Day 19 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
6:02 AM, 37°F – The sky had been almost clear before sunset. SPHP expected to wake to blue skies. No such luck. Nothing but gray overhead. Lupe was famished. She gobbled down generous helpings of Alpo and Taste of the Wild before going back to sleep. The Carolina Dog was still exhausted after yesterday’s Cathedral Mountain (3,350 ft.) adventure. SPHP worked on the trip journal while rain showers came and went.
10:15 AM – Loop was awake again. Not raining now. Scattered patches of blue could even be seen. May as well hit the road. Lupe and SPHP left Cathedral Mountain heading N on the Dalton Highway.
As it turned out, Coldfoot (milepost 175) was only half a dozen miles away. SPHP gassed up the G6. Only $4.599 per gallon! Same as last year, and a bargain compared to the $5.50 per gallon they wanted back at the Yukon River. Be grateful for what you can get in the Arctic. Especially when they’re practically giving it away!
25 miles N of Coldfoot was a thrilling sight. Sukakpak Mountain was dead ahead! Lupe had climbed Sukakpak in 2016. As far as SPHP was concerned, Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) had been one of her most memorable adventures ever!
A repeat of Lupe’s 2016 Sukakpak Mountain adventure would have been great fun, but the weather was just too iffy for that. Too little blue sky, and too many rain showers around. A huge effort that might easily wind up totally socked in and wet didn’t seem worth the risk.
However, there was an easy adventure near Sukakpak Mountain that Lupe and SPHP would both love to do again. This part of the Brooks Range was the farthest N Lupe had ever been. In 2016, Lupe had gone on her Last Mile North adventure. This involved only a relatively short walk along the Alaska oil pipeline to a creek N of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), then W to its nearby confluence with the Dietrich River.
From that confluence, Lupe had seen a mysterious dark mountain 10 miles farther N. She had seen it the day before from the top of Sukakpak Mountain, too. Not knowing its real name, or if Lupe would ever in her whole life be this far N again, SPHP had named that dark mountain the Mountain of the Midnight Sun.
Both to commemorate last year’s achievement getting so far N in the Brooks Range, and to celebrate her return, Lupe was going to repeat her Last Mile North trek to see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again. Upon return, Loop was then going to go farther N than she had ever been before, exploring new territory and shattering her old record.
It was raining again when SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout on the W side of the Dalton Highway right before the bridge over the Dietrich River shortly before noon. After a bite to eat, and finishing catching up the trip journal while Loop napped, the rain was over. Still overcast and cool, but conditions were fine for the Last Mile North trek. SPHP donned a jacket and the rain poncho, and Lupe was underway. (1:01 PM)
The morning’s inactivity and early afternoon nap had done Lupe a lot of good. She was ready for action again! She crossed the bridge over the Dietrich River continuing N to milepost 207 on the Dalton Highway. In 2016, a small pullout slightly N of this point was as far N as the G6 had made it. Milepost 207 was exactly halfway along the 414 mile trip on the Dalton Highway from Livengood to Deadhorse at Prudhoe Bay.
Near milepost 207, Lupe took a short gravel access road W to the service road along the Alaska oil pipeline. Here, SPHP turned N following the service road.
Following the Alaska oil pipeline N was fabulous! For once, a nice level hike. Better yet, one surrounded by wonderful, remote mountains way up here in the unspoiled Brooks Range of N Alaska. It was an incredible feeling. And as much as SPHP liked this place, Lupe adored it. Her enthusiasm was boundless! The Carolina Dog ran, and ran, and ran.
Looper spent nearly all of her time out of sight in the bushes and forests just off the pipeline service road. She raced back and forth across the road as the mood struck her. Periodically she suddenly appeared a great distance away, and would streak back along the service road to check on SPHP’s progress. Her joy could be measured by the size of that huge pink tongue dangling from her open mouth.
After following the Alaska oil pipeline a little more than a mile N, Lupe reached a creek flowing W from the region N of Dillon Mountain. A huge area gets washed out by this creek when water levels are much higher in late spring and early summer. Now the creek was quite low, and occupied only a small portion of its rocky riverbed.
The sun had come out. Lupe must have been hot. She drank deeply from the clear, cold creek. She plunked herself right down in the water numerous times. The current was so strong some places that it swept her downstream. Looper didn’t seem to care. The water wasn’t deep. She could get out whenever she pleased.
Lupe and SPHP followed the creek downstream toward its confluence with the Dietrich River about 0.33 mile W of the Alaska oil pipeline. When the stream moved to its far S bank, SPHP was forced up into forest and stands of tall bushes. This slowed SPHP’s progress down a great deal. Meanwhile, Loopster returned to the forest to resume her free roaming adventures. SPHP had to call her back periodically so she didn’t wander too far away.
Suddenly Lupe was there, back at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream she’d been following. This was the farthest N Lupe had ever been. A year and four days ago, she had been here. Off to the N, Lupe could see the Mountain of the Midnight Sun again. The top of the mountain was hidden by clouds.
Being back here was an emotional experience. When Lupe had left this place last year, it was with a feeling that she would probably never ever be here to see this fabulous view and the mysterious Mountain of the Midnight Sun again, it was so far N and so far from home. Yet here she was, only a little over a year later. And Lupe had returned as the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood! Being here seemed both so familiar and so natural, yet at the same time strange and incredibly remote again. It was wonderful to be back!
This time was going to be different, though. The plan SPHP had eventually put together for Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation was that she would indeed return to the Yukon & Alaska. Lupe would come back here, to this very spot, but this time she would go even farther. Lupe was going to continue N beyond Atigun Pass, crossing the spine of the mighty Brooks Range. She was going to see Galbraith Lake beyond the end of the mountains, and climb Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) where she would have a tremendous view of the North Slope of Alaska.
Yes, Lupe was going to see that distant far N land beyond Alaska’s last mountain range! The Carolina Dog would get to see the North Slope’s vast empty boreal tundra extending beyond vision to the Arctic Ocean at the top of the world.
SPHP had learned something since Lupe had last been here. For many months after Lupe returned home from her 2016 Dingo Vacation, SPHP had purposely not looked at the topo maps to see if they showed a real name for the Mountain of the Midnight Sun. Finally though, SPHP did look. Yes, the maps did show a name. The Mountain of the Midnight Sun’s real name was Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.).
The topo maps confirmed one other thing. SPHP had hoped Lupe might be able to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun if she ever returned, but feared that the mountain was probably too difficult. The topo maps concurred. It wasn’t likely SPHP would be able to climb such a rugged peak, which meant Lupe never would either. Still, Lupe could drop by for a look at the mountain today when she went by it heading N. A slim chance still existed an ascent might look feasible.
Lupe and SPHP lingered at the confluence of the Dietrich River and the clear stream a while. Loop relaxed on exposed riverbed next to the river, while SPHP pondered this place and this moment. For more than a year, this had been the farthest N Looper and SPHP had ever been. For more than a year, it had been a dream, at first only faintly held, to come back some day. Now, after today, this hike and this confluence would no longer be Lupe’s last mile N. However, it would forever be a special place. The Carolina Dog and SPHP both loved being here.
The long dreamed of moment passed. Lupe was ready. Time for action! New adventures, glorious ones, were ahead! First things first, though. The American Dingo was eager to relive all the great fun of coming here on the way back to the G6 again.
The forest rang with the shrill, excited barking of the Happiest Dingo on earth. Lupe sped through the forests following whatever secret paths her nose led her to. She didn’t waste a single minute. It was another grand time for both Loop and SPHP, and like all grand times, over too soon. There seemed to be little doubt that Lupe would have rated the past two hours the very best of her entire Dingo Vacation so far.
The sun was out. The temperature had soared to 66°F by the time Lupe reached the G6. (3:06 PM) This was a rare opportunity to dry some things out on the roof. Lupe rested in the shade, listening to the rippling Dietrich River with a beautiful view of Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.), still the northernmost mountain Lupe had ever climbed.
Rain showers were visible not too far away the whole time. The sunny half hour ended as clouds returned. At least some things had dried off. SPHP took everything off the roof of the G6 and put it all away. It was time. (3:45 PM, 59°F)
Come on, Loopster! Our time’s up here.
Oh, are we really going N now? Farther than ever before?
Yes ma’am. The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood is going to see some territory she’s never seen before. With a title like that, it’s almost an obligation for you to explore more of the Arctic, you know.
Are we going to climb the Mountain of the Midnight Sun?
We’ll see. Probably not. Don’t think it’s anything we can do, but we’ll stop and take a look just in case. It’s not that far away from here. At least you will get to see your Mountain of the Midnight Sun up close.
And then what?
Well, we’ll have a beautiful drive through the Brooks Range along the Dietrich River valley. Eventually we’ll get to another mountain Richard Carey wrote a trip report about on Peakbagger.com. He hasn’t steered us wrong yet. I’m hoping you’ll be able to climb it.
What mountain is that, SPHP?
Table Mountain. We should be able to see it from the Chandalar Shelf.
Table Mountain? Sounds kind of boring. Plenty of Table Mountains, but there’s never a Chair Mountain, is there? Chandalar Shelf sounds sort of exotic, though. I like it here, but I suppose you’re right, as Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I ought to explore more of the Arctic. It would be hard to explain to the rest of the sisters, if I didn’t.
Clever, Loop, but actually you have climbed a chair mountain. Remember Kings Throne Peak near Kathleen Lake back in the Yukon? A throne is a fancy chair.
Oh, I never thought of that, SPHP.
The Dalton Highway’s beautiful pavement ended even before Lupe reached milepost 210 a couple miles N of Dillon Mountain. That was a shame. The highway was now mud, gravel, and potholes. Only a few miles farther, as Lupe was nearing the Mountain of the Midnight Sun, SPHP saw an impressive view of Dillon Mountain in the rear view mirror. It was worth a quick stop.
Lupe reached the Mountain of the Midnight Sun at milepost 216. A glance told the story. It was a great mountain, but SPHP wasn’t prepared to tackle anything like that. Despite the mountain having been a dream goal for over a year, Loop and SPHP paused only briefly before continuing on.
The drive up the Dietrich River valley was as beautiful as SPHP had promised it would be. The Dalton Highway eventually left the river, climbing fairly steeply up the side of a ridge. Near the top, the road curved to the R. A broad plain flanked by mountains came into view ahead. SPHP parked the G6 at a large pullout on the R (milepost 237). Lupe had reached the Chandalar Shelf.
Clouds prevailed over most of the sky, but Lupe stood in weak sunshine when she got out of the G6 for a look. (6:00 PM) The Chandalar Shelf was gorgeous! A treeless tundra of colorful low bushes stretched away for miles. The flanking mountains were dark beneath the clouds, but weren’t rough or particularly high.
Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was in view more than 4 miles S of the pullout. Though the summit was partially obscured by clouds, and looked like it might have a dusting of new snow on it, SPHP was excited to see that Table Mountain looked like an eminently climbable peak for Lupe!
It was much too late, and weather conditions weren’t right anyway, to consider an ascent today. If she stuck around, Lupe could climb Table Mountain tomorrow, though, if the weather would cooperate. If Loop stayed here overnight, she could get an early start in the morning.
Lupe was interested in making a brief foray out onto the Chandalar Shelf. It seemed like a good idea. Loop and SPHP quickly learned that the ground was soggier than expected. When the time came, the best route to Table Mountain across the Chandalar Shelf would likely be on the highest terrain possible. Fortunately, this was pretty much the most direct line to the mountain, anyway.
Perhaps Lupe and SPHP should have stayed at the Chandalar Shelf overnight. Then Lupe might have climbed Table Mountain the next day, but the prospect of seeing new territory made continuing on exciting and attractive. The Arctic stays light a long time, even in mid-August. Lupe had hours of daylight left. Besides, she would eventually have to return this way. She could climb Table Mountain then.
Lupe was only a few miles beyond the Chandalar Shelf when it became apparent that the Dalton Highway would soon start climbing to Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.). The road was wet, soft, and slick, and the tops of the mountains here were definitely sporting new snow. What would the road be like? Could the G6 even make it to Atigun Pass?
The climb up to Atigun Pass initially seemed daunting. The road was steep, wet and slick. A light rain was falling, and the possibility of snow on the road ahead was worrisome. However, the G6 was doing fine.
The top of Atigun Pass (milepost 245) was only 2.5 miles from the big curve where the Dalton Highway began gaining elevation in earnest. Despite initial trepidation, the ascent had gone quickly and smoothly. The pass was 38°F when Lupe arrived. There was a huge pullout on the E side of the highway. Sadly, and rather surprisingly, Loop found no commemorative sign of any kind.
Atigun Pass (4,739 ft.) is the high point of the Dalton Highway, and on the continental divide along the spine of the Brooks Range. S of the pass, water drains W to the Bering Sea, part of the North Pacific Ocean. N of the pass, water flows N to the Arctic Ocean.
As geographically significant as Atigun Pass might be, it didn’t take a Carolina Dog long to conclude her inspection of cloudy mountains, cool damp weather, and a muddy parking lot. After a few minutes, Loop was ready to go see whatever was N of the pass.
The drive down the N side of the Brooks Range was fascinating! For a couple of miles, the Dalton Highway seemed steeper here than it had been S of Atigun Pass. The road wound around making big curves along the sides of the mountains. Up high, a heavy mist was coming down. Fog drifted among mountains capped with new snow, most summits hidden in the clouds.
SPHP drove slowly so Lupe could take it all in. The American Dingo stopped a couple of times on the way down, too, just to better appreciate being N of Atigun Pass for the first time ever.
After a couple of miles of steep, wide turns, Lupe could see she was now down close to where the road’s grade was about to moderate. The Dalton Highway was heading into a long valley. Small streams by the road were some of the headwaters of the Atigun River beginning a long journey to the Arctic Ocean.
The Dalton Highway began straightening out. It made gentle curves along lower slopes of the mountains following the newly forming Atigun River down the valley. A dozen miles from Atigun Pass, a major tributary came in from a big valley to the SW. The Atigun River was already getting big, and the valley was widening out.
Not a tree grew anywhere. Tall bushes were uncommon, though plenty of low ones grew. The Atigun River valley was a starkly beautiful boreal tundra flanked by some of the northernmost mountains in Alaska.
Before too long, it began to look like the Dalton Highway would soon be approaching the end of the Brooks Range. SPHP didn’t realize it yet, but Loopster could already see Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.), the mountain she would try to climb tomorrow hoping for a glorious view of Alaska’s vast North Slope.
Where the Atigun River came closer to the Dalton Highway, SPHP parked the G6. Being here was a dream come true! Time to get out and enjoy! Loop happily explored the tundra, while SPHP walked over to the river.
Lupe enjoyed a short romp near the Atigun River, but she was getting very close to being as far N as SPHP had planned for her big 2017 Dingo Vacation. She would soon be close to Lake Benchmark Mountain and Galbraith Lake where her journey N would end. In fact, a dark cluster of peaks up ahead must be where Lake Benchmark Mountain was!
It was exciting being here, nearing a new even more northerly last mile N record for Lupe. What would she see there? Lupe and SPHP returned to the G6 to keep going. Soon a gap appeared in the mountains ahead. Beyond the gap was a distant flat land. The North Slope! That was where it began!
The Atigun River did not flow N through the gap Lupe had seen directly out onto the North Slope. Instead, shortly before reaching the gap, the river turned E entering a narrow valley between high mountains. Near this E bend, the Dalton Highway crossed a bridge over the Atigun River, leaving it behind and continuing N toward the gap.
The highway was going uphill now, bordered on one side by the Alaska oil pipeline and a high ridge Lupe would climb tomorrow on her way to Lake Benchmark Mountain somewhere to the E. On the W side of the highway, Lupe ought to be seeing Galbraith Lake any moment now. Sure enough, Galbraith Lake quickly came into view.
Galbraith Lake lies at the base of the N side of the Brooks Range. The S end of the lake is in a wide plain near high mountains, but the N end of Galbraith Lake extends out into the beginning of the North Slope. Lupe could see the entire lake from the Dalton Highway. She was now about as far N as SPHP had planned for her to go – at the end of her northern explorations.
Standing there on the Dalton Highway, with glistening Galbraith Lake in full view beneath a gray sky, SPHP was seized with the notion that Lupe ought to go farther. Yes, Loop could see the beginning of the North Slope at the N end of Galbraith Lake from here, but the sky was lighter over that way, and the Dalton Highway was still going up as it continued N.
Maybe by going a few miles farther, Lupe could get to some higher point where the light would be better, and she could see much more of the North Slope? It seemed worth a shot. It was late in the day. Lupe and SPHP had nothing better to do before sunset.
It was a good decision. As SPHP drove N, the light did improve, and so did the views of the North Slope. The Dalton Highway reached the top of the hill it had been climbing. SPHP continued driving N over a couple minor rises looking for a place to park the G6. Several miles beyond the last hills of the Brooks Range, a wide side road appeared on the W side of the Dalton Highway near milepost 236 or 237. Yes!
Loopster, Loopster, come on! Hurry! This is it! What you’ve come so far to see! We’re in the nick of time!
Lupe was almost alarmed by SPHP’s excited, wild behavior, but being a bold American Dingo, leapt out of the G6 ready for anything.
It was raining. And sunny. Gentle rolling fields of gold extended N as far as Lupe could see toward big hills bordering on small mountains on the horizon. To the W a line of much higher mountains marked the N edge of the lonely, remote Brooks Range. To the SE, a last ridge stood high and dark in a shadowy gloom. In sunlight, before this forbidding ridge, extending down to the golden boreal tundra, glowed a double rainbow.
It was an amazing moment, so full of joy! This was it! This was the unbelievable North Slope even better than any dream. Lupe had arrived when the whole world appeared as a boundless treasure. The North Slope’s limitless tundra was a promised golden land at the end of the rainbow.
Such magical moments can’t last. They flit away, never to return, like carefree butterflies blown far and wide, lost wherever soft breezes take them. The rainbow, the dazzling sunlight, the glistening raindrops would all quickly fade or pass by. Yet for a few wonderful fleeting moments, it was all so very real, as real as anything ever was.
Chasing rainbows, Lupe got cold and wet. She was tired and hungry. SPHP turned the G6 to face the sunset. Alpo for Lupe, then her warm blankie. At evening’s end, a pale sun sank into a bank of gray clouds. No colors, no beauty, simply gone. The vast gray tundra stretched away to infinity. Lupe snoozed as SPHP watched the North Slope fade away. (10:30 PM, 41°F)
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