Day 4 of Lupe’s summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska.
Well, Looper, how about we go see Lake Louise again before hitting the trail? Lupe was all for it, which was a good thing, since SPHP would have pretty much insisted on it. The view of snow-clad Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise is among the most beautiful and famous scenes in the Canadian Rockies.
The stroll down the trail from the upper parking lot to the boat house where they rent out canoes took only a few minutes. Suddenly, Lupe was back at Lake Louise for the first time since her summer of 2014 Dingo Vacation over 2 years ago. The tranquil, turquoise lake was as gorgeous as ever. Maybe there was a little less snow on Mount Victoria, but it was still an awesome scene.
It was still relatively early (7:11 AM, 39°F). No one was out on the lake yet, although the usual crowd from Chateau Lac Louise was already gathering to admire the scene. Lupe and SPHP ambled over closer to the grand hotel. See that mountain, Loop? That’s Fairview Mountain (8,986 ft.) where you’re going today!
Lupe posed for a photo from the shore of Lake Louise with Fairview Mountain in the background. A couple minutes later, when she jumped up on a low rock wall for another shot of Mount Victoria, tourists seemed to think it was quite a trick. Lupe basked in love and admiration. Cameras clicked like she was about to hold a press conference.
Before the Carolina Dog could address her new fans with any long-winded speeches, SPHP led her away. After all, she had a mountain to climb! Lupe and SPHP headed for the Saddleback Trail, which splits off of the short path between the boat house and upper Lake Louise parking lot.
The Saddleback Trail begins climbing through a dense forest at a moderate to fairly steep pace. For quite a distance, there’s little to see except trees. After 0.4 km or so, Lupe passed by junctions with the Moraine Lake Highline trail and the Fairview Overlook trail. A sign said the Fairview Overlook trail went 0.7 km to the viewpoint, which presumably looks out over Lake Louise. A 2.3 km loop can be made back to the boat house.
The Fairview Overlook trail sounded like a nice little jaunt, likely rewarded with a great view of Lake Louise, but Lupe was going higher, much higher! Lupe and SPHP pressed on. Lupe had easily gone over half of the 3.7 km from Lake Louise to Saddleback Pass by the time she reached the first big opening in the forest. Now Lupe could see Saddle Mountain up ahead.
The slope up to Saddle Pass became steeper. Switchbacks appeared along the trail to help make the climb easier. As Lupe gained elevation, more glorious sights began to appear. Soon she could see the snowy summit of Mount Temple (11,614 ft.) poking up over Saddle Pass.
As Lupe neared Saddle Pass, the trail gained elevation much more gradually than before. Sheol Mountain (9,117 ft.) and Haddo Peak (10,072 ft.) were in view directly ahead.
When Lupe reached Saddle Pass, she came upon a sign clearly marking the side trail that goes the rest of the way up Fairview Mountain. The Saddleback Trail continued over the pass down into Sheol Valley, eventually reaching Paradise Valley far below.
Lupe and SPHP left the Saddleback trail to take the side trail up Fairview Mountain. The side trail passed through a short section of forest, then began a steep rocky ascent above tree line.
There was a fair amount of loose rock on the steep, narrow trail, but Lupe had no problem climbing up. She had plenty of opportunity to relax and enjoy the views while SPHP frequently paused for air. Lupe followed the trail all the way to the summit of Fairview Mountain. Magnificent views were in every direction, but Mount Victoria was the first splendor to attract the eye.
Despite the splendid mountain scenery all around, a different view caught and held Lupe’s attention. A chipmunk was only a few paces away right here at the very top of Fairview Mountain!
The nimble chipmunk was a world class, lightning fast, scrambler. Lupe stared helplessly at the enticing Dingo treat. Meanwhile, the chipmunk pondered how to get safely past Lupe to plead for a handout. During the impasse, SPHP admired the planet from this terrific vantage point, occasionally interrupting Lupe’s reverie to demand that she pose for the camera.
For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP were alone at the top of Fairview Mountain. After that, a steady stream of climbers came and went. Lupe and SPHP met Krystin, a civil engineer from Calgary, who had once scrambled up Mount Temple. SPHP was mightily impressed, but Krystin said lots of people do it, although certain moves are required going up a band of cliffs.
Scrambling up Mount Temple didn’t sound like anything Lupe and SPHP could tackle. Lupe settled for having her picture taken with Krystin.
People came and went. SPHP chatted with Krystin and a few others. The chipmunk stuffed its cheeks with peanuts, raisins and granola offered by the crowd, unmolested by Lupe. Conditions were perfect for hanging around enjoying the stupendous views!
After more than 2 wonderful hours on Fairview Mountain, it was time for Lupe to get moving again. SPHP intended to simply follow the spur trail up Fairview Mountain all the way back down to Saddle Pass. Somehow though, before getting even 0.25 of the way down, SPHP realized Lupe was off the intended trail and on some kind of steep shortcut.
Lots of others had come this way, too, but the shortcut didn’t really save any time. The very steep “trail” eventually evaporated in a jumble of boulders. When Lupe and SPHP finally reached the Saddleback Trail again, Lupe had to take it back up to Saddle Pass. Lupe wasn’t ready to return to Lake Louise quite yet! She was going to climb Saddle Mountain, too.
SPHP looked for a side trail off the Saddleback Trail leading to Saddle Mountain, but found none, despite there being one on the maps. Lupe and SPHP finally just headed into the forest toward the mountain. As Lupe climbed Saddle Mountain’s W ridge, she did come to a faint, braided trail among the rocks.
The summit ridge on Saddle Mountain was hundreds of feet long NE/SW with high points toward each end. Lupe arrived first up at the SW end where there was a big cairn. Although Saddle Mountain isn’t nearly as high as Fairview Mountain, it did offer beautiful views farther up Paradise Valley.
Since the high point near the NE end of the summit ridge appeared to be slightly higher than the one near the cairn at the SW end, Lupe had to go over there to reach the true summit of Saddle Mountain. By the time she got there, Lupe and SPHP were no longer entirely alone. Another climber had appeared back at the cairn.
The other climber was gone by the time Lupe returned to the cairn at the SW high point. Lupe and SPHP spent a fabulous 30 minutes in solitude on Saddle Mountain. Then it was time to begin the return trip to Lake Louise.
It was almost dinner time for the American Dingo by the time she was back at the G6 (5:27 PM, 78°F). Instead of eating right away, though, Lupe and SPHP left Lake Louise heading N on Hwy 1 to Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.
Lupe arrived at the picnic ground on the E shore of lovely Bow Lake in time to have her evening meal there. By then the sky had clouded up. Although the mountaintops were no longer in view, the gloomy sky soon caused everyone else to depart. Lupe and SPHP had Bow Lake to themselves.
Tomorrow, Lupe would continue N to more adventures in the Canadian Rockies, hoping for a break in the clouds. In the meantime, though, Lupe dined and relaxed listening to gentle waves breaking on the shore of Bow Lake.
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