Oh, Canada! – The Long Road North: To The Canadian Rockies & Beyond! (7-30-22 thru 8-3-22)

Days 1-5 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

7-30-22, 2:30 PM, 92ºF, home – Hours of preparations and excitement had led to this!  Resting high on her pink blanket covering a pile of supplies and padding, Lupe smiled broadly in happy anticipation of what was next.  The American Dingo was about to set off on her 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation, and this wasn’t just any old Dingo Vacation, oh no!

Are we really going to Canada and Alaska, SPHP?  It’s been 3 years!  I was afraid we might not ever see them again!

SPHP tried to sound convincingly cheerful.

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  At least, if Canada will actually let us cross the border.  Think I’ve got everything all lined up.  We’ll just have to see how it goes.  Should be fine, Canada is officially open again!

Before turning the key, SPHP looked over at Lupe.  She was so beautiful, and so happy!  This late July afternoon truly was a rare and wonderful occasion, only the 5th time the Carolina Dog had ever set off for Alaska!

Epic!  Yet also bittersweet.  SPHP was filled with grief and remorse.  The left side of Lupe’s face had an ugly wound on it.  Brand new.  And it was all SPHP’s fault on this otherwise joyful day.

Loopster ready to set out for Canada & Alaska for the first time in 3 years!

Happened just yesterday.  At some point in the last month or so Lupe must have rolled in something, because she’d had a black, sticky, tar-like substance clinging to a small clump of fur on her face for the last several weeks.  When it wouldn’t wash off, wanting Loop to look her finest for her next big Dingo Vacation, SPHP had gotten out a scissors to cut away that little clump of gooey fur.

The tar was tougher, and provided more resistance than expected, but a few seconds of cutting with the scissors had finally done the trick.  The tar came off, but when it did, SPHP was instantly shocked and horrified.

Oh, no!  Oh my gosh, Lupe!  What have I done?  I’ve cut your beautiful face wide open!  You didn’t flinch, or bark, or shy away from me.  You should have bit me!  Instead you just looked trustingly into my eyes and let me do this terrible, painful thing to you.  I’m so sorry!  How could I have been so careless and such an idiot?  We’re going to the puppy doctor!

At the emergency clinic, the puppy doctor cut away a loose flap of skin with beautiful fur still clinging to it that was going to die anyway, fully exposing the hideous wound.  The wound wasn’t deep, just a fleshy spot the size of a nickel seeping a little blood.  Staples or stitches to close the gap weren’t required, but Lupe’s fur wasn’t likely to ever grow back.  She would always have a scar.

Lupe went home with an anti-biotic cream and pain pills.

SPHP was guilty, guilty, guilty, but there was nothing more to be done.

Oh, Lupe!  We’re going to have so many grand adventures in Canada and Alaska on this Dingo Vacation!  Going to be just like old times!  You ready?

I can hardly wait, SPHP!

SPHP turned the key, and backed the RAV4 out of the driveway.  After 3 long years, the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood was on her way!

7-31-22, 7:18 AM, 52ºF Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Exactly 3 weeks ago, on the last day of her prior Dingo Vacation to Wyoming, Lupe had been by here on an evening so cold and windy that SPHP had chickened out and driven her straight home.  The Carolina Dog was back, though!  From the Bald Mountain campground off Hwy 14A, Loop trotted toward the familiar open slopes of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Setting out for Bald Mountain (L). Photo looks SE.

Are we going to fix the names, SPHP?

We are!  Hard to believe, but it’s been 4 years since we’ve been up on Bald Mountain, Loopster.  A little maintenance is likely in order.

Make that quite a bit of maintenance.  The names were still there, but in poor condition when Lupe found them not too far from the NW end of the vast summit region.  The American Dingo had plenty of time to sniff about while SPHP made extensive repairs.

Loopster by her reconstituted name on Bald Mountain. Photo looks SE.

Once the names were back in order, Lupe naturally completed the easy stroll to the true summit.  Medicine Mountain (9,962 ft.) and it’s giant FAA golf ball were in sight several miles back to the NW, but all the more distant views were hazy.

Medicine Mountain (L of Center) from Bald Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks NW.

The entire American West fills up with smoke every summer, doesn’t it Looper?  Didn’t use to be that way.

Oh, but aren’t we the lucky ones, SPHP?  Bet we won’t have to worry about smoke once we get far enough N into Canada!

Sure hope you’re right, Loop, and suspect you are, but you never know.  Remember how smoky even Alaska was in 2019?

5:01 PM, 81ºF, Little Belt Mountains, Montana – Bald Mountain had been a great morning romp!  Most of the rest of the day had been a long, hot drive from Wyoming on into Montana.  So many cows and horses to bark at!  It had been a wonderful, if shrill time.  Late afternoon now, but Lupe had made it here early enough to honor a long-standing tradition.

Kings Hill Pass (7,393 ft.)!  We really, truly are going to Canada, aren’t we, SPHP?  We always come here first!

Almost always, Loop.  We didn’t the first time in 2013, but ever since then, yeah.  The Little Belt Mountains are a nice, cool spot to spend a night.

We always climb Kings Hill (8,008 ft.) or Porphyry Peak (8,192 ft.) when we do come here, SPHP.  So which will it be?  Any preference?

Yes, but we really don’t have to choose between them.  Should have time to visit both!  Whad’ya say we climb Kings Hill first?

Kings Hill true summit. Photo looks S.
Porphyry Peak (L) from Kings Hill. Photo looks WNW.
Porphyry Peak fire lookout tower. Photo looks ENE.
Big Baldy Mountain (Center) from Porphyry Peak. Photo looks NNE.

8-1-22, 12:05 PM, I-15 at Port of Coutts, Montana/Canada border – Only 2 Canadian customs lanes were open.  The RAV4 was 6th in line.

Moment of truth coming up, Loopster!  Hope they don’t make us wait.  Told them on Arrive-CAN that we wouldn’t be here until 3:00 PM.

Waiting won’t be so bad, SPHP, provided Canada ultimately lets us in.  You had to specify the exact hour of arrival?

Yeah.  Knew we’d be here by noon, but decided to give ourselves some slack just in case.  Don’t know what we’ll do if Canada says no, and just sends us away.  We’ll have to plan an entirely different Dingo Vacation, pronto.

Canadian customs, Port of Coutts opposite Sweetgrass, Montana.

For 10 minutes the line seemed stuck.  No movement.  Then suddenly whatever had been the hold-up was over.  Soon SPHP was handing a US passport to the Canadian customs agent.  2 minutes later, the RAV4 was picking up speed, heading N!

Whoo-hoo!  We’re in, Loop!  You’re back in, Canada!  On to Lethbridge!

That was easy, SPHP!  Same old questions they always ask you.

Yup!  Not a word about Covid-19.  All that hassle and worry over nothing.

Our reputation as world class anti-social distancers must have preceded us, SPHP.

Oh, yes!  I’m sure that’s it, Looper.  Anyway, I’m glad it went the way it did.  Smooth sailing now!

So, what’s next, SPHP?  Where are we going first?

Mostly just driving again today, Loopster.  Been so long since we’ve been to Canada and Alaska that I want to make tracks N as fast as we can the next few days.  That doesn’t mean we can’t take the scenic route, though.  How about something old and something new this afternoon?

You’re being coy, SPHP, but OK, surprise me!

Hwy 40 over Highwood Pass was the scenic route.  Kananaskis Country!  Peter Lougheed Provincial Park!  The American Dingo hadn’t been to beautiful Upper Kananaskis Lake since 2014, but saw it again today.

Storm Mountain (10,153 ft.) (Center) from Hwy 40 on the way to Highwood Pass. Photo looks NNE.
Gap Mountain (8,661 ft.) (L) from Highwood Pass. Photo looks NW.
Gorgeous Upper Kananaskis Lake. Photo looks NW.

After a pleasant half hour at Upper Kananaskis Lake, the something new was a trip along washboardy Smith-Dorrien Road, the purpose being to see the Spray Lakes Reservoir for the first time ever.  An odd trail from a picnic ground led a short distance down through a forest to a small cliff overlooking the lake.  A better lakeshore viewpoint appeared only a few miles farther N along the road.

Spray Lakes Reservoir. Big Sister (9,633 ft.) (R of Center). Photo looks N.
On the odd trail overlooking Spray Lakes Reservoir. Photo looks SW.
A better view from right along the shoreline. Photo looks S.

By evening, Lupe was in Banff!

Oh, SPHP!  I love Banff!  Can we do my traditional Pretty Puppy Parade up and down Banff Avenue?  Haven’t done it in ever so long!

Absolutely, Loopster!  Can’t miss out on the Pretty Puppy Parade!

Banff had changed since the last time Lupe was here.  Vehicles were no longer permitted in the heart of downtown.  People were dining at tables out in the street, and a new footbridge was under construction over the Bow River.  Banff was still it’s same old festive self, though, with scenic Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) looming in the distance, lined-up perfectly with Banff Avenue.

The Pretty Puppy Parade, a stroll along Banff Avenue while taking in all the tourists, fancy shops, and sniffing with other dogs as opportunity arose, was a success as always.  3 young men from Maryland wanted to pet Lupe.  They told her how beautiful she was, which made her day!

Back in Banff on the Pretty Puppy Parade! Cascade Mountain (R). Photo looks N.
Bow River looking W toward the new footbridge.

8-2-22, 6:30 AM, Banff – Although the night had been warm, the morning was pleasantly cool as the RAV4 hit Hwy 1 on the way out of Banff.  An incredibly scenic drive was ahead.

Only one day to spend in the Canadian Rockies?  Not nearly enough, SPHP!

Oh, don’t I know it, Loopster?  Remember back in 2013 and 2014 when the Canadian Rockies were as far as we went on your Dingo Vacations?

We enjoyed many glorious adventures here, SPHP!

Indeed we did, Loop!  Even though we’re making tracks N, we’ll still stop at some of our favorite Canadian Rockies highlights today.

I suppose that’s something, SPHP, but sometime we need to come back to really explore again.

So many mountains, so little time!  Lupe was far from alone in wanting to spend more time in the Canadian Rockies.  Even though she reached the turn for Moraine Lake at 7:30 AM, the road was closed.  Signs said the Moraine Lake parking lot was already full.  Even the upper lot at Lake Louise was filling up fast, despite having to pay now.

Crowds had already gathered along the lake shore near the splendid Chateau Lake Louis when Lupe arrived.  Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) was still as spectacular as ever beyond the turquoise lake.

Mount Victoria (Center) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.
Chateau Lake Louise.

Remember when we used to take the Plain of Six Glaciers trail all the way to the end to see the Death Trap, SPHP?

Of course, I do!  So much fun, we did it twice!  Even saw a wolverine once near the end of the day on the way back down to Lake Louise.  Remember our biggest adventure here, though, Loop?

How could I forget Fairview Mountain, when I’m looking right at it, SPHP?  The views of Mount Victoria, Mount Temple (11,614 ft.), and so many others were absolutely incredible from up there!  We explored Saddle Mountain (7,963 ft.), too!

Fairview Mountain (L) and Mount Victoria (R) from Lake Louise. Photo looks SW.

It was a shame Moraine Lake was too crowded to visit, but continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, Lupe got to stop at beautiful Bow Lake, another jumping off region for several fabulous Dingo adventures once upon a time.  Mount Jimmy Simpson was in sight beyond red-roofed Num-Ti-Jah Lodge from the picnic ground along the E shoe.

Mount Jimmy Simpson (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks NW.

From over by the lodge, Bow Peak (9,318 ft.) and the Crowfoot Glacier were in sight to the SE.  Bow Glacier Falls and the Bow Glacier above it were visible to the SW.

Bow Peak (L) and the Crowfoot Glacier (R) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SE.
Bow Glacier and Bow Glacier Falls (Center) from Bow Lake. Photo looks SW.

Can we go to Bow Glacier Falls, SPHP?  That’s an awesome trail!

I’d love to, Loopster, but think we should press on.  How about we take the Parker Ridge trail, instead?  Won’t take quite as long.

Parker Ridge (7,612 ft.) near the N end of Banff National Park was a bit of a drive yet.  However, by 10:45 AM, Lupe was on the popular trail that switchbacks roughly 900 feet up to the crest of the ridge.  A short distance beyond the crest she came to the fabulous scenic reward – a splendid view of the Saskatchewan Glacier.

Saskatchewan Glacier (L) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.

A fun off-trail jaunt on grassy slopes among minor rock formations up to Parker Ridge’s E high point provided an even more spectacular vantage point.  Almost completely snow-clad Castleguard Mountain (10,098 ft.) was in sight across the canyon at the far upper end of the Saskatchewan Glacier.  On this side of the canyon, both Hilda Peak (10,039 ft.) and mighty Mount Athabasca (11,453 ft.) were in view.

Heading for the Parker Ridge E high point (Center). Photo looks E.
At the Parker Ridge E summit. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (L), Mount Athabasca (R), Hilda Peak (far R). Photo looks WSW.
Zoomed in a little. Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.

Mount Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.) loomed in the distance beyond a long section of the North Saskatchewan River canyon visible below the lake at the toe of the glacier.

Mount Saskatchewan (far L), Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier (far R). Photo looks SSW.

Looking NW, Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) was in sight beyond Sunwapta Pass.  Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.) stood out just N of the pass.

Mount Athabasca (L), Hilda Peak (beyond cairn), Sunwapta Pass and Mount Wilcox (beyond Lupe), Nigel Peak (R). Photo looks NW.

Tremendous views all around, but it was hard not to just keep coming back to that magnificent spectacle of the Saskatchewan Glacier!

Castleguard Mountain (L) and the Saskatchewan Glacier (L of Center) from Parker Ridge. Photo looks SW.
Castleguard Mountain and Saskatchewan Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Parker Ridge was the big outing of the day, but far from the last scenic stop.  Sunwapta Pass where Jasper National Park began was only a bit farther N, and just down the road from the pass the Athabasca Glacier was in view right from the highway.  A must see!

Mount Andromeda (L) and the Athabasca Glacier (Center). Photo looks SW.
Athabasca Glacier. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

The Athabasca Glacier was it for the day as far as glaciers.  Continuing N on Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93, some incredible waterfalls were the new focus.  Sunwapta Falls came first, followed by Athabasca Falls.  Both were foaming gray torrents, thundering into narrow gorges below.

Between these falls, Lupe got to stop at her favorite picnic ground along the Athabasca River.  The American Dingo enjoyed a romp through the forest looking for squirrels, but didn’t see any.

Sunwapta Falls. Photo looks NE.
Near the brink. Photo looks NE.
Athabasca River from Lupe’s favorite picnic ground. Photo looks S.
At Athabasca Falls.
Mount Kerkeslin (9,698 ft.) from Athabasca Falls. Photo looks SE.

After a quick refueling stop in Jasper, the RAV4 rolled on, taking Lupe W into British Columbia on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16.  The American Dingo got out briefly for a look at Moose Lake, and yet again for a pleasant trek down to Overlander Falls, where she scrambled among the rocks by the huge swirling whirlpool below it.

Moose Lake. Photo looks WNW.
Overlander Falls in Mount Robson Provincial Park.
How Overlander Falls got its name.
Down by the whirlpool.

The evening ended on a gloomier note with Mount Robson (12,989 ft.), highest peak of the Canadian Rockies, shrouded in clouds and light rain.

At least we got to see Mount Robson before, SPHP.  Remember when we went through the Valley of a Thousand Falls all the way to Berg Lake?

Yes!  A fantastic trail, Looper.  We ought to do that again someday.

8-3-22, 7:31 AM – Fog drifted among the mountains.  Still overcast, gray clouds spit light rain.  Good day for a long drive!  Arriving fairly early, Lupe did get out of the RAV4 for a little while to visit Rearguard Falls, which she had all to herself this morning.  Like all the other waterfalls Looper had been to yesterday, the sheer volume and power of the flow was overwhelming.

Rearguard Falls is the upper limit of the Fraser River’s Chinook salmon run.
On the elaborate boardwalk leading down to the falls.
Right next to Rearguard Falls, which is actually more like a big rapids.
Rearguard Falls. Both Rearguard and Overlander Falls are on the Fraser River.
By the Fraser River just upstream of Rearguard Falls.

The next stop came 1.5 hours later at the Goat River rest area, a favorite secluded spot on the way to Prince George.  Without any signage, SPHP missed the turn, and had to go back.

Enjoying a sniff at the secluded Goat River rest area.
Along the Goat River near the Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 bridge.
Goat River downstream view.

Lupe’s final stop before Prince George was at the Ancient Forest.  With time somewhat of the essence, the Carolina Dog did only the basic main loop, instead of the entire trail system as she’d done once before.  That still allowed her to visit both Treebeard and the Radies Tree again, two enormous 1,000 year old western red cedars.

Arriving at the Ancient Forest.
Lupe explored only the main loop (in green) today.
On the raised boardwalk near the start of the loop.
About the ancient western red cedars.
Among the ferns on the way to the upper part of the loop.
Treebeard, named after J.R.R Tolkien’s ent from middle earth.
Info about the Radies tree.
Radies tree.

With many miles to go, it could rain all day long, if it wanted to, which it did off and on.  Lupe snoozed on her pink blanket most of the afternoon, occasionally opening an eye to gaze out the window.  Going to Alaska!  Could anything be more fun?  The drive through the drizzle was so very scenic and soothing.  A marvelous day!

8-3-22, 5:22 PM – The afternoon was about shot by the time Lupe reached her next stop of any significance.  Can’t miss the dazzling flower gardens at Steelhead Park in the little town of Houston!  An impressive variety of lilies seemed to be the specialty this year.

Steelhead Park in Houston, British Columbia.
Lilies.

Many other kinds of flowers and decorative plants were featured, too.  Steelhead Park isn’t very big, so Lupe had time to visit nearly the entire collection.  The only genuine disappointment was that the fountain still wasn’t working.  It hadn’t been in 2019, either, the last time Loop was here, but had always been operational before then.

Another colorful display.
By the Steelhead fountain.

Wonder why they don’t fix it, SPHP?  The fountain was always such a lovely centerpiece!

Lack of funds, I suppose, Looper.  Seems a shame, doesn’t it?

8-3-22, 6:21 PM, Telkwa – The sky remained overcast as Lupe stood on a new sidewalk on a levee overlooking the Bulkley River.

Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia.

Not much farther to Smithers now, Looper.  We’ll be there soon.

Smithers!  That’s where Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) is, SPHP!  And the Babine Mountains, too.  Remember Harvey Mountain, the Onions, and Astlais Mountain?

Sure do, Loop!  Hope the weather clears up tomorrow!  Been 5 days, and we’re nearly 1,800 miles from home now.  That ought to be about enough driving for a while.

Oh, are we going to climb a mountain tomorrow, SPHP?

If the weather cooperates, Loopster.  We’ll see.

On the way to Smithers, a small patch of blue appeared to the N, and the sky brightened to the W.  At dusk in Driftwood Canyon, it almost looked like the whole sky was starting to clear, but it was hard to tell for sure.

Along the Bulkley River, Telkwa, British Columbia, Canada 8-3-22

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Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 2: Agee Creek to the Summit! (7-9-22)

Days 23-26 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming!

7-8-22, 9:16 AM, Agee Creek – Slept long and hard last night, yet still got off to a slow start.  The sun was well up, the morning clear and bright, when Lupe emerged from the tiny house.  Last night’s rain was but a memory now.  The Carolina Dog sniffed around while SPHP puttered about getting ready for the trek ahead.

Low camp near Agee Creek. Photo looks NW.

SPHP was feeling lethargic, but inevitably it was that time.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Returning to Trout Creek Trail No. 763, Loopster headed NW up a gentle incline.  A mere 250 feet, and she reached the 3rd signed trail junction of her journey to Trout Peak thus far.

At the 3rd official trail junction.
Trout Creek Trail No. 763 & Robbers Roost (R), West Trout Creek Trail No. 763.1A (L).
And a more legible different version.

We want West Trout Creek Trail No. 763.1A.  Stay L, Loop.

No. 763.1A led straight to a sunny hillside of burnt trees.  After gaining some elevation, the trail crossed a mucky spot created by a tiny tributary of Agee Creek.  Once past the mire, the rate of climb diminished.  Lupe came to a live forest of aspens and a few pines in a broad shallow valley.

Near the aspens. Photo looks NW.

The shade was wonderful, but didn’t last long.  Beyond the aspens, the trail soon led to the flat top of a dusty ridge.  A lone wooden pole stood on end with a couple more poles on the ground nearby.  The upper Agee Creek drainage basin was now in sight ahead.  The N half was all grassy slopes, the S half a mostly dead forest.  Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) was to the NW.  The ridge Lupe needed to get to was also in sight.

Upper Agee Creek drainage (Center). Robbers Roost (R). Photo looks W.

The trail went W from here, coming down off the ridge.  Directly ahead, several lines of brown volcanic rocks ran down the open slope Lupe was traversing.  The trail dipped enough to pass below the largest of these rock formations where a couple of big pillars reminiscent of yesterday’s Middle Finger Rock stood.

As Lupe drew near the largest pillar, a hawk began screeching, wheeling through the sky overhead.  A nest was visible more than halfway up the SE side of the pillar.

Oh, I’ve got a name for that big pillar now, SPHP!  And it’s not offensive like the one you chose for the first column we saw yesterday.

No offense intended, Loop, Middle Finger Rock was simply what sprang to mind.  Descriptive, not offensive!  Anyway, you can name this one.  What’s your pleasure?

How about “Raptor Rock”?  It’s perfect, SPHP!

I agree, and marvelously inoffensive, Looper.  Raptor Rock it is!

Approaching Raptor Rock (L of Center). Photo looks WNW.
Raptor Rock. Nest visible more than halfway up. Photo looks NW.

Raptor Rock may not have been offensive, but apparently Lupe and SPHP were.  The hawk continued to circle screeching displeasure.  Fun to watch, but rude to stay too long.  After enjoying several minutes of dizzying aerobatics, Lupe continued on her way.

War hawk, or soon to be one, if Lupe and SPHP didn’t move along.
Passing Raptor Rock (L). Photo looks NE.

The trail soon led to a tributary of Agee Creek, then partway up a slope full of sagebrush.  Swinging around to the S side of this slope, the entire upper Agee Creek basin was on display, beautifully defended and boxed in by a high ridge to the WNW.  Forested nearby, plenty of open terrain was visible farther on below the enormous ridge.

Upper Agee Creek basin. Photo looks WNW.

See where that high ridge comes swooping down over toward the L, Loop?  That’s where we’re headed.  We need to get over that lower part to return to the Trout Creek valley again.  By the looks of these GPS tracks posted by Duane Gilliland and Richard Hensley, they must have gone clear around most of this forested region.

Seems easy enough, SPHP.  We aren’t going to have to cross Trout Creek again, are we?

Nope, only a couple of tributaries.  Doubt they’ll be a problem.

The trail soon petered out.  After going a little farther without finding it again, exploring the forested part of the basin began to seem like a good idea.  By now Loopster was feeling hot in her fur coat beneath the July sun.  She’d be mighty happy to come across Agee Creek again.

Bushes surrounding the forest made this a questionable decision at first, but SPHP waded through them without too much trouble.  Sure enough, Lupe came to one of Agee Creek’s branches almost right away.

Enjoying headwaters of Agee Creek.

Working WSW amid mostly dead trees, Lupe came more rivulets, plus some marshy areas as well.  The ground eventually dried out, providing firmer support.  Sagebrush reappeared.  Traveling through a gigantic meadow of purple wildflowers, Lupe lingered whenever possible in the shade of isolated stands of trees.

Upper Agee Creek basin past the wetlands. Photo looks SW.
In the huge meadow. Photo looks WSW.

Beyond the meadow, Lupe reached considerably steeper terrain where a forest had burned.  Wandering a maze of deadfall, she found more open territory above it.  The ridge separating the upper Agee Creek basin from the Trout Creek valley wasn’t much farther now.  SPHP called a halt when the Carolina Dog got to it.

Whew!  Seemed harder getting here than it ought to have been.  Guess I’m still sort of worn out from yesterday.  How long does it take to get in shape anyway, Loop?  We’ve been climbing mountains for 3 weeks!

We’re doing OK, aren’t we, SPHP?  Here’s the Trout Creek valley again.  How much farther do we have to go?

Still quite a long way, Loopster.  There’s a flat spot on the topo map at 10,600 feet about 3 miles W of here in the upper valley.  Would be great if we could camp there tonight.  3 miles may not sound like much, but that’s as the crow flies, and we’re about to enter more rugged territory.

More scenic, too!  The rounded ridge Loop was on featured a few wind-swept trees, but consisted mostly of open ground.  The American Dingo enjoyed a great view of the Trout Creek valley from here almost all the way W to the 10,600 foot area SPHP was referring to.  Trout Creek was hidden far down in the forest below.

A faint trail left the ridge descending into the valley, but SPHP didn’t trust it not to vanish completely once down in the forest.  Rather than taking the trail, Lupe stayed high.  Peak 12120 was in sight along the huge ridge at the far end as she headed W.

Heading into the upper Trout Creek valley. Peak 12120 (Center). Photo looks W.

The decision to stay high seemed a good one.  Lupe enjoyed tremendous views while making great progress.  Eventually the open slope she was on flattened and widened out to some degree.  Loopster passed a line of posts running N/S down the mountainside.  Some of the posts had coils of unused barbed wire around them.

It didn’t take long to reach a wide valley coming down from the N carved by a tributary of Trout Creek.  Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) was visible at the upper end, and looked like it wouldn’t be a difficult climb from here.  Trout Peak was the American Dingo’s top priority, though. Loop kept on going to the stream, where she promptly laid down to cool off.

Approaching the valley of the first stream coming down from the N. Robbers Roost (Center & R). Photo looks NW.
Cooling off in the first tributary of Trout Creek. Photo looks NNW.

After her refreshing dip, climbing SW out of the stream valley, Loopster found herself on a steeper, rockier slope.  Staying high no longer looked as viable as before, so a gradual descent began during this next traverse.  Progress was much slower here.  As Lupe drew near the upper edge of the forest, a jumble of rocks was hidden among thigh-high bushes.

On the steeper slope beyond the first stream. Peak 12120 (L). Photo looks W.

At first, the forest wasn’t much of an improvement, but descending a bit more, game trails helped speed things along.  The ordeal ended with an even better view of Robbers Roost from along the edge of a second valley carved by another tributary of Trout Creek.  Partway up this stream, a waterfall roared down a rockier part of the gorge.

Robbers Roost (Center) from the second tributary of Trout Creek. Photo looks N.
Zoomed in on the waterfall.

This second stream was definitely somewhat bigger and livelier than the first one.  SPHP had to walk a little way upstream to find a spot where it could be rock-hopped.  Once across, a 50 foot climb up a steep bank got Lupe to a small, sloping meadow.  Crossing it in just a few minutes, she entered the forest again.

Down by the second tributary of Trout Creek.
The sloping meadow beyond the second stream. Photo looks SW.

Wandering WSW, the Carolina Dog came across a trail heading the right direction.  The trail persisted, becoming quite clear as it went up a 200 foot high headwall that had been visible earlier on.  Once above the headwall, the trail vanished in another meadow.

More forest ahead.  Still climbing, but more slowly, Lupe stayed in the meadow which angled NW.  Above the trees, a beautiful strip of green territory opened up to the W, bordered by the forest on the S, and a mountainside to the N.

This region was easy traveling, a gradual uphill trek where at times a faint trail pointed the way.  Lupe came to a third, much smaller stream gurgling down from a big snowbank to the N.

Heading W along the strip. Photo looks W.

Near the W end of the strip, Lupe came to a shallow depression.  To the SW, a beautiful giant bowl was across the valley.  SPHP wearily dropped the pack.

Want to stop here, Loop?  Please say yes, because I’m about done.

The scenery is marvelous, SPHP!  Is this the 10,600 foot region we were aiming for?

No, that’s still a little farther.  Saw that area from a distance on the way here, but the terrain is about to get quite a bit steeper ahead, and I just don’t feel like I have the energy to do it right now, Loop.

Are we close enough to get to Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) tomorrow, SPHP?

Oh, I’m pretty sure we are, Looper.  We’re at about 10,000 feet here, and while it would sure be nice to get that extra 600 feet out of the way today, I’ll have an easier time of it tomorrow with a lighter pack.  We can ditch the tiny house and sleeping bags right here, if we stay.  Trout Peak is only 1.25 miles N now.  We’ll get there.

5:54 PM, high camp, upper Trout Creek valley – Another early end.  Still a few hours of daylight left, but SPHP had the tiny house set up.  Loopster relaxed on the grass nearby with a grand view of the big bowl on the far side of the Trout Creek valley.

The big bowl from the tiny house. Photo looks SW.

Dinner, then a nap.  At dusk, the Carolina Dog emerged from the tiny house to sniff around a little more.  Lupe discovered an old antler, and proudly carried it around in her mouth, every now and then stopping to gnaw on it for a minute or two before ultimately deciding it was too big and difficult to deal with.

Stars appeared.  Such amazing solitude!  A wonderful evening.

A wind came up later on, flapping the tiny house practically all night.  It was a strange, intermittent affair with periods of complete calm between gusts.  The American Dingo snoozed like a rock, though.  Amazing what sufficient exercise can do.

7-9-22, 7:10 AM, high camp, Upper Trout Creek valley

Daylight in the swamps, SPHP!  And, oh, what a gorgeous day it is, too!  Up and at ’em!

Alright, alright!  Give me a few minutes, and I’ll be right with you, Looper.

Miss Eager Beaver the next day. Photo looks SW.

We’ve got to go back, Loop!

Back?  Back where, SPHP?

To that last little stream we passed below the big snowbank it was coming from.  I was listening to the wind last night, and suddenly realized we only have one bottle of water left.  We’ve got to fill up before taking on Trout.

The little stream was a 0.25 mile back E, but it didn’t take long to get there and tank up again.  A quick return to the tiny house, and it was

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Heading WNW, the terrain steepened, but wasn’t difficult, especially with a lighter pack.  Lupe roamed green slopes at will.  Soon a sloping ridge came into view.

There’s our ticket to success, Loopster!  Trout Peak’s S ridge.

Looks easy, SPHP!

Yeah.  That’s the way Duane Gilliland, Mark Adrian, Desert Rat, Bob Bolton, and Richard Hensley went a year ago.  They know what they’re doing!  We’re just following in their pawsteps.  Gonna be cake!

Heading for Trout Peak’s S ridge (Center & R). Photo looks NW.

Except it wasn’t.  Gradually turning NW, Lupe kept climbing.  Soon she was looking down on an upper bowl off to the SW where the 10,600 foot flat region that SPHP had hoped to get to yesterday was.  Nothing wrong with that, but going a little farther, suddenly a very steep-sided ravine was ahead.  A long, continuous snowbank with a near vertical edge ran along the opposite upper W side.

The upper bowl (Center). Photo looks SW.
The problematic ravine. HP11843 (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.

Well, shoot!  We’re too high already!  We started up too soon, Loop.  How are we going to get past this darn ravine?

We can go back down, if you want to, SPHP.  Get back on the right track.

Eh.  I don’t know.  Hate to have to do that.  You know me, Loopster.  Let’s go a little higher.  Maybe there’s a decent spot to cross?

The Carolina Dog didn’t care either way.  Up she went, but the situation didn’t improve as far as being able to get past that ravine.  If anything, it got worse.  No relief in sight.  Meanwhile, lots of beautiful open terrain was immediately beyond the ravine.  Looked like it went all the way to Trout’s S ridge only 0.5 mile away.

Trout’s S ridge (Center & R) beyond the ravine. HP11843 (R edge). Photo looks NW.

Fiddlesticks!  So pathetically easy, and I’ve messed it up!  We’re not going to be able to get over there, Looper.  Hang on.  Lemme check the map.

Are we going to have to go back down, SPHP?

No, I don’t think so.  Looks like this all connects.  Kinda steep, but it really couldn’t be easier.  Shouldn’t run into any problems until we’re almost all the way up to HP11843, which we can already see from here.  Doesn’t look too bad.  I bet we can find a way.  It’s that last 50 or 100 feet of rock bands that may be tricky.

Up then, SPHP?

Yup.  Let’s do eet!

Lupe kept climbing.  The long, steep slope above was grassy, and full of little wildflowers.  Hardly any rocks, and no obstacles at all, other than the limits of lung, heart, and leg endurance.  The views kept improving.  Looper had plenty of time to enjoy them during SPHP’s frequent pauses to gasp for air.

Heading higher. HP11843 (L), Trout Peak’s SE ridge (Center). Photo looks N.
Tiny wildflowers.
Both SW bowls (L & Center) of the upper Trout Creek valley. Photo looks SW.

1,000 feet up before the rate of climb finally diminished.  Lupe was now high enough to have a terrific view of Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.).

Robbers Roost (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

The broad, rounded slope got rockier and narrower as Lupe continued N on an easier stroll higher.  The ridge she’d reached was soon destined to merge with another one coming up from HP10721.  Trout Peak’s summit was already in sight.

Doing great! A little rockier, but not that steep. HP11843 (L), Trout Peak (R of Center). Photo looks NW.

After reaching the ridge junction, Lupe turned NW along Trout Peak’s SE ridge.  A nice level stretch led to an increasingly steep climb toward the rock bands forming the prow of HP11843.  There were actually 2 prows, the second one a little lower formed by a thinner band of rocks.

Heading for the prow of HP11843 (Center), Trout Peak summit (R). Photo looks NW.

As Lupe closed in on the prow, SPHP studied that upper band of rocks.  Hard to say whether Loopster would be able to scramble right on up to HP11843, or not.  Sort of looked possible, but might pan out either way.

The American Dingo easily made it up to the lower prow.  Plain as day, she would also be able to get near the top of the upper one, but success still didn’t appear assured.

Above the lower prow, but still below HP11843 (Center). Photo looks NW.

Guess we won’t know until we get there, SPHP.

Yeah, that last little bit still looks mighty steep, Loop.  If it goes, that would be great.  Certainly the most direct route, but I’m kind of leaning toward traversing this S slope.  Looks like we ought to be able to get over to the S ridge from here.

That’s also pretty steep, SPHP.  Looks like loose scree, too.  Sure you don’t want to give the prow a try first?  It’s really not that much higher now.

SPHP demurred.  To heck with the prow!  Over to that S ridge where Lupe was supposed to have been all along!

Heading for the S ridge. Photo looks WNW.

Went fine at first, but halfway across the scree was, indeed, very loose.  Little rock showers clattered down the mountain with every step.  Even some big stuff wasn’t stable at all.  In the end it worked!  Lupe reached firm rock along the edge of the S ridge.  A quick scramble, and she was there.

The American Dingo now stood on super easy terrain, just small rocks and a bit of scattered vegetation.  Still hundreds of feet higher to go, but no sweat!  Off to the N, a giant green ramp led up to a hilltop.

That’s it, SPHP!  Trout Peak’s summit!

Absolutely!  Got it made in the shade now, Looper!

What shade, SPHP?

Just an expression, Loop.

Trout Peak (L) from the upper S ridge. HP11843 (R). Photo looks N.

Before heading for the summit, Lupe went over to HP11843 first, which was close by, and really not much of a detour.  A quick glance over the edge convinced SPHP that the traverse to the S ridge hadn’t been a bad decision.

The jaunt from HP11843 to the summit was a joyful one!  No worries, no obstacles.  Lupe was thrilled to find a snowbank still melting away to thrash around on.

Trout Peak (R of Center) from HP11843. Photo looks N.
On the Dingo refrigerator. Peak 12120 (L). Photo looks SW.

7-9-22, 11:41 AM, 60ºF, Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) – The wind was 15 mph out of the SW when Lupe reached a semi-circular low wall of rocks up on Trout Peak’s summit ridge.  The sky was smoky near the horizons, but visibility was otherwise good.  Within the wall of rock, a white tube of the sort that nearly always contains a registry was next to a survey benchmark stamped with the lovely word “Trout”.

On Trout Peak! Photo looks NW.
Trout survey benchmark.

The very highest ground looked like it might be a bit farther NW along the summit ridge, which was hundreds of feet long, or maybe a rock along the N edge right here.  Coming up from the S, Trout had been a nothingburger romp up the big ramp, but the N edge was a precipice.

Lupe had barely gotten to the summit when the unexpected happened.

SPHP!  Someone’s coming!

What?  Lupe hadn’t seen a soul since leaving the Jim Creek trailhead 2.5 days ago, and one minute after reaching Trout Peak she had company?  Glancing up from the survey benchmark, SPHP saw it was true.  A man was rapidly striding this way from the NW.

Moments later, Lupe met Peter Gram.

With Peter Gram on Trout Peak.

Peter Gram was soft-spoken and had a relaxed demeanor.  He gave Lupe a pat and chatted with SPHP for most of the 20 minutes or so he stayed on Trout Peak.  The tale Peter told was fascinating.

Peter had once lived in the Black Hills region where Lupe and SPHP are from.  He’d graduated from high school there years ago, and had enjoyed rock climbing in the Black Hills.  Peter now lives in Wyoming, working remotely for a Silicon Valley company.

Considering Trout Peak a mere day hike, Peter had left Spout Springs at 6:00 AM this morning.  Initially intending to come over Robbers Roost on the way here, he’d gotten near that summit only to find it blocked by a grizzly with 2 cubs.

Forced to retreat, traveling fast and light, Peter had descended into the deep valley N of Trout Peak, and made his way over to the NNW ridge.  Not quite noon, yet Peter had already hiked 12 miles, and accumulated over 8,000 feet of total elevation gain just this morning.  He attributed his incredible speed and endurance to having taken up running 100 mile marathons 5 years ago.

Including the 3 grizzlies on Robbers Roost, Peter had run into a total of 9 so far.  There’d been more grizzlies on Trout Peak’s NNW ridge.  Peter had even taken a fabulous video of 2 enormous grizzlies fighting, or maybe playing, on a snowbank not too far from here.

During the course of the conversation, Peter mentioned he’d climbed all 14’ers in the 48 contiguous states.  Since it was a long way back to Spout Springs, he eventually excused himself with a friendly good-bye.  His plan was to head down to HP11843 where Lupe had come up, scramble down to the ridge leading to Robbers Roost, and hope mama grizzly and her cubs would have moved on by the time he got there.

Then just like that, as quickly as he had arrived, Peter was on his way.

Wow!  Doesn’t happen very often, but every now and then we meet some incredible people in the mountains, don’t we, SPHP?

You know, Looper, the mountains are full of humbling experiences.  That was another one.  Super nice and incredibly capable guy!  Thought of telling him about the chipmunk we saw 2 days ago, but somehow I just couldn’t.

Well, you do what you can.  Might as well be happy with it.  Someone else can always do it higher, faster, farther, better.  Just the way it is.

Bet you’re ready for a chocolate coconut bar, Loop!  Stand on that highest rock near the edge, then we’ll split one to celebrate the success of our 2.5 day trek to Trout Peak.

Can we toast Peter’s under 6 hour success with some water, too, SPHP?  I’m parched!

Oh, but of course, sweet puppy!

Along the N edge. Beartooth Mountains in the distance. Photo looks N with help from the telephoto lens.

Neither Peter nor SPHP had been able to open the white tube containing the official Trout Peak registry.  However, there was also a green bottle of Valerian Root near it that SPHP opened without difficulty.  Inside, a few long pieces of paper were stapled together.  The top page contained the only entries.  Mark Adrian, Bob Bolton, Duane Gilliland, and Richard Hensley, the same group whose GPS tracks and trip reports had inspired Lupe’s visit to Trout Peak today, were all there, and an apparent entry by “jh – NoDak” among the others might have been a clue as to Desert Rat’s true identity.

The only other entry was by Josh Super on 8-1-21.

The benchmark, tightly sealed white tube, and Valerian Root bottle.
The Trout Peak mini-registry.

Peter Gram hadn’t bothered to sign this flimsy registry before moving on, but SPHP made certain Lupe’s name got added.

There was a lot to see!  After relaxing together for a while with Lupe curled up on SPHP’s lap near the survey benchmark, it was time to get up and have a look around.  The chocolate coconut bar was long gone, and so was the last of the package of beef jerky SPHP had brought along.

The SE end of the summit ridge was closest, so the American Dingo went that way first.  Robbers Roost (12,040 ft.) where Peter Gram would soon be shooing away grizzlies was only a mile E.  Rattlesnake Mountain (9,116 ft.), Cedar Mountain (7,880 ft.) and the Buffalo Bill Reservoir were a lot farther SE.

Robbers Roost (L), Rattlesnake Mountain (Center), Cedar Mountain (R of Center), Buffalo Bill Reservoir (R). Photo looks SE.

To the NE, Lupe looked down on the huge, deep bowl Peter had visited NW of Robbers Roost after conceding the mountain to the grizzlies.  Looking S, the ridge leading to Peak 12120, and the region Josh Super had explored was in view.  The narrow ridge W of Peak 12120 featured several unusual and aesthetically pleasing blocky high points.

Robbers Roost (far R). Photo looks NE.
Peak 12120 (L of Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SW.

A journey of several hundred feet was required to reach the NW end of the summit ridge.  The view of Trout Peak’s NNW ridge was interesting.  It featured a big, flat meadow with ragged cliffs along the edges.  How had Peter come up it?  The Beartooths were all snowy on the N horizon.  With the help of the camera’s telephoto lens, it was possible to pick out Castle Mountain (12,612 ft.).

The twin spires of Pilot Peak (11,699 ft.) and Index Peak (11,240 ft.) were more easily discernable far to the NW, but looked small from here.  Windy Mountain (10,262 ft.) was much closer, but not as high.

Part of Trout Peak’s summit ridge. Robbers Roost (far L), Rattlesnake Mountain (L), Cedar Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.
Trout Peak’s NNW ridge (L), Pilot Peak and Index Peak (L) tiny on the horizon. Windy Mountain (Center) in shadow. Beartooths beyond. Photo looks NNW.
Castle Mountain (R of Center) in the Beartooths. Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

To the W, Dead Indian Peak (12,216 ft.) lined up almost directly behind Dewey Mountain (12,220 ft.).  A snowy mountain far beyond both may well have been Sunlight Peak (11,922 ft.).

Dewey Mountain (Center). Photo looks W.
Dewey Mountain (Center) with Dead Indian Peak (slightly R) beyond. Snowy Sunlight Peak (slightly L) beyond both. Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.

Mountains stretched away in every direction as far as Loopster could see, except to the E, where it was clear they eventually came to an end.  A big bowl NW of Peak 12120 with many snow-capped mountains in the distance was a favorite scene, but it was all splendid, a vast wilderness waiting to be explored!

Peak 12120 (L) and the bowl NW of it (Center). Photo looks SW.

7-9-22, 1:19 PM, Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) – Peter had left more than an hour ago.  Now Lupe’s time had come.  The American Dingo stood in the SW breeze atop that high rock along the brink of the N edge only a few feet from the survey benchmark for the last time.  When and if she might ever actually get to explore more of this wonderful part of the Absaroka Range was an unknown, part of the uncertain future.

Final moments on Trout Peak. Beartooths beyond. Photo looks NNW.

The Carolina Dog had made it to Trout Peak, though, despite it being a 2.5 day journey at SPHP’s pace, and that was all that mattered today.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

A brief pause for a last look at all the glory before descending the broad green ramp leading down to HP11843, and Lupe was on her way.

About to start the descent to HP11843 (L). Peak 12120 (R). Photo looks SW.

Going down was so easy and fun!  Spectacular views all around every step of the way.  This time Lupe did go down Trout Peak’s S ridge, taking the route originally intended for her ascent.  Turned out to be rockier than expected, but not difficult at all.  Views of the upper Trout Creek valley far below were incredible.

On the S ridge. Trout Creek valley (R). Photo looks SE.

Eventually Looper got down close to where the 10,600 foot plain SPHP had hoped to pitch the tiny house at last night was just across the way.  Good thing that last effort required to get there had never been made.  Someone else had already claimed it!

Lupe alert! Giant deers at 10,600 feet!

An enormous snowbank occupied part of the valley.  The Carolina Dog had a blast on it!  Exploration of this new part of the Trout Creek valley continued until the tiny house finally appeared ahead.

Tiny house (Center) in sight! Rattlesnake Mountain (L), Cedar Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

Lupe ate, then relaxed enjoying the fabulous view of the big bowl across the valley while SPHP packed up the tiny house.

How far are we going, SPHP?

As far as we can before it gets dark, Loop, or until one of us just can’t go any farther.

This time SPHP did a much better job of following West Trout Peak Trail No. 763.1A.  Lost it once for 15 minutes in the forest, but otherwise it all went well.  Most of this route was considerably lower than where Lupe had been on the way in yesterday.

7-9-22, 7:05 PM, Trout Creek valley – SPHP lasted long enough for Loop to make it past both tributaries of Trout Creek coming down from the N, but that was it.  The tiny house was set up on a grassy meadow just E of the last stream.  Lupe had been energetic all this way, but now even she was looking tired, wanting to rest while watching the evening sunlight leave the mountains.

Robbers Roost (L) now far up the valley. Photo looks NNW.
The mountain across the way. Photo looks SW.

7-10-22, 3:46 PM, 90ºF, Jim Creek trailhead – It was a long march back over all the same hills and ridges, following the same trails, and crossing all the same streams as 3 days ago, but the American Dingo had done it.  Although the RAV4 was baking hot, Lupe couldn’t wait to leapt back up onto her pink blanket.

Crazy Dingo!  You’re going to cook in there!

SPHP opened all the windows, and the rear hatch.  A hot, desert breeze blew the super-heated air out of the RAV4 in no time.  Lupe was panting hard, but didn’t seem to care.  Soon enough, SPHP had everything back in order.  The AC was on, the RAV4 on its way back to Hwy 14/16/20, and life was good!

Lupe’s Trout Peak adventure was over.  What a grand time it had been!

As it turned out, Trout Peak was also the final adventure of this entire Dingo Vacation.  There’d been plans for a stop in the Bighorns next, but E of Cody a ferocious wind swept in out of the N.  51ºF, temp dropping, and a gale when Loop arrived N of Bald Mountain (10,042 ft.).

Well, Loopster, I’m no Peter Gram.  Cramping up, and feeling worn out.  Been a fabulous trip to Wyoming, but we can be home yet late tonight.

Is that what you want to do, SPHP?

Yeah, let’s go get cleaned up, rested up, and resupplied.  Big things ahead, you know!  Canada’s opened up!

We’re going to Canada again, SPHP?  We haven’t been there in 3 years!

Darn tootin’ we’re going to Canada, Dingo!  And Alaska, too!

(End, home, 7-11-22, 1:06 AM)

On Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming 7-9-22

Links:

Next Adventure                           Prior Adventure

Trout Peak, Absaroka Range, WY – Part 1: Jim Creek to Agee Creek (7-7-22)

Francs Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 1: The Meadow Creek Trail & Beyond! (7-15-20)

Francs Peak Absaroka Range, Wyoming – Part 2: HP12064 – Part 2: HP12064 to the Summit!  (7-15-20)

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