Start (9:39 AM, 40°F), intersection of Slate Creek Road (County Road No. 309) & USFS Road No. 424, about 5 miles SE of Deerfield Reservoir
Oh no, not again! Ugh, seriously? What a chow hound! What was that icky red thing over there anyway? Some disgusting carcass no doubt. SPHP called a couple times before Big Sid came running.
No wonder you’re Big Sid, you’ll eat anything no matter how dreadful it is!
Sidney didn’t feel the least bit ashamed of himself. If anything, he took pride in his new found wilderness survival skills. On Expedition No. 69, he’d done the same thing. He’d suddenly disappeared, and after a short search SPHP had found him chomping away on an absolutely vile, sickly green, huge mucous-covered sac or organ he’d found in the woods.
What had it been that time? Maybe a deer liver or stomach. Whatever it was, Lupe had the good sense to show no interest. To SPHP the mere sight of it had been revolting. Yet there was Sidney, gulping it down with evident delight. An hour later, he puked it all up again. Charming. At least he hadn’t waited until he’d been returned home. The neighbors would have loved that.
Lupe wasn’t even 0.5 mile from the G6 yet when Sidney discovered this latest delicacy. Big Sid was only on his 4th expedition with Lupe. If he was going to be a regular, he was going to have to give up this nauseous-treat-in-the-woods routine. Other than that, Sidney had been doing fine on these expeditions and getting lots of needed exercise.
Onward! Lupe, Sidney and SPHP continued NW up USFS Road No. 424. The road turned N and climbed up to a minor pass. Staying on the road any further meant losing elevation, so everyone left it heading WNW. Snow was on the ground, but didn’t amount to much. Lupe was still gaining elevation. Before long, she was out of the trees and cresting a big, barren ridge. She had reached the E edge of Gillette Prairie.
Lupe reaches the E edge of Gillette Prairie, several square miles of rolling grasslands within the Black Hills. Photo looks W.Looking NW toward high country of the limestone plateau from the E edge of Gillette Prairie.This was Sidney’s 4th expedition with Lupe. He was supposed to be getting exercise so he could slim down, not finding disgusting things to eat in the forest, which he seemed to have a talent for. Photo looks W across Gillette Prairie.Loop on the barren ridge E of Gillette Prairie Photo looks E.
No definite plan existed for Expedition No. 70, though SPHP thought it might be fun for Lupe to go clear around Gillette Prairie. W of Gillette Prairie were high ridges, part of the limestone plateau country. The ridges were some of the highest ground in the Black Hills. From Green Mountain(7,167 ft.) Lupe ought to have some fabulous views.
Going directly across Gillette Prairie wasn’t an option. Nearly all the open ground was privately owned ranchland, but it was all surrounded by Black Hills National Forest.
The highest part of the ridge Lupe was on was off to the NW. That might be the best way to go. Lupe and Sidney kept climbing along the ridge. The high point was back in the forest, but Lupe had enough of a view to see South Slate Creek valley ahead. Lupe would have to lose elevation crossing it.
Losing some elevation wasn’t a big deal. Lupe and Sidney proceeded on down toward the valley. Lupe was half way down or more when she came to a fence. The fence ran N/S. A house could now be seen on the NW side of the valley. That meant the land beyond the fence was likely private property. Continuing NW apparently wasn’t an option, at least not here. Lupe would have to follow the fence N for a while.
No problem, except where was Sidney? He was missing again! Lupe never wanders off for more than a few minutes. She was here, but Sidney was nowhere in sight. Where had he disappeared to this time? What had he gotten into now? SPHP quickly scanned the forest for movement. Nothing. Oh, brother – not good!
Shortly before reaching the fence, Lupe had crossed a dirt road. Loop and SPHP went back to it. No Sidney in either direction. No Sidney in any direction. SPHP started calling for Sidney. Several minutes went by. Big Sid did not appear. Worrisome, very worrisome.
Suddenly finding Sidney was top priority. The neighbors would be unhappy if SPHP delivered a queasy Sidney home to puke on their carpets, but absolutely and justifiably outraged if SPHP managed to completely lose their precious pooch!
The snow on the ground was insufficient to track him, and his Carolina Dog buddy wasn’t any help. Lupe didn’t seem the least bit concerned where her friend Sidney was. Maybe she reasoned that Big Sid had enough reserves to easily last him a month in the wilderness, and he would be fine. That might be true enough, but “We’ll go back to Gillette Prairie in a month or two to find Sid when he’s all nice and slim and trim.” sure wasn’t going to fly back home.
Gah! What to do? Where had he gone? Back to the red carcass? Back to the G6? Following some new wretched scent off into the forest? SPHP stood on a stump looking for movement, calling and calling for Big Sid.
Finally Big Sid reappeared, trotting happily back along the road from the S without a care in the world. Sheesh! He hadn’t been gone all that long, but SPHP was very glad to see him. At least Sidney finally responded when called, but better keep a closer eye on him from now on. SPHP was used to letting Lupe roam at will without having to worry she would disappear like that. Lupe always kept close tabs on SPHP, not the other way around.
OK, back to business. Lupe, Sidney and SPHP went down to the fence again and began following it N. Ten minutes later, the fence turned NE. Following it NE way down South Slate Creek valley meant losing a lot more elevation. Sigh. Maybe it was best to simply go S instead? Perhaps Sidney had the right idea after all?
Fine, let’s try that. Everyone went S. It was a fiasco. The fence went S for a while, a little W of the barren ridge Lupe and Sid had been on before, but eventually turned SE instead of SW. SPHP finally checked the USFS map and found that Lupe would have to go clear back to the G6, and then even farther S to get around Gillette Prairie this way. Everything to the W was private property.
No way! The northern route was better, shorter.
Following the fence S along the E side of the private ranchlands in Gillette Prairie backfired. There was no way W across the private land, and the fence eventually turned SE instead of SW. When SPHP finally checked the map, it was clear that going N was the best way around. All this time, Lupe and Big Sid had the same slightly closer view of Green Mountain (L) on the far side of Gillette Prairie that they’d had before. Photo looks W.
Lupe and Big Sid wound up back on USFS Road No. 424 heading N up to the same minor pass again. This time they stayed on the road beyond the pass, losing elevation for a while before leaving the road to venture NNW. They climbed up to a different rocky high point overlooking South Slate Creek valley where they stopped for a Taste of the Wild and water break.
The big useless loop back to the S and E had consumed 1.5 hours of daylight. Completely circumnavigating Gillette Prairie wasn’t going to be possible now. Maybe Lupe could still get over to the high country on the NW side, though, before turning back?
Lupe and Sidney continued on. They went clear down to South Slate Creek, crossed it, and found USFS Road No. 424.1B, a muddy road which led N up a hill on the other side of the valley. At the top of the hill, another road came in from the W. Since they had to be N of Gillette Prairie by now, Lupe and Sid turned W and followed it.
When the new road turned SW, Lupe and Sidney left it wandering W on level ground through the forest for a while. Exploring was fun, but the terrain eventually forced them S back to the road. Soon afterward, the road intersected USFS Road No. 297, the main N/S gravel road through Gillette Prairie. A marker said the side road they had been following was No. 297.4D.
Lupe and Sidney were finally getting somewhere! Another, better road (unmarked, but likely USFS Road No. 656) was on the W side of No. 297. No fences were over here, so it appeared to be USFS land. Lupe liked exploring the forest, so everyone left No. 656, but continued paralleling it a little to the N.
After a lot of circling around, Lupe and Sidney finally started making progress toward Green Mountain.
For a little while, Lupe and Sidney were making great progress toward Green Mountain. It was too good to last. No. 656 turned S and led into private property. A fence, a house and horses were up ahead. To get around them, Lupe would have to continue W down a thickly forested slope. How far she would have to go and how much elevation she would have to lose, was unclear.
Once USFS Road No. 656 turned S and entered private property, the jig was up. To continue W off the road down into this thick forest before starting a big climb up Green Mountain was not an option. It was too late in the day for such an adventure. Photo looks NW. Hat Mountain(6,779 ft.) which Lupe and Sidney had climbed on Expedition No. 69 is in view in the distance.
Too much time had been lost earlier. It was too late in the day for a long off-road, off-trail adventure through thick forest leading to a long climb. Green Mountain wasn’t happening. Ahh, well. So it goes. No big views today. Better turn back.
Lupe and Sidney didn’t care. Going to Green Mountain or back to the G6 was all the same to them. They were still having a blast exploring. At least Big Sid hadn’t disappeared again.
Although this was only Big Sid’s 4th expedition with Lupe, he was getting the hang of how things worked. He really enjoyed the long days in the hills, although his owners reported back after each trek that he was totally exhausted and could barely move for days on end afterwards.Loop and Sidney, neighbors and exploring partners, shortly after starting back for the G6. They got along well on their joint expeditions. Sidney was a welcome addition to the pack!
For a while, the route back was a retracement of Lupe and Big Sid’s earlier travels. The dogs paralleled No. 656 through the forest back to No. 297, crossed it, and followed No. 297.4D to the junction with No. 424.1B. They then went S on muddy No. 424.1B down to South Slate Creek.
Going S down muddy USFS Road No. 424.1B into the South Slate Creek valley. Lupe and Sidney had taken their Taste of the Wild and water break earlier in the day up on top of the hill seen ahead. Photo looks S.Loop checking for squirrels on the way down to South Slate Creek.
Upon reaching South Slate Creek, Loop and Sid made a change in the route back, exploring a road leading E downstream. The sun was getting low now. It seemed best to stick to the roads, at least until they were closer to the G6.
Bare aspen trees in South Slate Creek valley.Down in South Slate Creek valley, the sun was already getting low.Sidney in the snow in South Slate Creek valley.Lupe liked the snow.
Lupe and Sidney didn’t have to go too far down South Slate Creek valley before reaching a junction with USFS Road No. 424 again. They were farther N on it than they’d been before and took it heading S.
No. 424 would have led all the way back to the G6, but upon reaching the minor pass for the 3rd time today, this time from the N, SPHP decided to climb High Point 6624, the hill to the E. The last rays of sunlight were still glowing faintly on the highest distant peaks when Lupe and Big Sid arrived on top 15 minutes later. Everything else was in shadow.
The views were beautiful – peaceful, serene. The Black Hills stretched N to the horizon. To the E, the prairies of western South Dakota were dimly perceived beyond the hills.
The remaining light faded quickly from even the highest hills. A slow, steep trek down an ugly S slope covered with deadfall timber and thistles ensued. Reaching No. 424 again far down in the valley took a while, but the G6 was now close by. It was nearly dark when Lupe and Sidney jumped in (4:53 PM, 30°F).
A warning light came on when SPHP started the G6. Yikes! Not one, but two tires had low air pressure! Fortunately, enough pressure remained in each to make it home. Sidney was returned to his owners. Somehow he managed not to puke up any noxious materials overnight.
Even though Lupe’s adventures East of Gillette Prairie hadn’t led to any great accomplishments, it had still been a lovely day spent exploring the hills. Both dogs had fun, and various tragedies had been avoided. Some adventures that’s as good as it gets. Best to have enough sense to appreciate it!
Day 21 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!
4:54 AM, 38°F, S bank of the Atigun River near the Dalton Highway bridge – Fog. Again. So what else was new? Despite fog, rain, and snow, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Lake Benchmark Mountain(5,000 ft.) yesterday. The day before that, she’d seen Galbraith lake and made it to the S edge of the North Slope beyond the Brooks Range, as far N as she had ever been in her life. So Loop had accomplished what had been planned here. Time to head S.
And yet the North Slope had been so enticing and mysterious! It would have been fun to go farther N, all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Deadhorse was only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean and only another 140 miles or so from here. If there had been easy access to the ocean, Lupe would have gone for sure, despite the weather. An Arctic Ocean adventure, even a short one, would be so incredible! However, all along the coast and for several miles inland, energy companies maintain tight security. Although it was possible to take a paid tour from Deadhorse to the Arctic Ocean, SPHP already knew Dingoes weren’t allowed.
When Lupe had been in the Brooks Range last year, she had met several people who had gone all the way to Deadhorse, or were on their way there. Those who had already been there had reported seeing arctic foxes, snowy owls, caribou, and even musk oxen out on the North Slope. No one said anything favorable about Deadhorse, though. It was just an ugly industrial complex, not even a town, with nothing to do there.
No, without access to the Arctic Ocean for the Carolina Dog, and this foggy weather, it was hard to justify going any farther N. Lupe had lots more adventures planned elsewhere in Alaska. Best get on with it. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was on her way S. The sky was completely overcast. Only a thin fog was present near ground level. Loop could see a mile or two to the base of the mountains. (5:15 AM)
Lupe along the Dalton Highway on her way S to Atigun Pass. Photo looks S.
The Atigun Pass area was darkly overcast. It was snowing, and the snow was beginning to stick. The mountains were white, where they could be seen through the fog. The Dalton Highway was slushy, but the G6 made it to the top of the pass. Lupe and SPHP got out to experience winter in August. (6:18 AM)
Loop at Atigun Pass in the Brooks Range for the second time in only a couple of days. This time she was heading S.
The weather was better S of Atigun Pass. Lupe stopped briefly at the Chandalar Shelf. The top of Table Mountain(6,314 ft.) was partly in view, and partly obscured by clouds. A fair amount of snow seemed to be present on what could be seen of the summit, but none existed below the final steep climb.
Heading down the S side of Atigun Pass. Photo looks SW.The weather was somewhat better S of Atigun Pass. The sky wasn’t as darkly overcast and it wasn’t foggy out. Photo looks S while still on the way down from the pass.
Lupe still hadn’t climbed Table Mountain. Table Mountain was the only peak on her original list of objectives along the Dalton Highway for this Dingo Vacation that she hadn’t climbed yet. She was here plenty early in the day. Still, the weather looked pretty iffy. Not foggy, but still lots of clouds hanging around.
As much fun as Table Mountain might have been, after yesterday’s adventure in cold rain, snow, and fog up on Lake Benchmark Mountain, SPHP decided maybe Lupe would be smart to skip it. Conditions were marginal. The weather wouldn’t have to deteriorate much before Loop wouldn’t be able to see a thing up there, even if she did make it to the top. Sad, but true. Onward!
Beyond the Chandalar Shelf, down in the Dietrich River valley, the weather continued to improve. Lupe even saw patches of blue sky. It must have been somewhat sunny here over the past couple of days. The Dalton Highway was much drier now, a vast improvement. The G6 whizzed along at a lively 45 mph!
Lupe reached the Coldfoot visitor center at 9:00 AM. A sign said it was closed until 11:00 AM. Hmm. SPHP drove over to Coldfoot camp on the other side of the Dalton Highway. The American Dingo had to wait in the G6 while SPHP disappeared into the restaurant.
The wait was longer than Lupe expected. Coldfoot camp had a breakfast buffet going on. All you can eat for only $14.95, an absolute bargain way up here N of the Arctic Circle! SPHP ate an enormous breakfast – eggs, pancakes, muffins, sausage, bacon, ham, water, root beer, and coffee. It was great! More than hour after SPHP went in, Lupe got to enjoy a few pieces of smuggled out bacon.
SPHP gassed up the G6, another bargain at only $4.599 per gallon, and Loop was on her way again on the Dalton Highway.
Whoa, SPHP! Wrong way!
Nope! We’re fine, Loopster.
No, we’re not! You turned R, we’re going back N again!
Yeppers!
I thought we were going S. Aren’t we leaving the Arctic?
We were, but now we’re not.
Why not? Where are we going then?
It’s Deadhorse or bust, Loopster! I changed my mind. We can’t just leave! You’re going to go as far N as we can get. We’ve come all this way clear up to the Brooks Range two years running now. Just doesn’t feel right not to go all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway. We may never return. This may be our last chance. Whether we can see anything or not out on the North Slope, and whether or not you can get to the Arctic Ocean, we’re just going to do it.
Oh, exciting! I hope we see some caribou and musk ox on the North Slope! A polar bear would be totally awesome! Can I ask a favor, though?
Sure, what is it?
Since we’re going to go by it again, can we stop at the Dietrich River and go on my 2016 Last Mile North adventure by the Alaska oil pipeline again? I love that place!
Of course! That’s a great idea. We’ll do it, but maybe just to the stream N of Dillon Mountain instead of all the way to its confluence with the Dietrich River. I drove so far S before changing my mind that Deadhorse is a long way off now, and who knows what the road will be like N of the Brooks Range? I’m hoping we can still get to Deadhorse tonight.
Lupe did get to go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again! Even though she didn’t get to go all the way to the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River, Loop had a blast! So easy, and so much fun!
Lupe at the stream that flows W from N of Dillon Mountain(4,820 ft.) (R). This was Lupe’s 3rd time now on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure, which has become a real favorite. Photo looks SE.
Then it was N again, on to the Chandalar Shelf. It was nearly 1:00 PM when Lupe arrived this time. Weather conditions hadn’t changed much since this morning. Once again SPHP deemed conditions too iffy, and now the hour too late, to seriously consider an ascent of Table Mountain.
Lupe returns to the Chandalar Shelf. She’s about 9 miles from Atigun Pass here. Photo looks ESE.Looking S across the Chandalar Shelf toward Table Mountain. The top of the mountain is completely hidden in the clouds. SPHP again concluded conditions weren’t right for an ascent.
When Lupe went over Atigun Pass again, the weather was better than it had been early this morning. It was no longer snowing. The slushy snow on the Dalton Highway had melted. There were even patches of blue sky. The mountains were visible now, instead of cloaked with fog. They looked dramatic – all clean, cold and white.
Heading N again on the way to Atigun Pass from the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks NE.Lupe near the Dalton Highway N of Atigun Pass again.The mountains of the Brooks Range looked clean, cold and white.
The better weather did not extend much beyond Atigun Pass. Soon the sky was totally overcast again. As Lupe followed the Atigun River N, the mountains were all hidden in clouds and fog.
Yesterday morning, Lupe had taken her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, a short hike not far from milepost 278 of the Dalton Highway out onto the tundra. At the time, it had seemed likely to be as far N as Lupe was ever going to be in her whole life. Due to the current sudden change of plans, however, that was already no longer true. Still, the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll had been a fun experience. Why not repeat it before continuing N and setting a new record? Lupe was totally in favor of the idea. (2:33 PM, 41°F)
This time, SPHP went 500 feet beyond the endpoint of Lupe’s first Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Lupe went even farther, racing 200 yards past SPHP out over the yellow tundra, sniffing and exploring as she went.
On her 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventure, Lupe went even farther than she did yesterday morning. Photo looks NW.
The mood of Lupe’s second Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was entirely different. Instead of being the expected end of all her explorations N, this time it was merely a preliminary launching point. Lupe wasn’t going to have to turn around having seen only the very S end of the North Slope. From here, Lupe was going all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Who knew what she might see along the way? It was all a grand mystery. A mystery about to be revealed.
This 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll felt different. This time it was not the expected end of Lupe’s explorations N, but a launching point. This time it was Deadhorse or bust! An exciting new adventure was about to begin! Who knew what Lupe might see out on Alaska’s North Slope? It was all a mystery about to be revealed! Photo looks WNW.
When Lupe returned to the G6 at 3:20 PM, the adventures of the North Slope Dingo were about to begin in earnest. If the G6 was tough enough, only 136 more miles on the Dalton Highway would bring the American Dingo to its far N end at milepost 414 in Deadhorse. Though Lupe would never get to Alaska’s N coast due to security restrictions, the Carolina Dog would be only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean!
And so it began. Leaving the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll behind, Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Dalton Highway. The road was fine for a number of miles. Lupe soon saw Toolik Lake off to the W. The highway made a sharp turn to the E here.
The weather deteriorated. Mist and light rain. The Dalton Highway was full of mud puddles. The road went up and down over a series of hills. The most worrisome stretches were where the road was soft and muddy, but that wasn’t its most common condition. Far more often it was rough and washboardy, with long stretches of jarring potholes.
The G6 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse. The only defense against the rough road was to drive very slowly. That was OK. It didn’t actually matter how long it took the Carolina Dog to get to Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway went NE for a while before turning N again. A dozen miles from the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, Lupe saw two seagulls!
4:14 PM, 110 to 115 miles from Deadhorse – The road has improved, no longer as rough and full of potholes as it had been going over the hills. To the W is a fairly high mountain, a lone one with its top lost in clouds and mist. It isn’t far from the Dalton Highway. If the weather was better, maybe Lupe could climb it? What can be seen of it certainly looks climbable. Remember this mountain for the return trip S!
Farther away off to the E and NE are lots more mountains, no doubt a continuation of the Brooks Range. However, there is no way to get over there. From the G6, Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between the highway and those mountains to the E.
Lupe on the Dalton Highway 110-115 miles from Deadhorse. The rain and mist have finally let up, but it’s still a low ceiling day. Photo looks NE.Oh, that looks like a fun, easy mountain to climb! No way to get over there, though. Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between here and there from the G6. Photo looks SE.
4:40 PM, 105 miles from Deadhorse – Since leaving the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway has only come to small streams.Up until now, that is. The large river Lupe caught glimpses of earlier is now only 300 to 600 feet E of the road. This must be the Sagavanirktok River. The Sag flows N all the way to Deadhorse, where it empties into the Beaufort Sea. It’s not yet a huge river. The Sagavanirktok is only slightly lower in elevation than the highway. The intervening ground appears quite swampy.
An industrial complex is on the W side of the highway, presumably some sort of pumping or maintenance station for the Alaska oil pipeline.
The Sagavanirktok River flows N near the Dalton Highway on its way to Deadhorse and the Beaufort Sea. Photo looks N.Although most of the North Slope appeared to be as yet almost totally unspoiled, every so often Lupe came to industrial areas like this one. They were almost certainly somehow connected with maintenance or operation of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SW.Looking back toward some of the foothills of the Brooks Range. Photo looks S.
5:05 PM – Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Alaska oil pipeline, and Dalton Highway from Oil Spill Hill. The road subsequently drops down into the river valley for several miles before climbing back out of it at Ice Cut.
From Oil Spill Hill, Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Dalton Highway, and Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks NE.Once the Sagavanirktok River gets close to the Dalton Highway, the river parallels the road the rest of the way to Deadhorse. However, it’s not always in view like this. Photo looks NE.Although Lupe watched for wildlife along the Sagavanirktok River for a long time, she never saw anything other than birds. That was disappointing. A musk ox would have been really cool! Photo looks NE.
5:15 PM, 90 miles to Deadhorse – Now that the Dalton Highway is up out of the Sagavanirktok River valley N of Ice Cut, the river is out of sight. The North Slope is a golden rolling featureless land stretching as far as one can see to low hills on the horizon. Larger hills are off to the E beyond the Alaska oil pipeline, but the Brooks Range is no longer in view. To the W there is nothing except a distant tower on a gentle rise.
The North Slope Dingo seems to have lost hope of seeing any wildlife in this barren land. She’s taken to snoozing.
The North Slope about 90 miles from Deadhorse. Golden boreal tundra stretches to low hills on the horizon. A lone tower (L) sits atop a gentle rise. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.A convoy approaches from the N.
80 miles from Deadhorse – Widely scattered patches of sunlight appear on the yellow tundra. A few patches of blue sky exist. The clouds are low, but apparently not that thick.
The North Slope Dingo is awake again, but still has seen no animals. The reason is becoming increasingly clear. For many miles, pickup trucks have often been in view parked along the access roads to the Alaska oil pipeline, especially near the Sagavanirktok River. People are sometimes seen nearby. They often wear at least some orange. Hunters! No wonder whatever wildlife exists has fled beyond vision. Sad.
76 miles from Deadhorse – Pavement! The first pavement since S of the Atigun River 75 miles ago. A nice 6 or 7 mile stretch, then it’s back to mud and gravel.
6:00 PM, 45°F, 67 miles from Deadhorse – The Sagavanirktok River, which has only occasionally been visible from the Dalton Highway, now curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs that has been in view for miles. The bluffs had been bathed in sunlight, but by the time the North Slope Dingo arrives for a photo, the light is past its best. Minutes later it is gone.
67 miles from Deadhorse, the Sagavanirktok River curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs. Photo looks NE.
6:20 PM, 62 miles from Deadhorse – The North Slope Dingo stops at a rare pullout about 0.25 mile N of the top of a big, very gently sloping hill. The river is nowhere in sight here, but a faint rainbow is off to the NE. The boreal tundra is a yellow patchwork of sunlight and fog. As clouds and fog drift by, patterns of light and shadow move W to E across a golden land sliding away to the N. Overhead a patch of blue sky sails by.
No traffic at all lately. Even the hunters don’t seem to be out and about.
62 miles from Deadhorse, the North Slope Dingo spied this faint rainbow. Photo looks ENE.The boreal tundra is a patchwork of sunlight and shadow as low clouds, fog, and bits of blue sky drift by. Photo looks NNE.Same view with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.
Almost immediately after leaving the faint rainbow and partially sunlit tundra behind, SPHP drives into rain and fog. A few minutes later, the Dalton Highway is paved again, but this time only for a couple of miles. Then it’s back to the usual mud and gravel. 4 or 5 miles later, a sign says road work next 51 miles, basically the rest of the way to Deadhorse. Get stopped by a flagman who says it’s a 20 minute wait.
The flagman has been working here every day since June 9th. $30/hr base pay and $45/hr overtime. Most days are 13 hours, and some are as many as 16. He has seen caribou, musk oxen, wolves, grizzly and polar bears, and lots of birds. Lupe will only have to follow the pilot car for 14 miles. The G6 is the only vehicle following the pilot car once it arrives. The pilot car races along the muddy road at 40 mph.
7:38 PM, 30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse – No traffic at all. The land is very flat. A 2 tiered bluff exists a mile to the E. To the W, nothing but a tiny hill in otherwise level terrain. 6 geese are flying S.
30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse the Dalton Highway is damp, but in good shape. The terrain is like a pancake. Photo looks N.A mile E of the highway is a 2 tiered bluff. Photo looks ENE.
8:17 PM, 42°F, 15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse – Saw the sun’s position through a weak spot in the clouds about 15 minutes ago. The sun won’t set for another 2.5 hours yet. For the past 10 miles, the Dalton Highway has been on a roadbed raised 15 feet above the surrounding terrain. The terrain is even flatter than before. Most of it appears to be part of a vast swamp, with occasional stretches of open water.
The Sagavanirktok River was briefly in view again lurking near the base of the 2 tier bluff. That bluff ran for miles along the same course before coming to an end. A single tier bluff then picked up again a mile ENE of the highway close to where the 2 tier bluff faded away. It also runs for miles. The bluff is now several miles from the Dalton Highway, hidden by fog.
The sky is uniformly gray. Visibility is only a mile or two. Lupe saw a couple of small buttes off to the W looking like ghosts on the horizon. They didn’t amount to much.
15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway is on a raised roadbed about 15 feet above the surrounding swampy terrain. A fairly large stretch of open water is seen beyond Loop. Photo looks NE.The Dalton Highway remains on a raised roadbed like this the rest of the way to Deadhorse. The North Slope Dingo was now assured of getting there! Photo looks N.
8:54 PM – Success! It’s like a dream. The North Slope Dingo has made it to the outskirts of Deadhorse. The end of the Dalton Highway is only a couple of miles farther. Lupe is what, maybe 8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay?
Deadhorse is as others have described it to SPHP – an industrial complex almost exclusively dedicated to the energy industry. Nothing resembling a town is in sight. Not a single house or residential street. No business district catering to the public.
The closest thing to a retail business is Deadhorse Camp, which Loop finds near the start of Deadhorse on the L. It’s a hotel of sorts, catering mostly to oilfield workers who essentially live there, but also to members of the public who manage to make it to the end of the Dalton Highway. It’s also where it’s possible to arrange for a shuttle bus tour to the Arctic Ocean.
Success! The North Slope Dingo arrives on the outskirts of Deadhorse. As expected, everything in sight has an industrial look to it. No sign of any traditional town at all.Deadhorse is 99% about the energy business and producing oil for the Alaska oil pipeline, which starts here.One unexpected thing about Deadhorse and the energy industry it serves was how spread out it all was. Wide areas of swamp and tundra separate numerous far flung industrial installations.Geese like to hang out around the Deadhorse Camp building.Oh, yeah! Here’s proof that the North Slope Dingo made it all the way to Deadhorse. Lupe stands outside the Deadhorse Camp building, located on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching Deadhorse. This is one of several “hotels” in Deadhorse. They all have a similar appearance. Some only accommodate oilfield workers.Even though SPHP had been told on the phone before Lupe ever left home that Dingoes aren’t allowed to take the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP was still planning on asking again for Lupe. Maybe it was still possible with enough in-person groveling or bribery?The Arctic Ocean shuttle! That was what Loop wanted to take. If she was refused, she would have to send SPHP as her personal representative.
Now that the North Slope Dingo was in Deadhorse, SPHP wasn’t certain exactly what to do. Looking for a gas station seemed like a good place to start. From Deadhorse Camp, SPHP drove farther into Deadhorse. After a couple of bends, the Dalton Highway finally ended at a T intersection. SPHP took a left and eventually stumbled upon the Prudhoe Bay Hotel near the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Deadhorse Airport.
Unused drilling rigs stand lined up across a lake in Deadhorse.Lupe arrives at the Prudhoe Bay Hotel.Alaska Airlines seems to be the only airline serving the Deadhorse airport. The terminal was closed when Loop arrived on a Sunday night.
While Lupe remained in the G6, SPHP went into the Prudhoe Bay Hotel seeking information. Signs in the entryway commanded that everyone entering wear disposable boot covers to help keep the place clean. Free, bright blue slip-on boot covers were available from a box. SPHP put a pair on, then went on in.
Long well lit hallways led off in 3 directions. Not a soul was in sight. The front desk turned out to be some distance down the hall straight ahead from the entrance. A clerk gave SPHP a free map of Deadhorse on a single sheet of paper, and circled where the 2 gas stations are located. After thanking the clerk, SPHP wandered the hallways.
A large map of Alaska’s N coast was framed under glass on one wall. It showed the locations of numerous energy installations, and the names of a great many geographical features. Lots of history was provided on who first explored the Alaskan coast and named various islands, points, peninsulas, etc. The map was extraordinarily interesting. SPHP read much of it, which took a while. Meanwhile, absolutely no one came or went in the silent hall.
Light was fading when SPHP returned to Loop, still waiting patiently in the G6. It was starting to get foggy. One of the gas stations was close by. It was a small unmanned facility. SPHP couldn’t even figure out how to work it. Splendid. Oh, well. Can figure it out tomorrow.
Loop and SPHP drove around Deadhorse a bit. There weren’t many roads, yet it seemed like a maze. In growing darkness and gloomy fog, the whole place was sort of eerie. Almost no traffic at all. Now and then a pickup truck or semi truck appeared, then vanished. No one was out and about. Deadhorse was sort of a ghost town, but then it was late on a Sunday night and energy prices were depressed. Maybe like Skagway, Deadhorse would be busier Monday morning?
Lupe and SPHP drove past clusters of energy related service businesses. They were all dark, except for security lights. Widely scattered in the distance were more clusters of buildings, some quite brightly lit. No houses, no businesses of any kind other than energy related companies and a few boxy “hotels”. Weird, kind of creepy, but cool, too.
Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP drove back to within sight of Deadhorse Camp. Several pickup trucks with campers were parked at big pullouts overlooking the Sagavanirktok River. Even a few tents were pitched out on the gravel. Apparently it was OK to stay here. Perfect! This would do nicely. SPHP parked the G6. Tomorrow Loopster would explore Deadhorse. SPHP hoped the North Slope Dingo could even get permission to see the Arctic Ocean, but she probably wouldn’t.
