Part 1 of Day 13 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to New Mexico!
Seriously? We’re just going to drive up, SPHP? Wouldn’t it be more fun to take the Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway? I’ve never been on a tram before!
I know it, but there’s a reason for that. Doubt they would allow an American Dingo on the tram, Loopster.
Crestfallen, Lupe’s ears drooped with disappointment.
Admittedly, driving clear to the top of Sandia Crest was a chincy way of getting up such an enormous mountain, but SPHP really didn’t believe the tram would prove to be a viable option. Furthermore, after Loop’s big adventure up Mount Taylor(11,301 ft.) and La Mosca Lookout(11,036 ft. ) yesterday, SPHP wasn’t terribly inclined to take on 3,200 feet of elevation gain on La Luz Trail No. 37, either. E of Albuquerque, SPHP turned off I-40 to head N on Hwy 14. At San Antonito came a L turn onto Hwy 536, start of the long winding route up to Sandia Crest’s summit.
No. 536 was a lovely wide paved road all the way to the top, but instead of driving directly to the summit, SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Capulin Spring picnic ground. This close to Albuquerque, Sandia Crest was likely to be busy. Lupe might enjoy a short, much more private romp up Capulin Peak(8,929 ft.) to work off a little excess energy first.
Completely in favor of this notion, Lupe cheered up. 600 feet N of a locked gate across the road leading to the Capulin Snow Play Area, she came to a faint trail. Blue diamonds marked the way as the trail lost 80 feet of elevation heading E into the forest before beginning a slow, steady climb.
Almost to the Capulin Snow Play Area, which starts at the loop directly ahead. The Blue Diamond trail to Capulin Peak left the road (R) next to where Lupe is standing. Photo looks NW.At the low point of the Blue Diamond trail shortly after leaving the road. Photo looks E.
Capulin Peak’s summit was only 0.5 mile away. The route started out forested and shady, but Loop soon reached a sunnier region of shrubs, bushes, scattered wildflowers and exotic New Mexican desert plants.
In the shady forest. Photo looks E.Among the shrubs and bushes. Photo looks SE.Yellow wildflowers as brilliant as the New Mexico sun.How’s this for a desert succulent? Must be a land urchin!
From the Blue Diamond trail’s low point only 230 feet of elevation gain was required to get to Capulin Peak’s summit. The terrain was already leveling out as Lupe reached the bushes. Running SE along the upper lip of a limestone escarpment, the trail provided views of more forest to the E. The big view, however, was W toward Sandia Crest(10,678 ft.), an enormous ridge 1,750 feet higher running N/S for miles. A cluster of towers was visible near the high point.
Sandia Crest (R) from Capulin Peak. Photo looks SSW.Sandia Crest from Capulin Peak’s summit. Photo looks WSW.
Capulin Peak(8,929 ft.) was supposed to have a survey benchmark, but whether it could be found in the bushy summit region seemed doubtful. However, the American Dingo’s search for it soon proved successful. Surrounded by rocks in a little open spot, the benchmark was readily visible roughly 50 feet N of the summit’s S end, 15 feet E of the edge of the escarpment.
Capulin Peak survey BM.
Visiting Capulin Peak was fun, but that was about all there was to it. Lupe returned to the RAV4. SPHP finished the long, winding drive up to Sandia Crest(10,678 ft.).
2 parking lots were at the top of the mountain. The upper one was more than half full, but the lower one was virtually empty. Signs said that a parking permit was required, but where to acquire one wasn’t clear. SPHP parked the RAV4 regardless.
Hmm. Didn’t realize we needed a parking permit, Loop! Looks like we’re going to be outlaws.
You can probably get a permit at the visitor center, SPHP! It’s right over there, at the S end of this parking lot.
Maybe, but these signs seem to imply that the permits have to be acquired somewhere else in advance. Not going to risk asking at the visitor center only to be kicked out because they don’t sell them here. Came too far for that! We won’t be sticking around for long, anyway. Come on! Let’s have a quick look before we get evicted!
Carolina Dog outlaw Lupe arrives at the Sandia Crest upper parking lot. Photo looks S.
The towers Lupe had seen from Capulin Peak were N of the parking lot. Despite signs warning against radiation exposure, the American Dingo was going to compound SPHP’s parking lot villainy by paying a visit to that area, because that was technically where the Sandia Mountain Wilderness High Point(10,600+ ft.) was. First, though, she sauntered boldly up the sidewalk ramp to Sandia Crest’s true summit.
Venturing beyond the railing (horrors!), Loopster got up on the highest rocks, which were barely 20 feet above the parking lot.
The towers over by the Sandia Mountains Wilderness High Point. Photo looks N.Sandia Crest true summit. Photo looks N.Beyond the safety railing on Sandia Crest’s true summit. Photo looks SW.Red-leashed in the act!
A stiff 20 mph breeze was blowing out of the W. Although the view was hazy, Mount Taylor(11,301 ft.) was faintly visible on the far horizon. Much closer, and somewhat clearer, the vast metropolis of Albuquerque was in sight 3,200 feet lower down at the base of Sandia Crest. The tram was nowhere to be seen, but couldn’t have been too far away.
A commanding view of Albuquerque! Photo looks SW.Albuquerque with a little help from the telephoto lens.
Just S of the true summit the sidewalk led to a cement platform where several plaques were posted. The best view from the platform was SSE along the length of the Sandia Crest ridgeline, but there were interesting views to the E as well.
Looking SSE toward the visitor center (L) and cement viewing platform (R).Plaque 1 – about the views, steel forest (communication towers) and migratory flyway.Plaque 2 – about forest healthPlaque 3 – about watershedsBest view from Sandia Crest! Photo looks SSE.Looking ESE over the parking lot.
A mere 15 minutes after arriving, Lupe concluded her brief Sandia Crest explorations with a stealth visit to the Sandia Mountain Wilderness High Point(10,600+ ft.) in the steel forest. A short trek along the W side of a fence got Loop to where she could reach this destination.
The Carolina Dog didn’t dillydally. A couple of photos, and it was time to vamoose before SPHP’s parking lot piracy was discovered by the powers that be!
Capulin Peak and Sandia Crest were just a fun side excursion on a mainly travel and positioning day. Looper still had a long way to go! After leaving Sandia Crest, SPHP turned N onto Hwy 14 again down at San Antonito. Scot-free from her oh-so-recent crimes, the American Dingo was safely away and onto the next great thing!
Basking in radiation at the Sandia Mountain Wilderness High Point. Photo looks N.Looking SSW back toward Sandia Crest (L).
Days 11 & 12 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to New Mexico!
5-18-21, evening –
Stopped raining, SPHP!
Your point, Loop?
Can we go for a walk?
Oh, I suppose. Why not?
Strolling SE from the Gooseberry Trailhead on USFS Road No. 193, a junction with unmarked No. 501 was soon reached. A less developed road, it looked more intriguing. The Carolina Dog had barely started sniffing S along it when SPHP noticed a collection of white plastic gallon milk jugs abandoned E of the road. Strange. Who just dumps stuff like that in the forest, anyway?
A little past the milk jugs a faint trail headed E.
Wonder where this goes, Looper?
Let’s find out, SPHP!
10 minutes brought Lupe to two water troughs, a round blue one and a rectangular green one. Both were full.
Odd. Wonder why these are here?
Maybe deer drink from them, SPHP?
You might be right, Loop. Sure doesn’t seem like cattle country. In any case, we better head back before it gets dark. I didn’t bring a flashlight.
Gooseberry Trailhead along USFS Road No. 193 NE of Grants, New Mexico.
5-19-21, 7:32 AM, 37ºF, Gooseberry Trailhead – Show time! Crossing USFS Road No. 193, Lupe headed NE up Trail No. 77, climbing through open forest past lumpy gray-brown rocks sporting light green lichens. The American Dingo was soon past most of the rocks. The trail leveled out as it curved SE. Upon reaching larger rock formations, the trail dropped 40 feet into a broad valley.
The Gooseberry Spring drainage contained several dry gullies, including one crossed by planks. On the far side, a switchback brought Lupe to a sign. Only 2 miles to Mount Taylor(11,301 ft.)!
Setting off for Mount Taylor on Gooseberry Trail No. 77.Early on among the first rocks.In the level region.Crossing the Gooseberry Spring drainage. Trail No. 77 starts out W of this drainage, not E of it as shown on the topo map.Only 2 miles from the summit after crossing the Gooseberry Spring drainage.
SE of the Gooseberry Spring drainage, Trail No. 77 resumed a steady climb. Loopster passed through a beautiful stand of large white-barked aspens. Sometimes there were glimpses of the big rounded ridge on the other side of the valley.
Among the aspens.Looking NNE across the Gooseberry Spring valley.
Beyond the aspens, Trail No. 77 broke out of the forest. A 0.5+ mile long slope, mostly open, but dotted with pines, rose to the E. As Lupe gained elevation, distant views appeared back to the W. Trees were scarce by the time the Carolina Dog reached a minor saddle at the upper end of the slope. Crossing the saddle, the trail started up the SE side of a ridge providing views of Rinconada Canyon.
Starting up the long slope after leaving most of the forest behind. Photo looks WSW.Up on the ridgeline with a view of Rinconada Canyon. HP10767 (R). Photo looks E.Heading up the SE side of the ridge. Photo looks NNE.Upper Rinconada Canyon. Photo looks ESE.
After 0.25 mile on the Rinconada Canyon side of the ridge, Trail No. 77 crossed back over to the Gooseberry side again at an open spot where the ridge was broad and gently rounded. Due N, long switchbacks were now visible leading to the top of a big hill. The trail passed a cluster of large rock formations along the way.
Re-crossing the ridge. Mount Taylor summit (L) ahead! Photo looks N.Approaching the rock formations. Photo looks N.Looking back from a switchback. HP10767 (Center). Photo looks SSE.Closing in on the summit! Photo looks N.
Two people were already at the summit when the Carolina Dog arrived. Loop briefly met Jay of Jay Wanders Out, and “Pocket Rocket”, a young woman from Germany. Pocket Rocket was through hiking the 3,100 mile CDT (Continental Divide Trail). Taking a break from logistical support, Jay was accompanying her. Apparently Mount Taylor(11,301 ft.) is an optional alternate route along the official CDT.
Jay and Pocket Rocket soon moved on, leaving Lupe and SPHP alone on Mount Taylor. Not much to explore. The summit region was plenty roomy, but wasn’t huge. Most of it was rocky and open with sweeping views, except toward the forested N slope. A sturdy metal sign stood at the high point, topped by an image that looked like Pogo. Behind this sign was a man-made crater several feet deep that served no discernable purpose. Beneath the sign someone had left a plastic whiskey bottle, contents partially consumed.
Unfortunately, the atmosphere was rather hazy. Despite the haze, far to the SSE a double-topped peak could be made out that looked like it might be Ladrones Benchmark(9,210 ft.). A long distant ridge to the E was almost certainly Sandia Crest(10,678 ft.). Lupe could see many lower hills and ridges, but nothing else stood out as being anywhere close to as high as Mount Taylor.
At the true summit. Ladrones Benchmark (?) (L of Center) faintly on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.Most of the summit region. Photo looks N.Looking ENE over Water Canyon. Sandia Crest (R) on the horizon.Sandia Crest. Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.View to the SW toward Grants.
40 minutes after arriving at the summit, Lupe was relaxing enjoying the views when suddenly there was a noise, followed by a friendly greeting. Mary Poppins was here! Well, the Swiss version, anyway. Carrying a small black umbrella, a young man from Switzerland appeared. Lupe met Pascal – trail name “Crush”.
Like Pocket Rocket, Crush was also hiking the CDT. In fact, Crush knew Pocket Rocket, having met her on the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) back in 2018. Since he’d started at the Mexican border a week later than Pocket Rocket, Crush hadn’t caught up with her on the CDT yet. SPHP told him he had missed her right here on Mount Taylor by just half an hour.
In addition to the PCT, Crush had also hiked the Arizona Trail, an 800+ mile long experience where he had seen 10 rattlesnakes per day. Crush spent 8 months every year traveling the world. Praising the long trails the Americans had built, Crushed marveled at the vast emptiness of the United States. Scandinavia was the only part of Europe as hiker friendly that still had significant open space.
Why the umbrella on such a sunny day? Crush preferred the umbrella to the chemicals in sunscreen.
With Pascal “Crush” on Mount Taylor.
Still early in the day. La Mosca Lookout(11,036 ft.), only 1.25 miles NE as the crow flies, was going to be Lupe’s next stop. Since La Mosca was Crush’s next destination, too, Loop and SPHP joined him on the descent from Mount Taylor. Lupe was happy to find a bit of snow still melting in the forest on Mount Taylor’s upper N slopes. Shortly after leaving the forest, La Mosca Lookout came into view.
Last of the snow on Mount Taylor’s upper N slopes.Descending Mount Taylor with Crush. Photo looks ENE.La Mosca Lookout (Center) comes into view. Photo looks NE.
On the way down to the saddle leading to La Mosca Lookout, Jay was coming back up Mount Taylor, having parted ways with Pocket Rocket, who was continuing N along the CDT. Turned out Crush and Jay had known each other for several years, but had never actually met before.
20 minutes went by as Jay and Crush exchanged greetings, and had a chat. The big news was that the recent spring snowstorm in Colorado had dumped a lot of snow. Parts of the CDT were still impassable up that way. CDT’ers who had gotten an early start on the trek N this year were stacked up waiting for the snow to melt.
Jay eventually went on his way. Looper’s journey to La Mosca Lookout resumed. By now it was lunch time. Down at the saddle leading to La Mosca, Crush decided to stop and eat in the shade of another forested area. Meanwhile, Lupe and SPHP continued up a gravel road leading to the lookout.
Heading up the road to La Mosca Lookout. Photo looks NE.Getting close to the top. Photo looks E.
The road curled around La Mosca’s upper S slopes over to the E side of the mountain before turning N. It soon ended between a collection of big towers and a stone stairway leading up to the actual fire lookout tower perched on the true summit.
A worker was getting the lookout tower ready prior to the summer fire season. Several windows had been broken out, so SPHP helped Lupe avoid the numerous shards of glass strewn about.
Approaching the La Mosca fire lookout tower. Photo looks NW.Near the end of the road. Photo looks NNW.On the stone steps. Photo looks S.
Not a single tree! La Mosca Lookout(11,036 ft.) provided unobstructed views in all directions. A battered sign SE of the tower proclaimed the elevation. To the N were views of mysterious, rumpled desert lowlands. Sandia Crest(10,678 ft.) was visible on the E horizon, while Mount Taylor(11,301 ft.) dominated the view to the SW.
By the battered sign atop La Mosca Lookout. Photo looks SE.Looking E. Sandia Crest on the horizon.Mount Taylor from La Mosca Lookout. Photo looks SW.Looking N toward the communications towers and desert lowlands.
Lupe kept an eye out for Crush, and eventually saw him coming up the road. He soon joined Loopster and SPHP up on La Mosca Lookout.
Crush (Center) as a tiny speck coming up the road. Photo looks SW.Waiting for Crush to arrive. Photo looks E.Crush and Loop on La Mosca Lookout. Mount Taylor (Center). Photo looks SW.
A good time was had by all. Crush stayed visiting for nearly half an hour before descending La Mosca’s stone steps to resume his long adventures N along the CDT. Shortly after Crush left, Lupe began her descent, too. Time to head back to Mount Taylor!
A farewell glance from Crush as he departs. Photo looks N.Starting back to Mount Taylor (L). Photo looks SW.View to the NW. HP10818 (R).Approaching the saddle leading to Mount Taylor (Center). Photo looks SW.
No one was around the 2nd time Lupe reached Mount Taylor’s summit. Crush had signed a registry stashed in a foldable shelf attached to the back of the Pogo sign. SPHP hadn’t noticed it earlier. This time SPHP added Lupe’s name to the registry.
Back on Mount Taylor. Photo looks S.
20 minutes were spent enjoying the views again before the American Dingo began her 2nd descent, this time heading back to the Gooseberry trailhead. Lupe met several more groups of CDT hikers coming up the mountain, but none as friendly as Crush had been.
Looking down the SSE ridge. HP10767 (Center).Final moments atop Mount Taylor. Photo looks E.Starting down. Photo looks WSW.Gooseberry Trail No. 77, still high on the switchbacks. Photo looks SE.
5-19-21, 5:23 PM, 66ºF, Gooseberry trailhead – Two young men were cooking a meal along the edge of the trailhead parking lot when Looper arrived back at the RAV4. They were from Albuquerque, and had hiked up Taylor Mountain and back down again in the time between Lupe’s 2 ascents. However, they’d started out a day ago from farther down the mountain, and still had a long way to go to get back to their vehicle. Tired and hungry, they didn’t seem inclined to say much more than that.
Lupe was also hungry, so SPHP heated up a can of beef stew. Full of stew, the Carolina Dog was resting on her pink blanket in the RAV4 while SPHP put away the propane stove when another CDT hiker appeared. He asked if anyone knew where the local CDT water cache was?
Yeah, as a matter of fact, Lupe and SPHP knew! All those white plastic gallon milk jugs Loop had found yesterday evening along USFS Road No. 501 weren’t actually milk jugs abandoned in the forest. They were the CDT water cache! Crush had happened to mention the water cache up on Mount Taylor.
SPHP gave the CDT’er directions on how to find the cache, which wasn’t far away. How much water did he need, anyway? Lupe and SPHP had extra water available right here in the RAV4, too. Offering profuse thanks, the CDT’er took only a single small water bottle from the RAV4 before disappearing up Gooseberry Trail No. 77.
The water conversation with the CDT’er had broken the ice with the two young men from Albuquerque. As soon as the CDT’er left, they said they were about out of water, too, and asked meekly if Lupe and SPHP had any more that could be spared?
Sure! Got at least a dozen extra bottles! Help yourselves to as much as you want! They did, taking half of the extras. A friendly conversation ensued. When they found out that Lupe intended to head E to Sandia Crest tomorrow, they told SPHP about La Luz Trail No. 37 that went all the way to the top of Sandia Crest from E Albuquerque. There was also a Sandia Peak Aerial Tramway that went up from Tramway Boulevard. Freshly rehydrated, the grateful Albuquerqians eventually continued their trek down the mountain.
Are we going to take the tramway up Sandia Crest, SPHP?
Hmm. I don’t know, Looper. First I’ve heard of it. Not sure what they might think about having an American Dingo passenger? A road goes all the way to the top, too, which is probably both easiest and cheapest, but the tram might be more fun.
Taylor Mountain, La Mosca Lookout, meeting Crush, Jay, and Pocket Rocket. Today had been a blast, too!
With “Crush” on Mount Taylor, San Mateo Mountains, New Mexico 5-19-21
Days 9 & 10 of Lupe’s 1st Summer of 2021 Dingo Vacation to New Mexico!
5-16-21, 5:28 PM, Sandy Point, 8 miles E of Mogollon on Bursum Road – Backpacks ready, the 3 young men hoisted them up, buckled in, and headed into the forest. Lupe watched them go. Sandy Point was quiet again. Their black Mazda 6 was the only other vehicle at the spacious trailhead. A breeze kicked up a little sand, which whirled away.
No, they’re doing some big trail loop that will take a few days. Not going to climb the peak.
What did they think of the road?
Scraped bottom once, but they got here. I guess our old G6 would have, too, Looper.
Nice to have the RAV4’s clearance, though, isn’t it, SPHP?
Oh, yeah! Didn’t really have to worry at all.
1.5 miles S of Alma, the turn E off Hwy 180 onto Bursum Road (Hwy 59) had been easy to find. Within a few miles Bursum Road had climbed up onto Whitewater Mesa, a pancake flat region at the base of the Mogollon Mountains.
Crossing Whitewater Mesa heading into the Mogollon Mountains. Photo looks E.
After crossing the mesa, Bursum Road had narrowed down to little more than a single lane with occasional pullouts, climbing steeply as it wound along precipitous mountainsides providing spectacular views before dropping even more steeply into the old mining town of Mogollon.
Entering Mogollon. Photo looks E.
The pavement ended just past Mogollon. Bursum Road forded Silver Creek several times within a few miles. In arid New Mexico, Silver Creek didn’t amount to much, even in May. The road eventually climbed way above Silver Creek, becoming narrow and rocky before finally topping out at Silver Creek Divide where it flattened and widened the last couple of miles to Sandy Point.
Sandy Point trailhead, about 14 miles from Hwy 180. Photo looks SE.
Sandy Point had a great view of Spring Mountain (9,683 ft.) off to the W. Lupe would be spending the night here, but as the evening wore on hopes for a colorful sunset were dashed by a nearly cloudless sky.
Spring Mountain (L) from Sandy Point. Photo looks WNW.
5-17-21, 6:55 AM, 39ºF – Lupe left Sandy Point heading S on Crest Trail No. 182, the same one the 3 young men had taken yesterday afternoon. The trail climbed steadily through a forest of young aspens sprouting new leaves. The aspens grew among the charred trunks of countless large pines killed by fire years ago. For the pines, the wildfire had been devastating – they didn’t seem to be regenerating at all.
Setting out on Crest Trail No. 182 from the Sandy Point trailhead. Photo looks S.Signage a little way in along the trail.Among the young aspens and charred pines.Crest Trail No. 182.
The trail soon reversed course, sweeping gradually back around to the N before trending SE along the E slopes of Willow Mountain(10,785 ft.). Lupe enjoyed views of a vast expanse of lower hills and ridges to the NE, views partially obstructed by the trunks of the burnt forest. There was a stretch of live pines, but nearly all of Willow Mountain had burned. The Carolina Dog was soon back among the burnt trees and young aspens.
Nearly all the views along Crest Trail No. 182 were tree-broken. Photo looks WNW.Still near the N end, but on the E flank of Willow Mountain now.
Crest Trail No. 182 leveled out after crossing a broad ridge that extended off to the NE. Many of the larger dead trees had blown over in this area, providing somewhat clearer views of the Willow Creek drainage to the E. Lupe came to a sign for Bead Spring, but was disappointed that there didn’t seem to be any water.
Upper Willow Creek drainage. Photo looks ESE.By the Bead Spring sign. Apparently Bead Spring was actually somewhere off-trail.
A little farther on, looking NE down the Willow Creek valley.
Progress had been rapid all the way to the Bead Spring sign. However, the situation changed shortly after passing it. Up to this point the trail had been clear, but the Carolina Dog now began to encounter substantial quantities of deadfall. Some of it was quite large.
After passing Bead Spring, large diameter deadfall blocking the trail became an almost continual problem.
Slowed by SPHP’s travails dealing with all the deadfall, Lupe finally made it to the first saddle along the ridge SE of Willow Mountain. The original plan for the day had included an off-trail jaunt up to the top of Willow Mountain(10,785 ft.) before pressing on to Whitewater Baldy. However, one look at the atrocious situation toward Willow was enough to put an end to any such notion, at least for now.
Approaching the first saddle along the ridge SE of Willow Mountain. Photo looks SSE.Nearly a mile of this sort of off-trail nonsense put the kibosh on an early attempt on Willow Mountain. Photo looks WNW.
Eh, maybe later? Whitewater Baldy first! Lupe continued SE. The topo map showed Crest Trail No. 182 staying NE of the first long hill topping the ridgeline, but it actually traversed the steeper SW slope. At the far SE end of the long hill, Loop came to a clearing where several small rock outcroppings provided the first unobstructed views of the day.
HP10510, the next hill along the SE ridge, was directly ahead. Beyond it, Hummingbird Saddle connected to Whitewater Baldy (10,895 ft.). Off to the W, Lupe had her first view ever of Arizona, less than 25 miles away. Closer by, Grouse Mountain(10,135 ft.), Indian Peak(10,115 ft.) and Black Mountain(10,643 ft.) were all in sight.
HP10510 (L) and Whitewater Baldy (R) with Hummingbird Saddle between them. Photo looks SE.Black Mountain (R of Center) with Sacaton Mountain beyond it. Indian Peak (R). Photo looks SSW.Arizona on the horizon! Holt Mountain(9,780 ft.) (R of Center), Grouse Mountain (R). Photo looks SW.
In addition to views, there were voices, too! Down the slope to the N, the 3 young men were dismantling a blue tent. Seeing Lupe, they shouted greetings. However, their backpacking trip was over. The wearying deadfall and an eerie night in the dead forest had convinced them to head back to their Mazda 6. Next stop – some hot springs. Was the Carolina Dog still going to Whitewater Baldy?
Darn tootin’! She was!
Just down the hill, the 3 young men were preparing to bail on their backpacking trip in favor of some hot springs. Photo looks NNE.
Whitewater Baldy was only 1.5 miles away, but getting there was still no easy task. Took a while just to get to Hummingbird Saddle. The deadfall was so bad that it was sometimes better venturing off-trail. Crest Trail No. 182 never did go to the top of HP10510, instead traversing its SW slope. It wasn’t until the descent to Hummingbird Saddle began that the deadfall began to ease up.
Such a lovely rest spot, site of a brief water and chocolate coconut bar break.Where the trail went was easy to see. Following it was the hard part. Photo looks SE.Ahh! Much better now on the way down to Hummingbird Saddle. Whitewater Baldy (Center). Photo looks S.
Hummingbird Saddle hadn’t burned. Live conifers provided shade along the edges of a grassy clearing. Toward the W stood a big Z sign. Since Hummingbird Saddle was a trail junction, there was some trail signage, too. Lupe found the shade most enticing, so a rest break was taken here.
Hummingbird Saddle – an oasis amid devastation. Whitewater Baldy (Center). Photo looks S.By the Z sign. Photo looks WSW.Trail signage minus its original support.
Rest break over, Loop started up Whitewater Baldy’s N slope. Would have been a cake walk minus the deadfall, but it really wasn’t too bad. Parts of the trail had been worse. The Z sign more or less described the route – back and forth searching for the easiest way up.
Heading up Whitewater Baldy’s N slope. Photo looks S.
The slope steepened for a while, then finally began to diminish. One last rise appeared ahead. The top of the mountain wasn’t much farther!
Approaching the last rise. Photo looks S.
Upon reaching the upper edge of the rise, Lupe discovered a small cairn. However, this wasn’t the high point. Whitewater Baldy’s summit region was big, maybe 20 acres, and it all sloped gradually up toward the S. The entire summit had burned and was choked with deadfall. Leaping her way through it all, a massive 6 foot high cairn appeared ahead at the far S edge of the mountain.
Approaching the massive cairn at Whitewater Baldy’s true summit. Photo looks SSE.
An almost dead calm had prevailed all day, but as Lupe approached the true summit cairn, a strong breeze suddenly sprang up out of the W. A general shrieking and moaning commenced. A minute or two later it all died away with the wind. Spooky!
Reaching the cairn, Lupe scrambled up.
At Whitewater Baldy’s true summit! Mogollon Baldy (L of Center). Photo looks SSE.Success! Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.Whitewater Baldy’s summit region from the cairn. The top of Willow Mountain (L of Center) is visible in the background. Photo looks NW.
Time for a nice long break! SPHP cleared a spot under a log where Lupe could relax in a bit of shade. Water and the last of 3 chocolate coconut bars got shared. SPHP then munched an apple while Loop got up to sniff around. There were views in all directions, but the only unobstructed views were to the S and W. Meanwhile, the strange gusty wind returned at regular intervals, bringing with it the forlorn wailing.
Relaxing under the log. Photo looks E.Mogollon Baldy (Center). Photo looks SSE with help from the telephoto lens.
No wonder those guys said they’d spent an eerie night! Must have been a little unnerving listening to this in the dark!
The trees aren’t happy, SPHP!
Burning to death has that effect on most anyone, Loop.
Oh, that happened years ago, SPHP. They don’t feel pain any more, but they’re terrified.
Terrified? Of what?
Of dying.
Don’t be silly, Loopster! They’re already dead!
Their spirits don’t know that, SPHP.
You mean the trees’ spirits are still here?
Yes, their ghosts.
The trees’ ghosts are afraid of dying? That doesn’t make any sense.
Sure it does, SPHP! I’ll explain in a moment. There’s something in this cairn!
As the conversation had gone on, Lupe had begun circling Whitewater Baldy’s summit cairn, sniffing more and more intently. Apparently the Carolina Dog detected some animal ensconced inside this stone fortress.
Investigating the summit cairn. Photo looks SW.
Repeated efforts to get at whatever it was all failed, but that didn’t keep the American Dingo from trying. Again and again Lupe circled the cairn, sometimes barking furiously in frustration. All to no discernable effect.
Probing the cairn. Black Mountain(10,643 ft.) (L of Center) with Sacaton Mountain(10,640 ft.) (L) beyond it. Photo looks SW.
Dead trees shrieked and groaned. Looper stayed busy probing the cairn. For a long while, SPHP gazed into the unfamiliar distances of New Mexico.
Finally, enough was enough.
Give it up, Loopster! What about the trees’ ghosts? Why do they think they’re still alive, and worry about dying?
Panting from her efforts, Lupe paused and laid down near the cairn.
You hear them, SPHP! They still have voices! That’s why they believe they are still alive. But the wind that enables them to speak is terrifying, since it threatens to blow them over. If they fall, they’ll be dead, unable to ever speak again. That’s why they’re screaming!
Must be terrible for them, Loop. They can only talk when they’re in danger!
Oh, that’s not true, SPHP. They aren’t always afraid.
They’re not?
No. They still have happy times. When the breeze is gentle, they whisper of their days of glory.
Glory?
Yes, they remember the green living forest that once was here. Whitewater Baldy is the highest peak in the Mogollon Mountains. These trees were the loftiest – rulers of the vast domain you see all around us.
Hmm. Well, that’s quite the tale, Loop. I suppose you’re right. Guess I never realized how attuned Carolina Dogs are to the nature of things.
We Dingoes know many secrets hidden from you humans, SPHP.
No doubt, Loopster. Well, we’ve been here a while. Spooky Whitewater Baldy has been interesting to say the least, but are you ready to head back? Maybe there’s still time to climb Willow Mountain?
I thought you’d given up on that, SPHP?
Oh, I don’t know. Maybe its worth a shot? We made it up here.
Lupe took a final look at the views from the S edge of the mountain. She posed by the cairn still harboring its intriguing unidentified resident. An hour after arriving, the Carolina Dog left Whitewater Baldy(10,895 ft.), this time staying close to the W edge of the summit region as she circled back to the N slope leading down to Hummingbird Saddle.
Center Baldy(10,535 ft.) (L), Sacaton Mountain (R) and Black Mountain (far R). Photo looks SW.Willow Mountain (Center) from Whitewater Baldy. Photo looks NW.By the fascinating cairn. Photo looks SE.Starting down the N slope. Willow Mountain (Center). Photo looks NW.
On the way down Whitewater Baldy’s N slope, the gusty wind died away for the last time. Silence reigned once more. Somehow the journey back seemed easier. Lupe arrived SE of Willow Mountain(10,785 ft.) with what appeared to be plenty of daylight to justify an attempt.
The American Dingo made a valiant effort and considerable progress, but the deadfall was horrendous, far worse than anything encountered at Whitewater Baldy. A few small grassy spots, but the rest of the region was a thicket of young aspens amid stacks of blowdown. Loop reached rock formations along the SW edge of the long slope leading toward Willow Mountain’s summit, but more than an hour had already slipped by. She kept going a while longer, but SPHP finally called a halt.
A relatively clear spot on the way up Willow Mountain. Photo looks NW.
Not happening, Looper!
You sure, SPHP? It’s not that much farther!
Yeah, but this is taking forever. Probably farther than it looks, too. We might get there before our daylight’s gone, but I don’t want to spend hours scrambling through this mess in the dark trying to get back to Crest Trail No. 182. Not worth it!
Even from here, getting back to Crest Trail No. 182 was an ordeal. At one point Lupe got separated from SPHP by a continuous wall of deadfall hundreds of feet long and more than 10 feet high. The American Dingo ran along, hopping from log to log searching for an opening, unable to find one. In the end, SPHP had to climb over the wall to rejoin her.
What’s that, SPHP?
Something blue, shiny, and unnatural had caught Lupe’s attention.
The shiny blue thing.
That’s a balloon, Loop!
Well, what does that tell you, SPHP? Guess it’s a good thing we gave up. Even a balloon can’t get to the top of Willow Mountain!
(End – 8:43 PM, 46ºF)
On Whitewater Baldy, Mogollon Mountains, New Mexico 5-17-21
