Purcell Mountains – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Northwest Peak, Purcell Mountains, Montana (8-10-21)

Day 5 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

Wee hours, Purcell Mountains – A gentle paw woke SPHP up. Again? Yes, again. Lupe wanted out. Although still weary from yesterday’s ascent of Robinson Mountain, this time SPHP joined her. Must still be cloudy. The night was quiet and infinitely black, as SPHP directed the faint beam of the little flashlight. Meanwhile, the restless Carolina Dog sniffed her way both up and down USFS Road No. 7205.

7:52 AM, 54ºF – After being woken up half a dozen times during the night, small wonder that it was practically 8:00 AM when SPHP finally turned the key causing the RAV4 to spring to life. Sad to be leaving this place, but time waits for no Dingo! Funny how quickly one can become attached to a previously unknown spot. Pink Paradise was only a short hike away! Already, the Carolina Dog was leaving it behind.

Upon reaching USFS Road No. 92, SPHP turned W. Paved, but stripeless and narrow, the road wound higher mile after mile before a similar long steady descent began to the Yaak River. After crossing the river, Lupe had a blast barking at deer congregating in a region of homes on small acreages that SPHP mistook for the town of Yaak.

Confusion reigned. An hour got wasted driving back and forth due to poor signage and the absence of a decent map, but the Yaak Mercantile Store finally appeared, and from there it was only 3 miles W on No. 508 to a R turn N onto USFS Road No. 338. After that, the rest was easy.

12:22 PM, 60ºF, USFS Road No. 338 – Already afternoon by the time Lupe reached the Northwest Peak trailhead, but that was alright. A new sign said it was only 2.3 miles to the lookout. Despite having been awake half the night, the American Dingo was rarin’ to go! Crossing the road, Lupe passed a few white boulders as Trail No. 169 curved up into the forest.

Miss Perky ready to set off for Northwest Peak. Photo looks NW.

Heading S, a short climb led to an old roadbed which the trail followed W for a little way. Leaving the roadbed behind, a couple of sharp curves brought the Carolina Dog up onto a broad ridge.

The forest had burned. Although there wasn’t as much here as at Pink Paradise on the way to Robinson Mountain yesterday, fireweed added splashes of pink to the scene.

Following the old roadbed. Photo looks W.

On the broad, burnt ridge. Photo looks W.

At first, the ridge was flat, but soon Trail No. 169 started climbing at an easy pace. The trail headed W near the S edge of the ridge then veered N. Almost as soon as Lupe made it over to the N side of the ridge, the trail doubled back to the SW.

Getting close to the N side of the ridge. Photo looks N.

Soon Loopster was back along the S side of the ridge again. No. 169 now ran WNW, staying well below the ridgeline. Northwest Peak (7,705 ft.) was already in sight ahead.

**Northwest Peak** (Center). Photo looks WNW.

S of HP7326, the trail passed along the lower edge of a boulder field. Once beyond the boulders, it wasn’t much farther to the end of the burnt forest. Happy to have the shade of live trees, Lupe soon insisted upon taking a little break. Water and a chocolate coconut bar got shared. SPHP enjoyed a Mott’s blueberry applesauce, too.

Below the boulder field. Photo looks NW.

Continuing on, the rate of climb gradually increased. No. 169 went NW, eventually leading to more talus. By then, Loop was already almost as high as HP7326, which was now visible back to the E.

Encountering the next field of talus. Photo looks WNW.

As the American Dingo kept climbing, the forest thinned. Trail No. 169 wound through increasing amounts of rock. Occasional cairns helped mark the route.

Getting higher! **Marmot Mountain (6,921 ft.)** (Center), **HP7326** (R). Photo looks ENE.

Couldn’t be much farther! Near the end, the trail steepened and began trending SW. Few trees remained, until there were none at all. Nothing but talus the rest of the way.

Despite all the rock, Trail No. 169 remained easy to follow. Photo looks SW.

Hardly any rock-hopping required! Good trail the entire way. Lupe was heading SW, when a lookout and a tall cairn came into view.

2:31 PM, 50ºF, Northwest Peak (7,705 ft.) – Next to a huge cairn, Lupe stood squinting into the sun, not really caring for the unexpected gusty 20 mph wind sweeping over the mountain. Hadn’t even been breezy on the way up! Tall as the cairn was, it could easily have been much larger.

Enough rock up here to build a pyramid, SPHP!

No doubt, but forget that! Building pyramids is a lot of work. Someone must have had an awful lot of time on their paws just to build that cairn.

Northwest Peak’s summit plateau was a sea of talus. Not a tree, bush, or even a blade of grass, anywhere. The gigantic cairn was more than 100 feet NNE of the lookout cabin, which sat up at the true summit near the S end of the plateau. A flagless flagpole stood just S of the lookout, with a second, much smaller cairn nearby.

Definitely break time again, but with all the rock, there was nowhere comfy for the Carolina Dog to curl up.

Let’s check out the lookout cabin, SPHP! Maybe it’s unlocked like the one on Robinson Mountain (7,321 ft.)?

You just want to get out of the wind, don’t you!

It’s the sensible thing to do, SPHP!

Heading over to the lookout cabin. Photo looks SSW.

The door wasn’t locked. Lupe went right in. The lookout here was about the same size as the one on Robinson Mountain, but cleaner and better furnished. Almost everything was painted green. 3 wooden beds were next to the walls. In the middle of the room stood a tall table. A deck of cards was on it.

Sitting together on the bed closest to the door, SPHP shook Looper’s paw, congratulating her on her successful ascent of Northwest Peak. This feat, plus escaping the wind, was celebrated with the disappearance of the last chocolate coconut bar.

All the windows were closed, just like at Robinson Mountain. In addition to the beds and table, there were two desks and a bench. A clear plastic bin with a blue cover was resting on one of the desks. Unsnapping the cover revealed a nicely folded American Flag plus instructions on how to fold it. There was also a registry.

After entering Lupe’s name, SPHP read some of the other entries.

Anything interesting, SPHP?

Seems that most of these entries are by people hiking the PNT, Looper. Apparently Northwest Peak is part of it.

The PNT? What’s that?

The Pacific Northwest Trail. 1,200 miles long running E/W through Montana, Idaho, and Washington. Guess we should have brought the sleeping bags, Loopster! Quite a few people spend the night here.

Oh, that would have been fun!

After a bit, it was time to have a look at the views. Venturing outside again to brave the wind, Lupe first had a look S. The air was kind of hazy with smoke from distant forest fires, but it wasn’t too bad. From Northwest Peak, a long ridge extended S to Davis Mountain (7,583 ft.), then W over to Canuck Peak (6,934 ft.).

Apparently, that was the way the PNT went.

**Northwest Peak’s S Ridge**. **Davis Mountain** (L), **Canuck Peak** (L of Center). Photo looks SW.

**Davis Mountain** (L) and **Canuck Peak** (R) with help from the telephoto lens.

NW of the lookout cabin an outhouse sat not too far from the mountain’s W edge. Lupe went that way next. Burke Benchmark (7,461 ft.) was in sight beyond the outhouse, and past it, fabled, forbidden Canada, dimly seen through the smoke. American Mountain (6,591 ft.) was 3 miles W.

**Burke Benchmark** (Center). Photo looks N.

**American Mountain** (R of Center) is the long ridge at mid-range. Photo looks W.

Returning to the lookout cabin, shelter was again sought from the wind. After spending a little more time perusing the registry, SPHP broke out the deck of cards that was sitting on the table.

While you take it easy, Loop, think I’m going to play a little solitaire. Soon as I win a game, we’ll head out! How does that sound?

Fine with me, SPHP! I like this cabin. Really a shame you didn’t bring the sleeping bags!

I know it. Wish I had.

Time passed. SPHP played several games before putting the cards away.

Finally won one, SPHP?

Let’s just say it’s a good thing we stick to climbing mountains. There’s a reason you’ve never been to Vegas, Looper.

You lost every game?

0-4, if you must know. I’ve lost interest in it. Odd, I know. C’mon, let’s see if we can get a glimpse of the Hawkins Lakes before we go!

Rather reluctantly, the Carolina Dog left the nifty lookout cabin for the last time. Heading N along the summit plateau, it was slow going on all the talus as Lupe gradually lost elevation. The Hawkins Lakes did not come into view, and it began to look like Loop might have to go quite a bit farther before they might.

Eh. Too windy! Losing interest in this project, too, Loopster. Maybe we ought to just head back to the trail?

Leaving the lookout cabin for the last time. Photo looks SW.

About as far N as Lupe got. **Burke Benchmark** (Center). Photo looks N.

The American Dingo had no objection. Returning to the tall cairn and the region near the lookout cabin, she gazed for the final time from the top of windy Northwest Peak upon HP7326 and the long ridge she was about to head back down.

**Marmot Mountain** (far L), **HP7326** (L), and the **ridge Trail No. 169 comes up** (R). Photo looks E.

Relief from the wind came almost immediately after leaving the summit plateau. With a good trail that wasn’t all that steep, the return was fun. Leading the way, Lupe trotted happily along, sniffing and exploring both on and off trail at will. Before long it was time for that last glance back at Northwest Peak.

On the way back. **Northwest Peak** (L). Photo looks WNW.

Oh, things that might have been! It could have been done! Lupe made it back to the RAV4 with hours of daylight left. The Carolina Dog still might have spent this night listening to the wind moan in the lookout cabin, but she never did persuade SPHP to grab those sleeping bags and head back up to lonely, remote Northwest Peak (7,705 ft). (5:19 PM, 65ºF)

**Northwest Peak**, Purcell Mountains, Montana 8-10-21

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GPS track by Greg Slayden (8-16-16)

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Robinson Mountain, Purcell Mountains, Montana (8-9-21)

Part 2 of Day 4 of Lupe’s 3rd Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to the West Coast!

12:31 PM, 52ºF – Alrighty, Looper! I’m ready. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Lupe was ready, too. In fact, she’d been waiting on SPHP for half an hour. After crossing the bridge to adventure over Lake Koocanusa, it had taken a while to get here. On the way, the sky had become overcast and rather gloomy, but the situation seemed to be improving now.

Leaving the nice grassy strip along USFS Road No. 7205 that served as trailhead parking for Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.), Loop started up a steep little bank past the only trailhead amenity, a few signs attached to a tree. SPHP barely glanced at them.

At the trailhead along USFS Road No. 7205. Photo looks NE.

Setting out for Robinson Mountain! Photo looks NW.

Immediately beyond the signs, the trail leveled out some, first veering L before making a 180 back to the R. In short order, it then curved back around to the SW (L) again, before heading NW up a valley. This whole region was forested with dense undergrowth wherever sunlight could penetrate. Although the trail was soft due to recent rain, only one little stretch was muddy.

Kind of a jungle, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yeah, glad this trail is here, or we’d already be having quite the time of it!

Are these pink flowers fireweed, SPHP? Looks just like the fireweed we used to see up in Canada and Alaska to me!

I’ve been thinking the same thing, Looper! Had no idea that fireweed grew this far S, though. Happy to see it!

Well, we’re almost to Canada, right, SPHP?

Yup, only 4 miles S of the border. With any luck, a few hours and you’ll be looking into Canada from the top of Robinson Mountain!

Lupe had gone only 0.2 mile when the forest began to open up enough to see a ridge ahead. Looked only 200 to 300 feet higher. Climbing toward it, the trail curved S, tackling the slope at an easy angle.

First glimpse of the first ridge (R). Photo looks W.

Before getting all the way to the top of the ridge, Lupe popped out of the forest onto a grassy road. Much sunnier here. Dead trees could be seen higher up. Apparently, there had been a fire. The region near the crest of the ridge was pink with fireweed.

Hang on, Looper! Let me check the topo map. Ahh, good! This must be USFS Road No. 999. We ought to be able follow it to Trail No. 159. Should be on the L in about 0.3 mile.

0.3 mile, SPHP? It’s right here!

Turning NW, the American Dingo had barely gone 40 feet from where she’d reached the road. Yet, sure enough, an unmarked trail curved SW up the fireweed infested slope.

Hmm. Well, fine! Take it Loop, if you want to. The topo map does show Trail No. 159 running along the crest of this ridge. Either this is No. 159, or it ought to lead us to it.

Heading for the ridge crest. Photo looks W.

A short, easy climb got Lupe up to a flat region on top of the ridge.

Look at this, SPHP! Pink Paradise! Most beautiful burnt forest ever!

Once on top, the trail headed across the broad ridge as if it was going to go right on down the other side into the Lime Creek valley, but at the last moment turned NW before losing significant elevation. Apparently this actually was Trail No. 159. Lupe followed it along the upper SW side of the ridge through dead forest and thriving fireweed. A tree-broken view of HP7158 was visible ahead.

On the upper SW side of the ridge. **HP7158** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Before long, No. 159 angled back up and over to the NE side of the ridge, and began a slow descent. Lupe was soon back at USFS Road No. 999.

OK, this must be where I expected we’d reach the trail before you found it so quickly the first time, Loop. The topo map shows it veering off to the L again somewhere right along in here. Keep a nose out for it!

On the ridgeline, about to start down. **HP7158** (L of Center). Photo looks NNW.

Back on USFS Road No. 999 again. Photo looks NNE.

Here it is, SPHP!

This time, Lupe had gone a whole 100 feet N along No. 999 before finding the trail again. Signs were visible on a tree just past where the trail left the road. Upon reaching the tree, a new sign said this was Trail No. 59, not No. 159 as shown on the topo map.

The trail and USFS Road No. 999 part ways again. Photo looks N.

Hmm. Well, who knows which number is right? In any case, it’s gotta be the same trail. Just keep going, Loopster!

The trail climbed only a little before leveling out. Instead of continuing NW toward HP7158 as shown on the map, No. 159 curved NE. Still in the dead forest so nicely decorated with fireweed, Lupe entered a region of small hills, ridges, and valleys. After losing 40 feet of elevation crossing a ravine, there were more ups and downs. None were significant.

Finally approaching some higher ground, Lupe came to a climb that led to more up and down past some 20 foot high rock outcroppings. Beyond the rocks was another rise that didn’t amount to much. Still going NE, the trail leveled out, and gradually turned N.

Patches of blue sky and breezy. SPHP kept turning around to look back. The Carolina Dog seemed perfectly relaxed.

Starting to climb a bit. Photo looks NE.

What’s wrong with you, SPHP? Why so skittish?

Equipped with those big soft Dingo ears, and you don’t hear it, Loop?

Hear what?

Branches or twigs cracking, like we’re being followed!

Just the wind, SPHP. You haven’t seen anything out there, have you?

No, I haven’t. Never anything there when I turn around, but it sure sounds like there is, and we’ve been in windy, dead forests before.

Forget it, SPHP! Nothing to worry about! Except, maybe your sanity.

If you say so, Loop, but this place suddenly seems kind of creepy, even in broad daylight. Want to know another thing that’s strange? We’ve come all this way through a dead forest, but not a single bit of deadfall across the trail. Nothing, nada!

You aren’t complaining, are you?

No, of course not, Loop. Just saying. In most dead forests there would be a ton of it.

The trail finally turned NW, beginning to climb much more steeply. The dead forest, SPHP’s delusions, and the beautiful pink fireweed were left behind. After gaining a good 400 feet of elevation, No. 159 turned N and flattened out at a 3-way junction. There was a sign here.

*Aha! So it is Trail No. 159, not just No. 59! Or, at least, it used to be.*

So which way, SPHP?

Stay to the L, Looper. Think the trail going to the R heads N to a little lake E of Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.).

Beyond the junction, the trail to the L climbed a bit, leveled out again, then descended 20 feet into a ravine where Lupe came to another 3-way junction. Right at this junction, there was a big rock that sloped at a 30 degree angle.

Which way now, SPHP?

L again, Looper, but how about a chocolate coconut bar and water break? We can sit on that big rock.

The American Dingo was all in favor of that!

A trail marker just past the first 3-way junction. Only one of its kind along the whole route that SPHP noticed.

Past the first junction, climbing toward the next one. Photo looks NNW.

At chocolate coconut bar rock! Photo looks ENE.

Chocolate coconut bars have an extremely short half-life when a Carolina Dog has anything to say about it. Lupe was soon back at it. Taking the trail to the L (W), she passed a sign that was visible from the junction confirming that this was the right way to go. Beyond the sign, Trail No. 159 sloped gradually down into a dense, gloomy forest.

Leaving the second 3-way junction. Photo looks W.

Loop wasn’t far into the gloomy forest when the trail bottomed out and began a steep climb. Soon running water could be heard in a thicket L of the trail. No stream could be seen from the trail, even though it proved to be merely 6 or 7 feet away when the American Dingo conducted an investigation.

Trail No. 159 climbed only a little more before leveling out at the lower end of a big bowl. A high ridge was visible at the upper end.

On the flat stretch leading into the bowl. Photo looks W.

As Lupe ventured farther and farther into the bowl, she broke out of the live forest into another region that had burned. The trail began to climb faster and faster, straight up the slope leading to the ridge ahead. Lupe raced away to bark at squirrels, while SPHP trudged higher.

A couple of long, gentle switchbacks made the last part of this ascent much easier than the direct attack. The Carolina Dog was nearly up to the ridgeline when Robinson Mountain came into sight for the first time.

Among the burnt trees of the bowl with a considerable climb yet to reach the ridgeline. Photo looks NW.

Almost to the ridgeline. **Robinson Mountain** (L of Center), **HP7158** (R). Photo looks NW.

Trail No. 159 brought Lupe to the top of the ridge at the saddle between HP7069 and HP7158. This region had burned fiercely. After crossing the saddle, the trail remained level as Looper traversed HP7158‘s SW slope, making a beeline for Robinson Mountain, now only 0.75 mile NW.

The American Dingo was soon at the base of the final ascent. Only 600 feet of elevation gain left to go!

**Robinson Mountain** (Center) from the saddle region. Photo looks NW.

Traversing **HP7158‘s SW slope**. **Robinson Mountain** (Center). Photo looks NW.

Approaching the final ascent. Photo looks NW.

Upon reaching the saddle between Robinson Mountain and Peak 7158, the trail curved R and went through a little gap. Robinson Mountain’s steep, rocky E face was now in view, along with an enormous amount of territory off to the NE. Here the trail turned NW again, starting up Robinson Mountain’s SE ridge.

**Robinson Mountain’s E face** from the SE ridge. Photo looks N.

Another look from a little higher up. Photo looks NNE.

A few hundred feet below the summit, Trail No. 159 veered off to the W, leaving the SE ridge. Braving a chilly SW breeze beneath a leaden sky, Lupe followed switchbacks up Robinson Mountain’s S slope. Looked like it might rain at any moment, but didn’t.

A small building could be seen up on the summit. Each switchback got Loop closer to it. Final approach was from the W. Lupe came to a large cairn shortly before reaching the old lookout.

The trail veers off to the L (W) here, leaving the SE ridge. Photo looks NW.

A brief inspection of the cairn revealed nothing of particular interest, so Lupe proceeded on to the old lookout. A rock W of the building proved to be the true summit of Robinson Mountain (7,539 ft.). This rock bore a survey benchmark, which disappointingly did not have “Robinson” or the elevation stamped into it.

The sky remained quite cloudy, and the air was hazy. Whether the haze was due to smoke, humidity, or some combination thereof, was hard to say. Mount Henry (7,243 ft.) was in sight to the SW, but whatever lay beyond it was indistinct.

At the **true summit**. **Mount Henry** (Center). Photo looks SW.

After a quick look at the views from the true summit, Looper retreated to the N side of the lookout seeking shelter from the cold wind. Curling up on SPHP’s lap, she faced N. Down a slope to the NE, an outhouse was visible among stunted trees. Mountains stretched away toward a murky horizon. The tallest was almost as high as Robinson Mountain.

What mountain is that, SPHP?

Probably Mount Fitzpatrick (7,328 ft.), Loop, 1.25 miles into Canada!

Canada!

Told you that you would get to see Canada today!

Wow, we’re that close! We really could walk into Canada, couldn’t we?

Yeah, but we wouldn’t get very far. Might as well enjoy it from here.

Speaking of enjoy, do you happen to have another chocolate coconut bar in the pack, SPHP?

For 20 minutes, Lupe and SPHP sat there gazing into Canada. Taste of the Wild and water followed the last chocolate coconut bar into oblivion, while SPHP had a fruit cup and Mott’s blueberry applesauce.

**Mount Fitzpatrick** (L). Photo looks N.

Well, SPHP, since we’re not going to Canada, you about ready for a tour of Robinson Mountain’s summit?

Might as well, Loop!

The E end of the summit region dropped away 50 feet from the lookout. HP7158 and HP7069, which Lupe had gone between on the way up, were both in sight to the SE. All the terrain directly E or NE was much lower. Pretty hazy that way, but Lake Koocanusa was discernable.

**HP7158** (L) and **HP7069** (R) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

**Lake Koocanusa**, faintly near the horizon. Photo looks E.

Turning back W, a door was visible on the E side of the lookout.

Try it, SPHP!

Unlocked! The Carolina Dog ventured in.

A spartan interior greeted Lupe. Small, as had been apparent from the outside. A broom, a metal ladder, plus a wooden one going up to the loft. Other than that, some firewood, and a little woodstove. Near the woodstove, a white plastic jug suspended by a rope contained a registry.

The woodstove and suspended summit registry jug.

Apparently, Robinson Mountain is a popular destination. The registry was full of names.

Whoa! We aren’t even the first ones up here today, Looper!

We aren’t?

Not even close! We’re 11th and 12th! The Troyers, Planks, and a Miller have already come and gone. All from Nappanee, Indiana.

Really? They must have started a lot earlier, because we haven’t seen anyone.

Guess so, Loop. We’ve lucked out compared to them, though! Listen to this entry by the Troyers – “First time to Rexford, beautiful! Great hike – wish we could have seen more. Very foggy – windy – cold & damp!”

Hah! Good thing we stopped at the Ross Creek Giant Cedars this morning, SPHP. Sometimes being the early Dingo isn’t the best!

SPHP entered Lupe’s name into the registry. Not much else to do in here except shelter from the wind, so it was back to the summit tour. After leaving the lookout, Loop returned to the cairn for another look W. In addition to Mount Henry off to the SW, Caribou Mountain (6,844 ft.) stood out to the NW.

**Caribou Mountain** (R). Photo looks W.

Finishing her tour, Loopster explored the region down by the outhouse. Highlights, if you could call them that, included a blue wheelbarrow, and a hitching post and railing.

The summit from down by the outhouse. Photo looks SW.

Then it was back up to the lookout, and a last visit to the true summit, before it was time to go.

Final moments at the **true summit**. Photo looks SW.

5:00 PM, 45ºF, Robinson Mountain – 65 minutes after arriving, Loopster was back at the big cairn. Her time here was about up, but SPHP let the American Dingo relax for a few moments. Canada! Glorious Canada was in sight only a couple of miles away. Tantalizingly real, yet only a dream as far as this Dingo Vacation was going to go.