2016 Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska – Page 5 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Wedge & The Ramp, Chugach State Park, Alaska (8-29-16)

Day 31 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Glenn Alps Trailhead on the SE edge of Anchorage was a busy place. (11:52 AM, 55°F) It was certainly the first trailhead Lupe had ever been to where SPHP could pay the $5.00 parking fee by credit card. Spiffy. So uptown and 21st century.

Up town wasn’t where Lupe wanted to be. She was looking forward to adventures up mountain in spectacular Chugach State Park! Lupe and SPHP left the parking lot heading for the Powerline Trail. Turned out there was a closer, lower parking lot. Learn something new every day.

Lupe had a beautiful sunny day for her adventures. Not so long ago, SPHP had almost despaired of ever seeing the sun in S Alaska. Twice Lupe had been on the verge of leaving the state. However, she wound up spending the last few days exploring and adventuring in brilliant sunshine out on the Kenai Peninsula. A high pressure system must have finally chased the gloom away from the Anchorage area, too.

The Powerline Trail turned out to be an old road. Lupe took it SE toward Powerline Pass. The trail was busy with people jogging and biking. Mountains were in view ahead. From almost the very start, Lupe could see The Wedge (4,660 ft.), her first peakbagging goal, in the distance. For Alaska, it looked like an easy, not too inspiring climb.

Lupe on the Powerline Trail. The Wedge is already in view in the distance on the L. Photo looks SE.

To be honest, both Lupe and SPHP found the Powerline Trail rather dull. Too sunny, too warm, too busy, too low down, and far from the mountains. A long, boring trudge on a dirt road. It’s easy to get spoiled in Alaska! Hopefully the experience would improve.

It did. Gradually, the mountain views seemed less distant. To get to the valley leading to the saddle between The Wedge and The Ramp, Lupe had to leave the Powerline Trail after a couple of miles. A smaller side trail led down to a footbridge across the South Fork of Campbell Creek. As soon as Lupe left the Powerline Trail behind, suddenly everything seemed better and more beautiful.

The views steadily improved as Lupe progressed along the Powerline Trail. Lupe’s 2nd peakbagging objective, The Ramp, is the sharp, pointy peak seen L of Center. Photo looks E.

Lupe at the start of the side trail, about to leave the Powerline Trail behind. The nice footbridge across the South Fork of Campbell Creek is just ahead. Photo looks E.

Hot paws cool down in the refreshing South Fork of Campbell Creek. Photo looks E.

Even though Lupe was still in the same valley, as soon as she left the Powerline Trail, everything seemed more beautiful. Photo looks SE up the South Fork of Campbell Creek toward Powerline Pass.

After crossing the South Fork of Campbell Creek, the side trail went NE up a moderately steep slope. The trail entered a forest of stunted conifers. A couple of women came down the trail toward Lupe. They had seen a moose and calf only a little farther up, right on the trail!

Lupe and SPHP proceeded slowly, cautiously. Lupe saw the mama moose, but only got a glimpse of the calf. The moose were no longer on the trail, having wandered off into the forest. Lupe and SPHP got by them at a good distance without incident. Lupe was very interested in those moose! She was a good Dingo, though, and never barked.

Once past the moose, Lupe kept climbing through the forest on the trail. By the time the trail left the forest, it had deteriorated considerably. Only a simple single track path remained. Ahead to the ESE, Lupe now had a clear view of the big saddle between The Wedge and The Ramp. The saddle was still a couple miles away.

After emerging from Moose Forest, Lupe had a great view of the saddle between The Ramp (L) and The Wedge (R). Photo looks SE.

The trail crossed some fairly level terrain heading toward the valley leading to the saddle. Lupe arrived at a tributary of the South Fork of Campbell Creek. The trail could be seen on the other side, but there was no bridge, or even any decent arrangement of stepping stones across the creek. No problem for Lupe, but SPHP would have liked to avoid getting wet feet.

Lupe arrives at the tributary of the South Fork of Campbell Creek near the start of the long valley leading to the saddle between The Wedge & The Ramp. Photo looks NE.

In the end, even though the stream wasn’t all that big, SPHP found no way across in this area without simply fording it. Squish, squish. Puppy, ho! Onward! Lupe climbed up the embankment on the far side of the creek and kept going.

It would have been better if SPHP had gone farther upstream before crossing. The trail vanished. Lupe soon found herself in boggy terrain on the S side of another small tributary. Higher, drier ground was over on the N side, but it took a while to find a reasonably dry way to get there.

Once on the higher ground N of the boggy creek, Lupe quickly found a trail again. Lupe and SPHP followed it toward the big saddle. For quite a long way, Lupe could run down to the creek for a drink any time she wanted. She enjoyed availing herself of this opportunity at regular intervals.

Lupe down in the clear rushing tributary. For quite a distance, she was able to cool off or get a drink out of this creek any time she wanted.

Colorful foliage made Lupe’s trek up the valley to the saddle bright and beautiful.

Farther up the valley, the tributary stream wasn’t so boggy. Here Lupe enjoys the stream below a series of small waterfalls.

As Lupe continued up the valley, the trail became intermittent. In fact, there seemed to be multiple trails, but none of them was a firmly established dominant route. All started and stopped in unpredictable fashion. It hardly mattered. Lupe could always see the big saddle up ahead, and kept going toward it.

Eventually, the stream reduced to a trickle, then disappeared. Lupe was getting close to the saddle between The Wedge & The Ramp. She could have chosen to climb either mountain first, but went for The Wedge (4,660 ft.). It wasn’t as high, and looked like the easiest climb.

Higher up in the valley, the stream disappeared. Lupe was getting closer to The Wedge, which she would try to climb first. Photo looks SSE.

Lupe got up on a big rounded ridge that swept down into the valley from the saddle. On the other side of the ridge, she could see a large snowbank. Except for tiny tundra plants, nearly all vegetation disappeared as Lupe made the final climb up the rounded ridge to the saddle.

Lupe reaches the rounded ridge sweeping down from the saddle. Very little vegetation remained by the time Lupe reached this point. She followed the rounded ridgeline up to the saddle, then turned SW to complete her ascent of The Wedge. Photo looks SE.

Lupe followed the rounded ridgeline all the way up to the saddle. The saddle was a very broad, rounded area as well. Lupe turned SW to ascend The Wedge. Although The Wedge had looked like an easy climb from way back down on the Powerline Trail, it was steeper than expected. Lupe roamed the wide slope at will, as SPHP trudged slowly higher.

The climb was steep, but not the least bit scary. The slope was covered with small rocks and plants. For the most part, it was all fairly stable. Lupe didn’t come to any trail going up, but she didn’t need to. Staying far from the cliffs was easy. Lupe could take any route she desired up the huge, broad slope.

It seemed like a long climb, but the terrain finally started to level out. Lupe reached The Wedge’s summit ridge near the NE end. The true summit wasn’t far away at a rocky prominence. While SPHP took a look an initial look around at the tremendous views, Lupe relaxed.

Lupe relaxes on The Wedge! The true summit is at the rocky prominence seen beyond her. The summit ridge went hundreds of feet farther beyond it. Photo looks WSW.

My, how those views had improved since Lupe started out way back down on the Powerline Trail!

The wide valley Lupe traveled through on her way to The Wedge is seen on the R. The first mountain beyond her (the one casting the dark shadow) is High Point 4160. The hill in sunlight beyond High Point 4160 is **Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.)** near Anchorage. Cook Inlet and Anchorage are also in view. Photo looks WNW.

**O’Malley Peak (5,150 ft.)** from **The Wedge**. Photo looks NNW.

If Lupe had stayed on the Powerline Trail, she would have wound up at Powerline Pass(L). The small lake is Green Lake. **Homicide Peak (4,660 ft.)** is visible on the L beyond Powerline Pass. **North Suicide Peak (5,065 ft.)** appears above the ridgeline beyond Green Lake. **South Suicide Peak (5,005 ft.)** is to its R. Photo looks S.

Lupe’s next peakbagging destination, The Ramp, is seen here on the L. Part of the big saddle between The Wedge & The Ramp is seen in the lower foreground. Photo looks NE.

O’Malley Peak (Center) is the high point along the far ridge. Photo looks NNW.

The views of the nearby peaks were impressive, but far toward the E & SE horizons, Lupe could see even higher mountains and big snowfields. The camera’s telephoto lens provided a better look at what was out there.

Wow! What’s that white monster peering over from behind the snowfield on the L? SPHP had no idea what peak that was. Photo looks E using the telephoto lens.

Looking S or SE toward fabulous remote mountains.

Naturally, Lupe went over to the true summit of The Wedge to claim her peakbagging success.

Lupe sits on the true summit of The Wedge. The Ramp is in view beyond her. Photo looks NE.

A lone Carolina Dog stands astride the summit of The Wedge. Her next destination, The Ramp, is seen on the L. Photo looks ENE.

After half an hour spent on The Wedge, Lupe started her journey back down to the big saddle leading to The Ramp. She stayed farther to the E than where she’d come up, hoping to see Ship Lake, which hadn’t been visible from the summit of The Wedge. As she lost elevation, Ship Lake came into view.

Staying farther E coming down The Wedge, Lupe came to an amazing view of Ship Lake. Lupe is the tiny Dingo on the R. Photo looks ESE.

Ship Lake from the upper ENE slopes of The Wedge. **Avalanche Mountain (5,000 ft.)** (R) towers above the lake. Photo looks ESE.

Lupe continued on down toward the saddle leading to The Ramp (5,240 feet). The Ramp is nearly 600 feet higher than The Wedge, and looked considerably steeper from afar. The upper slopes were much more rugged, and the top of the mountain comes nearly to a point. Lupe couldn’t expect any nice big summit area to relax on at The Ramp!

Looking at the summit of The Ramp through the telephoto lens. Lupe would try climbing up near the center of this photo a little to the L of all the steep ragged ridges. Photo looks NE.

SPHP started wondering if Lupe could even make it to the top of The Ramp? Meaning, of course, SPHP wondered if SPHP could make it to the top! The first part of the climb wouldn’t be bad, but the closer Lupe got to The Ramp, the more concerned SPHP became.

Meanwhile, Lupe was leaving Ship Lake and The Wedge farther and farther behind as she progressed across the saddle and started up The Ramp.

Looking back across the saddle toward The Wedge from near the start of Lupe’s climb up The Ramp. Ship Lake is out of sight far down the slope to the L. Photo looks SW.

As Lupe started climbing The Ramp, Ship Lake and Avalanche Mountain receded behind her. Photo looks SSE.

For quite a long way, climbing The Ramp wasn’t any harder or steeper than climbing The Wedge had been. However, the way up was slowly getting progressively steeper. Lupe had already regained all of the elevation she’d lost going down from The Wedge and more, when suddenly a woman was in view above. She was coming down toward Lupe.

Lupe and SPHP soon met up with her. She had made it to the summit of The Ramp, and advised staying near the closest ragged, rocky ridgeline to the E where there was sort of an intermittent trail. Near the very top, though, Lupe should swing around to complete her climb along the W ridge. Going back down, Lupe could either return to the saddle or go down the W ridge, slowly turning SW into the valley.

SPHP thanked her for the advice, and she was gone. She was the only person Lupe saw all day after the two women who had seen the moose early on. The woman did seem to know what she’d been talking about, and apparently she’d made it to the top. Per her advice, Lupe and SPHP angled over to the ragged ridgeline.

The woman was right. An intermittent trail went up the ragged ridge. Lupe had less loose rock to contend with. There were also some fearsome drops only a few feet away on the E side of the ridge. Lupe and SPHP kept climbing. Lupe was getting there! More and more of The Ramp was down below. Less and less remained above.

Nearing the summit of The Ramp. Lupe made the last part of this climb along the W ridge, seen on the L. Photo looks N.

As the woman had advised, and the terrain virtually dictated, Lupe gained much of the last 60 feet of elevation by moving over to the W ridge and climbing up from that direction. Very close to the top, Lupe traversed a narrow 30 foot long level ledge toward the SE, then scrambled 10 feet almost straight up to a small grassy area.

The narrow ledge had way more exposure than Lupe and SPHP are used to, but SPHP had good hand and foot holds all the way. Lupe seemed unconcerned. She had no problem crossing the ledge. She scrambled up to the grassy area as easily as if she were only part Dingo, with a good dose of mountain goat in her.

At the little grassy area, Lupe was only 15 – 20 feet below the summit. After a brief pause, Lupe and SPHP finished the climb. The last 10 feet were very steep, but once again, there were good hand and foot holds. Lupe managed to get all the way up to sit a only a foot or two below the tops of the highest rocks at the summit of The Ramp.

SPHP wouldn’t let Lupe go up that last foot or two. Huge exposure was only a couple feet away to the N. This was it. Close enough for Dingo work! Lupe was claiming her peakbagging success! With one hand, SPHP clung to the rocks, while operating the camera with the other.

Lupe perches next to the very highest rocks of The Ramp. Want to know how large the summit area was? You’re looking at it! Photo looks E.

Part bird, part mountain goat, part Dingo! Lupe sits on top of The Ramp with incredible views in every direction. Photo looks SE.

Lupe at the top of The Ramp. Photo looks ESE.

*Yeah, SPHP, there’s a helluva view from up here, but you know what? So far, not a squirrel in sight!*

Of course, the views were amazing from The Wedge. In fact, they were dizzying. SPHP clung to the rocks, taking pictures. At SPHP’s bidding, Lupe got down off the summit. She retreated to a less precarious position close to the grassy area where she could rest comfortably, while still enjoying the stupendous view. SPHP soon joined her. Wow, what an incredible place!

**O’Malley Peak (5,150 ft.)**(L of Center), **Hidden Peak (5,105 ft.)**(Center), and **Wolverine Peak** **(4,491 ft.)**(R) from **The Ramp (5,240 ft.)**. Photo looks NW.

Looking down on some of the Williwaw Lakes in the valley of the Middle Fork of Campbell Creek. Wolverine Peak is on the L. **Mount Elliot (4,710 ft.)** is the closest mountain beyond the lakes. The Tanaina Peaks and Tikishla Peak are along the big ridge beyond Mount Elliot. Photo looks N.

Ship Lake and Avalanche Mountain from the summit of The Ramp. The Suicide Peaks are visible on the R. Photo looks S.

The Wedge(L) looks much smaller from the summit of The Ramp. The broad valley seen below is the one Lupe came up on her way to The Wedge after leaving the Powerline Trail. Photo looks SW.

O’Malley Peak using the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

Some of the Williwaw Lakes using the telephoto lens. Photo looks N.

Lupe chillin’ a little below the summit. She has a view of part of Ship Lake and Avalanche Mountain on the L. The Suicide Peaks are straight up from her head. On the R is the saddle she crossed coming here from The Wedge. Photo looks S.

After 15 minutes doing nothing other than enjoying the views together, Lupe and SPHP started down. Once safely past the 10 foot down climb and 30 foot ledge, SPHP felt more relaxed about the situation. A long pleasant evening trek down the mountain ensued. Lupe took the alternate route down along the W ridge, eventually dropping well below it on her way to the valley.

Going down the W ridge line. O’Malley Peak on the R. Photo looks WNW.

The route stayed steep and rocky for a long way. Slowly the slope decreased. Tundra vegetation started taking over, and the way became less rocky. For Lupe, this was the best part of the entire excursion. For a long time, she ran free over great distances to her heart’s content. The tundra glowed with color in the evening light. The air was fresh and cool. Lupe was in American Dingo paradise!

The Wedge as seen from the N side of the broad valley. Photo looks S.

*Only one question. Where do they keep the squirrels around here? I’ve searched everywhere!*

Of course, Lupe always remembered to come running back to SPHP at frequent intervals, even though it was a chore having to constantly regain all the elevation she’d just lost.

Lupe comes running back to check on slowpoke, SPHP. Lupe’s route up The Wedge earlier in the day is in view here. She started up the low ridge at center, following it all the way to the L, then curving back up toward the R to reach the top. Photo looks S.

Lupe and SPHP saw no one in the broad valley. The return trip was a glorious, peaceful, happy time.

SPHP has no idea what sort of plant these are, but they were soft and beautiful. They decorated the tundra in scattered clumps.

The wonderful, amazing Carolina Dog! She seemed fairly satisfied with the way this adventure turned out!

By staying farther N in the valley, Lupe was able to avoid most of the boggy terrain lower down. SPHP even found a way over the tributary of the South Fork of Campbell Creek without having to ford it again. By the time Lupe was getting close to the Powerline Trail again, the sun was disappearing behind the mountains far to the W beyond Cook Inlet.

The sun disappears on the W horizon behind mountains beyond Anchorage and Cook Inlet. The Knik Arm is seen on the R.

A final look back at the now distant big saddle between The Wedge (R) and The Ramp (L). Photo looks SE.

As Lupe and SPHP finally drew near the turn off the Powerline Trail leading to the Glenn Alps Trailhead, some of the lights of Anchorage came into view. Mountains were silhouetted against an orange sky beyond the Knik Arm of Cook Inlet.

Some of the lights of Anchorage came into view from the Powerline Trail. Photo looks NNW.

SPHP remembered there was a small hill near the upper Glenn Alps Trailhead parking lot where the G6 was. Why not spend a view extra minutes to climb it and get a sweeping view of the lights of the entire city of Anchorage? It sounded like a great idea!

Lupe never got to. Someone else had the same idea, and had already claimed both the hill and the view as their own. (10:33 PM)Note: The Glenn Alps Trailhead is on the SE edge of Anchorage. To get there, take O’Malley Road off Seward Highway going E toward the mountains. Turn R on Hillside Drive, L on Upper Huffman Road, and follow the signs to Toilsome Road. The upper trailhead parking lot is at the end of Toilsome Road.

Links:

Chugach State Park

Chugach State Park Map

Chugach State Park Brochure

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Portage Pass & the Portage Glacier, Chugach National Forest, Alaska (8-28-16)

Day 30, Part 2 of Lupe’s Summer of 2016 Dingo Vacation to the Canadian Rockies, Yukon & Alaska

Flashing lights. SPHP slowed down, pulling over toward the shoulder to let the cop go past. Instead, the patrol car came right up behind the G6. Uh-oh. SPHP had been driving 10 mph under the limit. Now what? Lupe started to growl as the policeman approached SPHP’s window. Not a good time for that, Looper! Shush!

Burnt out headlight. Which one? The right one. Good grief. That same headlight had burnt out a few weeks before Lupe left home on this Dingo vacation. SPHP had personally bought and installed a new bulb. Most aggravating.

The officer politely gave SPHP a $50 fix-it ticket. Fix it within 30 days and have the headlight inspected by an Alaskan state trooper, or pay the fine. Sigh. Well, onward. Nothing could be done about it on a Sunday evening. Loopster, that was an adventure we could have done without.

The adventure Lupe was on her way toward was the trail to Portage Pass to see the Portage Glacier. Only a few days ago, Lupe had seen Portage Lake and taken a nearby trail to see the Byron Glacier. However, Portage Glacier long ago receded from view from the NW end of Portage Lake where Lupe had been. To see it, Lupe would have to go through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel (also known as the Whittier Tunnel), and take the trail to Portage Pass.

At 13,300 feet long (2.5 miles), the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel is the longest highway tunnel in North America. The tunnel is only a single lane wide, and highway vehicles share it with the Alaskan Railroad. Railroad tracks are embedded right in the highway lane.

Logistically, the tunnel functions on a set schedule, with highway vehicles getting to use the tunnel for 15 minutes in each direction each hour. The 15 minute intervals alternate directions every 30 minutes. The tunnel is not open to highway vehicles at night. During 2016’s summer schedule, the first time slot in the morning was 7:00 – 7:15 AM. The last time slot in the evening was 11:00 – 11:15 PM.

Lupe timed her arrival at the Whittier Tunnel perfectly! SPHP paid the $13.00 round trip fee for the G6 at the toll booth. Only a minute or two later, Lupe had a green light to enter the tunnel.

The 2.5 mile long Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel to Whittier was more fun and spooky than Lupe expected!

The maximum speed limit was only 25 mph, so it took a while to get through the tunnel. It was spookier and more fun than Lupe expected! It was a little like going down a long dungeon passage in a video game, except there were no side doors, passages, turns or curves at all. (No wandering monsters, either!) The tunnel was completely straight.

In a few places, water dripped from the ceiling. At intervals, there were small pullouts for vehicles experiencing mechanical difficulties. Otherwise, no stops are permitted. If a train had been coming from the other direction, the Whittier Tunnel would be the stuff of nightmares.

The tunnel was a little like being in a long dungeon passage in a video game, except there were no side doors, passages, twists or turns at all. The Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel is completely straight.

Of course, the tunnel’s carefully controlled schedule prevents head on collisions from happening. Still, it was an odd feeling when, upon emerging from the tunnel, Lupe saw a locomotive aimed directly at the passage she had just taken.

Lupe was now on the Whittier side. Only a short distance (0.25 mile?) from the end of the tunnel, was a R turn onto a gravel road that promptly went over the railroad tracks. This was the short road leading to the Portage Pass trailhead. Another R turn led to a lane where vehicles were parked along both sides of the road. It was a strange trailhead with no formal parking lot. At first, SPHP wasn’t even certain Lupe was at the right place.

This was it, though! SPHP parked the G6 (7:02 PM, 57°F). Tall bushes dominated the area, and out of them flooded a horde of tiny black flies. Standing around meant getting chewed on by these little menaces. Lupe and SPHP looked around for the trail to Portage Pass, finding it near a sign. Lupe set off up the trail at once.

The Portage Pass trail was relatively busy, with people and dogs coming and going. Most were leaving at this time of day. Tall bushes grew everywhere off the trail. Biting black flies were everywhere, too. They weren’t too bad, as long as Lupe didn’t stop to look around. Going up the trail to Portage Pass, there really wasn’t much to stop and look at anyway, although the view back toward Whittier and Passage Canal was steadily improving as Lupe gained elevation.

The trail to Portage Pass is only a mile or so long. The trail is popular, so it was well-worn and in good condition. It starts close to sea level, and gains nearly 800 feet of elevation. Most of the way, it climbed steadily at a moderate pace. As Lupe neared the pass, the climb became steeper. The annoying black flies did an excellent job of discouraging any needless dawdling along the way.

Thankfully, a breeze was blowing up at the pass, largely solving the black fly problem. Ahead were magnificent sights!

Lupe arrives at Portage Pass. Ahead were magnificent sights! Photo looks SW.

Coming up, Lupe had been in the shadow of Maynard Mountain (4,137 ft.), but beyond the pass, snow-covered mountains gleamed in the evening sunlight. Beautiful Portage Glacier was directly ahead a mile or more away. Big waterfalls cascaded down nearby mountains from snow fields and smaller glaciers.

From Portage Pass, Lupe saw snowy mountains in the evening sunlight. Photo looks S.

A maze of small trails climbed a variety of hilly rock formations and small ridges in Portage Pass. Lupe climbed up for a better look. A small pond known as Divide Lake was ahead to the SW. Divide Lake sat lower down on a broad, brushy flat area, beyond which Lupe saw Portage Glacier extending all the way down to the far shore of Portage Lake.

Beyond the lower small pond known as Divide Lake, Portage Glacier could be seen flowing all the way down to the far shore of Portage Lake. Photo looks SW.

Portage Glacier. Photo looks SW using the telephoto lens.

The Portage Glacier still reaches Portage Lake, and still calves icebergs into it. The glacier will not have to retreat much farther, though, before icebergs in Portage Lake will be a thing of the past. Photo looks SW.

Lupe was fortunate to see the Portage Glacier on such a clear day. Nearby Whittier has 196 inches of average annual precipitation, including 241 inches of snowfall. Yeah, might want to bring the raingear, just in case.

The Portage Glacier was far from the only beautiful sight from Portage Pass. Here, **Bard Peak (3,800 ft.)** and part of the much smaller Shakespeare Glacier are in view on the L. Photo looks SSW.

A trail continues beyond Portage Pass all the way down to Portage Lake, which is another mile away. Unfortunately, Lupe had arrived too late in the day to go that far. However, while she was up at Portage Pass, Lupe met Matt and Elisa from Nome. They decided they wanted to go at least to Divide Lake, so Lupe and SPHP tagged along, too.

From Divide Lake, it wasn’t possible to see the lower part of the Portage Glacier where it reaches Portage Lake. However, Lupe did have beautiful double views of the upper portion of the glacier and surrounding peaks reflected in the lake

Lupe saw the upper portion of the Portage Glacier and surrounding peaks reflected in mirror smooth Divide Lake. Photo looks SW.

Lupe, Matt, Elisa and SPHP went a little beyond Divide Lake, eventually reaching a bench. Bushes had grown up so much, anyone sitting on the bench no longer had a view of the Portage Glacier. SPHP could see it, but only by standing on top of a big rock nearby. Lupe saw only bushes in the direction of Portage Glacier, but she could still see big waterfalls on the mountains to the S.

From the bench beyond Divide Lake, Lupe could still see big waterfalls on the mountains to the S, although she had no view of the Portage Glacier. Photo looks S.

SPHP could see the Portage Glacier only by standing on a big rock next to the bench. However, this was a slightly better view than Lupe had had back up at Portage Pass. More of Portage Lake and some of the icebergs in it could be seen. Photos looks SW.

In late August 2016, Portage Glacier barely reached Portage Lake.

The impressive waterfalls Lupe could see to the S made a distant, soothing roar.

Matt and Elisa talked about life in Nome. Elisa told of having to call in late for work sometimes due to herds of musk oxen blocking the road. Elisa was the first person Lupe or SPHP had ever met who had this problem. There can’t be too many places in the world where musk oxen in the way would be a well-received excuse for being late to work.

**Byron Peak (4,700 ft.)** and the Portage Glacier near sunset. Photo looks SW.

A final close look at the Portage Glacier ice viewed through the telephoto lens.

Sunlight was rapidly disappearing. Soon it would be gone even from the mountaintops. Lupe, Matt, Elisa and SPHP all started back for Portage Pass. At the pass, Matt and Elisa went on, but Lupe tarried. From another rocky hill in the pass, Lupe had a beautiful view of Passage Canal back toward Whittier.

Looking across a small pond in Portage Pass in the opposite direction from the Portage Glacier. Photo looks NE.

Lupe near a cairn on one of the small rocky hills in Portage Pass. She had a tremendous view of Passage Canal back toward Whittier! The top of Lowell Peak(L) is still sunlit for a few more moments. Photo looks NE.

**Lowell Peak (4,728 ft.)** from Portage Pass. Photo looks NE using the telephoto lens.

A few late stragglers were still heading up the Portage Pass trail as Lupe headed back down to the G6. Before long, it would be too dark for them to see much of anything at Portage Pass. Most of the time, the trail was deserted. Lupe arrived back at the G6 (9:17 PM).

Even though it was getting dark, Lupe and SPHP drove into the town of Whittier, to see what it was like. Whittier was a strange place. There were few homes, and only a small run-down looking business district. Three high-rise buildings were perched up against the base of towering mountains, but only one of them was lit up.

On a Sunday evening, there wasn’t much going on, but it was easy to see that Whittier must ordinarily be a busy place. There were lots of commercial buildings around. Large parking lots were crammed full of vehicles and boats. Down by the shore, a great many boats were moored along illuminated docks in a cove of Passage Canal. Multiple railroad tracks ran through town.

The whole place had an abandoned industrial air to it, though what could be seen of the setting was spectacularly beautiful. Did Lupe want to spend the night stuck in Whittier? No, probably not. There was still time to make the 10:00 PM tunnel access back out of Whittier to the rest of the world.

So Lupe left spectacular Portage Pass, and the odd, beautifully situated town of Whittier behind. She made one more spooky trip trip through Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel, emerging from the far end beneath a starlit Alaskan sky.

Passage Canal from Portage Pass near sunset. The strange little town of Whittier is out of sight along the cove to the R.

Links:

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