An easy side hike SW from the high point on the Wilcox Pass Trail is the edge of a ridge featuring the most splendid panoramic snow-covered mountain and glacier view Lupe and SPHP have ever seen anywhere. Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, and Mt. Kitchener are on display in all their frozen glory. Although basically the same scene can be seen from down along the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, the view is even better from 1,400 feet above and well worth the effort.
The Wilcox Pass trailhead is located just E of Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 along the gravel road that leads to the Wilcox Creek campground. The turnoff is just a mile or two N of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass, and just a couple miles S of the Icefields Centre across from the Athabasca Glacier.
Lupe arrived at the Wilcox Pass trailhead on 7-29-14 less than 10 minutes after having just completed a wonderful short day hike to Parker Ridge to see the Saskatchewan Glacier. It was 12:06 PM, 72 degrees F, with totally clear skies and a dead calm when Lupe set out up the Wilcox Pass trail.
The trail starts out climbing steadily at a pretty good clip through a conifer forest. This is deservedly a very popular hike and there were lots of people hiking the trail. For the first third or more of the roughly 4 km to the top of Wilcox Pass, the trail is climbing through the forest with only glimpses of the spectacular scenery nearby.
The first really good look at the fantastic scene to the SW comes at a rock ledge just a few feet off the trail shortly before the trail emerges from the forest. From the ledge you get a clear view of Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome and Mt. Kitchener.
Lupe only stopped here for a few minutes before continuing on. From this 1st viewpoint, the trail climbs at a slower pace and soon emerges from the forest. Scattered clumps of trees are still around, but the area is mostly open so most of the time the view to the SW is unobstructed.
After almost completely leveling out, the trail, which has been heading NW, takes a jog more to the N for a rather steep stretch of climbing until it gets completely above tree line. Gradually the rate of ascent decreases as the trail turns back more to the NW once again. Shortly before reaching the high point on Wilcox Pass, Lupe came to a nice creek where she cooled off and got a drink.
From the high point on Wilcox Pass, the trail continues NW over a broad, open, gently sloping area between Mount Wilcox (9,462 ft.) to the SW and a large rocky ridge to the NE extending out from Nigel Peak (10,535 ft.). If followed beyond the pass, the trail eventually leads down to the Tangle Creek area.
However, the spectacular panoramic view Lupe had come to see, was not in the direction of Tangle Creek. Instead, Lupe turned SW at Wilcox Pass and followed an unmaintained trail which climbed a little bit before reaching the edge of a ridge 1,400 feet above the Icefields Centre. Here Lupe stopped to rest and survey the breathtaking scene.
Lupe and SPHP spent a long time gazing out at Mt. Athabasca, Mt. Andromeda, the Athabasca Glacier, Snow Dome, and Mt. Kitchener. The Icefields Centre, the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93, and the parking lot for the hike to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier were all in view, too. Special buses designed for glacier tours were crawling slowly like little black caterpillars up towards and onto the Athabasca Glacier. A portion of the huge Columbia Icefield from which the Athabasca Glacier descends loomed above the glacier.
Lupe and SPHP spent quite a bit of time at this glorious viewpoint. Lupe had some water, some Taste of the Wild and posed for photos. She soon spotted a strange creature she had never seen before coming towards her from the southern end of the Wilcox Peak area to the NNW. It was a large mountain goat! Lupe watched intently, but silently, as the mountain goat strolled very calmly on by heading SE. The mountain goat seemed completely unfazed by Lupe’s presence and eventually disappeared over a little ridge.
When it was finally time to leave this most glorious viewpoint, Lupe headed a little way up towards Wilcox Peak to see if a view of the huge Sunwapta River valley heading NW and the mountains beyond it could be easily reached. Reaching the spine of the ridge coming down from Wilcox Peak, Lupe saw that only a partial view was possible in that direction without a considerable further climb. Instead of doing that, Lupe headed ESE back down towards the country to the NW of the Wilcox Pass high point.
A new goal was in SPHP’s mind, and that was to go see Wilcox Lake, which is tucked in a cirque to the NW of Nigel Peak. Lupe crossed over to the NE side of the Wilcox Pass area. To get to Wilcox Lake, it was necessary to climb over a large ridge extending NW from Nigel Peak.
SPHP studied the ridge as Lupe approached it, looking for the best route up and over, without having to do too much climbing. Selecting a likely route that appeared to have some sort of trail leading up it, Lupe and SPHP were soon climbing up the ridge, which seemed quite a bit higher than it had looked like from afar.
The main problem though, was that the ridge consisted of extremely sharp rocks. SPHP began to worry that Lupe would cut up the pads on her paws on the jumble of extremely sharp rocks. Lupe did get to the spine of the ridge, but the view on the other side to the SE in the direction of Nigel Peak was discouraging. Wilcox Lake was nowhere in sight. A beautiful, but very barren rocky terrain lay in the direction where Wilcox Lake had to be.
If the rocks hadn’t been so sharp, Lupe would have pressed on to Wilcox Lake. However SPHP didn’t want her paws to get cut up and gave up on the idea of reaching the lake. SPHP now made an error in judgment. (Not exactly the first time!) Instead of just going back down the steep scree slope Lupe had just climbed, SPHP led her NW down a more gradual slope that looked like it would be an easier route down. Unfortunately, the sharp rocks continued in that direction too, and it proved to be quite a long hike NW before an easy way down off the ridge presented itself.
Once back down on the heather, it was an easy matter to hike back to Wilcox Pass. Lupe drank from streams, and cooled off in shallow ponds on the way. Amazingly, the pads on her paws looked just fine after all those sharp rocks, and she showed no signs of discomfort. Quite the contrary, Lupe was full of energy and rambunctious.
It was now getting later in the day and most people had already left the Wilcox Pass area, although the sun was still well up in the sky. A few puffy white clouds were drifting by in a sea of blue. On this beautiful and amazingly warm early evening, Lupe started heading back across the open heather. She passed well to the E of the high point on the Wilcox Pass trail, but eventually worked her way back to the trail for the hike back down.
It was 6:58 PM and still 75 degrees F when Lupe reached the trailhead again. Lupe had been gone almost 7 hours, but had spent several extra hours enjoying the most glorious viewpoint and on her unsuccessful exploration up to the ridge in the direction of Wilcox Lake.
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