Days 8 & 9 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!
6-14-23, 2:02 PM, Conejos River valley – Two signs. One said Conejos Lake Fork Ranch, the other was the one SPHP had been looking for.
Here we go, Loopster! USFS Road No. 105. Want out for a quick sniff?
Of course, she did. Leaping out of the RAV4, Lupe was excited. Beneath a deep blue sky, countless bright yellow dandelions flourished along the shoulders of No. 105. The mountain air was pleasantly warm, the valley green and alive in mid-June. Looking SW from the junction, a very high snow-capped ridge was in sight.
Love it already, SPHP! This is Dingo territory, pure and simple.
Terrific! Figured it would be, Loop. Ready to keep going?
During the drive up the Conejos River valley along County Road No. 250, the river had been full bank to bank. In fact, there’d been warning signs about flooding way back at Antonito. Fortunately, the USFS Road No. 105 bridge over the river was intact. After crossing it, a 5.5 mile drive up to the Rincon trailhead commenced.
Lupe’s buddy, Dennis Stewart, had once written a trip report saying that USFS Road No. 105 was a bad road. Driving a Ford Focus, he’d actually thought it prudent to park 0.5 mile before getting to the trailhead.
Dennis was right! Nothing had changed since he’d been here. No. 105 started out as a narrow, but fine road. However, as it wound higher way up on the steep-sided Saddle Creek valley, the road rapidly deteriorated. By the time a junction with USFS Road No. 100 appeared 3 miles in, SPHP had the RAV4 barely crawling along.
6-14-23, 2:51 PM, Rincon trailhead – Whew! Near a hairpin turn along No. 105, the RAV4 sat alone, gleaming in the sun at a roomy, flat parking area that in a pinch might accommodate a dozen vehicles.
Nicely done, SPHP! Took a while to get here, but at least you didn’t tear out the bottom of the RAV4, or send us careening over any precipices.
Thank heavens we didn’t meet any oncoming traffic, Loop! Bad enough as it was. There’s actually a trailhead for Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 another mile farther somewhere off along spur No. 105.3A, but this is as far as I’m driving on these roads.
In the evening, Lupe made an exploratory trek up to the Tobacco Lake trailhead, finding only an empty metal box atop a metal pole there, and on the way to it, a view of enormous, mostly snowy, rounded hills.
Are any of those mountains Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.), SPHP?
I don’t know, Loop. The highest one would be it, if any of them are.
This reconnaisance did yield some useful information. First, this was not rugged territory. Second, even so, getting to Conejos Peak might be harder than anticipated. Long stretches of USFS Road No. 105.3A were soft and mucky, or even under water, and so were the open fields along it. Furthermore, the forest was full of snow drifts 3 or 4 feet deep.
Colorado reportedly had a snowpack 70% above normal last winter. Maybe Lupe had arrived too early in the season?
6-15-23, 7:57 AM, Rincon trailhead – Directly across USFS Road No. 105, Lupe stood waiting next to an old wooden post protruding from a cairn. Beyond the Carolina Dog, a trail covered with deadfall even right at the start disappeared into the forest. 720, the number for the Roaring Gulch Trail, was carved into the top of the post, despite SPHP’s maps showing this as Rincon Trail No. 722.
Conejos Peak, or bust! Let’s hit it, Loopster. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Immediately beyond the initial deadfall, a couple of small snowbanks were on the trail. Easily passed, the trail was dry for a little way after that, except for numerous small streams, several of which had old wooden bridges over them.
Situated on the N side of the Saddle Creek valley, Rincon Trail No. 722 headed WSW. As Lupe gained elevation, she soon started coming to more and bigger snowbanks across the trail, and larger deadfall, too. Before long, progress slowed greatly. The American Dingo was spending just as much time wandering through the forest searching for the trail amid all the snow, deadfall, and mushy, wet ground in between, as on it.
Fortunately, the snow generally held even SPHP’s weight. Lupe had no problem trotting right along the top of snow ridges. Meanwhile, Saddle Creek could be heard roaring somewhere down in the forest off to the L, and the trail eventually came to it.
Even after reaching Saddle Creek, the trail seldom remained within sight of it. 0.5 mile from the trailhead, Lupe reached a spot SPHP wanted to check out, the place where Rincon Trail No. 722 crossed Saddle Creek.
The stream had great flow at this point, but was spread out enough so it was only a foot or two deep. On the opposite bank, snow blanketed the forest floor.
Well, this is good news, Looper, just not quite as good as I’d hoped.
What’s good news, SPHP?
Saddle Creek is shallow enough so we can easily ford it. I’d been hoping for a bridge, but this will do.
We’re fording the creek here, SPHP?
Yup, but not yet, Loopster. The plan is to explore our way NW from here up to Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719, visit Conejos Peak, and Peak 12555, if we’ve got enough time and energy, then complete a loop back down to this point. Didn’t want to do all that only to find out that we couldn’t get back across Saddle Creek, so we had to follow the trail at least this far before striking out for the Tobacco Lake Trail.
I suppose that makes sense. Our bushwhack begins now then, SPHP?
Correctamundo, Sweet Puppy!
Abandoning Rincon Trail No. 722 at the ford without crossing Saddle Creek, Lupe headed NW. Gaining elevation only gradually at first, she explored a forest where the entire mountainside seemed to be seeping water. The American Dingo dodged trees, deadfall, pussy willows and other bushes, marshy regions, and many small streams in this area.
Reaching steeper terrain, the ground was drier and nearly snow-free. Partway up the slope, a sunny clearing provided a good spot to take a short rest break near a small stream.
After sharing a bit of beef jerky, the march higher continued. The forest thinned, then ended, as Lupe reached much flatter terrain. A gigantic snowfield was now ahead. Huge ridges leading to Conejos Peak, which was now visible off to the W, were full of snow, too, along with much of the upper Saddle Creek valley. Only areas with significant S exposure, like the big hill beyond the snowfield, were mostly snow-free.
Keep heading NW, Loopster. That big hill must be HP12429. Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 is somewhere between us and it.
After crossing this first snowfield, the terrain steepened again. Climbing through a zone of scattered trees, the American Dingo discovered a path just above it at the base of a rock slide.
Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719, I presume, SPHP?
None other, Looper. Good job!
Lupe had reached the Tobacco Lake trail at a big cairn near a flat, grassy area. SPHP was ready for another break, and this seemed like a suitable spot. Overhead, earlier clear skies were now clouding over, putting a bit of a chill in the air.
SPHP’s oxygen deficiency temporarily rectified, Lupe pressed on, now following Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 NW. The scenery was spectacular, and the trail soon vanished beneath all the incredible snow. Climbing steadily at a generally gradual pace, Lupe crossed one snowfield after another separated only by short stretches of grass and tundra. Exactly where the trail was became harder and harder to determine.
Didn’t really matter, since the direction she needed to go was clear.
Happily, the snowfields didn’t have much slope to them, and SPHP rarely post-holed. The Carolina Dog trotted on, enthusiastic about the entire endeavor, especially after spotting a couple of giant deers way up on the ridge W of HP12429. Even though the giant deers were much higher and far away, seeing them was a thrill.
After making good progress and reaching another snow-free area, a steeper snowfield was ahead. Even so, it wasn’t steep enough to cause any difficulties. Angling W, Lupe went right on up, SPHP huffing and puffing along behind. The American Dingo was getting well up in the world, but still wasn’t as high as Peak 12555, now in sight 2.5 miles SE.
Above this first steepish snowfield, Lupe came to a large, flat snow-free region. Dotted with clumps of low brown bushes, most of this area was covered with thick grass. A frozen lake soon appeared ahead.
6-15-23, 11:00 AM – Tobacco Lake wasn’t completely frozen over. A fair amount of open water was over toward the SE end. From the NE shore where Lupe reached the lake, she had a grand view of Conejos Peak and the big snowy ridges leading to it beyond the opposite shore.
Need another rest break, SPHP? We can hang out by the lake, if you like.
Sounds like a plan, Loop.
The conniving Dingo was only after more beef jerky, but that was OK. By now, SPHP was confident Lupe was going to get to Conejos Peak despite all the snow. A 10 mph W wind seemed the only reason for concern.
We’re doing great! Only 900 feet of elevation gain left, Loopster. Wonder how windy it’s going to be up on that ridge S of HP13044, though? We’re pretty sheltered down here.
Hope it isn’t too bad, SPHP. We Carolina Dogs don’t like wind much.
Probably going to have to deal with some today, Looper, like it or not.
The beef jerky SPHP was willing to part with here having been inhaled almost instantly, it was soon time to bid Tobacco Lake farewell. After circling around the N shore, Lupe turned SW starting up another steep snowfield. Before long, a lovely Dingo’s eye view of Tobacco Lake was behind her.
Above this second steepish snowfield, Lupe once again came to a broad, snow-free, relatively flat region. Quite boggy, this area was full of the same type of low brown bushes that had been down by Tobacco Lake. HP13044 was now just ahead, with a partly snow-free slope leading to it.
In no rush to reach the ridge between HP13044 and Conejos Peak, Lupe turned S. Following lanes between the bushes, she made it to a grassy region where Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 reappeared. A series of cairns marked the faint path’s course.
Once the Tobacco Lake trail vanished beneath the snow again, it was time to face the last 300 foot high snowfield leading to the upper ridge. Turning W, Lupe began her ascent.
Cake! No problems at all. Gaining the broad, rounded ridge connecting HP13044 and Conejos Peak, the terrain flattened as the snowfield came to an end. When Lupe got high enough to see the territory beyond the wind-swept, snow-free crest, SPHP was shocked. Maybe 10 miles NW, a line of more rugged peaks stood blanketed in snow beneath a dark gray sky, the most distant summits obscured by a gathering gloom.
My gosh, Loopster! Looks like a storm is coming!
As if this wind isn’t bad enough! We better get there, SPHP!
Turning S, the American Dingo headed for Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.).
Staying toward the E, a bit below the ridge crest, helped a little, but the W wind was still 20-25 mph up here. The ridge had a barren look to it, covered mainly with small scree, but there was actually great beauty, too. Clumps of tiny wildflowers clung tenaciously to what soil there was.
Skirting the upper E side of a low hill along the ridge, the terrain beyond it flattened out completely. Lupe now felt the full force of a 30 mph gale, but she was almost there! Less than 200 feet higher, Conejos Peak was directly ahead.
Off to the NW, more wild mountains were seen beneath a threatening sky, as Lupe headed up a steep NE slope in the cold wind. Once above the steep part, a cairn was visible 250 feet farther W, only 30 feet higher. This final stroll into the teeth of the wind across a carpet of scree and tundra was full of joy.
6-15-23, 12:52 PM, 42ºF, Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.) – The wind was only 15 mph out of the W when the American Dingo arrived at the summit cairn. A stunning panorama greeted her. Strung out from the S all the way around to the W and NW, many high peaks were in sight looking all the more spectacular blanketed beneath an incredible amount of snow.
For a few moments, Lupe was in sunshine. Virtually everywhere else the sky was overcast, any small patches of blue rapidly retreating SE. To the W and NW, the mountains looked fearsome beneath a dramatic sky.
Look, SPHP! A blizzard is coming!
A blizzard? Can’t be, Loopster. For pity sake, it’s practically the longest day of the year!
Are you blind? I’m telling you, it’s coming, SPHP!
One by one, the mountains were vanishing from view.
Just a squall, sweet puppy! Or, at least, it better be. Quick, get up on that cairn before we’re engulfed, too!
Nice, Loop! Couple more shots before it’s too late, then we’ll take a break.
Gramps Peak (12,320 ft.) and Chalk Benchmark (12,031 ft.) stood out to the S beyond snow-covered highlands, pointy Fets Peak (12,127 ft.) between them. Looking N, only Tobacco Lake and the territory recently traveled remained in sight.
Grabbing a glass jar from the cairn, SPHP sat down facing Peak 12555, away from the wind. As snow granules began pelting Conejos Peak, the Carolina Dog curled up on SPHP’s lap. SPHP threw a jacket over her.
Guess we just wait it out now, Looper. By the way, congratulations on your magnificent ascent of Conejos Peak!
Thank you, SPHP! Any beef jerky left to celebrate with?
Yes! Water and Taste of the Wild, too.
Lupe chowed down as snow granules came thick and fast. It was hard to believe that a blizzard could really becoming in mid-June, but conditions continued to deteriorate. However, the snow granules weren’t sticking. They all melted as soon as they hit the ground.
Opening the glass jar, a fairly new registry was inside. Consisting of long, narrow sheets of paper stapled together, the first few pages were full. After reading a number of entries, SPHP added Lupe’s name to the list, then returned the registry to the jar.
The wind blew, snow granules flew, views vanished. Comfy and warm, Lupe stayed on SPHP’s lap. And that was about it. The Carolina Dog’s traditional summit hour was nearly over by the time the squall passed. The weather cleared, but only partially. Another squall was coming out of the WNW.
Picture time, Loopster! Here’s our chance.
6-15-23, 2:09 PM – How swiftly times flies! The registry jar was back in its proper place. For the last time, Lupe stood perched atop the summit cairn. By now, it had become clear that the second squall was destined to completely miss Conejos Peak to the N. No sign of a third one.
Weather is getting better, SPHP! Still time enough to visit Peak 12555?
Yeah, lucky for us, they sure don’t make blizzards like they used to, do they, Looper? We’ve got to head in that direction anyway, if you’re going to do your big loop. Provided we’ve still got the energy once we get closer, we’ll hit Peak 12555, too. Onward! Puppy, ho!
Leaping off the cairn, Lupe headed ESE down Conejos Peak’s enormous E ridge. Another cairn was only a couple of minutes away, marking the route back to Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719.
The 1.5 mile long trek down the gentle tundra slopes of the E ridge was fun, fast, and easy. Staying toward the N, Lupe enjoyed a tremendous view of Tobacco Lake and the upper Saddle Creek valley. Before long, a rockier region appeared ahead. No matter. Slowed SPHP’s progress only a little, and Lupe reached tundra again after passing the rocky spots.
Somewhere along the way, Tobacco Lake Trail No. 719 turned SW and disappeared, but that didn’t matter on this glorious open terrain, either. However, when a line of small cliffs started developing toward the S, SPHP began to wonder if Lupe was going to cliff out at some point, and have to backtrack a bit?
Didn’t happen. Happily, no backtracking required. Lupe came to a very short little scrambly part, but it was easily dealt with. Clear sailing the rest of the way down to Rincon Trail No. 722, the only caveat being that huge portions of the gently sloping grasslands below the scramble were hidden beneath a vast field of foot deep slushy snow.
Missing the trail, the Carolina Dog headed NE down to a marshy region. No snow here, but plenty of shallow standing water. Sloshing through it amid more of the low brown bushes of the type first encountered at Tobacco Lake, it was decision time.
Peak 12555 was now a good mile SE. The terrain leading to it all looked perfectly easy, but the summit was another 500+ feet higher. On the other paw, Rincon Trail No. 722 leading back to Saddle Creek wasn’t any more than 0.2 mile NW, and a mere 50 feet higher. All downhill from there, too!
So, how are you feeling, SPHP? We’re as close to Peak 12555 right now as we’re ever going to be. Still want to do it?
Guess the elevation’s getting to me, Loop. Any uphill at all feels like more of a trudge than I’m really looking forward to at this point.
Aww, come on! It’s just a big hill! You can stop for breathers as often as you like, SPHP.
Yeah, “big” and “hill” are the only parts I have any objection to, but you’re right, Loopster. We’re here. Let’s do it. Onward! Puppy, ho!
6-15-23, 4:38 PM, 48ºF, Peak 12555 – The highest points of a nearly level plain of grass were along the precipitous E edge of a vast summit region. Lupe arrived in a chilly 20 mph W wind, discovering 2 cairns perched along this edge, and a long, thin snowbank clinging a few feet below the rim. A big crack snaking lengthwise down the middle of this snowbank showed that half of it would soon be doomed to plunge into the abyss.
Sensing something out on this enormous plain, Lupe dashed off to do some furious digging. Meanwhile, SPHP was surprised to see a glass jar at the base of the S cairn.
Although unproductive, evidently the digging was very satisfying. The American Dingo soon returned with a big smile.
Anything left to eat, SPHP?
Taste of the Wild is it, Loopster. And water, if you need it.
Some of both, please!
After eating only part of her Taste of the Wild, Lupe laid down next to the cairn.
Found another registry here, SPHP?
Yes, seems a rather unlikely spot for one, but I’m adding your name, Loop. Oddly, whoever started this registry last October didn’t even add their own name. The only entry before yours was made only 5 days ago on 6-10-23.
As the excitement of the digging wore off, the effects of a long day in the mountains soon had Lupe nodding off. SPHP let her doze.
Although they weren’t up to Conejos Peak standards, the views were all beautiful. To the E, a long section of the Conejos River valley was in sight. Gramps Peak, Fets Peak, and Chalk Benchmark were all off to the SW. A distant glimpse of Peak 12727 and Snow Benchmark was due W. The best view of all, though, was looking WNW back at Conejos Peak and the long E ridge Lupe had come down.
With miles to go along a partially unexplored route, Lupe couldn’t stay long. Her nap had done her some good, though, and the rest break had helped SPHP, too. Less than half an hour after arriving, Lupe left the cairns along the E edge of Peak 12555 heading NW.
During her descent, Lupe went over both HP12221 and HP12160. Finding another cairn atop the latter, she paused for a final look at Conejos Peak from this last high point.
Heading down HP12160‘s SW slope, Lupe found Rincon Trail No. 722. After curving NE, the trail made one big switchback back to the W on HP12160‘s N slope, before veering NE again.
But the Carolina Dog didn’t go NE. Entering the forest, the trail vanished beneath feet of snow. Turning NW, Lupe once again abandoned the trail, starting a steep descent on a mostly forested slope. Deadfall to contend with, but this slope was snow-free.
It was a long way down to an amazing hidden valley S of where Rincon Trail No. 722 crosses Saddle Creek. After crossing a tributary, Lupe still wound up traveling N on huge mounds of snow through deep woods. However, she’d already lost most of the elevation she needed too, and before long came out right where she was supposed to at the Rincon Trail ford on Saddle Creek.
Boots and socks already soaking wet from all the snowfields, SPHP was first to wade right in. Lupe soon followed. The rest of the return along Rincon Trail No. 722 was uneventful. Determining which way the trail went beneath all the mounds of snow seemed easier going downhill.
6-15-23, 7:22 PM, 50ºF, Rincon trailhead along USFS Road No. 105 – It was over. Conejos Peak and Peak 12555 had been a long, but spectacular and successful day. Both weary, Lupe was on her pink blanket in the RAV4, while SPHP heated up chicken and dumplings for dinner.
Conejos Peak was the first mountain the American Dingo ever climbed in the mighty San Juan Range, but wasn’t going to be the last. In fact, Lupe might have seen her next objective while up on Conejos Peak. It had been somewhere off to the NW, lost or unrecognized in the brewing snow granule mini-blizzard.
SPHP wondered what she would find there?
Links:
Next Adventure Prior Adventure
Conejos Peak GPS Track (Scrollable Ascent)
Peak 12555 GPS Track (Scrollable Ascent)
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