the S side of them continuing SW.
Lupe was now very close to Wright Peak, but SPHP mistakenly believed the American Dingo needed to get all the way to the higher ridge to the SW. This error would never have occurred if the printer had operated correctly this morning. With only SPHP’s crude hand sketched topo map to go on, Lupe and SPHP went right on by the true summit.
It was an interesting trek nonetheless. Lupe arrived up on the higher ridge to find several high points along a series of small rock formations spread out over a relatively large area. All of these high points were nearly equal in elevation, but the one farthest S seemed perhaps a little higher than the others. Lupe and SPHP repeatedly searched around all these high points looking for the Wright survey benchmark, but found nothing. Lupe was actually on Peak 4760.
Looper and SPHP stayed up on Peak 4760 a little while. Not too long, though. The sun was getting low, and it was a long way back to the G6. There was a need for some speed on the return trip, so Lupe wouldn’t get lost down in the Big Cottonwood Creek canyon after dark on the way back to Toadstool Geologic Park.
Since she was in a hurry, Lupe didn’t go back through the hills the way she had come. Instead, she took a grassy road (USFS Road No. 944) that led down a draw. The draw ultimately fed into the larger Sand Creek drainage. This was a faster route, but didn’t bring Lupe close to the real Wright Peak again. So the Carolina Dog never got to climb it, even though SPHP now suspected the truth.
When Lupe reached Sand Creek Road, she headed ESE. She soon saw an intersection with USFS Road No. 918 ahead. Loop cut over to No. 918 and followed it over the little pass between Pine Butte and Roundtop.
Once N of Roundtop Peak, the rest of the journey back simply retraced Lupe’s earlier route to Roundtop. It was a beautiful evening. Both Loop and SPHP had a wonderful time. Enough light remained to navigate the muddy Big Cottonwood Creek crossings and avoid the cacti when Lupe reached the badlands again.
The sun was down by the time Loop was back at Toadstool Geologic Park. As twilight faded, Lupe completed the rest of the Fossil Loop Trail, which brought her back to the campground. (7:23 PM, 47°F) It was a long drive home from here, but the fun wasn’t entirely over yet. Until she reached Hwy 71 again, Lupe stood on SPHP’s lap, her head out the window, barking happily at unseen black cows sniffed on the night air.