Dingo Vacations – Page 23 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Jim Creek to Agee Creek (7-7-22)

Days 20-22 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7-5-22, 7:34 AM – What a gorgeous morning in the Wind River Range! Across the North Creek valley War Bonnet Peak (12,369 ft.) soared into the blue flanked by Sundance Pinnacle (11,054 ft.) on the L, and more distant Pingora Peak (11,884 ft.) beyond Jackass Pass on the R.

**Sundance Pinnacle** (L), **War Bonnet Peak** (Center), **Pingora Peak** (R). Photo looks NW.

I’m going to miss Dog Tooth Paradise, SPHP!

Me too, Looper, but this is it, I’m afraid. We’re 100% completely, totally out of food.

We’ve got supplies at the RAV4, though, don’t we?

Of course we do, Loop. Just nothing left in the pack here. Brunch when we get to the trailhead!

Not a soul was on any of the trails, even super popular Big Sandy Trail No. 099. Lupe trotted ahead in fine spirits. SPHP’s spirits improved, too, after stopping to goop up with Eucalyptus cream which helped ward off the mosquitoes. When the opportunity arose, Loop once again took the less traveled route past Diamond Lake and V Lake. A long march, but a scenic one, and downhill or level nearly the entire way. Famished, Loopster arrived back at Big Sandy Opening at 11:07 AM.

By mid-afternoon, the American Dingo was in Lander. 94ºF on the way into town, but it didn’t seem that bad relaxing at the city park beneath the big old cottonwood trees. Loop could always wet her paws in the Middle Popo Agie River, which although quite a bit lower than it had been only 2 weeks ago, still had good flow.

7-6-22 – The morning turned cloudy shortly after sunrise. Only 64ºF at noon leaving Lander, but the day warmed up on the road N. 86ºF in the Wind River Canyon on the way to Thermopolis, hot enough for SPHP to enjoy a swim in Rattler Whirlpool, although Lupe preferred wading or laying in the shade watching.

Southbound train from **Rattler Whirlpool**. Photo looks NW.

The hour spent at Rattler Whirlpool was the highlight of the day, but wasn’t all that happened. On the way to Meeteetse, SPHP pulled off Hwy 120 for a while to allow a hailstorm ahead drift off to the E. Rained in Cody while picking up supplies. A little after that, Lupe was enjoying chocolate-coated mini-doughnuts while watching seagulls swooping over Buffalo Bill Reservoir from a pullout along Hwy 14/16/20 with a view of Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.).

7-6-22, 7:10 PM, Hwy 14/16/20, 7 miles W of the W end of Buffalo Bill Reservoir –

Well, shoot! Here’s the Shoshone River bridge. How could I have missed the turn, Loop? I was watching for it!

Don’t ask me, SPHP! I’m watching for cows and horses. What turn are you looking for, anyway? Where are we trying to get to?

At the moment, we’re just looking for the Jim Creek trailhead. Should have been a road going N less than a mile back, but I didn’t see one. Hang on, I’ll turn around.

The second pass did the trick. Heading W, the turn had been hidden by a ridge until almost the last moment, but Jim Mountain Road was easy to spot going E. A big brown building and an odd sign were at the turn.

At the start of **Jim Mountain Road** on the N side of Hwy 14/16-20 which goes to Yellowstone’s E entrance W of Cody.

Signage at the start of Jim Mountain Road.

Why so puzzled, SPHP? What do the signs say?

Well, one says this is the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead, which is where we’re trying to get to, although I thought it was Jim Creek, not mountain. The other says “Recreational Users: Please use Four Bear Trailhead 1/4 mile E”.

That is strange, SPHP. Does that mean recreational users aren’t allowed at the Jim Mountain Trailhead? Aren’t we recreational users? Maybe it’s only for business travelers?

Almost does seem to imply we aren’t welcome here, Loop, since we’re most definitely recreational users. After all, this is your Dingo Vacation, not your Dingo Business Trip. Why would that be, though? I’ve never heard of a trailhead that wasn’t for recreational users before. Furthermore, most business travel doesn’t involve an awful lot of wandering around in the mountains.

So, what are we going to do, SPHP?

Well, my Dingo partner in crime, let’s have a look at the Jim Mountain Trailhead before deciding.

Going N on Jim Mountain Road, which was good gravel, the road soon wound steeply up onto a sagebrush-covered ridge before resuming its course N. This whole area was a subdivision of nice homes spaced out on small acreages.

Looking for a turn L on USFS Road No. 405 roughly 1.5 miles from the highway, Wapiti Heights Drive appeared instead, which had to be the same thing, since another sign confirmed this was the way to the Jim Mountain Trailhead.

Evidently on the right track. Photo looks NW.

7-6-22, 7:42 PM, Jim Creek Trailhead, Shoshone National Forest – Wapiti Heights Drive wound around to the W losing elevation even faster than the climb up onto this ridge had been. The road passed more homes all the way to the end where No Trespassing signs were near a gate. The gate was open though, so SPHP simply drove through right on up a little rise to the trailhead.

The sun was already getting low when Lupe arrived. SPHP parked the RAV4 at one of 5 or 6 spots separated by long metal pipes evidently meant for vehicles pulling trailers, and the Carolina Dog leapt out. A lone outhouse stood on a small hill. Beyond it a couple of single track trails headed N up a sagebrush-dotted slope toward a 600 foot high wall of brown rock a mile away with a volcanic look about it.

The only trailhead information was the usual boilerplate about being in bear country, and a sign about investing in stocks.

**Jim Creek trailhead**. Photo looks NNW.

Important trailhead tip: Don’t forget to bring your horse.

Hmm. “Camping Permitted Only With Saddle/Pack Stock” Knew there was something I was forgetting, Loopster. I forgot to pack a horse!

While Lupe sniffed around the perimeter of the empty parking lot, SPHP noticed lots of prickly pear cactus among the sagebrush. 4 or 5 hitching posts were nearby, but no horse poop, hay, or trampled ground. Despite the homes on the ridge, Jim Creek felt like the trailhead that time forgot.

7-7-22, 8:05 AM, 71ºF, Jim Creek Trailhead – Hardly a cloud in the sky as SPHP got the pack ready. Brilliant morning sun on the line of brown cliffs to the NW highlighted the rugged volcanic stone. Lupe sniffed lazily about, or laid in the shade of the RAV4, watching.

About ready to leave the **Jim Creek trailhead**. Photo looks NW.

Bringing the tiny house again, SPHP?

Heh, yeah, it’s a long way to Trout Peak (12,244 ft.), Looper. Maybe I’ll just ditch the rain jacket here at the RAV4, though? No rain at all in the forecast the next several days. Do I really need to cart it all the way to Trout Peak and back? Might be better off packing extra sunscreen!

Your call, SPHP. How long will we be gone?

At least 3 days, maybe 4, Loop. Last year Josh Super did Trout in only 2. Took the scenic route way up on the ridges, but as SPHP Not-So-Hot, I’m not at all sure I can go that way, and absolutely positive we won’t make it to Trout Peak and back in any 2 days.

What route are we going to take then, SPHP?

You know, Loop, I’d always figured that we’d try for Trout from the N, from Dead Indian Pass, or come up Dead Indian Creek near Dead Indian campground along Chief Joseph Scenic Highway No. 296. That’s such a long trek, though, I wasn’t sure I could lug enough supplies to last us.

I sure wouldn’t be inclined to go that way if I were an Indian, SPHP! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, that’s the way to the Beartooths, isn’t it?

Right on, Looper! Anyway, I’d always wondered what the best approach was, and then one day I saw that Duane Gilliland, Mark Adrian, Desert Rat, Bob Bolton, and Richard Hensley had also been to Trout Peak last year right about this time. They took a series of trails from here at the Jim Creek trailhead that got them close to the mountain. After a look at their GPS tracks and reading their trip reports, I’m convinced we stand a good chance of actually getting to Trout Peak, if we follow their lead. Easier than how Josh Super went, and not as far as coming in from the N.

And you said there are trails most of the way, SPHP? Shouldn’t be that hard then, if they’re in decent shape.

My thoughts, too, Loop. A nice long march with a fair amount of up and down, but no super steep territory until we get close to Trout Peak.

Sounds good! Are you ready yet, SPHP?

Yes! A word to the wise, though, Loopster. Lots of cactus around here, so stick to the trail until we get past it. Onward! Puppy, ho!

Heading N on Trail No. 762, Lupe stayed right at SPHP’s heels. The day was warming up fast beneath the full sun, as the American Dingo went up a long sagebrush-dotted slope. Soon her pink tongue was hanging out. Hardly any shade at all, so whenever a lone, scraggly juniper tree did appear, Lupe wanted to take advantage of it.

A deserty experience, this first long trudge featured beauty, too. Insects hummed among a surprising variety of wildflowers, some of which were on the dreaded cacti.

Climbing steadily, progress was good as the trail headed for the N end of the badlandy volcanic cliffs. After gaining 700 feet of elevation, No. 762 leveled out and turned NW straight for them. A big cairn was up here, and the Jim Creek valley was now in sight to the N.

Approaching the volcanic cliffs. Photo looks NW.

**Jim Creek valley** from the cairn. Photo looks NNE.

Near the base of the cliffs, the trail turned N. More trees appeared. The trail bounced along for a bit with little net elevation gain through a land of interesting rock formations. The first, an improbable vertical pillar. Four Bear Benchmark (7,606 ft.) was in view off to the E.

This pillar is quite the landmark, SPHP! What shall we call it?

How about Middle Finger Rock, Looper?

That’s just rude, SPHP!

It was, but the name stuck.

**Middle Finger Rock** (R of Center). **Four Bears Benchmark** (far R). Photo looks ENE.

Among more rock formations. **Four Bear Benchmark** (R). Photo looks E.

Leaving the rock formations behind, the trail began climbing again as Lupe entered the Jim Creek valley. A nice forest provided welcome relief from the hot sun. At first, Jim Creek could only be heard somewhere well down the slope to the E, but after 0.5 mile, the Carolina Dog came to a ford. Jim Creek was too big for SPHP to rock hop, but not very deep. Wading across was easy, and the cold water felt good on the paws.

0.2 mile beyond the ford, Lupe came to a signed fork. No. 762 angled L here destined for the Jim Mountain (10,430 ft.) region. Trail No. 762.1A, aka the Jim Mountain cut-across, went R. SPHP checked the map.

Stay R here, Loop. Take No. 762.1A.

No. 762.1A continued N up the valley, gradually turning E. Jim Creek had gone the other way, and hadn’t been seen since the ford, anyway. For a while, there was little to be seen except trees.

The trail had been going SE, and was beginning to flatten out and turn E again, when Lupe reached a small clearing. HP9536 and HP9351 were now visible off to the NW. A little past the small clearing, the Carolina Dog came to a much larger one. After going through a gap in a barbed wire fence, No. 762.1A turned NE up a long open slope toward HP8245.

Thousands of white moths flitted among wildflowers and sagebrush. There were big views here with Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.), the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, and Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) all in the distance to the E. Table Mountain (8,504 ft.) was easily identifiable beyond the Shoshone River valley to the S. Already tiring from the long uphill march, even Lupe paused to relax and look around.

**HP9536** (L) and **HP9351** (R of Center) from the small clearing. Photo looks NW.

Back in open territory again. **HP8245** (L). Photo looks NE.

**Table Mountain** (L of Center) while Lupe takes a break. Photo looks SSW.

Instead of going all the way to the top of HP8245, Trail No. 762.1A curved E upon approaching the steepest part. Lupe traversed a slope of brilliant yellow wildflowers at this turn, beyond which the trail passed more rock formations. A final rocky knob appeared at HP8245‘s SE corner.

Yellow wildflowers at the curve E on **HP8245‘s upper S slope**. Photo looks NE.

**Sheep Mountain** (L), **Four Bear Benchmark** (far L). Photo looks SE toward the **Shoshone River valley**.

Hey, that knob’s kind of cool! Want to get up there, Looper? I’ll give you a boost.

Sure, but be careful. Don’t drop me, SPHP!

According to the topo map, this is the trail’s high point for today, Loop. Want to take a break here? Water and a chocolate coconut bar in it for you, if you do.

If there’d been any doubt about taking a break, which there really wasn’t, the chocolate coconut bar offer sealed the deal. After an assist getting off the knob, Lupe sat down next to SPHP.

So, were done climbing for the day? How high are we here, SPHP?

About 8,120 feet, Loop. I figure we’ve gained roughly 1,900 feet in about 3.5 miles from the trailhead so far. We aren’t done climbing, though, by any means. Quite a bit of elevation gain yet to come, but interspersed with some equally long downhill stretches, too. Won’t have much to show for our trouble other than distance traveled. We’ll have a net loss from here.

Easier than going uphill all the time, SPHP!

True enough, Looper, but you know I always hate to surrender hard won elevation gains just to rinse and repeat.

Nearly noon when Lupe hit Trail No. 762.1A again. Right away there were changes. For the first time, the trail began a long, gradual descent through a forest that had burned. Loopster started coming to deadfall. Fortunately, not enough to cause much of a problem. Hardly any shade, but on the other paw, the fire had opened up the views to some extent. So many dead trees were still standing, though, that the American Dingo seldom enjoyed a clear one.

Entering the burnt forest just beyond Rocky Knob. Photo looks NE.

A rare unobstructed view. Part of **Rattlesnake Mountain** (L), **Cedar Mountain** (Center), part of **Buffalo Bill Reservoir** (R). Photo looks ESE.

The trail soon curved sharply NW, descending into a valley where it then turned NE. Lupe had lost more than 400 feet of elevation by the time she reached a junction where an old sign was propped up against a tree. This was the end of Jim Mountain cut-across Trail No. 762.1A.

Heading into the next valley. Photo looks NW.

Well, Loop, seems we’ve got a choice of Trout Creek Trail No. 763 to the L, or Four Bear Trail No. 763.1B to the R.

Oh, that’s an easy one, SPHP! Trout Creek must be close to Trout Peak, so we better go that way.

Going L, as the Carolina Dog had correctly surmised, it was only 200 feet to a tiny stream. A stand of live trees here provided some shade. After a drink, Lupe curled up beneath a couple of small, leafy bushes.

This must be Gunnysack Creek, Loop. Not exactly a raging torrent is it? We’re pretty close to the source.

Enough to get a drink, and a raging torrent would only be a problem, SPHP.

Yeah, we’ll be coming to quite a few streams, so let’s hope none of them are torrents, unless there happens to be a decent bridge.

I wouldn’t count on that, SPHP.

Taking a break by tiny **Gunnysack Creek**.

Trail No. 763 continued N, but not straight N. As the map indicated, Lupe came to a series of streams separated by big ridges. A zig-zag pattern kept repeating itself on the way to each stream. First, the trail would climb NE up onto the next ridge, which might involve anywhere from a 100 to 300 foot elevation gain. The trail would then flatten out, heading N across the ridge before angling NW descending into the next valley where Lupe would ultimately reach the next stream.

Most of this region had once been heavily forested. However, nearly the entire forest had burned. Trail No. 763 did pass through scattered stands of live trees, always nice due to the shade provided, but these stretches were never very long. Up on the ridges, Lupe often journeyed through meadows where sweeping views were available toward the E.

From the very first ridge past Gunnysack Creek, an indication of trouble was ahead. The morning’s clear blue skies were long gone. Cumulus clouds were building, and the sky was starting to look dark to the N.

Crossing the **first ridge N of Gunnysack Creek**. Photo looks NNW.

The first stream N of Gunnysack Creek was a S tributary of Laughing Water Creek, which came next. Although larger than Gunnysack Creek, both were easily stepped over or rock-hopped.

At the **S tributary of Laughing Water Creek**. Photo looks WSW.

Cooling off in **Laughing Water Creek**. Photo looks WSW.

Burnt Creek came after Laughing Water Creek, and was also an easy rock hop. Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) finally came into view, which allowed SPHP to positively identify Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) as well.

**Trout Peak** (Center), **Robbers Roost** (R). Photo looks NW.

Continuing N, occasional glimpses of Trout Peak gradually improved. Meanwhile, the weather was looking more iffy. Thunder sometimes rumbled in the distance.

Starting the descent to **Stockade Creek**. Photo looks NW.

**Trout Peak** (L), **Robbers Roost** (R). Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.

Your decision to leave the rain jacket back at the RAV4 isn’t looking so great now, Einstein.

Yeah, wish I had that one back, Loop, but there hadn’t been a drop of rain in the forecast. Supposed to be sunny and hot for 4 days!

And it was, for 4 hours!

Stockade Creek was too big to rock-hop. Still an easy ford, but caused some delay as SPHP went through the routine of removing boots and socks to wade it barepaw. The cold water did feel good, although SPHP wasn’t looking forward to experiencing it dropping out of the sky.

A little past Stockade Creek, Lupe came to an old wooden bridge over a marshy spot. The sky now looked quite dark ahead.

Fording **Stockade Creek**. Photo looks SW.

Nothing happened, though. The sky brightened again crossing the next ridge. A temporary respite, perhaps. On the way to Singing Brook, Lupe came to a flat field of yellow and purple wildflowers. This appeared to be a great place to camp, but Trout Peak was still a long way off. Lupe needed to get farther before calling it a day.

Sunnier again on the way to Singing Brook. Photo looks NNE.

In the field of yellow and purple flowers. Photo looks N.

Thus far, the trails had been easy to follow, but No. 763 vanished as Lupe crossed the field. Continuing the same way, SPHP was surprised when there was no sign of the trail at the edge of a 10 foot deep ravine full of deadfall and bushes. Searching W (L), the trail was soon rediscovered at a better spot to cross the ravine.

It wasn’t much farther to Singing Brook, which also proved to be too big to rock-hop, but another easy ford. Once across, it also proved to be the only creek Lupe had come to with any signage.

By the **Singing Brook** sign. Photo looks W.

Beyond Singing Brook, Trail No. 763 went around the E end of the next ridge, then turned N entering the Trout Creek valley. Glimpses of Trout Creek were to the E, and from the white water and roar it was making, Trout Creek was clearly a far more serious proposition than any of the other streams Lupe had come to today.

Oh, my gosh, Loopster! Let’s hope there’s a bridge!

No such luck.

Aye yi yi, Looper! How are we going to get across this?

Trout Creek wasn’t huge, but it was absolutely full bank to bank of swift water plunging down a series of rapids. Trail No. 763 led straight into it at a sharp bend between a cascade immediately upstream, and a logjam immediately below. Sticking a trekking pole into the turgid stream a mere foot from the near bank, the water was easily mid-thigh on SPHP, and way over Lupe’s head.

Clearly any attempt to cross here would doom the Carolina Dog to being instantly swept downstream. A moment later, Lupe would be pinned underwater against the logjam by the full force of the merciless torrent, a certain death sentence from which no rescue would be possible.

What did the trip reports you read say, SPHP?

None of them made any mention of this, Loop. Maybe the flow was a lot less then?

We didn’t come all this way just to turn around, SPHP! There must be somewhere we can cross. Which way does the trail go on the other side?

NNW up the valley, Looper.

Let’s go upstream then, SPHP. There’s lots of deadfall, maybe we can find a big log that will get us across?

Seemed like the only possible solution. Traversing wet ground that had apparently been beneath the flood until very recently, Lupe worked her way around the near side of the cascade, clambering over a jumble of deadfall in the process.

Continuing upstream, the search began for a suitable deadfall bridge. Trout Creek was straighter and less threatening up this way, and quite a few logs had fallen over the creek, which was all encouraging.

Several hundred feet upstream, a big log appeared that looked like it might do.

Approaching the potential **Dingo Bridge** over **Trout Creek**. Photo looks NW.

A fall wouldn’t be any fun, but Trout Creek didn’t appear to be the death trap here that it was down where the trail crossed it.

From what we’ve seen, this is probably about as good as it’s going to get, Loop. Stay here, I’ll go first.

Taking baby steps, SPHP started across. The log seemed sturdy enough, if not as wide as SPHP would have liked. Halfway across, confidence and the urge to get to that opposite bank grew. A few quick, big steps, and the ordeal was over and done with.

Your turn, Loop!

Without the slightest hesitation, the Carolina Dog leapt up onto the log, and raced over Trout Creek like it was nothing.

Show off!

4 on the floor for added stability and confidence, SPHP!

Being safely past Trout Creek was cause for immediate joy and relief! Bounding up a short steep bank, Lupe then crossed a flat area chock full of more deadfall before reaching Trail No. 763 again. Back in business! Turning NNW, a gradual climb soon led to a big gap in the ridge to the E. The trail turned NE here, going right through the gap, leaving Trout Creek behind.

Once through the gap, the trail turned NW. Lupe had reached the Agee Creek valley, and soon came to a pleasant little stream. Happily, Agee Creek presented none of the dangers of Trout Creek.

Continuing NW, Agee Creek was easily heard nearby, but hidden in a ditch full of trees and bushes. The sky was looking more threatening again when Lupe came to a small clearing sporting a stone fire ring. A sign for another trail junction was in sight only 250 feet ahead.

7-7-22, 5:15 PM, Agee Creek – Hours of daylight left, but SPHP was weary. Loop had accumulated roughly 3,000 feet of total elevation gain over the course of 9.5 miles since leaving the trailhead this morning.

How are you feeling, Looper? We haven’t made it as far as I’d hoped, but at least we’ve made it to our minimum goal for the day. Looks like rain. Want to stop here?

You mean for the night, SPHP? I’m happy with that. Better than getting drenched!

SPHP had no sooner dropped the pack than big raindrops started to fall. Retreating to the shelter of a large pine, the shower lasted only 5 or 10 minutes. SPHP managed to get Lupe’s tiny house set up and the rain cover on before it started raining again.

Didn’t matter, Loopster had made it into the tiny house just in time. A hearty dinner with beef jerky for dessert! Then warm and dry, snuggly wrapped in her red sleeping bag, it was off to Dingo Dreamland while the rain came down.

Awaiting dinner at **low camp near Agee Creek**, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 7-7-22

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Mount Fitzpatrick, Salt River Range, Wyoming – Part 1: Greys River Road to Upper Crow Creek Lake (6-29-22)

Days 12-14 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

6-27-22, Dog Creek trailhead at the end of USFS Road No. 31030 – The sun was well up and shining brightly when SPHP came to.

About time, sleepyhead!

And I suppose you’ve been up for hours, aye, Looper?

A long time, SPHP.

Well, bully for you then, Miss Ambitious! You needn’t have woken up so early, though. After 4 days in the Snake River Range, we’re taking a break.

Good! I’m actually feeling lazy, too. I was just giving you a hard time, SPHP.

Perfect, we’re on the same page then, Loopster. You’re going to like the plan for the next couple of days.

Two rest days, SPHP?

Yeah, why not? The trip journal needs some serious catching up.

After a quick drive back to Hwy 26/89, SPHP spent an hour cleaning and reorganizing the RAV4 at the Pritchard boat ramp along the Snake River. Lupe didn’t even get out, preferring to laze around on her pink blanket. Then it was off to Alpine for a few groceries.

6-27-22, Greys River – Lupe was super enthusiastic when she hopped out of the RAV4 and saw that she was back at the same spot at the end of Road No. 10399. Nearly a week ago she’d spent the day after her ascent of Mount McDougal (10,780 ft.) here. The American Dingo dashed about sniffing excitedly, even briefly wading in the river before settling down to relax in the shade of old spruce trees along the riverbank.

This was rapidly becoming a favorite spot! Hiding from the sun with the help of blankets and clothing draped over the RAV4’s windows, Lupe spent a pleasant afternoon snoozing on her pink blanket while SPHP worked on the trip journal. In the evening, a stroll was taken both up and down Greys River Road

6-28-22, Greys River, end of Road No.10399 – During the night, Lupe had wanted out. SPHP obliged her, but the Carolina Dog didn’t actually go anywhere. Instead, she just laid on the ground near the RAV4 for a while all by herself beneath the stars, sniffing the cool night air and listening.

Morning had been sunny and bright again. Clouded up a little around noon. Another beautiful lazy day shot by next to the Greys River. Only a deer managed to entice Lupe out of the RAV4 during the heat of the day. Evening brought lightning and a rain shower, followed by a rainbow. After a drive along Greys River Road just for fun, Lupe had been up for another stroll as dusk came on. It was close to midnight by the time SPHP had the trip journal caught up.

6-29-22, 10:25 AM, Crow Creek trailhead along Greys River Road –

C’mon, Looper! Adventure time!

Barepawed, SPHP had already forded the first little side channel of Greys River, but Lupe was hanging back.

**Crow Creek trailhead** along Greys River Road. Photo looks NE.

Evidently the American Dingo was intent upon playing her stalking game again today. That was alright. She’d be along soon enough.

After putting socks and boots back on, SPHP almost immediately ran into a second side channel. Ugh, already the usual ford routine again! By the time SPHP was across this second stream, Lupe had caught up. A short, damp, almost marshy stretch of Crow Creek Lakes Trail No. 044 went S from here to a sturdy pawbridge over Greys River.

**Greys River** from the bridge. Photo looks S (upstream).

Once across the bridge, the trail headed W to a slope that gained 50 feet on its way up to a level stretch of forest. Many trees were dead, trunks scorched by fire. Beyond the forest, Trail No. 044 turned SW, passing through a large meadow leading to the mouth of the Crow Creek valley.

In the first level stretch of forest. Photo looks. E.

Glancing back at the forest while passing through the meadow. Photo looks NE.

Heading for the **Crow Creek valley**. Photo looks SW.

The trail dipped slightly after crossing the meadow. Crow Creek, a lovely, medium-size stream was now in sight.

**Crow Creek** (L) as Trail No. 044 enters the valley. Photo looks SW.

0.5 mile plus from the Greys River pawbridge, Trail No. 44 crossed Crow Creek. No bridge at all here! Lupe was going to have to ford the stream. Although the bottom was rocky, this wasn’t a difficult ford. The water wasn’t even knee-deep on SPHP.

Since Loopster was still playing her stalking game, SPHP was already on the far bank by the time the Carolina Dog arrived. Instead of plunging in, Lupe laid down in the shade of some bushes.

At the **first Crow Creek ford**. Photo looks NE.

C’mon over, Loop! Nothing to it. You’ll like it!

Is that so? I notice you don’t plunge entirely into many frigid streams, SPHP. Why should I? Where are we going, anyway? You haven’t said, yet you’ve got the tiny house. How long are we going to be gone this time?

Oh, remember before we climbed Mount McDougal (10,780 ft.) how I first gave up on climbing Mount Fitzpatrick (10,907 ft.), because I was afraid of how much snow we might have to face on a steep N face? I’m hoping enough snow has melted since then to give us a decent shot at Fitzpatrick. Should only take us a couple of days.

So, just one day in, then all the way back tomorrow, SPHP?

Yep, that’s the plan! We’ll only go as far as the Crow Creek Lakes today, summit tomorrow, and out. How does that sound?

The American Dingo apparently liked the plan. Without further ado, Lupe easily forded Crow Creek and the trek resumed, but only for a few hundred feet before a second ford appeared.

SPHP was getting sick and tired of constantly taking boots and socks off, only to put them right back on again, but did it once more. Lupe waited until SPHP ventured across to take on Crow Creek a second time.

Braving the **second Crow Creek ford**. Photo looks E.

Happily, this second ford was the last one. Trail No. 44 now headed W up the valley, eventually curving NW. Most of the time, Lupe was out in the open, among wildflowers and lush vegetation. Although never far away, Crow Creek was generally hidden by bushes and seldom in view.

Obstacle-free and easy to follow, the trail both gained and lost elevation, but was usually flat, or a gradual incline. Progress was rapid. Overhead, a previously sunny sky was clouding up.

Along the N side of the **Crow Creek valley**. Photo looks ESE.

Heading deeper into the **Salt River Range**. Photo looks NW.

Roughly 2 miles from the trailhead, the Crow Creek valley split in two. The confluence of North and South Crow Creeks was in this area, but never visible from the trail. Sticking with the trail, SPHP followed it W up the North Crow Creek valley. Meanwhile, Lupe continued to hang back, playing her stalking game.

The rate of climb increased. No. 044 crossed several tributaries of Crow Creek. All were small, a few muddy stretches of trail being the worst of it. While there were still meadows, the trail now went through longer and more frequent stretches of forest. Deadfall sometimes slowed SPHP down, but most of it wasn’t that hard to get by.

A **tributary of North Crow Creek** flowing right along Trail No. 044. Photo looks WSW.

Loop cooling off in another minor stream. Photo looks E.

Passing through a rare stand of aspens. Photo looks W.

After a while, it began to sprinkle. SPHP took shelter beneath a large spruce tree when a harder downpour began, and Lupe soon caught up. 10 or 15 minutes, and the rain moved on. So did the Carolina Dog.

Eventually, glimpses of a huge mountain began appearing ahead. Upon seeing it, SPHP’s heart sank. If that was Mount Fitzpatrick (10.907 ft.), this whole endeavor was doomed. Lupe wouldn’t stand a chance! The whole N face was very rugged, rocky, and borderline cliff-like steep.

A **huge rugged mountain** appears ahead. Photo looks W.

A closer look with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks W.

Trail No. 044 headed almost straight for the monster. As Lupe closed in, a headwall extending N came into view. Both Crow Creek Lakes were somewhere above that headwall.

A bit of deadfall to contend with. Going around it did the trick. Photo looks W.

The trail sometimes faded while crossing meadows. Photo looks W.

Getting closer. Headwall on the R. Photo looks W.

4 miles from Greys River Road, Lupe entered a big meadow providing a great view of both the mountain and the headwall, which were now only 0.25 mile away. Just getting above the headwall looked like a challenge. A continuous line of cliffs ran along it.

Near the far W end of this meadow, a brown “No Motor Vehicles” wand marked the end of Trail No. 044 at a junction with Trail No. 079, which went either S or N from here. 100 feet W of the wand, a sign was nailed to a tree.

In the big meadow before reaching the junction with Trail No. 079. Photo looks W.

Loop down by the sign tree. Photo looks W.

The sign identified Trail No. 079 as Way Trail.

The sign merely confirmed what SPHP already knew. Lupe needed to take Trail No. 079 R (N) to Pass 9060.

Despite 2 rest days, and an easy trek thus far, SPHP was already getting worn out lugging a heavy pack. Heh, too bad! Things were just starting to get interesting. Continuing W a short distance into the forest, Trail No. 079 steepened considerably as it then curved N into a long meadow.

The American Dingo’s stalking game continued. Loop was getting plenty of rest breaks due to SPHP’s frequent pauses to gasp for breath. The sky was clearing again, and the sun felt mighty warm on the uphill trudge.

Trail No. 079 curves N toward **Pass 9060** (R). Photo looks NNW.

Looking back on the way up to **Pass 9060**. Photo looks S.

3:03 PM, Trail No. 079 at Pass 9060 – Shedding the pack, SPHP sat down on a log. Pass 9060 was forested, and sitting in the shade was a welcome relief. Time for a longer rest break! When Loop sauntered in, she had no objections to laying down and enjoying some Taste of the Wild.

Pass 9060 was a fairly narrow ridge running E/W. The N side was quite rocky, and Lupe was thrilled to find a snowbank still melting away. Off to the NW, Peak 10180 was in sight. Trail No. 079 continued N beyond the pass, starting a descent into the Rock Creek valley.

Arriving at **Pass 9060**. Photo looks NNW.

On the snowbank just N of the pass. Photo looks W.

**Peak 10180** (Center). Photo looks NW.

This was it, though, as far as Trail No. 079 was concerned for Lupe. As soon as SPHP felt sufficiently recovered, it was time to start looking for a way up the headwall. Apparently inspired by the steeper, rocky terrain, the American Dingo no longer held back, instead leading the way as she began climbing W along the Pass 9060 ridge.

A use trail appeared. Following it, the cliffs of the headwall soon came into view.

Approaching the headwall. Photo looks WSW.

Reaching the base of the cliffs, they appeared continuous toward the S. The use trail turned NW up a rocky ramp. From Pass 9060, cliffs had been visible to the N, too, but after gaining some elevation and getting up to where these cliffs were, the ramp and use trail both turned SW.

Heading NW up the lower part of the ramp. Photo looks NW.

The upper ramp turns SW. Photo looks SW.

Sort of steep, but the ramp wasn’t bad. No real scrambling involved at all. Suddenly, Lupe was above the headwall! Still climbing, the use trail turned W continuing up a big ridge. Steep meadows were to the S, with genuine cliffs just N of the ridgeline.

Above the headwall, continuing up a big ridge. Photo looks W.

After gaining nearly 200 feet of elevation from the top of the headwall, the rate of climb diminished. Another mountain was now in sight W of the one seen earlier from the North Crow Creek valley. Pausing to check the topo map, SPHP finally understood.

Oh, I get it now, Loopster! That first mountain is actually Peak 10525. Mount Fitzpatrick (10,907 ft.) is the one beyond it.

**Peak 10525** (Center), **Mount Fitzpatrick** (R). Photo looks SW.

Is that a good thing, SPHP?

Eh, hard to say. See quite a bit of snow on Fitzpatrick’s N face, and it looks mighty steep, too. Can’t be any worse than Peak 10525, though. No way we were ever going to make it up that one.

Well, it is a good thing then, SPHP! At least we stand a chance now!

Yeah, I guess you’re right, Looper. Surprised we haven’t seen any use trail peeling off to the SSW yet. Lower Crow Creek Lake is supposed to be over that way nestled at the base of Peak 10525. Sort of wanted to see it.

Nothing stopping us from going over there, SPHP. Want to do that?

Oh, I don’t know, Loop. Think we’ve already climbed too far. Kind of hate to give up any of our elevation gain, and I suspect we’re already well above the lower lake. If we see a trail going that way, maybe we’ll take it, but we could just head for Upper Crow Creek Lake instead. Hoping to put your tiny house up there, anyway, since it’s closer to Fitzpatrick.

Suit yourself, SPHP! Fine with me. Onward, then!

Staying high, Lupe continued WSW along the flattest part of the ridge.

Continuing along the high ground. **Peak 10525** (L) and **Mount Fitzpatrick** (Center). Photo looks WSW.

Before long, the flat ground came to an end. Ahead, the terrain sloped quite a bit. Lupe was going to have to lose at least some elevation just to get over to the next flat area, a forested region already in sight.

By now the use trail had faded away. Side-hilling wasn’t SPHP’s favorite, but didn’t bother the Carolina Dog at all. The only other choice would have been to angle WNW following the ridge clear to the top of Peak 10143. Eh, that wasn’t happening, so the downward traverse began.

On the traverse leading to the flatter stretch of forest ahead. **Peak 10525** (L of Center), **Mount Fitzpatrick** (R). Photo looks WSW.

When Loopster got to it, the forested area wasn’t entirely flat, either. Exploring, she came to a snow-filled clearing in a depression. Since there still wasn’t any sign of a trail going S to the Lower Crow Creek Lake, Lupe kept going W. At the base of Peak 10143, she discovered a scenic tarn so secret that it wasn’t even shown on the map.

In the snowy depression. Photo looks SW.

Near the secret tarn below **Peak 10143**. Photo looks NW.

Passing S of the tarn on rocky terrain, Lupe got almost down to the tarn’s level. A meadow went W from the tarn to another fairly steep slope. An 80 foot rocky climb led to a broad flat region.

Got it made now, Looper! This is Pass 9540. All downhill from here!

After crossing the super flat saddle, a gentle descent toward Peak 10525 ensued through a meadow bordered by forest and long snowbanks.

Starting the beautiful descent from **Pass 9540**. **Peak 10525** (L), **Mount Fitzpatrick** (R). Photo looks SW.

At the lower SW end of the meadow, a minor escarpment of flat rocks came just before a somewhat steeper, but still easy, descent into a band of trees. Emerging from the trees, a glorious scene was ahead.

Wow! So, this is Upper Crow Creek Lake, SPHP? It’s absolutely gorgeous!

Yeah, our home for an evening, Loop! I’m loving it, too!

Right at the base of the highest, most magnificent part of Peak 10525, Upper Crow Creek Lake was nearly surrounded by snowfields still filling most of the valley. The lake even sported a few icebergs A mile WSW, loomed the N face of Mount Fitzpatrick (10,907 ft.).

**Upper Crow Creek Lake**. **Peak 10525** (L), **Mount Fitzpatrick** (R). Photo looks SW.

5:22 PM – After circling around a little NE bay, SPHP pitched Lupe’s tiny house amid newly emergent buttercups on a snow-free patch of ground next to a stand of old spruce trees on a bank overlooking the N shore of Upper Crow Creek Lake. Only a few feet away, a couple of weathered logs, their ends set at a 90º angle to each other, partially protected a white stone fire ring.

Despite the glorious surroundings, a certain weariness had set in for both human and Dingo. Once the tiny house was up, both crept inside for a nap, enjoying the comfort of sleeping bags. A cool S breeze coming from across the lake made the tiny house flap, but a blissful sound sleep was not to be denied.

6:44 PM – Ahh, much better! The American Dingo and SPHP were both up and about again, feeling much refreshed. What remained of a long summer evening was now free to spend exploring the fabulous Upper Crow Creek Lake region.

By the tiny house amid the buttercups. Photo looks SW.

Naturally, a trip down to the N shore of Upper Crow Creek Lake was in order. It was a journey Lupe would make more than once this evening.

Along the **N shore**. **Mount Fitzpatrick** (R of Center). Photo looks WSW.

Near the **W end of the lake**. Photo looks SW.

Looking back at **Peak 10143** (Center & L) and the tiny house (R). Photo looks ENE.

Is that a bear I hear, or is it getting to be about dinner time, SPHP?

That’s my tummy, Loop. Yeah, something to eat wouldn’t be a bad idea. In fact, most anything would do at this point. I’m famished!

Lupe sniffed around the tiny house, while SPHP rustled up some grub.

After dinner, another trip was made down to Upper Crow Creek Lake’s N shore to see the icebergs and admire Peak 10525’s rugged splendor as the last rays of sunshine crept up the mountain.

**Peak 10525** (L) on a splendid evening from **Upper Crow Creek Lake**, Photo looks SSW.

No marmots, pikas, or gophers had been seen or heard, but somehow the crazy Carolina Dog became utterly convinced throngs of ’em were hiding near the tiny house. The evening ended with frantic sniffing and furious digging at various holes. Meanwhile SPHP stared off to the WSW toward Mount Fitzpatrick’s N slope.

A lot of snow up there, and mighty steep for a long way. Loopster was having a grand time digging, but her efforts were all coming to naught. Maybe this whole trip was going to end up the same way?