Abercrombie Mountain, Selkirk Mountains, Washington (8-11-21)

Day 6 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

9:42 AM, Hwy 508, far NW Montana

Hey, Loop!  Yaak Falls is coming up!  Any interest in sniffing the air, and having a peek at it?

Sure, SPHP!  Let’s do it!

And why not?  This was probably going to be just a rest and positioning day, anyway.  Bit of a drive to Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) in NE Washington from here.  With the sky looking as smoky as it was this morning, didn’t look like Lupe needed to be in any big rush to get there.

Yaak Falls was practically right along the highway.  SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout, and Lupe sniffed her way over to the river for a look at the falls.  Drought conditions appeared to have the Yaak River running very low, even for August.

The Yaak River on a smoky August morning. Photo looks N.
Yaak Falls.
A better angle.

Very nice, SPHP!   Bet Yaak Falls is a lot more impressive in the spring, though.

Heh.  Doesn’t seem to be much doubt about that, does there?  Probably many times the flow we see here today.

Yaak Falls was the last stop in Montana.  The American Dingo was soon cruising in air-conditioned comfort through the Idaho panhandle.  An otherwise scenic drive was marred by the discouraging amount of smoke in the air.  Loopster might have to skip Abercrombie Mountain entirely.

The drive W was mighty inefficient, since the highways kept making big swings N and S.  By the time Lupe was in NE Washington, she was ready for another waterfall.  SPHP stopped at Crystal Falls on the Little Pend Oreille River, but only a rather restricted view of it was available.

Crystal Falls.

Entering Colville from the E on Hwy 20, SPHP spotted Aladdin Road on the R.  That was the way to the W approach to Abercrombie Mountain, which was still many miles NNE.  A quick stop for supplies in Colville, and Lupe was on her way!  Road construction close to town caused a few delays, but eventually the RAV4 was bouncing along USFS Road No. 300, which was soft, and a bit rough, after having been recently churned up while graded.

Glad we’ve got the RAV4, Loop!  Not sure the trusty old G6 would have made it!

Oh, ye of little faith!  Don’t be dissing the G6 now, SPHP!  Got us to the Arctic Ocean twice, and Alaska 4 times!  The G6 could have done this.

Come on, Looper!  You know I would never disparage the G6!  Even so, a little better clearance sure improves confidence.

Still quite narrow, but No. 300 had improved a great deal by the time a very encouraging sign appeared.  Abercrombie trailhead!  Right around the next bend, No. 300 dead-ended at a small, vacant parking area.

Hah!  Made it!  You’re golden now, Loopster!

The sign of success!
Parked at the Abercrombie trailhead.

3:48 PM, 79ºF, Abercrombie trailhead –  Plenty warm out, but definitely cooler up here at the trailhead than it had been during the drive through Idaho into Washington.  Overhead, despite some smoky haziness, the cloudless sky looked surprisingly blue.

What do you think, Looper?  I’d been expecting on the way over that it was going to be too smoky to climb Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) today, and that we’d just have to hope for the best in the morning.  Really doesn’t look all that bad right now, though.  Want to try it?

Do we have time, SPHP?  How far is it?

Less than 4 miles one way, I believe. Under 2,400 feet of elevation gain, with what’s supposed to be a decent trail all the way.

Shoot, we can do that, SPHP!  Why wait and take a chance on what the smoke will be like tomorrow?  Should cool off some more as the sun sinks, too.  Might be a pretty pleasant evening on Abercrombie Mountain!

For better or worse, Abercrombie Mountain was a go!  A wooden box next to the start of Trail No. 117 contained registration forms, but they were all old and already used.

Guess we can skip this step, Loop.  Doesn’t look like anyone cares.

American Dingoes don’t care for paperwork, that was for sure.  Not their strong suit, nor SPHP’s for that matter, either.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Start of Trail No. 117 to Abercrombie Mountain.

Trail No. 117 was good – smooth and easy to follow, with few rocks or roots.  Lupe trotted gradually higher on a series of long switchbacks that snaked through a jungley forest full of ferns and big-leafed plants.  10 minutes from the trailhead, she got a drink from a small stream.

On the easy path higher.
Crossing the shallow stream.

This same stream crossed the trail a couple more times higher up.  Last time Loop came to it, the stream was reduced to a mere mossy trickle.  The switchbacks went on and on, steepening and getting tighter as they worked up the side of a big ridge.  Nothing to see, really.  Dense forest hid whatever views there might have been.

Amid the ferny jungle.
By the mossy remnant of the stream.

Definitely a tougher climb toward the end, but Trail No. 117 never did get all that steep before finally starting to level out up on the big ridge.  Lupe had gained more than 800 feet of elevation by now, at least a third of what she needed to do.  No ferns or big-leafed plants up here, but the forest was otherwise unchanged.

Heading S across the ridge at a saddle just E of HP5985, Loop came to a 3-way intersection.  An old sign was only partially legible.  Trail No. 119 came up from the North Fork of Silver Creek here, a starting point to the SW nearly 2,000 feet lower than the Abercrombie trailhead.

At the junction with Trail No. 119. Photo looks S.

How about a short break, Looper?  Want to split a chocolate coconut bar?

Panting while laying in the shade, the Carolina Dog showed no interest in the chocolate coconut bar.  SPHP ate the whole thing.  How often did that happen?

Are you OK, Loop?  You aren’t getting sick, are you?

I’m fine.  Just hot, that’s all, SPHP.

Well, here.  Have some water, then.

Sticking with Trail No. 117, Lupe left the junction going ENE.  A mere 50 feet brought her to a tree bearing a marker.

By the tree with the trail marker. Photo looks ENE.

Hey!  Guess what, Loop?  This is a PNT marker!

We’re on the Pacific Northwest Trail again, SPHP?  We could have taken the PNT all the way from Northwest Peak to Abercrombie Mountain?

Heh.  Yeah, if we weren’t interested in doing much of anything else on this Dingo Vacation.  Probably could have been here by September!

The trail was almost flat.  Lupe gained only a little elevation as it curved around the N side of a minor hill along the ridgeline.  Once beyond the hill, No. 117 swung S, dipping 20 feet down into a ravine before starting up again.

Heading down into the ravine. Photo looks S.

Climbing steadily now, No. 117 began switchbacking higher with long runs SE interrupted by shorter ones N.  Soon the trail seemed sunnier.

The forest is thinning out, SPHP!  Maybe we’re finally going to get to see something?

Getting sunnier as the trail climbs more steeply. Photo looks SSE.

Sure enough!  At the end of one of the first long runs SE, Lupe reached a meadow.  There was a big view to the S.

Not good.

A lot smokier now. Photo looks S.

Gone were the blue skies that had prevailed when the American Dingo set out from the trailhead.  A smokey haze, brought in by a breeze that had sprung up, filled the air.  Still sort of blue to the E, but the air quality was much worse, an opaque white, off to the W where the breeze was coming from.

Criminitly, Loop!  We better pick up the pace, or we aren’t going to be able to see a thing from Abercrombie Mountain!

Trail No. 117 turned N back into the forest.  More switchbacks.  Same pattern.  Long runs SE interspersed with shorter ones N.  The hillside steepened, but the trail wasn’t bad at all.  The forest continued to thin.  All views told the same story.  Better keep at it, if Lupe hoped to have any possibility of a view from the top.

Heading SE.
Going N.

The switchbacks ended shortly before reaching Abercrombie Mountain’s S ridge.  The broad, rounded ridge sported only scattered stands of live forest.  Gnarled skeleton trees, bleached white by the sun, stood forlorn and alone whispering of days long past, dead companions collapsed here and there about them.

Too late!  Air quality was getting worse.  Blasted breeze!  Why couldn’t it have held off for an hour or two?  Would have made all the difference.

Finally up on the S ridge. HP6631 (R). Photo looks S.

0.5 mile away and 600 feet higher, the summit was now visible almost due N.  Hurrying on, Trail No. 117 dipped over to the E side of the ridge before heading straight for it.

Abercrombie Mountain summit (Center). Photo looks N.

Up the rest of the way, a relatively easy trudge higher as mountains go.  Naturally, it got steeper toward the end.  Lupe roamed the meadows at will, enjoying this landscape with it’s mixture of trees and open ground.

An easy trudge higher. Summit (Center). Photo looks N.
Making progress. Photo looks NNW.

Lupe was already very high, getting close to the end, when Trail No. 117 went right past an incredibly gnarled Ent at the base of a hill where the mountain finally became rocky.  Immediately beyond this first hill was a larger and even rockier one.

Near the Ent (L) guarding access to the summit region. Photo looks N.
On the rocky path to the summit plateau. Photo looks N.

At the top of the second hill, Lupe reached the S end of a summit plateau that sloped higher to the N.  Somewhat surprisingly, the plateau wasn’t all rock, but featured grassy areas and even a few stunted trees.  As Loop headed for the summit at the N end, she passed assorted human-made rock walls, remnants of the foundation of a now absent lookout, and even a Dingo fort.

Sweet!  Hang on, SPHP.  Gotta check out this fort!

On the summit plateau. Dingo fort (L)! Photo looks N.
Checking out Fort Dingo.
Approaching the old fire lookout foundation. Photo looks N.

6:35 PM, 63ºF, Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) – Maybe should have waited until tomorrow, after all?  Visibility was poor when Lupe reached the true summit at the N end of Abercrombie’s summit plateau.  An hour earlier that might not have been the case.  Disappointing.

In the odd, diffused light of a sun soon sinking into the murk, Lupe stood on what appeared to be Abercrombie Mountain’s natural highpoint.  Hard to say if these rocks really were undisturbed, or not.  The highest rocks on the mountain were part of an artificially created rock wall.  Perhaps this mound had been rearranged, too?

Nearby, a brass survey benchmark was fastened to the top of a chunk of concrete.  Several rocks were stacked on top of a green metal box.

At the apparent true summit of Abercrombie Mountain. Photo looks ENE.
The battered brass survey benchmark.

Visibility wasn’t totally obscured.  Outlines of mountains and ridges could be seen through the haze.  Hooknose Mountain (7,210 ft.) 3 miles NE was about it, though, as far as being able to see any detail.  The W breeze was bringing even worse smoke this way, so even these views might vanish.  After a few quick photos in case that happened, SPHP opened the green box.

Hooknose Mountain (Center). Photo looks NE.
Abercrombie’s summit plateau from the true summit. Photo looks SSW.
Another look at Hooknose Mountain showing more of the territory leading to it. Photo looks NE.

Mostly trash inside.  Only one decent registry, a small one with a green cover that had been started in 2020.  It was already full of entries.  No room to add Lupe’s name.  A much larger registry was all chewed up by animals to the point where it was basically worthless.  SPHP shoved it into a sack along with rotten candy, sopping wet playing and business cards, empty plastic bottles, etc. for disposal later on, leaving only the green registry, pens, and pencils in a zip lock bag.

Mind if we take a break, SPHP?

Retreating back down to some stunted conifers along the W edge of the summit plateau, Lupe found a place with some greenery to relax.

Going to take it easy for a bit. Summit (R) beyond Lupe. Photo looks ENE.
Old lookout foundation (L). Back side of Fort Dingo (Center). Photo looks SSW.

Facing W toward HP6014, Loop and SPHP hung out together for a while watching the sun sink as horrid, thick smoke drifted in out of the NW.

HP6014 (L of Center) in the haze. Photo looks W.

Not even going to be any sunset, is there, SPHP?

Naw.  Too smoky!  At some point the sun will just vanish in the murk.

Are we still close to Canada?

Yup!  We should have been able to see Canada again from up here.  It’s less than 6 miles N.  Not going to happen tonight, though, Looper.

Being on Abercrombie Mountain, a super prominent peak with more than 5,000 feet of prominence, was still pretty cool, even if the views were basically shot.  Not too many supers around!  Intent upon staying up here for her traditional full summit hour, Lupe had time enough for another tour of the true summit region.  Might as well!

Near the true summit again. Photo looks N.
Looking SE. Survey benchmark (lower L).
By a cairn along the N edge. Photo looks W.
Hooknose Mountain (Center) again. Photo looks NE.

Well, getting to be about that time.  Rooting for a sunset, but knowing it wasn’t going to happen, Lupe and SPHP watched the golden orb turn red as it sank into the smoke.  Didn’t even get close to the horizon before, suddenly, it was gone.

Sunset, sort of, from Abercrombie Mountain.

A few minutes later, the Carolina Dog was gone, too.  With a great trail to follow, the descent was fun and went fast.

Starting down. Photo looks S.
By the ancient Ent again. Photo looks S.

Dusk came on even faster.  SPHP was forced to bring out the flashlight well before Loop made it back to the junction with Trail No. 119.  Soon there was movement in the gloom of the forest floor next to the trail.  Lupe got her first sniff ever of a big, fat mountain toad.

Mountain toad?  Even SPHP had never heard of such a thing!  But there it was, a real, live, ugly mountain toad hopping along in the underbrush.  Turned out it wasn’t the only one on Abercrombie Mountain, either.  Kind of creepy in the dark, but hardly dangerous.  (End, 9:18 PM, 65ºF)

You’ve got to be kidding me, right SPHP?  That’s it?  “Mountain toads – hardly dangerous.”  That’s how you’re going to end our tale of adventure about Abercrombie Mountain, a super prominent peak?

Well, what do you expect me to say, Loop?  Mountain toads seem unusual enough to deserve mention, but beyond that, they give me writer’s block.

Oh, I don’t know, SPHP, but snazz it up a bit!  How about something about the Attack of the Killer Mountain Toads!

Attack of the Killer Mountain Toads?  No one’s going to believe that, Looper!

Use your imagination, then, SPHP!  This is Washington state, right?  I know!  How about an amusing or scary tale about Big Wart!

Big Wart!  You mean like Big Foot, only, umm …

Yes!  Wartier!

Wartier!  That’s not even a word, Loopster.  I’m calling it.  Scintillating end or not, it’s just plain old, never-even-heard-of them-before mountain toads, and this is a wrap.

On Abercrombie Mountain, Selkirk Mountains, Washington 8-11-21

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GPS track by Scott Rice (7-7-18)

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Northwest Peak, Purcell Mountains, Montana (8-10-21)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Wee hours, Purcell Mountains – A gentle paw woke SPHP up.  Again?  Yes, again.  Lupe wanted out.  Although still weary from yesterday’s ascent of Robinson Mountain, this time SPHP joined her.  Must still be cloudy.  The night was quiet and infinitely black, as SPHP directed the faint beam of the little flashlight.  Meanwhile, the restless Carolina Dog sniffed her way both up and down USFS Road No. 7205.

7:52 AM, 54ºF – After being woken up half a dozen times during the night, small wonder that it was practically 8:00 AM when SPHP finally turned the key causing the RAV4 to spring to life.  Sad to be leaving this place, but time waits for no Dingo!  Funny how quickly one can become attached to a previously unknown spot.  Pink Paradise was only a short hike away!  Already, the Carolina Dog was leaving it behind.

Upon reaching USFS Road No. 92, SPHP turned W.  Paved, but stripeless and narrow, the road wound higher mile after mile before a similar long steady descent began to the Yaak River.  After crossing the river, Lupe had a blast barking at deer congregating in a region of homes on small acreages that SPHP mistook for the town of Yaak.

Confusion reigned.  An hour got wasted driving back and forth due to poor signage and the absence of a decent map, but the Yaak Mercantile Store finally appeared, and from there it was only 3 miles W on No. 508 to a R turn N onto USFS Road No. 338.  After that, the rest was easy.

12:22 PM, 60ºF, USFS Road No. 338 – Already afternoon by the time Lupe reached the Northwest Peak trailhead, but that was alright.  A new sign said it was only 2.3 miles to the lookout.  Despite having been awake half the night, the American Dingo was rarin’ to go!  Crossing the road, Lupe passed a few white boulders as Trail No. 169 curved up into the forest.

Miss Perky ready to set off for Northwest Peak. Photo looks NW.
Start of Trail No. 169.

Heading S, a short climb led to an old roadbed which the trail followed W for a little way.  Leaving the roadbed behind, a couple of sharp curves brought the Carolina Dog up onto a broad ridge.

The forest had burned.  Although there wasn’t as much here as at Pink Paradise on the way to Robinson Mountain yesterday, fireweed added splashes of pink to the scene.

Following the old roadbed. Photo looks W.
On the broad, burnt ridge. Photo looks W.

At first, the ridge was flat, but soon Trail No. 169 started climbing at an easy pace.  The trail headed W near the S edge of the ridge then veered N.  Almost as soon as Lupe made it over to the N side of the ridge, the trail doubled back to the SW.

Getting close to the N side of the ridge. Photo looks N.

Soon Loopster was back along the S side of the ridge again.  No. 169 now ran WNW, staying well below the ridgeline.  Northwest Peak (7,705 ft.) was already in sight ahead.

Northwest Peak (Center). Photo looks WNW.

S of HP7326, the trail passed along the lower edge of a boulder field.  Once beyond the boulders, it wasn’t much farther to the end of the burnt forest.  Happy to have the shade of live trees, Lupe soon insisted upon taking a little break.  Water and a chocolate coconut bar got shared.  SPHP enjoyed a Mott’s blueberry applesauce, too.

Below the boulder field. Photo looks NW.
In the live forest. Photo looks WNW.
Taking a shady break.

Continuing on, the rate of climb gradually increased.  No. 169 went NW, eventually leading to more talus.  By then, Loop was already almost as high as HP7326, which was now visible back to the E.

Setting off again. Photo looks WNW.
Encountering the next field of talus. Photo looks WNW.
HP7326 (Center). Photo looks E.

As the American Dingo kept climbing, the forest thinned.  Trail No. 169 wound through increasing amounts of rock.  Occasional cairns helped mark the route.

Among the rocks. Photo looks W.
On a grassy stretch. Photo looks WNW.
Getting higher! Marmot Mountain (6,921 ft.) (Center), HP7326 (R). Photo looks ENE.

Couldn’t be much farther!  Near the end, the trail steepened and began trending SW.  Few trees remained, until there were none at all.  Nothing but talus the rest of the way.

Getting steeper. Photo looks SW.
Despite all the rock, Trail No. 169 remained easy to follow. Photo looks SW.
Close to the top. Photo looks WSW.

Hardly any rock-hopping required!  Good trail the entire way.  Lupe was heading SW, when a lookout and a tall cairn came into view.

Approaching the summit. Photo looks SW.

2:31 PM, 50ºF, Northwest Peak (7,705 ft.) – Next to a huge cairn, Lupe stood squinting into the sun, not really caring for the unexpected gusty 20 mph wind sweeping over the mountain.  Hadn’t even been breezy on the way up!  Tall as the cairn was, it could easily have been much larger.

Enough rock up here to build a pyramid, SPHP!

No doubt, but forget that!  Building pyramids is a lot of work.  Someone must have had an awful lot of time on their paws just to build that cairn.

By the cairn. Photo looks NE.

Northwest Peak’s summit plateau was a sea of talus.  Not a tree, bush, or even a blade of grass, anywhere.  The gigantic cairn was more than 100 feet NNE of the lookout cabin, which sat up at the true summit near the S end of the plateau.  A flagless flagpole stood just S of the lookout, with a second, much smaller cairn nearby.

Definitely break time again, but with all the rock, there was nowhere comfy for the Carolina Dog to curl up.

Let’s check out the lookout cabin, SPHP!  Maybe it’s unlocked like the one on Robinson Mountain (7,321 ft.)?

You just want to get out of the wind, don’t you!

It’s the sensible thing to do, SPHP!

Heading over to the lookout cabin. Photo looks SSW.
By the flagpole. Photo looks ENE.

The door wasn’t locked.  Lupe went right in.  The lookout here was about the same size as the one on Robinson Mountain, but cleaner and better furnished.  Almost everything was painted green.  3 wooden beds were next to the walls.  In the middle of the room stood a tall table.  A deck of cards was on it.

Sitting together on the bed closest to the door, SPHP shook Looper’s paw, congratulating her on her successful ascent of Northwest Peak.  This feat, plus escaping the wind, was celebrated with the disappearance of the last chocolate coconut bar.

All the windows were closed, just like at Robinson Mountain.  In addition to the beds and table, there were two desks and a bench.  A clear plastic bin with a blue cover was resting on one of the desks.  Unsnapping the cover revealed a nicely folded American Flag plus instructions on how to fold it.  There was also a registry.

In the snug lookout cabin.

After entering Lupe’s name, SPHP read some of the other entries.

Anything interesting, SPHP?

Seems that most of these entries are by people hiking the PNT, Looper.  Apparently Northwest Peak is part of it.

The PNT?  What’s that?

The Pacific Northwest Trail.  1,200 miles long running E/W through Montana, Idaho, and Washington.  Guess we should have brought the sleeping bags, Loopster!  Quite a few people spend the night here.

Oh, that would have been fun!

After a bit, it was time to have a look at the views.  Venturing outside again to brave the wind, Lupe first had a look S.  The air was kind of hazy with smoke from distant forest fires, but it wasn’t too bad.  From Northwest Peak, a long ridge extended S to Davis Mountain (7,583 ft.), then W over to Canuck Peak (6,934 ft.).

Apparently, that was the way the PNT went.

Out in the wind again. Photo looks NE.
Northwest Peak’s S Ridge. Davis Mountain (L), Canuck Peak (L of Center). Photo looks SW.
Davis Mountain (L) and Canuck Peak (R) with help from the telephoto lens.

NW of the lookout cabin an outhouse sat not too far from the mountain’s W edge.  Lupe went that way next.  Burke Benchmark (7,461 ft.) was in sight beyond the outhouse, and past it, fabled, forbidden Canada, dimly seen through the smoke.  American Mountain (6,591 ft.) was 3 miles W.

Burke Benchmark (Center). Photo looks N.
American Mountain (R of Center) is the long ridge at mid-range. Photo looks W.

Returning to the lookout cabin, shelter was again sought from the wind.  After spending a little more time perusing the registry, SPHP broke out the deck of cards that was sitting on the table.

While you take it easy, Loop, think I’m going to play a little solitaire.  Soon as I win a game, we’ll head out!  How does that sound?

Fine with me, SPHP!  I like this cabin.  Really a shame you didn’t bring the sleeping bags!

I know it.  Wish I had.

Time passed.  SPHP played several games before putting the cards away.

Finally won one, SPHP?

Let’s just say it’s a good thing we stick to climbing mountains.  There’s a reason you’ve never been to Vegas, Looper.

You lost every game?

0-4, if you must know.  I’ve lost interest in it.  Odd, I know.  C’mon, let’s see if we can get a glimpse of the Hawkins Lakes before we go!

Rather reluctantly, the Carolina Dog left the nifty lookout cabin for the last time.  Heading N along the summit plateau, it was slow going on all the talus as Lupe gradually lost elevation.  The Hawkins Lakes did not come into view, and it began to look like Loop might have to go quite a bit farther before they might.

Eh.  Too windy!  Losing interest in this project, too, Loopster.  Maybe we ought to just head back to the trail?

Leaving the lookout cabin for the last time. Photo looks SW.
About as far N as Lupe got. Burke Benchmark (Center). Photo looks N.
Looking S toward the summit.

The American Dingo had no objection.  Returning to the tall cairn and the region near the lookout cabin, she gazed for the final time from the top of windy Northwest Peak upon HP7326 and the long ridge she was about to head back down.

Marmot Mountain (far L), HP7326 (L), and the ridge Trail No. 169 comes up (R). Photo looks E.

Relief from the wind came almost immediately after leaving the summit plateau.  With a good trail that wasn’t all that steep, the return was fun.  Leading the way, Lupe trotted happily along, sniffing and exploring both on and off trail at will.  Before long it was time for that last glance back at Northwest Peak.

On the way back. Northwest Peak (L). Photo looks WNW.

Oh, things that might have been!  It could have been done!  Lupe made it back to the RAV4 with hours of daylight left.  The Carolina Dog still might have spent this night listening to the wind moan in the lookout cabin, but she never did persuade SPHP to grab those sleeping bags and head back up to lonely, remote Northwest Peak (7,705 ft)(5:19 PM, 65ºF)

Northwest Peak, Purcell Mountains, Montana 8-10-21

Links:

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GPS track by Greg Slayden (8-16-16)

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