The thin yellow-orange crescent of the dying moon hung low in the eastern sky. Overhead, the Milky Way stretched across the dark heavens. Birds were already singing, though. Dawn was coming. A faint light was already discernable on the horizon. In the darkness, Lupe sniffed around the huge vacant parking lot of the scenic overlook on the S side of Hwy 20 E of Harrison, Nebraska.
Lupe and SPHP weren’t sleepy, but there wasn’t any sense in leaving before it was light out. Lupe had come to see what was here. It would be light out soon enough. Back in the G6 for another restless hour. SPHP finally dozed a bit and woke up to find Lupe wide awake, and the sun about to rise.
Within a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP were heading E on Hwy 20 toward Crawford, Nebraska. It was a gorgeous morning for a drive. Fort Robson State Park was still closed when Lupe passed through. Nearing Crawford, Lupe stopped briefly at a golf course with a great view of Saddle Rock, one of the Red Cloud Buttes.
Four or five miles N of Crawford, SPHP left Hwy 2/71 turning left on Toadstool Road. The gravel road was in fairly decent shape. It went W a couple miles before following the Burlington Northern railroad NW. Lupe had a blast riding with her head out the window in the wind. She barked with great vigor and enthusiasm at mostly unimpressed cows and horses along the way.
SPHP spotted an interesting mountain a few miles to the W. It looked like a great peakbagging goal for Lupe on a future trip. SPHP had no idea what mountain it was. A check of the maps later on revealed it is called Roundtop (4,540 ft.).
After following the railroad for 10 or 11 miles, Lupe reached a turn to the W for Toadstool Geologic Park. It was a little over a mile to the campground. Lupe was soon there. Not another soul was in sight, which was just perfect! Lupe and SPHP got out to take a look around.
Toadstool Geologic Park has 6 campsites with covered picnic tables, fire rings, grills, and plenty of flat grassy land to pitch a tent on. There was a restroom, too, but that was it for amenities. There were no trees to provide shade, and no water or electricity. On the bright side, this time of year there weren’t any fees, either. The flat, exposed campground was next to stark, but beautiful badlands territory just to the W.
Before checking out the badlands on the Fossil Loop Trail, Lupe went to take a look at the campground’s sod house. A sign said the sod house had been constructed in 1984 as an example of the homes pioneers lived in on the prairie. Lupe went inside, but it didn’t take her long to check out the only amenities, which consisted of four walls and a roof. Life used to be extremely hard on the prairie!
Next, Lupe and SPHP went to check out the Fossil Loop Trail. The mile long trail starts on the W side of the campground. There was a box full of pamphlets providing a self-guided tour. Numbered posts along the trail correspond to numbered sections in the pamphlet, so it was a good idea to take one along. According to the pamphlet:
Toadstool Geologic Park is a key link in understanding the earth’s history from 38 to 24 million years ago. Geologists consider it the “type section for the White River Group,” meaning that all other similar-aged deposits in North America are compared to the geologic standard designated at Toadstool. It is also the standard for animal fossils of that age – the Eocene and Oligocene epochs about 30 million years ago.
While SPHP took the Fossil Loop Trail self-guided tour, Lupe raced around sniffing and exploring the badlands. There wasn’t much vegetation and she didn’t encounter any cactus, which made Lupe very happy. She did agree to take a little time out from her explorations of the strange rock formations to add some Carolina Dog charm to a number of photos.
A tiny trickling stream wound through part of the area the Fossil Loop Trail went through. During periods of significant rain or melting snow, it was clear the stream would flash flood, making the trail at first impassable and later a complete muddy mess, but it was fine while Lupe was here.
About halfway around the loop, there was an intersection with a Bison Trail. A sign said the Bison Trail was 3 miles long. There was no mention of the Bison Trail in the pamphlet, or at any of the informational displays back at the campground.
Shortly after passing the Bison Trail, the Fossil Loop Trail climbed out of the shallow valley up onto some of the badlands formations. The trail stayed up here the rest of the way. A little bit of easy scrambling was required, and the trail went close to the edge of some cliffs, but this section of the Fossil Loop Trail had some of the most interesting rock formations.
The Fossil Loop Trail was fun, but didn’t take very long to complete. Upon returning to the campground, Lupe and SPHP had a bit to eat. The solitude was broken when another vehicle entered the park. It turned out that a couple from northern Italy, Lorenzo and Gabriella, had come to hike the Bison Trail! When they couldn’t find any information about it, they came over to meet Lupe and talk to SPHP.
Lorenzo and Gabriella said the Bison Trail leads to a boneyard where 700 hundred bison had died! They wondered where the trail was. SPHP told them to just take the Fossil Loop Trail. Halfway along it they would find the intersection with the Bison Trail. After chatting pleasantly for a few more minutes, off they went.
SPHP was impressed that Lorenzo and Gabriella had travelled so far to see Toadstool Geological Park, but it was time for Lupe to move on. Except for a joy ride N barking at cows and horses, Lupe’s mini-Dingo Vacation in scenic western Nebraska was coming to an end. Minus the cactus on the hike with new friend Jobe Wymore, it had all been great fun!
Maybe Lupe will return some day to camp out at Toadstool Geological Park. Then she can explore the Bison Trail, climb Roundtop, and visit Fort Robson State Park. A stretch of pleasant dry weather during spring or fall would be the best time to be here. In badlands like these, winters are too cold and the summers baking hot!
Note: After Lupe returned home, a little online research revealed that the Bison Trail at Toadstool Geological Park probably goes to the Hudson-Meng Education & Research Center. Approximately 120-125 (not 700) bison died at this site around 10,000 years ago.
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