2018 Yukon, Northwest Territiories & Alaska – Page 4 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks & Mount Baldy, Chugach State Park, Alaska (9-2-18)

Day 30 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

7:23 AM, Bottenintnin Lake – Although the sky was blue, mist hung over Bottenintnin Lake. Two white swans sailed among lily pads far from shore. Lupe sniffed eagerly through the forest nearby, but wasn’t having any luck. Still early. Apparently the squirrels were still in bed. SPHP worked on catching up the trip journal, but also made several forays into the forest with Loop. The were-puppy put in an appearance, and as the morning wore on, the forest rang with the shrill happy barking of the American Dingo. The chattering squirrels had finally gotten up!

Loop off to an early start at **Bottenintnin Lake** on the Kenai Peninsula.

The ferocious were-puppy appears to threaten SPHP!

Full of water lilies, **Bottenintnin Lake** is wide, but shallow. At one point, Lupe saw two white swans far from shore.

Lupe and SPHP had discovered this quiet spot along Bottenintnin Lake after Lupe’s adventure to the Skilak Lookout last year. On a sunny day like this one, Looper was going to find a mountain to climb somewhere before it was over, but Bottenintnin Lake had become a favorite place. SPHP was glad the Carolina Dog got to spend a big part of the morning here, but after a few happy hours, it was time to move on. (10:38 AM)

By 2:00 PM, Lupe was out of the Kenai Peninsula back in Anchorage. The only stop along the way had been for a look at Hope Point (3,709 ft.) across the Turnagain Arm, which Loop had climbed 6 days ago in rain and fog. Today Hope Point basked in sunshine beneath a cloudless sky.

*We should have stopped and climbed **Hope Point** again, SPHP! We would have had splendid views today!* **Hope Point** (Center) across the **Turnagain Arm**. Photo looks SW.

Nearly mid-afternoon. If Lupe was actually going to climb a mountain today, she had better get on with it. Fortunately, Chugach State Park had plenty of great peaks to choose from within striking distance. Couldn’t take on anything too long or difficult, though, with the day more than half shot already.

3:15 PM, Mount Baldy & Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks trailhead – At the end of Golden Eagle Drive in Eagle River, Looper already had an impressive view of the Knik Arm to the NW. This was the trailhead for Baldy, Mount Baldy, Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, and points beyond. SPHP was shocked to find cars and trucks lining both sides of the road. 50 or 60 vehicles up here, easy! More coming and going all the time. People and dogs all over the place. SPHP had a hard time finding a place to park the G6.

Before hitting the trail, Lupe paused for a look at the grand view of the Knik arm from right here at the trailhead. Far beyond the Knik Arm lay Mount Susitna (4,396 ft.), the Sleeping Lady.

*Mighty busy here at the Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks trailhead, but what a view of the **Knik Arm** already! And there’s **Mount Susitna**, the **Sleeping Lady**, beyond it!* Photo looks WNW.

No posted information was evident at the trailhead. Lupe had a choice of taking a gravel road that disappeared up to the R, or a level path on what appeared to be an abandoned road beyond a large red metal gate. Everyone else seemed to be taking the easy way on the path, so Looper did, too.

The busy gravel path was lined with tall bushes, and remained level or at a slight incline all the way to a small pond where the trail divided. Shortly before getting to this pond, SPHP spoke with a man who advised staying to the R here, going past an old wooden building, and taking a steeper route. This would avoid a long muddy stretch of trail coming down from Baldy (3,038 ft.).

The man had a 3 year old girl with him who had made it up Baldy under her own power, a gain of over 1,200 feet of elevation! They had climbed Baldy by a different steep route, which started with the gravel road that went off to the R back at the trailhead, and approaches Baldy from the W. They had just come down by a much easier route, which leaves Baldy heading E, and then makes a big sweeping curve around to the N before arriving at the pond.

Apparently the way the man and the 3 year old had gone was a popular loop route, but the big curve providing a much gentler rate of descent that they had just slogged down had been a sea of mud.

Sounded like good advice. SPHP thanked the man, congratulated the plucky 3 year old on her successful ascent of Baldy, and Lupe had gone on to the pond. After helping herself to a drink, the Carolina Dog took the recommended trail to the R, which soon did go past an old wooden building.

At the little pond a bit over 0.5 mile from the trailhead. Photo looks NE.

*We’ve hardly left the pond, and there’s the wooden building up ahead!* Photo looks SE.

Once past the wooden building, the trail turned toward Baldy (3,038 ft.) and started climbing. Before long, Lupe reached a T intersection where she went L. She hadn’t gone far, when a couple coming down said that this way was very muddy higher up, and they didn’t recommend it.

Heading toward Baldy after passing the old wooden building. Photo looks S.

So Lupe went back to the T to try the trail to the R. This branch soon started directly up Baldy’s steep N slope. The trail deteriorated rapidly as Lupe climbed above several people picking berries.

Heading up Baldy’s N slope. Photo looks S.

Looking back down from partway up Baldy. The pond and wooden building are both visible. Photo looks NNE.

The side of the mountain became very steep. The trail turned into such a faint path, that it was on the verge of disappearing entirely. Loopster gained hundreds of feet of elevation without any discernable change in the situation. Quite plainly, SPHP must not have understood the advice others had provided. This route couldn’t possibly be what they had been recommending. However, if a 3 year old girl could make it up Baldy on a steep route, so could Lupe and SPHP.

Resigned to climbing straight up the N slope clear to the summit, more than halfway up Baldy, SPHP was surprised to see Lupe standing next to a much better trail. This trail was traversing Baldy’s N slope, gradually gaining elevation as it went E. Little pink flags marked the route.

Nearly 2/3 of the way up Baldy, Lupe comes to a much better trail traversing the N slope. **Knik Arm** in the distance. **Mount Susitna** (R). Photo looks WSW.

What a gift! An easier way up. Loopster followed the trail E. She could already see her primary peakbagging goal for the day, the 3-pronged summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks (4,449 ft.), in the distance.

**Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (Center) and **Roundtop** (L) on the horizon. Photo looks E.

Following the curvature of the mountain, the trail turned SE. This trail was brand new! So new, that it was still under construction. Loopster started seeing chunks of tundra that had been freshly torn up and set aside. After going only a short distance, she reached an abrupt end. Pink flags continued along the slope marking the route the unfinished trail would eventually take.

At the end of the unfinished trail. Pink flags mark the future route. Photo looks SE.

So that was that! Lupe resumed going straight up the slope. Hundreds of feet higher, the terrain finally started leveling out. Lupe eventually arrived at the W end of Baldy’s summit ridge. From here she could see the town of Eagle River, and the Knik Arm all the way to Cook Inlet.

At the **W end of Baldy’s summit ridge**. **Cook Inlet** is in the distance on the L, the **Knik Arm** on the R. The town of Eagle River is spread out below. Photo looks SW.

The trailhead Lupe started out from is the bare spot down in the trees beyond her head. Eagle River, the Glenn Highway, and Knik Arm are all in sight. Photo looks W.

Baldy (3,038 ft.) was a super popular destination! A dozen people were milling around enjoying the views. A rock formation where the Dowling survey benchmark was shown on the topo map was clearly the highest spot at the W end. So many people were coming and going, that Lupe had to wait in line for a turn on top.

Loop gets a turn on the high point at the **W end of Baldy**. Photo looks E.

**Roundtop** (L) and **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (R) from the W end of Baldy.

Everyone hung around the scenic W high point, as if it were Baldy’s true summit. However, a considerably smaller rock formation toward the E end of the summit ridge appeared to be slightly higher. No one else was paying any attention to this less notable high point, so Lupe didn’t have to wait for a turn here.

Having visited both the E and W high points, the American Dingo could now claim a successful ascent of Baldy. However, according to the topo map, she hadn’t made it to the summit of Mount Baldy (3,281 ft.) yet, a rounded hill almost a mile farther ESE toward Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks along a vast ridge.

The distinction between Baldy and Mount Baldy is a bit confusing. SPHP would have bet money that all these people up at Baldy would have said they’d climbed Mount Baldy. Hardly mattered. Mount Baldy is almost 250 feet higher, but since Baldy is at the far W end of the same giant ridge, the views were almost certainly better from here. No real reason to go to Mount Baldy unless one is continuing on to Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, which Lupe was.

**Mount Baldy** (L) is barely distinguishable as a hill toward the end of the ridge leading to **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (L). Photo looks ESE from **Baldy’s true summit**.

From the E end of Baldy, Lupe followed a trail ENE losing a fair amount of elevation. This was the popular route down Baldy that eventually curves N through the muddy stretch leading to the pond. However, as soon as she could, Loop left the trail and headed for Mount Baldy.

Since it was already getting late to consider climbing Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, no one else was going this way. Lupe had the whole giant ridge to explore pretty much to herself.

**Baldy** (at the end of the ridge) from **High Point 3058** (932 m) on the way to Mount Baldy. Photo looks WNW.

**Baldy** (Center) from **Mount Baldy**. Photo looks WNW.

**Roundtop** (L) and **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (R) from the E end of **Mount Baldy**. Photo looks E.

After briefly visiting High Point 3058 and Mount Baldy (3,281 ft.), Lupe headed for Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. A dirt road took her to the base of the long slope leading up to the jagged rock formations along the top of a rugged ridgeline. A trail that sometimes climbed aggressively, and other times switchbacked higher, provided a route up.

On the way up the long slope. Photo looks ESE.

The **Knik Arm** beyond a flat part of the huge ridge that extends N. Photo looks NW.

The SE side of the ridgeline that forms Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks is cliffy, so all the unmaintained trails and routes Lupe followed always stayed on the NW side of the mountain. The ridgeline itself was too rugged for any trail to stay right on top. Once Loop got up to the rock formations, she sometimes had views to the SE through gaps between them.

Near the first of the big rock formations Lupe came to upon reaching the ridgeline. Photo looks SE.

Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks (4,449 ft.) has three distinct high points. Having long had a clear view of the mountain from a distance, it was plainly evident that the first one Loop was coming to was definitely the lowest. The trail passed fairly close to the first high point, but Lupe did not leave the trail to visit it. With the sun starting to sink noticeably, it was more important to push on to the true summit.

Approaching the first, and lowest, of 3 distinct high points on **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**. Although Lupe passed near it, she did not go to the top. Photo looks ENE.

Despite having had a great look at the mountain, which of the other two high points was the true summit was not entirely clear. SPHP was of the opinion that the most distant high point was slightly higher, but that could have been an illusion.

Getting closer to **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**‘ last two high points. **Roundtop** is on the L. The third high point SPHP thought was the **true summit** is at Center, The competing **middle high point**, which must be nearly the same elevation, is at R. Photo looks NE.

Past the first high point approaching the middle one (L). Photo looks E.

**Blacktail’s middle summit** (L), **Vista Peak (4,987 ft.)** (Center), and **Mile High Peak (5,331 ft.)** (R). Photo looks E.

The **Little Peters Creek drainage**. Photo looks NNW.

**Mount Magnificent (4,272 ft.)** in the foreground. Photo looks SE with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Looking back down the **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks ridgeline** before reaching the middle high point. Two people are standing on the **first high point** (R). Photo looks SW.

So far everything had been easy, but as Lupe approached the middle high point, that began to change. The trail she was following was braided, and amounted to little more than a goat path. The NW side of the mountain became increasingly steep. Switching over to the SE side where there were now gigantic cliffs was out of the question.

Lupe got very high, quite close to the middle high point, but she skipped this one, too, although reaching it didn’t appear difficult. The situation deteriorated as the Carolina Dog tried to continue on to the last high point. The goat paths along the steep slopes were very narrow, but the worst part was trying to get beyond long spines of rock that went straight down the mountainside. Many others had done it, and Lupe could, too, but the rocks were worn so smooth that SPHP didn’t trust the hand or foot holds.

On the way around the middle high point. The third and final high point is on the L. Photo looks NE.

The **true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks** (as far as SPHP could tell) is on the L. One of the most challenging rock spines to get past extends far down to the L from the rock formation on the R. Photo looks NE.

The problem was ultimately solved by making a considerable down climb to reach a more favorable spot to get around the biggest of the spines. Once that had been accomplished, Lupe climbed back up to the ridgeline. She reached a good-sized area of fairly level ground at a big gap in the rock formations that provided grand views to the SE.

Beyond the last of the spines of rock that ran down the NW side of the mountain. Loop is on the way back up to the big gap along the ridgeline at R. Photo looks NE.

At the big gap between the second and third high points. **Mount Magnificent** (Center) in the foreground. Photo looks SE.

Similar view with help from the telephoto lens.

The rest was easy again. From the gap, Lupe followed a path across a slope that wasn’t nearly as steep as those near the middle high point. The path led up to a ridge running NW from the third high point. A modest cairn sat right where Loop gained the NW ridge. This ridge was plenty wide, and provided an excellent direct ramp to the summit.

Cairn where Lupe reached the third high point’s NW ridge. Photo looks NW.

On the way up the NW ridge to the third high point. Photo looks SE.

A small conical hill, the uppermost portion of which was nearly all rock, capped the third high point at the NE end of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. A single tall boulder was the absolute high point. Lupe leapt up on top. She had done it! The American Dingo stood astride the true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks (4,449 ft.)!

On the third high point at the NE end of the mountain, the **true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**. Photo looks W.

Lupe on the **true summit**. The middle high point, which seemed very nearly as high, is on the R. Photo looks SSW.

An intrepid Carolina Dog atop **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**.

From the third high point, the middle high point did look slightly lower. Admittedly, it was a close call. SPHP wasn’t 100% certain Lupe was at the true summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, but almost.

The views, of course, were spectacular! Lupe could see all the way down the Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks ridgeline to the middle and first high points, and clear on down to Baldy, which looked tiny from here. To the W was the Knik Arm. To the SW, Anchorage, Cook Inlet, and very far away, Redoubt Volcano (10,197 ft.) and Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.).

In other directions, Lupe gazed upon a sea of peaks in Chugach State Park. The peaks nearby looked barren and dry. Farther away, especially toward the SE, were considerably higher mountains, some with snow or glaciers on them. If Lupe had gotten an early start here this morning, it looked like it would have been fun and relatively easy to continue along the ridgelines to either Roundtop (4,787 ft.) or Vista Peak (4,987 ft.).

If Lupe had gotten a much earlier start, it would have been easy to follow the ridgelines to **Roundtop** (R). Photo looks NE.

**Roundtop** (R) from Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. Photo looks NNE.

**Vista Peak** (R) was farther away than Roundtop, but looked like a fun ridge walk, too. **Mile High Peak** (far R). Photo looks E.

Looking back down the **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks ridgeline**. The **middle high point** (L) and lower first high point (R) are both in view. Photo looks SW.

**Middle summit** (L), **first summit** (Center), and **Mount Baldy** (far R). Photo looks SW.

Higher peaks to the SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Unfortunately, Lupe didn’t have time to explore farther along the ridges connecting to other mountains. She had a gorgeous evening, but it was evening. The sun was getting close to the horizon. Loop couldn’t even stay at the summit of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks for too long before she would have to start back.

On the return, Lupe did not down climb to get past the rock spines near the middle high point. She stayed higher this time, and managed to find a slightly less daunting and troublesome way through. Loop again found herself near the top of the middle high point. This time, since SPHP couldn’t entirely rule out the possibility that the middle high point was actually the true summit, she did climb to the top.

In truth, from here, the middle summit did look just as high as the third high point had been.

On **Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks’ middle high point**. The **third summit** is hard to see in front of **Roundtop** (L), since it blends in so well from this perspective. Photo looks NE.

The top of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks’ middle summit was a very small area. With the sun only half an hour from setting now, Lupe could only stay a few minutes. SPHP congratulated her on making it to the top of both of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rock’s highest points. The Carolina Dog seemed quite pleased by the praise and attention.

At the **middle high point**. **Mount Magnificent** (Center) in the foreground.

The sun set before Lupe made it down off Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks, but for a while she enjoyed the long twilight of the far N. Although she again passed close to Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks’ first high point, Loop never did go to the top. She did revisit Mount Baldy at dusk. By the time she made it to Baldy, the city lights of Eagle River and Anchorage glittered beneath the deep black of space.

Sunset beyond the **Knik Arm** during the descent.

Heading down to **Mount Baldy** (lower L) and **Baldy** (L of Center).

**Anchorage** and **Cook Inlet**. **Redoubt Volcano** (Center) and **Iliamna Volcano** (far L). Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Eagle River (foreground) and Anchorage (background) from Baldy. Photo looks SW.

Spooky Dingo of the Night back on Baldy.

The descent from Baldy took a long time. With only the aide of a weak flashlight, SPHP slowly, uncertainly, tried to navigate the very steep slope that the trail from the W came up. Some places the trail was so braided, it seemed like the whole mountain was trail. Other spots, Lupe had to help search for signs of any trail at all. Sometimes the flashlight revealed only a dark abyss ahead, mandating a course correction.

After losing what seemed like a lot of elevation, Lupe finally came to some switchbacks on a fairly good path. It felt like the worst must be over. However, the switchbacks suddenly ended at a drop off. After a tricky down climb, Lupe found the switchbacks again, but finding and losing the switchbacks recurred with distressing frequency.

Near the end, the slope diminished. The trail became more consistent. Ahead was a tower with red lights that SPHP suspected the gravel road from the trailhead must go to. This proved to be the case. Lupe came to the road before getting to the tower, and was soon back at the trailhead.

Middle of the night. Time for a quick bite, and a long snooze. Perhaps to dream again of those glorious fleeting moments in the blue Alaskan sky atop the soaring pinnacle of Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks. (12:10 AM, 41°F)

**Blacktail Ptarmigan Rocks**, Chugach State Park, Alaska 9-2-18

Trailhead Directions: From the curve at the NE corner of Eagle River Loop Road in the town of Eagle River, take Skyline Road (a R turn, if heading N). Skyline Road winds with many curves up through a residential neighborhood eventually leading into or becoming Golden Eagle Drive. The trailhead is at the end of Golden Eagle Drive.

Links:

Next Adventure Prior Adventure

Chugach State Park Map

Chugach State Park Brochure

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Poot Peak, Kachemak Bay State Park, Alaska (9-1-18)

Day 29 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon, Northwest Territories & Alaska!

7:40 AM, Homer Spit – Ten minutes after Mako’s Water Taxi opened, Lupe sauntered in. The American Dingo had such a good time on the Alpine Ridge trail going to see the Grewingk Glacier yesterday, that SPHP wanted to find out if there was any chance she might be able to return to Kachemak Bay State Park for an attempt on Poot Peak (2,585 ft.)?

Absolutely! Lupe can depart Homer Spit aboard the Orca at 8:00 AM, with a 4:30 PM pickup at Halibut Cove Lagoon. $85.70 total round trip for SPHP, all fees and taxes included, and Dingoes ride free.

Wow! Sounded great! Without the slightest hesitation, or even giving it a moment’s thought, SPHP agreed. After forking over a credit card for payment, Lupe was all set. Half an hour later, the Carolina Dog was aboard the Orca racing across Kachemak Bay toward Halibut Cove for the second day in a row.

Lupe and SPHP stayed up front sitting on a tote box outside the skipper’s cabin. The sky was clearer, and the wind greatly diminished from the conditions prevailing yesterday. The voyage aboard the Orca was much smoother than the bumpy, sometimes jarring, ride over choppy seas aboard the Smokey Bay the day before. Colder out today, though. SPHP’s hands were soon freezing hanging onto the metal railing. Should have worn gloves!

The only other passengers, a couple from Illinois, stayed in the heated cabin. Once across Kachemak Bay, the Orca dropped them off at the Glacier Spit trailhead. Lupe was next! Poot Peak (2,585 ft.) was in sight as the Orca entered Halibut Cove Lagoon on the way to the big dock at the S end near the ranger station.

*So that’s **Poot Peak** there on the R? Looks kind of steep, doesn’t it, SPHP?* Aboard the Orca in **Halibut Cove Lagoon**. Photo looks S.

The skipper pointed out sea otters playing in the lagoon. The little wakes they made in the water gave away their positions, but they were too far from the Orca to get a good look at them. A few minutes later, Lupe was disembarking at the huge dock. As soon as Lupe and SPHP were safely off, the Orca turned and sped away.

At the huge dock at the S end of Halibut Cove Lagoon.

The Orca departs. Photo looks N across **Halibut Cove Lagoon**.

8:40 AM, Halibut Cove Lagoon dock – As the Orca receded, Lupe and SPHP turned and went up the metal ramp leading away from the dock to the ranger station. An impressive sign welcomed Lupe to Kachemak Bay State Park, but the ranger station was closed. SPHP filled in the registry, and took a look at the posted map of the trail system.

Cool sign, don’t ya think, Loop? …… Yes, indeed, SPHP! Kind of reminds me of the sign at that other park. What was it again? Jurassic Park, I think. Be sure to say something if you see any T Rexes or Velociraptors lurking about!

Trail system map posted at the ranger station.

Past the ranger station, a long stairway led down to a small clearing. Two big planks crossed a tiny stream, beyond which a trail disappeared up into the forest. Lupe followed this trail as it snaked higher through a thick jungle of ferns and bushes beneath a canopy of tall trees.

Crossing the little stream beyond the ranger station.

Five minutes out, suddenly a disturbance occurred in the forest not far from the trail. Lupe started running ahead to investigate, but SPHP called her back. Branches cracked, and bushes shook only 25 feet away, but nothing could be seen of the cause. A moose? More likely a bear.

Whatever it was, was so close to the trail that trying to get past it might be asking for trouble. As the cracking and shaking drew nearer, Lupe and SPHP backed quietly away. After several short retreats, Loopster couldn’t take it any more. The Carolina Dog whimpered softly.

Immediately a great commotion erupted. Violent cracking and shaking! Something big was fleeing! Lupe was tremendously excited, but didn’t budge. Ten seconds, and the jungle fell silent again. Carefully making sure the coast was clear, Lupe resumed her explorations along the trail.

*Probably a T Rex making itself scarce. They know Dingoes rule the earth these days!*

A junction was just ahead. Lupe could go R to the official Halibut Cove Lagoon trailhead, which was different from, and a bit W of, the ranger station trailhead. The other option, and correct choice, was L on the China Poot Lake trail.

After following the China Poot Lake trail S for half an hour, Lupe came to a high point where a spur trail on the R went steeply down to the shore of First Lake. Why not? Would only take a few minutes. Lupe found lily pads floating on the still waters of a sheltered cove, but the spur trail didn’t go any farther.

By now, Lupe had gained 500 feet of elevation since leaving Halibut Cove Lagoon. The China Poot Lake trail leveled out as it crossed a broad ridge heading SSE. Nothing could be seen except the surrounding jungle. The trail was easy to follow, although tree roots made the pathway uneven.

Deep in the green jungle along the China Poot Lake trail.

Once Lupe made it across the broad ridge, the trail began switchbacking down a slope before turning E. For the first time since she had been aboard the Orca, Loopster started catching glimpses of Poot Peak. The mountain was still surprisingly far away.

**Poot Peak** from the China Poot Lake trail. Photo looks SSE.

**Poot Peak** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks SSE.

After going E for a bit, the trail turned SE. Lupe soon came to a junction with the Moose Valley trail. The China Poot Lake trail turned SW (R) here, while the Moose Valley trail continued SE.

At the intersection with the Moose Valley trail.

Loopster stuck with the China Poot Lake trail. She caught glimpses of Two Loon Lake off to the SE (L), before coming to several side trails, all of which went W (R). Ignoring the side trails, Loop crossed a bridge over a rushing stream, and then a second bridge over a dry wash.

Sign at an intersection with the Coalition Loop trail.

At the junction with a short spur trail to the public use cabin on China Poot Lake.

When Lupe reached it, China Poot Lake was a bit of a disappointment. The American Dingo was heading S on the China Poot Lake trail only a few feet from the E shore, but trees and bushes still managed to prevent her from getting any clear views of the lake. Part of this section of the trail was slow going, too. Full of exposed roots, the trail made a series of small steep climbs and descents on an embankment crowding the shore.

A rare glimpse of China Poot Lake, even though the trail went right by it. Photo looks W.

11:10 AM – Shortly after the trail left China Poot Lake heading SE, Lupe arrived at a junction with the Poot Peak North trail. Checking the time, SPHP’s heart fell as a sudden realization began to sink in. The American Dingo’s attempt on Poot Peak (2,585 ft.) was almost certainly doomed to failure!

2.5 hours had already gone by. The Poot Peak North trail was supposed to take 3 to 4 hours round trip, plus an additional 1 to 2 hours on the Summit spur to reach the top of the mountain. That totaled 4 to 6 hours to summit and get back here, plus another 2.5 hours to return to Halibut Cove Lagoon. If those figures were right, Lupe wouldn’t be back ready for pickup until 6.5 to 8.5 hours from now, or 5:40 PM to 7:40 PM.

Scheduled pickup was 4:30 PM. The gal at Mako’s had said they might run 15 minutes late, but Loop would still be at least an hour later than that. Only yesterday Lupe had run out of time to complete all that she’d hoped to do up on the Alpine Ridge trail, and this situation was far worse. How could SPHP have let this happen? Why hadn’t the slightest attention been paid to how long it would take simply to get to Poot Peak before booking the water taxi?

Not a single valid excuse. Lupe wasn’t going to make up Poot Peak, and it was all SPHP’s fault.

At the start of the Poot Peak North trail.

Oh, Loopster! I’m so sorry!

Why, what’s wrong, SPHP?

I’m not used to these timed events. If I’d given it even 30 seconds thought I would have insisted on a pickup time 2 or 3 hours later, or just told Mako’s to forget it. I was so excited that a water taxi was available to get us over here right away this morning, that I didn’t stop to consider how long this was going to take. We can’t make it to Poot Peak. It’s already too late in the day. You’ve come all this way, but we’ll be forced to retreat before you stand any chance of reaching the summit.

So this is it? Do we have to turn around now?

No, not yet. We can probably go another hour and 20 minutes, and that’s pushing it. We will have only 3.5 hours to get back. I can’t believe it! Looks like we are going to spend all day running around in the jungle without ever seeing anything.

Oh, we still might see a T Rex. That would be something!

I’ll grant you that.

Well, enough of this standing around, SPHP! As the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood, I have a reputation at stake here, even if you don’t. Faced with defeat, I can’t slink back tail between my legs. Let’s see how far we can get, unless you have a brighter idea.

SPHP didn’t, which was no great surprise. So once again, a race was on! The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood took off leading the way along the Poot Peak North trail. Lupe had only gained 200 feet of net elevation so far, with another 2400 feet to go to get to the summit of Poot Peak. 5 hours and 20 minutes from right now, she was supposed to be back at Halibut Cove Lagoon.

An initial up and down section wasn’t that bad, but then the Poot Peak North trail started climbing steeply. Wet grass and bushes overhung the unmaintained route, although whether due to rain last night or a heavy dew was unclear. In practically no time, Lupe was drenched, and SPHP was soaked nearly to the waist. The trail seemed to be braided in some places. At times, SPHP wasn’t at all certain Loop was on the main route.

The Carolina Dog came to a long stretch where a series of chutes of slick mud and smooth rocks made it difficult for SPHP climb any higher. The chutes were separated by less troublesome sections, and often were only 10 or 12 feet high, but were still problematic. Yesterday Lupe had come to 4 ropes at treacherous spots on the Alpine Ridge trail. The Poot Peak North trail could have used 20 such ropes, but had none. However, by clinging to whatever was available, SPHP managed to creep up or bypass each chute without incident, though doing so chewed up time, and SPHP dreaded the return descent.

Beyond the last of the chutes, the trail finally leveled out to some extent, but was so overgrown that SPHP often wasn’t even able to see it. Each step forward was an act of faith. Meanwhile, however, the forest was starting to thin out. Parts of Poot Peak could sometimes be seen rising sharply hundreds of feet above.

At last, Lupe reached a meadow of tall grass, where the trail was almost flat. One more push higher up a steep scree slope beyond the meadow, and the American Dingo came to a junction. She had made it to the end of the Poot Peak North trail where it met up with the Poot Peak South trail. Loopster was only 0.25 mile N of Poot Peak (2,585 ft.)!

In the meadow before the last push up to the junction with the Poot Peak South trail. Photo looks SW.

On the L is part of **Poot Peak’s 2100 foot N ridge**. Part of the summit ridge is seen on the R. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe reaches the junction of the Poot Peak North & South trails where the spur route to the summit begins.

12:50 PM, Junction of the Poot Peak trails & Summit Route – The bad news was that only 1.1 miles on the Poot Peak North trail had taken SPHP an hour and 40 minutes. Only 10 minutes until it was time to turn around. This junction of the Poot Peak North and South trails was at a mere 1,800 feet of elevation. The glittering, glorious, soaring summit of Poot Peak loomed another 800 feet higher.

Sigh. Simply impossible!

At least this junction was above the forest on open ground. For the first time since entering the jungle, Lupe had some beautiful distant views. Back to the NW, parts of Halibut Cove Lagoon, China Poot Lake, Two Loon Lake and Kachemak Bay were all in sight. To the SE, Lupe could see the Wosnesenski Glacier amid high peaks and smaller snowfields.

At the junction of the Poot Peak North & South trails. Part of **China Poot Lake** is seen beyond Lupe. **Two Loon Lake** is near the sign. **Halibut Cove Lagoon** is on the R. **Kachemak Bay** is in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Looking SE toward the **Wosnesenski Glacier** (slightly L of Center).

Another look with help from the telephoto lens. **Wosnesenski Glacier** on the L.

Loop and SPHP took a short break while enjoying these first real views of the day. Lupe was far less despondent than SPHP. She’d been having a whale of a good time finding squirrels along the North Poot Peak trail while SPHP struggled with the slippery chutes.

To the S, the Summit spur trail wound up a very steep slope of bushes and scree. No way. 1:00 PM. Time to start back. 4 hours and 20 minutes elapsed since drop-off. Only 3.5 hours until pickup. Yet SPHP hesitated. Surely it would be possible to quicken the pace going back? Going down the Poot Peak North trail would be faster than going up, and Lupe hadn’t been in any big rush on the China Poot Lake trail on the way here. SPHP hadn’t realized how short of time she’d been from the very beginning.

800 feet higher, the Poot Peak summit was out of the question. In fact, there had been a good chance all along that Looper might never reach the top of the mountain. Rock climbing training was recommended for anyone attempting to go beyond a 2,100 foot ridge. SPHP had none. So it had always been likely that prudence would force SPHP to face defeat at some point, anyway.

Yet that 2,100 foot ridge, the recommended turnaround point for most people, was only 300 feet higher than where Lupe was right now. She could see it. The ridge was right there! An extra 300 feet might make a huge difference in the views. Not the same as pushing on to the summit by any means, but still a substantial improvement and worthy goal.

**Poot Peak summit** (L). **2,100 foot N ridge** recommended as the turnaround point for those without formal rock climbing training (R). Photo looks SW.

Really no time for this, but maybe Mako actually would run a bit late? If not, perhaps they would wait at least a little while, even if Lupe wasn’t back at the dock ready and waiting right on the dot?

So are we doing this or not, SPHP?

Yeah. Puppy, ho! Onward!

Going up the steep slope, SPHP clung to bushes. Loose scree clattered down, while Lupe easily powered higher. Above the bushes, SPHP had nothing much to hang on to, but the slope soon diminished. This wasn’t any worse than the Poot Peak North trail had been. Before long, the American Dingo was there!

The 2,100 foot N ridge was roomy. Brilliant, beautiful tundra flourished where Loop came up from the E. Rocky high points extended out toward the N. This was so worth it! An Alaskan wilderness panorama extended from the ocean at Kachemak Bay all the way around past the low jungle to snow-clad mountains and the Wosnesenski Glacier.

Only to the S were views blocked by a steep conical scree slope leading to the base of a ragged cap of solid rock atop Poot Peak’s summit ridge. Another 500 feet up! Didn’t look that far, but that capstone didn’t look that easy, either. Hard to tell from here how difficult it might really be.

No time to think about that. This was the end. A short stay, and Lupe would have to be on her way. Just look, look, look – drinking it all in!

The Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood on Poot Peak’s 2,100 foot N ridge. Photo looks SE.

The rocky **N end of the 2,100 foot ridge**. Photo looks NE.

Looking SSW toward the **summit of Poot Peak** (L). No doubt Lupe could have gotten a lot closer to the top of the mountain, but whether SPHP would have been capable of summiting remains forever in doubt.

Looper on the Summit spur trail as it reaches the 2,100 foot ridge. Photo Looks NW.

The tundra was gorgeous! All Christmasy red and green.

**Wosnesenski Glacie**r (L). Photo looks SE.

**Cook Inlet** (L), **Home Spit** (Center), and **Kachemak Bay** (R). Part of **China Poot Lake** is close by on the R. Photo looks NW.

**China Poot Lake** (L), **Two Loon Lake** (closest on R), and **Halibut Cove Lagoon** (distant R). **Kachemak Bay** in the distance. Photo looks NW.

**China Poot Lake** with help from the telephoto lens.

The **Homer Spit** (Center) protruding into **Kachemak Bay** during low tide. Photo looks NW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

1:45 PM, Poot Peak’s 2,100 foot N ridge – Egads! A paltry 2.75 hours to pick up time at Halibut Cove Lagoon. 20 glorious, precious minutes on the 2,100 foot ridge had shot by. A reluctant farewell, Poot Peak! Lupe and SPHP started down the Summit spur trail. The race was on again.

Well, sort of on. Lupe could run around practically anywhere, but SPHP had to exercise caution on the steep scree slope back to the Poot Peak North trail, and then again at the many treacherous, slick chutes going down that trail. It wasn’t until Lupe was past all the chutes to the up and down portion of the Poot Peak North trail that SPHP could consistently move at speed.

Suddenly, there was another cracking of branches and swaying of bushes off in the jungle to the L (SW). Again nothing was seen. Whatever the source, it was fleeing, and hadn’t been that close to the trail to begin with. Lupe and SPHP paid little attention, hastening on by.

3:25 PM, China Poot Lake trail – Going down the Poot Peak North trail hadn’t been as bad as SPHP feared, but had once again chewed up a ton of time, due to the caution required. Only an hour and 5 minutes left, and more than 3 miles to go! Hurry, hurry!

Progress was encouragingly faster on the China Poot Lake trail, until 15 minutes after leaving the Poot Peak North trail behind, Lupe suddenly dashed ahead intensely excited. Movement in the forest to the R of the trail! Very close by! Both Lupe and SPHP saw it. A black bear, only 20 feet away!

Remaining on the trail, the American Dingo barked aggressively. SPHP called her back. Loop came instantly, and was quiet. No great cracking of branches and swaying of bushes this time around. This bear did not flee. Retreating only a few feet deeper into the shady forest, the bear turned and peered back at Lupe and SPHP.

Only the bear’s black ears (Center) are visible, as it peers back from the jungle.

Was the bear merely curious? Feeling aggressive? Hungry? For 20 long seconds the staring went on both ways, a silent, motionless contest.

The bear decided to move off, but slowly, pausing every few seconds to check on Lupe. It was enough. Quietly, stealthily, Lupe and SPHP slunk away. Got by the bear! Hit it! The race against time resumed.

Cooling off in **Moose Creek** after the bear stare down.

Even though I never made it to the summit, this Poot Peak adventure has been quite a day, don’t you think? Between the water taxi ride, jungle exploration, scaredy-cat T Rexes, squirrels, views from the the 2,100 foot ridge, and now bears, its been pretty exciting!

4:49 PM, Halibut Cove Lagoon – The ranger station was still closed as Lupe and SPHP rushed by. The dock was empty and quiet. 19 minutes late. No water taxi. No one at all. Completely relaxed, having a fun, mellow time, a lone sea otter played lazily in the incredibly blue, cold waters of Halibut Cove Lagoon.

A sea otter enjoys a sunny afternoon in **Halibut Cove Lagoon**.

While the sea otter relaxed, Lupe finally could, too.

For the second day in a row, nothing to do at the end of a failed race against time, but wait. No telling for how long, but the dock at Halibut Cove Lagoon was an awesome place to be. Lupe relaxed watching the sea otter paddle and play. A giant sea squirrel was just about the strangest thing ever!

Within 10 minutes, the drone of an engine could be heard. A boat was heading this way! The Orca? No. As the craft drew near, SPHP could see it was the considerably smaller Blue Too. The Blue Too pulled up alongside the dock, and a couple of passengers disembarked with all their gear. In smaller letters up on the side of the Blue Too’s cabin roof were the words SPHP was looking for – Mako’s Water Taxi.

The skipper soon asked if Lupe was waiting for pick up. Yes, indeed! Minutes later, Loop and SPHP were out in front of the cabin windows in the cool breeze, while the Blue Too sped across the smooth, sheltered waters of Halibut Cove Lagoon. The Carolina Dog was amazed to see whole flocks, herds, packs of the giant sea squirrels!

Before heading out to Kachemak Bay, the Blue Too stopped by the Saddle trailhead in Halibut Cove to pick up 4 more passengers. Out on the open sea, it was sunny with big clouds. The return voyage was delightful until one of the clouds decided to let loose with a downpour. The shower was brief, but effective. Lupe and SPHP got soaked. No worries. Loop dried off in the breeze before the Blue Too cruised into the Homer Spit harbor.

Approaching the Homer Spit aboard the Blue Too.

5:35 PM, Homer Spit – Upon disembarking from the Blue Too, Looper’s adventures in Kachemak Bay State Park were over. Neither the Alpine Ridge trail to see the Grewingk Glacier yesterday, nor Poot Peak today had gone exactly as planned, but both had been memorable days in the stunningly beautiful Alaskan wilderness.

Still sopping wet, SPHP drove Lupe over to the Marine Park at the start of the Homer Spit. Dinner in the G6 with that grand view of Kachemak Bay, followed by a stroll along the beach. On the far shore, Lupe could see Grace Ridge (3,136 ft.), site of her first ever adventure in Kachemak Bay State Park two years ago now.

The **mountains of Kachemak Bay State Park** from the Marine Park at the start of the Homer Spit. **Grace Ridge** at far R. Photo looks SSE.

**Grace Ridge** across **Kachemak Bay**. Photo looks S.

After a change into dry duds for SPHP, Lupe left Homer at 8:05 PM. She made it to a deserted beach at Ninilchik in time to see the golden sun set between Iliamna Volcano (10,016 ft.) and Redoubt Volcano (10,197) beyond Cook Inlet.

Sunset across **Cook Inlet** from the beach at **Ninilchik**. **Iliamna Volcano** (L) and **Redoubt Volcano** (R). Photo looks W.

**Iliamna Volcano** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks W.

What a fabulous evening! **Iliamna Volcano** (L).

A beloved American Dingo at the end of a long day of adventures in wild Alaska.

**Redoubt Volcano** from the Sterling Highway after sunset. Photo looks WNW.

In Soldotna, SPHP stopped at Safeway for fried chicken and orange juice. It was late and pitch black when Lupe reached Bottenintnin Lake for the night. (11:33 PM)