Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Wind River Range, Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana
Wow! Was that it? SPHP suspected it was. Although the G6 said it was 97°F outside, Lupe was riding in air-conditioned comfort. She was still E of Shoshoni on Hwy 20/26 in central Wyoming. Far to the SW, the SE end of the fabulous Wind River range had come into view.
The sight of a towering white peak looming above all the others was faintly unsettling even from here. Shimmering through the desert heat, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) and the surrounding high mountains had far more snow on them than SPHP had expected. So much snow up there more than a week into July? Maybe Lupe didn’t stand a chance.
The day had started off well enough. Right away the American Dingo knew something was up. For hours she’d followed SPHP’s every footstep, yipping and prancing anxiously. Finally, just as she was losing hope, everything was ready. Into the G6! Suddenly Lupe was setting off on her 2nd Dingo Vacation of the summer of 2017 (11:09 AM)!
Only 20 days ago, after the fiasco at Jack Squirrel Peak (8,942 ft.) in the Laramie Mountains at the end of her previous Dingo Vacation, SPHP had promised to take Lupe to even higher mountains where she would find plenty of squirrels. Loop hadn’t dared to hope SPHP would keep that promise so soon. Once she reached Wyoming, though, she knew good things were in store. Happy days ahead!
By 6:00 PM, Lupe reached Lander at the foot of the Wind River Range. At the S end of 3rd Street, Lupe found Lander’s sweet city park by the Middle Popo Agie River. Saturday night, but even so, SPHP was astonished at how busy it was! The place was packed with people, kids and dogs. A DJ was playing music. Free camping is allowed! Tents and RV’s were all over the place. The park felt like a festival was in progress.
Yeah, this was going to be fun! Lupe would spend the night here, too. Nearby, a bridge arched over the Middle Popo Agie River. On the other side was another, less-developed park. It would be quieter over there. Loop and SPHP went over the bridge, then took a walk along a mowed path to the bank of the river. It was still hot out. The Carolina Dog promptly got in the Middle Popo Agie to cool off and get a drink.
Lupe had never been to Lander before, so an evening tour of the town was in order. Looper was particularly interested in a couple of statues that caught her imagination.
After seeing some of Lander’s sights, SPHP ran in to Safeway to buy some fried chicken for dinner. Then it was back to the city park for the rest of the evening. SPHP set up Lupe’s “tiny house” for her. Loop feasted on chicken, then spent the rest of the evening exploring and playing. When the sun went down, the music stopped and the party was over. Lupe was still excited. It took a while for SPHP to persuade her to hit the hay.
The next morning, the American Dingo rose bright and early. Time for action! Today Lupe would start for fabulous Wind River Peak!
At the S end of 5th Street, SPHP drove out of Lander on Hwy 131. Lupe was soon approaching Sinks Canyon. She had time to get out and take a look around Sinks Canyon State Park. SPHP parked the G6 at a pullout near “The Rise”.
If Lupe had been a bear, “The Rise” would have been quite a fascinating place! The Middle Popo Agie River resurfaces from underground caverns here. Lupe could see water pouring into a large pool from various points along the side of the canyon. The pool was full of big trout which couldn’t swim any farther upstream.
American Dingoes don’t fish much, though, so Lupe and SPHP went on to see “The Sinks”.
The Sinks was only 0.25 mile upstream. Here the Middle Popo Agie River disappears into a limestone cavern. Ordinarily the entire river goes underground. This morning the Middle Popo Agie was such a torrent that it entirely flooded the cavern. Plentiful overflow continued down a surface channel.
After visiting The Sinks & The Rise, Lupe and SPHP continued up Sinks Canyon on Hwy 131. The highway eventually became Louis Lake Road, which wound very high up onto the upper SE side of the canyon. The view looking back down the canyon was impressive.
After a tremendous elevation gain, Louis Lake Road finally started to level out shortly before passing by Frye Lake. A mile past Frye Lake was a R turn on USFS Road No. 302 to Worthen Meadow Reservoir. Most of No. 302 was fine, but parts of it were very rough for the G6. Nevertheless, the G6 made it through, and Lupe arrived at Worthen Meadow Reservoir.
Well, this was it! Lupe would start for Wind River Peak from here. The Carolina Dog snapped at flies while SPHP got everything ready. The trek should take three days and two nights. Loop and SPHP shared some of the remaining fried chicken by the lake, then went in search of the TH on the W side of USFS Road No. 302. Soon Lupe was on Stough Creek Lakes Trail No. 702 (10:45 AM, 71°F).
This first part of the trail was wide and very well worn. Lupe traveled through an evergreen forest gradually gaining elevation. After 0.67 mile, she reached her first objective, Roaring Fork Lake.
There were people and a few dogs at Roaring Fork Lake. Most were hanging out at some big rocks along the N shore. Lupe went out on the rocks, too. The small lake was pretty. Lupe could see high cliffs and peaks with snow in the distance beyond the lake.
Nearby, Roaring Fork Creek flowed N out of the lake. The creek was deeper and much broader than SPHP expected, though the current looked gentle. Where did the trail cross the creek? SPHP had expected a bridge, but none was in sight. Maybe it was a little downstream from here?
Lupe and SPHP followed what seemed to be a trail N through the forest near the E side of the stream. The trail went a short distance, then vanished. No trail and no sign of a bridge anywhere. This couldn’t be right! Lupe returned to Roaring Fork Lake. SPHP talked to a few people. None knew where the trail went, or where there was a bridge. Roaring Fork Lake was as far as they intended to go.
When all else fails, consult the map! The map showed the trail crossing Roaring Fork Creek right at the N end of the lake. Hmm. Lupe returned to the stream where it exited Roaring Fork Lake. On the far shore, the trail was in plain sight. No bridge! That wasn’t good news at all. The current didn’t look strong, but Lupe had never forded anything like this before.
SPHP waded into the stream. Lupe followed. Soon she was swimming. A large rock protruded out of the water about 2/3 of the way across. The water was mid-thigh deep by the time SPHP reached the downstream side of the rock. Even though the current was gentle, Loop was having a hard time swimming against it. She was in danger of being swept downstream.
SPHP grabbed Lupe and plucked her out of Roaring Fork Creek, placing her on the big rock. SPHP continued on across, leaving the Carolina Dog stranded.
Loop was safe on the rock, but she wasn’t sure what to do next. SPHP encouraged her to jump back into the river and swim. She hesitated. Carolina Dogs aren’t water dogs. Roaring Fork Creek was way over her head.
When Lupe made up her mind, she gave it her all. With a mighty leap she launched herself into Roaring Fork Creek. She sank below the surface, then popped up a moment later. She’d leapt so far she only had to swim a few feet before she could touch bottom and scramble to shore. Good girl!
Lupe shook herself off. SPHP continued on the trail. Soon Loop was leading the way. The creek had been refreshing.
It had also been worrisome. Lupe would have to cross other streams on the way to Wind River Peak. Weren’t there going to be any bridges? Eventually Loop would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River. She had seen what a torrent the Popo Agie was back at The Sinks. How on earth could she get across that without a bridge? The obvious answer was – she couldn’t.
The trail led SW through the forest gaining elevation more rapidly than before. 0.75 mile from Roaring Fork Lake, the trail leveled out as it emerged from the forest at the edge of a vast marsh. A wooden walkway went all the way across the marsh. That was reassuring. Lupe trotted across.
Beyond the marsh, Trail No. 702 went W up a valley, gaining elevation at an increasing pace. Higher up, Lupe came to a long series of big switchbacks. It was warm out now, and just plain hot going uphill. Loop and SPHP stopped periodically for water and to catch breath. Never for long, though. Mosquitoes and flies were a constant bother. SPHP slathered on Deet, but it was only partially effective.
The trail became rockier. For the first time, Lupe started getting views back down the valley. She could see Frye Lake and Fossil Hill (9,089 ft.) beyond it.
The long uphill grind seemed like it would never end. After Lupe had gone 2 miles from the marsh and gained 1,000 feet of elevation, it finally did. The American Dingo reached a saddle N of High Point 10,965. For the first time since the marsh, Lupe was out of the forest. The saddle was open meadow. Lupe could see!
What the Carolina Dog saw was a massive mountain dominating other high peaks nearby. Still 8 miles away as the crow flies, Wind River Peak (13,192 ft.) was unmistakable.
The mountain still looked far away. SPHP was already tired. It began to dawn on SPHP that Lupe’s journey to Wind River Peak and back was likely to take more than 3 days and 2 nights. Better go easy on the supplies, which were none too ample to begin with.
Still the view wasn’t entirely discouraging. Although there was a lot of snow on the mountain, there were bare patches, too. The terrain didn’t look bad either. If Lupe could get to Wind River Peak, it looked like she stood a good chance of reaching the summit.
Lupe continued on. Trail No. 702 started turning SW and headed back into the forest. Lupe still got occasional glimpses of Wind River Peak, but none so good as she’d had back at the saddle. She was now losing elevation. Slowly at first, but eventually more rapidly as she reached some switchbacks. The trail turned N and went around a hillside before dropping sharply.
More than a mile from the saddle, Lupe came to flatter terrain. The ground was damp many places, and the trail muddy. Orange colored ponds were scattered in the forest, and the mosquitoes were terrible. The trail turned SW again and Lupe regained a little elevation. The trail was increasingly muddy. In some places it was just a stream. SPHP kept expecting Lupe to come to an intersection, but none appeared.
SPHP started to believe Lupe had somehow missed a turn onto Trail No. 704. However, rushing water could be heard not too far ahead. May as well check that out before turning back. Lupe soon reached a rushing stream that poured out of a small lake nearby.
The stream was Stough Creek, though that wasn’t apparent at first. A couple hundred feet downstream, Lupe did come to a trail intersection. Good thing she hadn’t turned back! A sign didn’t give any trail numbers, but the trail to the L led straight to a bridge over Stough Creek. The sign said that trail went 3 miles to Stough Creek Lakes, so it had to be Trail No. 702 continuing onward.
The trail to the R was signed as leading in 2 miles to the Middle Fork Trail. That had to be Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704, the way Lupe needed to go.
Lupe headed W on Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704. She was soon losing elevation steadily. The trail was never far from Stough Creek, which could always be heard in the forest. At one point the trail was right next to the creek. The stream looked even bigger here, reinforced by some major tributary.
Only 0.25 mile from the trail intersection, the Stough Creek Basin Trail reached the bottom of a valley where Stough Creek flowed N. The trail vanished straight into the stream! No bridge!
Good grief! Another ford, and a far more worrisome one. The trail could be seen emerging from the stream on the far bank. However, the water was high and moving swiftly, completely filling the channel. It was hard to tell how deep it was. Stough Creek was already much larger than it had been farther upstream. It wasn’t as wide as Roaring Fork Creek had been, but looked much more dangerous. 60 or 70 feet downstream of the ford, Stough Creek roared over whitewater rapids.
The more SPHP stared at the ford, the more unnerving it appeared. Yes, it looked possible, but the current was clearly strong. One slip might bring disaster. Lupe would have to be carried over. If SPHP fell and dropped her, Loop would have only 5 or 10 seconds to escape before the current would sweep her into the whitewater to be battered mercilessly against the rocks.
SPHP thought of Edward Earl, drowned in the Jago River. Absolutely not! Lupe wasn’t going to attempt this ford with the water so high. Either there was a better place to cross, or Wind River Peak wasn’t happening.
Lupe and SPHP looked around. Immediately upstream, the valley widened out. Stough Creek went around several sharp bends. The water was still moving at a good clip, but the surface looked calmer, less threatening. Maybe one of those bends would be a better spot to try? Worth investigating.
Low bushes grew thickly on both sides of the creek. The ground they were on was all wet and marshy. Lupe and SPHP forced a way through to the edge of the stream. No deeper than Roaring Fork Creek here. The water moved fast, but wasn’t turbulent. No rapids nearby. If there was a slip, Lupe would have lots more time to escape the river.
Definitely a better situation. Not great, but should be OK. Maybe Lupe could even swim across? SPHP put her leash on so she wouldn’t get separated. SPHP waded into Stough Creek. Thigh deep again, but no more. Harder to move and maintain balance, though. The current was faster here than back at Roaring Fork Creek.
Lupe came swimming after SPHP. She was instantly swept downstream, but the leash held her. It wasn’t that far across, but the leash was choking her and making it hard for Loop to hold her head above water. SPHP was nearly across, but Loopster was struggling and needed help. SPHP stopped, pulled her in with the leash, and picked the cold, drenched Dingo up. A couple more steps, and Lupe leapt to safety.
SPHP waded out. Lupe was fine and shaking herself off. The crossing hadn’t been too bad. The whole ordeal had taken only 30 seconds. Still it was good to be across. The experience was a little too intense for comfort. SPHP vowed Lupe would find a better way across Stough Creek on the way back from Wind River Peak.
Just beyond the ford was another trail intersection. A look at the map showed that the trail to the R (No. 703) would follow Stough Creek downstream for miles to Three Forks Park. Lupe needed to stick with Stough Creek Basin Trail (No. 704), which went straight.
The terrain was fairly flat for 0.25 mile as Lupe followed No. 704 W from the intersection. The trail then turned NW and started a steady decent. The forest here was full of snowdrifts 2-4 feet high. The trail vanished beneath them. Lupe and SPHP continued down the valley trying to guess where the trail had gone.
After 15 minutes of wandering through the forest, Lupe had lost enough elevation so she was below most of the snow. The Carolina Dog found the trail again E of where SPHP had been looking. Back on track!
No. 704 continued losing elevation. It was an easy stroll for SPHP, and Lupe was having a great time! SPHP had promised to take her to higher mountains where there were squirrels, and there were squirrels aplenty in this forest. The Carolina Dog sprinted from tree to tree. The whole valley echoed with shrill Dingo barking. A glorious fun time, for sure!
Shortly after finding the trail again, Lupe came to a small opening in the forest. From a big rock, she saw Wind River Peak once more for the first time in a while.
Stough Creek Basin Trail No. 704 finally ended at another junction near the Middle Popo Agie River. Lupe had lost 1,000 feet of elevation since leaving the saddle where she’d first seen Wind River Peak. Now she would start regaining elevation going up the Middle Popo Agie River valley on Middle Fork Trail No. 700 to Tayo Park. Before heading for Tayo Park, she went to take a look at the Middle Popo Agie River.
The sign at the trail junction said it was only 1.5 miles to Tayo Park. The moment of truth was coming. Lupe would have to cross the Middle Popo Agie River to reach Tayo Park. There had better be a bridge! The river was simply too large and swift to consider fording.
After more than a mile on Trail No. 700, Lupe came to yet another trail intersection. She took a right on Trail No. 707. If No. 707 had a bridge across the Middle Popo Agie River, the American Dingo would arrive at Tayo Park in less than 0.33 mile.
Once she was on Trail No. 707, Loopster didn’t have far to go to reach the point where the trail crossed the Middle Popo Agie. She was soon there. Lupe had come miles and miles from Worthen Meadow. The view was most disheartening.
Trail No. 707 disappeared into a shallow lake that filled the river valley. It was a good 80 feet through the water just to reach ripples that showed where the channel of the Middle Popo Agie River was. No bridge. No way forward.
All this way, and no bridge! The river was at flood stage, way out of its banks. SPHP stared across the shallow lake toward the ford. Wade 80 or 100 feet out there, just to reach the river channel? No! No telling how deep or fast the water was over there. It may look fairly calm, but a tremendous volume of water was flowing by. Lupe had seen that all the way up here. The current would be plenty strong.
Lupe and SPHP scouted along the dry land a little farther upstream. The American Dingo had a lovely view of a mountain beyond the valley, but the situation wasn’t really any different. Despair set in. Clearly it would be foolish to attempt this ford. Had Lupe met with defeat? Yeah, this was the picture of defeat alright.
Farther upstream, a steady roar came from across the river valley. Lupe could see Tayo Creek rushing down a hillside to join forces with the Middle Popo Agie River. That started SPHP thinking.
It was evening. It had been a long, long day. The mosquitoes were awful. On a hillside near the river, there was a nice spot to pitch Lupe’s “tiny house” beneath some trees. SPHP assembled it as rapidly as possible and threw everything inside. Loop came in, too. Peace, at last from those infernal bugs!
Loop had hardly eaten anything all day. SPHP split the last of the fried chicken with her. She got half a can of Alpo, and a large helping of Taste of the Wild, too. Meanwhile, SPHP studied the Bridger-Teton national forest map. It showed few details. The original plan had called for Loop to either be at Tayo Lake or Deep Creek Lakes this evening. Not going to happen. Both were still a long way away. To get to either, Lupe needed to get across the river to Tayo Park.
Slowly, though, an idea was growing.
I’m exhausted. C’mon Loop, let’s get some sleep. We’re staying here tonight. No sense in doing anything rash. At least, we’ve got a plan. It’s a long, long shot, but might work. We’ll see how feasible it is in the morning.
Related Links:
Wind River Peak, Wyoming – Part 2: Divide & Conquer, Tayo Park to Tayo Lake (7-10-17)
Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Wind River Range in Wyoming & Select Peaks in Montana Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.