Part 2 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
The drive out of the Kenai Peninsula was lovely, but frustrating. Due to uncooperative weather, Lupe was leaving most of the great adventures she’d had planned here undone. Yet SPHP sensed that maybe conditions were actually starting to improve? Even as the Carolina Dog rode in comfort through a series of rain showers, she could always see patches of blue sky out the window of the G6, too.
The decision had been made, though. Lupe was leaving the rainy Kenai Peninsula. Loopster had limited time left for adventures on this Dingo Vacation. SPHP wasn’t willing to hang around the S Alaska coast any longer on no more than mere hope for a sunny day. No matter where Lupe had gone, she had faced rain virtually every day in Alaska. Seemingly bright prospects had been dashed too many times already.
After exiting the Kenai Peninsula, the drive along the Turnagain Arm was spectacularly beautiful. Rays of sunlight streamed dramatically through holes in the cloud cover to illuminate the sea. However, it was raining again by the time Lupe reached Anchorage.
Beyond Anchorage, the rain ended. The pavement on Glen Highway No. 1 was actually dry. Lupe was only going as far as Palmer this evening, and would arrive with several hours of daylight left. SPHP tried to think of something Loopster might be able to do in these few hours. Suddenly an answer sprang to mind. Why Bodenburg Butte(886 ft.), of course! It would be perfect!
SPHP took the exit for Old Glen Highway. A L turn onto Bodenburg Loop Road appeared 3 miles after crossing the bridge over the Knik River. 0.5 mile farther on the R was a gravel parking lot on the S side of Bodenburg Butte. A big, faded wooden sign confirmed that the American Dingo had arrived at the Bodenburg Butte trailhead.
0.5 mile W on Bodenburg Loop Road off Old Glen Highway SE of Palmer, this sign by a gravel parking lot confirmed that Lupe had reached the trailhead for Bodenburg Butte.
A wide, well-worn trail left the parking lot climbing aggressively through forest. Lupe and SPHP started up. (7:15 PM, 52°F) At this rate of climb, it wasn’t going to take long to gain the 770 feet of elevation necessary to reach the top.
Situated several miles SE of Palmer, Bodenburg Butte is a lone hill on otherwise flat ground near the junction of two broad river valleys. A few miles to the SW is the convoluted confluence of the Matanuska and Knik rivers. Bodenburg Butte is a mere bump compared to peaks of the nearby Chugach and Talkeetna Mountains, but was expected to provide Lupe some great views of the two rivers, surrounding mountains, and perhaps even the Knik Arm of the North Pacific Ocean off Cook Inlet.
The trail remained quite steep nearly the entire way. Bodenburg Butte is a locally popular hike. While pausing to catch breath, SPHP visited briefly with several people on their way down. When Lupe was more than halfway to the top, she emerged from the forest. The trail became braided here, offering Looper several paths to choose from. Which path she took hardly mattered. They were all going to the same place.
At the top of Bodenburg Butte, Lupe found a ridge of solid rock. This summit ridge looked like it had been scoured by glaciers once upon a time. In fact, Loop could still see the toe of the likely culprit to the SE.
Lupe reaches the summit of Bodenburg Butte. Photo looks W.Looking up the Knik River valley. The toe of the Knik Glacier (Center) is seen at the far end of the valley. Photo looks SE.Lupe checks out the view of the Knik River valley from Bodenburg Butte.Zoomed in on the toe of the Knik Glacier.
Lupe instantly saw why the hike up Bodenburg Butte is popular. For the amount of effort expended to get to the summit, the visual rewards were fantastic. Looper had splendid views in all directions!
Lupe had splendid 360° views from Bodenburg Butte. The Matanuska River is seen below on the L. Photo looks W.
Wearing a wispy veil of clouds, Pioneer Peak(6,396 ft.) in the Western Chugach Mountains was the closest high peak. Between Bodenburg Butte and Pioneer Peak, Lupe gazed down upon forests and green fields in the Knik River valley.
Pioneer Peak (L) beyond the forests and green fields of the Knik River valley. Photo looks S.Loop on Bodenburg Butte with Pioneer Peak wearing a wispy veil of clouds beyond her. Photo looks S with help from the telephoto lens.
Farther up the Knik River valley, Lupe saw what SPHP presumed were Hale-Bopp Peak(5,800 ft.) and Big Timber Peak(6,772 ft.).
SPHP believes the bare peak seen straight up from Lupe’s head is Hale-Bopp Peak. The higher white peak just to the R of Hale-Bopp is likely Big Timber Peak. The Knik River and toe of the Knik Glacier are on the L. Photo looks SE.Another look with help from the telephoto lens. Hale-Bopp Peak is the bare peak on the L. The first white peak to the R of Hale-Bopp is Big Timber Peak. The even higher white mountain at Center is Devils Club Peak (7,240 ft.).
To the W, the Matanuska River was in view. The Matanuska flows SW to join the Knik River shortly before reaching the Knik Arm of the North Pacific Ocean off Cook Inlet. The confluence of the two rivers was difficult to pick out, but Lupe could clearly see the Knik Arm.
Looking W toward the Matanuska River.Another look at the Matanuska River with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks W.The Matanuska River (R) flows SW towards its confluence with the Knik River (L). The combined river then flows into the Knik Arm of the North Pacific Ocean (far R). Photo looks SW.Another look with help from the telephoto lens. The Matanuska River is seen in the foreground, with the Knik Arm (L) beyond it. Photo looks SW.
Lupe could see the Talkeetna Mountains to the N and NW, where she had recently climbed Hatch Benchmark(4,811 ft.) and taken the Reed Lakes trail to Lynx Peak(6,536 ft.). The sky was quite cloudy in that direction, so the Talkeetnas didn’t show up as well this evening as the closer Chugach Mountains to the E.
Plumley Road (R) heads E from its intersection with Old Glen Highway toward the Chugach Mountains. Photo looks E.
The top of Bodenburg Butte included a fairly large area. Although Lupe had met people coming down on her way up, no one else was on top of Bodenburg Butte when Lupe arrived. An empty bench sat near a trail a little W of the true summit.
The top of Bodenburg Butte from the summit. A bench is seen beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW.
The sun hadn’t set quite yet, but the sky was cloudy enough so the light was already beginning to fade. The trail to the bench continued W beyond it, and apparently went down from over there.
Lupe lingers at the summit of Bodenburg Butte. With all the clouds around, the light was already fading. Soon it would be time to go. Photo looks W.
Why not try an alternate route down? When Lupe and SPHP were done enjoying the views, the Carolina Dog proceeded over to the bench to see if the trail really did go down the W side of Bodenburg Butte from here?
Looking back at the true summit from the trail W of the bench. Photo looks ESE.
It did! In fact, the trail going down the W side of Bodenburg Butte was far better than the steep route Lupe had taken up from the S. The W route had steps where the trail was steepest and a cable railing. This was going to be easy!
The trail down the W side of Bodenburg Butte was far more developed than the steep dirt path Lupe had taken up the S side.
SPHP expected the W trail to loop back toward the S. It didn’t. Instead, it eventually turned N. The American Dingo arrived at a 2nd trailhead N of Bodenburg Butte. This one had a much larger parking lot.
Map of the W trail up Bodenburg Butte posted at the N trailhead. Directions on this map are reversed. N is down, and W is R.
Lupe had made it down, but was now on the wrong side of Bodenburg Butte. She had to follow roads circling around the E side of the butte to get back to the S trailhead. This added more than 2 miles to the return trip, making it a far longer loop than SPHP had envisioned. It was dark when Lupe finally arrived at the G6. (10:31 PM, 51°F)
Other than the assistant manager, who was in the process of getting ready to close, no one else was at Subway in Palmer when SPHP showed up at 10:55 PM. SPHP purchased a footlong sandwich, and was about to leave when the assistant manager offered SPHP unsold cookies that were about to be thrown out. For free! The price was certainly right. Sure, why not?
To Loopster’s delight, SPHP returned with a dozen large cookies. The Carolina Dog’s evening ended with an unexpected Subway cookie feast. A different kind of adventure, but a delicious one!
Day 32 & Part 1 of Day 33 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
8-31-17, 10:00 AM at Bottenintnin Lake on the Kenai Peninsula, Alaska – Of course, it had rained overnight. It rained every day here in Alaska, usually every few hours. It wasn’t raining at 6:00 AM, though, or when SPHP woke up again now, either, but the sky was completely overcast both times. The day really wasn’t looking too promising. Meanwhile, Lupe was off barking in the forest. She must have found a squirrel as soon as she’d escaped the G6. Better go check on her.
Loopster was close by. Yes, she had found a squirrel, almost instantly! If SPHP didn’t think the day was shaping up the way it ought to, she had a different opinion. She was having a good time at Bottenintnin Lake. A forest full of moss, ferns, squirrels and exotic aromas was a Dingo playground. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was a busy girl, and in no hurry to leave.
Lupe at Bottenintnin Lake where she had spent the night after visiting Skilak Lookout yesterday afternoon.Well, hello there sleepyhead! Up so soon? Not even noon yet. Don’t get any big ideas now. It’s a cloudy day, so we may as well stay here at Bottenintnin Lake where there is plenty of fun stuff for a Dingo to do!The squirrel watching is excellent!And there’s lots of important sniffing to do, too, if you will excuse me a moment.And of course, there’s this lovely lake. Bottenintnin Lake is shallow and full of water lilies. Seems like a great place for waterfowl, SPHP, but I haven’t seen any yet. Maybe if we hang around, though, we’ll see some?
Loopster was right. No need to rush off given the weather. If she wanted to bark at squirrels and play in the forest for a while, why not?
11:23 AM – The trip journal was caught up. Loop was back in the G6, her good times squirrel watching cut short by a steady rain. The day was looking gloomier and gloomier. What to do? Two choices. The first was to cut and run. The current weather on the Kenai Peninsula wasn’t conducive to outdoor adventures. No sign it was going to clear up, either. Maybe it was best to go back to Palmer, and then just keep going until Lupe found sunshine somewhere far from the rainy S Alaska coast?
The other option was to carry on as originally planned. Head W all the way to Homer, and hope that the weather would improve by tomorrow. If it did, Loopster could take a water taxi across Kachemak Bay like she did last year when she got to spend a fabulous day on Grace Ridge in Kachemak Bay State Park. This year, the Grewingk Glacier might be a fun adventure.
Yes, I kind of gathered that. Did you change your mind? Are we going to Homer after all?
Yeah, I can’t stand the thought that we’re leaving after getting so close. Might be a complete waste of time, but let’s give it one more day. You never know, the weather might clear up and be beautiful like it did last year. We have an awful lot of great stuff we can do on the Kenai Peninsula, if we can catch a break. If it doesn’t work out, at least we tried.
3:20 PM, 52°F at the Cook Inlet beach at Ninilchik – So far, still not too promising. Lupe had just had a bit of luck, though. When she arrived at Ninilchik, the rain had quit for a little while. She’d just had a good romp along Cook Inlet before the rain started in again.
A year ago, Lupe had spent a wonderful evening here in Ninilchik. She’d had gorgeous views of both Iliamna Volcano(10,016 ft.) and Redoubt Volcano(10,197 ft.) far across Cook Inlet as the sun went down behind the mountains. Nothing like that today. Dull, gray clouds hid everything except the ocean and the nearby beach, but watching seagulls and listening to the roar of the waves as they collapsed exhausting their energy on the beach had been fun.
When Lupe arrived at Ninilchik, the rain had abated for a little while. As a result, she got to enjoy a romp along Cook Inlet.Not standing here long, SPHP. The tide is coming in. Let me know if you see one of those sneaker waves coming up behind me!Even though we can’t see the volcanoes across Cook Inlet today, it’s always fun to take a stroll along the beach, isn’t it, SPHP?Looper along Cook Inlet near Ninilchik on the Kenai Peninsula.
By 5:00 PM, Lupe was in Homer near the end of Sterling Highway No. 1. Sadly, the weather showed no signs of improving. Only the base of the mountains across Kachemak Bay could be seen beneath low clouds. A heavy mist was falling as SPHP drove out to the Homer Spit.
Despite the gloomy atmosphere, Homer Spit was alive with activity. Vehicles and people in rain gear were everywhere. SPHP dropped by a restaurant, and got an order of fish and chips to go. Lupe didn’t care for them, preferring salami and English muffins. Oatmeal cookies for dessert. Together Loop and SPHP sat in the G6 having dinner, while watching rain and fog over Kachemak Bay.
6:32 PM, 52°F, rain and fog at the Homer Spit – After dinner, Lupe went with SPHP to Mako’s Water Taxi to inquire about prospects for a trip across Kachemak Bay to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow. Unfortunately, it didn’t take a rocket scientist to realize what a long shot this was likely to be.
Despite long odds, Lupe went with SPHP to inquire at Mako’s Water Taxi about the prospects for a trip across Kachemak Bay to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow.In 2016, Lupe had sailed across Kachemak Bay aboard Mako’s water taxi “Xtra Tuff” to enjoy a fabulous day on Grace Ridge.As a former customer, Loop hoped the good people at Mako’s could do something about this weather for her, but they weren’t making any promises.
Lupe could go to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow, if she wanted to. The price of the round trip water taxi ride across Kachemak Bay was $80.33 including all taxes and fees. That was the good news. No problem, if that was the only consideration. However, there was the all important weather issue, too. The people at Mako’s weren’t expecting much change in the weather anytime soon.
Well, if that turned out to be true, no Grewingk Glacier trip for Loopster. No sense in spending $80.33 to spend a whole day soaking wet, cold and miserable. Disappointing, but not unexpected. Nothing to be done about it, except wait to see what things looked like in the morning.
Despite fog and light rain, after leaving Mako’s, Loop and SPHP took a walking tour of the Homer Spit. Lupe saw many boats on the protected NE side of the spit.
Lupe saw many boats moored on the protected NE side of Homer Spit.
Loop also visited Kachemak Bay on the unprotected SW side of the spit. The ocean was still beautiful despite the dismal sky.
On the unprotected SW side of Homer Spit next to Kachemak Bay. Photo looks SSE.Looking NNW along Homer Spit.Not looking too good for another boat ride tomorrow, is it, SPHP? …. No, afraid not, Looper.
After a damp stroll along Kachemak Bay, Loopster went to take a look at some of the shops along Homer Spit’s main drag. All sorts of adventures were being advertised! It all sounded like fun, but Lupe and SPHP were set on going to see the Grewingk Glacier tomorrow.
Bears were a top draw at places advertising wildlife adventures.Fishing adventures, especially for halibut, were apparently the most popular here.Sea kayaking was popular, too.
As the evening wore on, already faint hopes for the Grewingk Glacier dream were fading fast. Sometimes it rained, sometimes it didn’t, but the sky looked like it could rain forever.
9-1-17, 7:29 AM, 45°F – Seemed like a long night. Rained off and on for hours. But what was this?
Loopster, look, blue sky!
Oh, maybe we’re in luck!
Can you believe it? Maybe not, though. Still some clouds around.
Well, let’s go see what we can find out! Drive us back to Mako’s, SPHP!
When Lupe and SPHP returned to Homer Spit, there was a lot of blue sky around. So encouraging, but would it last? Before going to Mako’s, Lupe ran down to Kachemak Bay. There was a rainbow over the ocean!
Upon returning to Homer Spit in the morning, Lupe saw a rainbow over Kachemak Bay. Photo looks SW.
The rainbow wasn’t all the American Dingo could see. High snow and ice clad peaks of Kachemak Bay State Park were in sight across the bay! Looper could even see Grace Ridge, where she had such a good time last year. Suddenly, prospects for a Grewingk Glacier adventure were looking bright!
Most of the sky was clear! Lupe could see high snow and ice clad peaks of Kachemak Bay State Park across the bay. Photo looks SSE.Oh, this looks promising, SPHP! Maybe we can go see the Grewingk Glacier today, after all!Grace Ridge(3,136 ft.) (Center) where Lupe had such a great adventure in 2016 was in view, too. It was all so encouraging! Photo looks S.
Lupe and SPHP inquired again at Mako’s. Lupe could sail at 9:00 AM, with a 9:30 AM arrival at Glacier Spit. 4:00 PM pickup at Saddle Point. Total price was still $80.33. Yes, yes, yes! Want to book it?
Hold on. And the weather forecast?
Supposed to close in again, and get nasty around noon.
Oh.
Loop and SPHP went back to the G6 to think about it. Not much time to decide. 15 minutes. The sun was still shining on Kachemak Bay. The rainbow was bigger and brighter than before.
Sadly, there really wasn’t much to think over.
Sorry, Looper.
I’m not going to get to see the Grewingk Glacier, am I, SPHP?
Nope. ‘Fraid not.
The rainbow and all the blue sky had my hopes up.
Mine too. That’s the way the cookie crumbles, though.
So, now what?
Well, I don’t suppose there’s any sense hanging around here now. Weather is supposed to be OK for a little while yet. Maybe we can go to Anchor Point, and you can visit the Rock of the West again? Anchor Point isn’t far from here.
Oh, wasn’t that where all the seagulls were last year? That was fun!
OK then, let’s do it!
SPHP had bought a postcard of the Homer Spit yesterday evening for Lupe to send to her Grandma. Looper told SPHP what to write on it, making sure to send lots of love. The rainbow was still shining brightly over the ocean as Lupe and SPHP drove away from Homer Spit. SPHP stopped to mail the postcard before leaving Homer. When SPHP came out of the post office, it was raining hard. (9:03 AM, 47°F)
Sheesh, Loopster, glad we didn’t spend $80.33! We would have enjoyed blue skies only until the moment of departure.
Sigh. Don’t suppose we will even get to go to the Rock of the West now.
Not true! Astonishingly, when Lupe arrived at Anchor Point (9:59 AM, 52°F), skies were sunny here. Distant mountains N of Cook Inlet were cloaked in clouds, but the sky over the ocean was clear and bright.
Lupe returns to Anchor Point for a repeat of her 2016 Last Mile West journey along Cook Inlet.
After leaving the G6, Lupe and SPHP traveled S along the beach. SPHP ambled along watching the sky, listening to the restless sea, and enjoying the breeze. Lupe barked at seagulls flying by, and sniffed seaweed and odd bits and pieces of things from the ocean, all while dodging incoming waves.
Lupe by Cook Inlet, an arm of the North Pacific Ocean at Anchor Point. Photo looks W.
Loopster had been to Anchor Point in 2016, too. She had explored this same stretch of beach. Since no road connected to the North American highway system goes any farther W than Anchor Point, Lupe was as far W here on this beach as she was ever likely to be in her entire life.
Lupe had taken this same stroll along the beach S from Anchor Point in 2016. At the time, SPHP believed the Carolina Dog was as far W as she would ever be in her life. Yet only a little more than a year later, here she was again. Photo looks SW.
Earlier on this Dingo Vacation, Lupe had returned to the Brooks Range and broken her 2016 Last Mile North record for how far N she had ever been by continuing N on the Dalton Highway all the way to Deadhorse near the Arctic Ocean.
Lupe couldn’t break her 2016 Last Mile West record today. All she could do was tie it. The ocean prevented her from going any farther W than this beach. Even so, it was remarkable to think the American Dingo had actually returned to this remote place.
Lupe stands among strands of seaweed on her 2017 Last Mile West trek along the beach at Anchor Point. Photo looks W.
As Lupe continued S along the beach, it was evident that not taking the water taxi to the Grewingk Glacier across Kachemak Bay from Homer Spit had been a good decision. The sky to the S toward Kachemak Bay looked dark and stormy. Heavy rain was falling over that way.
The sky to the S was dark and stormy. Not taking the water taxi to see the Grewingk Glacier had been a good decision. Photo looks S.
Lupe was having a good time on the beach here, so things were working out about as well as they could have today.
Lupe was staying busy and having fun on the beach S of Anchor Point. Photo looks SSW.Loopster races by a big patch of seaweed. Fun times! Way better than getting drenched would have been.
For about an hour, Loop and SPHP continued S along the beach. SPHP thought Lupe made it at least as far S as she had gone in 2016. Back then, Lupe had stood on a dark rock next to the ocean before turning around to return to Anchor Point. That dark rock had been officially dubbed the Rock of the West, representing the farthest point W Lupe had ever been.
SPHP had expected to be able to recognize the Rock of the West again, but hadn’t seen it. Maybe the tide was higher or lower now than a year ago? Entirely possible. If the Rock of the West was underwater, SPHP wouldn’t have seen it for sure. Since 2016’s Rock of the West couldn’t be found, Lupe climbed up on a different boulder. This greenish boulder could serve as 2017’s official Rock of the West.
Lupe astride the all new, 2017 official Rock of the West. Photo looks W.Lupe never seemed very comfortable up on the 2017 Rock of the West. Photo looks S.Is that rock slippery or what, Loop? You are perched so strangely on it! Photo looks SW.I did come back to my westernmost point ever, didn’t I, SPHP? …. You certainly did, Looper! Congratulations! Photo looks NW.
The stroll back to Anchor Point was beautiful and relaxing. Loop and SPHP were in no rush. Lupe’s home in the Black Hills of South Dakota is a long way from any ocean. Being next to the ocean all the way up here in Alaska was such a treat! Lupe and SPHP savored every moment.
Looking N across Cook Inlet.White sub-peaks of Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.) stick up out of the clouds on the L. The true summit is hidden from view. In 2016, Lupe had seen it. Photo looks NW.Seagulls afloat on Cook Inlet.Looking S one more time. The weather didn’t seem to have improved much. At least the rain stayed down there while Lupe enjoyed her 2017 Last Mile West.
Lupe caught glimpses of the Iliamna Volcano(10,016 ft.), but she never did see Iliamna’s true summit or any of Redoubt Volcano(10,197 ft.) like she had in 2016. Both volcanoes remained hidden by the clouds on the far side of Cook Inlet. However, Loopster could clearly make out the Augustine Volcano(4,025 ft.), which is on an island of its own making, even though it was far across the water on the SW horizon.
This is a far more comfortable rock than that slick green one you chose to be the 2017 Rock of the West, SPHP. You should have picked this one instead!Nearing Anchor Point again at the end of Lupe’s 2017 Last Mile West trek. She’d had a great time! Living as far from the sea as she does, even short adventures along the ocean are a rare treat for Loop. Photo looks NE.
Seagulls flew by, then either landed to rest on Cook Inlet, or joined flocks strutting about farther along the beach. A fresh breeze blew out of the SW. Waves rolled into shore, retreated, reformed, and resumed their ceaseless attacks on the coast. Puffy white clouds plied a blue, blue sky above the sea.
It was all wonderful! When Lupe reached Anchor Point again, she stood with SPHP near the shore, watching and listening to the waves roll in a while longer.
Lupe’s last moments near the North Pacific Ocean in 2017. Photo looks NW.By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea.
After returning to the G6 (12:22 PM), Loop and SPHP still sat watching the ocean while sharing English muffins and salami again for lunch. A peaceful, leisurely hour went by. When lunch was over, it was time to move on. (1:40 PM, 54°F)
Sadly, after only a single brief day, Lupe was leaving the Kenai Peninsula. If the weather had been better and more reliable, she had a week’s worth of adventures planned here. As SPHP drove toward Soldotna, there were signs that maybe the weather was going to improve. Sunny skies prevailed over Cook Inlet. Even to the S, where rain showers were in progress, patches of blue sky could now be seen over the mountains.
But SPHP had no faith that the weather was really going to clear up and stay that way. It was September now. Maybe it was time to leave rainy Alaska? Lupe did have an alternate backup plan in case the Kenai Peninsula didn’t work out. Perhaps it was time to put it into action?
Months ago, Lupe’s friend, Australian adventurer Luke Hall, whom she had met at the top of Gunsight Mountain in 2016, had recommended that the Carolina Dog visit Tombstone Territorial Park in the Yukon. SPHP had been thinking Lupe wouldn’t have time to get over there on this Dingo Vacation, but she still could, if she started that way now.
Several hours after leaving Anchor Point, Lupe was restless. She was ready to get out of the G6 and do something. Since Bottenintnin Lake wasn’t that far away now, SPHP asked if she like to make the short side trip off Sterling Highway No. 1 to visit the lake again for a little while?
Bottenintnin Lake where there were lots of squirrels in the forest? The American Dingo’s response was most enthusiastic!
Oh, yes, all you Dingoes out there. I highly recommend the blue ribbon squirrel watching here at Bottenintnin Lake next time you’re in the area! Photo looks S.Oh, I won’t go far, SPHP! There’s plenty of squirrels in this forest close by. Call if you need me! I’ll be back in a bit.
