Category: 2013 Beartooths/Canadian Rockies

Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-31-13)

Early on the morning of 7-31-13, the day after Lupe’s explorations up the glorious Berg Lake Trail to see Mt. Robson and Berg Lake, Lupe and SPHP headed S in the G6 back towards Jasper.  It was the 23rd Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation, and time to start the long drive back home.  There wasn’t any huge rush though – there was still time for a few more great Dingo adventures along the way!

From Jasper, Lupe and SPHP continued S along the beautiful Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  SPHP stopped the G6 at a pullout a few km before reaching the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.  The pullout provided an excellent spot to admire the upper Sunwapta River Valley, and a portion of the Columbia Icefield beyond.  At this point, the Sunwapta River is just a braided stream bearing little resemblance to the mighty river it becomes further N by the time it roars over Sunwapta Falls.

The Sunwapta River Valley & the Columbia Icefield from the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
The Sunwapta River Valley & the Columbia Icefield from the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
Lupe wasn't concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road.
Lupe wasn’t concentrating much on the view from the pullout along the highway. Instead she seemed plenty happy just hiding out in the lush foliage near the road.

While still in the area of the Columbia Icefield, SPHP thought it would be a good idea for Lupe to check out the Wilcox Pass Trail before leaving Jasper National Park.  Just a few km S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier is a short gravel road on the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 which goes to the Wilcox Creek Campground.  The Wilcox Pass Trailhead is located along this gravel road immediately before the road reaches the campground.

Wilcox Pass is only a 4 km hike from the trailhead, but until nearing the pass, most of the way the trail climbs pretty steeply.  It starts off winding around through a forest, but the forest thins out about the time the trail comes around a bend and reaches the first stunning views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding mountains.

The Athabasca Glacier comes into view along the Wilcox Pass Trail.
The Athabasca Glacier comes into view along the Wilcox Pass Trail.
The Dome Glacier between Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener from the Wilcox Pass Trail.
The Dome Glacier (C) between Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) (L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft.) (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.
Mt. Athabasca (L), Mt. Andromeda (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R)from the Wilcox Pass Trail.
Mt. Athabasca (11, 453 ft.) (L), Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) (C) and the Athabasca Glacier (R) from the Wilcox Pass Trail.

There were lots of people on the trail.  It was easy to understand why.  The already amazing views became better and better as the trail continued climbing above the remaining forest.  Eventually the trail reached the high point of Wilcox Pass, which proved to be at a very broad, gently sloping open area of heather dotted with small ponds and streams.

The trail continued NNW on over the pass to the E of Mount Wilcox, but the best views were clearly going to be towards the SW in the direction of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding peaks.  Lupe and SPHP left the pass heading that direction.  Lupe loved the open high ground along the way.  Pretty soon, Lupe and SPHP arrived at the edge of a ridge situated 1,400 feet above and just NE of the Icefields Center.

The views of the Athabasca Glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks from Lupe’s final perch were astonishing.  Photos barely begin to convey the sense of height, space and frozen splendor inspired by the icy panoramic sweep of the towering mountains and gleaming white glaciers that met Lupe’s gaze from that high ridge.  More of the dazzling Columbia Icefield shone brilliantly above the glaciers than Lupe and SPHP had ever seen before, yet even that was still just a tiny part of the whole.  In an instant, the Wilcox Pass Trail became Lupe and SPHP’s favorite half-day hike in the Canadian Rockies or anywhere else.

Lupe at the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass.
Lupe at the viewpoint SW of Wilcox Pass.
Mount Athabasca from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass.
Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) from the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass.
Mount Andromeda & the Athabasca Glacier
Mount Andromeda (11,286 ft.) & the Athabasca Glacier
Lupe relaxes with Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) in the background.
Lupe stays alert while relaxing with Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) (L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft.) (R) in the background.
This shot shows the Icefields Centre and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge.
This shot shows the Icefields Centre and Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 both 1,400 feet below the ridge.

Lupe and SPHP stayed at the edge of the ridge SW of Wilcox Pass for a long time.  It seemed like a shame to ever leave, but time waits for no Dingo, nor even any Carolina Dogs.  Fortunately Carolina Dogs are immensely practical.  Lupe was in high spirits on the return trip from the SW ridge back across the heather to the Wilcox Pass Trail, and on down to the G6.

A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) on the way down the Wilcox Pass Trail.
A last look at Snow Dome (L) and Mt. Kitchener (R) from near the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Lupe and SPHP resumed the drive heading S over Sunwapta Pass, the border between Jasper and Banff National Parks.  The Wilcox Pass Trail had been so wonderful, SPHP had already started thinking about what else Lupe could still do this day.  So, just 5.5 miles S of the pass, SPHP turned off the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 to the Nigel Creek trailhead.  The map at the trailhead showed that it was 7 km up to Nigel Pass.  The first part of the trail was actually a continuation of the gravel road to the trailhead.  Lupe and SPHP set off for Nigel Pass.

Lupe was quite ready for another adventure, but after trudging up the road 0.5 mile or so, SPHP realized it wasn’t really going to happen.  After the 42 km round trip up to Berg Lake and Mt. Robson the previous day, and hardly a break after the climb up to Wilcox Pass, SPHP didn’t really have the steam left to continue – at least, not for a little while.  It was time to rest.  Lupe was surely puzzled when SPHP turned around and led her back to the G6.  The beautiful drive S on the Icefields Parkway resumed.

Near the Waterfowl Lakes campground, SPHP parked the G6 again.  SPHP still wanted to do something easy that Lupe would like.  After a bit to eat, Lupe and SPHP walked through the campground and took the bridge over the lovely Mistaya River.  Lupe followed the same trail she had just a few days before to Chephren and Cirque Lakes.

This trail gains very little elevation while proceeding through a dense forest.  With the campground closed for the summer for repairs to the flood-damaged water system, no one was around.  The trail was abandoned.  It was a pleasant, easy stroll through the very quiet forest.  At least, it had been quiet until an American Dingo arrived.  Lupe found lots of squirrels to bark at along the way.  Her excitement rang through the forest.  She was having a most excellent time.

This time, the junction where the trail divides to go to either Chephren or Cirque Lake was as far as Lupe and SPHP went before turning around.  Gradually twilight was coming on.  The squirrels started hitting the hay.  Slowly the darkening forest grew quiet again.  By 10:00 PM, Lupe was back snoozing peacefully in the G6.

Did she dream about the scenic wonders of Wilcox Pass, or the squirrels in the forest?  SPHP bet on the squirrels.Lupe at Wilcox Pass 7-31-13

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Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

Nigel Pass & Panther Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-31-14)

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Mount Edith Cavell, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-13)

On 7-28-13, Day 19 of her 2013 Dingo Vacation, Lupe visited Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls in Jasper National Park.  After seeing both of these impressive waterfalls, it was still early afternoon, so there was plenty of time for Lupe to look for more adventures.  From Athabasca Falls, SPHP drove N on Hwy 93A instead of returning to the main Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.  Although paved, Hwy 93A proved to be much more of a back woods road than the main highway.  It was bumpy and patchy, and didn’t have much traffic on it.

A paved side road leading W to Moab Lake (7 km) looked interesting, but shortly after getting on it, the pavement ended.  The gravel road that continued onward was full of stones and potholes.  It wasn’t long before SPHP gave up on the Moab Lake idea, and turned the G6 around to return to Hwy 93A and continue N.  Eventually Lupe & SPHP reached the side road to Mount Edith Cavell (11,033 ft.) the main attraction SPHP was aware of accessible from Hwy 93A.

The road to Mt. Edith Cavell was 14 km long, very narrow and windy, but all paved and in beautiful, almost new condition.  It started raining lightly as the G6 wound its way up the mountain.  After quite a distance, Lupe and SPHP arrived at a very small pullout with an overview of a cloudy, but gorgeous mountain valley with a river running through it far below.  Snowy peaks were visible at the upper end miles to the NW.

The Tonquin Valley from the road to Mount Edith Cavell. This looked like a beautiful place to explore, but unfortunately for Lupe, dogs are not allowed in Tonquin Valley.
The Tonquin Valley from the road to Mount Edith Cavell. This looked like a beautiful place to explore, but unfortunately for Lupe, dogs are not allowed in Tonquin Valley.

A sign a bit farther along the road indicated that Lupe and SPHP had just seen a portion of the famous Tonquin Valley.  Unfortunately for Lupe, Tonquin Valley is closed to dogs.  It looked like a beautiful place to explore.

After winding around on the road a bit longer, Lupe and SPHP were getting quite close to Mount Edith Cavell.  The place was so busy, it wasn’t even possible to get to the large parking lot.  There were cars parked along the road well before the parking lot was reached.  SPHP parked the G6 by the side of the road, too.  By now the weather had closed in enough so clouds hid the top of Mount Edith Cavell, while it continued to sprinkle rain.  It was still only about 2:30 PM.  Lupe and SPHP stayed in the G6 and took a nap in the hope that the weather would eventually clear.

SPHP awoke a bit after 5:00 PM to find that it was raining harder, not less.  Quite a few cars had left, but Mt. Edith Cavell must be a very popular destination as cars continued to come and go despite the rain.  SPHP moved the G6 forward to the main paved parking lot, which was now less than 1/2 full.  Lupe stared out the window and watched people, while SPHP wrote in the trip journal.

By 6:45 PM, the rain had stopped.  There were only 5 or 6 other cars left in the parking lot.  The sky was still completely overcast and it was a chilly 45°F out.  Lupe and SPHP hopped out of the G6 and took the not very long trek (about 20 minutes one way) up the trail to see Mount Edith Cavell.  There was a clear view of much of the mountain, including the Angel Glacier, but the top of the mountain remained shrouded in clouds.  There was more trail to explore, but signs said the rest of it was closed to Dingoes.  Since everything was still wet and gloomy, Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6.

The next morning (7-29-13 and Day 20 of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation), everything had changed.  At 6:30 AM, Lupe and SPHP headed back up the trail to Mount Edith Cavell as far as Lupe was allowed to go.  It was a brisk morning (32°F according to the G6), but the skies were clear and the sun was shining on the mountain.  No one else was around yet.  Lupe and SPHP enjoyed the silent majesty of the scene.

Mount Edith Cavell
Mount Edith Cavell
The melt pond at the base of Mount Edith Cavell. This was as close as Lupe was allowed to get according to signs.
The mostly ice-filled melt pond at the base of Mount Edith Cavell. This was as close as Lupe was allowed to get according to signs.
An arm of the Angel Glacier hangs down from Mount Edith Cavell.
An arm of the Angel Glacier hangs down from Mount Edith Cavell.

Angel Glacier, Mount Edith Cavell 7-29-13SPHP knew that it wouldn’t be long before people would start coming.  Since Lupe wasn’t permitted to explore any of the additional trails, all too soon it was time for Lupe and SPHP to start back down the valley to the G6.

A look N back down the valley from Mount Edith Cavell.
A look N back down the valley from Mount Edith Cavell.
Lupe on the Mount Edith Cavell trail.
Lupe on the Mount Edith Cavell trail.

From Mount Edith Cavell, Lupe and SPHP went on to Jasper, a pretty and busy little tourist town.  Coming into town, Lupe was very interested in 2 female elk with fawns standing right on the road!

Since Lupe had been cooped up in the G6 much of the previous afternoon and all of the evening, SPHP knew she really needed a longer walk than she had at Edith Cavell.  Along the road to Pyramid Lake, SPHP found a trailhead on the edge of town.  Lupe and SPHP spent a couple of hours hiking trails No. 8, 6 & 6A.  The trails made a loop past a swamp and through the forest, eventually going past Patricia Lake.  Best of all there were lots of squirrels in the trees to bark at!  Lupe had an exciting time of it, although SPHP was a bit concerned about how noisy the Dingo was this close to town.

Although there wasn’t much elevation change on this loop, near the end on trail No. 6A, the trail climbed a small hill with a clearing from which there was a nice view of Mount Edith Cavell off in the distance.  After having just been there, SPHP now recognized Mount Edith Cavell as the mountain frequently featured on postcards of the town of Jasper.

During the rest of the day, Lupe got to spent a little time at the beach at Pyramid Lake near Jasper and then enjoyed a scenic drive to Miette Hot Springs.  At the picnic ground there, Lupe endured an hour of temptation, while a herd of 6 or 7 bighorn sheep panhandled from all the picnickers and bold squirrels did the same.  Despite ineffective signs everywhere insisting that people shouldn’t feed the bighorn sheep, they were so tame and used to getting their way, people could pat them without them even backing away.

However, when the bighorn sheep got too close to an excitable Dingo which barked furiously and lunged at them (restrained by a leash, of course), the bighorns did seem to think that was a bit rude.  They gave the foamy-mouthed Dingo a wider berth for a little while, but kept forgetting the experience.  The bighorn sheep had to be repeatedly reminded by the Dingo that they looked like Dingo food.  The squirrels only had to be told once, but chattered taunts and insults back from the safety of the trees.  It was almost more than an American Dingo could bear.

The picnic finally done, Lupe was relegated to the G6 for a while, during which time SPHP had a marvelous alternately relaxing, soothing and invigorating time at the Miette Hot Springs, which features a big hot pool, a big warm pool, and much smaller cool and frigid pools.  All-day admission was only $6.05 Canadian for as long as one wanted to stay, an absolute bargain compared to anything else in the Canadian Rockies!  Miette Hot Springs was fabulous!  If Carolina Dogs could have gone in the hot springs, Lupe and SPHP would have stayed there a couple of days.

By evening Lupe and a much cleaner SPHP were back at Jasper again.  Across a bridge over the Athabasca River from Jasper, Lupe and SPHP found a trail around nearby Lake Annette for an evening stroll.  About 1/4 of the way around the lake though, a couple with a baby in a stroller and a dog approached from the opposite direction.  They said their dog had found and treed a bear cub just a few minutes earlier.  Since momma bear was likely still around somewhere close at hand, and not likely to be entirely pleased with the situation, they were beating a hasty retreat to their vehicle.

Bear hunting in the Canadian Rockies sounded even more exciting than bighorn sheep hunting to Lupe.  SPHP had to admit it would sound impressive to the folks back home.  But the cowardly SPHP quickly overruled and headed for the G6 to end all possibility of a truly exciting end to the day and a most memorable blog post.

Edith Cavell was a British nurse who lived in German-occupied Belgium during WW1. She indiscriminately helped save the lives of soldiers of both sides during the war. However, she also helped 200 allied soldiers escape to the Netherlands or England. For this she was found guilty of treason by the Germans and executed by firing squad. She never saw the mountain in the Canadian Rockies that was eventually named after her. The Indian name for the mountain was White Ghost.
Edith Cavell was a British nurse who lived in German-occupied Belgium during WW1. She indiscriminately helped save the lives of soldiers of both sides during the war. However, she also helped 200 allied soldiers escape to the Netherlands or England. For this she was found guilty of treason by the Germans and executed by firing squad. She never saw the mountain in the Canadian Rockies that was eventually named in her honor. The Indian name for the mountain translates as White Ghost.

Links:

Next Adventure                      Prior Adventure

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.