2022 – Page 4 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska – Part 1: Eagle Summit to Porcupine Dome (9-2-22)

Part 1 of Day 35 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8:08 AM, 50ºF – Traveling ENE up the Chatanika River valley, the Steese Highway was beautiful, all paved and striped. The river was seldom in sight, both sides of the valley flanked by heavily-forested, rounded hills.

Leaves were just beginning to turn yellow, quite a switch after coming from the Brooks Range where fall was already well advanced. Although patches of blue existed, the sky was 95% overcast.

Sure don’t make sunny days like they used to, SPHP!

Yeah, I don’t know what’s up with this, Loop. The forecast was for full sun in Fairbanks today. Maybe it will clear off at some point?

Scarcely any traffic, and less and less as the road wound along the base of the hills. After passing MP 81, everything changed. The pavement ended, as the Steese Highway turned to hard-packed dirt and gravel. A steady climb out of the valley was underway. Dark clouds, fog, mist, and mud greeted Lupe at Twelvemile Summit.

We’re not in Fairbanks anymore, SPHP.

Evidently not, Looper. Starting to shake my faith in this entire endeavor. We’ve come so far already, though, that we might as well keep going. See what develops.

Beyond Twelvemile Summit, the Steese Highway dropped below the clouds again and dried out quite a bit. Another valley was in sight, along with some of the hills around it. The American Dingo started catching glimpses of higher hills whose summits were above treeline, and the highway began to climb again.

9:21 AM, 41ºF, Steese Highway MP 107, Eagle Summit – A chilly breeze swept over a barren landscape. No trees at all, and scarcely any bushes worth mentioning. The summit of the big hill beyond Lupe was partially obscured by fog. Moments later, the entire hill vanished.

Arriving at **Eagle Summit**. Photo looks W.

A short access road led to a huge, completely empty, wet parking lot. An outhouse stood along one edge, and a nice sign for the Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail along another.

You might as well snooze, Loop. I’m just going to work on the trip journal for a while. We aren’t going anywhere if conditions don’t improve.

Dark, dreary, breezy, damp, and cold! Amid thick fog and mist, it was impossible to see from one end of the parking lot to the other.

10:20 AM, 41ºF, MP107, Eagle Summit Wayside – Suddenly brighter again.

Blue sky to the NE, SPHP! The clouds are breaking up!

Now or never then, Looper! Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) is 9 miles one way, and we’re getting a late start. Need to get there today, too, if we want to have a shot at seeing anything from there. Weather is supposed to be lousy tomorrow. This is the good day!

Onward, SPHP! Let’s go!

Suddenly clearing skies from the **Eagle Summit parking lot**. Photo looks NE.

Start of the **Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail**. **HP3900** (L). Photo looks W.

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail began with a nature trail loop with a few displays along it. Leaving the parking lot, Lupe took the path angling to the R, which was the long way, but not much of a detour. SPHP paused to read each display, which didn’t take long at all.

Lupe soon reached the spot where the main trail began switchbacking W up HP3900, the first big hill.

275 feet of elevation gain would get Lupe to the top, but the trail divided shortly before getting there. The main trail went R, beginning a gradual descent. Naturally, the peakbagging Dingo took the spur trail going L to the summit. She was there in no time.

**Eagle Summit** (Center) and the **Steese Highway** from **HP3900**. Photo looks E.

11:30 AM – The top of HP3900 was a roomy, almost flat region of small rocks and scant vegetation. A survey benchmark fastened to a pipe stood 6″ above the rest of the plain.

Happily, conditions were continuing to improve. Not much of a breeze at all now, and while most of the sky remained very cloudy, all the mist and fog were gone, revealing a vast landscape of enormous, barren hills and ridges.

Hey, Loop! See that hill to the SE? Bet that’s Mastodon Dome (4,418 ft.)!

**Mastodon Dome** (Center) from the **HP3900 survey benchmark**. Photo looks SE.

Mastodon Dome? We ought to go there, SPHP! Seeing a mastodon would be even better than the musk oxen along the Dalton Highway!

It’s on you list of possibilities, Looper. Looks easy to get there, too. We’ll visit Mastodon Dome in a couple of days, if the weather’s decent after we get back from Pinnell Mountain.

Oh, I hope so, SPHP! Ought to be a cinch spotting a mastodon up here! How awesome would that be?

Literally unbelievably awesome, Loop! In fact, look around. I’m thinking this entire Pinnell Mountain trail is going to be awesome, too. Started out in the tundra above tree line, and it looks like it’s going to be that way along the whole route. Amazing Alaskan views every step of the way!

Reminds me a little of a cross between the N side of the Brooks Range, and the North Slope, SPHP. We’ll have a blast up here!

Yes, we will! I suppose we better keep going, but let me have a look at the map first, Loop. OK. I get it. See that distant big hill off to NW?

You mean the one that’s still in the clouds, SPHP?

Yes. That must be our first objective, Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.).

**Peak 4350** (L), **Porcupine Dome** (Center), **HP4351** (R) from **HP3900**. Photo looks NW.

Porcupine Dome! Sounds dangerous, SPHP.

Yeah, we’d be better off running into mastodons than porcupines, Looper. This doesn’t really look much like porcupine territory, if you ask me, but if you do happen to see any, stay far away from them.

Looking down on the enormous region leading NW to Peak 4350, a dark track scarred the tundra. The Pinnell Mountain trail was down there, too, but harder to pick out. Leaving HP3900, Lupe returned to the main trail. Following it down the NW slope, she soon came to a double plank boardwalk.

**NW of HP3900** back on the **Pinnell Mountain trail**. **Peak 4350** (R). Photo looks WNW.

Bottoming out, the trail began a slow climb, crossing the dark track Lupe had seen from HP3900, which turned out to be a muddy ATV route. In addition to the two plank boardwalk, the Pinnell Mountain trail featured sections of plastic grid. At first they were filled with gravel, but later on the grid spaces were empty, forcing Lupe to stay on the tundra instead.

Glancing back at **HP3900** (Center), **Mastodon Dome** (R). Photo looks SE.

Both the boardwalks and grids appeared to be relatively new. Stacks of lumber and other supplies for trail improvement sat wrapped in plastic strung out along the tundra.

There seemed to be an awful lot of other human made distractions along this part of the trail, too. Wooden stakes and strings roped off vegetation restoration areas. Frequent brown “No Motor Vehicle” wands were right along the trail, and bright yellow wands stood in parallel lines 40 feet from each side. Orange plastic webbed fencing served as barriers.

In addition to all this new stuff, there were older, less offensive trail markers, too. Every so often Lupe passed cairns featuring either a tall narrow stone standing on end, or a wooden pole with peeling paint.

The Pinnell Mountain trail headed NW toward Peak 4350 along what amounted to a very broad ridge. Halfway there, it passed near a minor rocky high point. Lupe ventured over to it. Another gradual descent lay beyond this point.

**Peak 4350** (L), **Porcupine Dome** (Center), **HP4351** (R). Photo looks NW.

The entire trek to Peak 4350 was easy. Near it, the trail began climbing again. However, Lupe wasn’t destined to get anywhere close to the top. Instead, the trail swept along the E side around to the N slope, topping out at a NE corner still hundreds of feet below the summit.

**Mastodon Dome** (Center) from the **lower E slope of Peak 4350**. Photo looks SE.

**HP4740** (far L), **Porcupine Dome** (L), **HP4351** (R) from the **Pinnell Mountain trail high point on Peak 4350**. Photo looks NW.

**Grognon Gulch** and the **Bonanza Creek valley** from the **Pinnell Mountain trail HP on Peak 4350**. Photo looks NE.

The trail was level or descended gradually during most of the traverse of Peak 4350’s N slope. New territory came into view as it began curving N toward the huge saddle leading to HP4351 along Porcupine Dome’s long E ridge. Looking WNW across the upper Ptarmigan Creek valley, Pinnell Mountain (4,934 ft.) and a couple of other high points were in sight.

Traversing the **N slope of Peak 4350**. **Pinnell Mountain** (L), **HP4740** (Center), **Porcupine Dome** (R). Photo looks NW.

Crossing the saddle leading to HP4351, SPHP became confused as more high points continued to appear.

Huh. Wow! Do we really have to go all that way, Loop? Thought I knew which peak was Pinnell Mountain, but now I’m not so sure. That peak to the W looks even higher than the dome I’ve been thinking was it.

It’s a long way off, SPHP. Is Pinnell Mountain that far from Porcupine Dome?

According to the map, Pinnell is just 2.5+ miles WSW of Porcupine Dome as the crow flies, Loopster.

That peak to the W seems farther than that, SPHP.

Yeah, I know, but doesn’t it look like the highest one around to you, Loop? Pinnell Mountain is the highest point along the entire Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail.

Could be an optical illusion, SPHP. Happens in the mountains. Anyway, let’s keep going. We’ll figure it out.

**N of Peak 4350** heading for **HP4351** (Center). Photo looks N.

**HP4453** (L), **HP4721** (Center), **Pinnell Mountain** R. Photo looks W.

No matter which peak was actually Pinnell Mountain, the scenery was fantastic! Tremendous open vistas greeted Lupe in all directions as she trotted along the low tundra, now enhanced by the lack of most signs of human activity. On the way to HP4351, all the wands, fenced off areas, and stacks of supplies had been left behind SE of Peak 4350.

There were still cairns with their tall stones or wooden posts, a short two plank boardwalk, and a few more plastic grids, but these were much less intrusive. The world looked unspoiled here, always a good look!

Beyond the last boardwalks and plastic grids, the trail dipped before starting up to HP4351. Loopster came to a grassy wet region where boardwalks would have been helpful, but they didn’t extend this far. No big deal, though. Although the trail went right through the soggiest area, the worst of it was easily avoided by staying a bit farther E. Meanwhile, Lupe enjoyed helping herself to drinks from various pools of water.

From the low point of the dip, the Carolina Dog had to gain more than 650 feet of elevation to get up to HP4351. The trail was in great shape, though, and much firmer here. Two sets of switchbacks separated by a fairly level stretch made the climb even easier than it looked.

On the relatively flat stretch between the switchbacks. **HP4351** (Center). Photo looks N.

**Porcupine Dome** (L) from the upper switchbacks. Photo looks NW.

The top of HP4351 was a big flat region of sparse tundra strewn with rocks. The actual high point was over by the NW end where 3 distinct rock outcroppings 10 or 20 feet higher than the rest of the plateau stood lined up along the NE edge.

On **HP4351**. **Summit** (L) beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.

Although no difference in elevation compared to Peak 4350 should have been discernable, looking back, SPHP had the impression that HP4351 was definitely somewhat higher. No doubt, this was mere illusion, too.

Glancing back at **Peak 4350** (Center). Photo looks S.

1:56 PM, HP4351 – The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation trail went right past the 3 rocky high points. Naturally, the Carolina Dog scrambled up onto the middle one, which was clearly highest, for a look around.

**Porcupine Dome** (L) from the top of **HP4351**. Photo looks NW.

It had turned into a really nice day. Still lots of clouds around, but plenty of blue sky, too. All the mountains were beneath the clouds now. Lupe could see many miles in all directions. To the W, both Pinnell Mountain candidates were visible well past Porcupine Dome. SPHP still wasn’t sure which was the real Pinnell Mountain.

**HP4721** (L), **Pinnell Mountain** (L of Center), and **Porcupine Dome** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

The view to the NE was interesting, too. A line of dark blue mountains was in sight well beyond red and green hills. Those distant peaks were the Crazy Mountains. They looked to be similar in elevation, but were actually lower than the domes and ridges around here.

The **Crazy Mountains** on the horizon. **Bonanza Creek valley** (R). Photo looks NE.

Although getting to HP4351 hadn’t been hard at all, Lupe was miles from the start now, and there had been a fair amount of up and down along the way, even if net elevation gain thus far was still less than 750 feet. SPHP proposed a short rest break, which seemed like a great idea to the American Dingo, too.

This is really a terrific trail, SPHP! Love how we got to start out way up on the open tundra.

Yeah! Would be fun to do the entire trail sometime, Loop. Bet it’s like this the whole way. It stays up on these big ridges hitting quite a few peaks.

The trail doesn’t end at Pinnell Mountain, SPHP?

Oh, no! That’s just how far I’m hoping we can get on our one day of decent weather. The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation trail is 27 miles long, the W end being clear over at Twelvemile Summit, which we passed on the Steese Highway on the way here. We’re only going to be doing about a third of the entire trail, Looper.

Too bad it’s supposed to rain, SPHP. We could do the whole thing now!

That would be awesome, Loopster, but we aren’t prepared for that. Had no idea ahead of time that this would be so cool! I was actually expecting an endless traipse through a forest, hoping we might eventually catch some views from the summits.

Well, this is pretty unique, SPHP. We could roam these big ridges and domes forever!

Makes one want to do that, doesn’t it? Well, we’re here now, and have all day! C’mon! Onward! Puppy, ho!

From HP4351, the Pinnell Mountain trail continued NW, starting another gradual descent. Following a broad ridge, it curved W directly toward Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.). The trail bottomed at a big grassy region. After crossing it, Lupe began regaining elevation again.

**Porcupine Dome** from the grassy region. Photo looks W.

An easy romp up to 4,400 feet got Lupe nearly to the base of Porcupine Dome, but instead of continuing up it, the trail veered SW.

**E face of Porcupine Dome**. Photo looks W.

The Pinnell Mountain trail doesn’t go to the top, SPHP?

No, not of Porcupine Dome, Loop. It swings around the S side over to the W end, then just keeps going.

Well, we’re going to climb Porcupine Dome, aren’t we? Doesn’t look that hard. How much higher is it, SPHP?

Only another 500+ feet. Of course, we’re going to climb Porcupine, Looper, but this is the steepest side. According to the topo map, looks like we’d be better off going up from the SW or W. Shouldn’t be quite as steep there. I’m sure we could tackle it from here, but I’m carrying a fairly heavy pack. Mind if we just stick with the trail a little farther?

That’s fine, SPHP, as long as we get to the summit!

The Pinnell Mountain trail dipped a bit as Lupe started around the S side of Porcupine Dome. She soon reached a rocky region where large, flat stones had been arranged to make the route easier. Many of these rocks hadn’t been braced at all, and were a bit tippy. Nothing to worry about, as long as one was prepared for it.

Traversing the **SE side of Porcupine Dome**. Photo looks SW.

On the frequently tippy flat rock section. **Peak 4350** (L). Photo looks SSW.

After an initial descent, the trail began regaining elevation. By the time Lupe made it to the SW side of the mountain, she was already at 4,500 feet. Porcupine Dome was grassier here, and the view to the W finally dispelled any doubt as to which peak was actually Pinnell Mountain.

That more distant peak is HP4721 out along Pinnell Mountain’s W ridge, Loop. Actually more than 200 feet lower! Amazing how one’s perspective can create such illusions. Cleary looked higher earlier on.

So Pinnell Mountain is the next summit, or the middle one, SPHP?

The middle one. The closest one is HP4740. We’ll be visiting both, but first it’s time for Porcupine Dome!

**HP4721** (L), **Pinnell Mountain** (L of Center), **HP 4740** (R of Center). Photo looks W.

From what appeared to be about the high point of the trail on the WSW side of the mountain, Lupe started up Porcupine Dome. Even over here, the slope was rather steep. Nothing too difficult, though! Most of the way, the Carolina Dog was able to climb on tundra, although higher up she eventually had to scramble on moderate-sized rocks covered with black lichens.

After gaining 250 feet of elevation, a dark ridge appeared ahead.

Approaching the dark ridge. Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching it, Lupe discovered that this ridge was a false summit. Beyond a short flat area and a tiny dip, the true summit region, which was a lot bigger, was another 100 feet higher up a slope that wasn’t as steep. A red and white tower, and a solar panel were in sight up there.

**Porcupine Dome summit** from the false summit. Photo looks NE.

4:05 PM, 44ºF – The top of Porcupine Dome (4,915 ft.) was another big flat region. Several hundred feet long, it sloped slightly up toward the W. A 5-10 mph E breeze felt surprisingly chilly, as SPHP dumped the pack by what appeared to be the highest collection of rocks near the W end. Sitting down, SPHP faced W, away from the breeze.

By the red & white tower and solar panel shed. Photo looks NE.

Beef jerky, Loop?

Yes, please! I’m famished, SPHP!

The beef jerky vanished in nothing flat. Lupe found a bit of tundra to curl up on.

How far are we from Eagle Summit, SPHP?

The way the trail winds around, think we’ve gone about 6 miles, Looper. The Peakbagger app on the iPhone says 7.1 miles, but I don’t think it’s right. Seems to overestimate distances.

And Pinnell Mountain is another 2.5+ miles?

That’s as the crow flies, Loopster. The trail will be more like 3 miles.

There was more human stuff up here than just the tower and the shed with the solar panel. Several white tanks, a green thing-a-ma-jig, and a couple of big metal boxes were farther E.

Relaxing by the highest rocks near the W end of the summit region. Photo looks E.

None of that stuff was of any real interest to Lupe or SPHP, but there was one thing that SPHP would be interested in seeing.

Supposed to be a “Porky” survey benchmark up here, Loop. Want to help me find it?

Sure, SPHP! Where’s it supposed to be?

Map shows it about in the middle along the N edge.

Thinking it might be attached to a rock, SPHP wandered E along the N side of the summit region, while Lupe sniffed about. There were many rocks, though, and SPHP had no luck despite going nearly all the way to the E end.

Setting off to find the “Porky” survey benchmark. Photo looks ENE.

The **Porcupine Dome summit plain** from near the E end. Photo looks W.

Another pass heading back W wasn’t any more successful. No cairn, no registry, no “Porky” survey benchmark, and nothing to be done about it.

I don’t know, Loop. Maybe it’s gone? Maybe it’s up here, but I’m just not seeing it? Doesn’t really matter, anyway. Let’s just relax for a while.

Aren’t you forgetting something, SPHP?

Like what, Loop?

You did bring a chocolate coconut bar, didn’t you?

Oh, of course! Sorry, Loopster! Congratulations on reaching Porcupine Dome! May I shake your paw?

That’s more like it, SPHP!

Might I add that you’ve done a magnificent job of avoiding any marauding porcupines along the way?

You may, but I’d be happier if you’d add that chocolate coconut bar, SPHP.

Ah, yes! Then without further ado, Looper, let’s split one, in accordance with long established tradition.

The chocolate coconut bar came and went. The American Dingo insisted on another round of beef jerky, as well, before curling up again. SPHP then took to munching on honey roasted peanuts, and enjoyed a vanilla pudding cup, while taking in the tremendous views.

Pinnell Mountain was the only higher peak anywhere nearby. It was only marginally higher than Porcupine Dome, but there were distant mountains in nearly every direction. The exceptions were to the N and E, where large regions of lowlands were in sight. The Yukon River was supposed to be out there somewhere, but SPHP couldn’t see it.

Although there were a few notably higher peaks in the distance, they were all far away, and no real giants stuck out. Still, a huge expanse of unspoiled Alaska was in view, a stirring sight in itself.

**HP4721** (L), **Pinnell Mountain** (L of Center), **HP4740** (R). Photo looks W.

At what appeared to be **Porcupine Dome’s true summit**. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

The **Crazy Mountains** in the distance from **Porcupine Dome**. Photo looks NE.

**Mastodon Dome** is the dark blip beyond Lupe. **Peak 4350** (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

4:50 PM, Porcupine Dome –

Hate to say it, but it’s about time to mosey on, Looper. You ready?

What? Is summit hour over already, SPHP? Seems like we just got here!

Well, we’re cutting it a bit short, Loop. Only been up here 45 minutes, but I think we better make sure we get to Pinnell Mountain this evening. Who knows what tomorrow will bring? The forecast wasn’t good.

Maybe we can hit Porcupine Dome again on the way back, SPHP?

Exactly what I was thinking, too, Loopster. Weather permitting, of course.

Somewhat reluctantly, SPHP hoisted the pack, and Lupe was on her way again, setting off back down the slope leading to the false summit.

About to head down to the **false summit** (Center). Photo looks SW.

Upon reaching the dip just before the false summit, Lupe peered down Porcupine Dome’s W slope.

We can skip all the rocks if we go this way, SPHP! A nice long descent on tundra all the way.

A better route and more direct, too! Go for it Loop!

Optimistic about her chances of getting to Pinnell Mountain despite how cloudy it had become again on what was supposed to have been a sunny day, the intrepid American Dingo led the way.

Heading down **Porcupine Dome’s W slope**. **Pinnell Mountain** (L), **HP4740** (Center). Photo looks W.

At **HP4351** on the way to **Porcupine Dome**, Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail, Alaska 9-2-22

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

The Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail – Part 2: Porcupine Dome to Pinnell Mountain, Alaska 9-2-22

Lupe’s Porcupine Dome GPS Track

Pinnell Mountain National Recreation Trail

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacations to Wyoming, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Highlights of the Dalton Highway Revisited, Alaska (8-31-22 & 9-1-22)

Days 33 & 34 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-31-22, 9:33 AM, Dalton Highway MP 275, Galbraith Lake campground –

Good morning, and about time, SPHP! How are your paws?

Still sore, but better. Thanks for asking, Loop. Going to be a day or two before I climb any more mountains, though. And how are you?

Ready to do some sniffing, if you’ll let me out of the RAV4, SPHP.

I will. Won’t be joining you, though. This should be a good day to catch up the trip journal while I’m incapacitated. Have fun out there!

The Carolina Dog bounded out of the RAV4 as soon as SPHP opened the door. Apparently, her paws were just fine.

Yesterday’s brief Dingo Summer was gone. Completely overcast. Not a speck of blue sky! The clouds were high enough so that the summits of nearby peaks were in sight, but bigger peaks farther S along the spine of the Brooks Range were hidden.

After yesterday’s relative calm, the S wind was back at it again. Yellow leaves were flying off the tall bushes surrounding the campsite. Last day of August, and the bushes were already looking rather bare. Here on the N side of the Brooks Range, winter was plotting its return sometime in the not too distant future.

Last day of August at the **Galbraith Lake campground**.

SPHP worked fairly diligently on the trip journal, but also eventually did manage to hobble along with Lupe on occasional short strolls.

This region near Galbraith Lake is a nice dry spot when the wind is out of the S like this, SPHP! If we stay here again tonight, maybe we can climb Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) tomorrow?

I’d really like to, Loopster, but conditions are pretty gloomy. If I knew for sure it would be sunny tomorrow, I’d be in favor of staying. However, I’d also like to see if the weather is better S of Atigun Pass. Haven’t forgotten about Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.). Would sure like to get another shot it.

As dark as those clouds are to the S, it’s still going to be rainy down there, SPHP. What will we do, if it is?

Love the Brooks Range, but Alaska is a big place. Lots of other beautiful parts of Alaska that I’m hoping we can visit on this Dingo Vacation, Loop. We’ll find something wonderful to do!

Mid-afternoon, SPHP joined Lupe on a last great romp around the entire Galbraith Lake campground. During gusts of the S wind, yellow leaves continued to fly as the American Dingo enjoyed her last outing on the N side of the Brooks Range.

Sad to even think about leaving! If the sky had started to clear up at all by now, Lake Benchmark Mountain would be on the agenda tomorrow, but conditions remained as overcast and gray as they had been earlier.

8-31-22, 3:38 PM, 55ºF, Dalton Highway MP 276 – After driving 2 miles N up the first big hill, SPHP turned around, then started back down before parking the RAV4 right along the highway.

Last chance for a good look at Galbraith Lake, Looper, but let’s be quick! Don’t want to be sitting here when the next big truck comes along.

**Galbraith Lake** from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks S.

The weather deteriorated during the drive S to Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.), pretty much as expected. 10 miles before Lupe actually got that far, the dry region near Galbraith Lake was left behind. Mist and light rain fell. The mountains were lost in fog. The Dalton Highway turned sloppy. Still hauntingly beautiful, though! Lupe made a couple of brief stops before continuing on.

Upper **Atigun River valley**. Photo looks S.

Start of the Dalton Highway’s nearly 1,000 foot climb to Atigun Pass. Photo looks SSE.

8-31-22, 4:39 PM, 41ºF, Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.) – Somewhat surprisingly, the pass itself was only sporadically foggy, conditions relatively benign. The S breeze driving one cloud after another through the pass was only 10 mph. During breaks in the fog, Lupe could actually see something of the mountains. Everything was wet, but it wasn’t cold enough to be icy, although a skiff of new snow did exist way up near the summits.

Continuing S from the pass, the sky darkened. A dreary, steady rain set in, and the Dalton Highway became a sea of mud. Big trucks ahead of the RAV4 crawled along kicking up a mucky spray. SPHP stopped at the Chandalar Shelf to let them get farther ahead. The American Dingo got out for a few minutes to enjoy a sniff.

The Chandalar Shelf was visible, but Table Mountain (6,314 ft.), where Lupe had such an incredible adventure not that long ago, and all other peaks in this region were completely hidden from view.

The **Chandalar Shelf** from the **Dalton Highway pullout at MP 238**. Photo looks SE.

8-31-22, 6:02 PM, 50ºF, Dalton Highway MP 207 – SPHP was glad to get back to pavement at MP 209, stopping only a couple of miles farther at the pullout near Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.). The clouds were higher and brighter here, with only light rain.

Hungry, Loop? We haven’t had much to eat today.

Famished, SPHP! Say, isn’t this the start of my 2016 Last Mile North?

Yup! I’ll heat us up something for dinner, then we’ll do your 2016 last mile N hike again, since it’s always relaxing and so much fun.

Chicken and dumplings, plus Ritz crackers, were what was for dinner. Lupe was happy with that.

8-31-22, 7:08 PM – The Carolina Dog was even happier when she got to repeat her 2016 last mile N for the 3rd time on this Dingo Vacation. Still overcast, but the rain was only intermittent by the time she crossed the Dalton Highway, and went past the gate over the access road leading to the Alaska oil pipeline.

Heading out for a romp along the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks NW.

The familiar 1+ mile stroll N along the pipeline right-of-way was as easy and pleasant as always. A little sunshine on the mountains would have been nice, but that clearly wasn’t in the cards. Even so, the cool, moist gloom did nothing to dampen the American Dingo’s spirits, and the fall colors now at their height here added scenic brilliance.

**Dillon Mountain** from the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks E.

Falls colors along the pipeline right-of-way. Photo looks NE.

Upon reaching Dillon Creek, Lupe turned W into the mossy forest where nature had rolled out the red carpet for her. The forest rang with the shrill bark of the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood once more, as she sniffed and explored, racing this way and that while searching for squirrels with some success.

8-31-22, 8:01 PM – 0.6 mile from the Alaska oil pipeline, Lupe reached the confluence of the Dietrich River and Dillon Creek. This was the endpoint of her now traditional 2016 last mile N trek. Another 10 miles N, the top of Lupe’s Mountain of the Midnight Sun was wrapped in clouds, as had been the case every time this Dingo Vacation. Nevertheless, it was still amazing just being back at this magical place again.

At the confluence of the **Dietrich River** (L) and **Dillon Creek** (R). Lupe’s **Mountain of the Midnight** **Sun** (L of Center). Photo looks N.

Must have been raining practically every day since we were last here prior to heading N for Deadhorse, SPHP. The river is higher now.

Highest we’ve ever seen it, Loop, but then we’re always here in August. Bet even Dillon Creek is a torrent when the snow melts in late spring.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, congratulating the Carolina Dog on her return to this long favorite spot, once the farthest N she had ever been. The evening was cool and gray, but Lupe lingered for a little while. Back to the S, Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) was nearly cloud-free. Its soaring N fin didn’t look as dramatic as usual against the drab sky.

**Sukakpak Mountain** (Center), **Dietrich River** (R). Photo looks S.

Sadly, unless things changed in a hurry, which appeared very unlikely, Lupe wasn’t going to get to climb Sukakpak Mountain again on this Dingo Vacation.

Not looking too good for Poss Mountain (6,180 ft.), either, is it, SPHP?

Afraid not, Loopster. We may never get there.

A last glance up Dillon Creek, and SPHP sighed.

Well, I suppose it’s time, Loop. Onward! Puppy, ho!

**Dillon Creek** (L), **Dillon Mountain** (R). Photo looks ESE.

The return was marvelous as always. Near the end, Lupe tacked on the short extra jaunt S to where the Alaska oil pipeline crossed the Dietrich River. The Dalton Highway bridge was visible from here, as well as the great N fin of Sukakpak Mountain. The rest of the summit region was back in the clouds again.

We’re going to miss this place, aren’t we, SPHP?

Always, Loop. We’re so lucky we ever got to see and experience it.

**Dalton Highway bridge** (Center) over the **Dietrich River**, **Sukakpak Mountain** (R). Photo looks SSE.

9-1-22, 8:16 AM, 48ºF, Dalton Highway MP 207 – Totally overcast again this morning, a slight bluish tint to the clouds the last hopeful sign to cling to as far as any remaining possibility for another adventure in the Brooks Range. Fog drifted among the mountains as Lupe roamed the forest barking at squirrels, while SPHP straightened out the RAV4.

Don’t go too far, Loop! We’ll be heading S in just a few minutes.

9-1-22, 9:45 AM, 50ºF, MP 175, Coldfoot Camp – Gas was still $7.49 per gallon, but the breakfast buffet was terrific! $16.95, tax included. After a hearty meal, SPHP bought a souvenir at the gift shop, then brought Lupe 5 big strips of bacon. She only got 1 of them right away, though.

Started raining again, so the Brooks Range was definitely over and done with for this Dingo Vacation. Before continuing S, Lupe dropped by the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center just across the highway, and received a 2nd bacon strip.

The **Artic Interagency Visitor Center** at Coldfoot.

9-1-22, 12:32 PM, 57ºF, MP 115 – Intermittent rain kept the rest of the drive S through the Brooks Range sloppy. Nearly 2 weeks after crossing the Arctic Circle, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood reached it again. Conditions were drier here. A 3rd bacon strip helped celebrate the occasion.

We’ve been up N a while, haven’t we, SPHP? Seems like the Arctic Circle is way down S now!

Yeah! We’ve had quite a time, Loopster. Been fabulous! So glad we came, and went all the way to Deadhorse again!

It’s been wonderful, SPHP! Where to now, though?

Not entirely sure. Don’t have to worry about that quite yet, anyway, Loop. Still have a few stops ahead of us before we get back to Fairbanks. Getting low on supplies, so we’ll buy some there, then figure it out.

9-1-22, 1:28 PM, 49ºF, Dalton Highway MP 98 – Raining again, but Lupe had to stop here! Climbing Finger Mountain (2,202 ft.) wouldn’t take long. Even beneath the dull, gray sky, the colors along the short nature trail winding up to the collection of boulders forming the summit were incredibly vivid. So much orange and red that the scenery looked fake!

**Finger Mountain summit** (L of Center) from the nature trail. Photo looks NW.

Despite the rain, Caribou Mountain (3,179 ft.) was dimly visible 7 miles WNW. Lupe had been there before, too, but that was an all day affair.

**Caribou Mountain** (Center) beyond the **Dalton Highway**. Photo looks WNW.

Of course, the American Dingo couldn’t complete the tiny scramble to the top all on her own. Those 2 summit boulders were way too tall! As usual, SPHP helped Lupe out with a boost.

How many times have I been up here, SPHP? Do you remember?

This is your 7th ascent of Finger Mountain, Loop!

Lucky me, SPHP!

You certainly are, Loopster! Bet you hold the Dingo world record for Finger Mountain ascents!

7th time on the none-too-roomy **Finger Mountain summit**.

**Finger Mountain wayside** (L). **Dalton Highway** (R). Photo looks SE.

As a reward for Lupe’s latest successful ascent of Finger Mountain, SPHP doled out the 4th of the 5 bacon strips from Coldfoot Camp.

You gorged yourself at the breakfast buffet, SPHP! I know you did! Why so stingy about doling out my bacon strips?

Gives you something to look forward to at every stop, Loop. You should be glad I’m distributing them one by one.

Even Carolina Dogs have a hard time celebrating deliberate deprivation, SPHP!

9-1-22, 2:44 PM, 56ºF, MP 56 – Be that as it may, the Carolina Dog seemed happy enough to get the 5th and final bacon strip upon reaching the bridge over the Yukon River again. A tour bus arrived at the same time. Fortunately, the local tour started off with everyone paying a visit to the nearby Yukon River Camp. Meanwhile, Lupe had the N bank of the river all to herself during a short sniff along the water’s edge.

Along the **N shore of the mighty Yukon River**. Photo looks W.

**Dalton Highway bridge** over the **Yukon River**. Photo looks S.

9-1-22, 4:14 PM, 57ºF – Well, sadly, inevitably, it was over. Once again, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood stood by the sign at the start of the Dalton Highway, two full weeks of glorious adventures along this road to the true Arctic now in the rear view mirror.

Back at the **start of the Dalton Highway**.

I understand what you mean about the advantages of doling out the bacon strips gradually now, SPHP! Are you sure you don’t have one more?

Sorry, Loop. 5 was all I had. You ate the last one back at the Yukon River.

In that case, you should have brought me 6 from the buffet, SPHP! Surely, the start of the Dalton Highway is worthy of a bacon strip!

Absolutely, Loop! Next time, I’ll have to be more careful with the count.

A lot of good that does me now, SPHP!

Life has its little disappointments, Loopster. Let’s just be grateful for all the marvelous adventures we’ve had.

Oh, I am, SPHP! We had some grand times along the Dalton Highway. Hope it won’t be so long next time before we return!

9-1-22, 5:50 PM, 57ºF, Fairbanks – The pavement was actually dry along much of the Elliot Highway, but by the time Lupe reached Fairbanks the sky was spitting rain again. SPHP spent a couple of hours getting free potable water at Pioneer Park, buying supplies, and fueling up the RAV4 at the now super cheap by comparison price of a mere $4.49 per gallon.

This roasted lemon pepper chicken was a great idea, SPHP! Delicious!

Yup, we’ve done a number on it, too, Loop. Not much left.

So, what now, SPHP?

Depends. Let me check the weather forecast on our fancy schmancy new iPhone. Hmm. Not that great. Sunny tomorrow, but rainy after that.

Any mountains we can climb around here in a day, SPHP?

Oh, I think we’ve got a good option on your list of possibilities, Loop. Been on your list for years. Maybe it’s about time we checked it out?

Onward then, SPHP!

9-1-22, 8:00 PM, Fairbanks – The sky was merely overcast when Lupe left Fairbanks heading N again. At Fox, SPHP took the Steese Highway. Rain showers returned as the light began to fade.

9-1-22, 8:53 PM, Upper Chatanika River State Recreation Site – A sniff along the Chatanika River proved to be Lupe’s last chance to stretch near the end of a day spent mostly in the RAV4. She didn’t go far, but if the forecast was right, the Carolina Dog would be back in action tomorrow!