Tayo Park – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 2: Divide & Conquer, Tayo Park to Tayo Lake (7-10-17)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Lupe hadn’t seen the stars all night. In the wee hours, SPHP woke to the sound of raindrops on her “tiny house”. Not good. The rain cover had been lost years ago. If it rained hard at all, everything would get soaking wet. Lupe wanted out to sniff around in the darkness. SPHP unzipped the door and let her go.

The Carolina Dog returned before too long, content to lay down on her red sleeping bag again. SPHP folded it over her for warmth. Light rain continued intermittently for hours. A gray dawn finally heralded the new day. Everything was damp. Better get going nonetheless.

Lupe in her “tiny house” at the start of a gray morning in the **Wind River Range**.

After a brief bite to eat, it was time to find out what fate had in store.

May as well leave things here while we do a quick reconnaissance, Loop. This might all be over before we even get started.

Over! Last night, you said you had a plan!

Yes, two plans actually. The first one is no doubt doomed from the start. We’ll know for certain in a few minutes. The second plan might well suffer the same fate. Maybe, though, it will leave us with some hope, at least for a while.

Oh! Doesn’t sound too good. Are we going back soon, then?

Yes, Looper, if neither plan works, we won’t have any choice. Our Wind River Peak dreams will be kaput. Come on! Let’s go down to the river, and get this over with.

The Middle Popo Agie River was only a couple minutes away from the tiny house. Surprisingly, the river had actually dropped an inch or two overnight. It wasn’t enough, not nearly enough. Plan A was a failure. Lupe would still have to traipse 80 feet or more through a shallow lake just to get to the river channel where the ford was. No way! The river was way out of its banks, and far too dangerous.

That was Plan A, SPHP? You’re kidding, right? You knew the river would still be flooding!

Of course, but yeah, hoping that the river had gone down enough to ford it was Plan A. We at least had to come and take another look, didn’t we? Thought maybe it would look more possible this morning than when I was tired last night. It doesn’t. Let’s go check out Plan B.

Plan B had better be a doozie compared to Plan A!

Lupe had spent the night camped only 0.25 mile away from the intersection of Trails No. 707 & 706 up in Tayo Park. From there, she would have had two possible routes to Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.). She could have taken No. 706 N to Deep Creek Lakes, or No. 707 W to Tayo Lake.

The original idea was to make a nice loop up via Deep Creek Lakes and down by Tayo Lake. SPHP had seen trip reports where others had done it that way. However, the Wind River Range still had tons of snow in the high country. Snow melt was flooding the Middle Popo Agie River. Loop couldn’t even get to the ford on Trail No. 707, never mind across the river.

Lupe and SPHP returned to her tiny house, then took a shortcut S to Middle Fork Trail No. 700. On the way, Lupe could see Tayo Creek on the opposite side of the valley roaring down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River only a little upstream of the ford. That sight was what had given SPHP hope yesterday evening. Maybe Loopster wasn’t totally thwarted yet in her efforts to get to Wind River Peak?

From this rock not far from her tiny house, Lupe could see **Tayo Creek** roaring down out of the forest to join forces with the **Middle Popo Agie River**. Photo looks NW.

**Tayo Creek** surges into the flooded valley of the **Middle Popo Agie River**. The tremendous flow in **Tayo Creek** was what gave SPHP the idea for Plan B. Photo looks NW.

Lupe reached Middle Fork Trail No. 700 a little S of where she’d left it yesterday evening to take Trail No. 707 to the flooding Middle Popo Agie River. A small wooden sign along No. 700 read simply “Tayo Park”.

Hey, Loop, look at that! We’re already at Tayo Park! Lower Tayo Park, that is. The topo map only shows Tayo Park on the other side of the Middle Popo Agie River 120 feet higher than where we are now. Guess there’s an Upper and a Lower Tayo Park? At least now we can say you did make it to Lower Tayo Park, if not the upper one.

Nothing’s really changed, though? We’re no better off than we were?

Not yet, sweet Dingo! We’ll know soon if there’s any hope of improvement.

Lupe and SPHP followed Middle Fork Trail No. 700 going S toward Sweetwater Gap. The Middle Popo Agie River snaked through flooded Lower Tayo Park just W of the trail.

The **Middle Popo Agie River** meanders through flooded **Lower Tayo Park**. Photo looks SW.

The S end of Lower Tayo Park was only 0.2 mile away. When Lupe got to it, SPHP led her off Trail No. 700 over to the Middle Popo Agie River.

Hey, you’re in luck Looper! It’s on! Let’s go back and get the tiny house and rest of the gear.

Plan B is going to work?

Well, at least at the start. We’ll just have to see how far we can get. No guarantees at all.

So what is Plan B exactly?

Divide and conquer.

Meaning?

Meaning we’re coming back to cross the Middle Popo Agie right here. Most of the flow at the ford comes from Tayo Creek, which is actually by far the larger of the 2 streams above their confluence in Lower Tayo Park. After crossing the Middle Popo Agie, we’ll still be on the wrong side of Tayo Creek. You will have to keep following it upstream until either there’s a way across, or some impassable obstacle blocks the way forward. The farther we can make it upstream, the more tributaries we’ll get by, the smaller Tayo Creek will be, and the better our chances of reaching the trail again somewhere.

So in the meantime, we’re going to let the waters divide, and conquer them one smaller stream at a time?

Precisely, dear Dingo!

So there won’t be a trail?

Nope, a total bushwhack for miles, probably.

Oh, I love bushwhacks, SPHP! Plan B sounds like a great adventure!

Doesn’t it, though?

What are we waiting for? Let’s run!

Lupe streaked back to Trail No. 700. Of course, SPHP was much slower, so Loop had to keep returning to bark encouragement. It wasn’t too long, though, before SPHP had retrieved the tiny house and all the gear. Once again, Lupe stood on the E bank of the Middle Popo Agie River at the S end of Lower Tayo Park.

Lupe along the E bank of the **Middle Popo Agie River** at the S end of **Lower Tayo Park**. Above the confluence with **Tayo Creek**, the river was much smaller here. Lupe would have no problem crossing to the W (L) bank all on her own. Photo looks NNE.

The Middle Popo Agie River was still a good-sized, fast flowing stream, but much smaller here than farther downstream where Tayo Creek added its torrential flow. SPHP forded the river first. Loop followed close behind. The waters were still pretty deep for her, but she managed to get across without any help. Plan B was underway!

Loop headed N along the W side of Lower Tayo Park. The whole bottom of the valley was a bog or worse. Lupe climbed a little up onto drier ground along the valley’s edge. She passed over a small forested ridge and came to a field on the other side, much of which also proved to be boggy. Loop crossed the wet field, and again climbed to drier ground in the forest.

The roar of Tayo Creek could be heard ahead. Lupe continued climbing steadily through open forest toward the noise. The terrain wasn’t bad at all. Mosquitoes were, though. Those miserable blood suckers were awful again today. 0.25 mile N of where Lupe had crossed the Middle Popo Agie, she reached a rock where she could see Tayo Creek rushing down a narrow channel below a steep bank. A small island was surrounded by whitewater.

Lupe reaches **Tayo Creek** 0.25 mile N of where she’d forded the **Middle Popo Agie River**. Photo looks WNW.

Somewhere not too far away on the other side of Tayo Creek was Trail No. 707 to Upper Tayo Park. As fully expected, Lupe had no way to cross the raging stream yet. Lupe and SPHP turned W staying in the forest and following Tayo Creek upstream.

After gaining only a little over 100 feet of elevation, the terrain began to level out. Lupe had reached the S side of Upper Tayo Park. The surface of Tayo Creek was calm here, though ripples showed the water was still moving fast. A bog full of bushes prevented the Carolina Dog from getting anywhere close to the creek, which looked deep. On the far side, the bog extended hundreds of feet beyond the stream.

Looking N across **Tayo Creek** toward a portion of **Upper Tayo Park**. The intersection of Trails No. 707 & No. 706 is somewhere on the other side of the stream, but Loop had no way to get across. Photo looks NNE.

The American Dingo continued WSW following Tayo Creek. Beyond Upper Tayo Park, she started gaining elevation again. Tayo Creek reverted to a whitewater torrent. Though most of the ground in the open forest was dry, Lupe and SPHP crossed many snowdrifts. Despite the mosquitoes, Loop was having a fantastic time! Squirrels were everywhere! The Carolina Dog’s incessant yipping and yapping echoed through the valley.

SPHP’s promise, recently made back at Jack Squirrel Peak (8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Range, to bring Loop to higher mountains where there would be squirrels galore was being fulfilled!

Above **Upper Tayo Park**, **Tayo Creek** became a whitewater torrent again. Lupe wasn’t worried about getting across. The forest on this side of the stream was full of squirrels to bark at! Photo looks W.

Tayo Creek was becoming even more wild as Lupe continued upstream. SPHP feared it would eventually flow right up against cliffs, or other obstacles on the S side of the valley that Lupe couldn’t get past. So far, though, it hadn’t. Instead of finding herself blocked, Lupe discovered a lovely waterfall.

Lupe discovers a waterfall on **Tayo Creek**.

Lupe came to two separate waterfalls on Tayo Creek. They weren’t far apart. The lower falls were the largest. Staying in the forest, the American Dingo had no problem continuing upstream beyond them.

**Lower Tayo Creek Falls**. These lower falls were the largest. Photo looks NNW.

On a snowbank between **Lower & Upper Tayo Creek Falls**. Apparently the snow here was quite tasty.

Lupe reaches **Upper Tayo Creek Falls**. Some of the open areas had an awful lot of snow around by the time Loop got this far. Fortunately, there wasn’t as much snow in the forest. Photo looks NNW.

Loop didn’t have to travel very far beyond the waterfalls before the valley began to open up more. The American Dingo could now see some of the high country ahead.

Above **Upper Tayo Creek Falls**, the valley started to open up. Lupe began getting glimpses of some of the high territory ahead. Photo looks W.

Loop had been making good progress. SPHP realized that the valley opening up meant the Carolina Dog was fast approaching Poison Lake. If she couldn’t get around it, Poison Lake would spell the end of Plan B’s success.

Poison Lake! You never said anything about a Poison Lake, SPHP!

Oh, don’t worry about it Loopster. I can’t imagine it’s actually poisonous.

Ridiculous humans! Then why on earth would it be called Poison Lake?

How should I know? Someone once had a poor experience, I suppose.

Well thanks so much for the heads up, SPHP! Think I’ll just keep eating snow and drinking from these smaller streams, if you don’t mind.

Suit yourself, Loop. I think you could drink gallons from Poison Lake and be none the worse for the wear, though.

Lupe went over the crest of a little saddle, and there it was. Charmingly named Poison Lake, dead ahead! Loop went right on down to the shore, but did not wet her whistle. The view was reassuring. Yeah, Loopster shouldn’t have any problem getting around the S side of the lake. That was welcome news! Poison Lake had been a potentially serious obstacle.

Lupe reaches the NE shore of enticing **Poison Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Views from the NE shore were reassuring. The terrain around the S side of the lake looked easy enough. Lupe would be able to get around **Poison Lake**, contrary to SPHP’s unwarranted fears. Photo looks SSW.

Lupe headed S through the forest close to the E shore of the lake. The steepest terrain was near the SE end of Poison Lake. Lupe had to climb some distance above the shoreline. She came upon a big rock platform with a great view of the lake. Loop could even see Wind River Peak from here!

The sky was finally clearing. The day was brighter, more cheerful, and pleasantly warm. The mosquitoes, which had been bad until now, were less troublesome on the big rock. Plan B was going well, much better than SPHP had feared. Time for a break to celebrate Lupe’s success in reaching this lovely spot!

Lupe and SPHP lingered on the big rock overlooking Poison Lake for close to half an hour, enjoying the views and successful execution of Plan B to this point.

Lupe reaches the big rock platform at the SSE end of **Poison Lake**. Photo looks WNW.

**Wind River Peak** (in the distance on the L) was visible from the big rock at **Poison Lake**. Photo looks NNW.

When break time was over, Lupe and SPHP continued the rest of the way around the S side of Poison Lake to the W shore. Lupe then began following Tayo Creek farther upstream. SPHP had hoped Loop would find a way across the stream beyond Poison Lake, but those hopes were quickly dashed.

The whole valley was boggy anywhere near Tayo Creek. The creek was smooth surfaced again as it flowed through nearly level terrain. The stream was so wide, it was hard to tell where Poison Lake ended and Tayo Creek began.

Beyond the main body of **Poison Lake** was this wide channel which might still have been part of the lake. Photo looks NNE.

Looking back at **Poison Lake**. The rock Loop was on in the previous photo is seen below on the R where the snow is. Photo looks NE.

Eventually Tayo Creek narrowed down enough so it was clear Loop was beyond Poison Lake. She finally came to a place where relatively dry ground went almost all the way to the creek’s edge. Loop and SPHP both made it onto a big white rock where it was possible to peer down into the water.

Good heavens! The water was very clear, but remarkably deep. It was easily over SPHP’s head, and perhaps twice that depth.

Lupe by **Tayo Creek** upstream from **Poison Lake**. Loop & SPHP both made it out to the big white rock at Center. From there Lupe could peer down into the clear, cold water. Tayo Creek’s depth was easily over SPHP’s head here! The rocky hill at Center in the distance is **High Point 10,662**. Photo looks WSW.

Since crossing Tayo Creek was still totally out of the question, Lupe pressed on. She had to stay quite a distance from the stream channel due to surrounding bogs. Looper traveled mostly in the forest or along its edge. The Carolina Dog was making progress, but even the hillsides were soaking wet now. Rivulets of snow melt ran down every ravine, and pooled in every low spot.

Often it was advantageous to travel over huge snowdrifts at the forest’s edge. Usually the drifts held even SPHP’s weight. For Lupe, they were Dingo super highways. As SPHP marched onward, Lupe dashed about the forest in a relentless search for the next squirrel to annoy, frequently enjoying success.

Nearly a mile from Poison Lake, Lupe finally reached a major obstacle. A stream much larger than any other tributaries of Tayo Creek she had come to so far cascaded down rocky rapids from the S. This had to be the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake.

Nearly a mile SW of **Poison Lake**, Lupe reaches a **major tributary of Tayo Creek** cascading down from **Mountain Sheep Lake**.

Crossing the tributary from Mountain Sheep Lake was an absolute necessity. Success would be a huge step forward in the divide and conquer plan. Failure meant defeat plain and simple – Lupe would have to turn back without ever having reached Wind River Peak.

Loop had reached the tributary at a bad spot. It didn’t look safe to cross here. The search began for a better place. The American Dingo needed to find one fast. The map showed that Mountain Sheep Lake probably wasn’t any more than 0.1 mile away. If Lupe reached the lake without finding a decent ford, it was all over.

The luck of the Dingo was with her! Going upstream, Lupe soon came to a place where the rocks were smaller. The creek spread out widely and evenly without deep spots. She could do this!

Lucky Lupe finds a decent place to ford the creek coming down from **Mountain Sheep Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Lupe had no problem fording the stream from Mountain Sheep Lake all by herself. This success was a huge boost to her chances of reaching Wind River Peak. Once across, Loop and SPHP turned NW. Tayo Lake wasn’t much more than 1.5 miles away now!

Before long, Lupe could see a signpost sticking up out of a snowbank ahead. She’d reached a trail junction! Both trails were hidden beneath the snow, but one sign pointing W was for Trail No. 705 to Coon Lake. The other sign was for Trail No. 707 to Tayo Lake!

Lupe came to this signpost sticking up out of the snow at the intersection of Trail No. 705 to **Coon Lake** and Trail No. 707 to **Tayo Lake**. Although both trails were hidden beneath snow, just getting to them was a huge psychological boost! Photo looks N.

Beyond the snowbank, Lupe found the actual trail to Tayo Lake. She quickly lost it again beneath more snow, and was almost immediately confronted with another big stream. This was the tributary of Tayo Creek coming down from Crow Lake to the W. After searching around in a bog not far from the trail intersection, Lupe found a way across this relatively large stream, too. More progress!

A steady climb NW through the forest began as Loop forged ahead looking for the trail to Tayo Lake. It took a while to find it again. Even once it was found, it was hard to keep it that way. The trail was a fairly minor single track here. It kept disappearing beneath more snow, or disguising itself as a small stream.

**Trail No. 707 to** **Tayo Lake** was hard to follow. It kept disappearing beneath snow drifts and disguising itself as a small stream.

About 0.5 mile from the trail intersection, the terrain leveled out. Trail No. 707 hardly existed here, but cairns showed Lupe was still on the right track. She was getting close to the final big creek crossing. Fording Tayo Creek could be delayed no longer.

0.5 mile NW of the trail intersection where Lupe had seen the signpost, the terrain leveled out. Here she’s standing next to one of the cairns showing she was still on the right track. Photo looks WNW.

Looking NNW toward **Wind River Peak** (L of Center).

Trail No. 707 was nowhere in sight when Lupe reached Tayo Creek again. A cairn on the opposite N shore showed that this was the ford, though. The creek was greatly reduced from the torrent it had been miles downstream. Divide and conquer had worked! SPHP waded across.

The trail was nowhere in sight when Lupe reached a much reduced **Tayo Creek** again. This was the right spot, though. A cairn for Trail No. 707 is in view on the far shore sitting on the snow to the R. Photo looks NE.

Even though Tayo Creek was greatly reduced, the water was still over Lupe’s head by the S bank where she reached it. An icy plunge into the swift stream was still intimidating. SPHP encouraged her to come, but Looper sat forlornly on the far bank looking worried.

Lupe had been doing great, but yet another icy plunge into a stream that was still over her head was intimidating. She did not follow SPHP across, and did not respond to encouragement. Photo looks SSW.

Poor Loopster was afraid. How many scary, icy river crossings did she have to make in a single day, anyway? SPHP decided to go help her, and turned around momentarily to drop the backpack. Even more afraid of being abandoned than she was of Tayo Creek, Loop plunged in and crossed all by herself. What a trooper!

Lupe’s climb resumed up a forested hill. Once again, the terrain soon leveled out. Up ahead, beyond a boggy plain, Loop saw a snowy saddle. That saddle was where Tayo Creek flows out of Tayo Lake. Lupe was almost there!

Across a small boggy plain, Lupe could see a snowy saddle (L). That saddle was where **Tayo Creek** flows out of **Tayo Lake**. Lupe was almost there! **Wind River Peak** is seen on the R. Photo looks NW.

Following cairns across the boggy plain toward the snowy saddle. Photo looks NW.

After crossing the bog, Lupe started climbing. She stayed NE of the snowy saddle following avalanche tracks through a stunted forest. Views behind her improved rapidly as Loop gained elevation. The view of Mt. Nystrom (12,356 ft.) was particularly impressive.

As Lupe made the final climb to **Tayo Lake**, the views behind her to the S improved rapidly. **Mt. Nystrom** (Center) was particularly impressive. Photo looks S.

**Mt. Nystrom** (R of Center) from near **Tayo Lake**. Photo looks S.

Finally, 250 feet above the boggy plain, Lupe saw her objective – Tayo Lake! Plan B – Divide & Conquer had worked! Despite what SPHP had thought were poor odds, Lupe had made it. She was really here!

Tayo Lake was absolutely gorgeous! A layer of snow and ice floated on most of its surface. Impressive rock walls guarded the S and W shores. Two miles N, and nearly 2,500 feet higher, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) beckoned. Tomorrow Lupe would have a chance to climb it. For the first time, her prospects for success suddenly seemed bright!

Upon reaching **Tayo Lake** (L), Lupe’s prospects for success climbing **Wind River Peak** (R) tomorrow suddenly seemed bright. Photo looks NW.

Despite what SPHP had regarded as poor odds, Divide & Conquer had worked! Lupe rests on a grassy shelf with a great view of **Tayo Lake**. The **Tayo Creek** outlet is below on the L. Photo looks W.

Beautiful **Tayo Lake** in the **Wind River Range**, WY. Photo looks WNW.

To the N & E of Tayo Lake, a long, broad ridge rose steadily toward the NW. Parts of the ridge were covered with stunted forests, but most of it was open ground. To further improve the chances of a successful ascent of Wind River Peak tomorrow, Lupe and SPHP started up the ridge.

From the broad ridge, Lupe could soon see a large waterfall plunging into a canyon to the E.

Continuing up a broad ridge **NE of Tayo Lake**, Lupe soon had a view of a large waterfall plunging into a canyon to the E. Photo looks ENE.

The same waterfall with help from the telephoto lens.

Lupe climbed more than 400 feet above Tayo Lake to a flat part of the ridge straight N of the lake. Although the afternoon had been mostly sunny, rain showers were now threatening. SPHP didn’t put up Lupe’s “tiny house” right away. Instead, Lupe and SPHP took a tour of the ridge to see the sights. An even higher mini-Tayo Lake, Lake 11,145, was in view to the W.

Rain showers were threatening as Lupe approached a flat part of the ridge 400 feet above and straight **N of Tayo Lake**. Photo looks WNW.

From the ridge **N of Tayo Lake**, Lupe could see another beautiful little lake. **Lake 11,145** was tucked beneath a wall of rock that reminded SPHP faintly of the famed **Cirque of the Towers**, also in the **Wind River Range** 8 miles to the NW. Photo looks WNW.

Looking down on **Tayo Lake** from the ridge to the N. **Mt. Nystrom (12,356 ft.)** is on the horizon (Center). Photo looks SSE.

It was early evening and had been another long day. Lupe and SPHP were weary. Both curled up together beside a big rock where there was a grand view of Tayo Lake 400 feet below. The rock had an overhang offering partial protection from any rain showers. Drowsiness set in. Before long, Lupe and SPHP were completely out it.

The nap was helpful. When it was over, the sky was clearer. Lupe and SPHP set off to the N on top of the ridge looking for a place to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house”. A good spot was hard to find. Although it looked grassy, the ridge was actually rather rocky and dotted with boulders. Finally Lupe came to a place at around 11,250 feet elevation where the ground was lumpy, but not rocky. This would do.

SPHP put up the tiny house. Lupe had a great view of Lake 11,145 to the W from here. She could see Wind River Peak to the N. It was supposed to be more than 2,000 feet higher, but didn’t look that high. No doubt that was an illusion. Tayo Lake wasn’t in sight, but a 500 or 600 foot stroll to the S was all it took for a grand view.

Lupe rests beside her “tiny house” pitched at 11,250 ft. elevation. **Mt. Nystrom** is in view (L of Center). Photo looks SSE.

The view of **Lake 11,145** from the tiny house. Photo looks WNW.

What a day it had been! Lupe had tons of fun racing around the woods barking at squirrels. She had forded 4 major streams, countless small creeks, crossed numerous soggy bogs and huge snow drifts, climbed on rocks, and traveled many a mile. Divide and Conquer had worked! The Carolina Dog was now in position for an ascent of Wind River Peak tomorrow.

She’d had hardly anything to eat all day, though. Part of a Cliff bar and a single bowl of Taste of the Wild. Didn’t matter. Lupe was too tired to eat. The sun wasn’t down quite yet, but Loop was ready to go inside her “tiny house” and curl up on her sleeping bag.

Outside, clouds were gathering. A few raindrops struck the tiny house. SPHP pulled some of her sleeping bag over the exhausted Carolina Dog.

So far, so good, Loopster. You did great again today, sweet Dingo! Just hope we don’t get drenched tonight.

Lupe didn’t hear it. She was already in Dingo dreamland still barking happily at all those lovely squirrels.

One tired puppy snoozing in her “tiny house” at 11,250 feet 1.5 miles SSE of **Wind River Peak**, WY 7-10-17.

Related Links:

Prior Adventure

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 3: Tayo Lake to the Summit (7-11-17)

Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 1: Worthen Meadow to Tayo Park (7-8-17 & 7-9-17)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana

Wow! Was that it? SPHP suspected it was. Although the G6 said it was 97°F outside, Lupe was riding in air-conditioned comfort. She was still E of Shoshoni on Hwy 20/26 in central Wyoming. Far to the SW, the SE end of the fabulous Wind River range had come into view.

The sight of a towering white peak looming above all the others was faintly unsettling even from here. Shimmering through the desert heat, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) and the surrounding high mountains had far more snow on them than SPHP had expected. So much snow up there more than a week into July? Maybe Lupe didn’t stand a chance.

The day had started off well enough. Right away the American Dingo knew something was up. For hours she’d followed SPHP’s every footstep, yipping and prancing anxiously. Finally, just as she was losing hope, everything was ready. Into the G6! Suddenly Lupe was setting off on her 2nd Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2017 (11:09 AM)!

Only 20 days ago, after the fiasco at Jack Squirrel Peak (8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Mountains at the end of her previous Dingo Vacation, SPHP had promised to take Lupe to even higher mountains where she would find plenty of squirrels. Loop hadn’t dared to hope SPHP would keep that promise so soon. Once she reached Wyoming, though, she knew good things were in store. Happy days ahead!

On the way to Wyoming’s glorious **Wind River Range**.

*Oh, yeah! I’m pumped! Bring on **Wind River Peak**!*

By 6:00 PM, Lupe reached Lander at the foot of the Wind River Range. At the S end of 3rd Street, Lupe found Lander’s sweet city park by the Middle Popo Agie River. Saturday night, but even so, SPHP was astonished at how busy it was! The place was packed with people, kids and dogs. A DJ was playing music. Free camping is allowed! Tents and RV’s were all over the place. The park felt like a festival was in progress.

Yeah, this was going to be fun! Lupe would spend the night here, too. Nearby, a bridge arched over the Middle Popo Agie River. On the other side was another, less-developed park. It would be quieter over there. Loop and SPHP went over the bridge, then took a walk along a mowed path to the bank of the river. It was still hot out. The Carolina Dog promptly got in the Middle Popo Agie to cool off and get a drink.

Lupe promptly hopped into the **Middle Popo Agie** **River** to cool off and enjoy a fresh snow-melt drink.

At the beautiful **Middle Popo Agie River** in Lander, WY.

The town of Lander, WY has a great city park at the S end of 3rd Street. Green lawns, big shade trees, a couple of little streams, and free camping to boot! No wonder it’s so popular! Loop was going to spend the night here, too!

Lupe had never been to Lander before, so an evening tour of the town was in order. Looper was particularly interested in a couple of statues that caught her imagination.

Lupe loves watching pronghorn antelope race across the high Wyoming prairies and deserts. Naturally, she thought this pronghorn statue in Lander was cool, too.

Being an Indian warrior on horseback looked like it would be a pretty adventurous life! This one was conveniently close to McDonald’s, too.

After seeing some of Lander’s sights, SPHP ran in to Safeway to buy some fried chicken for dinner. Then it was back to the city park for the rest of the evening. SPHP set up Lupe’s “tiny house” for her. Loop feasted on chicken, then spent the rest of the evening exploring and playing. When the sun went down, the music stopped and the party was over. Lupe was still excited. It took a while for SPHP to persuade her to hit the hay.

The next morning, the American Dingo rose bright and early. Time for action! Today Lupe would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!

Lupe next to her “tiny house” in Lander City Park the next morning. Today she would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!

At the S end of 5th Street, SPHP drove out of Lander on Hwy 131. Lupe was soon approaching Sinks Canyon. She had time to get out and take a look around Sinks Canyon State Park. SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near “The Rise”.

On the way up **Sinks Canyon** on Hwy 131, Lupe first came to “**The Rise**“, where the **Middle Popo Agie River** resurfaces after disappearing into a limestone cavern known as “**The Sinks**” 0.25 mile upstream.

Looper on the viewing platform at “**The Rise**“. She could see big trout swimming in the pool below.

Looking at “**The Rise**“, a large pool where the **Middle Popo Agie River** resurfaces from underground caverns. Water could be seen pouring into the pool from several points along the canyon wall. Photo looks downstream (NE).

If Lupe had been a bear, “The Rise” would have been quite a fascinating place! The Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces from underground caverns here. Lupe could see water pouring into a large pool from various points along the side of the canyon. The pool was full of big trout which couldn’t swim any farther upstream.

American Dingoes don’t fish much, though, so Lupe and SPHP went on to see “The Sinks”.

The Sinks was only 0.25 mile upstream. Here the Middle Popo Agie River disappears into a limestone cavern. Ordinarily the entire river goes underground. This morning the Middle Popo Agie was such a torrent that it entirely flooded the cavern. Plentiful overflow continued down a surface channel.

The Sinks. The entire **Middle Popo Agie River** normally completely disappears into this limestone cavern. However, the Middle Popo Agie was a torrent this morning. The cavern was full and plenty of water continued downstream in a surface overflow channel.

Lupe cools her paws in the overflow channel. During normal water levels this spot is high and dry. Not today!

The **Middle Fork of the Popo Agie River** was a torrent this morning. Here it is shortly before taking the plunge down into **The Sinks**.

After visiting The Sinks & The Rise, Lupe and SPHP continued up Sinks Canyon on Hwy 131. The highway eventually became Louis Lake Road, which wound very high up onto the upper SE side of the canyon. The view looking back down the canyon was impressive.

Looking back down **Sinks Canyon**. Hwy 131 can be seen below. Photo looks NNE.

After a tremendous elevation gain, Louis Lake Road finally started to level out shortly before passing by Frye Lake. A mile past Frye Lake was a R turn on USFS Road No. 302 to Worthen Meadow Reservoir. Most of No. 302 was fine, but parts of it were very rough for the G6. Nevertheless, the G6 made it through, and Lupe arrived at Worthen Meadow Reservoir.

Lupe at **Worthen Meadow Reservoir**. Photo looks E.

Well, this was it! Lupe would start for Wind River Peak from here. The Carolina Dog snapped at flies while SPHP got everything ready. The trek should take three days and two nights. Loop and SPHP shared some of the remaining fried chicken by the lake, then went in search of the TH on the W side of USFS Road No. 302. Soon Lupe was on Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (10:45 AM, 71°F).

This first part of the trail was wide and very well worn. Lupe traveled through an evergreen forest gradually gaining elevation. After 0.67 mile, she reached her first objective, Roaring Fork Lake.

After only 0.67 mile on the Stough Creek Lakes trail, Lupe reaches her first objective, **Roaring Fork Lake**. Photo looks SW.

There were people and a few dogs at Roaring Fork Lake. Most were hanging out at some big rocks along the N shore. Lupe went out on the rocks, too. The small lake was pretty. Lupe could see high cliffs and peaks with snow in the distance beyond the lake.

Nearby, Roaring Fork Creek flowed N out of the lake. The creek was deeper and much broader than SPHP expected, though the current looked gentle. Where did the trail cross the creek? SPHP had expected a bridge, but none was in sight. Maybe it was a little downstream from here?

Lupe and SPHP followed what seemed to be a trail N through the forest near the E side of the stream. The trail went a short distance, then vanished. No trail and no sign of a bridge anywhere. This couldn’t be right! Lupe returned to Roaring Fork Lake. SPHP talked to a few people. None knew where the trail went, or where there was a bridge. Roaring Fork Lake was as far as they intended to go.

When all else fails, consult the map! The map showed the trail crossing Roaring Fork Creek right at the N end of the lake. Hmm. Lupe returned to the stream where it exited Roaring Fork Lake. On the far shore, the trail was in plain sight. No bridge! That wasn’t good news at all. The current didn’t look strong, but Lupe had never forded anything like this before.

SPHP waded into the stream. Lupe followed. Soon she was swimming. A large rock protruded out of the water about 2/3 of the way across. The water was mid-thigh deep by the time SPHP reached the downstream side of the rock. Even though the current was gentle, Loop was having a hard time swimming against it. She was in danger of being swept downstream.

SPHP grabbed Lupe and plucked her out of Roaring Fork Creek, placing her on the big rock. SPHP continued on across, leaving the Carolina Dog stranded.

Stuck on the rock in **Roaring Fork Creek** where the stream leaves **Roaring Fork Lake**. Photo looks S.

Loop was safe on the rock, but she wasn’t sure what to do next. SPHP encouraged her to jump back into the river and swim. She hesitated. Carolina Dogs aren’t water dogs. Roaring Fork Creek was way over her head.

Lupe hesitates on the rock, uncertain if she wants to leap back into the river like SPHP was encouraging her to do, or not. Photo looks NE.

When Lupe made up her mind, she gave it her all. With a mighty leap she launched herself into Roaring Fork Creek. She sank below the surface, then popped up a moment later. She’d leapt so far she only had to swim a few feet before she could touch bottom and scramble to shore. Good girl!

Lupe shook herself off. SPHP continued on the trail. Soon Loop was leading the way. The creek had been refreshing.

It had also been worrisome. Lupe would have to cross other streams on the way to Wind River Peak. Weren’t there going to be any bridges? Eventually Loop would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River. She had seen what a torrent the Popo Agie was back at The Sinks. How on earth could she get across that without a bridge? The obvious answer was – she couldn’t.

The trail led SW through the forest gaining elevation more rapidly than before. 0.75 mile from Roaring Fork Lake, the trail leveled out as it emerged from the forest at the edge of a vast marsh. A wooden walkway went all the way across the marsh. That was reassuring. Lupe trotted across.

Crossing the marsh 0.75 mile beyond Roaring Fork Lake. The trail on the far side of the marsh would lead Loop toward the saddle seen on the L. Photo looks WNW.

Beyond the marsh, Trail No. 702 went W up a valley, gaining elevation at an increasing pace. Higher up, Lupe came to a long series of big switchbacks. It was warm out now, and just plain hot going uphill. Loop and SPHP stopped periodically for water and to catch breath. Never for long, though. Mosquitoes and flies were a constant bother. SPHP slathered on Deet, but it was only partially effective.

The trail became rockier. For the first time, Lupe started getting views back down the valley. She could see Frye Lake and Fossil Hill (9,089 ft.) beyond it.

Lupe by Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702. **Frye Lake** is in the distance on the L. **Fossil Hill** is beyond the lake. Photo looks ENE.

The long uphill grind seemed like it would never end. After Lupe had gone 2 miles from the marsh and gained 1,000 feet of elevation, it finally did. The American Dingo reached a saddle N of High Point 10,965. For the first time since the marsh, Lupe was out of the forest. The saddle was open meadow. Lupe could see!

What the Carolina Dog saw was a massive mountain dominating other high peaks nearby. Still 8 miles away as the crow flies, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) was unmistakable.

The mountain still looked far away. SPHP was already tired. It began to dawn on SPHP that Lupe’s journey to Wind River Peak and back was likely to take more than 3 days and 2 nights. Better go easy on the supplies, which were none too ample to begin with.

Still the view wasn’t entirely discouraging. Although there was a lot of snow on the mountain, there were bare patches, too. The terrain didn’t look bad either. If Lupe could get to Wind River Peak, it looked like she stood a good chance of reaching the summit.

The view of **Wind River Peak** wasn’t entirely discouraging. Yes, there was a lot of snow on the mountain, but there were bare patches, too. The terrain didn’t look bad, either. If Lupe could get to the mountain, SPHP believed she could get to the top. Photo looks W with maximum assistance from the telephoto lens.

Lupe continued on. Trail No. 702 started turning SW and headed back into the forest. Lupe still got occasional glimpses of Wind River Peak, but none so good as she’d had back at the saddle. She was now losing elevation. Slowly at first, but eventually more rapidly as she reached some switchbacks. The trail turned N and went around a hillside before dropping sharply.

More than a mile from the saddle, Lupe came to flatter terrain. The ground was damp many places, and the trail muddy. Orange colored ponds were scattered in the forest, and the mosquitoes were terrible. The trail turned SW again and Lupe regained a little elevation. The trail was increasingly muddy. In some places it was just a stream. SPHP kept expecting Lupe to come to an intersection, but none appeared.

SPHP started to believe Lupe had somehow missed a turn onto Trail No. 704. However, rushing water could be heard not too far ahead. May as well check that out before turning back. Lupe soon reached a rushing stream that poured out of a small lake nearby.

The stream was Stough Creek, though that wasn’t apparent at first. A couple hundred feet downstream, Lupe did come to a trail intersection. Good thing she hadn’t turned back! A sign didn’t give any trail numbers, but the trail to the L led straight to a bridge over Stough Creek. The sign said that trail went 3 miles to Stough Creek Lakes, so it had to be Trail No. 702 continuing onward.

The trail to the R was signed as leading in 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail. That had to be Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704, the way Lupe needed to go.

Only a couple hundred feet after coming upon **Stough Creek**, Lupe reaches the intersection of Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (L) with Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 (R). Photo looks SW.

From this intersection, Lupe needed to take Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 (seen beyond her) 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail. Photo looks W.

Lupe headed W on Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704. She was soon losing elevation steadily. The trail was never far from Stough Creek, which could always be heard in the forest. At one point the trail was right next to the creek. The stream looked even bigger here, reinforced by some major tributary.

Lupe at **Stough Creek** near the upper end of Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704. Photo looks S.

Only 0.25 mile from the trail intersection, the Stough Creek Basin Trail reached the bottom of a valley where Stough Creek flowed N. The trail vanished straight into the stream! No bridge!

Good grief! Another ford, and a far more worrisome one. The trail could be seen emerging from the stream on the far bank. However, the water was high and moving swiftly, completely filling the channel. It was hard to tell how deep it was. Stough Creek was already much larger than it had been farther upstream. It wasn’t as wide as Roaring Fork Creek had been, but looked much more dangerous. 60 or 70 feet downstream of the ford, Stough Creek roared over whitewater rapids.

The more SPHP stared at the ford, the more unnerving it appeared. Yes, it looked possible, but the current was clearly strong. One slip might bring disaster. Lupe would have to be carried over. If SPHP fell and dropped her, Loop would have only 5 or 10 seconds to escape before the current would sweep her into the whitewater to be battered mercilessly against the rocks.

SPHP thought of Edward Earl, drowned in the Jago River. Absolutely not! Lupe wasn’t going to attempt this ford with the water so high. Either there was a better place to cross, or Wind River Peak wasn’t happening.

Lupe and SPHP looked around. Immediately upstream, the valley widened out. Stough Creek went around several sharp bends. The water was still moving at a good clip, but the surface looked calmer, less threatening. Maybe one of those bends would be a better spot to try? Worth investigating.

Low bushes grew thickly on both sides of the creek. The ground they were on was all wet and marshy. Lupe and SPHP forced a way through to the edge of the stream. No deeper than Roaring Fork Creek here. The water moved fast, but wasn’t turbulent. No rapids nearby. If there was a slip, Lupe would have lots more time to escape the river.

Definitely a better situation. Not great, but should be OK. Maybe Lupe could even swim across? SPHP put her leash on so she wouldn’t get separated. SPHP waded into Stough Creek. Thigh deep again, but no more. Harder to move and maintain balance, though. The current was faster here than back at Roaring Fork Creek.

Lupe came swimming after SPHP. She was instantly swept downstream, but the leash held her. It wasn’t that far across, but the leash was choking her and making it hard for Loop to hold her head above water. SPHP was nearly across, but Loopster was struggling and needed help. SPHP stopped, pulled her in with the leash, and picked the cold, drenched Dingo up. A couple more steps, and Lupe leapt to safety.

SPHP waded out. Lupe was fine and shaking herself off. The crossing hadn’t been too bad. The whole ordeal had taken only 30 seconds. Still it was good to be across. The experience was a little too intense for comfort. SPHP vowed Lupe would find a better way across Stough Creek on the way back from Wind River Peak.

Lupe safely across **Stough Creek**. She crossed at this bend. Photo looks SE.

The **Stough Creek ford**. It was a straight shot 60 or 70 feet downstream from here to roaring whitewater rapids. Lupe has already crossed safely a little farther upstream. Photo looks E.

Just beyond the ford was another trail intersection. A look at the map showed that the trail to the R (No. 703) would follow Stough Creek downstream for miles to Three Forks Park. Lupe needed to stick with Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704), which went straight.

Another trail intersection was just beyond the Stough Creek ford. Lupe stayed to the L, continuing straight on Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704) seen beyond her.

The terrain was fairly flat for 0.25 mile as Lupe followed No. 704 W from the intersection. The trail then turned NW and started a steady decent. The forest here was full of snowdrifts 2-4 feet high. The trail vanished beneath them. Lupe and SPHP continued down the valley trying to guess where the trail had gone.

Lost among the snowdrifts trying to find the trail again.

After 15 minutes of wandering through the forest, Lupe had lost enough elevation so she was below most of the snow. The Carolina Dog found the trail again E of where SPHP had been looking. Back on track!

No. 704 continued losing elevation. It was an easy stroll for SPHP, and Lupe was having a great time! SPHP had promised to take her to higher mountains where there were squirrels, and there were squirrels aplenty in this forest. The Carolina Dog sprinted from tree to tree. The whole valley echoed with shrill Dingo barking. A glorious fun time, for sure!

Back on track again! A pattern seemed to be developing. The smaller the creek, the more likely the trail would have a bridge over it. Lupe needn’t have gotten her paws wet at this roaring cataract. However, none of the serious creek or river crossings seemed to have bridges.

Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to a small opening in the forest. From a big rock, she saw Wind River Peak once more for the first time in a while.

Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to this opening where she could see **Wind River Peak** for the first time in a while. Photo looks WNW.

**Wind River Peak** from a boulder close to Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks WNW.

Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 finally ended at another junction near the Middle Popo Agie River. Lupe had lost 1,000 feet of elevation since leaving the saddle where she’d first seen Wind River Peak. Now she would start regaining elevation going up the Middle Popo Agie River valley on Middle Fork Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park. Before heading for Tayo Park, she went to take a look at the Middle Popo Agie River.

Loopster reaches Middle Fork Trail No. 700. From here, she would be going up the **Middle Popo Agie River** valley to **Tayo Park** (L).

Looking down the **Middle Popo Agie River valley** from near the junction of Trails No. 704 & No. 700. Photo looks NNE.

A look down the **Middle Popo Agie River** shortly after starting up Trail No. 700 to **Tayo Park**. Photo looks NNE.

The sign at the trail junction said it was only 1.5 miles to Tayo Park. The moment of truth was coming. Lupe would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River to reach Tayo Park. There had better be a bridge! The river was simply too large and swift to consider fording.

Loop on her way up the **Middle Popo Agie River valley**. She would have to cross the river to get to **Tayo Park**. SPHP hoped there would be a bridge, or she wouldn’t be able to get across.

Following Trail No. 700 to **Tayo Park**.

After more than a mile on Trail No. 700, Lupe came to yet another trail intersection. She took a right on Trail No. 707. If No. 707 had a bridge across the Middle Popo Agie River, the American Dingo would arrive at Tayo Park in less than 0.33 mile.

After more than a mile following Trail No. 700 up the **Middle Popo Agie River valley**, Lupe reaches a R turn onto Trail No. 707, which would soon bring her to **Tayo Park**.

Once she was on Trail No. 707, Loopster didn’t have far to go to reach the point where the trail crossed the Middle Popo Agie. She was soon there. Lupe had come miles and miles from Worthen Meadow. The view was most disheartening.

Trail No. 707 disappeared into a shallow lake that filled the river valley. It was a good 80 feet through the water just to reach ripples that showed where the channel of the Middle Popo Agie River was. No bridge. No way forward.

Trail No. 707 to **Tayo Park** disappears into a shallow lake well before reaching the **Middle Popo Agie River**. The river was at flood stage and way out of its banks. No bridge. No way across. Photo looks WNW.

All this way, and no bridge! The river was at flood stage, way out of its banks. SPHP stared across the shallow lake toward the ford. Wade 80 or 100 feet out there, just to reach the river channel? No! No telling how deep or fast the water was over there. It may look fairly calm, but a tremendous volume of water was flowing by. Lupe had seen that all the way up here. The current would be plenty strong.

Lupe and SPHP scouted along the dry land a little farther upstream. The American Dingo had a lovely view of a mountain beyond the valley, but the situation wasn’t really any different. Despair set in. Clearly it would be foolish to attempt this ford. Had Lupe met with defeat? Yeah, this was the picture of defeat alright.

The view farther up the **Middle Popo Agie River valley**. Lupe saw a lovely mountain, but the situation down in the flooded river valley was still the same. Photo looks SW.

Maybe the view of this mountain was as close as Lupe was going to get to **Wind River Peak**? Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Farther upstream, a steady roar came from across the river valley. Lupe could see Tayo Creek rushing down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River. That started SPHP thinking.

Lupe near the end of the day in the **Middle Popo Agie River valley**. She wasn’t far from **Tayo Park**, but without a way to get there.

It was evening. It had been a long, long day. The mosquitoes were awful. On a hillside near the river, there was a nice spot to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house” beneath some trees. SPHP assembled it as rapidly as possible and threw everything inside. Loop came in, too. Peace, at last from those infernal bugs!

Loop had hardly eaten anything all day. SPHP split the last of the fried chicken with her. She got half a can of Alpo, and a large helping of Taste of the Wild, too. Meanwhile, SPHP studied the Bridger-Teton national forest map. It showed few details. The original plan had called for Loop to either be at Tayo Lake or Deep Creek Lakes this evening. Not going to happen. Both were still a long way away. To get to either, Lupe needed to get across the river to Tayo Park.

Slowly, though, an idea was growing.

I’m exhausted. C’mon Loop, let’s get some sleep. We’re staying here tonight. No sense in doing anything rash. At least, we’ve got a plan. It’s a long, long shot, but might work. We’ll see how feasible it is in the morning.