Day 15 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to New Mexico!
5-22-21, 6:42 AM, 40ºF, Jemez Mountains, New Mexico –
We’re turning around, SPHP?
Yup. Sorry, Loopster! It’s not happening.
The RAV4 had made it a few miles W of the pass along USFS Road No. 144 where Lupe had started for Polvadera Peak(11,232 ft.) yesterday, but directly ahead was a stretch of very rough road. The intention had been to start the day with an ascent of Cerro de la Garita(10,600 ft.), but it was still miles away, and Lupe’s RAV4 was practically brand new! SPHP wasn’t about to abuse it like this.
So Cerro de la Garita was out. Morning sun shining directly into SPHP’s eyes, the scenic drive back E to Espanola began.
Turned out, not much else was going to happen on this Dingo Vacation, either. It was time to start for home, and farther N the peaks on Lupe’s list of possibilities for this trip were all too high, still blanketed in snow. It was a gorgeous drive, though, through some parts of New Mexico and Colorado Lupe had never been to before. For hundreds of miles, the Carolina Dog was content riding in comfort on her pink blanket while enjoying all the fabulous scenery. Cows, horses, sometimes even sheep!
Now and then SPHP stopped to let the American Dingo get out to stretch and sniff the air for a few minutes, but SPHP seemed to have a different sense of what the journey’s highlights were.
In Colorado, everything was green E of the Rockies. Clouds hung low over the prairie, hiding the mountains, as heavy showers drifted slowly E. Once SPHP turned N onto I-25, the interesting part of the drive was over as far as Loopster was concerned. Nothing but traffic. Nap time!
A long nap it was, too. SPHP thought about taking Hwy 24 NE out of Colorado Springs, then turning N on Hwy 71 way out on the prairie, but didn’t do it, a decision soon regretted as rain, construction, and accidents made a stop and go mess of I-25 all the way to Denver and beyond.
After fueling the RAV4 at Exit 269 near Fort Collins, instead of returning to I-25, SPHP drove E on Hwy 14 toward Briggsdale. Lupe yawned.
Finally wised up and getting us out of all the horrendous traffic, SPHP?
Yes, wised up in more ways than one, actually.
What do you mean, SPHP?
Rather late as far as ditching the traffic goes, since we were already past the worst of it, but I happened to think about one more thing we ought do on this Dingo Vacation.
And what might that be?
How would you like to see some buffalo, Looper?
You know I’d love that, SPHP!
Well, if we can get there before it gets dark, you might get to see some.
Get where before dark?
Panorama Point(5,429 ft.), Loop! Highpoint of the state of Nebraska! It’s at the far SW corner of the Nebraska panhandle on a buffalo ranch.
That sounds great, SPHP! Drive a little faster, would you? Don’t want to miss out on the buffalo!
5-22-21, 8:00 PM, 53ºF, Nebraska state line – Of all the rotten luck! Poor Loop wasn’t going to get to see much of anything at Panorama Point, even though the evening light hadn’t completely faded away yet. 20 miles from Panorama Point, SPHP had driven into dense fog.
Standing cheerfully in a raw 20-25 mph E wind next to a big sign at the Nebraska state line, Lupe didn’t seem to realize what that meant yet. By the looks of the big grin on her face, the excited Carolina Dog was still eagerly anticipating all those glorious buffalo spread out across the Nebraska plains, a notion the sign greatly reinforced.
Apparently High Point Bison is the name preferred by the owners of the ranch where Panorama Point is located. Lupe thought it a marvelous name! 0.1 mile N of the High Point Bison sign, SPHP turned L (W) off County Road No. 203. Another sign at the turn explained the rules for public access. Basically a $3.00 per person fee, and no messing around with the buffalo – vehicle access only, no hiking or biking in.
The pay station was out of envelopes, so SPHP just wrote a check and slid it into the red metal drop box.
After paying the fee, there was no gate to open or close entering the ranch, only a cattle guard to drive over, a rather nice convenience on such a blustery, damp evening. Panorama Point was a little over a mile farther W. Sadly, the fog was so thick only the pasture next to the dirt road could be seen during the drive in.
Near the end, the access road curved NW. Lupe was soon standing in fog, light rain, and the chill E wind at Nebraska’s remote state high point, which featured a small monument, a black desk, and a handsome bench placed by the HighpointersFoundation.org.
Of course, the first thing to do was to check out the stone monument.
Next, Lupe went over to have a look at the world from the Highpointers bench.
The world, at least this little chunk of it, looked foggy and damp, and was sorely lacking in the promised buffalo Lupe had come to see.
Come on, Looper, let’s go!
What? Wait a minute, SPHP! Where are all the buffalo? I don’t see any!
I know it, but that’s the way it goes, Loop. They’re probably somewhere out there in the fog, but we can’t stray too far from the RAV4 looking for them. Not allowed. Not to mention that it would be pretty easy to get lost. Wouldn’t be a very fun night outdoors, either, that’s for sure.
But this is a state high point, and we just got here! Aren’t you even going to sign us in at the registry? It must be in that black desk, don’t you think?
Yeah, probably, but no! Forget that! Not going to stand here in the cold wind and miserable rain any longer. Maybe we can come back sometime on a nicer day to sign in and see the buffalo?
SPHP wasn’t going to give in. Reluctantly, Lupe hopped back into the RAV4.
Will you at least promise me we really will come back to see the buffalo some day, SPHP?
Yes, I suppose so. Sorry to have disappointed you this evening, Lupe. Just bad luck. You really will get to see them someday. I promise.
And then, on the short drive out, a minor miracle occurred. Suddenly, the last of the ground fog streamed by and the rain ended. A strong cold wind still blew out of the E, but it was now possible to see. Just S of the road there was a fence. In the evening gloam beyond the fence there was a big wind farm in the distance. Something else was out there, too.
SPHP! Stop! Stop! There they are! The buffaloes!
Like magic, promise kept. And at the end of a wonderful Dingo Vacation, yet another Dingo dream come true!
Not much of an artist are you, SPHP? Can’t even draw a decent stick Dingo!
True, that! But it’s not a stick, Dingo. It’s a topographic map. With all of two contours on it. It’s going to have to do.
We’re going to rely on that?
Yeppers. Can’t waste any more time trying to print out a decent map. No telling where we might wind up with this wonderful homemade navigation tool, but we’ve got to get going.
Why can’t you print out a map? Is the printer broken?
No, I don’t think so. The computer and the printer are just having a spat. They’re refusing to talk to each other. Probably angry and upset by something one of these automatic Windows 10 updates said. I see that the printer got all huffy and “migrated” on 3-9-18. I never told it to do that, and it never asked for permission. It just took off on its own free artificial intelligence.
Migrated? Are you blind, SPHP? The printer is right there, still on your desk. It never goes anywhere.
Oh, you would be surprised, Looper. It migrates digitally. In this case, off to Noprintyland again, where it loves to wander off to every chance it gets.
So even though the printer is still right here, you’re saying it’s off having adventures of its own in Noprintyland?
Sounds strange, but yeah, that’s about the size of it.
Doesn’t make a lick of sense to me! Are you feeling, OK?
Yes, I’m fine. Anyway, come on! Time to hit the road!
Due to colder than normal wintry weather, Lupe hadn’t really been much of anywhere for a whole month. The snow had been melting the last couple of days, though, and today was supposed to be really nice. Loopster was ready for action – had been for weeks, but SPHP just kept driving. The American Dingo had a fun time barking at cows, but was still glad when SPHP finally parked the G6.
Lupe hopped out. She was at a familiar place, Cascade Falls along Hwy 71 at the S end of the Black Hills. Although Cascade Falls is a popular swimming and wading spot in the summer, no one was here now.
Let’s go take a look at the falls, Looper.
Lupe would have been perfectly happy staying at Cascade Falls, but that wasn’t her destination today. She was just here to stretch her legs for a few minutes, then it was back in the G. The drive S continued.
Nebraska! That sign said Nebraska! Are we going to cousin Dusty’s house in Colorado, SPHP? You sure packed light this time.
No, we aren’t going all the way to Colorado, Looper. We’re going back to Toadstool Geologic Park to explore part of the Hudson Meng Bison Trail. Remember when you took the Fossil Loop Trail a couple of years ago? That was in Toadstool Geologic Park.
Oh, yeah! That was awesome exploring the Nebraska badlands! Had to watch out for cactus, though. So we’re going back to take the Bison Trail now? Will we get to see the Hudson Meng Bison Kill? Oh, I hope so! Just think of it, SPHP, the bones of 600 bison, just laying there waiting to be gnawed on! Why, I will be the richest Dingo on earth with a treasure like that!
No, we’re not going all the way to Hudson Meng. Sorry. I don’t think it’s open this time of year. They wouldn’t let you chew on their bison bones, anyway. You wouldn’t like it if they did. Those bones are 10,000 year old fossils now. You’re a bit late getting to them.
Oh, too bad. So what are we gonna do then?
We’re going to take the Hudson Meng Bison Trail up the Big Cottonwood Creek drainage. When we’re out of the badlands, we’ll leave the trail and head S for Roundtop Peak. I’m hoping we’ll get to Pine Butte and Wright Peak, too. You will get to do a lot of exploring.
Oh, some peakbagging! Sounds like fun. Not as much fun as 600 bison bones, though.
Almost immediately after crossing the Nebraska state line, SPHP turned R on Toadstool Road. Toadstool Road was gravel. For a few miles there were spots where the road was mighty wet. The G6 went through huge mud puddles sending a slushy, muddy spray everywhere, but fortunately did not become stuck. The road then improved somewhat, up on higher, drier ground.
12 miles from the N end of Toadstool Road, Lupe saw another sign for Toadstool Geologic Park. SPHP turned R (SW) onto a side road that went up over railroad tracks. Toadstool Geologic Park was only 1.5 miles from here, but SPHP stopped a little before Lupe got there. Her peakbagging objectives for the day were in view.
The road dead ended at a campground. Toadstool Geologic Park was totally deserted when Lupe arrived. SPHP took a quick look at some of the displays, while Lupe sniffed around the campground.
After brief preparations, Lupe and SPHP left the campground heading W on the Fossil Loop Trail. (10:29 AM, 53°F) Lupe was soon among the toadstool rock formations Toadstool Geologic Park is named for.
The Fossil Loop Trail wound among fascinating badlands scenery. Lupe quickly reached a junction with the Hudson Meng Bison Trail.
The Hudson Meng Bison Trail follows Big Cottonwood Creek S for more than a mile. Big Cottonwood Creek didn’t have any cottonwoods along it, so there wasn’t much shade. Most of the year, the creek would have been dry, but there was a shallow stream of snow melt today.
The trail crossed the creek many times. If conditions had been much wetter, this would have meant numerous slogs through deep mud. Clearly this was no place to be when it was wet. Fortunately, it was just dry enough today so SPHP could avoid getting too terribly muddy. Lupe simply forged ahead oblivious to the creek crossings.
Loop hadn’t gone far when she came to a sign saying she was about to leave Toadstool Geologic Park.
The Hudson Meng Bison Trail promptly faded away. Apparently it sees little use. There was seldom any track to follow, but brown posts topped with beige marked the general route.
As Lupe followed Big Cottonwood Creek upstream, it became little more than a trickle. It wasn’t always possible to tell at a glance which way the Hudson Meng Bison Trail went. Other little creeks trickled out of large side canyons and ravines.
The marker posts weren’t numerous, but if Lupe went more than 5 or 10 minutes without seeing one, she had usually taken a wrong turn into a side canyon and had to backtrack. The correct route was almost always toward the W (R) in the canyon with the most vegetation.
Some of the side canyons proved to be interesting detours. Even if they were the wrong way, Lupe had fun on her brief excursions into them.
Only a few days ago, it had still been cold out. With some snow still melting, SPHP wasn’t too worried Lupe would run into rattlesnakes.
However, there was a fair amount of her other prairie nemesis around. Cactus wasn’t super abundant, but it wasn’t uncommon either. SPHP had to watch out for it for Looper. In a few places, SPHP carried Lupe beyond larger cactus patches. Every now and then she stepped on a cactus, and didn’t care for that at all. SPHP then had to pull a few small, but painful spines out of her paws.
For the most part, though, the Carolina Dog was doing fine. She was having a good time sniffing and exploring. The badlands scenery following Big Cottonwood Creek was so beautiful and western looking! It was fun to think about all the strange ancient mammals that used to roam this area millions of years ago. Some of their bones are still hidden as fossils back in these wild looking ravines.
After crossing muddy Big Cottonwood Creek a zillion times, and dodging cactus patches which were becoming more frequent and extensive, Lupe arrived at a fence. The fence had a big open gap in it where what little remained of Big Cottonwood Creek flowed through. Beyond this gap a trail marker could be seen. For the first time, the trail left the creek’s main channel here and entered a narrow side canyon.
The side canyon was V-shaped with steep, crumbly sides. The upper rim of this ravine wasn’t all that much higher than where Lupe was at the bottom. Clearly, the American Dingo would soon be reaching the end of the canyon.
The end of the ravine was steep, but a short climb brought Lupe up onto a vast prairie. A faint, grassy road headed SSE. This was USFS Road No. 918, which would eventually go over a saddle between Roundtop Peak (4,540 ft.) and Pine Butte (4,500 ft.), both now back in view to the S.
A line of Hudson Meng Bison Trail markers led across the prairie heading SW toward another big ravine. This ravine is part of the Whitehead Creek drainage. Following USFS Road No. 918 would have been a little shorter, but Lupe stuck with the Hudson Meng Bison Trail until she got close to the Whitehead Creek ravine instead.
Instead of following the Bison Trail down into the Whitehead Creek drainage, Lupe left the trail heading SE. She stayed on the high ground overlooking the scenic ravine. The rim of the ravine had only a little grass and virtually no cactus. Lupe gained elevation steadily.
0.75 mile from where she’d left the trail, Lupe neared the top of a small hill. Here she had a good view off to the SW from a different angle than before. A higher ridge could now be seen beyond a sharp hill that SPHP had assumed was Wright Peak. Maybe that higher ridge was actually Wright Peak(4,654 ft.)? SPHP wasn’t certain. It seemed like that might make sense.
Consulting the hand-sketched topo map didn’t help. Knowing that Lupe would ultimately be approaching Wright Peak from the E, SPHP hadn’t extended the map any farther W than Wright Peak. Whether or not there was any higher ground beyond it wasn’t shown.
Nothing could be done to extend the map now. Lupe continued up to the top of the small hill. Roundtop Peak was less than 0.5 mile S.
Lupe ended up following USFS Road No. 918 part of the way to the base of Roundtop Peak. She left the road to climb the hill’s surprisingly steep N slope.
A forest fire had occurred in this region in 2012. Most of the pine trees on Roundtop were dead. Quite a few had fallen over. The deadfall made getting to the summit of Roundtop Peak harder than it should have been, but it still didn’t take Loop long to reach the top of the hill.
First things first! Lupe was ready for a break. Water and Taste of the Wild. SPHP ate an apple. For a little while, Loop and SPHP rested with a grand view of the western Nebraska prairie off to the SE. Then it was time to tour Roundtop’s summit.
From the W end of Roundtop Peak’s summit, Lupe had an excellent view of her remaining peakbagging objectives.
The summit of Pine Butte(4,500 ft.) is 0.75 mile WNW of Roundtop. It didn’t take Lupe long to get there. Pine Butte had really been hit hard by the 2012 forest fire. Deadfall littered the summit ridge. Not a single pine tree survived. Worse yet, no small trees had germinated since the fire. Pine Butte will not be worthy of its name again for a long, long time.
From Pine Butte, Lupe could see the Hudson Meng Bison Kill site buildings. The whole place looked deserted.
Wright Peak was Lupe’s next objective. The Carolina Dog left Pine Butte going partway down a S ridge before turning WSW. She crossed two gravel roads and a fairly high ridge between them before reaching hills which should lead her to Wright Peak. Once she was high up in these hills, she skirted along the S side of them continuing SW.
Lupe was now very close to Wright Peak, but SPHP mistakenly believed the American Dingo needed to get all the way to the higher ridge to the SW. This error would never have occurred if the printer had operated correctly this morning. With only SPHP’s crude hand sketched topo map to go on, Lupe and SPHP went right on by the true summit.
It was an interesting trek nonetheless. Lupe arrived up on the higher ridge to find several high points along a series of small rock formations spread out over a relatively large area. All of these high points were nearly equal in elevation, but the one farthest S seemed perhaps a little higher than the others. Lupe and SPHP repeatedly searched around all these high points looking for the Wright survey benchmark, but found nothing. Lupe was actually on Peak 4760.
Looper and SPHP stayed up on Peak 4760 a little while. Not too long, though. The sun was getting low, and it was a long way back to the G6. There was a need for some speed on the return trip, so Lupe wouldn’t get lost down in the Big Cottonwood Creek canyon after dark on the way back to Toadstool Geologic Park.
Since she was in a hurry, Lupe didn’t go back through the hills the way she had come. Instead, she took a grassy road (USFS Road No. 944) that led down a draw. The draw ultimately fed into the larger Sand Creek drainage. This was a faster route, but didn’t bring Lupe close to the real Wright Peak again. So the Carolina Dog never got to climb it, even though SPHP now suspected the truth.
When Lupe reached Sand Creek Road, she headed ESE. She soon saw an intersection with USFS Road No. 918 ahead. Loop cut over to No. 918 and followed it over the little pass between Pine Butte and Roundtop.
Once N of Roundtop Peak, the rest of the journey back simply retraced Lupe’s earlier route to Roundtop. It was a beautiful evening. Both Loop and SPHP had a wonderful time. Enough light remained to navigate the muddy Big Cottonwood Creek crossings and avoid the cacti when Lupe reached the badlands again.
The sun was down by the time Loop was back at Toadstool Geologic Park. As twilight faded, Lupe completed the rest of the Fossil Loop Trail, which brought her back to the campground. (7:23 PM, 47°F) It was a long drive home from here, but the fun wasn’t entirely over yet. Until she reached Hwy 71 again, Lupe stood on SPHP’s lap, her head out the window, barking happily at unseen black cows sniffed on the night air.