Kachemak Bay State Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Poot Peak, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (9-1-18)

Day 29 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

7:40 AM, Homer Spit – Ten minutes after Mako’s Water Taxi opened, Lupe sauntered in. The American Dingo had such a good time on the Alpine Ridge trail going to see the Grewingk Glacier yesterday, that SPHP wanted to find out if there was any chance she might be able to return to Kachemak Bay State Park for an attempt on Poot Peak (2,585 ft.)?

Absolutely! Lupe can depart Homer Spit aboard the Orca at 8:00 AM, with a 4:30 PM pickup at Halibut Cove Lagoon. $85.70 total round trip for SPHP, all fees and taxes included, and Dingoes ride free.

Wow! Sounded great! Without the slightest hesitation, or even giving it a moment’s thought, SPHP agreed. After forking over a credit card for payment, Lupe was all set. Half an hour later, the Carolina Dog was aboard the Orca racing across Kachemak Bay toward Halibut Cove for the second day in a row.

Lupe and SPHP stayed up front sitting on a tote box outside the skipper’s cabin. The sky was clearer, and the wind greatly diminished from the conditions prevailing yesterday. The voyage aboard the Orca was much smoother than the bumpy, sometimes jarring, ride over choppy seas aboard the Smokey Bay the day before. Colder out today, though. SPHP’s hands were soon freezing hanging onto the metal railing. Should have worn gloves!

The only other passengers, a couple from Illinois, stayed in the heated cabin. Once across Kachemak Bay, the Orca dropped them off at the Glacier Spit trailhead. Lupe was next! Poot Peak (2,585 ft.) was in sight as the Orca entered Halibut Cove Lagoon on the way to the big dock at the S end near the ranger station.

*So that’s **Poot Peak** there on the R? Looks kind of steep, doesn’t it, SPHP?* Aboard the Orca in **Halibut Cove Lagoon**. Photo looks S.

The skipper pointed out sea otters playing in the lagoon. The little wakes they made in the water gave away their positions, but they were too far from the Orca to get a good look at them. A few minutes later, Lupe was disembarking at the huge dock. As soon as Lupe and SPHP were safely off, the Orca turned and sped away.

At the huge dock at the S end of Halibut Cove Lagoon.

The Orca departs. Photo looks N across **Halibut Cove Lagoon**.

8:40 AM, Halibut Cove Lagoon dock – As the Orca receded, Lupe and SPHP turned and went up the metal ramp leading away from the dock to the ranger station. An impressive sign welcomed Lupe to Kachemak Bay State Park, but the ranger station was closed. SPHP filled in the registry, and took a look at the posted map of the trail system.

Cool sign, don’t ya think, Loop? …… Yes, indeed, SPHP! Kind of reminds me of the sign at that other park. What was it again? Jurassic Park, I think. Be sure to say something if you see any T Rexes or Velociraptors lurking about!

Trail system map posted at the ranger station.

Past the ranger station, a long stairway led down to a small clearing. Two big planks crossed a tiny stream, beyond which a trail disappeared up into the forest. Lupe followed this trail as it snaked higher through a thick jungle of ferns and bushes beneath a canopy of tall trees.

Crossing the little stream beyond the ranger station.

Five minutes out, suddenly a disturbance occurred in the forest not far from the trail. Lupe started running ahead to investigate, but SPHP called her back. Branches cracked, and bushes shook only 25 feet away, but nothing could be seen of the cause. A moose? More likely a bear.

Whatever it was, was so close to the trail that trying to get past it might be asking for trouble. As the cracking and shaking drew nearer, Lupe and SPHP backed quietly away. After several short retreats, Loopster couldn’t take it any more. The Carolina Dog whimpered softly.

Immediately a great commotion erupted. Violent cracking and shaking! Something big was fleeing! Lupe was tremendously excited, but didn’t budge. Ten seconds, and the jungle fell silent again. Carefully making sure the coast was clear, Lupe resumed her explorations along the trail.

*Probably a T Rex making itself scarce. They know Dingoes rule the earth these days!*

A junction was just ahead. Lupe could go R to the official Halibut Cove Lagoon trailhead, which was different from, and a bit W of, the ranger station trailhead. The other option, and correct choice, was L on the China Poot Lake trail.

After following the China Poot Lake trail S for half an hour, Lupe came to a high point where a spur trail on the R went steeply down to the shore of First Lake. Why not? Would only take a few minutes. Lupe found lily pads floating on the still waters of a sheltered cove, but the spur trail didn’t go any farther.

By now, Lupe had gained 500 feet of elevation since leaving Halibut Cove Lagoon. The China Poot Lake trail leveled out as it crossed a broad ridge heading SSE. Nothing could be seen except the surrounding jungle. The trail was easy to follow, although tree roots made the pathway uneven.

Deep in the green jungle along the China Poot Lake trail.

Once Lupe made it across the broad ridge, the trail began switchbacking down a slope before turning E. For the first time since she had been aboard the Orca, Loopster started catching glimpses of Poot Peak. The mountain was still surprisingly far away.

**Poot Peak** from the China Poot Lake trail. Photo looks SSE.

**Poot Peak** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

After going E for a bit, the trail turned SE. Lupe soon came to a junction with the Moose Valley trail. The China Poot Lake trail turned SW (R) here, while the Moose Valley trail continued SE.

At the intersection with the Moose Valley trail.

Loopster stuck with the China Poot Lake trail. She caught glimpses of Two Loon Lake off to the SE (L), before coming to several side trails, all of which went W (R). Ignoring the side trails, Loop crossed a bridge over a rushing stream, and then a second bridge over a dry wash.

Sign at an intersection with the Coalition Loop trail.

At the junction with a short spur trail to the public use cabin on China Poot Lake.

When Lupe reached it, China Poot Lake was a bit of a disappointment. The American Dingo was heading S on the China Poot Lake trail only a few feet from the E shore, but trees and bushes still managed to prevent her from getting any clear views of the lake. Part of this section of the trail was slow going, too. Full of exposed roots, the trail made a series of small steep climbs and descents on an embankment crowding the shore.

A rare glimpse of China Poot Lake, even though the trail went right by it. Photo looks W.

11:10 AM – Shortly after the trail left China Poot Lake heading SE, Lupe arrived at a junction with the Poot Peak North trail. Checking the time, SPHP’s heart fell as a sudden realization began to sink in. The American Dingo’s attempt on Poot Peak (2,585 ft.) was almost certainly doomed to failure!

2.5 hours had already gone by. The Poot Peak North trail was supposed to take 3 to 4 hours round trip, plus an additional 1 to 2 hours on the Summit spur to reach the top of the mountain. That totaled 4 to 6 hours to summit and get back here, plus another 2.5 hours to return to Halibut Cove Lagoon. If those figures were right, Lupe wouldn’t be back ready for pickup until 6.5 to 8.5 hours from now, or 5:40 PM to 7:40 PM.

Scheduled pickup was 4:30 PM. The gal at Mako’s had said they might run 15 minutes late, but Loop would still be at least an hour later than that. Only yesterday Lupe had run out of time to complete all that she’d hoped to do up on the Alpine Ridge trail, and this situation was far worse. How could SPHP have let this happen? Why hadn’t the slightest attention been paid to how long it would take simply to get to Poot Peak before booking the water taxi?

Not a single valid excuse. Lupe wasn’t going to make up Poot Peak, and it was all SPHP’s fault.

At the start of the Poot Peak North trail.

Oh, Loopster! I’m so sorry!

Why, what’s wrong, SPHP?

I’m not used to these timed events. If I’d given it even 30 seconds thought I would have insisted on a pickup time 2 or 3 hours later, or just told Mako’s to forget it. I was so excited that a water taxi was available to get us over here right away this morning, that I didn’t stop to consider how long this was going to take. We can’t make it to Poot Peak. It’s already too late in the day. You’ve come all this way, but we’ll be forced to retreat before you stand any chance of reaching the summit.

So this is it? Do we have to turn around now?

No, not yet. We can probably go another hour and 20 minutes, and that’s pushing it. We will have only 3.5 hours to get back. I can’t believe it! Looks like we are going to spend all day running around in the jungle without ever seeing anything.

Oh, we still might see a T Rex. That would be something!

I’ll grant you that.

Well, enough of this standing around, SPHP! As the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I have a reputation at stake here, even if you don’t. Faced with defeat, I can’t slink back tail between my legs. Let’s see how far we can get, unless you have a brighter idea.

SPHP didn’t, which was no great surprise. So once again, a race was on! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood took off leading the way along the Poot Peak North trail. Lupe had only gained 200 feet of net elevation so far, with another 2400 feet to go to get to the summit of Poot Peak. 5 hours and 20 minutes from right now, she was supposed to be back at Halibut Cove Lagoon.

An initial up and down section wasn’t that bad, but then the Poot Peak North trail started climbing steeply. Wet grass and bushes overhung the unmaintained route, although whether due to rain last night or a heavy dew was unclear. In practically no time, Lupe was drenched, and SPHP was soaked nearly to the waist. The trail seemed to be braided in some places. At times, SPHP wasn’t at all certain Loop was on the main route.

The Carolina Dog came to a long stretch where a series of chutes of slick mud and smooth rocks made it difficult for SPHP climb any higher. The chutes were separated by less troublesome sections, and often were only 10 or 12 feet high, but were still problematic. Yesterday Lupe had come to 4 ropes at treacherous spots on the Alpine Ridge trail. The Poot Peak North trail could have used 20 such ropes, but had none. However, by clinging to whatever was available, SPHP managed to creep up or bypass each chute without incident, though doing so chewed up time, and SPHP dreaded the return descent.

Beyond the last of the chutes, the trail finally leveled out to some extent, but was so overgrown that SPHP often wasn’t even able to see it. Each step forward was an act of faith. Meanwhile, however, the forest was starting to thin out. Parts of Poot Peak could sometimes be seen rising sharply hundreds of feet above.

At last, Lupe reached a meadow of tall grass, where the trail was almost flat. One more push higher up a steep scree slope beyond the meadow, and the American Dingo came to a junction. She had made it to the end of the Poot Peak North trail where it met up with the Poot Peak South trail. Loopster was only 0.25 mile N of Poot Peak (2,585 ft.)!

In the meadow before the last push up to the junction with the Poot Peak South trail. Photo looks SW.

On the L is part of **Poot Peak’s 2100 foot N ridge**. Part of the summit ridge is seen on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe reaches the junction of the Poot Peak North & South trails where the spur route to the summit begins.

12:50 PM, Junction of the Poot Peak trails & Summit Route – The bad news was that only 1.1 miles on the Poot Peak North trail had taken SPHP an hour and 40 minutes. Only 10 minutes until it was time to turn around. This junction of the Poot Peak North and South trails was at a mere 1,800 feet of elevation. The glittering, glorious, soaring summit of Poot Peak loomed another 800 feet higher.

Sigh. Simply impossible!

At least this junction was above the forest on open ground. For the first time since entering the jungle, Lupe had some beautiful distant views. Back to the NW, parts of Halibut Cove Lagoon, China Poot Lake, Two Loon Lake and Kachemak Bay were all in sight. To the SE, Lupe could see the Wosnesenski Glacier amid high peaks and smaller snowfields.

At the junction of the Poot Peak North & South trails. Part of **China Poot Lake** is seen beyond Lupe. **Two Loon Lake** is near the sign. **Halibut Cove Lagoon** is on the R. **Kachemak Bay** is in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Looking SE toward the **Wosnesenski Glacier** (slightly L of Center).

Another look with help from the telephoto lens. **Wosnesenski Glacier** on the L.

Loop and SPHP took a short break while enjoying these first real views of the day. Lupe was far less despondent than SPHP. She’d been having a whale of a good time finding squirrels along the North Poot Peak trail while SPHP struggled with the slippery chutes.

To the S, the Summit spur trail wound up a very steep slope of bushes and scree. No way. 1:00 PM. Time to start back. 4 hours and 20 minutes elapsed since drop-off. Only 3.5 hours until pickup. Yet SPHP hesitated. Surely it would be possible to quicken the pace going back? Going down the Poot Peak North trail would be faster than going up, and Lupe hadn’t been in any big rush on the China Poot Lake trail on the way here. SPHP hadn’t realized how short of time she’d been from the very beginning.

800 feet higher, the Poot Peak summit was out of the question. In fact, there had been a good chance all along that Looper might never reach the top of the mountain. Rock climbing training was recommended for anyone attempting to go beyond a 2,100 foot ridge. SPHP had none. So it had always been likely that prudence would force SPHP to face defeat at some point, anyway.

Yet that 2,100 foot ridge, the recommended turnaround point for most people, was only 300 feet higher than where Lupe was right now. She could see it. The ridge was right there! An extra 300 feet might make a huge difference in the views. Not the same as pushing on to the summit by any means, but still a substantial improvement and worthy goal.

**Poot Peak summit** (L). **2,100 foot N ridge** recommended as the turnaround point for those without formal rock climbing training (R). Photo looks SW.

Really no time for this, but maybe Mako actually would run a bit late? If not, perhaps they would wait at least a little while, even if Lupe wasn’t back at the dock ready and waiting right on the dot?

So are we doing this or not, SPHP?

Yeah. Puppy, ho! Onward!

Going up the steep slope, SPHP clung to bushes. Loose scree clattered down, while Lupe easily powered higher. Above the bushes, SPHP had nothing much to hang on to, but the slope soon diminished. This wasn’t any worse than the Poot Peak North trail had been. Before long, the American Dingo was there!

The 2,100 foot N ridge was roomy. Brilliant, beautiful tundra flourished where Loop came up from the E. Rocky high points extended out toward the N. This was so worth it! An Alaskan wilderness panorama extended from the ocean at Kachemak Bay all the way around past the low jungle to snow-clad mountains and the Wosnesenski Glacier.

Only to the S were views blocked by a steep conical scree slope leading to the base of a ragged cap of solid rock atop Poot Peak’s summit ridge. Another 500 feet up! Didn’t look that far, but that capstone didn’t look that easy, either. Hard to tell from here how difficult it might really be.

No time to think about that. This was the end. A short stay, and Lupe would have to be on her way. Just look, look, look – drinking it all in!

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on Poot Peak’s 2,100 foot N ridge. Photo looks SE.

The rocky **N end of the 2,100 foot ridge**. Photo looks NE.

Looking SSW toward the **summit of Poot Peak** (L). No doubt Lupe could have gotten a lot closer to the top of the mountain, but whether SPHP would have been capable of summiting remains forever in doubt.

Looper on the Summit spur trail as it reaches the 2,100 foot ridge. Photo Looks NW.

The tundra was gorgeous! All Christmasy red and green.

**Wosnesenski Glacie**r (L). Photo looks SE.

**Cook Inlet** (L), **Home Spit** (Center), and **Kachemak Bay** (R). Part of **China Poot Lake** is close by on the R. Photo looks NW.

**China Poot Lake** (L), **Two Loon Lake** (closest on R), and **Halibut Cove Lagoon** (distant R). **Kachemak Bay** in the distance. Photo looks NW.

**China Poot Lake** with help from the telephoto lens.

The **Homer Spit** (Center) protruding into **Kachemak Bay** during low tide. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

1:45 PM, Poot Peak’s 2,100 foot N ridge – Egads! A paltry 2.75 hours to pick up time at Halibut Cove Lagoon. 20 glorious, precious minutes on the 2,100 foot ridge had shot by. A reluctant farewell, Poot Peak! Lupe and SPHP started down the Summit spur trail. The race was on again.

Well, sort of on. Lupe could run around practically anywhere, but SPHP had to exercise caution on the steep scree slope back to the Poot Peak North trail, and then again at the many treacherous, slick chutes going down that trail. It wasn’t until Lupe was past all the chutes to the up and down portion of the Poot Peak North trail that SPHP could consistently move at speed.

Suddenly, there was another cracking of branches and swaying of bushes off in the jungle to the L (SW). Again nothing was seen. Whatever the source, it was fleeing, and hadn’t been that close to the trail to begin with. Lupe and SPHP paid little attention, hastening on by.

3:25 PM, China Poot Lake trail – Going down the Poot Peak North trail hadn’t been as bad as SPHP feared, but had once again chewed up a ton of time, due to the caution required. Only an hour and 5 minutes left, and more than 3 miles to go! Hurry, hurry!

Progress was encouragingly faster on the China Poot Lake trail, until 15 minutes after leaving the Poot Peak North trail behind, Lupe suddenly dashed ahead intensely excited. Movement in the forest to the R of the trail! Very close by! Both Lupe and SPHP saw it. A black bear, only 20 feet away!

Remaining on the trail, the American Dingo barked aggressively. SPHP called her back. Loop came instantly, and was quiet. No great cracking of branches and swaying of bushes this time around. This bear did not flee. Retreating only a few feet deeper into the shady forest, the bear turned and peered back at Lupe and SPHP.

Only the bear’s black ears (Center) are visible, as it peers back from the jungle.

Was the bear merely curious? Feeling aggressive? Hungry? For 20 long seconds the staring went on both ways, a silent, motionless contest.

The bear decided to move off, but slowly, pausing every few seconds to check on Lupe. It was enough. Quietly, stealthily, Lupe and SPHP slunk away. Got by the bear! Hit it! The race against time resumed.

Cooling off in **Moose Creek** after the bear stare down.

Even though I never made it to the summit, this Poot Peak adventure has been quite a day, don’t you think? Between the water taxi ride, jungle exploration, scaredy-cat T Rexes, squirrels, views from the the 2,100 foot ridge, and now bears, its been pretty exciting!

4:49 PM, Halibut Cove Lagoon – The ranger station was still closed as Lupe and SPHP rushed by. The dock was empty and quiet. 19 minutes late. No water taxi. No one at all. Completely relaxed, having a fun, mellow time, a lone sea otter played lazily in the incredibly blue, cold waters of Halibut Cove Lagoon.

A sea otter enjoys a sunny afternoon in **Halibut Cove Lagoon**.

While the sea otter relaxed, Lupe finally could, too.

For the second day in a row, nothing to do at the end of a failed race against time, but wait. No telling for how long, but the dock at Halibut Cove Lagoon was an awesome place to be. Lupe relaxed watching the sea otter paddle and play. A giant sea squirrel was just about the strangest thing ever!

Within 10 minutes, the drone of an engine could be heard. A boat was heading this way! The Orca? No. As the craft drew near, SPHP could see it was the considerably smaller Blue Too. The Blue Too pulled up alongside the dock, and a couple of passengers disembarked with all their gear. In smaller letters up on the side of the Blue Too’s cabin roof were the words SPHP was looking for – Mako’s Water Taxi.

The skipper soon asked if Lupe was waiting for pick up. Yes, indeed! Minutes later, Loop and SPHP were out in front of the cabin windows in the cool breeze, while the Blue Too sped across the smooth, sheltered waters of Halibut Cove Lagoon. The Carolina Dog was amazed to see whole flocks, herds, packs of the giant sea squirrels!

Before heading out to Kachemak Bay, the Blue Too stopped by the Saddle trailhead in Halibut Cove to pick up 4 more passengers. Out on the open sea, it was sunny with big clouds. The return voyage was delightful until one of the clouds decided to let loose with a downpour. The shower was brief, but effective. Lupe and SPHP got soaked. No worries. Loop dried off in the breeze before the Blue Too cruised into the Homer Spit harbor.

Approaching the Homer Spit aboard the Blue Too.

5:35 PM, Homer Spit – Upon disembarking from the Blue Too, Looper’s adventures in Kachemak Bay State Park were over. Neither the Alpine Ridge trail to see the Grewingk Glacier yesterday, nor Poot Peak today had gone exactly as planned, but both had been memorable days in the stunningly beautiful Alaskan wilderness.

Still sopping wet, SPHP drove Lupe over to the Marine Park at the start of the Homer Spit. Dinner in the G6 with that grand view of Kachemak Bay, followed by a stroll along the beach. On the far shore, Lupe could see Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.), site of her first ever adventure in Kachemak Bay State Park two years ago now.

The **mountains of Kachemak Bay State Park** from the Marine Park at the start of the Homer Spit. **Grace Ridge** at far R. Photo looks SSE.

**Grace Ridge** across **Kachemak Bay**. Photo looks S.

After a change into dry duds for SPHP, Lupe left Homer at 8:05 PM. She made it to a deserted beach at Ninilchik in time to see the golden sun set between Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.) and Redoubt Volcano (10,197) beyond Cook Inlet.

Sunset across **Cook Inlet** from the beach at **Ninilchik**. **Iliamna Volcano** (L) and **Redoubt Volcano** (R). Photo looks W.

**Iliamna Volcano** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks W.

What a fabulous evening! **Iliamna Volcano** (L).

A beloved American Dingo at the end of a long day of adventures in wild Alaska.

**Redoubt Volcano** from the Sterling Highway after sunset. Photo looks WNW.

In Soldotna, SPHP stopped at Safeway for fried chicken and orange juice. It was late and pitch black when Lupe reached Bottenintnin Lake for the night. (11:33 PM)

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Mako’s Water Taxi

Poot Peak Fact Sheet & Map

Kachemak Bay State Park

Kachemak Bay State Park and Wilderness Brochure & Map

On the Alpine Ridge trail to see the Grewingk Glacier, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (8-31-18)

Sailing the North Pacific Ocean to Grace Ridge, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (8-26-16)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

On the Alpine Ridge Trail to see the Grewingk Glacier, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (8-31-18)

Day 28 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

5:50 AM, Anchor Point – Still dark and windy out, too dark to see the ocean, but Lupe could hear it. A quick step outside confirmed that it wasn’t as windy as it had been yesterday. Better get ready, then get to Mako’s! Lupe and SPHP piled back into the G6 and headed for Homer.

7:30 AM, Homer Spit – Lupe strolled in the door at Mako’s Water Taxi just as they opened. Yesterday it had been so windy that the taxis hadn’t been running, but this morning it was a different story. Not only were the taxis running, but several other passengers already had reservations to take the same trip across Kachemak Bay to the Saddle trailhead Lupe was hoping to get to. The 2 passenger minimum was already met.

Fantastic! SPHP paid the $80.33 round trip fare (taxes and fees included, plus Dingoes ride free!), and Lupe and SPHP were on their way down to the docks looking for the Smokey Bay landing craft. After an extensive search, it turned out that the Smokey Bay had been the very first boat on the L. Doh! Departure was at 8:00 AM sharp, only minutes from now.

Loopster ready to set sail aboard Mako’s **Smokey Bay** landing craft.

*You ready, SPHP? 7:55 AM! We better get aboard.*

Four other passengers plus Skipper Gabe climbed aboard the Smokey Bay in addition to Lupe and SPHP. The rest of them went inside the heated cabin, but it wasn’t that cold out, so Lupe and SPHP stayed up front. Gabe had the Smokey Bay underway almost immediately.

This was still a breezy day, and the seas were a bit rough as the Smokey Bay raced across Kachemak Bay. Occasionally the landing craft came down hard on a wave. Lupe was a bit concerned at times, but if she was going to be a sea-faring Dingo, she knew she had to get used to it. As long as she didn’t get seasick, or go Dingo overboard, it was going to be OK. Meanwhile, SPHP seemed to think this was all great fun!

Crossing **Kachemak Bay** on the way to the Saddle trailhead in Halibut Cove.

*Is this bouncing normal? Please tell me we’re not going to sink!*

Half an hour after leaving the Homer Spit, everyone was disembarking at the Saddle trailhead in Halibut Cove. Lupe was safe and sound on damp ground again, at a beach guarded by a battalion of rotting logs. The Carolina Dog was back in Kachemak Bay State Park for the first time since she’d been to Grace Ridge 2 years ago!

Here we are, back in Kachemak Bay State Park at the **Saddle trailhead** on Halibut Cove!

On the beach at the **Saddle trailhead**.

Skipper Gabe departed in the Smokey Bay. No facilities here, except a steep wooden stairway that led up into the forest. The stairs were the start of the Saddle trail, and everyone headed that way.

**Halibut Cove** from the stairs at the start of the Saddle trail. Photo looks SW.

Beyond the top of the stairs, a log bridge with wide railings came next. After the bridge, the Saddle trail switchbacked 0.4 mile up a steep slope at a comfortable rate. The Saddle trail started leveling out, and Lupe came to a trail junction.

*This is kind of an interesting start to the Saddle trail, isn’t it? I’m liking this!* Looper on the bridge beyond the top of the stairs.

The Saddle trail continued over a pass on its way to the Glacier Lake trail another 0.6 mile away. Everyone else had already disappeared in that direction, but Glacier Lake wasn’t where Lupe was going. The American Dingo was on her way to Alpine Ridge to see the Grewingk Glacier! To get there, she needed to take the Lagoon Trail instead.

At the junction of the Saddle and Lagoon trails.

The Lagoon trail was narrower and more overgrown than the popular Saddle trail, but Lupe had no problem following it. After climbing fairly steeply for 0.3 mile on the Lagoon trail, she came to another intersection, this time with the Alpine Ridge trail, which was what Loop was actually looking for.

A glimpse of **Halibut Cove** from the Lagoon trail. Photo looks SW.

*This Lagoon trail is kind of jungley, isn’t it?*

At the junction of the Lagoon and Alpine Ridge trails.

The Alpine Ridge trail began with a steep set of cut log steps. Beyond the steps, the trail climbed aggressively through thick vegetation. Trees and large bushes hid all views, and tall grasses overhung the trail to such an extent that sometimes SPHP could barely see it. Meanwhile, Loopster traveled through what amounted to a grass tunnel. A great profusion of ferns grew in some places, creating a forgotten, prehistoric feel.

If this jungle had been wet, Lupe would have been absolutely soaked in no time. Perhaps worse, the steep trail would have been extremely slick. Fortunately, the Alpine Ridge trail was merely damp today. Hard-packed dirt provided decent traction, except at the very steepest points.

The trail went on for a while, and Lupe eventually came to a big fallen tree. She leapt up on top of it, then over, and quickly came to a 35 foot long rope hanging down an exceptionally steep slope. Lupe didn’t need the rope, but SPHP found it most helpful. Once beyond the rope, Looper finally began to get glimpses of distant views.

At first the views were always back toward Halibut Cove, or a high point NW of the pass the Saddle trail went over. Eventually, though, a higher part of Alpine Ridge could be seen ahead. Somewhat discouragingly, it was all heavily forested, too.

The jungle continues on the Alpine Ridge trail.

A rare opening with a view on the first part of the Alpine Ridge trail.

A higher part of **Alpine Ridge** appears ahead.

Considerably farther on, the Carolina Dog came to three more ropes in quick succession. These ropes weren’t as long as the first rope had been, but still provided SPHP with essential assistance at super steep spots. Despite the ropes, overall the trail was no longer as steep as earlier on. Loop came to level sections, and even dips, but the trail always resumed its ascent of Alpine Ridge, often gaining elevation in big chunks.

By now, Lupe was getting more frequent views, and was high enough to see Kachemak Bay and the Homer Spit. Sometimes Grewingk Glacier Lake and the Grewingk Creek delta could be seen.

One of the short ropes on a slope that is much steeper than it looks.

**Kachemak Bay** and the **Homer Spit** (Center). **Halibut Cove** is in the foreground. Photo looks WNW from the Alpine Ridge trail.

The **Grewingk Creek delta** is on the R. The Saddle trail runs between the two high points on the L. Photo looks NW.

As Lupe got higher, both the vegetation and geology began to change. Views opened up as trees and bushes faded away. Tundra, blueberries, and crowberries started taking over. Rock outcroppings appeared. At one point, SPHP was almost certain that the top of Grace Ridge, where Lupe had such a great time 2 years ago, was in view.

Dingo on the rocks! Out in the open with the **Grewingk Creek delta** and **Kachemak Bay** in sight. Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.

**Grewingk Creek** (L) and part of **Grewingk Glacier Lake** (R). Photo looks N.

Approaching much more open territory. Photo looks ESE.

Above treeline. **Kachemak Bay** and the **Homer Spit** (R). Part of **Halibut Lagoon** (L). Photo looks W.

Plump, sweet wild blueberries were abundant!

Part of **Halibut Cove** is seen just beyond Lupe. The **Homer Spit** is farther away protruding into **Kachemak Bay**. Photo looks WNW.

SPHP wondered if that wasn’t the top of **Grace Ridge** sticking up beyond the far ridge slightly R of Center? Photo looks SW.

After 2.5 miles on the Alpine Ridge trail, Lupe reached a major high point. Beyond a significant drop, she could see much more of Alpine Ridge ahead. SPHP recognized this view from literature seen online. This was it, the end of the official trail! Lupe had reached the alpine.

Looper at **High Point 2100**, the end of the official Alpine Ridge trail. Part of the **Grewingk Glacier** is in view on the L. Photo looks E.

Mountains and glaciers at the far end of the **Halibut Creek canyon** as seen from the end of the official Alpine Ridge trail. Photo looks SE.

Reaching the end of the official trail, meant the fun part of exploring Alpine Ridge was about to begin! The whole point in coming up Alpine Ridge was to see the Grewingk Glacier. SPHP had high hopes that Lupe would be able to go all the way to the 3,800 foot level where she ought to have an absolutely tremendous view of a huge expanse of the glacier. Maybe Looper would even see part of the massive icefield from which the Grewingk and many other glaciers originate?

However, the 3,800 foot level was still more than 3 miles away. After a short rest at High Point 2100, Lupe and SPHP pressed on. An unofficial trail led E down into the lower region the Carolina Dog had to cross in order to continue farther up Alpine Ridge.

About to set off on the unofficial trail going farther E. The hope was that Lupe could get to the 3,800 foot level on Alpine Ridge, about a mile beyond the high point seen ahead, which is only about 3,500 feet. Photo looks E.

Lupe hadn’t seen anyone since leaving the Saddle trail, but suddenly voices were heard. Two men with heavy packs appeared, one of them dragging an orange plastic sled like a child would use. SPHP asked if he’d been sledding somewhere way up on Alpine Ridge, and he just laughed.

They had found the sled. The men were geologists doing a study on the stability of Alpine Ridge. The guy with the sled explained that in 1967 a portion of Alpine Ridge had collapsed onto the Grewingk Glacier, and proceeded to slide down into Grewingk Glacier Lake creating a 200 foot high tsunami. (Mental note: Don’t camp by the lakeshore.)

Even without doing any geological stability study, that seemed to SPHP like sort of a big clue that maybe Alpine Ridge wasn’t all that stable. At any rate, the geologists had found more evidence of instability, the most dramatic of which was a 40 foot deep crack at a high point much farther up the ridge. They were now heading down to Grewingk Glacier Lake, and then over to the Saddle trailhead to be picked up by Mako later in the day. Maybe Lupe would see them again?

The geologists went on, and so did Lupe. She passed near a mostly dried up tarn on the way to the next big climb.

Near what was left of the tarn. Photo looks NNE.

After passing the tarn, the trail faded away, and Lupe turned N. SPHP thought the Carolina Dog ought to go see the Grewingk Glacier from the N edge of Alpine Ridge before proceeding higher. However, after Loop crossed one minor ridge on the way N, only to see yet another valley with another ridge beyond it, that notion was abandoned for now.

May as well get with it, and start climbing!

After going N over a minor ridge, all Lupe saw was another little valley with another ridge beyond it. Photo looks NNE.

So up Lupe went, higher and higher! This was interesting territory. Steep, especially at first, but all open and rolling. The easiest route up was toward the SE. Though the Grewingk Glacier was completely out of sight, hidden in a deep canyon to the N, Lupe did have some tremendous views. Loop kept going until she reached the 3,500 foot high point she had seen from the end of the official trail.

High Point 3500 turned out to be the location of the big 40 foot crack in Alpine Ridge that the geologists had been talking about.

Making good progress toward **High Point 3500**. Photo looks E.

Looking down on **Grewingk Glacier Lake**. Photo looks NW.

Heading higher. Loopster would ultimately go up to **High Point 3500** (Center) from the R. Photo looks E.

The Grewingk Glacier is hidden deep in the canyon on the L. Photo looks NE.

Looking back. **High Point 2100** where the official trail ends is in shadow beyond Loop. Part of **Grewingk Glacier Lake** is on the R. Photo looks W.

Zoomed in on icebergs in **Grewingk Glacier Lake**. Photo looks NW.

The big crack up at **High Point 3500** can be seen from here. Photo looks E.

Looper next to the crack. Photo looks E.

From High Point 3500, Lupe could see a broad, rolling area still ahead to the SE. This region was not steep at all, an easy trek toward moderately higher hills in the distance. Exploring that area looked like a lot of fun, and Lupe needed to go that way, if she was ever going to get to the 3,800 foot level, as SPHP still hoped. However, first she took a look around.

30 feet NW, a pipe was sticking out of the ground. Upon inspection, a survey marker was on top. Not too surprising, since the geologists had mentioned a marker.

The most dramatic thing Lupe saw from High Point 3500 was off to the N. Lower down, but fairly close by, a hill sloped skyward before ending abruptly at a gargantuan cliff that fell away into the Grewingk Glacier canyon. The view from that broken hill ought to be amazing!

At **High Point 3500**. Ahead is a rolling region that looks like a lot of fun to explore. The rounded hill on the L by the snowbank is **High Point 3647**. Photo looks SE.

This survey marker was 30 feet NW of the **High Point 3500** summit.

Lupe and SPHP set off for the dramatic hill. However, by the time Loop reached the saddle leading to it, SPHP chickened out. The brink of such a formidable precipice might be more terrifying than amazing. Going to it suddenly seemed unnecessary. A bit lower and farther E was a big fairly level area where Lupe ought to be able to see the Grewingk Glacier just fine.

Ever since Lupe had started her climb to High Point 3500, a steady 10 mph breeze out of the W had been bringing an endless procession of clouds over Alpine Ridge. At times High Point 3500 had been in fog. As Lupe headed down to the area E of the dramatic broken hill, fog came rolling in again. For a short while, Loop actually had a dim view of the toe of the Grewingk Glacier down in the canyon, but it soon vanished.

On the way down from **High Point 3500** to the dramatic hill (L). Photo looks NNE.

The dimly perceived **toe of the Grewingk Glacier** is far below Lupe. Dramatic hill on the L. Photo looks N.

**Toe of the Grewingk Glacier** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

The dramatic hill (L) as fog fills the Grewingk Glacier canyon (R). Photo looks WNW.

SPHP expected the clouds to pass quickly on by to reveal the glacier again, so Lupe simply waited. Blue sky did reappear overhead, but the fog down in the canyon seemed trapped down there. When the situation persisted, SPHP began to realize that maybe Lupe had climbed too high? If Loopster was ever going to get a decent look at the Grewingk Glacier, she might have to lose elevation!

That was a frustrating thought. What to do? Still more than a mile away, Lupe could see High Point 3800 from here, the place SPHP had been thinking of as her ultimate destination.

**High Point 3800** is far beyond Lupe. **High Point 3647** is on the R. Photo looks E.

*I can sort of see the glacier now, SPHP!*

Blue skies over **High Point 3500**. Meanwhile, the Grewingk Glacier canyon remains full of fog. Photo looks SW.

Uncertain what to do next, Lupe and SPHP returned to High Point 3500. Might as well enjoy the views up here rather than stare into fog.

Loop returns to **High Point 3500**. Photo looks W.

The crack at **High Point 3500**. Photo looks WNW.

**Grewingk Glacier Lake** from **High Point 3500**. Lupe is standing by the pipe with the survey marker. Photo looks NW.

**High Point 2100** where the official trail ends is in front of **Halibut Cove** beyond Lupe. Photo looks WNW back down **Alpine Ridge**.

Two good reasons existed not to go any farther. Clouds might settle in at any moment ruining the views, and time was becoming an issue. Even so, it was hard to turn back. So hard that Lupe didn’t! Instead, the American Dingo headed SE from High Point 3500, ultimately reaching the 3600 foot level.

A glimpse into the **Halibut Creek canyon**. Photo looks SE.

Roaming high on **Alpine Ridge**. Photo looks ESE.

From the 3600 foot level, Lupe could see glaciers among the mountains at the upper end of Halibut Creek canyon.

Upper end of **Halibut Creek canyon**. Photo looks SE.

Looper at 3,600 feet on **Alpine Ridge**. At least she’s got a glacier view, even if it isn’t the Grewingk Glacier. Photo looks SE.

Glaciers at the upper end of Halibut Creek canyon with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SE.

Oh, for a clearer day, and a few hours more! High Point 3800 was still a mile away. Lupe could see it off to the E. The terrain between here and there looked so easy and enticing to explore! Sadly, though, this was it. Clouds kept sailing by only slightly overhead, threatening to envelop this upper portion of Alpine Ridge in fog. Even if the skies had been clear, Lupe needed to be back at the Saddle trailhead by 6:30 PM for pickup by Mako’s, and time was running out.

For a few moments, Lupe and SPHP gazed wistfully at High Point 3800, the long sought goal beyond attainment. Then, with great reluctance, the Carolina Dog turned and headed back toward High Point 3500.

Loop still near the 3600 foot level on **Alpine Ridge**. **High Point 3800** is in the distance beyond her. **High Point 3647** is on the L. Photo looks E.

**Halibut Creek canyon** and part of **Halibut Lagoon** are on the L. **Kachemak Bay** is in the distance. **High Point 3500** is on the R. Photo looks back to the WNW.

Similar view with help from the telephoto lens.

On the way back to **High Point 3500** (L).

Lupe went past High Point 3500 again, but did not return to its summit. Instead, she descended the long, rolling, progressively steeper slope to the area where she had abandoned her earlier attempt to head N to see the Grewingk Glacier. Staying as far E as possible along the base of the higher ground, Lupe again turned N traveling through the little valley she had seen earlier.

Climbing over the next minor ridge, Looper finally came to her fabulous view of the Grewingk Glacier.

*Hah! We should have stuck with it, and come here to begin with, SPHP. This is a much better view of the **Grewingk Glacier** than we had from higher up!*

For the next little while, Lupe and SPHP explored W along the S rim of the Grewingk Glacier canyon, going from one viewpoint to the next. The views actually improved somewhat as Loop got a little farther from the glacier. She also could see more of Grewingk Glacier Lake.

Coming down here had been the right thing to do! As low as the clouds were now, if Lupe had gone on to High Point 3800, she wouldn’t have seen much of anything but fog. Although it would have been nice to have had more sun, at least down here, the Carolina Dog did get to enjoy some pretty spectacular views of the Grewingk Glacier. After all, she was still 1,500 to 2,000 feet above it.

**Grewingk Glacier Lake** and the creek delta beyond it. Photo looks NNW.

At another vantage point overlooking the **Grewingk Glacier**. Photo looks ENE.

At the next high point along the rim seen in the previous photo. Looking ENE.

S rim of the canyon (L) and **Grewingk Glacier Lake** (R). Photo looks NW.

When Lupe got far enough W, she could see not only a long stretch of the Grewingk Glacier, but even the toe where it reached Grewingk Glacier Lake. The far E end of the glacier disappeared up into the clouds.

Loop with a fantastic view of the **Grewingk Glacier** all the way down to where the toe reaches the lake. Photo looks ENE.

The E end of the **Grewingk Glacier** (R) disappeared up into the clouds!

**Toe of the Grewingk Glacier** with help from the telephoto lens.

Exploring from high point to high point along the S rim of the canyon was addictive. With slightly different perspectives from each spot, the Grewingk Glacier views were fantastic! At the last high point, Lupe could see nearly all of Grewingk Glacier Lake, and a number of icebergs calved off the glacier.

Another look toward the E end of the glacier. This time with a bit more help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe’s best view yet of **Grewingk Glacier Lake**. Photo looks NW.

Final look at the **Grewingk Glacier** from **Alpine Ridge**.

The terrain along the S rim eventually started dropping more steeply to the W, putting an end to the glacier views as Lupe was forced detour a little away from the edge. While Lupe took a break sitting on the tundra, SPHP finally thought to check the camera for the time.

What!? 7:08 PM! Lupe had already missed her scheduled 6:30 PM pickup by Mako’s water taxi at the Saddle trailhead nearly 40 minutes ago! SPHP was shocked. Yeah, Loopster had been up on Alpine Ridge quite a while, and time does fly when you’re having fun, but it didn’t seem like it could possibly be that late.

Unaware of the sudden time crisis, Lupe sits calmly half-dozing on the tundra.

No wait. It wasn’t 7:08 PM at all. SPHP was forgetting about the time zone differential. Whew! 5:08 PM. That’s what it was! Looper still had an hour and 22 minutes to get back to the Saddle trailhead.

Look alive, Looper! Let’s hit it! Suddenly we’re in one helluva rush!

Lupe was off like a shot, thrilled that apparently something exciting was about to take place. Of course, she wasn’t the problem. SPHP was. Lupe could get to the trailhead easily enough with time to spare. However, as SPHP did the mental calculations, it was clear that there was no way SPHP could.

Loopster was still more than a mile from the end of the official Alpine Ridge trail, which was 2.5 miles long. Then came another 0.3 mile on the Lagoon Trail, plus 0.4 mile on the Saddle trail. So 4.2+ miles to go while losing 2,500 feet of elevation. Not going to happen. Might be close, though. If Mako’s ran just a bit late, maybe!

1 hour and 22 minutes to get back to the Saddle trailhead from here! **High Point 2100** where the official Alpine Ridge trail ends (begins on the way back) is in the distance straight out from Lupe’s head. Photo looks W.

*Hey! I’ll race you back, SPHP! Whad’ya say? Go ahead, I’ll give you a head start! ….. Oh, you’re just too funny, aren’t you Loop? Mangy Dingo!*

So the race was on! No more stopping for views, blueberries, or even to catch breath, since it was nearly all downhill. Back to the trail, into the jungle, down the ropes, over the fallen tree, on and on it went. Once in a while, a moment taken to check the time. Oh, it was going to be close! Late, but not by much.

As the end drew near, SPHP’s confidence began to soar. Almost there!

Suddenly, the drone of an engine approaching. Mako’s was on the way! Oh, no! They were early! After a few minutes, the engine went silent. Mako’s must already be at the trailhead. Surely, they would wait a little?

6:30 PM – As Loop and SPHP raced down the switchbacks, two young women coming up the Saddle trail looked nervous. They wanted to know if Lupe had seen any bears? Nope, not a one. Good luck, and have fun! Bye! That was just about SPHP’s entire helpful response. Down, down, down!

At 6:33 PM, the engine roared back to life. At 6:36 PM, Lupe arrived back at the Saddle trailhead. A water taxi was purring away, already getting close to Kachemak Bay beyond Halibut Cove. Seriously? Mako’s had cut Lupe a whole 3 minutes of slack before departing?

Oh, well. Late is late. Not their fault. No doubt Mako’s would return sooner or later. Late customers must happen a lot in their line of work. No doubt a constant aggravation for them. However, it would be real nice if they returned sometime today. SPHP hadn’t come equipped to spend the night.

Nothing to do, but wait. Unfortunately, the Saddle trailhead didn’t look anything at all like it did this morning. The tide had come in. The beach and its battalion of rotting logs was inundated! Only rocks to sit on. Lupe and SPHP got as comfortable as possible. After the big race to get off Alpine Ridge, complete inaction. Gorgeous here, though. Fun just watching the blue waves of Halibut Cove ripple in.

Alaska! So freakin’ awesome!

*So, what happened here, SPHP? Did Mako’s take the beach with them? Where is it?* At the transformed Saddle trailhead on **Halibut Cove**.

Waiting at **Halibut Cove**. Photo looks SSW.

Nearly an hour went by. Lupe heard it first – an engine. Skipper Gabe and the Smokey Bay! They were coming back!

The Smokey Bay water taxi returns to **Halibut Cove**!

When the Smokey Bay arrived, SPHP apologized to Gabe for being late, forcing him to come back for Lupe.

Huh? Lupe’s fine. 6:30 PM right now.

What? It finally sank in. The camera was practically brand new, bought only days ago in Anchorage to replace the one that died in the rain at Hope Point. SPHP had set the time on it incorrectly. The camera was an hour off. Lupe had made it back to the trailhead an hour early! It had only been 4:08 PM when the panic began, not 5:08 PM.

Well, shucks. Could have spent nearly another hour up on Alpine Ridge. All’s well that ends well, though. At least Lupe wasn’t going to have to spend the night at the Saddle trailhead.

Lupe was the first one aboard the Smokey Bay, but others were coming. Within minutes, the two geologists appeared with all their gear. The two young women hadn’t been devoured by bears, and were already back from a quick hike to see Grewingk Glacier Lake. Gabe said the reason they’d been nervous was that they’d had to wait for a black bear to leave the Saddle trailhead before he could drop them off!

A sea-faring Dingo back aboard the Smokey Bay in **Halibut Cove** awaiting a return voyage to the Homer Spit.

On the way back to the Homer Spit, Lupe and SPHP sat in the cab of the Smokey Bay with everyone else. The conversation was lighthearted and fun. Almost too soon, the American Dingo was back at the spit, and everyone was saying good-bye and going their separate ways.

Lupe never did get to High Point 3800, but she did see the Grewingk Glacier from Alpine Ridge, having explored far beyond the minimum necessary to do so. No complaints. Alpine Ridge had been an incredible, memorable day in the magnificent Alaskan wilderness of Kachemak Bay State Park.