Days 10 & 11 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Colorado & New Mexico!
6-16-23, 3:50 PM, USFS Road No. 380 a mile NW of Lake De Nolda – Dang! Almost to where this steep mountainside road was going to top out, big snowbanks started appearing on it. Fortunately they only covered half of the road, so the RAV4 could squeak past them. Only one more to go, when suddenly a green ATV appeared coming the opposite direction.
SPHP pulled the RAV4 over to hug the mountain so the ATV could get by. Instead, the driver stopped.
From South Dakota, huh? Where are you and your dog going, anyway?
Crater Lake trailhead. Believe it’s only another mile or two.
You’ll never get there! Road’s completely blocked by a huge snowbank 0.25 mile ahead. There’s a decent place to turn around, though.
Thanks for the beta, sir! Appreciate it.
The turnaround point turned out to be an abandoned side road on the L, fortunately situated just before the massive, road-blocking snowbank. Instead of turning around, SPHP merely pulled in and parked.
Lupe leapt out as soon as SPHP opened the door. Looking WSW along the side road, 3 snowy peaks were in sight only 2 or 3 miles away.
Wow, really gorgeous! Which one is Summit Peak (13,300 ft.), SPHP?
Not entirely certain, Loopster. Probably the middle one. It’s the highest. Let me check the map, just to be sure.
The longer SPHP compared the map against the view, the less it seemed possible that middle peak could actually be Summit Peak.
Huh! I was wrong, Loop. Got it now. Long Trek Mountain (12,866 ft.) is on the R, the middle peak is actually Montezuma Peak (13,150 ft.), and that big ridge on the L is HP12312 way out along Long Trek’s SE ridge.
Sweet! And so whatever happened to Summit Peak, SPHP? You know, our next main objective?
Either we can’t see it from here, Loop, or it’s that mountain poking up over beyond the end of HP12312. That would be about the right spot for it.
Really? Way over there, SPHP? But look at all the snow!
Yeah, I know, Looper. We may not get there without doing some winter camping, and I’m not up for that.
So what are we going to do, SPHP?
We can call it and leave now, Loopster, or stick around and do what we can. Who knows? Maybe it’s possible as a day hike. Thought it would be, but that was before I realized how much snow is still in the San Juans.
I like it here, SPHP. Let’s stay!
Me, too, Loop. But I’m going to think about it. No sense in biting off more than we can chew.
SPHP pondered the maps. Really no need to go all the way to the Crater Lake trailhead. This spot appeared to provide decent access to the same region. Hate to leave without getting anything at all accomplished, and although Summit Peak was a long snowy march away, Montezuma Peak and Long Trek Mountain weren’t all that far.
Half an hour after deciding to stay in order to let the American Dingo have a go at it tomorrow, dark clouds came sailing in from out of the SW. Snowed impressively for the next half hour. Just a squall. Blue sky reappeared.
6-17-23, 8:18 AM, 43ºF – Four days before the summer solstice, and last night had been the coldest one yet on this Dingo Vacation. Got down to what, the upper 20’s ºF? Maybe. Even though the sun had already been rapidly warming things up for a while, there was still frost on the RAV4. Of course, this side road off USFS Road No. 380 was at 11,450 feet.
SPHP had slept poorly, not only due to the cold, but also because some rodent had spent the wee hours scurrying and gnawing away wherever it pleased in the RAV4’s undercarriage. Didn’t quit until SPHP finally opened and repeatedly slammed one of the doors.
Meanwhile, a certain Carolina Dog had slept like a baby. Should have brought a Carolina Cat! This morning, Lupe spotted the likely gnawing culprit, a mouse in the bushes 15 feet from the RAV4. After she dashed in and out half a dozen times trying to catch it, SPHP saw the mouse take refuge beneath the RAV4 again.
Simply marvelous! Thanks so much, Loop!
You’re certainly welcome! For what, SPHP?
The mouse just went back under the RAV4. I saw it.
Oops! Sorry, SPHP!
Never mind. Not important. I’m just grumpy. Pack’s ready. If we’re to have any shot at all at Summit Peak, we’d better get going, Looper.
What are the magic words, SPHP?
Oh, of course. Onward! Puppy, ho!
The sky was clear as a bell as Lupe set out heading W along the side road straight into a chilly 15 mph wind. Nevertheless, the blue sky, crisp air, and dazzling snow white mountains soon had spirits soaring. After all, the snowfields Lupe encountered at Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.) recently hadn’t been much of a problem. Maybe the Carolina Dog really would get to Summit Peak today?
The road took Lupe on a gradual descent into the Prospect Creek valley. Bordered by forest, the scenic valley was a mix of meadow, snowbanks, and scattered bushes. Entire hillsides were covered with plants sporting huge, bright green leaves. As evidenced by last year’s crop laying among them, these robust plants would eventually grow stalks several feet tall.
Merely a little over 2 miles away as the crow flies, Lone Trek Mountain was the American Dingo’s minimum objective of the day. Making great progress going downhill on the road, it hardly seemed possible that Lupe wouldn’t get at least that far with ease.
Hopes rose rapidly for both Montezuma Peak and Summit Peak, too. Yeah, baby, Lupe going to get there!
After 0.67 mile, Lupe reached Prospect Creek. Now washed out, the road clearly used to cross it.
The territory farther W along the N side of the creek looked like lovely, easy ground, but was sopping wet. Backtracking higher to drier terrain, Lupe abandoned the road. Continuing W, even up here she ran into plenty of soggy spots.
Despite wet paws, progress remained excellent. Lupe quickly reached a fork in the valley where a major tributary of Prospect Creek came down from the NW. A large snowbank provided a convenient bridge over this stream.
A line of trees stood up on the opposite bank. After crossing the bridge and getting past these trees, a flat clearing was ahead. Hardly any snow here, but beyond a stand of half dead forest at the far end, a slope with a significant amount of snow on it was visible through the trees.
Traveling W across the clearing, a mountain was in view off to the NW.
That’s a fine looking mountain, SPHP! Not much snow on it, either. We ought to be able to climb that one with ease.
Unfortunately, if we want to maintain any possibility of getting to Summit Peak, that’s the wrong way, Loopster. Have to agree with you, though. Does look eminently climbable. Must be Peak 12550 according to the map.
After passing through the half dead forest, the first snow climb began. Steepish, but not that bad. Even SPHP was able to march right on up. Above the snow, the terrain leveled out again. Continuing WNW, Lupe came to a series of broad, flat benches separated by steeper snow climbs.
6-17-23, 9:24 AM – The American Dingo had now reached the toe of a vast, more gently sloping region rising toward Long Trek Mountain. Looking ESE back down the Prospect Creek valley, Lookout Mountain (12,448 ft.), Sheepshead (12,240 ft.), and Prospect Mountain (12,245 ft.) were in sight.
Ahead to the W, long lines of evergreens separated a patchwork of large meadows, substantial portions of which were buried under snowfields. Clad in snow, Long Trek Mountain was now only 1.25 miles WSW.
As Lupe pushed on, roaming the grasslands when possible, and crossing snowfields when necessary, the sky gave increasing cause for alarm.
Not a cloud in the sky when we set out, SPHP. Now, not a sky in the cloud!
Unconventionally put, Sweet Puppy, but I get your drift. Not getting any warmer, either. Feels like it could snow!
Avoiding a wide, shallow valley to the S, Lupe stayed on higher ground, still wandering W or WNW. As she continued gaining elevation, SPHP kept an eye on the weather. Meanwhile, the Carolina Dog was entering a world of snow. Fewer, shorter trees, less and less snow-free ground.
This is awesome, SPHP! Makes one feel like a real explorer, doesn’t it?
For sure! Please keep a nose out for the Continental Divide Trail. I may not see it amid all this snow. It’s somewhere between us and that highest ridge to the W.
Bare ground grew scarce. The trek became a long, gentle snow trudge higher. Driven by the wind, intermittent waves of snow granules began pelting the Carolina Dog. A small dry spot next to an old, 4 foot high stunted tree provided a semi-sheltered spot to take a short break.
No sign of the CDT yet, SPHP.
I know. Can’t be much farther W, but I doubt we’ll see it. Might not do us any good, anyway, with all this snow, even if we do. Maybe we should just head SW more directly toward Long Trek Mountain?
The wind, which had died down to a considerable degree earlier, was now picking up again. A steadier, general snowfall began. SPHP shared some eagerly accepted beef jerky with Lupe, then, during a lull in the storm, the trek continued, now heading SW.
Started snowing again. Fog swept in, obliterating Long Trek Mountain. Lupe went on, still occasionally coming to stretches of bare ground. The terrain was easy, sloping only gradually up to the W.
After crossing a long stretch of snow, another short break was taken next to another lone, stunted tree. Visibility was down to 150 feet.
I dare say our chances of getting to Summit Peak (13,300 ft.) suddenly aren’t looking all that good, SPHP.
Nope. I’ve pretty much given up on it, Looper. We’ll be lucky to get to Long Trek Mountain the way things are going.
Do you think we’ve crossed the CDT yet, SPHP?
No. We’ve been paralleling it.
In snow and wind, Lupe pressed on through the storm, now heading NW to avoid losing elevation. Before long – Lo and behold! A cairn marking the course of the CDT appeared in the gloom at the edge of a snow-free region only a short distance ahead.
Huh! Well, how about that, Loopster? Guess we can follow the CDT at least a little way, after all.
However, turning SW again, Lupe got only a few hundred feet along the CDT before worsening conditions forced SPHP to call a halt. Shelter was taken by another gnarled tree the size of a bush.
6-17-23, 10:45 AM, Continental Divide Trail – The W wind blew 30 mph, and it was snowing hard as Lupe sought refuge. Must be getting close to freezing, because the snow was starting to stick.
Holy, moly, Looper! Get on my lap, so we can keep each other warm. We’ll wait it out right here.
SPHP wrapped an old red sweater around Lupe, tying the arms beneath her neck. Before curling up on SPHP’s lap, she looked like Super Dingo, her red cape flapping wildly in the gale. SPHP was wearing every other layer available – gloves, jackets, stocking cap, hood. Huddled together by the protective bush, the situation seemed incredible.
Calmly, Lupe watched in amazement as the ground turned white. Snow and fog swept by, driven by the wind. It was an absolute blizzard! At times visibility was practically zero, at other times, the fog opened up, and an Arctic vista would appear. Snow was flying everywhere. Views came and went, suddenly appearing then vanishing like ghosts.
Incredibly, little birds were flitting around out in the storm. Generally unseen, except momentarily, their cries sounded like “It’s a snowstorm! It’s a snowstorm!” A more ominous sound came from the NW.
Thunder, SPHP!
Stay with me, Loop. Don’t try to run away from it! You’ll get lost!
Time passed. The blizzard raged on. Still on SPHP’s lap, Lupe enjoyed Taste of the Wild and plenty of beef jerky. SPHP munched on trail mix.
So glad I brought all this sunscreen along, Loop. Been a real lifesaver!
You’re a riot, SPHP! How’s the beef jerky supply holding out?
Fine. Want another piece, Loop?
I’m thinking of a number between 1 and 100, SPHP.
Ha! Forget it. I’ll give you one. You’d make yourself sick, if I let you.
6-17-23, 11:55 AM, 31ºF, Continental Divide Trail – The whole world was white or gray. Still foggy in some directions, Long Trek Mountain hadn’t reappeared, but the Carolina Dog could see a long way in others, and it had finally stopped snowing. The sky kept brightening and darkening. The wind now came only in great gusts with periods of calm between.
During a lull, Lupe got up and rolled in the new snow.
Really, Loop? You’re that warm? Here I thought I was keeping you from freezing to death.
Are we going to Lone Trek Mountain, or not, SPHP?
No. What’s the point in it, Loop, while it’s still lost in the clouds? Actually, I feel sleepy after eating all that trail mix. May take a nap. Depending on what happens, we might go on to Long Trek Mountain afterwards.
If you can’t beat ’em, join ’em! SPHP laid down next to the tree bush. Lupe decided she might as well snuggle up, too. Huddled together in the occasional flurries, wind, and fog of the lingering storm, it was off to Dingo dreamland …
In the fog, a low, threatening growl.
What is it, Loop? What’s out there?
Shhh! Something’s coming, SPHP. It’s almost here!
The American Dingo suddenly spang to her paws, barking furiously, as a figure appeared amid the gloom.
Poor Shannon, “Footsie” her CDT name, just about had a heart attack.
SPHP apologized. Footsie bore no grudge. In fact, she was more than willing to join the huddle by the tree. She hadn’t seen anyone in more than 2 days before Lupe’s outrageously dramatic appearance, and felt like talking. While Footsie sat there stroking Lupe and sharing in the beef jerky, SPHP encouraged her to share her story.
Footsie was from Michigan, and had become a fan of long trails after completing the Superior Trail along the N shore of Lake Superior in Minnesota. Last year she’d done the Pacific Crest Trail, where she’d met her current boyfriend. He had to work until late July, but would be joining her on the CDT then, or they’d take on the Appalachian Trail, hiking S from the N end.
Footsie’s journey N on the the CDT from the Mexico border began back on April 25th. Learning that Lupe had been to Mount Taylor along the CDT in northern New Mexico, Footsie was enthusiastic. Mount Taylor was where the CDT really started getting good!
Footsie chatted about all kinds of trail-related stuff – how she kept in touch with her mother every evening (a Garmin unit), how she financed her activities (work), how she kept herself supplied (hitchhiking), places she’d been to, and other trails she wanted to do.
It was all very interesting. Meanwhile, the weather was improving. The wind kept blowing, but the fog was once again lifting in some directions, revealing big, ever-changing views. Patches of blue sky appeared, and it warmed up a bit. By the time Footsie ended her tale, all the new snow had melted.
Having done 7 miles earlier, Footsie hoped to go another 5 before calling it a day. That would put her within a mere 15 miles of Wolf Creek Pass tomorrow, where she could hitch a ride into Pagosa Springs for supplies. Before departing, Footsie was happy to pose with Lupe in front of Long Trek Mountain, which was back in view again.
6-17-23, 2:11 PM, Continental Divide Trail – Conditions were worsening again as Footsie departed, heading N along the CDT. Another dark gray cloud was coming over Long Trek Mountain from out of the W, and the wind was picking up. Yet, if Footsie could manage, Lupe could, too. However, the American Dingo was headed in the opposite direction.
Didn’t take long to reach the end of the snow-free ground. Long Trek Mountain’s summit was hidden in fog again, as Lupe began climbing SSW along a giant snowfield on the E flank of the mountain. Another dark figure appeared up on Long Trek Mountain’s SE ridge. Someone else was heading this way!
20 minutes after Footsie went on her way, Lupe met Svie, who knew her. Convinced that Footsie was at least several days behind him by now, Svie was stunned to learn that she was actually ahead. Svie chatted amiably with SPHP for 10 minutes. He had done the Appalachian Trail, and was shocked by how much more challenging the CDT was.
Speaking of which, the weather was still deteriorating. Another mini-blizzard struck as Svie continued N. Heading SSE, Lupe aimed for Long Trek Mountain’s SE ridge, where Svie had just been.
The mini-blizzard was still raging when Lupe reached a cairn on bare ground on the SE ridge. With no protection at all here, the Carolina Dog curled up on SPHP’s lap next to the trail. Frequent loud thunder was coming from a short distance N, so SPHP didn’t dare let her climb the mountain.
Thunder began coming from the S, too, but after 20 minutes, it was all well to the E. No longer snowing as hard, either. With only 500 feet of elevation gain separating the CDT from the summit, Lupe started up.
Long Trek Mountain’s SE ridge was a rounded, moderately steep ramp. Hardly any snow on it. Halfway up, Lupe came to a number of big rock formations, but they were all easily avoided.
6-17-23, 3:21 PM, 34ºF, Long Trek Mountain (12,866 ft.) – Exposed to the full force of a 25 mph W wind, Lupe made it to the summit cairn. Sadly, not a thing to see up here in the fog.
Get up on the cairn, Loop! I’ll shake your paw while you’re standing on it.
The wind is cold, SPHP.
Yeah, I know. Just get up there for a moment. I want to congratulate you on climbing Long Trek Mountain on such a wild day, then we’ll retreat a bit to where the wind isn’t so bad.
Retreating 25 feet back to the SE, more beef jerky was the Dingo-favored celebratory item of choice.
Well, too bad about Summit Peak, but at least we got to one mountain, Loopster. Funny thing is, even though we’ve only gone 3.25 miles to get here, sure seems like Long Trek Mountain has lived up to its name.
We won’t be forgetting Long Trek Mountain anytime soon will we, SPHP? Wish we could have hit Montezuma Peak and Summit Peak, too. Maybe we can return some day?
Worth considering, Looper. I’ll keep them on your list of possibilities. Perhaps for later in the season, though. Supposed to be summer, but it’s still winter up here!
Sitting there in the frigid fog and wind, it was tempting to simply call it good and head back. After all, Lupe had made it to the summit. No point in lingering under present circumstances, was there? Yet neither human nor Dingo stirred.
Maybe it was just inertia? Whatever the reason for staying, SPHP knew immediately it had been the right decision as soon as a small patch of blue sky appeared. Took a while, but the clouds lifted, taking the fog with them. Lupe could see! The persistent W wind blew harder than ever as big clouds streamed by, but blue sky continued to fan out in all directions.
Montezuma Peak (13,150 ft.) and Summit Peak (13,300 ft.) appeared in all their fabulous snow-clad glory! Gazing SE, there was a mountain SPHP had been hoping to see.
Loop! There’s Conejos Peak (13,172 ft.), where we were 2 days ago!
Clouds hid Crater Lake deep in a valley to the W, but looking NW, Lupe could see part of that same valley.
Peak 12550 and Peak 12498 were in sight only 1.5 miles NNE. Although Lupe had just come from the NE, the views in this direction were most surprising. The terrain wasn’t nearly as snowy as it had seemed. On the horizon, Bennett Peak (13,203 ft.) looked like merely a big hill.
No doubt about it, though. The view to the S was the most magnificent of all. Montezuma Peak and Summit Peak kept drawing SPHP’s eye like a magnet.
Montezuma Peak isn’t that far, SPHP. Want to go for it? We could do it!
Tempting! Snowy, but the terrain leading to Montezuma Peak appeared to be otherwise obstacle free. Hmm… The snow hadn’t been difficult to deal with, it just made everything more awesome!
I’d love to, Loopster, but it’s not a warm day, and it’s already getting late in the afternoon. I know you could get there, but it would take me too long. We wouldn’t get back until well after dark.
This is our chance! We’re here now, SPHP!
Usually a great argument, Loop, but Summit Peak was our main objective, and we didn’t even get close. So maybe we really will be back, and can climb both then. Heck, maybe we could even bring your tiny house?
Oh, that would be super! Promise, SPHP?
The future is always uncertain, Looper, but I promise to keep these peaks on your list of possibilities. We’ve returned to climb many others after having seen them on earlier Dingo Vacations before.
Whether this truly satisfied the Carolina Dog is debatable. Long Trek Mountain had turned out to be a big success, and a very memorable day, yet Lupe still gazed somewhat wistfully at Montezuma Peak.
She wasn’t alone.
6-17-23, 4:25 PM, Long Trek Mountain (12,866 ft.) – For the last time, the Carolina Dog stood atop the summit cairn, blue sky now beyond. Montezuma wasn’t going to happen, at least, not today. Lupe’s summit hour was over, and who knew if she would ever really be back? Instead of leaving right away, SPHP let her linger, experiencing all the glory of Long Trek Mountain a while longer.
Somewhere miles away, Footsie and Svie were heading N, continuing their separate epic journeys along the Continental Divide Trail. They would never be back, but it had been fun meeting them, sharing a small part of a crazy early summer day.
Someday we’ll be over on Summit Peak looking back this way, won’t we, SPHP? And we can remember being here, and Footsie and Svie, too.
Hope so, Loop, but relish the moment. All we ever have is today.
I always do, SPHP. Carolina Dogs are good at that.
I know. Love you, Loopster. You’re the best! But just like Footsie and Svie, it’s time for our own epic journey to continue as well.
I know what you’re saying, SPHP.
Yup. Together always! Onward! Puppy, ho!
Bathed in sunshine, Lupe left Long Trek Mountain, heading back down the SE ridge, HP12312 at the far end, and new friend Conejos Peak from only 2 days ago in the distance.
Once back to the Continental Divide Trail, Lupe turned N. For a little while now, she would get to follow Footsie and Svie’s footsteps where they’d hiked this very day, not so long ago, in snow and wind along the beautiful E flank of Long Trek Mountain. (End 6:16 PM, 46ºF)
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