Book Review: Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide by Ernie Lakusta

In early May, 2015, SPHP’s spouse presented SPHP with the book Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide by Ernie Lakusta as a gift.  This 160 page book was published in 2004 by Altitude Publishing Canada Ltd., The Canadian Rockies, 1500 Railway Avenue, Canmore, Alberta T1W 1P6.  ISBN  1-55153-636-6 (pbk.)

Lupe and SPHP spent much of Lupe’s 2013 & 2014 summer Dingo Vacations in the spectacular Canadian Rockies.  So SPHP was excited to have the opportunity to learn more about the region when SPHP received the Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide by Ernie Lakusta as a gift.

SPHP wasn’t exactly sure what the book was going to be about, but it turns out the title accurately describes it as a history explorer.  This is not a book for anyone looking for hiking/backpacking trails or mountaineering information for planning new excursions into the Canadian wilderness.  It is a book for anyone interested in the history of the exploration of the Banff and Lake Louise areas.

The Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide starts with some of what little is known about early settlement of the region by prehistoric peoples, but mainly deals with the history of exploration by those of European descent starting with the Palliser Expedition led by Captain John Palliser in 1858.  The book features many black and white photos of explorers, climbers, guides, politicians, and businessmen important during the frontier days and early development of the area.

The book’s chapters are organized mainly by geographical regions in and around Banff and Lake Louise.  There are maps showing the locations of many mountain peaks, rivers, lakes and glaciers.  In addition to the historical black and white photos, which focus mainly on individuals, there are many color photographs.  The color photographs mostly feature various mountain peaks, but also include waterfalls, lakes, rivers, glaciers, wildlife and other points of interest.  Within each region’s chapter, each of the most prominent mountains has a write-up of its own giving the summit elevation and anywhere from a paragraph to a page of historical information about the peak.

At the end of the book are a chronology, references, and an index.  The references list many sources of more detailed information which might be of interest to the reader.

SPHP enjoyed reading the many stories in Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide about the historical personalities and their connections to the mountains.  (SPHP was a little disappointed that Bill Peyto was not mentioned.)  SPHP especially enjoyed the color photographs and write ups on mountains Lupe and SPHP have seen during Lupe’s two trips to the Canadian Rockies.  Although the book contains no information on specific trails for present day exploring, SPHP did get some ideas on new places Lupe might want to check out the next time she and SPHP get back to the Canadian Rockies.

Overall, the Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide is an excellent concise introduction to the general history of the early exploration and settlement of the Canadian Rockies.  Reading it and seeing all the beautiful mountain photographs made SPHP eager to return to the Canadian Rockies with Lupe.  This book is a great souvenir of the Canadian Rockies, but if you want to get out and explore them you will need more detailed information from other sources.  The Banff & Lake Louise History Explorer – An Altitude SuperGuide can, however, give you ideas on where you might like to go.

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Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 136 – Cascade Falls (7-12-15)

Cascade Falls isn’t really much of a waterfall.  Instead, it is a short series of pools and rapids on Cascade Creek.  The small upstream pools are very clear and clean with swiftly flowing waters.  They are no more than 3 or 4 feet deep.  Just downstream of the small pools, Cascade Creek pours over a large fan-shaped mineral deposit 5 or 6 feet high into a big deep (over your head!) blue-green swimming hole.  There are more large pools farther downstream, but unlike the clear upstream pools, they tend to be mucky.  Very few tourists ever visit this remote location, but Cascade Falls is often busy with locals cooling off on hot summer days.

On 7-9-15, Xochitl flew in from Chicago.  Lupe and SPHP picked her up at the Rapid City regional airport.  She was in town for just a few days to visit friends and family.  Her plans included spending July 11th at her class reunion at the South Dakota School of Mines & Technology and celebrating her birthday on July 12th with family and friends at Cascade Falls.

On 7-10-15, Xochitl and SPHP went for a hike from Sylvan Lake up to Little Devil’s Tower (6,960 ft.).  This should have been Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 136 for Lupe, but sadly Lupe didn’t get to go.  She had to stay home due to injuries sustained on Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 135 on 6-27-15.  FrankenPuppy was a very dejected Dingo when SPHP told her she couldn’t come with.  She had gotten all worked up when SPHP had started packing up the backpack.  It really didn’t feel right at all to leave Lupe to mope on the floor, but it had to be done.

Cone-On the Luparian didn't get to go to Little Devil's Tower on 7-10-15. She had to stay home to continue healing up.
Cone-On the Luparian didn’t get to go to Little Devil’s Tower on 7-10-15. She had to stay home to continue healing up.
Xochitl at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park on 7-10-15.
Mysterious Ms. X at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park on 7-10-15.

P1060462P1060463P1060464The trek to Little Devil’s Tower proved to be a bit more than Xochitl had been expecting (like twice as much) and the round trip on the trail took more like 4+ hours than the 2 hours she had allotted, but she made it.  (SPHP’s fault for always being overly ambitious.)  Xochitl went to her class reunion on the 11th.

Thistle along the trail to Little Devil's Tower
Thistle along the trail to Little Devil’s Tower
Xochitl near Cathedral Spires on the way to Little Devil's Tower.
Xochitl near Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.) on the way to Little Devil’s Tower.
Xochitl on Little Devil's Tower. Cathedral Spires in the background.
Xochitl on Little Devil’s Tower. Cathedral Spires in the background.
Marmot along the trail.
Marmot along the trail.

The 12th was Xochitl’s birthday and the last full day she was going to be in the Black Hills.  Since Lupe was soon going to get her staples and stitches out anyway on the 14th (which was days later than required by the veterinarians), SPHP decided Lupe may as well come with.  There wasn’t going to be any long trek where Lupe might re-injure herself, just some wading and swimming.  Lupe was ecstatic to be going anywhere!  Once in the G6, SPHP allowed Guille to take Lupe’s head cone off too, and it stayed off for the rest of the outing.  Loopster couldn’t believe her good luck – she was finally free of that torture device!

SPHP was somewhat reluctant to classify Lupe’s trip to Cascade Falls as one of her official Black Hills, SD Expeditions.  All her other expeditions have involved hikes through the mountains.  However, it wasn’t Lupe’s fault she got injured on Expedition No. 135.  SPHP decided to relent and consider this mere outing an official expedition.  Time to cut the wounded Carolina Dog a little slack!  So worthy of the title or not, Cascade Falls officially became Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 136 for Lupe.

Lupe arrived at Cascade Falls around 11:30 AM.  It was a hot, sunny day in the low 90’s – way too hot for a typical hiking expedition, but perfect for a day at Cascade.  Xochitl, Guille, Erik, Ana, Steve & SPHP were all there with Lupe, plus a ton of strangers enjoying the falls too.  There was a picnic with elk burgers, cherries, chips, lemonade, etc.  Lupe just stuck to her Taste of the Wild – even turning down perfectly good elk burgers for it!

Lupe in Cascade Creek. She liked walking (or running) along the shallow lip of the pool.
Lupe in Cascade Creek. She liked walking (or running) along the shallow lip of the pool.

After the picnic, Erik & Ana weren’t into swimming or even wading and left long before the rest of the gang did.  Lupe, SPHP and the rest of the gang made lots of treks back and forth from the picnic table down to the creek during the afternoon.  Lupe had been to Cascade Falls before, but never to spend the day in the creek.  She was having a good time, but sometimes seemed to be wondering what she was supposed to do or what was going to happen next.

Lupe and Guille at Cascade.
Lupe and Guille at Cascade.
Xochitl, Guille & Steve with Lupe at Cascade.
Xochitl, Guille & Steve with Lupe at Cascade.
Xochitl & Lupe at Cascade on Xochi's birthday.
Xochitl & Lupe at Cascade on Xochi’s birthday.

Lupe at Cascade 7-12-15Lupe at Cascade 7-12-15Many strangers were very kind to Lupe.  Some asked about her wound.  Others wanted to pet her.  Lupe enjoyed wading in the creek.  She really didn’t want to swim though.  She doesn’t like water over her head.  Those dingo paws want to be on terra firma.  She seemed genuinely concerned about Xochitl, Steve & SPHP whenever they swam in the big deep blue-green pool.  That dingo wasn’t about to leap in to rescue any of them, though, unless they showed more signs of distress.  American Dingoes aren’t fools, you know!

Lupe claims an island.
Lupe claims an island above the big pool.
Lupe in Cascade Creek 7-12-15
Lupe near her island.
Cascade Falls is just out of the Black Hills. Here Lupe is near the edge of the picnic ground. Cascade Creek is down in the trees. This photo looks WNW towards the surrounding countryside. It’s very unusual for it to be so green approaching mid-July!

For Lupe, it was a most puzzling expedition.  SPHP had never just hung out in the water before.  And having all these people around was very strange, too.  On the other hand, she loved the attention from everyone and seemed to enjoy being cool and partly wet.  She was determined not to get completely wet, though.  It was funny to watch her immediately leap out of the deep water whenever she stepped into a pool where it got up to her chest.

I'm not so sure about this!
I’m not so sure about this!
Lupe asks Xochi if she is OK down there in the big pool. Is it really safe?
Lupe asks Xochi if she is OK down there in the big pool. Is it really safe?
You got yourself in there - you can just get yourself out!
You got yourself in there – you can just get yourself out!
Cascade Falls - the big swimming hole.
Cascade Falls – the big swimming hole.

A little after 5:30 PM, it was time to leave Cascade Falls.  Lupe was sleepy after all the activity and had a relaxing ride home in the G6.  Back home, Xochitl became head chef for her own birthday dinner of curry chicken sweet potatoes.  Steve, Erik & SPHP assisted to some degree.  Although dinner turned out to be quite yummy, Lupe held out for cake and ice cream when it was all over.

Xochitl's birthday!
Happy birthday Xochi!
Cake created by Pillsbury and SPHP!
Cake created by Pillsbury and SPHP!
Xochitl says good-bye to Cone-On the Luparian the morning of 7-13-15 before flying back to Chicago.

Cascade Falls is easy to find.  It is about 10 miles S of Hot Springs, SD on the W side of Hwy 71 (a mile N of the Cheyenne River) at the very S end of the Black Hills of South Dakota.  On flat grassland overlooking the creek is a gravel parking lot, a few covered picnic tables, and a restroom.  No water or other services are available.  There are no fees or permits required.  There is no lifeguard – just a delightful old-fashioned swim/wade at your own risk creek and swimming hole!

Cascade Creek originates just 2 or 3 miles upstream at a series of warm water springs (67°F).  There is another picnic ground called Cascade Springs 2 miles closer to Hot Springs than Cascade Falls.  That picnic ground is more shaded by trees and the creek flows through it, but there is no swimming hole there.  Other attractions near Cascade Falls include the Black Hills Wild Horse Sanctuary, Evans Plunge and the Mammoth Site in Hot Springs, SD, and Wind Cave National Park N of Hot Springs.

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Hesse Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (8-6-14)

It seemed like a very long night.  SPHP kept waking up expecting it to be dawn, but it wasn’t.  Finally dawn came.  The sky was about 50% clear with some haze – a promising start to the day.  Lupe and SPHP were on USFS Road No. 28 at Merle Creek in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming.

Disappointingly, by the time breakfast was done, the sky was completely overcast.  SPHP drove Lupe over to USFS Road No. 29 off Hwy 16 near Hesse Mountain (10,385 ft.) and Hazelton Pyramid (10,534 ft.).  Both peaks were socked in the fog with the darkest clouds around.

Hesse Mountain (L) and Hazelton Pyramid (R). This shot was taken after Lupe had climbed Hesse Mountain from near Road No. 29 and Hwy 16.
Hesse Mountain (L) and Hazelton Pyramid (R). This shot was taken from near Road No. 29 and Hwy 16 after Lupe had climbed Hesse Mountain.

Hope sprang from a patch of blue sky to the W.  SPHP decided Lupe should try Hesse even in the clouds.  If the fog lifted, Lupe would go on to Hazelton Pyramid.  If not, Hesse Mountain would be Lupe’s last peakbagging success of her grand summer of 2014 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies and Beartooths.  SPHP took USFS Road No. 444 to Munkres Pass and parked the G6.  Lupe left for Hesse Mountain at 8:20 AM.  It was 48°F and calm.  Hesse Mountain was still in the fog.

Hesse Mountain
Hesse Mountain in the Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming.  The high point near the center is the true summit, though it is a very close contest with the high point on the left.

There was no trail, but Hesse Mountain is only about 1.25 miles SE of Munkres Pass as the crow flies.  Lupe and SPHP climbed through the forest.  Eventually Lupe reached tree line.  Fog was now swirling around the mountain.  At times Lupe and SPHP could see the summit or in other directions.  Visibility was good enough to guide Lupe to the top.  The area above tree line was dominated by boulder fields interspersed with some grassy areas which became increasingly scarce as Lupe gained elevation.

Lupe nearing the summit of Hesse Mountain.
Lupe nearing the summit of Hesse Mountain.
Looking back towards the N high point (not the true summit) on Hesse Mountain.
Looking back towards the NE high point (not the true summit, but almost as high) on Hesse Mountain.
Near the summit of Hesse Mountain.
Near the summit of Hesse Mountain.

Lupe reached the summit of Hesse Mountain and found a cairn there.  On the other side of the mountain was a steep drop.  Soon fog moved in and completely shut off all views.

Reluctantly, SPHP decided this was it.  There was no sense in having Lupe try to go on to Hazelton Pyramid, which was seldom even in view with all the fog.  With no trails, if the fog moved in and stayed, it would be easy to get turned around and lost.  It didn’t seem that likely, but on the other hand, the Beartooths to the W where Lupe had just come from had been overcast and drippy for several days.  The weather in the Bighorns usually comes from that direction.

Success! Lupe at the Hesse Mountain summit 8-6-14.
Success! Lupe at the Hesse Mountain summit 8-6-14.

Lupe seemed perfectly happy with her ascent of Hesse Mountain.  SPHP was happy with it, too.  At least Lupe had gotten to the summit of Hesse, even if Hazelton Pyramid had to be left for another day on another dingo vacation.  On the way back down, the fog continued to swirl around and come and go.  At times, the views were pretty good.  Five or ten minutes later, the clouds would close in again.  It felt kind of mystical.  Views came and went in unpredictable directions.

The lower NW high point on Hesse Mountain.
The lower NW high point on Hesse Mountain.
Rocks near Hesse Mountain summit.
Rocks near Hesse Mountain summit.
Looking N towards Hwy 16 from Hesse Mountain.
Looking N towards Hwy 16 from Hesse Mountain.

Lupe reached the G6 again at 12:22 PM.  It was a pleasant 65°F, still overcast, calm and almost foggy.  Lupe and SPHP had lunch near the stone pillar at Munkres Pass before heading out.

SPHP hatched another peakbagging plan for Lupe.  Even though she was about to leave the Bighorn Mountains, she might still go up to Warren Peaks (6,650 ft.) or climb Inyan Kara (6,360 ft.) in the Black Hills of Wyoming on the way home.  It didn’t happen.  At a gas station convenience store in Buffalo, WY there was news on the TV about severe storms and flooding in the Black Hills.

Lupe and SPHP just cruised E on I-90 back to the Black Hills of South Dakota and home.  The 74th annual Black Hills Motorcycle Classic was going on in Sturgis, SD.  It was kind of fun to be packed in with huge numbers of motorcyclists flocking to the area.  There were still big clouds around, but the storms seemed to be over in the Black Hills by the time Lupe reached them.

Shortly before 6:00 PM, Lupe arrived home.  Her great summer of 2014 Dingo Vacation all the way to the Canadian Rockies and back was over.  Lupe had been gone 23 days, 22 nights and traveled 3,288 miles in the G6.  Dingoes are very practical.  They don’t dwell on the past or statistics much.  If Lupe was sad that it was all over, she didn’t show it.  As soon as she got home, Lupe happily ran next door to Dog Heaven to hit up the neighbors for a treat.

Hesse Mountain in the Bighorns was Lupe's last peakbagging success of her summer of 2014 Dingo Vacation.
Hesse Mountain in the Bighorns was Lupe’s last peakbagging success of her summer of 2014 Dingo Vacation.

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