In early May, 2015, SPHP’s spouse presented SPHP with the book Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide by Ernie Lakusta as a gift. This 160 page book was published in 2004 by Altitude Publishing Canada Ltd., The Canadian Rockies, 1500 Railway Avenue, Canmore, Alberta T1W 1P6. ISBN 1-55153-636-6 (pbk.)
Lupe and SPHP spent much of Lupe’s 2013 & 2014 summer Dingo Vacations in the spectacular Canadian Rockies. So SPHP was excited to have the opportunity to learn more about the region when SPHP received the Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide by Ernie Lakusta as a gift.
SPHP wasn’t exactly sure what the book was going to be about, but it turns out the title accurately describes it as a history explorer. This is not a book for anyone looking for hiking/backpacking trails or mountaineering information for planning new excursions into the Canadian wilderness. It is a book for anyone interested in the history of the exploration of the Banff and Lake Louise areas.
The Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide starts with some of what little is known about early settlement of the region by prehistoric peoples, but mainly deals with the history of exploration by those of European descent starting with the Palliser Expedition led by Captain John Palliser in 1858. The book features many black and white photos of explorers, climbers, guides, politicians, and businessmen important during the frontier days and early development of the area.
The book’s chapters are organized mainly by geographical regions in and around Banff and Lake Louise. There are maps showing the locations of many mountain peaks, rivers, lakes and glaciers. In addition to the historical black and white photos, which focus mainly on individuals, there are many color photographs. The color photographs mostly feature various mountain peaks, but also include waterfalls, lakes, rivers, glaciers, wildlife and other points of interest. Within each region’s chapter, each of the most prominent mountains has a write-up of its own giving the summit elevation and anywhere from a paragraph to a page of historical information about the peak.
At the end of the book are a chronology, references, and an index. The references list many sources of more detailed information which might be of interest to the reader.
SPHP enjoyed reading the many stories in Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide about the historical personalities and their connections to the mountains. (SPHP was a little disappointed that Bill Peyto was not mentioned.) SPHP especially enjoyed the color photographs and write ups on mountains Lupe and SPHP have seen during Lupe’s two trips to the Canadian Rockies. Although the book contains no information on specific trails for present day exploring, SPHP did get some ideas on new places Lupe might want to check out the next time she and SPHP get back to the Canadian Rockies.
Overall, the Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide is an excellent concise introduction to the general history of the early exploration and settlement of the Canadian Rockies. Reading it and seeing all the beautiful mountain photographs made SPHP eager to return to the Canadian Rockies with Lupe. This book is a great souvenir of the Canadian Rockies, but if you want to get out and explore them you will need more detailed information from other sources. The Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide can, however, give you ideas on where you might like to go.
It was 41°F and still totally overcast when Lupe and SPHP woke up in the G6. It had rained a little during the night, but by now the pavement was mostly dry. SPHP drove over to a picnic area near the N end of the Bow Parkway. No one else was around yet. While SPHP made a bit of breakfast, Lupe sniffed around. There wasn’t too much for her to do since the squirrels weren’t even up yet.
On the drive over to the picnic ground, SPHP had seen new snow high up on the mountains. Not so much to the E & S, but a fair amount to the N. The gray skies, mountaintops lost in the clouds, and new snow made the mountains look beautiful, but also remote and vaguely threatening.
After breakfast, Lupe and SPHP drove over to Lake Louise Village so SPHP could mail a postcard. While there, SPHP chanced to meet a 74 year old man from San Diego, CA. He was friendly and talkative. He was on a six month tour of the Canadian Rockies and the American West in a little motor home all by himself.
That sounded pretty awesome! SPHP enjoyed chatting with him. The man mentioned the hike to Sherbrooke Lake as a pretty nice one, and not too long. It sounded like a good idea to SPHP on a cool, drippy, overcast day when the mountains were hidden in the clouds anyway.
Sherbrooke Lake from the SE shore, Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada
Lupe and SPHP had actually planned to go to Sherbrooke Lake while in the Canadian Rockies back in 2013, but SPHP had not found the trailhead. This time, with the help of a tip from the guy from San Diego, it wasn’t a problem.
From Lake Louise, Lupe and SPHP headed N and then W on the Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 past the turn off for the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93. After entering Yoho National Park, SPHP slowed down when Wapta Lake came into view on the S side of the highway. On the N side of the highway across from the lake is the Great Divide Lodge. SPHP turned into the big parking lot for the Great Divide Lodge. It turned out the trailhead wasn’t there, but SPHP knew it had to be close by.
Getting back on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 and continuing W just 0.25 mile from the Great Divide Lodge, SPHP saw another turnoff on the N side of the highway. There was no sign, but this was the correct turn for the Sherbrooke Lake trailhead. The road went N up a little hill, and then curved E to end at the trailhead parking lot, which wasn’t far from the highway at all. There were no other vehicles at the misty trailhead. Low gray clouds were dripping light rain sporadically when Lupe set out on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake.
The trail goes through the forest the entire 3.1 km to Sherbrooke Lake. Nearly all of the 165 m elevation gain occurs on the first part of the trail before it reaches a junction at 1.4 km with a trail to the lookout on Paget Peak(8,465 ft.). Ordinarily, SPHP would have been tempted to check out Paget Peak, but it seemed pointless to climb up into the fog. The last part of the trek to Sherbrooke Lake was a pleasant stroll through the dripping forest with little elevation change. Lupe was pretty damp, but in good spirits when she reached Sherbrooke Lake along its SE shore.
A damp Lupe reaches the SE shore of Sherbrooke Lake in Yoho National Park, British Columbia, Canada. Photo is looking N.
Under the overcast skies, Sherbrooke Lake was a light gray-green color. The air was calm, and the lake was smooth with hardly a ripple on its surface. The trail continued another 1.4 km along the E shore of the lake to the far N end.
Everything was sopping wet, as Lupe and SPHP headed N along the lakeshore trail. Little streams crossed the trail on their way down into the lake. Small birds were perched up in the trees near the water’s edge. Lupe barked enthusiastically at them. There were even a few squirrels around. Her barking echoed through the valley, but no one else was around to care.
The NW shore of Sherbrooke Lake.
At the far NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake, the trail went into some terrain covered with tall bushes as it started around the N shore. Here there were larger creeks flowing down into the lake. The trail started to fade quickly as it went into the wet bushes. There were rounded stones on the ground and muddy places. SPHP got the impression that this whole area Lupe was approaching was a big wash where a larger braided stream was depositing rocks and mud, slowly filling in the N end of the lake.
It was starting to rain more steadily. The trail was fading away as it headed into the tall wet bushes. The larger streams Lupe now encountered were difficult to cross without getting wet. It was becoming clear that continuing on meant both Lupe and SPHP would get totally soaked. Without adequate rain gear, it was time to turn around. Lupe was just as happy barking at birds on the way back S along the E shore of the lake, as she had been going N.
Looking back to the S from the NE corner of Sherbrooke Lake.
Lupe and SPHP had seen no one at all on the entire trip to Sherbrooke Lake, but on the way back a couple from Edmonton appeared at the junction with the trail to the Paget Peak lookout. They were very nice and SPHP chatted with them for a while.
The Edmonton couple were on their way to the N end of Sherbrooke Lake where Lupe had just been, except they were going to continue on beyond the lake. They said that the trail does not end at the N end of Sherbrooke Lake. Not too far N of the lake is a headwall. The trail climbs up and over the headwall to some fantastically beautiful territory (Niles Meadows) and goes on toward Niles Peak. Definitely worth checking out sometime, but sissy SPHP wanted to do it in better weather.
The Edmonton couple was justifiably excited about a trip to the Himalayas they were going to take in the relatively near future. They planned on spending time at a 14,000 foot elevation base camp near Mt. Everest, although they had no plans to climb Everest. The airfare there was the big expense. They could hire a Sherpa for $10 per day to haul all of their gear, cook, make camp, etc. SPHP made a mental note to cross Sherpa off the list of possible career opportunities.
Of more immediate interest to SPHP was another trek in the Canadian Rockies that they recommended. Across the Icefields Parkway Hwy No. 93 from the Crowfoot Glacier near Bow Lake is the Helen Lake trailhead. From Helen Lake it is possible to climb up to the top of Cirque Peak where there are fabulous views of the Wapta Icefield, Bow Lake and Bow Glacier Falls. Two days later Lupe and SPHP actually climbed Cirque Peak. The experience was everything the couple from Edmonton promised it would be and more!
Just before 1:00 PM, a very soggy Lupe was back at the trailhead. Lupe hopped right into the G6 and began licking herself dry. She’d had a great time on the trail to Sherbrooke Lake. It really had been an enjoyable outing and had only taken a few hours. Sometime in the future Lupe and SPHP hope to return to see Niles Meadows.
Lupe’s 2014 visit to Sherbrooke Lake was over. It rained for a while. Lupe and SPHP took a nap. By the time SPHP woke up, the rain had tapered off. Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise Village. There was still time left in the day to do something else. Lupe and SPHP headed for Moraine Lake for a walk along the lakeshore trail.
Lupe at Moraine Lake, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-14
From the big rock pile at the outlet end of Moraine Lake, SPHP was amazed how blue the lake was despite the still cloudy skies.
Moraine Lake and Valley of the Ten Peaks from the rock pile.
After dinner, Lupe and SPHP went to Lake Louise to take a wonderful evening stroll to the end of the lake.
Lupe took an evening stroll along beautiful Lake Louise to the far side of the lake. Mt. Lefroy(11,293 ft.) (L) and Mount Victoria(11,375 ft.) (center) visible in the distance.The Chateau du Lac Louise is visible beyond Lupe across Lake Louise, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-25-14
The views at Lake Louise looked even a bit more spectacular this evening with the bit of fresh snow from last night still lingering on the peaks.
The hike from Chateau Lake Louise up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail beneath Mt. Victoria(11,375 ft.) is one of the most popular and beautiful classic day hikes in the Canadian Rockies. Expect plenty of company on any nice day, and a hard time getting a parking place during the middle of the day. Access is from Lake Louise Village along the Trans-Canada Hwy 1 in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada. The hike starts at the Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail in front of Chateau Lake Louise at the E end of the lake.
Lupe arrived early for this marvelous hike, which she had done once before back in 2013, but rainy overcast conditions delayed a start until mid-morning, by which time the rain had stopped and the skies were clearing at Chateau Lake Louise. Mt. Victoria was still lost in the clouds. Before Lupe even got started, a friendly Chinese lady saw her near the boathouse where they rent out canoes. She was instantly entranced with Lupe, and Lupe politely posed for several pictures near the lake.
Lupe at Lake Louise. Mt. Victoria is in the clouds at the far end of the lake.
Lupe took the most direct route to the Plain of Six Glaciers, which starts with the Lake Louise Lakeshore Trail. From Chateau Lake Louise at the E end of the lake, the trail goes right along the N shore of Lake Louise. It is an easy 2.0 km stroll gaining no elevation all the way to the W end of the lake. Beyond the lake is the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail, which continues W upstream along the N side of the valley floor. It goes through a small section where shallow glacial meltwaters were running over the trail, and then starts rising up the N side of the valley. As the trail continues W, it begins to climb faster and eventually incorporates some switchbacks.
Lupe and her new friend Bill from China not far from the Plain of Six Glaciers tea house. (Not pictured)
At 5.5 km from Chateau Lake Louise, Lupe reached a little plaza with benches near the Plain of the Six Glaciers Tea House. On the last stretch of trail prior to reaching the plaza, the son of the friendly Chinese lady had caught up with Lupe and showed an interest in her, too. At the little plaza, he started feeding chipmunks and squirrels crumbs. This activity was of great interest to Lupe, and she could barely contain her excitement. Soon the friendly Chinese lady and her husband showed up and there were several more photos taken of Lupe with her new Chinese friends.
Lupe with new Chinese friends Peiling and her son Bill. Next time Lupe is in China, she will be staying with them!
Since Lupe is not interested in tea, she continued on the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail beyond the tea house. This portion of the trail soon leaves the forest as it approaches Mt. Victoria at the W end of the valley. The trail becomes rocky and eventually gets up on the (former) lateral moraine of the glacier coming down the Deathtrap between Mt. Lefroy(11, 293 ft.) and Mt. Victoria. The end of the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail is about 1.5 km from the tea house (7.0 km from Chateau Lake Louise) on steep rocky slopes above the end of the lateral moraine and just below Mt. Victoria.
Lupe near the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail. The Deathtrap is visible between Mt. Lefroy on the left and Mt. Victoria on the right. 7-24-14
When Lupe reached the end of the Plain of the Six Glaciers Trail, no one else was there, although a few people were either coming up or had just started on their way back down. Intermittent show showers and gusts of wind made it seem like late fall or early winter instead of late July. The sky was completely overcast. A thin fog hung in the cool air. Although Lupe could see the top of Mt. Lefroy and the upper reaches of Mt. Victoria, Abbot Hut at the top of the Deathtrap was not visible. Lake Louise and Chateau Lake Louise looked very small and far away back down the huge valley to the E.
Lupe at the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail. Lake Louise is visible far down the valley to the E.
After some photos and a bit to eat at the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail, the weather was deteriorating. It was time to head back to Lake Louise. Soon after getting down off the lateral moraine, SPHP heard someone calling out. It was the friendly Chinese lady wanting a few more pictures with Lupe! Lupe and SPHP wound up hiking all the way back down to Chateau Lake Louise with the friendly Chinese family.
Although language was a significant barrier, the Chinese understood and could speak enough English so a good time was had by all. Leo was the husband’s name, Peiling the wife’s name, and Bill the son’s name. Peiling even taught SPHP to say “Ni Hao Ma”. (Pleased to meet you!)
Lupe’s new friends are from the city of Foshan in Guangdong province of China, which SPHP later learned is not too far NW of Hong Kong. They invited Lupe to come and visit them! We shall see. You never know. Lupe is an adventurous dingo!
Click here to see Lupe’s post on her July 21, 2013 adventures on The Plain of Six Glaciers trail at Lake Louise!
