10-28-21 – Lupe could hardly believe her big soft Dingo ears! Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and Cousin Dusty were coming from Colorado. Not only would they be here tonight, but Lupe had a brand new cousin that was coming with them, too!
When Cousin Laddie gets here, Loop, you’re going to have to be extra nice to him. Laddie’s had a tough life and might be scared. He’s a nice dog, a little Sheltie not even as big as you. So, no growling or rough-housing! Got that?
Why? What happened to Cousin Laddie, SPHP?
Oh, I don’t know the whole story, but Laddie’s been at the shelter. He got adopted, but a few months ago Laddie was grabbed by the neck and torn into by another dog in the same family that adopted him, and was just about done in. To survive, Laddie needed thousands of dollars worth of surgery. The fur on his chest is still growing back. Laddie’s also missing almost all his front teeth, which were rotten and had to be pulled back when he first got to the shelter.
No teeth? My poor cousin! His bark must be worse than his bite!
Probably right about that, Loop, but he still has his back teeth.
How come you’ve never mentioned Cousin Laddie before, SPHP?
Because he’s a brand new cousin. He just joined the family when Aunt Andrea and Uncle Joe agreed to adopt him, since he couldn’t stay with the same family any longer after being attacked. In fact, Laddie is his new name. He used to be called Danny Boy.
It was all true! Later that evening Uncle Joe, Aunt Andrea, and Cousins Dusty and Laddie did arrive. Loopster raced around barking for joy, wild with delight! Extremely curious about Cousin Laddie, she sniffed and sniffed. SPHP hadn’t said anything about sniffing. Lupe sniffed so much that Laddie maybe did get a little scared, but nothing bad happened.
The amazing thing about Cousin Laddie was that he was almost the same color as Lupe. Laddie’s fur was a lot longer, though, except on his chest where it had been cut. Laddie did have one front tooth, an upper canine on the L side. That lone tooth gave Laddie sort of a crooked smile. SPHP later said that Uncle Joe and Aunt Andrea should have named him Snaggle Fang.
10-29-21, Centennial Trail No. 89, Alkali Creek trailhead – Everyone was excited! Cousin Laddie was about to get his first introduction to the Black Hills. Cousin Dusty was 15 now, so the hike had to be a relatively easy one. The stretch of Centennial Trail No. 89 N of the Alkali Creek trailhead to a ridge overlooking the old 7th cavalry post at Fort Meade was one of Uncle Joe’s favorites, and would do nicely. He always called it the Ponderosa hike.
The first part of the trail was an easy stroll through the grasslands. Soon Bear Butte(4,422 ft.) was coming into view. At the top of a rise, the trail diverged by a gate in a barbed wire fence. Centennial Trail No. 89 went L here, heading W for a forested ridge.
Upon entering the forest at the base of the ridge, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued W, working steadily higher on a winding course. At nearly the end of October, autumn leaves still clinging to the scrub oaks were well past their scenic best, but did add splashes of color. Cousin Dusty, a veteran of many prior adventures in the Black Hills, was doing great! She often took turns leading the way with Lupe.
Still unaccustomed to the Black Hills and his new life, Cousin Laddie was happiest sticking close to Uncle Joe.
Centennial Trail No. 89 reached the top of the ridge at its far S end. Here the trail leveled out. Peak4027, true summit of the entire mile long ridge, was only a little farther N. The trail went practically right to it, but never did go quite all the way to the top, sweeping around the hillside E of the summit instead.
Naturally, being this close, Lupe had to tag the high point! The Carolina Dog left Centennial Trail No. 89, venturing up to the summit. Everyone else followed as a matter of course.
It took only a couple of minutes to reach the top, a big, flat, grassy field ringed by Ponderosa pines in most directions. Lupe, SPHP, Cousin Dusty, and Uncle Joe had all been here before, but this was Cousin Laddie’s first Black Hills peakbagging success. Peak 4027 was super easy, but Laddie seemed happy enough with it.
A short break was taken up on Peak 4027. Although trees blocked the views in most directions, Bear Butte and the prairies E of the Black Hills were on display. SPHP had brought apples and chocolate coconut bars. Uncle Joe shared Kirkland bars. All of the dogs enjoyed some chocolate coconut bar, and Cousin Dusty even wanted the apple cores. Water was available, too.
When all the goodies were gone, it was time to continue on. From Peak 4027, Centennial Trail No. 89 ran another 0.75 mile all the way to the far N end of the ridge. Most of this route was forested, but there was a big clearing approaching HP3983, and a little past HP3983 was a viewpoint off to the L (W) overlooking I-90.
At the N end of the ridge was another viewpoint overlooking the town of Sturgis. Oyster Mountain(4,040 ft.), Sly Hill(3,920 ft.), and Peak 3950 were all in sight, too.
From the Sturgis viewpoint, the trail began descending NE. Halfway down the mountain it curved back into a valley to the S, then turned NE again upon reaching the valley floor. Scrub oaks were the most scenic feature of this trek, especially lower down where, protected from the wind, they still had quite a few leaves.
The valley of the scrub oaks eventually led clear down to Old Stone Road. Centennial Trail No. 89 crossed the road, entering a larger, flatter drainage which continued NE out toward the prairie. The trail soon curved E, but everyone abandoned it to take a shortcut up a grassy slope onto the ridge to the N.
Overlooking both Fort Meade and Bear Butte(4,422 ft.), the top of this ridge was the traditional end of the “Ponderosa Hike”.
Hardly a cloud in the sky, and incredibly warm for practically the end of October! A little farther W along the ridge, everyone hid out from the sun in the shade of a few large pine trees enjoying a second rest break. More bars, more apples, more water!
When the time came to start back, there was some discussion of possibly exploring farther W first. In the end, though, the whole pack headed right back down the grassy ridge’s S slope.
Rejoining Centennial Trail No. 89 down in the wide drainage, the pack followed it SW only a short distance. Before reaching Old Stone Road, it was decided not to return via the ridge leading to Peak 4027. Instead, a different trail was taken that went S down on the rolling prairie.
Near the end, Centennial Trail No. 89 was eventually rejoined at the gate where it turned W going up to the forested ridge and Peak 4027. Getting just plain hot out! The sun was a beast with the temperature soaring into the mid 70’s ºF. In their fur coats, Lupe, Dusty and Laddie were all panting, tongues hanging out on the final stretch.
Arrival back at the Alkali Creek trailhead was promptly celebrated with a much anticipated cold drink out of Alkali Creek. Lupe and Laddie both eagerly waded in and drank their fill, but Dusty wasn’t satisfied with just getting her paws and insides wet. Instead, she plunked herself right down in the stream and stayed there.
No one was going anywhere, and Black Hills Expedition No. 281 wasn’t finished, until Cousin Dusty was ready to declare it over and done with. Taking her sweet time about it, Dusty finally got sufficiently cooled down to come dripping out of Alkali Creek.
A little under 4 hours round trip on a summery October afternoon, the Ponderosa hike had been a great choice! Easy enough for Dusty, and a gentle introduction to Black Hills peakbagging for Laddie, the day had been a success.
7:19 AM, 26ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Elk Creek trailhead – SPHP opened the door, and Lupe hopped back into the G6.
What’s wrong, Looper? Did you hear gunfire?
No! It’s freezing out there! What happened, SPHP? Last time we were here, it was so nice out! I’m staying in where it’s warm until you’re ready.
Maybe you shouldn’t have rolled in the snow? Anyway, suit yourself. I’ll be ready in a few minutes. Supposed to warm up into the 60’s ºF later on. That’ll take the chill off!
What was wrong with the Carolina Dog? A frolic in the snow wouldn’t ordinarily bother Lupe at all, but now she sat alone shivering in the G6. Was Looper getting sick? SPHP hoped not.
Only 5 days ago, Lupe had made it here from Dalton Lake on a lovely warm afternoon in advance of a spring snowstorm that hit the Black Hills the next day. Although a lot of snow had melted since then, this morning was admittedly off to a crispy start. The plan was to continue Loopster’s Centennial Trail No. 89 explorations all the way to the Alkali Creek trailhead – 11.5 long, winding miles away.
If she felt up to it, that is.
Alrighty, Loop! I’m ready! Are you feeling OK? You up for this?
Without the slightest hesitation, the American Dingo left the warmth of the G6. No sign of shivering or shaking now.
Of course! Which way? N?
Yes, indeed! Onward! Puppy ho!
Crossing USFS Road No. 168, Lupe left the Elk Creek trailhead.
Crusty snow supported Lupe’s weight, but crumbled under SPHP’s, as Centennial Trail No. 89 headed NNE up a cold ravine still in shadow. The trail soon climbed out of the ravine to a flatter region to the NW where the forest had been thinned recently. The fresh openness revealed only a general ugliness in the wake of recent destruction.
This jaunt to the NW was short-lived. Climbing again, the trail looped back to the E before resuming a NE course. Sunlight streamed through the trees, promising relief from the lingering chill.
A moderately steep rate of ascent soon diminished. Centennial Trail No. 89 flattened again, as Loop reached another region where the forest had been thinned. She was almost to the top of a rise when the trail curved N, avoiding it. Curious about what might be on the other side, Lupe left the trail continuing to the high ground.
The rise provided a glimpse of distant prairies beyond the Black Hills, but nothing stood out as being of particular interest.
Turning NW, Lupe went down a snowy slope to rejoin Centennial Trail No. 89 where it crossed USFS Road No. 169 S of HP5141. From here, the trail went WNW maintaining elevation along a slope providing a more interesting view to the W.
Upon reaching a saddle between HP5141 and HP5212 (topo map), Loop passed a sign indicating she had left the Elk Creek trailhead a mile ago. Crossing the saddle, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued W traversing the slope at the S end of the HP5212 ridge.
After rounding the S end, the trail wound along the W side of the ridge. Elevation changes were gradual, down slightly at first, then higher as Lupe continued on. Views were pleasant, but always tree-broken.
Close to the N end of the ridge, Lupe reached a wide spot at the bottom of a switchback. According to a sign, this was point S15 of the Sturgis area trails system. Another trail destined for the Sturgis City Dams veered off to the SW.
Any interest in the Sturgis City Dams, SPHP?
Not today, Loop. Got a different side trip in mind. We’re almost to it.
Sticking with Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe headed up the switchback, which made a jog to the W before turning NE. Pass 5140 was just ahead.
Arriving at Pass 5140, Lupe found herself in a field. The S half of this field was snow-covered and sloped up the N end of the HP5212 ridge. Peak5261, the actual high point of the ridge, was somewhere up among the pines, not too far away.
Peakbagging time! Leaving Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe headed up the snowy slope. Didn’t take long to reach a first high spot where the terrain leveled out. A slightly higher point was only a few hundred feet away. Going over there, Lupe arrived at Peak 5261’s true summit.
9:16 AM, 47ºF, Peak 5261 –
That was easy, SPHP! Glad we came up here, too! These views are way better than what we’ve been seeing from the trail! Can we stay a while?
Sure thing, Loop! A little early for a break, but so what? Peak 5261 is the highest point anywhere close to this segment of Centennial Trail No. 89. Might as well enjoy it! Only peak we’ll be climbing today.
The highest ground consisted of a line of smallish loose rocks. SPHP found a spot to sit down. Lupe tried laying on the rocks, but SPHP’s lap was a comfier vantage point. Facing WSW, both Custer Peak(6,804 ft.) and Terry Peak(7,064 ft.) were easily recognizable on the horizon.
A pleasant time was spent gazing at the views, during which a chocolate coconut bar met its match. Lupe turned down part of a fried chicken breast, but SPHP wasn’t so picky. Water wasn’t in demand, either, since the Carolina Dog had been eating snow. Near the end of Looper’s stay, SPHP realized there was a fairly decent view of Bear Butte(4,422 ft.) from here, too.
40 minutes shot by. A final look around, and Lupe was on her way back down Peak 5261’s N slope. Upon reaching Centennial Trail No. 89 again, she headed down the SE side of Pass 5140.
Still more than 9 miles to the Alkali Creek trailhead! Looper would lose elevation most of the way, but that didn’t start in earnest quite yet. A short descent from Pass 5140 led to an easy uphill section heading NNE along the edge of the forest. Last chance for a glance back at Peak5261.
Although the topo map(switch to CalTopo USFS to see route) showed Centennial Trail No. 89 following USFS Road No. 139 in the region ahead, the trail actually remained a single track, staying E and somewhat lower than the road, as it wound N along the upper W end of Beaver Gulch.
A good mile beyond Peak 5261, Centennial Trail No. 89 veered farther from USFS Road No. 139 and went over a little rise. Lupe hadn’t lost all that much elevation yet, a bit over 200 feet. Now, however, a somewhat steeper descent began as the trail turned NW down into Bulldog Gulch. A sense of remoteness grew as Loopster entered the shade of a denser forest. Snow was deep on a long switchback to the ESE, but turning soft as the day warmed up.
The long switchback wasn’t steep at all, but once the Carolina Dog got past it, the trail steepened considerably. Lupe soon reached the bottom of Bulldog Gulch. The trail crossed the drainage several times. Except for the snow, it was dry this high up.
Bulldog Gulch was just beginning to widen out when the trail flattened and veered away to the E. A short incline brought Lupe to a minor pass beyond which she entered a different part of the drainage. For 0.5 mile, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound NE through a sunnier, more open forest, steadily losing elevation.
Eventually, it all led right back to the main course of Bulldog Gulch. Down here, a little water trickled along in Bulldog Creek.
Right after crossing Bulldog Creek, Lupe came to an unusual structure.
Look, SPHP! A ticket booth!
Seems we’re a bit late for the show, Loopster.
Maybe the strange structure was a toll booth and not a ticket booth? The attendant didn’t seem to be around, in any case. Odd, but nothing to be done about it, so Lupe continued on.
The trail crossed Bulldog Creek a couple more times before leaving it for good. Winding N up over a minor ridge, it then descended to a low point where USFS Road No. 139 suddenly reappeared. After crossing the road, Lupe began a more sustained climb out of Bulldog Gulch.
Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation before reaching a ridgeline. On the other side was a sunny meadow, and a view of the prairies beyond the Black Hills. The trail wound NW a bit higher up the ridge before coming to another junction with the Sturgis area trails system, where a side trail continuing up the ridge promised another route to the Sturgis City Dams.
Still a few miles to go, but Lupe had come a long way since Peak 5261. Break time! Loop laid down next to SPHP near a lone little group of Pasque flowers.
Another chocolate coconut bar bit the dust. Just an appetizer this time! Lupe was ready for some Taste of the Wild, too. For some reason, the finicky Carolina Dog still declined fried chicken. SPHP had some, then munched an apple while consulting the map.
So, how are we doing, SPHP?
Great, Loop! Near as I can tell, we’re right at the junction with USFS Road No. 139.1E. Pretty much all downhill the rest of the way.
Road! What road? Do you have that map upside down, SPHP?
Think it’s been abandoned long ago. This side trail to the Sturgis City Dams might be all that’s left of it.
The trek resumed. Centennial Trail No. 89 left the ridgeline continuing NW. Lupe lost elevation slowly at first, but the pace then quickened. Reaching the “Twisted Trunk”, a small opening provided a glimpse of Deadman Mountain(4,943 ft.) off to the W.
The trail made a series of long switchbacks, gradually working its way N. For a long way there was nothing to see except forest. However, Loop made great progress, and the trail eventually reached a wooden fence. A sign posted on a tree next to the fence warned about a friendly dog named Poett that liked to go on long walks with strangers.
No sign of Poett today, so Lupe kept going. The trail turned away from the fence without crossing it, once again heading NW. A thick band of limestone capped a minor ridge up the slope to the R. Centennial Trail No. 89 ran below this cap for 0.25 mile until it angled off to the N.
After a couple of short switchbacks, the trail curved NE, bringing Loop right back to the limestone.
The limestone ended at a gap created by Alkali Creek. As Centennial Trail No. 89 continued NE past a wall of rock, the whole formation sank below the surface. The trail promptly curved E. Now on top of the sunken limestone, Lupe entered a clearing amid a more open forest.
One more switchback, and the long, forested descent was over. Ahead, a vast field stretched toward the roar of traffic on I-90. Prairies beyond the Black Hills were visible through a break in a line of ridges to the E.
Not much farther to go! Lupe headed straight for I-90, passing under a railroad bridge just before reaching it. Two concrete tunnels provided a choice of safe passage below I-90. Once through, Centennial Trail No. 89 turned ESE straight for the still unseen Alkali Creek trailhead. Trotting by a line of scrub oaks down in the creek bottom, Lupe went over a rise, and there it was, dead ahead.
2:31 PM, 64ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Alkali Creek trailhead – The S end of Peak4027 rose beyond the trailhead display. Lupe had been up there before, but wouldn’t be making another ascent today. Her 11.5 mile long Centennial Trail No. 89 trek from the Elk Creek trailhead was over, but the Carolina Dog would soon have to turn right back around and repeat it. Going back was the hard way, too, uphill much of the way!
Lupe sauntered down to Alkali Creek for a drink. The afternoon was sunny and warm down here, and snow didn’t exist. Then it was up the bank to rest by the vacant picnic tables amid the leafless oaks.
Lupe wasn’t hungry. While SPHP polished off what was left of the fried chicken, she laid in the shade beneath the picnic table. So nice out! Several vehicles were parked at the trailhead, but no one came around.
3:08 PM, Centennial Trail No. 89 – 30 peaceful minutes had flown. With the Alkali Creek trailhead behind her now, Lupe stood on a little rise looking W. Back to the Black Hills! The Elk Creek trailhead seemed unimaginably far away.
7:16 PM, 44ºF, Peak 5261 – Just in time! Lupe stood bathed in horizontal rays of sunlight, the sun hanging barely above the hills. With few clouds to speak of, sunset wasn’t going to amount to much. Even so, a respite way up here on Peak 5261 from the finally concluded endless uphill march was reward in itself.
Absolutely famished, the American Dingo devoured the remaining Taste of the Wild supply before curling up on SPHP’s lap to watch the show. 10 minutes of glory, and the golden orb fell as if mortally wounded. Sinking N of Terry Peak, it was gone.
In a chilly S breeze, Lupe and SPHP sat watching while a faint rosy blush in the clouds above rallied, then sickened, turning old and gray before its time. Dusk. Oh, well. Still more than 2.5 miles to go. Better make use of what light remained.
Onward! Puppy, ho!
Leaving rarely visited new friend Peak5261 for the second time today, Lupe headed back to Centennial Trail No. 89. (End 9:00 PM, 36ºF)