Winchester Mountain, Cascade Range, Washington (8-16-21)

Days 7 – 11 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

8-12-21, 6:45 AM, 59ºF, NE Washington – Bluer skies!  Perhaps a shame Lupe had climbed Abercrombie Mountain (7,308 ft.) yesterday?

Eh, maybe not.  By the time the RAV4 made it out of the forest and back to Hwy 9435, it was apparent that there was still a lot of smoke around.

Not looking very good, SPHP!  What are we going to do?

We’ll just stick with the plan, Looper.  Keep driving W until we either find blue skies again, or run out of continent.

Running out of continent seemed a distinct possibility.  From Colville, SPHP drove W on Hwy 20.  Hour after hour went by.  Lupe barked at cows and horses whenever she could, but didn’t see many, and wound up snoozing in air-conditioned comfort much of the day.  Should have been a beautiful drive, but smoke was everywhere, marring the views.

In fact, the drive W only seemed to make matters worse.  Approaching Washington Pass in the N Cascades, fabulous towering peaks were in all directions.  All a hazy blur, though.  SPHP didn’t even bother to stop at a pullout.  W of the Cascades, Lupe actually was running out of continent.  A scorching 97ºF, and smoky, even here.  Unfathomable!

What to do?  After fueling up in Burlington, the day ended with a drive N on I-5 to Bellingham, then E on Hwy 542 back up into the Cascades until a L turn onto USFS Road No. 3065 to Twin Lakes appeared.  Driving up to the Yellow Aster trailhead, SPHP didn’t like the looks of it.  1.5 miles back down No. 3065, a hidden side road dead-ended at a flat spot overlooking Swamp Creek.

Only 70ºF here.  So much better!  Lupe was set for the night.

8-13-21, 7:51 AM, 55ºF, Swamp Creek – Humid, yet smoky.  Definitely worse this morning, but maybe conditions were better higher up, or would improve by the time Lupe could get to Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.)?  After spending nearly the entire day in the RAV4 yesterday, the American Dingo was at least going to give it a shot.

Leaving the Swamp Creek camp behind, Lupe trotted along the narrow lane leading back to USFS Road No. 3065.  Upon reaching it, she turned R heading NW for Twin Lakes.

A miles long, uphill road hike past Yellow Aster trailhead to Twin Lakes was in store, but the Carolina Dog was happy just being on the move.  Progress was good.  After passing a mile 3 marker, the road leveled out and widened at a small clearing.  On the R was a line of beehive boxes, where plenty of activity was in sight.

Allergic to insect stings, SPHP stayed way over on the L, hoping to slip by without incident.  However, a single bee came flying over, unhappy with the intrusion.  Lupe watched as SPHP repeatedly batted the bee away with a pole.  Increasingly angry, the dang insect kept coming back for more.  A particularly good thwack finally dazed the bee long enough to get past the beehives.

Fortunately, none of the bee’s comrades had felt threatened enough to join in the attack.

Beyond the beehives, Twin Lakes Road resumed its climb.  An amazingly dense forest with thick underbrush lined both sides.  Bushwhacking would be a near impossibility in a steep jungle like this!  Fortunately, no need for that.  Lupe passed several rushing streams that went through culverts.  A view finally opened up where it was possible to see across the valley.  The smoke was discouragingly thick.

Loop was getting close to the Yellow Aster trailhead when she came to a stream that trickled right over the road.  Two Honda Elements appeared on their way down the mountain.  The first one stopped.  A young couple inside said they’d just spent the night up at Twin Lakes.  The smoke was terrible up there now, so bad that it stung the eyes.  Completely ruined their plans, so they were heading home.  And with that cheery tidbit, both Elements were on their way.

Well, fiddlesticks, Loopster!

This is a fail, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah.  No doubt about it now.  Worst part of it was that SPHP had to run the beehive gauntlet again.  Sure enough, that same lone deranged bee launched another attack.  Insect brain must have had quite a headache by the time Lupe managed to get by again.

8-13-21, 9:13 AM, Swamp Creek – SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

So, what’s the plan?  Where to now, SPHP?

Why bless you, Looper, for thinking that I even have a plan.  About the only thing I can think of is to keep going W.  Maybe out on the Olympic Peninsula skies are blue?  Last bit of continent we have left before total, abject defeat.

Heading W out of the mountains on Hwy 542, SPHP saw a ranger station near Glacier, and stopped to buy a Northwest Forest Annual Pass.  $30.  What a deal!  S of Everett, I-5 was stop and go traffic.  Seattle was a 100°F nightmare, creeping along for hours on end.  Once again, the RAV4’s AC got a workout.  Fortunately, it was up to the task.

Took all day to get around to the S end of the Olympic Peninsula, but at least the air quality was much better.  As night came on, SPHP finally parked the RAV4 at a wide spot along some unmarked USFS Road a few miles N of Wynoochee Lake.

8-14-21 – Like dominoes, one fiasco led to the next.  The plan for the day was to climb Discovery Peak (4,837 ft.).  Not smoky here, but on USFS Road No. 2270 on the way to the trailhead, it became clear that there was a new problem.  The high country was all lost in the clouds.  Not going to see a thing, even if Lupe could manage to climb the mountain.

The American Dingo did get to see a waterfall alongside the road before SPHP gave up and turned the RAV4 around.

On the way out, Loopster might as well have a look at Wynoochee Lake while she was in the area, too.  Due to drought, the lake was low, but it was still in a lovely setting.

Since the mountains were clouded over, maybe Lupe could stop at a beach along the Pacific Ocean?  Sounded like fun.  Saturday, though.  Driving N on Hwy 101 all the beaches were packed.  Nowhere to park.  Brief glimpses of the ocean flashed by between the trees.

Aren’t you even going to stop, SPHP?  The Pacific Ocean is right there!  We’re missing it!

Naw.  Too crowded.  Let’s try for Cape Alava, instead!  It’s on the West Coast way up near the N end of the Olympic Peninsula.  Westernmost point of the 48 contiguous US states!  An easy 3 mile boardwalk trail through the rain forest from Ozette Lake will get us to the Pacific, where we can stroll another mile N along a scenic rocky beach to Tskawahyah Island.  Surely, it won’t be so busy.  How does that sound, Loop?

Sounded great, but Ozette Lake was a long winding drive.  At Sekiu, Lupe just had to stop to get up onto a brightly painted rock, and take a look at Vancouver Island across the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

Just think, SPHP!  Canada, right over there!

Yep.  Tantalizingly close, Loopster, but still the forbidden land.

8-14-21, 4:16 PM, Ozette Lake, Olympic Peninsula –  Finally, some action!  Expectantly, Lupe stood on the bridge leading to the Cape Alava trail, waiting for SPHP.  Parking hadn’t been a problem, but only because the parking lot was huge.  Must have been more than 100 vehicles present.

Sorry, Loopster, but Cape Alava is out.  We can’t go.

What?  After coming all this way!  Why not, SPHP?

I didn’t even think about this being part of Olympic National Park, Loop.  No Dingoes allowed!

With No Dingo signs everywhere, tons of people around, and a ranger station right at the trailhead, this just wasn’t going to work.  Doomed!

The counter-clockwise journey around the Olympic Peninsula resumed.  A brief stop at the Pillar Point Recreation Area along the Strait of Juan de Fuca was small consolation for the Cape Alava fail, but Lupe did enjoy the rare ocean sniffing.

8-14-21, 8:40 PM, Port Townsend – Too late!  Last ferry to Whidbey Island left 10 minutes ago.  Par for the course!  The entire venture around the Olympic Peninsula had been a colossal waste of time and fuel.  Lupe had seen a gazillon trees, but hadn’t climbed any peaks, and had spent hardly any time at the ocean.

Drive clear back through Seattle in the night when the traffic wouldn’t be so bad, or stay here and wait for morning?

Lupe waited.

8-15-21 – Waiting was the right call.  Sunday morning!  Plenty of room on the 6:30 AM ferry.  Cool, and very foggy, so there was absolutely nothing to see, even if Lupe had left the RAV4.

The Carolina Dog arrived at Whidbey Island without having to endure another long drive through Tacoma and Seattle.  Sunny with clear blue skies by the time she reached Bellingham!  Loopster spent a pleasant morning at Whatcom Falls Park and Whatcom Lake.  In the afternoon, she had to wait in the RAV4 while SPHP dined with Erik, Ana, and their friend, Erin, on the veranda at Anthony’s.

8-16-21, 8:17 AM, 62ºF, Swamp Creek – Lupe was back!  Raining, but only lightly.  At least there wasn’t any smoke.

Well, wha’dya think, Loopster?  Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.)?  Might get skunked again.

All excited, the were-puppy attacked!

Ack!  Stop!  I’ll take that as a yes.  Onward!  Puppy ho!

This time, no bee dared come out to harass SPHP as Lupe trotted on past the beehives.  The miles long road trek up the side of the Swamp Creek valley wasn’t all that exciting, but eventually there was a great view of Mount Baker (10,781 ft.) back to the SW.

The rain had ended well before Mount Baker came into sight, giving rise to hopes that maybe the clouds would dissipate.  However, the situation didn’t change much as Loopster wound her way up 5 long switchbacks.  Meanwhile, across the valley, views of Goat Mountain (6,840 ft.) were steadily improving.

At the upper end of the last switchback, the road finally leveled out and curved NE as Lupe reached the Twin Lakes trailhead.  The first lake and Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.) were now in sight.

The road led over to the area between the Twin Lakes.  Several vehicles and tents were there.  Before passing between the lakes, Lupe climbed a knoll with a view of both lakes and Winchester Mountain beyond them.

After coming down off the knob and passing between the lakes, Lupe reached the start of the Winchester Mountain and High Pass trails.  SPHP paused for a look at the posted map and trail information.

Seemed simple enough.  Stay to the L where High Pass trail No. 676 splits off, then follow Winchester Mountain trail No. 685 to the lookout at the summit.  Without further ado, Looper was on her way.

Didn’t take long at all to reach a marker at the junction with High Pass trail No. 676.  Winchester Mountain trail No. 685 continued to the L, winding steadily up the mountain’s SE slope.

The easy to only moderately steep trail was in great shape.  Early views included Pocket Peak (7,056 ft.) and Big Bosom Buttes (6,521 ft.) to the E, plus the W summit of Goat Mountain (6,725 ft.) and Mount Baker (10,781 ft.) to the S.

Blueberries caused some delays.  Absolutely delicious, and the views were better at each stop!  Bear Peak (6,480 ft.) came into sight beyond the Twin Lakes.  Soon Mount Shuksan (9,131 ft.) could be seen between Goat Mountain’s E and W summits.

Well up on the SE slopes of Winchester Mountain, Trail No. 685 leveled out and turned SW toward a pass next to a big knob of rock along the S ridge.  The only stretch of trail that required any caution was just ahead, a narrow, sloping band of tan rock that led up to the pass.

The tan rock band wasn’t as daunting as it appeared from a distance.  Once up at the pass, the trail curved sharply NW.  A whole new vista was ahead, the rocky shoulder of Winchester Mountain’s SW ridge.  Before continuing on, Lupe paused for a last look down on Twin Lakes.

SPHP was also keeping an eye on Mount Baker, because it seemed to be getting cloudier now.  Unfortunately, the magnificent, glacier-clad peak might not be visible by the time the American Dingo managed to get to Winchester Mountain’s summit.

The trail headed toward another pass leading to the SW ridge, but did not go all the way to it, instead switchbacking steadily up Winchester’s SW slope.  Once high enough, Lupe could see Tomyhoi Peak (7,435 ft.) and Mount McGuire (6,588 ft.) beyond the gap.

Higher yet, a dramatic display of American Border Peak (7,994 ft.), plus Mount Larrabee (7,861 ft.) and The Pleiades (7,520 ft.) came into view.

The switchbacks grew shorter and shorter, as Trail No. 685 snaked higher.  Couldn’t be much farther!  Suddenly, a gray building appeared.  The lookout!  Lupe had arrived!

8-16-21, 12:06 PM, 53ºF, Winchester Mountain (6,510 ft.) – A little tan knob of rock a few feet N of the lookout was Winchester Mountain’s true summit.  Claiming her peakbagging success, Lupe visited it briefly, but that wasn’t where the action was.  The big, splendid view was to the N from rock outcroppings ENE of the lookout – Mount Larrabee flanked by the dramatic spire of American Border Peak and rugged Pleiades.

Too bad it was such a gray day!  Winchester Mountain offered a lot of scenic splendor for a summit with such an easy trail all the way to the top.  A vast sea of glamourous peaks extended in all directions.

No complaints!  At least there wasn’t any smoke for once, and Lupe could see what was out there.  Glancing over at Mount Baker gradually being enveloped in clouds, it was apparent that the Carolina Dog might have reached the top of Winchester Mountain with little time to spare.

I know you’ve earned a chocolate coconut bar and some Taste of the Wild, Looper, but we better get a few photos while we still can!

So many magnificent mountains!  SPHP knew the names of only a few.  Happily, a man who had been relaxing in the lookout eventually came out and was able to identify Mount Redoubt (8,969 ft.), which was nearly beyond vision on the far E horizon.

To the SE, snowy Ruth Mountain (7,115 ft.) was lined up directly behind Bear Peak, with Mount Chardonnay (7,020 ft.) closer and farther E.

After introductions, SPHP asked Matt Westerheide, if a registry was in the lookout?  Matt said that there was.  So, Lupe got to go inside.  On a small table sat the largest, most elaborate old registry SPHP had ever seen.  Loopster’s name got added, of course!

Matt was very friendly, and happy to meet Lupe and chat with SPHP.  As it turned out, Matt was living the dream!  Since 2018, he had been living out of his van while traveling to many beautiful places between gigs as a contract nurse.  He was a big time skier and kayaker, who did a little mountain climbing, too.  Tonight he intended to stay up here in the Winchester Mountain lookout.

Matt was an incredibly interesting guy.  Upon learning that Lupe hoped to visit Oregon on this Dingo Vacation, he recommended the Trail of Ten Falls in Silver Falls State Park an hour from Portland, and Thor’s Well along the Oregon coast.

8-16-21, 3:16 PM, Winchester Mountain – After a long, most entertaining conversation, Lupe and SPHP left Matt to enjoy his stay at the lookout.  Once again, the Carolina Dog stood on the rock outcropping with that splendid view of Mount Larrabee and American Boundary Peak.

Nothing remained.  A cold, damp, gray fog had settled over Winchester Mountain.

Well, at least Lupe had arrived in time to see the world earlier on from this beautiful place.  If the weather cleared, she’d get to visit another one tomorrow, a special spot not too far away that was already on her list.  Matt had been there yesterday, and highly recommended it.

Staring briefly into the fog, SPHP sighed, then followed Lupe back down lovely Winchester Mountain.  (End 8-16-21, 6:16 PM, 59ºF, light rain)

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