Category: 2022

Day 28 & Part 1 of Day 29 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-26-22, 9:25 AM, 53ºF, Dalton Highway, roughly MP 291 –  Uh-oh!  The pilot car was slowing down and pulling over.

You can’t walk here!  This is an active construction zone.  You can walk on the tundra.  Get off the highway!

No problem!  Intended to leave it in just a couple more minutes, but we’ll get off it right now.

Where do you think you’re going, anyway?

SPHP waved a pole N.  Imnavait!

Evidently surprised, the pilot car lady smiled.

Oh!  Well, have fun!

We will!  Our car is parked 100 feet off the highway along the side road back on that last hill.  Is it OK to leave it there?

That’s fine!

Pilot car lady smiled again, waving as she drove off.  Lupe left the N side of the Dalton Highway as the line of cars and huge trucks following the pilot car began streaming by.

Down on the tundra, SPHP consulted the topo map again.  Scarcely any contours at all on it for a long way, but SPHP was 99% certain Lupe was in the right place.

Well, shucks, Loop.  Hoped we wouldn’t have to leave the Dalton until we got to the next rise, but this will do.  At least we got E of the river before getting kicked off.  Shouldn’t have to ford anything now.

So we head N from here to the big hill we saw from the highway, SPHP?

Pretty much it, Loopster.  Only 0.5 mile to HP2810.  Imnavait ought to be in sight from there again.  This is either going to be awesome or ghastly.  Should know which soon enough.  If it’s too bad, we’ll cut our losses and retreat.  Sure hope we don’t have to do that, though.  Been waiting for this moment for 5 years, ever since you climbed Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.).

After starting a GPS track, it was Onward!  Puppy, ho!

8-26-22, earlier at the Galbraith Lake Campground – The morning had started out a little iffy.  The Carolina Dog woke to a uniformly overcast sky, and rain on the RAV4.  Didn’t amount to much, though.  Hardly even got the ground wet before it was over and done with.  Uncertain what was going to happen, SPHP got the pack ready, just in case.

8-26-22, 8:03 AM, 50ºF – Lupe was on her way.  Things were looking up!  Off to the SE, the sun was trying to break through the clouds, and a big patch of blue sky was to the N.  Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP turned N.  After going up the first big hill, sunlight was on the tundra by Lake 2892 at the edge of the North Slope.

The Dalton Highway turned E at Toolik Lake.  A few miles later, SPHP ran into road construction.  16 miles of it!  Loopster didn’t need to go anywhere near that far.  Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) was already in sight.  The best place to start for it was only 3 or 4 miles farther, from a ridge in Section 21 between a tributary of the Kuparuk River to the W, and the Toolik River to the E.

The road construction messed up that plan.  When a side road appeared on the R (S) at a ridge 0.75 mile W of the intended starting point, SPHP had abandoned the pilot car queue.  The RAV4 could stay here, as later confirmed by the pilot car lady.  And that was how Lupe had wound up trotting E along a forbidden stretch of the Dalton Highway.

8-26-22, 9:55 AM – Imnavait Mountain came back into sight well before Lupe reached HP2810, which was scarcely identifiable as any particular point out on the vast tundra plain.  Lupe’s first objective, the Alaska oil pipeline, was in view, too, much closer than Imnavait.  Looking back S, big trucks rumbled along the highway in the region originally intended for the Carolina Dog’s departure.  They’d soon be left far behind.

Important information had been already been gleaned during the initial short trek since leaving the highway.  As expected, the tundra was nearly all tussocky, which made for rather slow going.  On the bright side, these tussocks weren’t as big as feared.  Better yet, the holes surrounding them were usually relatively dry, instead of full of stagnant water.  Happily, no bugs to speak of, a situation perhaps aided by the S breeze.

Grassy and green areas were to be avoided.  That was a sign of water.  Lupe had already passed several miniature swamps.  Reaching another one, SPHP pointed toward a long ridge off to the NE.

See the high point toward the R end of that big ridge, Loop?

Of course!  We aren’t going way over there, are we, SPHP?

Already did, Loopster.  That’s Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.)!  For 5 years now, it’s been the peak farthest N of any significant size that you’ve ever climbed.  If we get to Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) today, you’ll set a new personal record!

Imnavait can’t be much farther N than Slope Mountain, SPHP.

No, it isn’t, Looper.  Only 1.5 miles.  Not as high, either.  On the other paw, getting to Imnavait is a much more daring enterprise.  Slope Mountain is a mere day hike, but the journey to Imnavait is 8 or 9 miles one way from the Dalton Highway.  That’s no day hike!  At least, not for us among all these tussocks.

So we’re staying out overnight at Imnavait Mountain, SPHP?

Yup, I’ve got your tiny house with us.

Camping out overnight on a mountain N of the Brooks Range way out on the North Slope of Alaska?  That sounds awesome, SPHP!

Yeah, I’m excited, Loopster!  Who knows what we’ll see?  If it weren’t for our new iPhone and the Peakbagger.com app allowing us to record a GPS track, we probably wouldn’t even dare attempt this.

Why is that, SPHP?

You’ve seen how foggy this territory can be, Loop.  Fog might sweep in and stay for days out here.  Would be so easy to wind up hopelessly lost on the trackless tundra with virtually no significant landmarks for miles on end.

8-26-22, 10:18 AM, 52ºF – Reaching the Alaska oil pipeline, the GPS track said that Lupe had traveled 1.2 miles since leaving the Dalton Highway.  Following the pipeline E to the top of a very broad, gently rounded ridge, it was time for a short break.  So far, the only wildlife Lupe had seen was a flight of 9 gray birds with white wings she’d accidentally scared up.

Pondering the vast distance still remaining between the pipeline and Imnavait Mountain, SPHP wondered what else might be out here?

Keep your ears, eyes, and nose alert, Loop!  Might see caribou or musk ox!

Maybe a polar bear, SPHP!

Not sure polar bears stray this far S of the ocean, Looper, but who knows?

Everything had gone well thus far, although what blue sky there’d been at the start was gone now.  However, the uniform gray clouds didn’t look at all threatening.  As long as the wind stayed out of the S, SPHP didn’t anticipate much of a change.

Well, guess this is it, Loop!  Ready to leave this last vestige of civilization, and continue N?

The American Dingo apparently had no qualms about it, setting off N across the tundra again.

8-26-22, 11:43 AM, 1 mile SSE of HP2626 – 2.9 miles in, according to the GPS track, Lupe came to a caribou skull with antlers at the top of a small rise.  It looked very old, and almost seemed as if it had been deliberately placed here as a landmark.

Since leaving the Alaska oil pipeline, the entire trek N had become a game of trying to avoid the worst of the tussocks, with mixed success.

Lupe didn’t like the tussocks, and had just plodded along behind SPHP much of the way.  Unsurprisingly, parts of the tundra were wet.  SPHP’s boots and socks were soaked through now, both unavoidable and to be expected.  Lately there had been some slightly higher, drier ground.  Brilliant red alpine bearberries often marked the best terrain.

Beyond the caribou skull, progress was good on firm ground for a little way, but Lupe soon came to more tussocky territory again.  The tussocks weren’t terrible, and eventually, after passing a tiny pond, the American Dingo reached “Cherry Butte”.  This 10 foot high hill was grassy on top, and richly cloaked with bright red alpine bearberries on its sides.

HP2626 was only a short distance beyond Cherry Butte.  Several small ridges provided firm support in this area.  Glad to be rid of the tussocks, Lupe took off racing across the tundra, sniffing and exploring with great enthusiasm.  Didn’t last long, though.  After passing HP2626, a gradual downhill march led right back to a vast, golden plain of tussocks flecked with red that seemingly extended clear to Imnavait Mountain.

8-26-22, 12:53 PM, at a boulder – Scattered isolated boulders were about the only feature of the endless plain.  Weary of the tussocks, Lupe was trying to doze next to one.  Per the GPS track, she was 4.3 miles in now, about halfway to the base of Imnavait Mountain.

The American Dingo hadn’t seen any more wildlife, just bits and pieces of caribou bones and antlers that were so old, it was almost as if caribou were now extinct. Once in a while a bird would twitter, but none were flying.  Sort of disappointing that there wasn’t any more than that this far from the highway.

So far, no real change in the weather.  A few drops of rain had fallen, but that was it.  Except way back S near the Brooks Range, the sky remained completely overcast.

8-26-22, 1:50 PM, 5.4 miles in, Split Rock – No avoiding the tussocks.  They were everywhere!  Crossing a long flat stretch, a 3 foot high boulder had been visible from quite a distance.  Upon arrival, Lupe found it cracked in two, earning this readily identifiable boulder the nickname Split Rock.

The S breeze was diminishing, the sky brighter now.  Definitely getting closer to Imnavait Mountain.  Beneath the clouds, the mountain was dark gray, with bands of tan toward its steeper E end.  Lower and middle slopes appeared dark red, a maroon color that must be vegetation.

8-26-22, 2:46 PM, 6.6 miles in, Gnat Rock –  Lupe stood atop another lone boulder that had been visible from a long way off as she’d started up a gradual slope.  Still nothing but tussocks and spongy tundra all this way.

Up to this point, SPHP had seen only 3 mosquitoes, but the S breeze had now completely faded away.  The air was calm, and there were lots more mosquitoes here.  They weren’t the worst of it, though.  Annoying clouds of gnats prevented Lupe from staying here more than a few minutes.

8-26-22, 3:13 PM – After leaving Gnat Rock, the gradual slope Lupe had been climbing eventually topped out.  The ground was drier, rockier, and tussock-free for a little way.  A second caribou skull and antlers sat at a high point facing S, lending credence to SPHP’s theory that these caribou skulls had been deliberately placed.

Shortly after passing this 2nd caribou skull and antlers, a small lake S of Imnavait Mountain came into view.  The low point of the entire trek was a wet, bushy drainage that had to be crossed W of the lake.

After successfully crossing the drainage, the tussocks encountered as the Carolina Dog started up the long slope leading to the base of Imnavait Mountain were the biggest and most difficult to deal with yet.

8-26-22, 4:16 PM, 8.8 miles in, base of Imnavait Mountain – After trudging partway up the lower S slope, SPHP was happy to finally dump the pack.  Still cloudy and calm.  Gnats were an annoyance here, too, but nowhere near as bad as they’d been at Gnat Rock.

Lupe was only a little way up Imnavait Mountain’s S slope, but the scene back to the S was stunning!  The gently rolling tundra plain was all gold, green, and brown.  Splotches of yellow were in the distance along the Kuparuk River valley.  On the far horizon, the Brooks Range formed a jagged blue line below the pale gray sky.

The lower slopes of Imnavait Mountain were the most colorful of all!  Lupe stood on a flat spot brightly decorated in red, orange, and green.

Wow!  Looks like we’ve come a long way now, doesn’t it, Loopster?  Made it to Imnavait Mountain, though!  I can hardly believe it.  Beef jerky?

Thought the tussocks would never end, SPHP!  And yes, to that last thing.

The beef jerky was tasty, but suffered from a depressingly short half life.

Feels good resting here, but I suppose we ought to keep going, Loop.  Still a long way to the summit, and we better get there this evening while we can see something.  Might easily wake up to fog tomorrow.  Would be tragic to come all this way, and not get to see the North Slope from the top.

Onward then, SPHP!

Heading N, then NNE, the climb up Imnavait Mountain’s S slope was only moderately steep.  No tussocks, but there was some spongy tundra to deal with on the lower slopes.  As Lupe got higher, the ground became firmer and rockier.  Tremendous beauty was everywhere!  Imnavait Mountain was all decked out in brilliant fall colors.

The initial climb was the steepest.  After gaining 500 feet of elevation, the rate of climb diminished.  Vegetation began thinning out, too.  Eventually Lupe came to slope that was all rock.  Scrambling up it, she reached an almost level plain.  Superimposed on this plain, a 30 foot high platform of rock was immediately ahead.

Let’s have a look around from up on that platform, Looper!

8-26-22, 5:36 PM, Imnavait Mountain, W high point of the S ridge – A quick, easy scramble got Lupe up onto a flat patch of grass on top of the 30 foot tall platform.  Beyond the grass, a long rocky slope descended gradually W.  That was the way to HP2901, if the Carolina Dog wound up being ambitious enough to explore way over to it at some point.

Both Itigaknit Lake and Toolik Lake, plus quite a few smaller ones, were visible off to the SW.

Think this platform is the high point we’ve been seeing from afar, Loop.

Clearly not the true summit, though, SPHP.  There’s higher stuff around.

That’s right, Loopster.  Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) is shaped sort of like a horseshoe, with the opening to the W.  Two big ridges are connected by a saddle at the E end.  The true summit is another 350 feet higher over on the N ridge.  We’re just at the W high point on the S ridge.  The S ridge summit is that bare hill 0.5 mile E.

So are we going to go over to the S ridge summit before continuing on to the true summit, SPHP?

Might as well, Loop.  It’s actually right on the way to the saddle connecting to the N ridge.

The S ridge was very wide.  Most of it was an almost level plain of scree as Lupe headed E.  However, less than halfway to the S ridge summit, the American Dingo came to a region of much larger rocks where she lost 40 feet of elevation.  The rest of the way to the S ridge summit was an easy grind higher on small scree.

8-26-22, 5:59 PM, 10.0 miles in, Imnavait Mountain, S ridge summit – The S ridge summit was a huge flat area devoid of vegetation, entirely covered with small stones.  SPHP was surprised to see a very broad lower bench sweeping all around the S and E sides.  This high point was toward the SE end of the entire mountain, but not near any sharp edge.

Well, shucks!  There goes my dream of pitching your tiny house right up at the true summit of Imnavait Mountain, Loop.  Too rocky here.  Presume it will be there, too.

If we find a soft spot anywhere along the way, we ought to take it, SPHP.

Sounds like good advice, Loop.  Hoping we’ll see some nice, flat tundra down in the saddle leading to the N ridge.

Back to the W, the 30 foot high platform was still in sight with hills of the Itigaknit Mountain (3,293 ft.) group visible beyond it.  However, at the moment, Imnavait Mountain’s N ridge was of more immediate interest.  The N ridge looked mostly gray or tan from here, with large patches of yellow vegetation fringed with red.  Still 300 feet higher, it had a layered look about it, with the layers gradually rising to the E.

Heading NNE, Lupe left the S ridge summit in a 10 mph W breeze and light rain, ultimately losing 250 feet of elevation on the way down to the saddle leading to the N ridge.  The scenic descent was a mix of tundra, and steeper, rocky slopes.  The Carolina Dog enjoyed beautiful views of Slope Mountain (4,010 ft.) E of the Toolik River valley, and a collection of small lakes to the NE out on the North Slope.

The route the American Dingo would be taking from the saddle NW to the true summit was in view the whole way.  Looked like an easy climb up a series of benches.  The biggest bench halfway up would involve a fairly steep scramble, but SPHP was confident Lupe wouldn’t have any trouble with it.

Upon reaching the saddle leading to the N ridge, Lupe turned N.  The enormous saddle was a mix of tundra and rocky terrain that sloped W.  Approaching the N ridge, SPHP dropped the pack at a spot where there was plenty of tundra.  Sort of lumpy, but soft enough.  It would do.

8-26-22, 6:50 PM, 10.8 miles in, Imnavait Mountain, near the N end of the saddle between the N and S ridges –

You’re not even going to set up the tiny house, SPHP?

Not yet, Loop.  Just going to leave it here for now, since I don’t think there’s any reason to cart it clear up to the true summit and back.  So cloudy out that we better keep going while we can still see something.

Abandoning the sleeping bags and the tiny house, Lupe started up the N ridge.

A little over 700 feet to the top from the saddle, the ascent went about as anticipated.  Lupe had to circle around the E side a bit on the way up the biggest bench, but after that each rocky bench was smaller.  Soon the trek was getting easier and easier as the terrain gradually leveled out.

8-26-22, 7:16 PM, 45ºF, Imnavait Mountain (3,702 ft.) – As expected the enormous summit plain was covered with rocks.  They were bigger here than on the S ridge summit, but none of them were very large.  Off to the NW, a couple of antennas were visible along the N edge about where the topo map showed the true summit should be.

It only took a few minutes to get there.  The antennas had several solar panels and boxes containing electronic equipment associated with them, but there didn’t seem to be a cairn, or even any readily identifiable exact high point.

Congratulations, Loopster!  May I shake your paw?  We’re here!  Imnavait Mountain!  Isn’t it splendid?

Lupe extended her paw.  A moment later, formalities were complete.

Human stuff!  Not all that much of it, but I’m in no mood for it, Loopster.  Didn’t come all the way to Imnavait for this.  Looks like some more ground every bit as high, or close to it, farther on.  Want to keep going?

Fine, if it’s not too far, SPHP.  I’m ready for a chocolate coconut bar.

Continuing more than another 0.25 mile NW, Lupe went a little beyond the highest ground, far enough to lose 50 feet of elevation and for the top of HP2901 to come into view, before SPHP called a halt near the N edge.

8-26-22, 7:30 PM, 11.9 miles in, Imnavait Mountain NW viewpoint –

This is good, Loop.  Let’s stay here.  This is what we came to see.

The SW breeze was chilly, the sun too low to have any punch.  SPHP sat facing NW.  With nothing but rocks here, Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap for comfort, providing and receiving warmth.

A good place to brood!  The sky was nearly all gray, but there were a few distant holes where sunlight was on the tundra.  Off to the NW, a big rain shower slowly drifted NE.  For a while it was sunlit, too.

From this height, the vast tundra plain below stretching away to the N was a dull brown, flecked with gold.  Two groups of small, silvery lakes were NNW.  Beyond them the Kuparuk River flowed into a bigger lake.  Farther still, a dark blue ridge was on the horizon at the edge of vision.  It wasn’t very high, just big enough to be seen from Imnavait Mountain.

Empty!  All spectacularly empty.  The world as it has been for eons.

If we had a way to resupply ourselves, we could walk all the way to the Arctic Ocean from here, Loop.

You’re talking some serious tussocks now, SPHP!  Bet Alaska’s North Slope gets mighty swampy.  And speaking of supplies, how about that chocolate coconut bar?

Forgot to bring one, Loop.  How about a chocolate chip Cliff bar instead?

That’ll suffice, SPHP.  Bring it on!

Having been excited and alert much of the night last night, Lupe was having trouble staying awake.  She dozed off and on, as SPHP pondered the magnificent, melancholy views.  Lakes W of the Toolik River were visible NE.  More lakes and isolated mountains were W of HP2901.  10+ miles WSW, Itigaknit Mountain (3,293 ft.) and Peak 3378 were among them.  Itigaknit Lake was SW.

Lupe spent more than 40 fabulous minutes at her Imnavait Mountain NW viewpoint while the North Slope filled SPHP’s mind with strange, mystical thoughts of going on forever from here with the Carolina Dog, but it was getting late.  Reality intervened.  An hour after arriving, Lupe was back at true summit and twin antennas again as light rain returned.

Despite the rain, on the way back to the saddle, Lupe paused at the SE end of the summit plain for a last look at Imnavait Mountain’s S ridge and Slope Mountain.  For 5 long years, these views had been ahead, part of the uncertain future.  Now the Carolina Dog was actually here, likely already seeing them for the last time from Imnavait’s N ridge.

Maybe not.

Quite a view, isn’t it, Loop?  Here we are, actually seeing the world from Imnavait Mountain after dreaming about this day for years.

Farthest N we’ve ever been on a mountain, SPHP!

Yeah!  Amazing!  Tell ya what, Looper.  If it’s sunny in the morning, we’ll come back up for another look.

8-26-22, 9:14 PM, saddle between Imnavait Mountain’s N and S ridges –  A fantastic, but long day.  Weary and damp, both Lupe and SPHP crawled inside the tiny house.  The American Dingo enjoyed dinner curled up on her red sleeping bag with part of it pulled over her.  Satisfied, snug and warm, Lupe was off in Dingo Dreamland in nothing flat.

Outside, as an Arctic night settled over Imnavait Mountain, the light rain turned steady.  Whatever that might imply could wait for tomorrow.

8-27-22, 8:30 AM, base camp between Imnavait Mountain’s N and S ridge –

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Unfortunately, the Carolina Dog wasn’t going to get to return to Imnavait Mountain’s summit.  Overcast again, not a sunny day.  Happily, not foggy, either.  Instead of going over the S ridge again, this time Lupe left the saddle starting a gradual descent around the E end of the mountain.

The descent was easy.  Lupe didn’t begin to lose serious elevation until she got back around to where the unnamed lake S of the mountain was in sight.  The tundra was absolutely gorgeous as she reached Imnavait’s lower slopes again.

Going over Imnavait’s S ridge might actually have been easier.  Heading for the W end of the lake to avoid the outlet stream at the E end before turning S, Lupe had to cross many wet drainages.  Actually more of a problem for SPHP than the American Dingo.

During the long return S through the tussocks, Lupe revisited many of the minor landmarks she’d been to yesterday.  Gnat Rock, Split Rock, HP2626, Cherry Butte, both caribou skulls and antlers!  They helped to break the monotony of the tussocks, and provided clear indications of progress.  The Alaska oil pipeline came back into view a little before reaching HP2626.

The day turned sort of sunny.  60ºF!  SPHP was shedding layers.  Off to the E, a heavy dark rain shower developed over by Slope Mountain.  SPHP kept an eye on it as it gradually extended its reach.

There didn’t seem to be any big rush, though.  The American Dingo took her time, enjoying brief stops at many of the landmarks she came to.  At 3:23 PM, she reached an unusually large, flat boulder being reclaimed by the tundra.  The Alaska oil pipeline was only a short distance away now.

Another 1.25 miles, and Lupe would be back at the Dalton Highway.

8-27-22, 4:44 PM – Back at the RAV4!  Lupe’s grand Imnavait Mountain adventure was over.  Anxious to settle down on her comfortable pink blanket, the American Dingo leapt in as soon as SPHP opened the door.  Not a moment too soon, either!  Fog swept over the land as the Slope Mountain storm arrived.

As soon as SPHP had the gear loaded, Lupe munching happily on a Busy Rib Hide, and a chocolate pudding cup in hand, the RAV4 was back at the Dalton Highway waiting for a chance to follow the next pilot car E.  One appeared out of the fog within minutes, and Lupe joined the parade as SPHP cut into the line at the earliest opportunity.

We did it, Loopster!  Imnavait Mountain!  Your epic adventure way out on Alaska’s North Slope is a glorious big success.

Sort of a different adventure, SPHP.  More about distance than climbing, but it really was interesting.  Where to now?  Deadhorse?

You betcha, sweet puppy!  To the end of the Dalton Highway, or bust!

Links:

Next Adventure                   Prior Adventure

Slope Mountain & Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-22-17 & 8-23-17)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.