Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 1: Worthen Meadow to Tayo Park (7-8-17 & 7-9-17)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Wow!  Was that it?  SPHP suspected it was.  Although the G6 said it was 97°F outside, Lupe was riding in air-conditioned comfort.  She was still E of Shoshoni on Hwy 20/26 in central Wyoming.  Far to the SW, the SE end of the fabulous Wind River range had come into view.

The sight of a towering white peak looming above all the others was faintly unsettling even from here.  Shimmering through the desert heat, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) and the surrounding high mountains had far more snow on them than SPHP had expected.  So much snow up there more than a week into July?  Maybe Lupe didn’t stand a chance.

The day had started off well enough.  Right away the American Dingo knew something was up.  For hours she’d followed SPHP’s every footstep, yipping and prancing anxiously.  Finally, just as she was losing hope, everything was ready.  Into the G6!  Suddenly Lupe was setting off on her 2nd Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2017 (11:09 AM)!

Only 20 days ago, after the fiasco at Jack Squirrel Peak (8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Mountains at the end of her previous Dingo Vacation, SPHP had promised to take Lupe to even higher mountains where she would find plenty of squirrels.  Loop hadn’t dared to hope SPHP would keep that promise so soon.  Once she reached Wyoming, though, she knew good things were in store.  Happy days ahead!

On the way to Wyoming’s glorious Wind River Range.
Oh, yeah! I’m pumped! Bring on Wind River Peak!

By 6:00 PM, Lupe reached Lander at the foot of the Wind River Range.  At the S end of 3rd Street, Lupe found Lander’s sweet city park by the Middle Popo Agie River.  Saturday night, but even so, SPHP was astonished at how busy it was!  The place was packed with people, kids and dogs.  A DJ was playing music.  Free camping is allowed!  Tents and RV’s were all over the place.  The park felt like a festival was in progress.

Yeah, this was going to be fun!  Lupe would spend the night here, too.  Nearby, a bridge arched over the Middle Popo Agie River.  On the other side was another, less-developed park.  It would be quieter over there.  Loop and SPHP went over the bridge, then took a walk along a mowed path to the bank of the river.  It was still hot out.  The Carolina Dog promptly got in the Middle Popo Agie to cool off and get a drink.

Lupe promptly hopped into the Middle Popo Agie River to cool off and enjoy a fresh snow-melt drink.
At the beautiful Middle Popo Agie River in Lander, WY.
The town of Lander, WY has a great city park at the S end of 3rd Street. Green lawns, big shade trees, a couple of little streams, and free camping to boot! No wonder it’s so popular! Loop was going to spend the night here, too!

Lupe had never been to Lander before, so an evening tour of the town was in order.  Looper was particularly interested in a couple of statues that caught her imagination.

Lupe loves watching pronghorn antelope race across the high Wyoming prairies and deserts. Naturally, she thought this pronghorn statue in Lander was cool, too.

Being an Indian warrior on horseback looked like it would be a pretty adventurous life! This one was conveniently close to McDonald’s, too.

After seeing some of Lander’s sights, SPHP ran in to Safeway to buy some fried chicken for dinner.  Then it was back to the city park for the rest of the evening.  SPHP set up Lupe’s “tiny house” for her.  Loop feasted on chicken, then spent the rest of the evening exploring and playing.  When the sun went down, the music stopped and the party was over.  Lupe was still excited.  It took a while for SPHP to persuade her to hit the hay.

The next morning, the American Dingo rose bright and early.  Time for action!  Today Lupe would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!

Lupe next to her “tiny house” in Lander City Park the next morning. Today she would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!

At the S end of 5th Street, SPHP drove out of Lander on Hwy 131.  Lupe was soon approaching Sinks Canyon.  She had time to get out and take a look around Sinks Canyon State Park.  SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near “The Rise”.

On the way up Sinks Canyon on Hwy 131, Lupe first came to “The Rise“, where the Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces after disappearing into a limestone cavern known as “The Sinks” 0.25 mile upstream.

Looper on the viewing platform at “The Rise“. She could see big trout swimming in the pool below.
Looking at “The Rise“, a large pool where the Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces from underground caverns. Water could be seen pouring into the pool from several points along the canyon wall. Photo looks downstream (NE).

If Lupe had been a bear, “The Rise” would have been quite a fascinating place!  The Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces from underground caverns here.  Lupe could see water pouring into a large pool from various points along the side of the canyon.  The pool was full of big trout which couldn’t swim any farther upstream.

American Dingoes don’t fish much, though, so Lupe and SPHP went on to see “The Sinks”.

The Sinks was only 0.25 mile upstream.  Here the Middle Popo Agie River disappears into a limestone cavern.  Ordinarily the entire river goes underground.  This morning the Middle Popo Agie was such a torrent that it entirely flooded the cavern.  Plentiful overflow continued down a surface channel.

The Sinks. The entire Middle Popo Agie River normally completely disappears into this limestone cavern. However, the Middle Popo Agie was a torrent this morning. The cavern was full and plenty of water continued downstream in a surface overflow channel.
Lupe cools her paws in the overflow channel. During normal water levels this spot is high and dry. Not today!
The Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River was a torrent this morning. Here it is shortly before taking the plunge down into The Sinks.

After visiting The Sinks & The Rise, Lupe and SPHP continued up Sinks Canyon on Hwy 131.  The highway eventually became Louis Lake Road, which wound very high up onto the upper SE side of the canyon.  The view looking back down the canyon was impressive.

Looking back down Sinks Canyon. Hwy 131 can be seen below. Photo looks NNE.

After a tremendous elevation gain, Louis Lake Road finally started to level out shortly before passing by Frye Lake.  A mile past Frye Lake was a R turn on USFS Road No. 302 to Worthen Meadow Reservoir.  Most of No. 302 was fine, but parts of it were very rough for the G6.  Nevertheless, the G6 made it through, and Lupe arrived at Worthen Meadow Reservoir.

Lupe at Worthen Meadow Reservoir. Photo looks E.

Well, this was it!  Lupe would start for Wind River Peak from here.  The Carolina Dog snapped at flies while SPHP got everything ready.  The trek should take three days and two nights.  Loop and SPHP shared some of the remaining fried chicken by the lake, then went in search of the TH on the W side of USFS Road No. 302.  Soon Lupe was on Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (10:45 AM, 71°F).

This first part of the trail was wide and very well worn.  Lupe traveled through an evergreen forest gradually gaining elevation.  After 0.67 mile, she reached her first objective, Roaring Fork Lake.

After only 0.67 mile on the Stough Creek Lakes trail, Lupe reaches her first objective, Roaring Fork Lake. Photo looks SW.

There were people and a few dogs at Roaring Fork Lake.  Most were hanging out at some big rocks along the N shore.  Lupe went out on the rocks, too.  The small lake was pretty.  Lupe could see high cliffs and peaks with snow in the distance beyond the lake.

Nearby, Roaring Fork Creek flowed N out of the lake.  The creek was deeper and much broader than SPHP expected, though the current looked gentle.  Where did the trail cross the creek?  SPHP had expected a bridge, but none was in sight.  Maybe it was a little downstream from here?

Lupe and SPHP followed what seemed to be a trail N through the forest near the E side of the stream.  The trail went a short distance, then vanished.  No trail and no sign of a bridge anywhere.  This couldn’t be right!  Lupe returned to Roaring Fork Lake.  SPHP talked to a few people.  None knew where the trail went, or where there was a bridge.  Roaring Fork Lake was as far as they intended to go.

When all else fails, consult the map!  The map showed the trail crossing Roaring Fork Creek right at the N end of the lake.  Hmm.  Lupe returned to the stream where it exited Roaring Fork Lake.  On the far shore, the trail was in plain sight.  No bridge!  That wasn’t good news at all.  The current didn’t look strong, but Lupe had never forded anything like this before.

SPHP waded into the stream.  Lupe followed.  Soon she was swimming.  A large rock protruded out of the water about 2/3 of the way across.  The water was mid-thigh deep by the time SPHP reached the downstream side of the rock.  Even though the current was gentle, Loop was having a hard time swimming against it.  She was in danger of being swept downstream.

SPHP grabbed Lupe and plucked her out of Roaring Fork Creek, placing her on the big rock.  SPHP continued on across, leaving the Carolina Dog stranded.

Stuck on the rock in Roaring Fork Creek where the stream leaves Roaring Fork Lake. Photo looks S.

Loop was safe on the rock, but she wasn’t sure what to do next.  SPHP encouraged her to jump back into the river and swim.  She hesitated.  Carolina Dogs aren’t water dogs.  Roaring Fork Creek was way over her head.

Lupe hesitates on the rock, uncertain if she wants to leap back into the river like SPHP was encouraging her to do, or not. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe made up her mind, she gave it her all.  With a mighty leap she launched herself into Roaring Fork Creek.  She sank below the surface, then popped up a moment later.  She’d leapt so far she only had to swim a few feet before she could touch bottom and scramble to shore.  Good girl!

Lupe shook herself off.  SPHP continued on the trail.  Soon Loop was leading the way.  The creek had been refreshing.

It had also been worrisome.  Lupe would have to cross other streams on the way to Wind River Peak.  Weren’t there going to be any bridges?  Eventually Loop would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River.  She had seen what a torrent the Popo Agie was back at The Sinks.  How on earth could she get across that without a bridge?  The obvious answer was – she couldn’t.

The trail led SW through the forest gaining elevation more rapidly than before.  0.75 mile from Roaring Fork Lake, the trail leveled out as it emerged from the forest at the edge of a vast marsh.  A wooden walkway went all the way across the marsh.  That was reassuring.  Lupe trotted across.

Crossing the marsh 0.75 mile beyond Roaring Fork Lake. The trail on the far side of the marsh would lead Loop toward the saddle seen on the L. Photo looks WNW.

Beyond the marsh, Trail No. 702 went W up a valley, gaining elevation at an increasing pace.  Higher up, Lupe came to a long series of big switchbacks.  It was warm out now, and just plain hot going uphill.  Loop and SPHP stopped periodically for water and to catch breath.  Never for long, though.  Mosquitoes and flies were a constant bother.  SPHP slathered on Deet, but it was only partially effective.

The trail became rockier.  For the first time, Lupe started getting views back down the valley.  She could see Frye Lake and Fossil Hill (9,089 ft.) beyond it.

Lupe by Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702. Frye Lake is in the distance on the L. Fossil Hill is beyond the lake. Photo looks ENE.

The long uphill grind seemed like it would never end.  After Lupe had gone 2 miles from the marsh and gained 1,000 feet of elevation, it finally did.  The American Dingo reached a saddle N of High Point 10,965.  For the first time since the marsh, Lupe was out of the forest.  The saddle was open meadow.  Lupe could see!

What the Carolina Dog saw was a massive mountain dominating other high peaks nearby.  Still 8 miles away as the crow flies, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) was unmistakable.

At the saddle N of High Point 10,965, Lupe came to a meadow where she could see again. What she saw was Wind River Peak, still 8 miles away. Photo looks W with considerable help from the telephoto lens.

The mountain still looked far away.  SPHP was already tired.  It began to dawn on SPHP that Lupe’s journey to Wind River Peak and back was likely to take more than 3 days and 2 nights.  Better go easy on the supplies, which were none too ample to begin with.

Still the view wasn’t entirely discouraging.  Although there was a lot of snow on the mountain, there were bare patches, too.  The terrain didn’t look bad either.  If Lupe could get to Wind River Peak, it looked like she stood a good chance of reaching the summit.

The view of Wind River Peak wasn’t entirely discouraging. Yes, there was a lot of snow on the mountain, but there were bare patches, too. The terrain didn’t look bad, either. If Lupe could get to the mountain, SPHP believed she could get to the top. Photo looks W with maximum assistance from the telephoto lens.

Lupe continued on.  Trail No. 702 started turning SW and headed back into the forest.  Lupe still got occasional glimpses of Wind River Peak, but none so good as she’d had back at the saddle.  She was now losing elevation.  Slowly at first, but eventually more rapidly as she reached some switchbacks.  The trail turned N and went around a hillside before dropping sharply.

More than a mile from the saddle, Lupe came to flatter terrain.  The ground was damp many places, and the trail muddy.  Orange colored ponds were scattered in the forest, and the mosquitoes were terrible.  The trail turned SW again and Lupe regained a little elevation.  The trail was increasingly muddy.  In some places it was just a stream.  SPHP kept expecting Lupe to come to an intersection, but none appeared.

Lupe cools off on the “trail”.

SPHP started to believe Lupe had somehow missed a turn onto Trail No. 704.  However, rushing water could be heard not too far ahead.  May as well check that out before turning back.  Lupe soon reached a rushing stream that poured out of a small lake nearby.

Stough Creek pours out of a small lake.

The stream was Stough Creek, though that wasn’t apparent at first.  A couple hundred feet downstream, Lupe did come to a trail intersection.  Good thing she hadn’t turned back!  A sign didn’t give any trail numbers, but the trail to the L led straight to a bridge over Stough Creek.  The sign said that trail went 3 miles to Stough Creek Lakes, so it had to be Trail No. 702 continuing onward.

The trail to the R was signed as leading in 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail.  That had to be Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704, the way Lupe needed to go.

Only a couple hundred feet after coming upon Stough Creek, Lupe reaches the intersection of Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (L) with Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 (R). Photo looks SW.
From this intersection, Lupe needed to take Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 (seen beyond her) 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail. Photo looks W.

Lupe headed W on Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704.  She was soon losing elevation steadily.  The trail was never far from Stough Creek, which could always be heard in the forest.  At one point the trail was right next to the creek.  The stream looked even bigger here, reinforced by some major tributary.

Lupe at Stough Creek near the upper end of Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704. Photo looks S.

Only 0.25 mile from the trail intersection, the Stough Creek Basin Trail reached the bottom of a valley where Stough Creek flowed N.  The trail vanished straight into the stream!  No bridge!

Good grief!  Another ford, and a far more worrisome one.  The trail could be seen emerging from the stream on the far bank.  However, the water was high and moving swiftly, completely filling the channel.  It was hard to tell how deep it was.  Stough Creek was already much larger than it had been farther upstream.  It wasn’t as wide as Roaring Fork Creek had been, but looked much more dangerous.  60 or 70 feet downstream of the ford, Stough Creek roared over whitewater rapids.

The more SPHP stared at the ford, the more unnerving it appeared.  Yes, it looked possible, but the current was clearly strong.  One slip might bring disaster.  Lupe would have to be carried over.  If SPHP fell and dropped her, Loop would have only 5 or 10 seconds to escape before the current would sweep her into the whitewater to be battered mercilessly against the rocks.

SPHP thought of Edward Earl, drowned in the Jago River.  Absolutely not!  Lupe wasn’t going to attempt this ford with the water so high.  Either there was a better place to cross, or Wind River Peak wasn’t happening.

Lupe and SPHP looked around.  Immediately upstream, the valley widened out.  Stough Creek went around several sharp bends.  The water was still moving at a good clip, but the surface looked calmer, less threatening.  Maybe one of those bends would be a better spot to try?  Worth investigating.

Low bushes grew thickly on both sides of the creek.  The ground they were on was all wet and marshy.  Lupe and SPHP forced a way through to the edge of the stream.  No deeper than Roaring Fork Creek here.  The water moved fast, but wasn’t turbulent.  No rapids nearby.  If there was a slip, Lupe would have lots more time to escape the river.

Definitely a better situation.  Not great, but should be OK.  Maybe Lupe could even swim across?  SPHP put her leash on so she wouldn’t get separated.  SPHP waded into Stough Creek.  Thigh deep again, but no more.  Harder to move and maintain balance, though.  The current was faster here than back at Roaring Fork Creek.

Lupe came swimming after SPHP.  She was instantly swept downstream, but the leash held her.  It wasn’t that far across, but the leash was choking her and making it hard for Loop to hold her head above water.  SPHP was nearly across, but Loopster was struggling and needed help.  SPHP stopped, pulled her in with the leash, and picked the cold, drenched Dingo up.  A couple more steps, and Lupe leapt to safety.

SPHP waded out.  Lupe was fine and shaking herself off.  The crossing hadn’t been too bad.  The whole ordeal had taken only 30 seconds.  Still it was good to be across.  The experience was a little too intense for comfort.  SPHP vowed Lupe would find a better way across Stough Creek on the way back from Wind River Peak.

Lupe safely across Stough Creek. She crossed at this bend. Photo looks SE.
The Stough Creek ford. It was a straight shot 60 or 70 feet downstream from here to roaring whitewater rapids. Lupe has already crossed safely a little farther upstream. Photo looks E.

Just beyond the ford was another trail intersection.  A look at the map showed that the trail to the R (No. 703) would follow Stough Creek downstream for miles to Three Forks Park.  Lupe needed to stick with Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704), which went straight.

Another trail intersection was just beyond the Stough Creek ford. Lupe stayed to the L, continuing straight on Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704) seen beyond her.

The terrain was fairly flat for 0.25 mile as Lupe followed No. 704 W from the intersection.  The trail then turned NW and started a steady decent.  The forest here was full of snowdrifts 2-4 feet high.  The trail vanished beneath them.  Lupe and SPHP continued down the valley trying to guess where the trail had gone.

Lost among the snowdrifts trying to find the trail again.

After 15 minutes of wandering through the forest, Lupe had lost enough elevation so she was below most of the snow.  The Carolina Dog found the trail again E of where SPHP had been looking.  Back on track!

No. 704 continued losing elevation.  It was an easy stroll for SPHP, and Lupe was having a great time!  SPHP had promised to take her to higher mountains where there were squirrels, and there were squirrels aplenty in this forest.  The Carolina Dog sprinted from tree to tree.  The whole valley echoed with shrill Dingo barking.  A glorious fun time, for sure!

Back on track again! A pattern seemed to be developing. The smaller the creek, the more likely the trail would have a bridge over it. Lupe needn’t have gotten her paws wet at this roaring cataract. However, none of the serious creek or river crossings seemed to have bridges.

Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to a small opening in the forest.  From a big rock, she saw Wind River Peak once more for the first time in a while.

Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to this opening where she could see Wind River Peak for the first time in a while. Photo looks WNW.
Wind River Peak from a boulder close to Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WNW.

Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 finally ended at another junction near the Middle Popo Agie River.  Lupe had lost 1,000 feet of elevation since leaving the saddle where she’d first seen Wind River Peak.  Now she would start regaining elevation going up the Middle Popo Agie River valley on Middle Fork Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park.  Before heading for Tayo Park, she went to take a look at the Middle Popo Agie River.

Loopster reaches Middle Fork Trail No. 700. From here, she would be going up the Middle Popo Agie River valley to Tayo Park (L).
Looking down the Middle Popo Agie River valley from near the junction of Trails No. 704 & No. 700. Photo looks NNE.
A look down the Middle Popo Agie River shortly after starting up Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park. Photo looks NNE.

The sign at the trail junction said it was only 1.5 miles to Tayo Park.  The moment of truth was coming.  Lupe would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River to reach Tayo Park.  There had better be a bridge!  The river was simply too large and swift to consider fording.

Loop on her way up the Middle Popo Agie River valley. She would have to cross the river to get to Tayo Park. SPHP hoped there would be a bridge, or she wouldn’t be able to get across.
Following Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park.

After more than a mile on Trail No. 700, Lupe came to yet another trail intersection.  She took a right on Trail No. 707.  If No. 707 had a bridge across the Middle Popo Agie River, the American Dingo would arrive at Tayo Park in less than 0.33 mile.

After more than a mile following Trail No. 700 up the Middle Popo Agie River valley, Lupe reaches a R turn onto Trail No. 707, which would soon bring her to Tayo Park.

Once she was on Trail No. 707, Loopster didn’t have far to go to reach the point where the trail crossed the Middle Popo Agie.  She was soon there.  Lupe had come miles and miles from Worthen Meadow.  The view was most disheartening.

Trail No. 707 disappeared into a shallow lake that filled the river valley.  It was a good 80 feet through the water just to reach ripples that showed where the channel of the Middle Popo Agie River was.  No bridge.  No way forward.

Trail No. 707 to Tayo Park disappears into a shallow lake well before reaching the Middle Popo Agie River. The river was at flood stage and way out of its banks. No bridge. No way across. Photo looks WNW.

All this way, and no bridge!  The river was at flood stage, way out of its banks.  SPHP stared across the shallow lake toward the ford.  Wade 80 or 100 feet out there, just to reach the river channel?  No!  No telling how deep or fast the water was over there.  It may look fairly calm, but a tremendous volume of water was flowing by.  Lupe had seen that all the way up here.  The current would be plenty strong.

Lupe and SPHP scouted along the dry land a little farther upstream.  The American Dingo had a lovely view of a mountain beyond the valley, but the situation wasn’t really any different.  Despair set in.  Clearly it would be foolish to attempt this ford.  Had Lupe met with defeat?  Yeah, this was the picture of defeat alright.

The view farther up the Middle Popo Agie River valley. Lupe saw a lovely mountain, but the situation down in the flooded river valley was still the same. Photo looks SW.
Maybe the view of this mountain was as close as Lupe was going to get to Wind River Peak? Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Farther upstream, a steady roar came from across the river valley.  Lupe could see Tayo Creek rushing down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River.  That started SPHP thinking.

Lupe near the end of the day in the Middle Popo Agie River valley. She wasn’t far from Tayo Park, but without a way to get there.

It was evening.  It had been a long, long day.  The mosquitoes were awful.  On a hillside near the river, there was a nice spot to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house” beneath some trees.  SPHP assembled it as rapidly as possible and threw everything inside.  Loop came in, too.  Peace, at last from those infernal bugs!

Loop had hardly eaten anything all day.  SPHP split the last of the fried chicken with her.  She got half a can of Alpo, and a large helping of Taste of the Wild, too.  Meanwhile, SPHP studied the Bridger-Teton national forest map.  It showed few details.  The original plan had called for Loop to either be at Tayo Lake or Deep Creek Lakes this evening.  Not going to happen.  Both were still a long way away.  To get to either, Lupe needed to get across the river to Tayo Park.

Slowly, though, an idea was growing.

I’m exhausted.  C’mon Loop, let’s get some sleep.  We’re staying here tonight.  No sense in doing anything rash.  At least, we’ve got a plan.  It’s a long, long shot, but might work.  We’ll see how feasible it is in the morning.

A plan? What do you mean by “we’ve got a plan“? You’ve seen the river SPHP! Now, I’m worried! Sheesh, what next? Can’t we just go back and bark at squirrels again?

Related Links:

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 2: Divide & Conquer, Tayo Park to Tayo Lake (7-10-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Crazy Peak, Montana – On the Verge of EPIC with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-22-17)

Day 15 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Dawn.  Lupe sat bright-eyed on SPHP’s lap listening to Morning Dew by the Grateful Dead.  She gazed intently out the window of Jobe’s silver Jeep Rubicon.  Jobe was expounding on Jerry Garcia’s musical talents as he drove.  Lupe listened politely as Jobe & SPHP chatted.  In truth, she was more interested in the possibility of seeing cows, deer, or squirrels along the 4WD road.

The sun was above the horizon by the time Jobe parked his Rubicon at a 6,900 foot elevation saddle on Crazy Peak’s SE ridge.  An old pickup truck was already parked nearby, but no one was around.  Good.  This was it!  Lupe’s big chance to climb Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.) with Jobe had arrived!  Crazy Peak wasn’t just any mountain.  With Crazy Peak done, Jobe would be on the verge of EPIC!

Sunrise from Crazy Peak’s SE Ridge.
Jobe leads the way as Lupe sets off for Crazy Peak. Photo looks WNW.

This opportunity to climb Crazy Peak with Jobe had been set in motion a couple of months ago.  While looking at the results of Jobe’s week long mid-May 2017 trip to the East Coast on Peakbagger.com, SPHP discovered Jobe was now very close to completing a huge peakbagging feat – one he had been working on for more than 20 years.  Jobe was only 2 peaks away from completing the EPIC List for all 50 US states!

Millions of people have enjoyed a hike to the top of the highest mountain in one or more US states.  In fact, it’s not that hard to reach the highest point in quite a few states.  However, only the truly dedicated ever seriously dream of climbing the highest mountain in all 50 states – in addition to the travel time and expense involved, that list contains some difficult peaks requiring equipment and technical climbing skills.  Yet those 50 highest peaks are only part of what we’re talking about here.  Jobe had already been to the top of the highest mountain in every state.  The EPIC List goes way beyond that.

Elevation is only one statistical measure of a mountain’s claim to grandeur.  There are others.  The EPIC list also considers Prominence and Isolation.  Prominence is a measure of the minimum elevation one would have to lose from a mountain’s summit to travel to a higher peak by any route, no matter how long, difficult or impractical.  Isolation measures how far away it is in a direct line to the closest higher mountain.

In 19 US states, the highest mountain is also the most prominent and has the most isolation.  The same mountain ranks 1st in all three categories.  However, in the other 31 states, 2 or 3 different peaks can claim to be either the highest, most prominent, most isolated, or some combination thereof.  Consequently, the EPIC List for the 50 US states includes not just 50, but 96 different peaks.

Only Bob Packard among all Peakbagger.com account holders has climbed all 96 peaks on the EPIC List.  Now Jobe was only 2 peaks away!  What caught SPHP’s eye was where those remaining unclimbed peaks were.  Both were in Montana, a state that borders South Dakota where Lupe lives.  Mount Cleveland (10,466 ft.) with 98.18 miles of isolation is the most isolated peak in Montana.  Located in the far NW part of the state in Glacier National Park, anti-Dingo regulations prevent Lupe from ever doing anything there.

The other summit Jobe was lacking was Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.).  With 5,709 ft. of prominence, Crazy Peak is the most prominent mountain in Montana.  Located in S central Montana in the Gallatin National Forest, it wasn’t nearly as far away as Mount Cleveland.

Crazy Peak has a spot on a lot of peakbagging lists, not just the EPIC list.  Early in 2017 SPHP had considered including Crazy Peak among the mountains Lupe might want to climb this summer.  A little research on Peakbagger.com had squelched that idea.  Every trip report was on the same ascent route, and most mentioned Class 4 terrain on the way to the summit.  SPHP didn’t know much about the rating system, but knew enough to realize that Lupe needed to stay far away from anything approaching Class 4.

Now a new idea crept into SPHP’s noggin.  Even if Lupe couldn’t climb Crazy Peak, wouldn’t it be fun to go there when Jobe with his superior skills climbed it?  Lupe and SPHP could still go partway up the mountain, and congratulate Jobe on his success when he returned from the summit on his way back down.  Lupe could still bask in her friend Jobe’s glory!

Well, maybe.  Lupe and SPHP didn’t really know Jobe very well.  In response to an email from Jobe, Lupe had scouted out conditions on Odakota Mountain (7,200 ft.) in the Black Hills back in late March of 2016 prior to a trip he was planning to western Nebraska and possibly South Dakota.  When Jobe subsequently arrived in the Black Hills on April 2nd, 2016, Lupe went with him to Odakota Mountain.

Lupe and SPHP had even followed Jobe all the way to the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska for an adventure down there that same day.  Jobe had treated Lupe very kindly the whole time.  When Lupe’s paws got sore, Jobe carried her to safety past the painful cactus that grew in profusion all over those desolate Nebraska hills.  Since then Jobe had occasionally stayed in touch via email.

Jobe was a great guy, but perhaps he had other plans for Crazy Peak with more experienced and capable climbers, or maybe he’d rather go solo than bother with a Carolina Dog?  Nothing ventured, nothing gained.  Didn’t hurt to ask.  On 5-23-17, SPHP sent Jobe an email.  When was Jobe planning on taking on Crazy and Cleveland?  Which would he tackle first?

A response came within a couple hours.  Jobe would likely take on Crazy Peak first.  The unique permitting process for climbing Mount Cleveland in Glacier National Park might cause an attempt on that peak to be delayed longer than Jobe would like.

On 5-25-17, SPHP sent another email.  This one popped the big question.  Lupe would be gone all of August, 2017, but if Jobe was planning on climbing Crazy Peak before then, would he mind if Loop and SPHP tagged along partway up?  Loop and SPHP had no delusions of reaching the top, and promised not to hold Jobe back from getting there himself.

Again came a quick response – an unexpected one.  All Jobe said was “Here’s some forwarded pics of Victor Zhou’s solo ascent of Crazy’s East Ridge from last summer.”  Eleven photos were attached.  SPHP got excited.  Those photos showed a big long ridge that got progressively rockier approaching Crazy’s summit.  The first part of the ridge was cake!  Lupe could get way higher on Crazy Peak than SPHP had thought.  Maybe she could even reach the summit!  It was hard to tell from the last few photos just what dangers might lurk among all that rock?

What was this, though, about an East Ridge route?  All the trip reports on Peakbagger.com mentioned coming up the W ridge.  Some mentioned going down the N ridge.  None of the reports or GPS tracks showed an attempt from the E.  Victor Zhou had climbed Crazy Peak on 7-20-16, but like most climbers, had not submitted a trip report or GPS track.  There were two E ridges, too.  One to the NE and one to the SE.  Which one did Victor climb?  After a look at the topo map, SPHP concluded Victor must have gone up the SE ridge.

SPHP fired off another email to Jobe expressing these thoughts.  Again Jobe responded quickly:

The route Victor climbed is unconventional and I have no idea why others haven’t climbed it with more regularity in the past.  It’s almost like everyone reads a particular trip report that mentions a specific route and that automatically becomes the only option?  The “normal” route is Class 4 where Victor’s is no more than Class 3 tops.  Might get a little sharp but not scary.  It’s definitely not the NE Ridge he ascended but I can ask him the definitive route (start location) and get back to ya.  He calls it the “East Ridge”.  If you want to meet and take a crack at it somewhere around July 22nd, I’m all in.

That’s all it took.  Crazy Peak was a go!

Now Lupe was really here!  Her chance to climb Crazy Peak with Jobe via Victor Zhou’s route had arrived!  Jobe led the way.  SPHP trailed behind, with Lupe bouncing back and forth between.  The first part of the trek was through forest.  Jobe headed WNW staying toward the S edge of the ridge.  Below was the deep canyon of the South Fork of Big Timber Creek.

An early glimpse to the SW down into the canyon of the South Fork of Big Timber Creek.

Progress through the forest was good.  A steady, but unremarkable climb.  After a little while, the forest began to give out.  Lupe and Jobe reached a minor high point where it was possible to get a good look at the first stretch of open terrain ahead.  Nothing fancy, or anything to be the least bit concerned about was in view, just a continuation of the steady climb minus trees.

The forest eventually gave out. From this minor high point Loopster has a good view of the open terrain ahead. Pretty easy to tell which way to go from here! Photo looks NW.
Jobe assesses the situation. The ridge on the R is also part of Crazy Peak’s massive SE ridge. The high point in view where the terrain converges is likely HP 8448. Photo looks NW.

Two “minor” sub-ridges, both part of Crazy Peak’s massive SE ridge converge near HP 8448.  (See the Peakbagger.com topo map.)  Lupe, Jobe and SPHP had been following the S one.  This caused no issues on the way up, but would be important to remember on the way down.

Jobe now beyond HP 8448. The terrain is still easy. Photo looks NW.
A better look from higher up at the South Fork of Big Timber Creek canyon. Photo looks SW.
Jobe leads the charge up. Lupe looking good not far behind.

Some distance beyond HP 8448, Jobe led Lupe and SPHP around to the N side of the ridge.  For a while, the terrain was a little easier here.  The slope down into the canyon to the N wasn’t as steep.  On the way to HP 9761, the summit of Crazy Peak came into view, still more than 2 miles to the WNW.

On the way to HP 9761, the summit of Crazy Peak came into view, still more than 2 miles to the WNW.
Jobe leads the way again after a stop to let SPHP catch up.

Even before the ridge became really rocky, SPHP was having a hard time keeping up with Jobe.  Lupe could easily enough, but the effects of the climbs of the past 2 days, and Lupe’s long adventures earlier in the Wind River Range were taking a toll on SPHP.  Though Jobe repeatedly stopped and waited, or went slowly for him, SPHP was falling farther and farther behind.

This came as no surprise.  Jobe is in far superior condition.  A mountaineer with tremendous experience and dedication to staying fit, he didn’t even look like he was trying.  Effortlessly, Jobe glided over terrain that SPHP trudged or stumbled through.  Jobe made it look so easy!  Meanwhile SPHP was having to stop repeatedly to catch breath.

The faithful American Dingo stuck mostly with SPHP as Jobe forged ahead.  SPHP’s slower pace gave her plenty of time to sniff around and relax.  She could even take short Dingo naps.

Lupe takes a little Dingo nap while SPHP pauses to catch breath. SPHP couldn’t go at the pace Jobe & Lupe were capable of, but so far, things were still looking good.

Despite falling behind, even SPHP was making reasonable progress.  Things were still looking good for reaching the summit of Crazy Peak!  The situation gradually changed, though, as the big ridge steadily narrowed and became rockier.

Getting closer, but as Lupe approached HP 9761, the ridge was already getting considerably narrower and rockier. Photo looks WNW.

By the time Looper made it to HP 9761, the ridge had narrowed down a lot.  Vegetation was nearly gone.  The ridgeline was rocky and uneven.  Both sides of the ridge were steep, and comprised of a lot of loose rock.  Here, the S side of the ridge wasn’t as bad as the N.

Jobe’s superior strength and stamina were now augmented by superior balance, too.  No contest at all now.  Jobe managed to simply walk the ridgeline in lots of places where SPHP felt compelled to down climb to get around rough spots.  That burned a lot of extra time.

The agreement all along had been that Jobe should not wait for SPHP.  While conditions were favorable, he really needed to get to the top of Crazy Peak.  Time to check this one off the EPIC List!  It would be great if Lupe and SPHP could get to the top, too, but there wasn’t the same degree of urgency.  Lupe could still try to summit a little later than Jobe.

As the ridge became more difficult for SPHP, Jobe surged ahead.  Lupe watched him go.  Of course, her best bet for getting to the top of Crazy Peak would have been to just go with Jobe.  Maybe she would have liked to, but she wouldn’t abandon SPHP.

Lupe watches as Jobe surges ahead. He’s now just a red spec on the ridge.
Lupe’s best bet for reaching the summit of Crazy Peak would have been to go with Jobe, but she wouldn’t abandon SPHP. She would still get there, if SPHP could make it.
Looking back. Here Lupe is past HP 9761 seen in the distance on the R. Photo looks E.

Looper and SPHP continued on, following Jobe who was getting farther and farther away.  Eventually Jobe paused at a high point and looked back, checking on Lupe’s progress.  For a moment he stood there, looking small, far away, and already much higher.

Jobe pauses and looks back to check on Lupe & SPHP a final time before disappearing from view. He was already a lot higher and quite a long way off. The telephoto lens makes Jobe look much closer than he really was. Photo looks WNW.

Jobe knew what he had to do.  A moment later, he was gone.  Lupe and SPHP were alone.  There was nothing else to do, but keep chugging along.

Lupe presses on, still optimistic, though Jobe has disappeared from view. Photo looks S.
Looking back down the SE ridge. HP 9761 in view. Photo looks SE.
A long way to go yet. That high point ahead isn’t even the summit. Photo looks WNW.
Looking SW.

Lupe was still making progress up Crazy Peak’s big SE ridge, but SPHP was frustrated with the pace.

Oh, Looper, I’m sorry, but maybe you should have gone with Jobe!

What!  Why?

I’m just too slow on this steep, loose stuff.  Our pace isn’t exactly scintillating, as you may have noticed.

Yes, but we’re getting there.  We’ll just keep going like we always do.

True.  So far so, good.  Nothing’s stopped us yet, but I’m afraid we’ll run out of time.  We can’t be coming back in the dark like we often do.  Jobe has a 14 hour drive back home after this.  He needs to hit the road so he can get back to work.  Besides, this doesn’t seem to be getting any easier and who knows how bad the terrain is up ahead?  Those last photos that Victor Zhou took looked questionable.  We might not even be able to get there.

So Jobe might not get to the top of Crazy Peak?  That would be terrible!

No, no.  Don’t worry about that.  Victor Zhou made it.  Jobe will make it, too.  But I’m not Victor or Jobe, not by a long shot.  I’m not saying we won’t get there, but it seems like we’ve already been at this quite a while, and there’s no sign we’re anywhere near the top yet.

Well, hurry it up then!

I’m coming, sweet puppy.  Lead on!

Lupe encourages SPHP up the next steep section. Photo looks WNW.

The summit of Crazy Peak had been out of view now for a while.  It was hard to tell how encouraged or discouraged one should be.  Lupe led the way up a couple of steep sections that went pretty well.  The rocks were larger and more stable here.  SPHP managed to make the climbs fairly rapidly.  Maybe there still was enough time for Lupe to reach the top of Crazy Peak?  Hope rekindled.  It sure looked like Lupe was getting high!

After a spurt up a couple of steep sections, hope was rekindled that Lupe would still have time to reach Crazy Peak’s summit. The views were already terrific! Photo looks SE back down the ridge.
Progress, but was it enough? Photo looks SE.

When the summit of Crazy Peak came into view again, it was a sobering sight.  Despite SPHP’s spurt, Lupe remained a long way from the top of the mountain.

When the summit of Crazy Peak (R) came back into view again, it was a sobering sight. Lupe was still a long way from the top. Photo looks WNW.

Ugh!  The summit’s still way over there, Looper.

Don’t give up!  We’re getting closer.

Yah, keep going, but seems like Jobe’s been gone quite a while now.  Sooner or later he’s going to reappear.  Probably sooner I would think, and we aren’t going to be close enough to justify continuing on then.

Jobe didn’t appear, though.  Lupe and SPHP carried on.  Unfortunately, the ridge was messier again.  SPHP kept down climbing to get around troublesome spots.  Slow, slow, slow!  Not good at all.

LOL, SPHP. We aren’t ever going to make it if you can’t stay up here! Lupe has a chuckle at SPHP’s endless down climbing.

Onward, bit by bit.  Time ticked by.  Though SPHP didn’t realize it then, the next big high point Lupe could see up ahead was 10,900+ feet.  The ridge was ragged, but Lupe could get there!  The summit would only be another 300 feet higher.

The high point on the L is 10,900+ feet, only 300 feet lower than Crazy Peak’s summit (seen beyond a little to the R). It looked like Lupe could at least get that far! Photo looks NW.

Pretty soon, though, a red dot appeared.  A red dot headed this way.  Jobe was returning!  Had he made it to the summit?  He’d been gone quite a long while – surely he’d made it?  What news would he bring?

A red dot appeared on the ridge ahead. Jobe was returning! Had he made it to the summit?

There’s Jobe, SPHP!

Yes, I see him, too.

Aren’t we going to go meet him?

No, let’s wait here Looper.  Jobe’s moving fast.  He’ll be here soon enough.  Let’s see what he has to say first.

Lupe and SPHP waited as Jobe worked his way back along the ridge.

A look through the telephoto lens at Jobe with Crazy Peak’s summit in the background. Photo looks NW.

As Jobe drew steadily nearer, SPHP took a few pictures of the views from this point Lupe had reached.  It wasn’t completely clear yet if she would be going any farther.

Crazy Lake is seen below from the point Lupe reached on Crazy Peak’s SE ridge. Photo looks W.
Big Timber Peak (10,795 ft.) (R) is connected to Crazy Peak by the sheer jagged ridge seen on the L. Probably the most challenging and technical route possible to Crazy Peak. No one goes that way. Photo looks N.
Looking back the way Lupe had come. Photo looks ESE.

Jobe arrived all smiles.  Success!  Yes, he’d made it to the top.  Crazy Peak was finally done.  Only Mount Cleveland was left to do on his 50 states EPIC List!  He graciously accepted congratulations from Lupe and SPHP.

Jobe returns all smiles! Yes, he’d made it to the top of Crazy Peak. Photo looks E.
The grand view from Crazy Peak’s summit. Photo by Jobe Wymore.
Jobe signed the Crazy Peak register. He had now completed the 50 US state most prominent peak list! Photo by Jobe Wymore.
Lupe and Jobe celebrate Jobe’s success. Photo looks E.

Surprisingly, Jobe had met 3 young women at the summit who came up from yet another route.  They’d camped overnight down at Crazy Lake, and had made a long trek on a steep, loose scree slope directly up the mountain.  They were concerned about the prospect of the impending rather scary trip back down to camp.  Jobe had spent some time talking to them, which was part of why he had been gone as long as he had.

So what was the rest of the route like?  Jobe said there were a few spots that were kind of sketchy with some exposure.  He’d gotten through just fine, though.  He wasn’t sure what SPHP might think, or how Lupe would fare.  A bit scary perhaps?  Jobe nodded his head indicating Lupe and SPHP were free to go on and take a crack at it.  Evidently he must have thought it was at least possible for Lupe to succeed.  It was very kind of him to be willing to wait.

First – two more key questions.  Jobe’s smart phone would have the answers.  What time was it, and what elevation had Lupe reached here?

Early afternoon.  Lupe is at 10,400 feet.

The summit of Crazy Peak looked a long way off.  (It was actually only a little over 0.5 mile away.)  Another 800 feet of elevation gain left, including some rough, sketchy territory with exposure ahead.  Most importantly, it was now afternoon.  Seven hours gone by already?  At the pace SPHP was going it would take Lupe another two hours to reach the top of the mountain.  By then it would be mid-afternoon.  That meant part of the return trip would be in darkness.

There had been plenty of time to think about things while Jobe was gone.  The terrain hadn’t stopped Lupe yet, but as much as SPHP would have liked for Lupe to succeed at climbing Crazy Peak, SPHP hesitated only a moment.

No, Jobe, we’ve timed out.  Let’s head down.

Right decision.  Lupe was happy.  Jobe was happy.  It was a relief to be going back down.  The day was a big success!  Jobe had made it to the top of Crazy Peak.  Lupe and SPHP had shared in the joy, and kept their promise not to delay him – at least not by too much.  Only Mount Cleveland to go!  Jobe indicated he might take on Mount Cleveland sometime in early August, only 2 or 3 weeks away.

Well before the sun went down, Lupe and SPHP were back in Jobe’s air-conditioned Jeep Rubicon, bouncing along comfortably.  Morning Dew and Terrapin Station by the Grateful Dead were playing.  Jobe resumed his enthusiastic dissertation on Jerry Garcia’s musical talents.  A good time, a really good time.

All too soon, Lupe was back at the G6, giving Jobe’s hand a final shake next to the Rubicon.

Pals Lupe and Jobe.
Lupe extends final congratulations to Jobe on his great success at Crazy Peak.

Brief good-byes and well wishes, then onward!  Jobe roared off in the Rubicon.  Minutes later, Lupe and SPHP were in the G6 going down the same dusty road.  Lupe resumed her usual watch for cows and horses to bark at.

After a fun day on Crazy Peak, Lupe resumes her watch for cows and horses to bark at.

SPHP soon stopped the G6 for a last look back.

Lupe’d had success climbing several nice peaks with Jobe on the previous two days.  Nevertheless, Crazy Peak (11,209 ft.) would always be the one that stood out from the others.  There it was, that long tantalizing SE ridge, forever leading skyward to the joyful moment when Lupe had stood with mountaineer and friend Jobe Wymore on the verge of EPIC!

Crazy Peak from the ENE.
Lupe and Jobe Wymore on the verge of EPIC. Crazy Peak, Montana – July 22, 2017.

Thanks to Victor Zhou for sharing the route on the SE ridge that Jobe used to summit Crazy Peak, and gave Lupe some hope of doing the same.

Epilogue

Although Lupe and SPHP were confident Jobe would be successful climbing Mount Cleveland in early August, 2017, Lupe wouldn’t know for certain how Jobe fared until she returned from her Summer of 2017 Dingo Vacation in September.

Lupe arrived home on 9-13-17, to find an email from Jobe waiting for her entitled “Mount Cleveland denial.  Weep, weep.”   Jobe had arrived at the National Park visitor center only to be turned away due to forest fires that had started only the evening before.  All backcountry permits via Goat Haunt had been cancelled.

So at the time of this post’s publication, Jobe remains on the verge of EPIC, only short Mount Cleveland from completing the 50 States of the USA EPIC List.  Of course, in due time Jobe will be back.  Lupe and SPHP wish him a speedy, successful and safe ascent! – 9-22-17

August, 2018 Update

Jobe eventually did complete the USA 50 States EPIC List more than a year after his adventure with Lupe on Crazy Mountain with a successful ascent of Mount Cleveland on 8-16-18.  Congratulations, Jobe!

Links:

                 Next Dingo Vacation                    Prior Adventure

            This Dingo Vacation                           Prior Dingo Vacation

Jobe Wymore on Peakbagger.com

EPIC List – States of the USA (showing all peaks and dates of Jobe’s ascents)

EPIC List – States of the USA  (showing front runners with the most ascents)

To the Wildcat Hills of Nebraska with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (4-2-16)

Mount Powell, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-20-17)

Naya Nuki Peak & Sacagawea Peak, Montana with Mountaineer Jobe Wymore (7-21-17)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.