Jasper National Park – Page 3 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Parker Ridge & the Saskatchewan Glacier, The Icefields Centre & the Athabasca Glacier (7-27-13)

7-23-13. The 18th Day of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies. Lupe and SPHP woke up fairly early, around 6:30 AM. It was already light out, of course, and had been for over an hour. The sky was a brilliant blue and the sun shone brightly on the mountain peaks to the W.

Lupe and SPHP were still in the shadows of the mountains to the E. Lupe and SPHP went down to the bridge they had crossed the previous evening when Lupe had gone to see Chephren and Cirque Lakes. For a few minutes, Lupe and SPHP just stood on the middle of the bridge looking at the Mistaya River and enjoying the moment.

Then it was time to go. Lupe had things to do! SPHP was really looking forward to it, too. Lupe was going to go on the most anticipated trek of the entire vacation, the short hike up to Parker Ridge for a magnificent view of the Saskatchewan Glacier! After a quick breakfast, Lupe and SPHP headed N in the G6 along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93.

Even from the highway, there were great views of snow-clad peaks all around. N of Saskatchewan Crossing, the impressive North Saskatchewan River meandered through the huge valley just W of the Icefields Parkway. A medium-sized black bear ran across the highway from the (W) river side to the (E) mountain side of the highway. Lupe saw it. It was the first bear she had seen on this trip and she got a very good look at it. She barked ferociously. The bear took no apparent notice of the noisy dingo whizzing on by.

Climbing up past the big loop in Hwy 93, the skies suddenly darkened. It wasn’t any more than 4 or 5 more miles up to the Parker Ridge turnout. Lupe was soon at the Parker Ridge trailhead right alongside the Icefields Parkway, but the weather was suddenly very threatening. Dark clouds with heavy fingers of fog were rolling down the mountainsides from the NW.

Lupe and SPHP got out of the G6. SPHP checked out the map on display at the Parker Ridge trailhead. A chill wind was blowing. Within just a minute or two, a cold rain descended on Lupe and SPHP. Clearly conditions were not favorable for climbing Parker Ridge. Even if Lupe and SPHP could endure the cold wind and rain and get up on the ridge, there wouldn’t be anything to see in the fog. Lupe wisely jumped back in the G6 before she got bone-chilling soaking wet. Carolina Dogs know enough to come in out of the rain.

SPHP decided Lupe might just as well head on over Sunwapta Pass to the Icefields Centre near the Athabasca glacier, which wasn’t far away. At Sunwapta Pass, Lupe left Banff National Park and entered Jasper National Park for the first time. It was still quite early and people were just starting to arrive when Lupe and SPHP pulled in to the parking lot at the Icefields Centre. A cold rain was coming down steadily. The whole sky looked as dark and threatening as if a huge November blizzard was about to strike. Across the highway, the Athabasca glacier and surrounding snow-covered peaks loomed gloomily and mysteriously through the fog.

The Icefields Centre had just opened. Lupe stayed in the G6, while SPHP went in to see if there was any weather forecast available. Lupe’s bright cheerful summer day had changed to a very convincing display of the onset of winter in the span of 30 minutes. The weather looked so bad outside, SPHP had started thinking that if this was really a major front moving in, maybe the Athabasca glacier was as far as Lupe would get on here 2013 Dingo Vacation. The notion that Lupe was going to miss out on climbing Parker Ridge and seeing the Saskatchewan glacier was very disappointing.

SPHP talked to a young woman at the information desk and asked for a weather forecast for Jasper for the next few days. Someone else was interested in the same information. She got on her computer and checked it out. Today and tomorrow would be rather iffy with thunderstorms possible, with highs of 17°C (63°F) and 20 degrees C (68°F) expected. The following two days were supposed to be clear and 25°C (77°F). SPHP was relieved. The forecast was far less ominous than the weather outside. SPHP returned to join Lupe in the G6 and wait.

The rain continued for the better part of an hour. Lupe snoozed. SPHP read. By the time an hour was up, the rain had pretty much stopped. Lupe and SPHP could see a little patch of blue sky trying to peek through over the Athabasca glacier. The weather improved rapidly. The little patch of blue sky was growing and spreading out fast from the Athabasca glacier. Soon the mountainsides 1,000 feet above the Icefields Centre parking lot were becoming visible revealing a significant dusting of new snow.

Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP's very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.) — Clearing skies over one of Lupe and SPHP’s very favorite mountains in the Canadian Rockies, **Mt. Athabasca** **(11,453 ft.)**

Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow. Mt. Andromeda (11,286 ft.) and the Athabasca Glacier. — Crisp, clear and clean with a new dusting of snow on the heights. **Mt. Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** and the Athabasca Glacier.

Snow Dome (11,483 ft. on L) and Mt. Kitchener (11,417 ft. on R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13 — **Snow Dome** **(11,483 ft.)**(L) and **Mt. Kitchener** **(11,417 ft.)** (R) with the Dome Glacier between them. Jasper National Park 7-27-13

The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here. — The Icefields Centre in Jasper National Park. Tickets for snowbus tours that go right up onto the Athabasca Glacier, and guided walks on the toe of the glacier are available here.

Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain. — Clearing skies over Snow Dome, another favorite mountain, and the Dome Glacier. Snow Dome is the only spot on earth (outside of Antarctica) from which water flows to 3 different oceans.

Clear skies over Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier. Time for Lupe to go climb Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier!

SPHP was elated! Lupe was not only going to get to go up Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier, but the scene would be even more fantastic with a dusting of new snow on the mountains. Lupe and SPHP headed back to the Parker Ridge turnout. Other people were already gathering there for the hike up as well. The climb along the excellent trail only takes 45 minutes or so to reach the crest of Parker Ridge.

The Saskatchewan Glacier is visible flowing down from the Columbia Icefield near the head of the huge valley on the other side of Parker Ridge. Except it wasn’t. The valley below was full of fog when Lupe first arrived. Lupe and SPHP waited for it to clear. SPHP chatted with a couple of guys from Edmonton. After 20 or 30 minutes, the fog started dissipating. Eventually it disappeared entirely.

Looking SE from Parker Ridge down into the lower portion of the glacial valley. The glacier (not shown) has retreated to the upper end of this long valley.

Looking S directly across the valley from Parker Ridge.

The Saskatchewan Glacier flows down from the Columbia Icefield.

Lupe and SPHP wandered around up on Parker Ridge for quite a while. Different vantage points gave slightly different perspectives. Due to the lay of the terrain, climbing higher up on the ridge seemed to just hide more of the glacier from view. Some of the best vantage points were achieved by following a trail towards the E along the edge of the valley going away from the glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier from Parker Ridge 7-27-13

The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is visible way down below. — The E end of the Saskatchewan Glacier valley as seen from Parker Ridge. The Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 is faintly visible way down below.

Heading back down to the G6 along the Parker Ridge trail in northern Banff National Park, Canada.

On the way back down to the G6, Lupe was amidst a crowd of tourists coming up or going back down. Lupe made a few new acquaintances along the way. Once back to the G6, Lupe and SPHP headed N again on Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 over Sunwapta Pass (the border between Banff and Jasper National Parks). SPHP drove on down to the Icefields Centre again, but this time turned off the opposite side of the Icefields Parkway and went down to the parking lots below the Athabasca Glacier.

The parking lots were 80% full and there were a lot of people around. Not exactly a wilderness experience, but where else can you drive practically up to the toe of a big glacier? A short trail led Lupe to a viewpoint well short of the glacier’s edge. Fences and lots of signs warning of the extreme dangers posed by glaciers blocked any further advance. It was all typical over-the-top hype that applies to everything these days, but whatever. (Drizzle on Jersey turnpike! Millions affected! Take appropriate precautions and stay tuned for further updates!)

Toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Canada 7-27-13

Lupe near the toe of the Athabasca Glacier, Jasper National Park, Canada 7-27-13

People on the Athabasca Glacier. Presumably they bought tickets at the Icefields Centre to one of the guided walks on the glacier.

The Athabasca Glacier was making its own weather. A strong, chill wind blew down off it into Lupe’s face. Away from the glacier, summer had returned. Close to it, cold locked in the ice during winters long centuries ago made itself felt one more time.

Lupe returned to climb Parker Ridge on 7-29-14 for a second time during her 2014 Dingo Vacation to the Beartooths and Canadian Rockies. Click on the Parker Ridge link to see Lupe’s post on that ascent!

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Athabasca Falls & Miette Hot Springs, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-30-14)

The Athabasca River originates at the Columbia Glacier, part of the Columbia Icefield in the Canadian Rockies. By the time the Athabasca reaches Athabasca Falls 30 km S of Jasper on the W side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, it is already a large river. The Athabasca flows NE out of the Canadian Rockies to Athabasca Lake. Eventually the waters of the Athabasca reach Great Slave Lake and become part of the Mackenzie River system which flows NW into the Arctic Ocean. Athabasca Falls is 24 meters in height and a major tourist attraction. Parking lots and viewpoints can be accessed from Hwy 93A.

Lupe and SPHP woke up at 6:17 AM on July 30, 2014 to see sunrise on Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.). It was already an incredibly warm 47 °F out. SPHP first heard and then saw a big chunk of ice and snow falling off the side of Snow Dome (11,483 ft.) as dawn was breaking. The night had been clear and filled with amazing stars. Yesterday Lupe had been on wonderful hikes in the area to Parker Ridge and Wilcox Pass. It was time to press on to the N.

SPHP stopped at Sunwapta Falls to let Lupe see the falls again (she had been here in 2013) and stretch her legs on the trail for a little while. From Sunwapta Falls, Lupe and SPHP continued N to SPHP’s favorite picnic area in Jasper National Park. This picnic area is just off the W side of Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 perhaps 8 to 10 km S of Athabasca Falls. For some reason it is unmarked and easy to pass by, but it is located in a forested area right next to the E bank of the mighty Athabasca River.

Sunwapta Falls. The Sunwapta River starts at the Athabasca Glacier and is a tributary of the Athabasca River.

Lupe entertained herself playing with a tennis ball and barking at squirrels. SPHP had breakfast and watched the river roll on by. It was going to be a very hot day for the Canadian Rockies and the Athabasca was running high. SPHP dawdled with little chores at the picnic ground for a while. No one else was around. The shade of the forest was pleasant and the view of high mountains to the W of the river was inspiring.

Looking downstream along the Athabasca river from SPHP's favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park. — Looking downstream along the Athabasca river from SPHP’s favorite picnic ground in Jasper National Park.

Looking W across the Athabasca River from the picnic grounds.

It was just a 10 minute drive to Athabasca Falls from the picnic area. The place was packed with tourists. Lupe and SPHP had to wait for their turn at many of the lookout points. The falls were amazing, though. The huge flow of water thundered into the solid rock channel beneath the falls. Trapped in the narrow channel it churned and frothed before flowing out into a wide open area a short distance downstream. Below the falls and the narrow channel, whitewater rafters were heading out for a trip downriver.

The narrow channel below Athabasca Falls.

Rafters set out below Athabasca Falls. The river has been this gray, silt laden color every time Lupe has seen it.

Athabasca Falls is 24 meters high and rated Class V. Class V = Don't even think about it! — Athabasca Falls is 24 meters high and rated Class V. Class V = Don’t even think about it!

Lupe and SPHP spent about 45 minutes at Athabasca Falls before continuing on to Jasper. It was 85 °F a little after noon when Lupe arrived. Jasper was packed with tourists. SPHP took Lupe window shopping, all done on the shady side of the street. Lupe met and sniffed with many other doggies, so she wasn’t bored. By 1:30 PM it was 91 °F. SPHP took Lupe to a crowded beach at Pyramid Lake. Lupe did get to cool off in the water, but SPHP didn’t want to stay with the mob very long. SPHP bought ice cream. It melted very quickly. Lupe and SPHP had to consume all they could at once.

The heat sapped SPHP’s energy and all desire to go on any trails. Lupe wasn’t feeling any more ambitious than SPHP. She lay panting on a hot blanket in her fur coat in the G6. At 2:45 PM, SPHP decided to leave Jasper, turn on the AC for Lupe, and head NNE on Hwy 16. Lupe loved the AC and soon perked up. The temperature outside peaked at 94 °F. SPHP didn’t think it ever got that hot way up here, but it did. SPHP envisioned all the beautiful glaciers completely melting away. It wasn’t a happy thought.

44 km east of Jasper, SPHP turned S on the road to Miette Hot Springs. Another 17 km along a forested mountain road and Lupe arrived at the resort. Hot springs ordinarily wouldn’t have sounded good on a hot day like this one, but SPHP knew from past experience that Miette Hot Springs also has a couple of cool or even cold water pools. SPHP was looking forward to the cool water, but Lupe couldn’t be abandoned in the hot G6. It was going to be a long wait before things cooled down enough to leave Lupe alone for even a little while.

Lupe was very interested in the herd of mountain sheep that roamed the grounds. Although there were signs everywhere saying not to feed them, there was a picnic area where the mountain sheep were obviously very used to dining. They came right up to people and demanded an invitation to the picnic. They didn’t get anything from Lupe, who barked at the mountain sheep furiously whenever they got close. The mountain sheep were not used to such rude behavior and gave Lupe a wide berth.

SPHP figured it was best to separate Lupe from the mountain sheep. Lupe and SPHP headed down a road to a stream away from the picnic area. The stream was cold and clear. Lupe eagerly lapped up the cold water. SPHP repeatedly dangled both feet in the water until they were so cold the bones ached. Lupe and SPHP stayed next to the stream for hours. Bees buzzed. Butterflies flitted around. SPHP got situated as comfortably as possible among the boulders along the stream bank, which wasn’t all that easy. Lupe curled up nearby. She dozed with her head resting on SPHP’s hand.

The sun shone like a demon in the cloudless sky, but finally disappeared behind a high ridge to the SW. Things cooled off a bit. It was after 7:00 PM by the time it was cool enough to leave Lupe in the G6. She had water and was happy watching the mountain sheep. SPHP went and enjoyed Miette Hot Springs for an hour and a half. The cool pool was delightful. The cold pool soon made the hotter ones seem desirable. SPHP cycled back and forth between all the pools.

At 8:30 PM Lupe was glad to see SPHP returning to the G6. Watching mountain sheep has its limits when you can’t get at them for a fresh mutton dinner. For SPHP, Miette Hot Springs was a refreshing and wonderful time. Too bad Lupe couldn’t come to the pools, too, but SPHP would make it up to her. On the way back to Jasper, SPHP felt great and optimistic. It was a beautiful drive. Lupe rode in air conditioned comfort again, just happy to be with SPHP. Dingoes make the best friends!

There are three hot springs that Lupe and SPHP have been to in the Canadian Rockies: Miette Hot Springs NE of Jasper, Banff Upper Hot Springs in Banff, and Radium Hot Springs in Kootenay National Park. SPHP considers all of them very affordable and great bargains. While all are nice facilities, Miette Hot Springs is SPHP’s clear favorite of the three.

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Sunwapta Falls & Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-28-13)

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Wilcox Pass Trail, Jasper National Park, Canada (7-29-14)

An easy side hike SW from the high point on the Wilcox Pass Trail is the edge of a ridge featuring the most splendid panoramic snow-covered mountain and glacier view Lupe and SPHP have ever seen anywhere. Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, and Mt. Kitchener are on display in all their frozen glory. Although basically the same scene can be seen from down along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the view is even better from 1,400 feet above and well worth the effort.

The Wilcox Pass trailhead is located just E of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 along the gravel road that leads to the Wilcox Creek campground. The turnoff is just a mile or two N of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass, and just a couple miles S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.

The spectacular view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda and the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass — The spectacular view of **Mt. Athabasca (11,453 ft.)**, **Mt. Andromeda** **(11,286 ft.)** and the Athabasca Glacier from Wilcox Pass.

Lupe arrived at the Wilcox Pass trailhead on 7-29-14 less than 10 minutes after having just completed a wonderful short day hike to Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier. It was 12:06 PM, 72 degrees F, with totally clear skies and a dead calm when Lupe set out up the Wilcox Pass trail.

The trail starts out climbing steadily at a pretty good clip through a conifer forest. This is deservedly a very popular hike and there were lots of people hiking the trail. For the first third or more of the roughly 4 km to the top of Wilcox Pass, the trail is climbing through the forest with only glimpses of the spectacular scenery nearby.

Lupe and the view toward Snow Dome & Mt. Kitchener. 7-29-14 — Lupe and the view toward **Snow Dome** **(11,483 ft.)** & **Mt. Kitchener** **(11,417 ft.)** (R). 7-29-14

The first really good look at the fantastic scene to the SW comes at a rock ledge just a few feet off the trail shortly before the trail emerges from the forest. From the ledge you get a clear view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener.

Lupe only stopped here for a few minutes before continuing on. From this 1st viewpoint, the trail climbs at a slower pace and soon emerges from the forest. Scattered clumps of trees are still around, but the area is mostly open so most of the time the view to the SW is unobstructed.

The Athabasca Glacier flows down from the 325 square kilometer Columbia Icefield, the largest icefield in the Rocky Mountains of North America.

After almost completely leveling out, the trail, which has been heading NW, takes a jog more to the N for a rather steep stretch of climbing until it gets completely above tree line. Gradually the rate of ascent decreases as the trail turns back more to the NW once again. Shortly before reaching the high point on Wilcox Pass, Lupe came to a nice creek where she cooled off and got a drink.

The Wilcox Pass area in Jasper National Park, Canada. Mt. Athabasca (L) and Mt. Andromeda (R).

From the high point on Wilcox Pass, the trail continues NW over a broad, open, gently sloping area between Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) to the SW and a large rocky ridge to the NE extending out from Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.). If followed beyond the pass, the trail eventually leads down to the Tangle Creek area.

This view of the Wilcox Pass area looks NW in the direction of Tangle Creek.

However, the spectacular panoramic view Lupe had come to see, was not in the direction of Tangle Creek. Instead, Lupe turned SW at Wilcox Pass and followed an unmaintained trail which climbed a little bit before reaching the edge of a ridge 1,400 feet above the Icefields Centre. Here Lupe stopped to rest and survey the breathtaking scene.

Lupe and SPHP spent a long time gazing out at Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, and Mt. Kitchener. The Icefields Centre, the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, and the parking lot for the hike to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier were all in view, too. Special buses designed for glacier tours were crawling slowly like little black caterpillars up towards and onto the Athabasca Glacier. A portion of the huge Columbia Icefield from which the Athabasca Glacier descends loomed above the glacier.

P1050381 — Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda & the Athabasca Glacier. 7-29-14

Lupe and SPHP spent quite a bit of time at this glorious viewpoint. Lupe had some water, some Taste of the Wild and posed for photos. She soon spotted a strange creature she had never seen before coming towards her from the southern end of the Wilcox Peak area to the NNW. It was a large mountain goat! Lupe watched intently, but silently, as the mountain goat strolled very calmly on by heading SE. The mountain goat seemed completely unfazed by Lupe’s presence and eventually disappeared over a little ridge.

This large mountain goat approached from Mt. Wilcox. Lupe watched in amazement, but did not even bark. 7-29-14 — The large mountain goat approaching from Mt. Wilcox. Lupe watched in amazement, but did not even bark. 7-29-14

When it was finally time to leave this most glorious viewpoint, Lupe headed a little way up towards Wilcox Peak to see if a view of the huge Sunwapta River valley heading NW and the mountains beyond it could be easily reached. Reaching the spine of the ridge coming down from Wilcox Peak, Lupe saw that only a partial view was possible in that direction without a considerable further climb. Instead of doing that, Lupe headed ESE back down towards the country to the NW of the Wilcox Pass high point.

Lupe near Wilcox Pass. Athabasca Glacier and Snow Dome beyond her.

A new goal was in SPHP’s mind, and that was to go see Wilcox Lake, which is tucked in a cirque to the NW of Nigel Peak. Lupe crossed over to the NE side of the Wilcox Pass area. To get to Wilcox Lake, it was necessary to climb over a large ridge extending NW from Nigel Peak.

SPHP studied the ridge as Lupe approached it, looking for the best route up and over, without having to do too much climbing. Selecting a likely route that appeared to have some sort of trail leading up it, Lupe and SPHP were soon climbing up the ridge, which seemed quite a bit higher than it had looked like from afar.

P1050368 — Lupe, Mt. Athabasca (L) and Mt. Andromeda (R) from near Wilcox Pass.

The main problem though, was that the ridge consisted of extremely sharp rocks. SPHP began to worry that Lupe would cut up the pads on her paws on the jumble of extremely sharp rocks. Lupe did get to the spine of the ridge, but the view on the other side to the SE in the direction of Nigel Peak was discouraging. Wilcox Lake was nowhere in sight. A beautiful, but very barren rocky terrain lay in the direction where Wilcox Lake had to be.

If the rocks hadn’t been so sharp, Lupe would have pressed on to Wilcox Lake. However SPHP didn’t want her paws to get cut up and gave up on the idea of reaching the lake. SPHP now made an error in judgment. (Not exactly the first time!) Instead of just going back down the steep scree slope Lupe had just climbed, SPHP led her NW down a more gradual slope that looked like it would be an easier route down. Unfortunately, the sharp rocks continued in that direction too, and it proved to be quite a long hike NW before an easy way down off the ridge presented itself.

P1050375 — Lupe, Snow Dome & Mt. Kitchener from near Wilcox Pass. 7-29-14

Once back down on the heather, it was an easy matter to hike back to Wilcox Pass. Lupe drank from streams, and cooled off in shallow ponds on the way. Amazingly, the pads on her paws looked just fine after all those sharp rocks, and she showed no signs of discomfort. Quite the contrary, Lupe was full of energy and rambunctious.

It was now getting later in the day and most people had already left the Wilcox Pass area, although the sun was still well up in the sky. A few puffy white clouds were drifting by in a sea of blue. On this beautiful and amazingly warm early evening, Lupe started heading back across the open heather. She passed well to the E of the high point on the Wilcox Pass trail, but eventually worked her way back to the trail for the hike back down.

It was 6:58 PM and still 75 degrees F when Lupe reached the trailhead again. Lupe had been gone almost 7 hours, but had spent several extra hours enjoying the most glorious viewpoint and on her unsuccessful exploration up to the ridge in the direction of Wilcox Lake.

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