Mount Mye, Anvil Range, Yukon Territory, Canada – Part 1: On & Off the Moose Trail to Base Camp (9-8-23)

Part 2 of Day 44 & Days 45 thru 48 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-4-23, 5:35 PM – For a 4th evening on this Dingo Vacation, the RAV4 was once again parked along the ridge with a view of the N end of Atlin Lake, flanked on the L by Black Mountain (5,738 ft.) and Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.), and on the R by Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).  Drinking the last grape Powerade purchased in Tok, Alaska what seemed like ages ago, it was a view for which SPHP had new found respect.  Crumbs falling on her pink blanket, Lupe finished chomping on a cracker.

Any more summer sausage and Ritz crackers, SPHP?

Nope, that’s all we had left, Loopster.

The Carolina Dog heaved a big sigh, put her head down, and closed her eyes.

After more than 34 sleepless hours, even SPHP’s painfully throbbing shin and toes couldn’t keep the sandman away.

9-5-23, 7:10 AM, 45ºF –  A nearly 14 hour snooze definitely helped.  The sky was overcast, when Lupe woke with a little cough.

You alright, Loop?

It’s nothing, SPHP.  How’s your shin?

Got a big knot on it, and part of my L paw is all purple, Looper, but at least my shin isn’t throbbing any more.  Doesn’t hurt, as long as I don’t touch it.

Are we going to Whitehorse for supplies today, SPHP?

No.  We still have things we can eat, Sweet Puppy.  Just going to hang out here.  You can relax, while I catch up the trip journal.

Salmon for breakfast, baked beans for lunch, chicken and dumplings for dinner.  Lupe participated in two out of the three.  Other than eating and taking it easy on her pink blanket, the American Dingo enjoyed 3 romps in her favorite woods, visiting the newly cleaned up abandoned camp each time, and roaming farther than she’d ever been before.

A lazy afternoon on the pink blanket.
Waiting for chicken and dumplings to heat up. Photo looks S.
An evening romp in Lupe’s favorite woods. Photo looks NW.
Happy times!
Black Mountain (Center), Mount Hitchcock (R), Atlin Lake (far R). Photo looks SSE.
Black Mountain (far L), Mount Hitchcock (L), Atlin Lake (Center), Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.

All in all, it had been a pleasant and much needed rest day.

9-6-23, 7:10 AM, 47ºF – A beautiful morning!  Lupe enjoyed a final romp in her favorite woods.  The Carolina Dog felt so wonderful that on the way back to the RAV4, the dastardly were-puppy attacked SPHP.

9-6-23, 2:38 PM, 64ºF – Having spent most of the morning fueling up and resupplying in Whitehorse, the “Welcome to Carmacks” sign along North Klondike Hwy No. 2 was the next stop.

The spiffy welcome sign along North Klondike Hwy No. 2 on the way into Carmacks.
Carmacks Landing history.

Carmacks!  Isn’t that on the way to Dawson City, SPHP?  Are we going back to the Dempster Highway again?

Yes to your first question, and no to the last, Looper.  We’re crossing the Yukon River here, then heading E on Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4.

Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4, SPHP?  Funny, but I can’t seem to remember a thing about it!

That’s because we’ve never been on it before, Loopster.

Oh, awesome, SPHP!  All new adventures in all new territory coming up?

Precisely, Sweet Puppy.

The turn onto Hwy No. 4 came a mile after crossing the Yukon River.  Lupe was soon enjoying a terrific view of the fabled river from a high bluff overlooking it.

The mighty Yukon River. Photo looks SE.

The highway followed the Yukon River E for a while, before eventually angling NE up the Little Salmon River valley.  The Little Salmon River was seldom, if ever, in view.  No big deal, but SPHP was disappointed when Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 reached Little Salmon Lake, and there were no pullouts with views.  Trees lining the highway permitted only occasional glimpses of the huge lake.

Taking a chance on a side road named Snowcap View Road, it went by several private cabins before getting Lupe down to Little Salmon Lake.  Better yet, Snowcap Mountain (5,800 ft.) was actually in sight directly across the impressive lake.

Snowcap Mountain (Center) across Little Salmon Lake. Photo looks S.
Little Salmon Lake. Photo looks WSW.
If this is Little Salmon Lake, Big Salmon Lake must practically be an ocean! Photo looks E.

At least, Lupe had gotten a chance to see Little Salmon Lake.  Returning to Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4, the drive continued.  Approaching the E end of Little Salmon Lake, SPHP slowed down, constantly peering up at the mountains to the NE.

What’s up?  Looking for anything in particular, SPHP?

Yes.  I’m looking for Truitt Peak (6,850 ft.), the next mountain on your list of possibilities, Looper.  Think I see it, too.

SPHP soon had Lupe spending quite a bit of time sniffing around various spots that might serve as a place to stash the RAV4 during an attempt on Truitt Peak.  She had some success, coming up with a couple of choices.

With a place to park, we can climb Truitt Peak tomorrow, SPHP!

Yeah, but I don’t know, Looper.  Looks like a real long bushwhack to get to the alpine.  Not sure my shin is ready yet to force our way through dense forest and bushes again.  Hurts when anything touches my big knot.

Wanting get another look at Truitt Peak, SPHP found one at the empty Drury Creek campground.  While SPHP pondered the view of Truitt Peak’s distant summit, Lupe explored Little Salmon Lake’s shoreline.

E end of Little Salmon Lake from the Drury Creek campground. Photo looks SE.
Evening at Little Salmon Lake. Photo looks W.
Truitt Peak (Center) from the Drury Creek campground. Photo looks NE.

9-6-23, 7:05 PM, Drury Creek campground on Little Salmon Lake

So, come to any enlightened conclusions yet, SPHP?

Yes, afraid so, Loop.  Hate to skip out on Truitt Peak when we’re in already in position for it, but due to my wounded shin, we’re going to.

Too bad, SPHP, but I understand.  Where to, then?

Faro.  I suspect there’s a trail at least partway to Mount Mye (6,763 ft.).

Faro was still close to an hour’s drive E.  On this gorgeous evening, the slanting rays of the sinking sun highlighted all the fall colors.  Faro was 10 km N of Robert Campbell Hwy No. 4 along Mitchell Road, and after making the L turn, this short drive was even more spectacular.  Mitchell Road wound downhill, eventually bottoming out at a beautiful bridge over the Pelly River.

9-6-23, 8:09 PM – There’s an access road going down to the river on the L, SPHP!  Please take it.  We gotta see this!

Pelly River bridge to Faro. Photo looks E.

The American Dingo was so right!  The Pelly River bridge was certainly worth a stop.  After admiring the scenic river from the S bank, Lupe and SPHP piled back into the RAV4.  Driving across the red and light green bridge, Mitchell Road wound uphill a couple more km to Faro.

Crossing the Pelly River bridge to Faro. Photo looks NE.

At Faro, Mitchell Road reached an intersection.  A turn R on Campbell Street led into the village of Faro itself.  Going straight, Mitchell Road continued uphill, now as the Faro Mine Access Road.

SPHP drove right on by Faro.

We’re going to the mine, SPHP?

Nope.  I believe this road is part of the W half of a loop that will get us to Vangorda Creek, Looper.  On the topo map, it looks like there’s some kind of a trail a little E of the creek that heads up to the alpine S of Mount Mye.  Let’s see if we can find it before it gets dark.

Passing a place called “Fingers” on the L after a few km, the road, which was now a very wide gravel road in good condition, climbed steeply NE for roughly 10 km before coming to a fork where there was an electric power substation.  SPHP had been looking for a turn to the R, but upon making it, immediately became concerned.  Signs warned that this was a restricted area, and said to stop by the guardhouse.

Well, Dingo feathers!  We were doing so well, too, Loop.  Vangorda Creek is only another 6 km.

Going SE on this new road despite the signs, the guardhouse appeared on the L 3 km in.  It was dusk by now, and the guardhouse was dark.  A huge fence with a formidable closed gate blocked the road.

Figures.  We’ve struck out going this way, Loopster.

There was another turn to the R a few hundred feet back, SPHP.  I saw a bunch of pickup trucks over by some buildings.

Hmm.  Might as well try it, Loop.  Worst they can do is throw us out.

The buildings proved to be some kind of a work camp.  Although it was already almost dark, a few people were milling around outside.  No one knew anything at all about Mount Mye.  What they did know was that this region was part of the former Faro mining operation.  Most of the territory around here was restricted access.

Back to Truitt Peak, SPHP?

Possibly.  Not yet, though, Loopster.  Tomorrow we’ll check out the E side of the loop.  Maybe we can still get to Vangorda Creek that way?

Discouraged, SPHP drove back down the mountain, deciding to turn in at the Fingers place before getting all the way to Faro.  Fingers turned out to be a wildlife viewing and nature interpretive site.  Using the flashlight to examine a posted map of the area, it contained excellent news.

9-7-23, 9:03 AM, 46ºF, Fingers Interpretive Site

Been barking at squirrels, Loopster?

It’s a great way to start the day, SPHP.  I like this place!  Ready to go, yet?

Almost, Loop.  Let’s have a look at the view, then get a photo of that map.

View from the Fingers Interpretive Site. Photo looks SW.
Posted map.

Alright, got it, Loopster.  No. 5 on this map is the trail to Mount Mye.  It’s right where I thought it would be, E of Vangorda Creek.  Must be access to it from the E side of the loop!

Terrific, SPHP!  Let’s go find the trailhead.

That was the plan until SPHP drove into Faro.

Hey, there’s a visitor centre, Looper.  Let’s find out what they can tell us.

At the Campbell Region Interpretive Centre in Faro.

A note on the door said that the Campbell Region Interpretive Centre didn’t open until 10:00 AM.

Hmm.  Not that long from now, Loop.  Let’s wait.

After a short driving tour of Faro, the interpretive centre was open.

I’ll be back soon, Loopster.

It was too bad they didn’t allow Dingoes.  There was some fine sniffing to be done in the interpretive centre for a keen nose.

Campbell Region Interpretive Centre display room.

9-7-23, 10:30 AM, Campbell Region Interpretive Centre –

Sure took your sweet time about it, SPHP.  Learn anything?

Yeah.  Glad we stopped in, Looper.  Talked to a lady named Sabine.  First thing she told me was that due to a bridge that washed out, it’s no longer possible to drive to the Mount Mye trailhead near Vangorda Creek.  She had no idea how far it was to the trailhead from the bridge.

Oh, that’s bad, SPHP!

Yup, a real downer, Loop.  However, Sabine also said that it’s possible to get to Mount Mye from the Moose Trail, which starts 16 km up the Faro Mine Access Road.  Instead of turning R at the fork, we go L, looking for a moose sign.  Sabine provided me with a set of written instructions on how to find the trail, and navigate the first part of it, which is evidently a bit confusing.

Oh, that’s good, SPHP!

Yes, except that the instructions seem mighty vague, too, Looper.  When I asked questions, Sabine couldn’t clarify anything.  She’s never been on the Moose Trail herself.  All she could really tell me was to look for a moose sign along the R side of the road.  The directions, which I find confusing enough, have a cryptic message scribbled on them saying “Moose sign 50 m back.”  50 meters back from where?  Sabine had no more clue than I did.

Not so hot, SPHP, but how hard can it be to spot a moose sign?

Who knows, Loopster?  In any case, Sabine also gave me vague directions on how to find the trailhead for both Rose Mountain (6,513 ft.) and Faro Mountain (5,467 ft.), too.  They are out W past the Faro Mine.  Supposed to rain this afternoon, so maybe we can at least find the trailheads today?

Rain wouldn’t be surprising, SPHP.  It’s awfully cloudy.

Oh, and by the way, Sabine gave me 2 little Milk-Bones for you.

Now you’re talking, SPHP!  That was nice of her.

Intent upon finding the Moose Trail, SPHP drove back up the Faro Mine Access Road while Lupe munched on the Milk-Bones.  This time, SPHP took the L branch of the road when it forked, then began slowing down after a couple more km, the better to watch for a moose sign on the R.

Nothing!  SPHP drove all the way to the Faro Mine main gate without seeing a moose sign.

Now what, SPHP?

Seems strange that we didn’t see the Moose Trail, Looper.  I was driving super slow.  The Rose and Faro Mountain trailhead is supposed to be at the end of a side road 3 miles W of here.  Let’s see if we can find that before making another Moose Trail pass.

A side road did leave the Faro Mine Access Road heading W, just before reaching the Faro Mine main gate.  Taking it, 2 live moose, a mama and calf, soon crossed right in front of the RAV4.

What luck!  No doubt they’re on the Moose Trail, SPHP!

Yes, but not the Moose Trail we’re looking for, Loopster.

The side road ended after 2+ miles.  A deserted gravel yard was on the R, and another road headed into the trees on the L.  It was blocked by a red and black trailer.  An ATV, a bigger white trailer, and a small table with camp chairs were all nearby.  No signs about any trails were evident, but Rose Mountain (6,513 ft.) was in sight.

Rose Mountain (Center) in the distance. Photo looks W.

No one was around.  The whole setup seemed odd.  Exploring the gravel road beyond the red and black trailer, within 200 feet it turned to grass as it headed S through a region full of bushes.  Trotting S along this jeep trail, for it was no more than that, Lupe crossed most of the valley before it suddenly ended at Rose Creek, which was big enough to be a river.

Hmm.  Nothing seems much like the way Sabine described it, Loopster.  Might as well head back.

Back at the RAV4, SPHP had just started the engine, and was about to drive off, when a pickup truck with a man and woman in it pulled up.  The woman said that they were moose hunters, and that this was their camp.  They had only left temporarily on some errand.

The moose hunters cheered up considerably when SPHP explained that Lupe was not here to hunt moose, but merely looking for the Moose Trail, and/or the trailhead for Rose and Faro Mountains.  They advised heading back toward Faro as far as an electric power substation.  Look for the Moose Trail there!

9-7-23, 2:03 PM – The substation was easy to find.  It was at same the fork in the road where SPHP had turned R on the way to the guardhouse and locked gate last night.  Sure enough, 150 feet beyond this substation, a wood post bearing a tiny moose sign and an arrow pointing L stood at the start of an ATV trail angling off into the bushes.

At the start of the Moose Trail (L). Totally obvious Moose Trail sign (Center). Road to guardhouse (R). Photo looks E.
Moose Trail sign with appropriate magnification.

We’re in business!  Let’s check it out, SPHP!

Eager to escape the RAV4 for a while, the American Dingo explored the first 1.4 miles of the Moose Trail, at which point the ATV route entered a giant mudhole, which seemed an excellent spot to turn around.  It was starting to rain, anyway.

Despite this reconnaisance mission, SPHP remained mystified.

1.4 miles in along the Moose Trail. Photo looks NE.

Huh.  I don’t get it, Loop.  We saw the teeny weeny Moose Trail sign, and this route did cross the mine haul road, but nothing else at all matches up with the directions Sabine gave me.

How many Moose Trails can there be around Faro, SPHP?

I’m starting to wonder that myself, Loopster.

9-8-23, 10:48 AM, 47ºF – Right or wrong, and it did seem like it had to be right, since there actually was that Moose Trail sign, and the ATV route did head in the general direction of Mount Mye, Lupe was back.

Back at the start of the Moose Trail. Photo looks NE.

Alrighty, Loopster!  Pack’s ready.  Think we’re all set.

Did you remember to bring the tiny house, SPHP?

I did.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

The Moose Trail began perfectly flat, running E along a corridor between tall bushes and a few trees.  This easy stretch didn’t last long.  The trail soon curved L up a steep, rocky slope.  After a quick climb, the ATV route nearly flattened out shortly before reaching more Moose Trail signs on a post next to the Faro Mine haul road mentioned in Sabine’s directions.

Setting out on the super easy first stretch. Photo looks E.
The short, rocky climb at the first curve. Photo looks NW.
Moose Trail signs (R) along the edge of the Faro Mine haul road. Photo looks NNE.
Crossing the haul road. Photo looks SE.

A few tens of feet after crossing the haul road, another Moose Trail sign was leaning over among the bushes on the R at the top of a skinny pole.  This sign was different from the others, and proved to be the last official indication that the Carolina Dog was going the right way.

The Moose Trail sign seen on the R shortly after crossing the haul road.

Beyond the haul road, the Moose Trail was more like an old jeep trail than an ATV route.  The road climbed gradually as Lupe followed it NE.  Much of the road was in great shape, but the mud puddle the American Dingo had made it to yesterday wasn’t the first one she’d encountered.

A nice stretch of road early on. Photo looks NNE.
At the first big mud puddle with a mucky stretch beyond. Photo looks NE.

These first mud puddles were generally easy enough to go around.  The Moose Trail improved again.  After passing through a forested area, the road climbed onto a small ridge where a big stream was visible off to the L (W).  Lupe briefly left the road to get a better look.

Near the stream (L). Photo looks NNE.
A bit farther on, with a better view of the stream (Center). Photo look NNE.

9-8-23, 11:53 AM, along the Moose Trail – Other than the occasional mud puddle and mucky stretch exceptions, the road was firm and dry nearly the entire way back to the giant mud puddle reached yesterday.

Continuing along the firm, dry jeep trail. Photo looks NE.
Back at the same mud puddle Lupe reached yesterday. Photo looks NE.

What came next wasn’t much fun.  From here on, the Moose Trail was mostly a sea of standing water and thick black mud, really more of a Moose Bog than a trail.  A black-pawed Dingo usually traipsed right on through the mess without giving it a second thought, but SPHP made a valiant attempt to avoid getting boots and socks full of muck.

Staying always toward the R (E) side, which was a bit higher than the road, SPHP spent a vast majority of the time completely off the wretched Moose Trail, thrashing through dense, head-high bushes.  Off-road, the ground was covered with thick, green moss that had absorbed water like a sponge.  Standing water was often here, too, draining from this soggy region in a thousand tiny streams down onto the “road”.

A typical stretch of the Moose Bog. Photo looks NNE.

Passing one ghastly spot after another, SPHP kept trying to return to the Moose Trail, but it was no use.  Virtually the entire trail was nothing but muck and water.  Rare semi-dry spots ended almost instantly, another long stretch of misery ahead.

Criminitly, Loopster!  I see now why they call it the Moose Trail.  Only a genuine moose would enjoy a slog through a swamp like this!

Maybe you should have asked Sabine for directions to the Human Trail to Mount Mye, SPHP?

Ahh, yes!  The Human Trail to Mount Mye!  Wish I’d had the presence of mind to ask for that instead, Loop, although one would think that Sabine would notice that I don’t really much resemble a moose, do I?

Well, now that you happen to mention it, SPHP, from the right angle, and in the right light, you …

Oh, no you don’t, Looper!  Don’t even go there!

The horrid, no good, excruciatingly slow bushwhack went on and on.  Perseverance would eventually pay off, though.  The Moose Trail was clearly heading for the lower W slopes of Peak 6400, where steeper ground would almost certainly put an end to the bog slog.

9-8-23, 1:01 PM, Moose Trail – Over an hour had gone by during SPHP’s soggy, 0.33 mile bushwhack, but Lupe was finally back on firm ground.  Ahead, the Moose Trail was in vastly improved shape again as it wound up onto Peak 6400’s lower W slopes.  SPHP’s boots squeaked as water squished out with every step during a steep trudge higher.

At the Moose Trail’s initial high point on the slope, SPHP paused for a breather.  A steep, 25 foot deep dip was ahead, beyond which the trail vanished into another forest.

Thankfully, back on terra firma. Photo looks NNE.
At a local Moose Trail high point before a dip (L). Photo looks NNE.

Enough already!  Aren’t you about done griping about the bushwhack yet, SPHP?  We’re in the Yukon!  Mount Mye is a wilderness adventure!  What did you expect?  You should have just stuck with the Moose Trail like I did, instead of battling the bushes.  We would have been through the Moose Bog a lot faster.  Your boots are completely water-logged, anyway.  What good did all that ridiculous bushwhacking do you?

My paws may be soaking wet, Loop, but at least my boots aren’t full of muck.

You could have washed out the muck at the first decent stream we come to, SPHP.

Eh.  Maybe so, Loopster.  Over and done with now.  I’ll shut up about it.

Beyond the steep 25 foot dip, the Moose Trail climbed again, eventually leveling out 250 feet higher than where the Moose Bog ended.  After a pleasant flat stretch, Lake 4663 came into view as the jeep trail began a gradual descent.

An easy traverse along the lower W slopes of Peak 6400. Photo looks NNE.
Approaching Lake 4663 (L of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Is the Moose Trail going to take us to that lake, SPHP?  Looks like it will!

Who knows, Loopster?  I bet you’re right, though.  We’ll soon come to a stream that we’ll have to ford, if you want to visit the lake.  However, we don’t need to go that way, if you’d rather not.  Now that we’re past the W end of Peak 6400, we should really be turning E up the big valley N of it.

Let’s visit the lake, SPHP.  We’re here now, and it isn’t that far, so why not?

The American Dingo soon had her answer.  As the road descended into a region of tall yellow bushes, the Moose Trail once again deteriorated into a sea of mud.  The stream couldn’t have been much farther, but wasn’t in sight yet when SPHP balked.

Sorry, Loop, but I’ve about had it with the Moose Trail.  Lake 4663 isn’t happening.  Let’s stick with our main objective and head for Mount Mye.

Going back up the Moose Trail far enough to reach a mix of tundra and smaller bushes, the Carolina Dog finally abandoned the trail, heading SE up the broad valley N of Peak 6400.

Leaving the Moose Trail. Peak 6400 (Center). Photo looks SE.

The entire valley appeared be full of yellow bushes.  Staying fairly high along Peak 6400’s lower slopes in order to remain among smaller ones seemed best.  Patches of tundra were even better, but relatively rare.

Gaining 150 feet elevation, Lupe briefly enjoyed her best view yet of the S end of Lake 4663.  However, as the Carolina Dog proceeded farther up the valley, the lake soon disappeared entirely behind Peak 6500.

Up on the S side of the valley. Peak 6500 (L), Peak 6400 (R). Photo looks E.
A glance back at Lake 4663 (Center). Photo looks N.
S end of Lake 4663 (Center). Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe eventually needed to cross the stream in the center of the valley.  Angling gradually toward it, the yellow bushes grew in size.  Waist high, chest high, head high, and more on SPHP.  Progress became difficult and slow through the dense thicket during a constant search for relatively open lanes where spurts forward were possible.

However, none of this endless jungle was anywhere close to as bad as the Moose Bog had been.  When Lupe reached the stream in the middle of the valley, it banks were firm, not marshy.  Happily, this stream was small enough to be an easy rock hop.

On the N bank of the stream after crossing it. Photo looks SE.

Once on the N bank, the bushes soon began diminishing in size as Lupe continued up the valley.  More open lanes appeared, even some small clearings.  Progress improved, and would have improved even more, if not for a certain degree of weariness setting in.

An open lane among the yellow bushes. Peak 6400 (R of Center). Photo looks ESE.

The bush ordeal effectively culminated with a trudge up to the top of a bush-free, tundra-covered rise.  From here, 2 small tarns were now in sight, nestled in a large flat region along the base of Peak 6400.  Lupe was already well above them.

The lower tarn (L & Center) from the tundra-covered rise. Photo looks SSW.
The upper tarn (R). Peak 6400 summit (far L). Photo looks SE.

9-8-23, 3:56 PM – Tired, Lupe plunked herself down on the soft tundra.

This is a good, scenic spot, SPHP!  Can we take a break?

Yeah, why not?  It’s not that much farther to Pass 5550, Looper.  1.5 km.  It’s got to be right around this next bend.

Taking a break. Peak 6400 (R), Pass 5550 (L) around the corner. Photo looks E.

SPHP sat down, and began absent-mindedly examining the tundra.  The tundra was always so beautiful, so intricate, delicate, yet tough.

Admiring the tundra.

Pass 5550, is that where we’re staying tonight, SPHP?

That’s the plan, if it isn’t too rocky, Loop, and I can still manage to drag myself up there.

20 minutes shot by.  Ought to be enough to restore some energy.  If Loopster didn’t get going again soon, the way SPHP was feeling, she would be spending the night right here.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

More or less ready to head for Pass 5550 (L of Center). Photo looks E.

Pass 5550 was still nearly 400 feet higher.  More bushes were along the way, including some tall ones, but open lanes almost always made it easy to avoid them.  Overall, the bushes rapidly shrank in size as Lupe gained elevation.  The American Dingo crossed several rock slides along the way, too, none of which presented any real difficulty.

Enjoying a tiny stream.

9-8-23, 5:04 PM – Overcast, the sky was gray, just as it had been all day, when Lupe finally reached Pass 5550, actually coming in a bit higher than the low point.  For the first time, the Carolina Dog could now see 2 mountains E of the pass.  A large, steep-sided dome was closest, only a few km NE.  The other peak, due E, was farther away, and more like a plateau tilted skyward.  It was hard to tell which was highest.

Arriving at Pass 5550. Photo looks E.

Are either of those mountains Mount Mye (6,763 ft.), SPHP?

Yes.  Not sure which one, though, Loopster.  Hang on, let me check the map … it’s the one on the L.

The big dome is Mount Mye, SPHP?

Uh-huh.  That’s it, Loop!  The other mountain must be Peak 6519.

Although it had been calm all day, a cold, gusty 10 mph E breeze sprang up almost as soon as Lupe reached Pass 5550.  Anxious to get into the tiny house ASAP, the American Dingo barked impatiently, while SPHP searched for a sufficiently soft spot to place it, then had a bit of a time getting it pitched in the wind.

Once the tiny house was up, and her red sleeping bag spread out, Lupe couldn’t wait to get inside and lie down.  She clearly had no intention of leaving it again this evening.  SPHP was forced to take a photo of Mount Mye beyond the tiny house without her.

Mount Mye (L), Peak 6519 (R) from Pass 5550. Photo looks ENE.

9-8-23, 6:10 PM, Pass 5550 SPHP crawled into the tiny house.  Time for dinner!  Beef jerky for dessert.  Lupe inhaled her share, then eyes heavy, put her head down.  A moment later she was lost in Dingo Dreamland.  The sun now chose to put in its only appearance of the day.  For 15 or 20 minutes, the tiny house glowed bright.

And then the light was gone again.  Tired, but restless, SPHP left the tiny house, and saw only a distant red glow in the W.  The E wind had been growing stronger, and now came in powerful gusts between periods of calm.  Dusk was coming on, and a light mist began to fall.

Returning to the tiny house, SPHP pulled part of the red sleeping bag over the snoozing Carolina Dog, then put on the Yukon fur trapper’s cap.  Toasty!  It was raining harder now.  Snuggling into the blue sleeping bag, SPHP listened to wind and rain, wondering if it was going to snow?

Snug in the tiny house at Pass 5550, Anvil Range, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-9-23

Links:

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Mount Mye, Anvil Range, Yukon Territory, Canada – Base Camp to the Summit! (8-9-23)

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Mount Hitchcock, British Columbia, Canada (9-3-23)

Days 42 thru 44 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

9-2-23, 8:25 AM, 54ºF – A rest and recuperation day.  Lupe was back at the ridge with the big view of Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) and the N end of Atlin Lake, enjoying a romp through her favorite woods.  Keeping an eye out for the strange, abandoned camp the Carolina Dog had discovered in these woods last year, SPHP spotted it again.  The old camp was still a terrible mess.

Parked along the S edge of the ridge, the RAV4 was fully exposed to a 20 mph SSW wind.  Lupe spent the rest of the morning inside, snoozing on her pink blanket while an endless procession of big clouds sailed by.  In the afternoon, she was more alert.  SPHP provided a Busy Rib Hide to munch on.  Every now and then, Lupe dashed out to bark at a squirrel before returning a few minutes later.  Still the wind blew!

And then rather suddenly, late in the afternoon, it completely died away.

Loopster!  How about another romp in the woods?

Of course, Lupe was all for it, but this time SPHP had an ulterior motive.  While Lupe roamed as she pleased, SPHP searched for the abandoned camp again.  Didn’t take long to find it.

Here again, SPHP?  Do you have some kind of strange fascination with this place?

In a way, yes, I do, Loop.  It’s a travesty what a mess this joint is, and in the middle of your favorite woods, too!  We’re going to clean it up.

Half a dozen tarps had evidently been used to construct a makeshift shelter with long sticks serving as the framework.  Most of these tarps were in an advanced state of disintegration.  However, finding a couple that were still in relatively decent condition, SPHP began piling as much trash on them as possible.  Plastic bottles, metal cans, an old burn barrel, sections of pipe used as a flue, the disintegrating tarps, and more.

Once that was done, SPHP organized the fallen framework poles in a neat stack.

There!  All tidied up.  What’ya think, Loop?

98% better, SPHP, if we could make all this junk on the tarps disappear.

Fully intend to, Looper.  Let’s get started!

The weather was changing.  Completely overcast now, it began to rain as Lupe followed SPHP during multiple trips lugging the junk-laden tarps to the road where the trash could be stuffed into the RAV4, then back to the abandoned camp again for more.

There was a rest area 4.5 miles S along Atlin Highway No. 7.  Removing all of the accumulated debris required several trips in the RAV4.  It was raining hard, and a couple of rest area trash bins were stuffed full by the time the project was over and done with, but the terrible mess in Lupe’s favorite woods was history.

9-3-23, 7:28 AM, 32ºF – Listening to the rain late into the night, SPHP had grown despondent over what it meant for the American Dingo’s chances of climbing a mountain today, but morning brought both another change of fortune, and an unexpected shock.  Except for a big cloud billowing up from Atlin Lake, the sky was clear!  And that wasn’t all.

New snow on the mountains, SPHP!

New snow on Mount Minto (R). Photo looks S.

Wow!  So there is, Looper.  No wonder my paws got cold last night.

SPHP got out to heat up a can of chili for breakfast.  Sure enough, last night’s rain was frozen on the RAV4.  A lovely, crisp, early September morning!  Probably going to warm up nicely.

This is going to be a great day, Loopster!

Can we go on another sniff in the woods after breakfast, SPHP?

Oh, sure!  Then it’s on to Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.)!

After breakfast, Lupe did get her favorite woods romp.  Returning to the old camp, it looked so much better than before.

Back at the abandoned camp. Photo looks SSE.

9-3-23, 10:32 AM, 42ºF – Although just a dusting, the season’s first new snow added a dramatic touch to the mountains as Lupe set out.  SPHP had parked the RAV4 0.5 km S of a sign for Pat Creek at a wide flat area across Atlin Highway No. 7 from a couple of side roads.  Since the closest side road was only 500 feet S, that’s the way the Carolina Dog went.

Snow on Black Mountain (R) from Atlin Highway No. 7. Photo looks NNE.
Starting up the S side road (R). N end of Atlin Lake (L). Photo looks N.

The side road quickly brought Lupe to a large, pancake flat gravel yard.  SPHP was a little surprised to see that the N side road led up here, too.

At the gravel yard. Photo looks WSW.

First Mount White, and now Mount Hitchcock.  Does a mountain have to have a highway maintenance gravel yard to use as a trailhead before we’ll climb it now, SPHP?

Absolutely, Sweet Puppy!  It’s our new policy.

Marvelous!  So where does the trail start, SPHP?  Just like at Mount White, I’m not seeing it.  This time we seem to be fresh out of generator sheds for it to be hidden behind, too.

No trail that I’m aware of, Loopster.

No trail?  Mountains with trails would be a better new policy, SPHP.  You’re telling me that Mount Hitchcock is going to be a total bushwhack?

Not entirely.  Once we get above bush line, it won’t be.  As far as where to start, choose any spot you like, Looper, and we’ll see how it goes.

Crossing the gravel yard, Lupe plunged SE into the trees.

After passing through a dense band of alders, the American Dingo found herself in a jungle that looked like the forest primeval.  Big spruce trees towered among moss-covered boulders and a variety of bushes.  Thick moss also carpeted the entire floor of this wilderness.

In the forest primeval. Photo looks SE.

What now, SPHP?

Beats me, Loopster.  Just start climbing, I guess.

The jungle trek was very slow going as Lupe explored her way higher through a dank forest choked with trees, bushes with long horizontal branches, and mossy boulders.  Within 15 minutes, despite not getting far at all, she reached the first of a series of small bedrock benches.  These benches ran along walls ranging from only a few to 15 feet tall.

Exploring the mossy jungle.
On one of the first benches. Photo looks E.

Most of the benches slanted down toward the S or SW, serving as useful ramps higher.  Along each ramp, Lupe had to keep looking for a way to scramble up to the next ramp above.  It usually wasn’t hard to find one.  The benches and ramps kept getting both taller and wider as Lupe kept climbing.  With so much exposed bedrock around, the forest thinned out, making travel easier.

A bench with a slant. Photo looks ESE.
On a large ramp. Photo looks N.

Scrambling among the ramps and benches was fun, rather like exploring a maze.  Some provided views of Atlin Lake.  If Mount Minto hadn’t been hidden among clouds, Lupe would have seen it, too.  Fortunately, even as the rock walls grew in size, she was always able to find a route higher.

By the time Lupe reached the end of the benches, she’d already gained hundreds of feet of elevation.  Ahead, the sun was just peeping over a much higher ridge, shining down a steep, 200 foot tall rock slide.

At the rock slide. Photo looks SE.

Gads!  Let’s avoid all this steep talus, if we can, Looper.  This next hill or ridge, or whatever it is, looks highest toward the S, so try angling NE.

After scrambling across part of the rock slide, Lupe managed to get N of it, and back into the forest.  Climbing somewhat more steeply again, she headed E, soon encountering one of the largest mushrooms growing out of a rotting stump that SPHP had ever seen.  In fact, there were several big mushrooms, all of which looked incredibly healthy.

Back in the mossy forest. Photo looks E.
By the magnificent mushrooms.
A huge specimen.

At first, the rockslide-evading maneuver seemed to work, but soon the terrain began steepening further.  Apparently Lupe was now on the S side of a deep valley.  Attempting to continue E while gradually gaining elevation, the slope kept getting steeper, repeatedly forcing the Carolina Dog higher.

You’re doing wonderful, Looper, but this traverse is getting to be next to impossible for me.  I’ve got to get above it!  Looks to me like there’s better terrain not all that much higher than where we’re at.

Whatever you like, SPHP.  Go for it!

Heh.  Easier said than done!  SPHP didn’t actually like this scramble at all.  The worst of it wasn’t all that tall, maybe a 20 or 30 foot high section spent desperately clinging to small trees, and whatever bits of bedrock were available to prevent a fall, yet SPHP made it up in one piece.  By means of some black Dingo magic SPHP never saw in operation, Lupe made it up unassisted, too.

Above the short, scary scramble, the American Dingo kept climbing in open forest on more manageable terrain, eventually reaching a rocky spot with an encouraging view.

Thar she blows, Loopster!

Is that the top of Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.), SPHP?  It’s still a long way!

Yes.  We’re just getting started, Sweet Puppy.

Top of Mount Hitchcock (Center). Photo looks SE.

The climb went on.  Another rock provided a view of Black Mountain, where last night’s snow was starting to melt away.  Finally reaching a relatively level spot with a view of the N end of Atlin Lake, both Lupe and SPHP were ready for a break.

Black Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks NNE.
Taking a break. Atlin Lake below. Photo looks NW.

As slowly as things had gone so far, the break had to be a short one.  Lupe was soon climbing SE again.  She was definitely making progress, as evidenced by the constantly improving view of Mount Hitchcock.

Making progress toward Mount Hitchcock (L of Center). Photo looks SE.
The still snowy NW face (Center). Photo looks SE.

9-3-23, 2:28 PM – Lupe was still making decent progress when she came to a local high point.  Despite the view of Mount Hitchcock being better than ever here, SPHP was immediately concerned.  A cliff was directly ahead, blocking further advance.  Peering into an 80 foot deep valley filled with yellow aspens, the drop was obviously impassable where the Carolina Dog had reached it.

Mount Hitchcock (R of Center) from the first local high point. Photo looks SE.

We’ll have to find a way around this drop, Loop.  Let’s try going S.

Sniffing her way S, Lupe steadily lost elevation, quickly coming to the best view yet of a big section of Atlin Lake.

Atlin Lake. Photo looks SW.

We can turn E here, SPHP.  We’re past the cliff.

Going E down an easily manageable slope of young yellow aspens, Lupe lost only another 40 or 50 feet of elevation before reaching a saddle full of moss.  Starting back up again after crossing it, she soon arrived at the bottom of a nearly 200 foot high cliff.

Scooching N along the base of the cliff, the American Dingo succeeded in getting beyond it, and up onto a long ridge of bedrock with a second high point near its N end.  Looking W from here, the first high point was back in sight again, only marginally lower, and not all that far away.  A terrific view of Mount Minto (6,913 ft.) was beyond it.

Crossing the mossy saddle. Photo looks SSW.
On the bedrock ridge, the second local high point. First high point (R), Mount Minto (L). Photo looks WNW.
Mount Minto (Center). Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

The fact that this bedrock ridge even had a N end was not good news.

Dang, Loop!  I was hoping this ridge would connect to something.  It’s a dead end with another cliff, and another little valley in our way!

It’s not a straight drop.  I think we can get down there, SPHP.

A quick search revealed a spot where Lupe was right.  The Carolina Dog had no problem getting down the slope.  By clinging to small trees, SPHP also managed to get down safely.  The entire descent was only around 65 feet.  At the bottom, Lupe found herself in a narrow valley full of spruce and moss.

Down in the narrow valley. Photo looks N.

Climbing E out of this valley, Lupe promptly reached a third high point.  Happily, the 65 foot descent beyond this one wasn’t steep enough to be an issue.  Coming a fourth high point, only a minor dip was beyond it.  A gradual rise now led to a flat, dripping wet forest featuring a maze of open lanes of melting snow.  No views at all here, except trees.

In the flat forest. Photo looks W.

We can make some tracks now, SPHP!

Yeah, we better, too!  I honestly had no idea how complex this terrain would be.  We’ve chewed up a lot of time, Loopster.

Do we keep heading E here, SPHP?

Yes.  We should come to a big lake, Loop.  The plan is to head E for about a km along its S shore, then turn S to a ridge that will eventually lead us up the back side of Mount Hitchcock from the E or SE.

Sure sounds like the long way around, SPHP.

It is, Loopster, but according to the topo map, it ought to be the easiest way up.

Lupe was crossing an enormous saddle between Mount Hitchcock and Black Mountain.  Continuing E, the terrain eventually sloped downhill.  The forest was even denser and wetter here, yet aided by gravity and the American Dingo’s route finding skills, progress remained quite good.

The topo map showed open ground W of the lake Lupe was heading for.  For some reason, SPHP had visions of firm, grassy terrain leading to a pebbled shore, and an open, dry forest similar to her favorite one back at the ridge with the view of Mount Minto and Atlin Lake, permitting a fun romp along the lake’s S shore.  Just get to the lake, and everything would be fine!

The gradual descent through the wet forest seemed much longer than it should have been.  When it finally came to an end, the scene ahead was not at all what SPHP had envisioned.  The open ground W of the lake turned out to be a vast region of tussocks and waist high bushes, dotted with spindly, boreal spruce.

Oh, my gosh, Loop!  It’s just a big bog!  If I had any sense, I would have known it would be.

Peak 5677 (L), Mount Hitchcock (R) from the start of the bog. Photo looks SE.
Mount Hitchcock (R of Center). Photo looks S.

Lupe persevered, splish-splashing through the tussocks and bushes all the way to the W end of the lake.  The closer she got to it, the wetter and more full of tussocks the ground became.  A well-defined shoreline was merely an illusion.  The whole region near the lake was standing water.  SPHP’s boots and socks were full of muck and completely water-logged.

The unnamed lake between Mount Hitchcock and Black Mountain. Photo looks E.
Lupe near the lake. Photo looks ENE.

Directly S, Mount Hitchcock loomed above all, so close now, yet suddenly seeming a nearly impossible objective.  It had taken 6 hours just to get this far.  SPHP stood in the swamp frozen with indecision and doubt.

We made it to the lake, SPHP!   What are you doing?

Having a mid-adventure crisis, I guess.  This really isn’t going very well.  Seems like I’ve seriously underestimated Mount Hitchcock, Loop.

Meaning what, exactly?  Are you thinking of turning back, SPHP?

I’m not far from it, Loopster.  There’s no way we’re going to slog through another km of this bog along the S shore of this lake, and then circle all the way around to come up at Mount Hitchcock from the SE.  At this rate, it will be dark before we even get there.

Too steep and too much talus to go straight up the N face, SPHP.  Want to call it, or try the NW ridge?

Plenty of talus there, too, but let’s try the NW ridge, Loopster.  It’s so much shorter than my original plan, and really doesn’t look that bad from here.

Turning SW, Lupe left the lake, heading for the deep green forest beyond the bog, the sky starting to cloud up a bit in that direction.

Heading for Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge. Photo looks SW.

This next part of the forest proved snowy and wet, with the additional charm of being full of deadfall.  One obnoxious obstacle after another!  Not terrible, but tiresome work.  Yet Lupe kept at it, finally managing to reach the lower end of Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge.  Her ascent began immediately, climbing SE amid a mix of trees, bushes, and boulders.

With snow making some of the rocks slippery, SPHP worried that Lupe might get injured due to a slip or missed jump.  She never did.  As usual, the American Dingo climbed with confidence, scrambling circles around SPHP.

Starting the ascent. Photo looks SE.
Snow made some spots slick. Photo looks SSE.

A 1,400 foot ascent soon turned into a mostly talus rock hop.  Lupe only needed a single boost from SPHP, and that was merely to save time.  She could have easily found a way around that difficult spot on her own.

The ascent wasn’t all talus.  Halfway up, Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge rose in a series of big humps, with relatively flat regions of tundra and low bushes between much steeper talus climbs.  These regions provided opportunities for short breaks to rest and admire the incredible views.

A big easy stretch between talus climbs. Photo looks SE.
Taking a break. N end of Atlin Lake (L), Black Mountain (far R). Photo looks NNW.
At the top of a lane of tundra during a steep talus climb. Photo looks SE.
Still a long way to go. Photo looks SE.

9-3-23, 7:18 PM – The sunny, comfortably warm conditions down at the lake were but a memory now.  From out of the WSW, a chill breeze was stirring, dropping the temperature fast as it spread high-floating clouds across the sky.

Although the ascent of Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge had otherwise been going smoothly, as usual SPHP had been dreadfully slow, not only due to the talus, but also due to a certain weariness setting in.  Scrambling up one talus field after another, only to have others keep appearing above, even Lupe was feeling it.

Reaching tundra again at the top of yet another hump, a glance off to the W spoke of a growing concern.  Hovering in the gray sky over by Mount Minto, the sun was no longer all that far from the horizon.

Mount Minto (L of Center) beyond Atlin Lake. Photo looks W.
N end of Atlin Lake. Mount Minto (L edge). Photo looks NW.

Sheesh!  We’re running out of time, Loopster!

I know, SPHP, but we’ll get there.  I’m feeling mighty tired, though.  Can we please take another break?

Sure, but only a short one.  How about some beef jerky, Loop?  Should give us an energy boost.

A short break, and the ascent continued.  Couldn’t be that much farther!  The swampy lake Lupe had visited began coming into view.  Going over to an edge offering a better look, the lake filled nearly the entire valley between Mount Hitchcock and Black Mountain (5,738 ft.).

Still climbing. Photo looks SE.
N end of Atlin Lake (L), Black Mountain (R). Photo looks NNW.
NE end of the lake (Center). Photo looks NE.
Nearly the entire lake. Black Mountain (L). Photo looks NNE.

Quite a view, Loop.  Still some more up to go, but it’s beginning to look like we’re actually getting somewhere.

Let’s finish it, SPHP!

Still took a while, but the talus fields were no longer as steep, making life easier.  Lupe finally reached a patch of tundra where it looked like the summit couldn’t be much higher.

Approaching the summit ridge. Photo looks SW.

Almost there, Loop.  Terrific job, Sweet Puppy!

I’m expecting great things, SPHP!

Near the NE end of Mount Hitchcock’s summit ridge. Photo looks SW.

9-3-23, 8:49 PM, 38ºF, Mount Hitchcock (5,886 ft.) – In fading light, and a chilly, 10 mph WSW breeze, Lupe stood on the highest rocks near the NE end of a rocky summit ridge.  She wasn’t quite at the true summit yet, but not far from it.  A visibly higher point was a short distance SW along the ridgeline.

After all this effort, Mount Hitchcock didn’t disappoint.  The views were spectacular!

Let’s tag the true summit, Loop, then have a look around.

The 250 foot long ridge ran NE/SW.  Reaching the apparent true summit, an even higher dark spire was now visible clear over at the far SW end.

Take a picture, SPHP!  We’re at the natural true summit.  That spire is just a cairn.

At Mount Hitchcock’s true summit. Photo looks SW.

Although the views were incredible from any point along the summit ridge, the completely unexpected 6 or 7 foot tall cairn at the SW end was clearly sitting at Mount Hitchcock’s premier viewpoint.  That was the place to be!

Atlin Lake from the cairn. Photo looks SSW.

Upon arriving at the cairn, desperately tired, Lupe promptly laid down.

Resting by the cairn. Mount Minto (R). Photo looks W.

Congratulations, Loopster!  May I shake your paw?  Mount Hitchcock!  I can scarcely believe we’re here.  Never dreamed it would take us so long.

Lupe shook paws with SPHP.

A chocolate coconut bar would sure help about now, SPHP.

In a few minutes, Looper.  Let’s get some photos while we’ve still got light.

Due N, over at Black Mountain (5,738 ft.), last night’s snow appeared to have entirely melted away.  Nearly 1,900 feet below, only the swampy W end of the lake N of Mount Hitchcock was visible from the cairn.

Black Mountain (L). Mount Hitchcock’s true summit (R). Photo looks NE.

Peak 5677, Mount Hitchcock’s somewhat lower twin, was 2 km due E.  Lowlands and mostly smaller mountains were beyond it.  Looking SE, Mount Carter (5,827 ft.) stood out well beyond the ridge connecting Peak 5677 and Mount Hitchcock.

Peak 5677 (R). Photo looks ENE.
Ridge connecting Peak 5677 and Mount Hitchcock (Center) in foreground, with Mount Carter (Center) beyond. Photo looks SE.

The most indisputably stupendous views of all, though, were of Atlin Lake and the mountains around it.  Incredibly long, Atlin Lake stretched from Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.) and Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) to the S, all the way to it’s N end well beyond Black Mountain.  The S end of Little Atlin Lake, and Mount White (5,016 ft.), which Lupe had been to only 2 days ago, were in sight even farther N.

Atlin Lake from Mount Hitchcock. Photo looks SSW.
Atlin Lake (L), Little Atlin Lake (Center), Black Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Mount Minto (R of Center). Photo looks W.

Lupe was thrilled when SPHP finally sat down facing E, away from the cold wind.  After sharing the promised chocolate coconut bar, a Cliff cool mint bar, and beef jerky, she immediately curled up on SPHP’s lap and closed her eyes.  Already wearing all layers brought along, SPHP hugged the weary Carolina Dog to warm her up while gazing out at the world from Mount Hitchcock.

Despite the tremendous views, SPHP’s thoughts were troubled.  It had taken an insane amount of time to get here, more than 10 hours!  Night was coming on.  Soon darkness would envelope this wild, remote land.  The WSW wind felt cold, and was clearly driving darker clouds this way.  Snowed last night.  The temperature was plunging up here.  Maybe it would snow again?  Rain might be even worse!  Other than SPHP’s boots, Lupe and SPHP had both dried out in the breeze on the way up Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge.  Getting soaking wet again now that it was cold would be awful.  SPHP at least had the red rain jacket, but Lupe had no protection at all …

Lupe!  Poor Lupe!  She was so tired, had been so valiant, and had earned a long rest.  Feeling incredibly cruel, a mere 20 minutes after arriving on Mount Hitchcock, SPHP woke the exhausted American Dingo up.

Loopster!  We’ve got to get out of here!

SPHP, I feel like I just closed my eyes!  Is summit hour over already?  How can it be?

I’m so sorry, Looper.  Your summit hour isn’t anywhere close to over yet, but we can’t stay.  We’ve overdone it.  It’s all my fault, but we have to go.

Lupe stood there in shocked disbelief after being pushed off SPHP’s lap.  Go, yes!  But go where?  SPHP had a look down Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge, back the way Lupe had come up.

Mount Hitchcock’s NW ridge (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Didn’t look bad at all.  SPHP considered.  Yeah, and what about doing it all again in the dark while exhausted?  That long talus descent, the wet forest full of deadfall, the mucky march through the bog, another dark forest, those crazy steep-sided minor high points separated by valleys, that scary little scramble, finding a way through the benches and ramps, down to the boulders and primeval forest.

Oh, Loop!  What have I gotten us into?  Let’s have a look S.  Maybe we can go down the SW face?

Mount Hitchcock’s S ridge (foreground). Photo looks S.

I don’t know, Looper.  Can’t really see the SW face from here, but this looks better to me.

There’s a big flat area that must be tundra where the ridge starts turning toward Peak 5677, SPHP.  Doesn’t look hard to get that far.  You’re the one with the map.  What does it say from there?

Hard to know, Loopster.  Might be a SW ridge we can follow?  May be fine, then again, maybe not.  In truth, once we start heading down from that flat spot you’ve pointed out, the map doesn’t look a whole lot different than the way we came up.

Light was fading fast.  Like it, or not, decision time!

S, my dearest, most faithful friend!  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

9-3-23, 9:53 PM – The S slope went very well.  Now down at the broad saddle where the ridge to Peak 5677 began curling E, Lupe stood in deepening twilight as a harvest moon rose beyond her.

Down at the saddle. Peak 5677 (R). Photo looks ENE.

So far, so good, Loop.  Let’s have a look at the SW face.

Heading over to the rounded SW side of the saddle, the news was good.  Mostly tundra with some rocks mixed in, a huge, uniformly steep slope dropped many hundreds of feet into the gloom.  A yawning black region lurked far below, well beyond the point where any detail could be seen.

That must be the forest, SPHP.

Yup.  Well, this first part will be easy enough.  Let’s lose as much elevation as we can, as fast as we can, Looper.

Little flashlight and poles in paw, SPHP, started down the slope, Lupe roaming at will.  Another 500 feet of elevation was quickly and easily lost, putting the Carolina Dog 750 feet below Mount Hitchcock’s summit.  A promising start, but midnight found her on rock slides, or thrashing lost among dense bushes chest high on SPHP, miserable due to lack of sleep, and continually begging SPHP to stop.

9-4-23, the wee hours – Weary as well, SPHP did stop, quite often, but never for long.  Feeding Lupe the rest of her Taste of the Wild, then bits of beef jerky to keep her energy level up, the downward plunge always resumed within a few minutes.  Even this late, a faint light was always in the N, just enough to reveal what looked like rain to the S.  Every now and then, SPHP felt a little mist.

Could have stopped longer to let Lupe rest, but fear of the weather, and a general sense that it was better to keep moving, no matter how slowly, to stay warm kept SPHP pressing on.  No doubt hoping her continued good behavior would eventually earn her mercy and respite, the Carolina Dog was a real trooper whenever on the move, which was 90% of the time.

In the dark, on the steep slopes, SPHP’s progress was dismal, ghastly.  Even with the little flashlight, there was no way to tell which way to go.  Appearances were deceiving, and the dizzying black void was always threatening to cliff Lupe out.  Endless bushes made it impossible to see the ground.  Trying to handle the flashlight while clinging to bushes, and probing each step ahead for something solid with poles that often struck only air despite being extended to maximum length, was slow work.

Leaving Mount Hitchcock’s summit, SPHP had started a point to point descent GPS track.  Rarely consulting it, because the iPhone’s battery was nearly shot, results were always almost unbelievably disappointing.  An hour gone by, and only 100 feet lower!  Despite continual effort, SPHP was barely creeping cautiously down the mountain.

Fortunately, Lupe came to no cliffs.  No rock formations to negotiate.  The slope was very steep, but uniform.  Step by step, clinging to bushes that the poles kept getting caught in, fearful of dropping and losing the flashlight, SPHP inched continually lower, Lupe lost down in the jungle right behind.

9-4-23 – At 6:00 AM, the sky seemed a little lighter.  By 7:30 AM, SPHP was able to put away the flashlight.  Lupe was still at 4,250 feet.  Able to see what was ahead now, and better able to use the poles and latch onto bushes for support, SPHP’s speed improved tremendously.  Lupe was nearly down to the forest now, and soon in it.

Unfortunately, reaching the forest did not help the American Dingo’s cause much.  The steep descent continued.  Repeatedly trying to follow drainages lower, they were choked with alders with long, horizontal branches.  Lupe needed to stay in the spruce forest, or at least along its edge, in order to get anywhere.

The steepness of the slope gradually abated.  Lupe began coming to flat spots where the spruce forest was fairly open, permitting rapid surges ahead.  However, they always seemed to lead to another alder-choked drainage.  SPHP was standing on a thick, horizontal alder branch in one of these drainages, when the unexpected occurred.

Ow!  Dang!  Dang!  Ow!

SPHP!  Are you alright?  What happened?

Ow!  I’ve been better.  Dang it all, Loopster!  That branch I was standing on snapped, and I fell.

Are you hurt bad, SPHP?  Is anything broken?

No, but somehow that branch delivered a heck of a blow to my L shin when it gave way, Looper.  Nothing’s broken, though, just bruised.

Are you sure, SPHP?

Yeah, I’m sure.  If I had a broken leg, I wouldn’t be able to stand.  Ow!  Dang!  Give me a moment, Loopster, and we’ll keep going.

SPHP’s L shin throbbing with pain, the journey resumed.  Heading SW through another relatively flat spruce forest, Lupe was still at nearly 4,000 feet when she came to the bedrock benches.  From the edge of the first one, the Carolina Dog peered down on a very steep descent.

Wow.  I don’t know, SPHP.  The rock walls between these benches are a lot taller than where we came up.

Not many ramps visible, either, Loop.

Might as well try it, but initial impressions were correct.  Lupe got only 50 feet lower before cliffing out.  A sheer drop ran all along the bench she was on.  No even remotely feasible way down to the bench below.  It was another crushing blow.  Still nearly 1,000 feet lower, Atlin Highway No. 7 was only a little over a km away.

Doesn’t matter how close we are to the highway, Looper.  We can’t get to it from here.

Back up then, SPHP?

Yup.  No other choice.

Regaining the lost 50 feet, SPHP checked the map.  If Lupe was truly stuck here, it would be devastating.  The thought of going back up and over Mount Hitchcock again was beyond the pale.

There’s a big valley S of here that goes W to the highway, Loop.  Let’s see if we can get down to it.

Turning SE, Lupe made excellent time through a flat, open forest, soon coming to a small, mostly dried-up, swamp.  Circling around the muck, within minutes she reached the edge of a long, steep slope of spruce and yellow aspens.  No benches, ramps, or rock formations.

Looks doable, SPHP!

9-4-23, 11:36 AM – More than 25 hours after setting out from the RAV4, Lupe was snoozing on the forest floor.  Unnoticed, a few yellow leaves fell on her whenever a momentary light breeze disturbed the aspens.  Still at 3,100 feet, and 2 km from Atlin Highway No. 7, SPHP had called a halt here, finally convinced that getting to the highway was now merely a matter of time.

In Dingo Dreamland, at last!

Barefoot, SPHP pulled up a pant leg.  Scraped up a bit, a giant knot was already forming on the throbbing L shin, but nothing to be done about it.  At times munching on trail mix, SPHP laid watching Lupe as leaves fluttered down.  Two birds came by, other than that, just gnats and a few spiders.  Fearing abandonment, the only times Lupe opened her eyes were when SPHP shifted position.

Oh, Lupe!  I’ll never abandon you.  Don’t you know that?  We’ve been through so much together.  It’s all turned out fine again.  How lucky we are to be here in this beautiful, remote place.

This special moment near the end of both triumph and ordeal, in a quiet place never to be seen again, went on for an hour and a half.

Still quite a march back to Atlin Highway No. 7, losing hundreds of feet of elevation along the way.  Turning W as soon as the terrain allowed, Lupe came to a big expanse of level forest, crossed it, and eventually reached a faint road.  SPHP first thought this primitive road might be part of the old Telegraph Trail, but it wasn’t.  The road continued down and down, finally dumping Lupe out at Atlin Highway No. 7, more than 3 miles S of the RAV4.

Lupe was very happy during the hike N along the highway, leading the way, confident that the RAV4 couldn’t be much farther.  Heading for the ditches whenever traffic appeared, it was uphill nearly all the way, the only significant downhill stretch, the last 500 feet down to the faithfully waiting bright blue RAV4.

9-4-23, 3:50 PM, 57ºF – Unsurprisingly, the American Dingo leapt in, curled up on her pink blanket, and closed her eyes the moment SPHP opened the door.  29 hours and 18 minutes!  Mount Hitchcock was a new personal record for a day hike.  Oh, what a day it had been!

On Mount Hitchcock, British Columbia, Canada 9-3-23
Lupe’s GPS Track (Ascent)

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Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track (Ascent) & Ascent Statistics

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