Chugach State Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks & Mount Baldy, Chugach State Park, Alaska (9-2-18)

Day 30 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

7:23 AM, Bottenintnin Lake – Although the sky was blue, mist hung over Bottenintnin Lake. Two white swans sailed among lily pads far from shore. Lupe sniffed eagerly through the forest nearby, but wasn’t having any luck. Still early. Apparently the squirrels were still in bed. SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal, but also made several forays into the forest with Loop. The were-puppy put in an appearance, and as the morning wore on, the forest rang with the shrill happy barking of the American Dingo. The chattering squirrels had finally gotten up!

Loop off to an early start at **Bottenintnin Lake** on the Kenai Peninsula.

The ferocious were-puppy appears to threaten SPHP!

Full of water lilies, **Bottenintnin Lake** is wide, but shallow. At one point, Lupe saw two white swans far from shore.

Lupe and SPHP had discovered this quiet spot along Bottenintnin Lake after Lupe’s adventure to the Skilak Lookout last year. On a sunny day like this one, Looper was going to find a mountain to climb somewhere before it was over, but Bottenintnin Lake had become a favorite place. SPHP was glad the Carolina Dog got to spend a big part of the morning here, but after a few happy hours, it was time to move on. (10:38 AM)

By 2:00 PM, Lupe was out of the Kenai Peninsula back in Anchorage. The only stop along the way had been for a look at Hope Point (3,709 ft.) across the Turnagain Arm, which Loop had climbed 6 days ago in rain and fog. Today Hope Point basked in sunshine beneath a cloudless sky.

*We should have stopped and climbed **Hope Point** again, SPHP! We would have had splendid views today!* **Hope Point** (Center) across the **Turnagain Arm**. Photo looks SW.

Nearly mid-afternoon. If Lupe was actually going to climb a mountain today, she had better get on with it. Fortunately, Chugach State Park had plenty of great peaks to choose from within striking distance. Couldn’t take on anything too long or difficult, though, with the day more than half shot already.

3:15 PM, Mount Baldy & Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks trailhead – At the end of Golden Eagle Drive in Eagle River, Looper already had an impressive view of the Knik Arm to the NW. This was the trailhead for Baldy, Mount Baldy, Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, and points beyond. SPHP was shocked to find cars and trucks lining both sides of the road. 50 or 60 vehicles up here, easy! More coming and going all the time. People and dogs all over the place. SPHP had a hard time finding a place to park the G6.

Before hitting the trail, Lupe paused for a look at the grand view of the Knik arm from right here at the trailhead. Far beyond the Knik Arm lay Mount Susitna (4,396 ft.), the Sleeping Lady.

*Mighty busy here at the Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks trailhead, but what a view of the **Knik Arm** already! And there’s **Mount Susitna**, the **Sleeping Lady**, beyond it!* Photo looks WNW.

No posted information was evident at the trailhead. Lupe had a choice of taking a gravel road that disappeared up to the R, or a level path on what appeared to be an abandoned road beyond a large red metal gate. Everyone else seemed to be taking the easy way on the path, so Looper did, too.

The busy gravel path was lined with tall bushes, and remained level or at a slight incline all the way to a small pond where the trail divided. Shortly before getting to this pond, SPHP spoke with a man who advised staying to the R here, going past an old wooden building, and taking a steeper route. This would avoid a long muddy stretch of trail coming down from Baldy (3,038 ft.).

The man had a 3 year old girl with him who had made it up Baldy under her own power, a gain of over 1,200 feet of elevation! They had climbed Baldy by a different steep route, which started with the gravel road that went off to the R back at the trailhead, and approaches Baldy from the W. They had just come down by a much easier route, which leaves Baldy heading E, and then makes a big sweeping curve around to the N before arriving at the pond.

Apparently the way the man and the 3 year old had gone was a popular loop route, but the big curve providing a much gentler rate of descent that they had just slogged down had been a sea of mud.

Sounded like good advice. SPHP thanked the man, congratulated the plucky 3 year old on her successful ascent of Baldy, and Lupe had gone on to the pond. After helping herself to a drink, the Carolina Dog took the recommended trail to the R, which soon did go past an old wooden building.

At the little pond a bit over 0.5 mile from the trailhead. Photo looks NE.

*We’ve hardly left the pond, and there’s the wooden building up ahead!* Photo looks SE.

Once past the wooden building, the trail turned toward Baldy (3,038 ft.) and started climbing. Before long, Lupe reached a T intersection where she went L. She hadn’t gone far, when a couple coming down said that this way was very muddy higher up, and they didn’t recommend it.

Heading toward Baldy after passing the old wooden building. Photo looks S.

So Lupe went back to the T to try the trail to the R. This branch soon started directly up Baldy’s steep N slope. The trail deteriorated rapidly as Lupe climbed above several people picking berries.

Heading up Baldy’s N slope. Photo looks S.

Looking back down from partway up Baldy. The pond and wooden building are both visible. Photo looks NNE.

The side of the mountain became very steep. The trail turned into such a faint path, that it was on the verge of disappearing entirely. Loopster gained hundreds of feet of elevation without any discernable change in the situation. Quite plainly, SPHP must not have understood the advice others had provided. This route couldn’t possibly be what they had been recommending. However, if a 3 year old girl could make it up Baldy on a steep route, so could Lupe and SPHP.

Resigned to climbing straight up the N slope clear to the summit, more than halfway up Baldy, SPHP was surprised to see Lupe standing next to a much better trail. This trail was traversing Baldy’s N slope, gradually gaining elevation as it went E. Little pink flags marked the route.

Nearly 2/3 of the way up Baldy, Lupe comes to a much better trail traversing the N slope. **Knik Arm** in the distance. **Mount Susitna** (R). Photo looks WSW.

What a gift! An easier way up. Loopster followed the trail E. She could already see her primary peakbagging goal for the day, the 3-pronged summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks (4,449 ft.), in the distance.

**Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (Center) and **Roundtop** (L) on the horizon. Photo looks E.

Following the curvature of the mountain, the trail turned SE. This trail was brand new! So new, that it was still under construction. Loopster started seeing chunks of tundra that had been freshly torn up and set aside. After going only a short distance, she reached an abrupt end. Pink flags continued along the slope marking the route the unfinished trail would eventually take.

At the end of the unfinished trail. Pink flags mark the future route. Photo looks SE.

So that was that! Lupe resumed going straight up the slope. Hundreds of feet higher, the terrain finally started leveling out. Lupe eventually arrived at the W end of Baldy’s summit ridge. From here she could see the town of Eagle River, and the Knik Arm all the way to Cook Inlet.

At the **W end of Baldy’s summit ridge**. **Cook Inlet** is in the distance on the L, the **Knik Arm** on the R. The town of Eagle River is spread out below. Photo looks SW.

The trailhead Lupe started out from is the bare spot down in the trees beyond her head. Eagle River, the Glenn Highway, and Knik Arm are all in sight. Photo looks W.

Baldy (3,038 ft.) was a super popular destination! A dozen people were milling around enjoying the views. A rock formation where the Dowling survey benchmark was shown on the topo map was clearly the highest spot at the W end. So many people were coming and going, that Lupe had to wait in line for a turn on top.

Loop gets a turn on the high point at the **W end of Baldy**. Photo looks E.

**Roundtop** (L) and **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (R) from the W end of Baldy.

Everyone hung around the scenic W high point, as if it were Baldy’s true summit. However, a considerably smaller rock formation toward the E end of the summit ridge appeared to be slightly higher. No one else was paying any attention to this less notable high point, so Lupe didn’t have to wait for a turn here.

Having visited both the E and W high points, the American Dingo could now claim a successful ascent of Baldy. However, according to the topo map, she hadn’t made it to the summit of Mount Baldy (3,281 ft.) yet, a rounded hill almost a mile farther ESE toward Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks along a vast ridge.

The distinction between Baldy and Mount Baldy is a bit confusing. SPHP would have bet money that all these people up at Baldy would have said they’d climbed Mount Baldy. Hardly mattered. Mount Baldy is almost 250 feet higher, but since Baldy is at the far W end of the same giant ridge, the views were almost certainly better from here. No real reason to go to Mount Baldy unless one is continuing on to Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, which Lupe was.

**Mount Baldy** (L) is barely distinguishable as a hill toward the end of the ridge leading to **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (L). Photo looks ESE from **Baldy’s true summit**.

From the E end of Baldy, Lupe followed a trail ENE losing a fair amount of elevation. This was the popular route down Baldy that eventually curves N through the muddy stretch leading to the pond. However, as soon as she could, Loop left the trail and headed for Mount Baldy.

Since it was already getting late to consider climbing Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, no one else was going this way. Lupe had the whole giant ridge to explore pretty much to herself.

**Baldy** (at the end of the ridge) from **High Point 3058** (932 m) on the way to Mount Baldy. Photo looks WNW.

**Baldy** (Center) from **Mount Baldy**. Photo looks WNW.

**Roundtop** (L) and **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (R) from the E end of **Mount Baldy**. Photo looks E.

After briefly visiting High Point 3058 and Mount Baldy (3,281 ft.), Lupe headed for Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. A dirt road took her to the base of the long slope leading up to the jagged rock formations along the top of a rugged ridgeline. A trail that sometimes climbed aggressively, and other times switchbacked higher, provided a route up.

On the way up the long slope. Photo looks ESE.

The **Knik Arm** beyond a flat part of the huge ridge that extends N. Photo looks NW.

The SE side of the ridgeline that forms Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks is cliffy, so all the unmaintained trails and routes Lupe followed always stayed on the NW side of the mountain. The ridgeline itself was too rugged for any trail to stay right on top. Once Loop got up to the rock formations, she sometimes had views to the SE through gaps between them.

Near the first of the big rock formations Lupe came to upon reaching the ridgeline. Photo looks SE.

Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks (4,449 ft.) has three distinct high points. Having long had a clear view of the mountain from a distance, it was plainly evident that the first one Loop was coming to was definitely the lowest. The trail passed fairly close to the first high point, but Lupe did not leave the trail to visit it. With the sun starting to sink noticeably, it was more important to push on to the true summit.

Approaching the first, and lowest, of 3 distinct high points on **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**. Although Lupe passed near it, she did not go to the top. Photo looks ENE.

Despite having had a great look at the mountain, which of the other two high points was the true summit was not entirely clear. SPHP was of the opinion that the most distant high point was slightly higher, but that could have been an illusion.

Getting closer to **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**‘ last two high points. **Roundtop** is on the L. The third high point SPHP thought was the **true summit** is at Center, The competing **middle high point**, which must be nearly the same elevation, is at R. Photo looks NE.

Past the first high point approaching the middle one (L). Photo looks E.

**Blacktail’s middle summit** (L), **Vista Peak (4,987 ft.)** (Center), and **Mile High Peak (5,331 ft.)** (R). Photo looks E.

The **Little Peters Creek drainage**. Photo looks NNW.

**Mount Magnificent (4,272 ft.)** in the foreground. Photo looks SE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking back down the **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks ridgeline** before reaching the middle high point. Two people are standing on the **first high point** (R). Photo looks SW.

So far everything had been easy, but as Lupe approached the middle high point, that began to change. The trail she was following was braided, and amounted to little more than a goat path. The NW side of the mountain became increasingly steep. Switching over to the SE side where there were now gigantic cliffs was out of the question.

Lupe got very high, quite close to the middle high point, but she skipped this one, too, although reaching it didn’t appear difficult. The situation deteriorated as the Carolina Dog tried to continue on to the last high point. The goat paths along the steep slopes were very narrow, but the worst part was trying to get beyond long spines of rock that went straight down the mountainside. Many others had done it, and Lupe could, too, but the rocks were worn so smooth that SPHP didn’t trust the hand or foot holds.

On the way around the middle high point. The third and final high point is on the L. Photo looks NE.

The **true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (as far as SPHP could tell) is on the L. One of the most challenging rock spines to get past extends far down to the L from the rock formation on the R. Photo looks NE.

The problem was ultimately solved by making a considerable down climb to reach a more favorable spot to get around the biggest of the spines. Once that had been accomplished, Lupe climbed back up to the ridgeline. She reached a good-sized area of fairly level ground at a big gap in the rock formations that provided grand views to the SE.

Beyond the last of the spines of rock that ran down the NW side of the mountain. Loop is on the way back up to the big gap along the ridgeline at R. Photo looks NE.

At the big gap between the second and third high points. **Mount Magnificent** (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Similar view with help from the telephoto lens.

The rest was easy again. From the gap, Lupe followed a path across a slope that wasn’t nearly as steep as those near the middle high point. The path led up to a ridge running NW from the third high point. A modest cairn sat right where Loop gained the NW ridge. This ridge was plenty wide, and provided an excellent direct ramp to the summit.

Cairn where Lupe reached the third high point’s NW ridge. Photo looks NW.

On the way up the NW ridge to the third high point. Photo looks SE.

A small conical hill, the uppermost portion of which was nearly all rock, capped the third high point at the NE end of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. A single tall boulder was the absolute high point. Lupe leapt up on top. She had done it! The American Dingo stood astride the true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks (4,449 ft.)!

On the third high point at the NE end of the mountain, the **true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**. Photo looks W.

Lupe on the **true summit**. The middle high point, which seemed very nearly as high, is on the R. Photo looks SSW.

An intrepid Carolina Dog atop **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**.

From the third high point, the middle high point did look slightly lower. Admittedly, it was a close call. SPHP wasn’t 100% certain Lupe was at the true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, but almost.

The views, of course, were spectacular! Lupe could see all the way down the Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks ridgeline to the middle and first high points, and clear on down to Baldy, which looked tiny from here. To the W was the Knik Arm. To the SW, Anchorage, Cook Inlet, and very far away, Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.) and Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.).

In other directions, Lupe gazed upon a sea of peaks in Chugach State Park. The peaks nearby looked barren and dry. Farther away, especially toward the SE, were considerably higher mountains, some with snow or glaciers on them. If Lupe had gotten an early start here this morning, it looked like it would have been fun and relatively easy to continue along the ridgelines to either Roundtop (4,787 ft.) or Vista Peak (4,987 ft.).

If Lupe had gotten a much earlier start, it would have been easy to follow the ridgelines to **Roundtop** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Roundtop** (R) from Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. Photo looks NNE.

**Vista Peak** (R) was farther away than Roundtop, but looked like a fun ridge walk, too. **Mile High Peak** (far R). Photo looks E.

Looking back down the **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks ridgeline**. The **middle high point** (L) and lower first high point (R) are both in view. Photo looks SW.

**Middle summit** (L), **first summit** (Center), and **Mount Baldy** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Higher peaks to the SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Unfortunately, Lupe didn’t have time to explore farther along the ridges connecting to other mountains. She had a gorgeous evening, but it was evening. The sun was getting close to the horizon. Loop couldn’t even stay at the summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks for too long before she would have to start back.

On the return, Lupe did not down climb to get past the rock spines near the middle high point. She stayed higher this time, and managed to find a slightly less daunting and troublesome way through. Loop again found herself near the top of the middle high point. This time, since SPHP couldn’t entirely rule out the possibility that the middle high point was actually the true summit, she did climb to the top.

In truth, from here, the middle summit did look just as high as the third high point had been.

On **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks’ middle high point**. The **third summit** is hard to see in front of **Roundtop** (L), since it blends in so well from this perspective. Photo looks NE.

The top of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks’ middle summit was a very small area. With the sun only half an hour from setting now, Lupe could only stay a few minutes. SPHP congratulated her on making it to the top of both of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rock’s highest points. The Carolina Dog seemed quite pleased by the praise and attention.

At the **middle high point**. **Mount Magnificent** (Center) in the foreground.

The sun set before Lupe made it down off Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, but for a while she enjoyed the long twilight of the far N. Although she again passed close to Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks’ first high point, Loop never did go to the top. She did revisit Mount Baldy at dusk. By the time she made it to Baldy, the city lights of Eagle River and Anchorage glittered beneath the deep black of space.

Sunset beyond the **Knik Arm** during the descent.

Heading down to **Mount Baldy** (lower L) and **Baldy** (L of Center).

**Anchorage** and **Cook Inlet**. **Redoubt Volcano** (Center) and **Iliamna Volcano** (far L). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Eagle River (foreground) and Anchorage (background) from Baldy. Photo looks SW.

Spooky Dingo of the Night back on Baldy.

The descent from Baldy took a long time. With only the aide of a weak flashlight, SPHP slowly, uncertainly, tried to navigate the very steep slope that the trail from the W came up. Some places the trail was so braided, it seemed like the whole mountain was trail. Other spots, Lupe had to help search for signs of any trail at all. Sometimes the flashlight revealed only a dark abyss ahead, mandating a course correction.

After losing what seemed like a lot of elevation, Lupe finally came to some switchbacks on a fairly good path. It felt like the worst must be over. However, the switchbacks suddenly ended at a drop off. After a tricky down climb, Lupe found the switchbacks again, but finding and losing the switchbacks recurred with distressing frequency.

Near the end, the slope diminished. The trail became more consistent. Ahead was a tower with red lights that SPHP suspected the gravel road from the trailhead must go to. This proved to be the case. Lupe came to the road before getting to the tower, and was soon back at the trailhead.

Middle of the night. Time for a quick bite, and a long snooze. Perhaps to dream again of those glorious fleeting moments in the blue Alaskan sky atop the soaring pinnacle of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. (12:10 AM, 41°F)

**Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**, Chugach State Park, Alaska 9-2-18

Trailhead Directions: From the curve at the NE corner of Eagle River Loop Road in the town of Eagle River, take Skyline Road (a R turn, if heading N). Skyline Road winds with many curves up through a residential neighborhood eventually leading into or becoming Golden Eagle Drive. The trailhead is at the end of Golden Eagle Drive.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Chugach State Park Map

Chugach State Park Brochure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Pepper Peak, Chugach State Park, Alaska (8-31-16)

Day 33 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Yowser! Over 4,500 feet of elevation gain! Most definitely a long day ahead. Yet it would be a glorious one, if Lupe and SPHP could make it to the top of Pepper Peak. Soup, Swiss Miss and sardines for breakfast. SPHP was sick of sardines, but Lupe devoured the rest of the tin with gusto. Thank heavens!

SPHP paid the $5.00 daily trailhead parking fee, then Lupe went down for a look at gorgeous Eklunta Lake. Totally clear skies and nearly calm. Conditions were going to be perfect! After a few minutes along the lakeshore, Lupe and SPHP went looking for the trail to Twin Peaks. (9:19 AM, 39°F)

Lupe’s long last day of August 2016 started on the shore of beautiful Eklunta Lake. Photo looks SE.

On the way to the trail, Lupe got a glimpse of what was in store for her – the long, long SW ridge of Pepper Peak (5,381 ft.). The view was a bit daunting. It didn’t look scary, or like something Lupe couldn’t do, just exhaustingly long. As they say, though, every journey starts with that first step. Lupe’s paws were already trotting right along. She would get up Pepper Peak, if SPHP could.

The sheer size of Pepper Peak from down near lake level was a bit daunting. However, it didn’t look like anything technical or too scary. Lupe could do that! Photo looks NE.

Lupe crossed a bridge over Thachkatnu Creek. The Twin Peaks trail headed off to the L (NNW). Lupe’s long climb began.

Such a beautiful day! The Twin Peaks trail started in a forest. There wasn’t much to be seen except the trees. The trail zigged NE. Right away, Lupe gained 300 or 400 feet of elevation on a relentless, fairly steep climb. The trail then zagged NW for a longer stretch on the way to the Thachkatnu Creek valley between Twin Peaks and Pepper Peak.

The trail wasn’t as steep along in here. Autumn was already on its way to Alaska. Leaves were beginning to turn yellow. Lupe sniffed and explored along the newly carpeted Yellow Leaf trail.

Follow, follow, follow, follow, follow the Yellow Leaf Trail! Toto on the way to the Emerald … no wait, make that Lupe on a relatively flat section of the Twin Peaks trail on her way to the Thachkatnu Creek valley between Twin Peaks and Pepper Peak. Photo looks NW.

As the Twin Peaks trail reached the Thachkatnu Creek valley, it turned NE again, staying high up on the Pepper Peak side. Near the gradual turn, the trail had become steeper, gaining elevation even faster than before. Lupe gained another 300 or 400 feet before the slope slackened as the trail zigged back to the SE.

Lupe had gained enough elevation by now so that she was getting close to tree line. The forest was starting to thin out a bit. Along another steep climb to the NE, Lupe reached an opening with a gorgeous view of Eklunta Lake.

Lupe reaches the first clear view of Eklunta Lake from the Twin Peaks trail. Photo looks SE.

Two benches are positioned along the Twin Peaks trail. Lupe was almost to the first one. Another steep little climb and she was there.

SPHP had been looking for the benches for a while. Lupe had already come so far, SPHP thought it was possible she had somehow missed the first bench, but this was actually it. As SPHP learned a little later on, only the first bench has a view of Eklunta Lake.

Lupe reaches the first of two benches along the Twin Peaks trail. Only the first bench has a view of Eklunta Lake. Photo looks SE.

From the first bench, the trail turned back to the NW again leaving Eklunta Lake behind. Lupe was still mostly in forest, but tall bushes were becoming more prominent. From here on, the trail kept climbing steadily. Lupe came to no more relatively level sections. It was all sort of steep.

Soon Lupe was back over toward the Thachkatnu Creek valley again. Once more, the trail turned NE going up the valley, remaining high up on the Pepper Peak side. The forest gave way to the tall bushes as Lupe went up. Lupe could see Twin Peaks towering over the opposite side of the valley.

Twin Peaks from the Twin Peaks trail before reaching the 2nd bench. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe must have been almost a mile from the first bench, when she reached the second one. This bench was located on the Thachkatnu Creek side of Pepper Peak’s SW ridge. Twin Peaks were in view, but not Eklunta Lake. There were still lots of tall bushes near the second bench, but Lupe wasn’t far from reaching bush line where the views would really open up.

At the second bench, Lupe faced a choice. She could continue following a trail, presumably part of the Twin Peaks trail, up the Thachkatnu Creek valley toward the saddle between the Twin Peaks and Pepper Peak. The other choice was to take a side trail going SE up to the SW ridgeline coming down from Pepper Peak.

According to information SPHP had found online, Lupe could eventually reach the top of Pepper Peak either way. However, the trail going up the Thachkatnu Creek valley would have limited views for a long way. On Pepper Peak’s SW ridge, Lupe would be able to see Eklunta Lake the entire time, plus lots of magnificent mountains beyond.

With no more to go on than that, the choice was easy. Lupe left the second bench following the trail toward the SW ridge.

Lupe takes a break while SPHP checks the map. She is already a little past the second bench back at the Twin Peaks trail, on her way over to the SW ridgeline coming down from Pepper Peak. By now, she was above the forest and tall bushes, but still faced a tremendous climb to the top of Pepper Peak. Photo looks NE.

The ridgeline was farther from the second bench than SPHP expected, but it didn’t take Lupe too long to get there. Beautiful Eklunta Lake was in sight again.

Lupe reaches Pepper Peak’s SW ridgeline after leaving the Twin Peaks trail and the second bench behind. Even though a very long way remained to the top of Pepper Peak, she had definitely made some progress. The view of Eklunta Lake was getting better and better. Photo looks SE.

Lupe had already come a long way, but the real climb, the long one up Pepper Peak’s SW ridge was just about to begin. Lupe was no longer on any formal, maintained trail, but there was still a path leading higher. Even without the path, the route was plain to see. Just keep heading up the ridge.

Lupe climbed and climbed. The views kept improving with every step higher.

Going up Pepper Peak’s SW ridge. Photo looks NE.

**West Twin Peak (5,472 ft.)** (L) and **East Twin Peak (5,840 ft.)** (R) from Pepper Peak’s SW ridge. *Sorry ’bout making you stare into the sun, Looper!* Photo looks NW.

For a long way, Pepper Peak’s SW ridge was broad and rounded. Other than the steepness, there were no other issues at all to deal with. Up and up was all there was to it, as fast as heart, lungs, legs and desire allowed. SPHP was getting close to a high point near the end of this relatively easy part of the climb, when suddenly Lupe let out a tremendous WOOF!

SPHP looked around. Nothing. What on earth was she woofing at here? Lupe WOOFED again. Oh, there! SPHP looked up, straight up. Two parasailors were floating high above!

Lupe spotted these two parasailors high above Pepper Peak’s SW ridge. Photo looks, yes, UP!

Wow! That looked both scary and amazingly fun. Time for a parasailor break! Lupe and SPHP went just a little higher to the top of the nearby high point, then stopped to watch the parasailors for a while.

The parasailors were moving quite fast. They lost elevation relatively quickly, but seemed to have no problem finding thermals to take them soaring again. It was incredible how far and fast they flew. The one with the pink chute soon flew miles away to the SE far beyond Shaker Peak, and ultimately completely out of sight.

The parasailor with the green, white and blue chute hung around for a while. He made a couple of passes not terribly far above Lupe, which excited her tremendously. She had never seen such a huge bird in all her life! Why it must be a Roc, or a Pterodactyl!

The parasailer with the pink chute soon flew miles away out of sight far beyond Shaker Peak, but this one stuck around to buzz Lupe a couple of times. Was she ever excited! She had never seen a Pterodactyl so close up before! It’s wingspan was HUGE! However, even a Pterodactyl didn’t have the guts to come all the way down to the ground to tangle with an American Dingo!

The second parasailor drifted away out of sight. Wow! SPHP wondered where they had started from, and how they would ever get back. Who knew?

Time to press on again. The way forward was becoming steeper and rockier. The toughest part of the climb was about to begin.

Lupe at newly designated Parasailor Point. The toughest part of the climb up Pepper Peak was about to begin. Photo looks NE.

**Salt Peak (5,455 ft.)** (L) and **Shaker Peak (5,089 ft.)** (R) from Parasailor Point. Photo looks E.

The ridge became rockier and rockier as Lupe progressed. There was still a trail, but it was less well-defined and harder to follow. The slope became steeper. Exposure increased. Lupe encountered more and more loose rock. She tried to stay up near the ridge line, but wound up a little below and to the SE of it.

Looking NW toward Twin Peaks just before tackling the last, big ragged rocky section of Pepper Peak’s SW ridge.

The last ragged, rocky section nearing the top of Pepper Peak. Lupe stayed a little below the ridgeline on the SE (R) side. The trail was hard to follow here. Lupe encountered quite a bit of loose rock and some exposure. Photo looks NE.

Although the ragged part of the ridge wasn’t terribly long, it took a while to navigate it. Lupe finally got past it, though. The ridge was now leveling out. The going was getting a lot easier. It couldn’t be much farther to the top of Pepper Peak!

Ahead was one more big knob of rock. Lupe and SPHP had seen it from far, far below. SPHP believed it was the summit. Lupe seemed to be way up in the sky. Who knew what kind of precipice might be on the other side?

The trail was in much better condition again here. It wound up the SE side of the knob. Lupe headed up. SPHP followed close behind.

Lupe on her way up the last craggy knob. Photo looks N.

Lupe reached the top of the craggy knob. SPHP was glad to see Lupe had not arrived at a pinnacle surrounded by dangerous cliffs. The top of the craggy knob wasn’t terribly large, but had a nice, flat area where Lupe could relax with a fantastic view of Eklunta Lake.

As Lupe had approached the craggy knob, SPHP caught a glimpse of a rounded hill some distance beyond it. The truth became clear even before Lupe reached the top of the knob. This last knob of rock was not the summit of Pepper Peak. The true summit was over at the top of the rounded hill.

This wasn’t bad news. In fact, it was good news! The remaining distance to the true summit was an easy trek. The trail followed an almost level final stretch of ridgeline straight toward it. Piece of cake! When Lupe arrived, she was going to find a nice, big, roomy summit. She could be there in minutes!

Even before Lupe reached the top of the final crag of rock coming up the SW ridge, the last stretch of the ridgeline leading to the true summit of Pepper Peak came into view. Getting there was going to be a piece of cake! Photo looks N.

The views were so amazing, Lupe and SPHP stayed on the last craggy knob of rock for a few minutes before continuing on.

The final journey to the true summit was joyous. Lupe was going to make it to the top of Pepper Peak! She arrived to find a large cairn at the high point at the N end of a spacious summit. This was it. More than 4,500 feet above where she’d started, Lupe stood at the very top of Pepper Peak (5,381 ft.)!

Lupe reaches the true summit of Pepper Peak! Twin Peaks, and the saddle leading over to them, are in view beyond her. Photo looks NW.

The summit of Pepper Peak was an amazing place! Lupe had sweeping 360° panoramic views. Nearby, she could see many peaks of similar elevation. Long, barren ridges, many knife-edged, connected one peak to another to another. In between the ridges were deep U-shaped valleys carved by long departed giant glaciers of the ice age. Eklunta Lake was a beautiful highlight, with big snow and ice-covered peaks in sight miles away beyond its S end.

However, Pepper Peak had a lot more to offer than just the glories relatively close at hand. Pepper Peak is a place for binoculars. Despite not being the highest peak around, Lupe could see tremendous distances in most directions. On the far horizons gleamed many white wonders of Alaska. SPHP knew the names of a few, but most were unknown places of mystery, glimpsed for the first time from afar here on Pepper Peak.

One of the more spectacular high peaks in the distance far from Pepper Peak. Photo looks ESE using the telephoto lens.

Many of the grand peaks visible in the distance from Pepper Peak were so far away, it was next to impossible to get both Lupe and the distant mountain in focus in the same photo.

To the SW, barely visible beyond shimmering Cook Inlet, Lupe could make out Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.) and nearby white mountains of the Aleutian Range. Redoubt was so far away, it hardly even showed up in a photo. To the NW, still far off, but somewhat closer, were the colossal peaks of the Alaska Range. Mount Foraker (17,400 ft.) and Denali (20,310 ft.) at least showed up using the camera’s telephoto lens.

Denali, the highest mountain in North America, from Pepper Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

Unknown peaks of the Alaska Range visible from Pepper Peak. Photo looks NW.

To the ESE, Lupe saw a huge, long snowy ridge. SPHP had no idea what the names of any of those mountains along the ridge were, but the sight was spectacular, and not quite so far away. In fact, the views toward the E and S were the most amazing of any Lupe saw from Pepper Peak. The amount of snow and ice visible, even from a distance, was incredible!

Amazing sights were to the E & S of Pepper Peak, such as this huge, long, towering ridge of white mountains. Photo looks ESE.

Looking ESE with even a little more help from the telephoto lens.

Many people only go as far on the Twin Peaks trail as the first or second bench. Nice, of course, but only by coming all the way up to the top of Pepper Peak will you see this!

The huge snowy ridge connected to an enormous snowfield to the S. Photo looks SE.

Wow! Gorgeous! Love that soft appearing pure white ridge on the R.

Of course, Eklunta Lake to the SSE and the snowy peaks beyond it were highlights of the views from Pepper Peak, too!

Eklunta Lake from the summit of Pepper Peak. The high peak on the left is **Bold Peak (7,522 ft.)**. Photo looks SSE.

Peaks beyond Eklunta Lake through the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

More peaks beyond Eklunta Lake. Still looking SSE, but a bit more toward the S.

**Bold Peak (7,522 ft.)**, seen again here, is a couple miles E of the S end of Eklunta Lake. Photo looks SE.

S end of Eklunta Lake using the telephoto lens.

Before arriving at the summit of Pepper Peak, SPHP had given some thought to having Lupe go on to Shaker Peak (5,089 ft.), about a mile away to the SE. However, the views were so splendid from Pepper Peak, and it had been such a long climb to get here, that the Shaker Peak idea got dropped.

Lupe was fine with the decision. It meant she got a nice long rest on Pepper Peak, while SPHP continued to stare off into the distance in fascination.

Anyone out there know the name of this eye-catching mountain?

Looking N toward Palmer and the Matanuska River. **Lazy Mountain (3,740 ft.)** is seen on the R. Lupe hoped to climb Lazy Mountain tomorrow!

It was hard not to keep coming back to this view again and again. It made such an impression! Photo looks ESE.

SPHP believes the top of Shaker Peak is in view here on the lower right. Photo looks SE.

Lupe at Pepper Peak’s summit cairn with Mount Foraker(L) and Denali(R) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Lupe with Denali in the background. Lupe never got a clear view of Denali when she had been in Denali State Park. The titanic mountain had almost always been completely hidden in the clouds. She had a clear, if distant, view of it from Pepper Peak, though! Photo looks NW.

Looper and SPHP stayed up on Pepper Peak for more than 2 hours. Only one other person came up to the summit during all that time, despite the perfect weather. An Alaskan named Craig appeared from the Twin Peaks route.

SPHP raved about the views from Pepper Peak. To Craig, though, Pepper Peak was just another pleasant summit among many in Alaska. Craig stayed all of 10 minutes on top, then headed for the SW ridge Lupe had come up. Another day, another amazing mountain in Alaska, ho-hum.

SPHP’s enthusiasm wasn’t diminished in the least. Lupe seemed happy here, too!

Loopster on Pepper Peak with gorgeous Eklunta Lake as a backdrop. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe keeps an eye on the sky. You never know when another Pterodactyl might choose to come swooping down on you around here!

*Did you bring any water, SPHP? I’m getting thirsty just looking at this.*

*Hmmm, this is starting to look faintly familiar. Sure is beautiful, though! Loopster, we need one of these for the back yard!*

Lupe was just chillin’ up on Pepper Peak, while SPHP took more photos of photographed photos. Although time was moving on, SPHP found it difficult to tear away from the tremendous views. Mountain mania continued a little longer.

Lupe chillin’ on Pepper Peak with the Twin Peaks in view beyond her. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe wasn’t in any big hurry to leave either. She liked Pepper Peak just fine. Photo looks SW.

See that white peak poking up on the far left? SPHP wondered if Lupe hadn’t also seen it from **The Ramp (5,240 ft.)** a couple of days ago.

This photo doesn’t make as much use of the telephoto lens, but shows the relationships between some of the peaks better.

Sweet! Cranking up the telephoto lens for an even closer look than before.

After more than 2 hours on Pepper Peak, it really was time to go. Even so, it was hard to tear away from the incomparable views. This climb had been so worthwhile! SPHP was very glad Lupe had made the trip. At last, though, Lupe had to begin the trek back to the G6.

On the way down, Lupe was going to take the Twin Peaks route, even though it meant not being able to see as much along the way. The Twin Peaks route did have one advantage. Lupe would avoid the rocky scramble along the upper part of Pepper Peak’s SW ridge.

Exactly how to get to the Twin Peaks route wasn’t entirely clear. One thing was for certain. Lupe needed to get down to the saddle between Pepper Peak and Twin Peaks. Craig had reached the summit cairn coming up from the N, which was the shortest route and probably made the most sense.

Lupe, however, started off going S back down toward the last rocky knob she’d reached on the SW ridge on the way up. Before she quite got to it, she turned sharply back toward the N, following sheep trails below and to the W of the summit of Pepper Peak toward the saddle to Twin Peaks.

Approaching the last rocky knob of Pepper Peak’s SW ridge (seen on the L) on the way down from the summit. From here, Lupe turned sharply almost 180° back toward the right. She followed sheep trails below the summit over to the saddle between Pepper Peak and Twin Peaks. This worked just fine, though Craig’s more direct route going N from the summit was shorter and probably just as easy. Photo looks WSW.

Looking back up toward Pepper Peak from the saddle leading to Twin Peaks. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe saw a couple herds of sheep way over on the slopes of the Twin Peaks. Several dozen sheep were in sight. Photo taken using the telephoto lens.

The trail Lupe was following along the saddle seemed determined to stay up on the ridgeline. Perhaps SPHP gave up on the trail too soon? Lupe and SPHP left it to start heading down into the Thachkatnu Creek valley, expecting to find another trail down there before too long. That didn’t happen.

As is often the case, Lupe had most of her fun on the Pepper Peak excursion on the way back to the G6. She loved roaming the tundra in the Thachkatnu Creek valley! She ran far and wide, sniffing and exploring. At times she was just a distant speck of a Dingo. Once she reappeared from a completely unexpected direction after being out of sight for a few minutes.

Pepper Peak from the upper part of the Thachkatnu Creek valley, still not terribly far below the saddle between Pepper Peak and the Twin Peaks. Photo looks SE.

The route back down via the saddle and Thachkatnu Creek valley had absolutely no scrambling, exposure, or areas of loose rock. So it’s perfectly possible to reach the top of Pepper Peak completely avoiding that kind of thing. Somewhere, there’s probably a decent trail much of the way, but it must have been closer to Twin Peaks than Lupe and SPHP went.

For a long, long way, Lupe and SPHP lost elevation without coming to a trail. The vegetation became denser and taller as Lupe went lower. However, she didn’t get quite all the way down to where the tall bushes and forest started in earnest. Lupe finally found a trail when she was about at the elevation of the second (higher) bench on the Twin Peaks trail. By then, she wasn’t that far away from it.

Lupe and SPHP lost even more elevation crossing Thachkatnu Creek, but immediately had to regain it, climbing steeply on the other side. Not too surprisingly, Lupe arrived at the Twin Peaks trail right at the second bench. All that remained was a long, pleasant downhill stroll on the Twin Peaks trail.

Near the first bench, Lupe saw Eklunta Lake in the evening sunlight one more time from above.