Lupe – Page 337 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 128 – Lithograph Canyon Hillside, East Hell Canyon & Signal Hill (4-25-15)

On Expedition No. 127, Lupe pretty much finished up at least one ascent of all Black Hills, SD mountains she can climb currently in the Peakbagger.com data base. However, there was still one peakbagging goal possible in the area, which was to go to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside (5,820 ft.) . This hillside is not the summit of any peak, but simply the highest point in Jewel Cave National Monument.

Ordinarily the high points of U.S. National Parks and Monuments are off-limits to Lupe, because dogs are not allowed into the back country. However, the topo map available on Peakbagger.com showed that the high point of Jewel Cave National Monument is on the border with the Black Hills National Forest close to the NE corner of the monument. This meant Lupe could get to it by traveling through the national forest.

So at 9:30 AM on this fine morning, SPHP parked the G6 at the intersection of USFS Road No. 278 and No. 278.1E about 0.5 mile S of Hwy 16. This point is approximately 1 mile E and 0.5 mile S of the Jewel Cave National Monument E entrance along Hwy 16. The skies were mostly sunny with a few high clouds, there was a gentle S breeze, and the temperature was 52°F. Conditions were perfect for a day of dingo outdoor adventures.

Still S of Hwy 16 Lupe turned N to climb this hillside in Lithograph Canyon just E of Jewel Cave National Monument. — Still S of Hwy 16 Lupe turned N to climb this hillside adjoining Lithograph Canyon just E of Jewel Cave National Monument. Lupe’s curly tail is sticking up behind a log.

Photo looking NW taken from just SE of E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument. Hwy 16 is visible on the left. The hillside shown is the route up to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the national monument. The actual highpoint is not shown. It is a little way above and to the right of the high ground at the right edge of this photo. — Photo looking WNW taken from just ESE of E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument. Hwy 16 is visible on the left. The hillside shown is the route up to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the national monument. The actual highpoint is not shown. It is a little way above and to the right of the high ground at the right edge of this photo.

Lupe set off heading W along USFS Road No. 278 down into Lithograph Canyon. This area, along with many others along her exploration route this day, had burned in the 83,000+ acre Jasper fire that was started by an arsonist on August 24, 2000. A little before Lupe had gone a mile, Lupe turned N and went up and over the hillside to arrive at Hwy 16 at the E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument.

Lupe at the E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument now just a 20 feet N of Hwy 16. She is ready to head N up the E boundary to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point. — Lupe now 20 feet N of Hwy 16 at the E entrance to Jewel Cave National Monument. She is ready to head N up the E monument boundary to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point.

Although SPHP doesn’t ordinarily like fences, in this case SPHP was hoping to find a fence marking the E boundary of Jewel Cave National Monument. Lupe could then follow the fence line up the hillside to the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point.

What Lupe found though, was even better. There was no fence, but there was a series of metal fence posts showing the way. The fence posts were anywhere from about 50 to 200 feet apart. Some of the posts were labeled for the monument boundary and others for the national forest boundary, but it didn’t matter. It was the same boundary. The posts weren’t all lined up perfectly, but close enough for Lupe and SPHP’s purposes.

Shortly before reaching the top of the first rise along the hillside N of Hwy 16, Lupe found this survey marker for the corner of sections 36, 31, 6 & 1.

To get to the Lithographic Canyon Hillside high point of Jewel Cave National Monument, there proved to be two rises N of Hwy 16 Lupe had to ascend. Shortly before reaching the top of the first rise, Lupe came across a section line survey marker at the corner of sections 36, 31, 6 & 1. Continuing N from the top of the first rise, Lupe could see the next rise ahead.

Lupe on top of the first rise. Photo looks N towards the 2nd rise, which is beyond the dead tree near the center of this photo.

Lupe passed under a barbed wire fence running E/W at the base of the 2nd rise, but what that fence signified was unknown. It was not the Jewel Cave National Monument boundary. SPHP spotted another boundary marker ahead to the N high up on the edge of the 2nd rise. When Lupe got up to it, more boundary markers could be seen nearby still farther N. From the edge of the 2nd rise, Lupe continued N along nearly level ground close to 200 feet and found a couple of Black Hills National forest boundary markers.

NE corner of Jewel Cave N. M. according to USFS markers. A dead tree has fallen right over the spot where SPHP believes the survey corner pin must be. Photo looks a bit E of S back towards the edge of the 2nd rise.

A dead tree had fallen in between two Black Hills National Forest boundary posts right across where SPHP presumes the survey corner pin must be for the NE corner of Jewel Cave National Monument. There were also two metal signs on bearing trees nearby with survey information on them. One was on a tree 33 feet away to the N and slightly to the W. The other was attached to a stump 17 feet almost due E of the corner.

Still at the NE corner of Jewel Cave N. M. as per Forest Service markers. The metal survey information sign on the “bearing stump” is visible as a yellow square 17 feet beyond the corner and Lupe’s head. Photo looks E.

SPHP wasn’t thinking too clearly. At first SPHP was thinking that by finding the NE corner of Jewel Cave National Monument, Lupe had also reached the actual high point of the monument. While looking back S along the E boundary of the monument towards the edge of the 2nd rise, SPHP suddenly realized the corner was not necessarily the absolute highest point. Lupe and SPHP headed back S along the E boundary looking for the very highest point.

Lupe sitting near a collection of rocks with a piece of a post laying on them. SPHP thought this also looked like the very highest point along the E boundary of Jewel Cave N.M. — Lupe sitting near a collection of rocks with a piece of a post laying on them. SPHP thought this looked like the very highest point along the E boundary of Jewel Cave N.M. Photo looks NNW.

SPHP came across a little pile of rocks with a piece of an old post sticking out of it where the ground seemed to be the highest. Lupe got her picture taken here, since once again SPHP was satisfied that Lupe was now at the Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point and the highest spot in Jewel Cave National Monument. SPHP was still thinking the high point was along the E boundary.

The prettiest view was from the post near the edge of the 2nd rise along the E boundary. Photo looks SE. — The prettiest view was from the post near the edge of the 2nd rise N of Hwy 16 along the E boundary of Jewel Cave National Monument. Photo looks SE.

Lupe and SPHP went NW up(!) to a log so SPHP could sit down and take a break while thinking about where to go next. It hadn’t taken terribly long for Lupe to get up here. SPHP had been thinking Lupe might spend the rest of the day exploring East Hell Canyon farther to the N, and wanted to consult some maps. Meanwhile, Lupe had some water and a little Taste of the Wild.

Gazing S from the log, SPHP suddenly realized the ground for a little way to the W of the E monument boundary line was obviously HIGHER than the E boundary itself. The Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of Jewel Cave National Monument was along the N boundary, not the E boundary!

So Lupe sniffed around while SPHP went back to find the N boundary of Jewel Cave National Monument and the highest point along it. Interestingly, SPHP found that there was a line of Jewel Cave National Monument border posts heading W, but that they did not line up with the NE corner of the monument as indicated by the national forest boundary markers Lupe had already visited. Just pacing it off, the national monument border posts for the N boundary were about 55 feet S of where the national forest corner indicated they should be. The first national monument border post was about 20 feet W of the E boundary and had a partially burned flat piece of wood still clinging to it.

This Jewel Cave National Monument boundary marker with a partially burned piece of sign clinging to it is the first marker W along the N boundary. It is about 20 feet W of the E boundary. — This Jewel Cave National Monument boundary marker with a partially burned flat piece of wood clinging to it is the first marker W along the N boundary. It is about 20 feet W of the E boundary and about 55 feet S of the NE corner of the monument as indicated by the National Forest survey markers.

The high point of the Lithograph Canyon Hillside was roughly 100 feet W of the E boundary along the N boundary line. SPHP took a photo of Lupe standing on a log about 1.5 feet above the high point along the N boundary as indicated by the Jewel Cave National Monument border posts. However, with all the detailed survey work that seems to have been done by the national forest at the NE corner (two corner posts, a bearing tree and a bearing stump, and probably a survey pin under the dead tree), SPHP suspects the real high point is 55 feet farther N.

Another Jewel Cave National Monument N border post is seen to the W of Lupe. Probably about 55 feet S of the true Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of the monument.

Of course, Lupe also went to the high point 55 feet back to the N in line with the national forest survey. This was most likely the true Lithograph Canyon Hillside high point of Jewel Cave National Monument, but SPHP did not bother to take another photo of Lupe there. SPHP already had enough photos of the area, and this spot didn’t look much different. Lupe was getting bored with SPHP’s obsession with marching back and forth over the same little patch of ground. None of it was all that remarkably different in elevation, views or any other aspect. (If some reader with GPS ever gets up here, SPHP would still like to hear their opinion on the location of the true high point!)

As far as Lupe was concerned, it was mission accomplished and time to press on to the N to explore East Hell Canyon. SPHP agreed. Lupe headed N continuing up the now increasingly gentle slope. The terrain made her turn first to the NNE and then back to the NNW to stay on the high ground. After going a good 0.5 mile N, Lupe started heading down a big draw leading into East Hell Canyon from the ESE.

Lupe on her way down the draw leading into East Hell Canyon. There were at least 3 elk and a few deer in this area.

Lupe had a much better time in East Hell Canyon than whoever named the place. Near the bottom of the canyon there was a big thick patch of a variety of tall thorny bushes, but that was as bad as it got. The canyon floor looked very wild where Lupe first reached it. Fortunately there was a remnant of a road in the canyon for SPHP to follow. (SPHP didn’t know it at the time, but this was USFS Road No. 284.2L.) Lupe and SPHP turned N again to explore.

Lupe entered East Hell Canyon just S (R) of this cliff on the E side of the canyon.

Heading N along the “road” (No. 284.2L) in East Hell Canyon.

Lupe in East Hell Canyon a little way E of Short Fork Draw.

Lupe came to better roads at a canyon junction in Section 30. Here the canyon was trending to the NE, but the way directly ahead was blocked by a canyon wall with a big crack in it. A road going E toward Windmill Draw was marked USFS Road No. 681. Lupe stayed on 284.2L which turned NNW.

Looking N at the cracked canyon wall where USFS Roads No. 681 and 284.2L meet. — Looking NE at the cracked canyon wall where USFS Roads No. 681 and 284.2L meet. Lupe on the run!

Lupe just S of the cracked canyon wall near the canyon junction. Photo looks SW towards the cliffs. — Lupe just SW of the cracked canyon wall near the canyon junction. Photo looks W towards the cliffs.

So far Lupe hadn’t come to any creek or stream in East Hell Canyon, but pretty soon she did come to a round plastic livestock watering tank. There was only an inch of amazingly clear water in it. SPHP picked Lupe up and put her in it. She immediately laid down and had a nice drink. Then she spent a minute or two wading around surprised to have her own wading pool. When she was done, she easily jumped out. Lupe started coming to more watering tanks even though Lupe never saw any livestock in East Hell Canyon. Lupe did not get into any of the other watering tanks.

Still no creek or stream, but Lupe did come to this round livestock water trough, which she used as her wading pool. Lupe saw no livestock anywhere in East Hell Canyon. Though only an inch deep, the water was remarkably clear. Most water tanks contain some pretty disgusting stuff.

USFS Road No. 284.2L ended at a canyon junction just W of Windmill Draw. A sign here said it was still 3 miles to Custer Limestone Road (No. 284). Lupe could have turned NE on No. 284.2B, but instead continued NNW on No. 284.2A.

Lupe reaches the intersection of USFS Roads No. 284.2A and No. 284.2B just W of Windmill Draw. She continued N on No. 284.2A. — Lupe reaches the end of USFS Road No. 284.2L and intersection of USFS Roads No. 284.2A and No. 284.2B just W of Windmill Draw. She continued NNW on No. 284.2A.

Maps showed that Bear Spring Creek flows through this portion of East Hell Canyon where No. 284.2A goes, but there was still no sign of any creek or stream. As Lupe and SPHP continued on up East Hell Canyon, gradually the canyon walls had fewer and smaller cliffs. Eventually the canyon felt less like a canyon and more like just a valley.

Lupe finally reaches Bear Springs Creek flowing across No. 284.2A just 0.25 mile S of No. 284.

Lupe had already gone a long way when she came to a place where the dry creek bed was green with new shoots of grass. The dark soil looked moist. Finally Lupe came to Bear Springs Creek. By then she was only about 0.25 mile S of County Road No. 284 (Custer Limestone Road).

Going uphill to find water is not at all uncommon in the Black Hills. The area is semi-arid and the geology of the Black Hills region is such that the hills are surrounded by a ring of limestone and other porous rock formations. Few creeks or steams have sufficient flow to remain above ground as they leave the Black Hills. The entire flow of most simply sinks into the ground. Over the ages, these underground creeks and streams have charged regional aquifers. In some places they dissolved the limestone to create long complicated caves like Wind Cave and Jewel Cave.

When Lupe reached County Road No. 284, SPHP debated what to do next. After checking the maps, SPHP settled on Signal Hill (6,483 ft.) . Lupe had recently climbed Signal Hill for the first time back on Expedition No. 125, but SPHP decided it was worth doing again. From there, Lupe could explore USFS Road No. 747 heading back to the S.

A somewhat dull 2.75 mile trudge towards the NW along No. 284, a major gravel road, ensued. SPHP picked up some of the trash in the ditch to pack out. At last Lupe reached No. 747 and turned S towards Signal Hill, a 10 minute hike away. This time, instead of going directly up the N slope, SPHP circled around the NW side of the hill to an area enclosed by an 8 foot tall wire mesh fence. Just before reaching the fence Lupe spotted a shallow stock pond with little water, but lots of dark reddish brown mud in it off to the NW. Naturally she ran over to lay down in the mud and have a drink of mineral water.

At the S end of the fenced enclosure, SPHP turned and made the short climb from the W up Signal Hill. A rainstorm was in progress off to the WSW at Elk Mountain. It was almost certainly heading this way. Nevertheless, Lupe and SPHP lingered on Signal Hill for a little while. The air was cool and felt good. The views were pretty nice, although also barren and forlorn. Lupe finished her Taste of the Wild while SPHP enjoyed the moment.

Lupe props herself up on the remains of the old lookout tower foundation on Summit Hill. Lupe left Summit Hill heading SE in the direction this photo is looking. — Lupe props herself up on the remains of the old lookout tower foundation on Signal Hill. Lupe left Signal Hill heading SE in the direction this photo is looking. The little road she went to is barely visible at the upper left.

Lupe and SPHP couldn’t stay for too long up on Signal Hill. The storm was coming and it was many miles back to the G6 now. SPHP had intended to have Lupe explore No. 747 on the way back to the S, but mistakenly assumed it was the little road visible to the SE from the summit. (Actually No. 747 heads SSW from the W side of Signal Hill.) Lupe and SPHP went SE down the hill. Upon reaching the little road, Lupe followed it. Before long it curved around to the NE and promptly dead-ended at another livestock watering tank.

Lupe on the little road that was not No. 747. Photo looks back to the NW at Summit Hill. — Lupe on the little road that was not No. 747. Photo looks NW back at Signal Hill.

SPHP had no clue what had happened to No. 747 and didn’t want to bother with looking at maps. To the S was a long stretch of high ground that had burned in the Jasper fire. SPHP decided to just head S trying to maintain elevation. SPHP and Lupe both really enjoyed this section of the journey. There was some deadfall timber to deal with, but it wasn’t too bad. There were lots of animal trails to follow for long stretches. The air was clean and cool. There were pleasant distant views from the open high ground.

Lupe reaches the White Water Tank about 2 miles S of Signal Hill just as the rain starts.

Long before reaching it, a white water tank was visible off to the S. Lupe and SPHP headed for it. The rain started about the time Lupe reached the white water tank, which was probably a bit less than 2 miles S of Signal Hill. There was a road running E/W just N of the white water tank. SPHP knew it could likely be followed E to County Road No. 282 (Mud Springs Road), but didn’t want to do that. Lupe was having more fun just roaming the open lands.

SPHP and Lupe climbed the big hill just S of the white water tank. SPHP found a piece of thin metallic foil, evidently part of a helium balloon from a child’s birthday party and picked it up. SPHP wondered how many miles it had drifted through the sky to arrive way out here. Another big hill came into view farther off to the S, although some of the intervening ground was forested. Lupe and SPHP just kept wandering. SPHP wanted to go SSE, but the terrain kept forcing Lupe back to the SSW. There were elk and deer in the area. SPHP heard, but did not see, wild turkeys.

The rain wasn’t very heavy. Lupe got damp, not soaked. Luckily, the storm had split and most of the rain had gone either N or S of Lupe. It rained the hardest for 15 minutes as the sun came out and the last of the storm passed. A double rainbow formed off to the E, but only the ends of the rainbow existed, there wasn’t anything where the upper portions of the arches should have been.

There was more forested land and fewer burn areas as Lupe continued S. Lupe entered the damp gloomy forest. Finally Lupe came to a nice valley she had to go down into before climbing up another big ridge she had seen from afar. At the top of this ridge was a good gravel road. Lupe followed it ESE since it was staying on the high ground.

A vehicle came along heading ESE. With all the dang, confounded traffic, SPHP decided to leave the road and parallel it from a little way to the S. The road eventually proved to be County Road No. 283 (Antelope Creek Road) as signs proved where it intersected No. 282 (Mud Springs Road). Lupe and SPHP turned S on the ever-so-charmingly named Mud Springs Road.

The sun sets on Expedition No. 128 and another fabulous Dingo Day. Here Lupe is just off Mud Springs Road with a good 6 miles or more to go before reaching the G6 again.

By now it was getting quite late in the day. SPHP hoped that with some clouds off to the W, there might be a colorful sunset. For a few minutes the sun was a golden ball between a break in the clouds. SPHP should have snapped a photo then. The pinks, oranges, reds and purples never developed. The western sky turned gray. SPHP took a final photo as the light faded.

Lupe had more than 6 miles still to go to get back to the G6. There was a half moon, but it was often obscured by clouds. Lupe followed Mud Springs Road S to Hwy 16, turned E and followed Hwy 16 all the way through Jewel Cave National Monument. At one point park personnel drove by, stopped and asked if Lupe and SPHP needed help. No sir. Other vehicles came along every few minutes. A mile E of Jewel Cave National Monument, SPHP was glad to get away from the highway and turn S for the last 0.5 mile on No. 278.

Lupe was kind of tired. She had been running around for almost 13 hours. It was 10:18 PM and 42°F when Lupe reached the G6. She didn’t hesitate like she often does. She jumped right in and curled up. On the way home she only jumped up to bark frantically whenever SPHP said “deer!” Other than that she snoozed and dreamed dingo dreams all the way home.

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Nigel Pass & Panther Falls, Banff National Park, Canada (7-31-14)

On Lupe’s last full day of vacation in the Canadian Rockies in 2014, Lupe and SPHP took the trail to Nigel Pass and also stopped by nearby Panther Falls. The Nigel Pass trail is popular with backpackers for gaining access to long distance trails in the Brazeau River canyon area. Canadian Rockies explorer Mary Shaffer and her party first came across 60 meter Panther Falls on Nigel Creek in 1907.

The Nigel Pass trailhead is located along a gravel road on the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93. The trailhead parking lot is tucked out of sight a very short distance from and below the highway. The turnoff for the gravel road is N of the big loop in Hwy 93 as it starts to climb out of the N. Saskatchewan River valley, and 5.5 miles S of the Banff and Jasper National Parks boundary at Sunwapta Pass. The Parker Ridge trailhead along the opposite side of the highway is a couple of miles N of the Nigel Pass trailhead access road.

Lupe set off from the Nigel Pass trailhead at 10:05 AM. It was a pleasant 59 °F out, but the sun was already blazing high in a cloudless sky promising a very warm day for the Canadian Rockies. The previous day on Lupe’s way to Miette Hot Springs E of Jasper, the temperature had soared to a scorching 94 degrees. Fortunately Lupe was riding in the G6 in air conditioned comfort then, but today Lupe was destined to seek out shade, creeks and a small lake to stay cool and comfortable.

The hike to Nigel Pass is 7.2 km long and starts out with a 2.1 km walk along a gravel road heading NW. This road gains elevation at a very steady, but relaxed pace. It is on the SW side of the Nigel Creek valley and was pretty exposed to the sun in late morning. Lupe and SPHP were glad when the trail left the road and turned N into the shade of the forest. The trail soon passed to the W of a group of old buildings and then continued downhill for a short stretch to footbridges across Hilda Creek and then Nigel Creek just above their confluence.

Once on the E side of Nigel Creek, the trail made a short steep climb into the forest. It then headed steadily N up the E side of the valley well above creek level. As the trail continued N, the rate of climb gradually diminished to a very easy pace. Soon the trail started approaching tree line, and the forest began to thin out.

Lupe came to stretches of open ground where there were great views of Nigel Creek down in the valley to the W and a big rocky ridge up ahead at Nigel Pass. Lupe didn’t get too much of a chance to appreciate the view, however, since the open areas were almost entirely covered with bushes about 3 feet high. The bushes still amounted to a forest to Lupe.

Lupe reaches the SE end of the ridge at Nigel Pass. Photo is looking NW toward the Brazeau River canyon area.

After several km, Nigel Creek turned NW to head even farther away from the trail over to the W side of the valley. The trail itself continued N for another km and then turned NE as it climbed more steeply again through a patch of forest for the final stretch up to Nigel Pass. A couple from Michigan and their two daughters were at the high point on the trail. They had come to Canada to visit relatives in Edmonton, but were now on their way back from a backpacking trip down in the Brazeau River valley.

The trail continued over the ridge from this high point losing perhaps 100 feet of elevation down to where it crossed the Brazeau River, here just a swift stream not far from its source. From there the trail turned NW climbing the S side of a mountain, the upper reaches of which looked like one huge slab of rock. The trail actually rose to a higher point over there than where Lupe was now, before dropping a long way down into the Brazeau River valley.

The huge slab of rock on the mountain just N of the SE end of the ridge at Nigel Pass.

Without a map, SPHP was not certain Lupe had actually reached Nigel Pass. There was no sign around. The people from Michigan had not seen any sign for the pass either. They thought the pass was farther along the trail at the high point on the S side of the mountain beyond the Brazeau River in the valley to the N. They weren’t sure either, though.

SPHP was pretty certain Nigel Pass was somewhere along the ridge Lupe was already on. Leaving both the trail and the people from Michigan behind, Lupe climbed NW just a short distance up onto the top of the ridge. The ridge was barren and rocky and extended about a km off to the NW.

This photo looks along the ridge line towards the WNW. — This photo looks along the ridge line towards the WNW, but is partially obstructed by a favorite American dingo.

The view to the S down the Nigel Creek valley towards Mt. Saskatchewan. — The view to the S down the Nigel Creek valley Lupe had just come up. **Mt. Saskatchewan (10,965 ft.)** is looking glorious beyond Parker ridge in the distance.

The view towards the ESE from the ridge at Nigel Pass. The Brazeau River issues from the canyon in this direction and there are a couple of small lakes back there. If SPHP had brought a decent area map along and realized what was there, it would have been fun to explore in that direction. — The view towards the ESE from the ridge at Nigel Pass. The Brazeau River issues from the canyon in this direction and there are a couple of small lakes back there. If SPHP had brought a decent area map along and realized what was there, it would have been fun to explore in this direction.

There were several modestly higher points along the ridge farther to the NW. It was also clear that a much better view of the lower Brazeau River canyon heading off to the N could be obtained by hiking over to the NW end of the ridge. So Lupe headed NW up and down along the barren rocky ridge, climbing each of the high points along the way.

The highest of these points was at the far NW end of the ridge. From there Lupe did have a great view down to the N of the Brazeau River canyon. Back to the S was a beautiful view down the upper Nigel Creek valley with Parker Ridge and the snow covered slopes of Mount Saskatchewan beyond.

Lupe now near the NW high point on the ridge at Nigel Pass. Photo looks N down into the Brazeau River canyon.

To the SW was a broad gap between the end of the ridge and a steep high rock wall. About 100 feet below Lupe down in the gap was a beautiful light blue heart-shaped lake with a few trees around it. This area looked like it might just as easily be Nigel Pass as where the trail had reached the crest of the ridge.

Lupe headed down the slope to the heart-shaped lake. Reaching the lake, she plunked herself right down in it and had a good long drink. A trail headed S from the lake down into the upper Nigel Creek valley.

The heart-shaped lake below the ridge at Nigel Pass. The topo map on Peakbagger.com shows the area near this lake labeled as Nigel Pass. SPHP considers the entire ridge from where Lupe met the people from Michigan on the trail to this heart-shaped lake all part of Nigel Pass. The heart-shaped lake is actually in Jasper National Park. The boundary between Banff National Park and Jasper National Park runs along the ridge.

A last look back along the Nigel Pass ridge towards the SE before Lupe headed SW down to the heart-shaped lake.

Always enthusiastic about the prospect of being able to make a loop and see something new on the way back, SPHP led Lupe S down the trail from the heart-shaped lake. Lupe was now heading back down the Nigel Creek valley, but on the W side of it instead of the E side. The trail from the heart-shaped lake is apparently seldom used. Bushes and small trees were growing up and crowding it. In some spots SPHP lost the trail completely, but soon found it again each time. Only Lupe’s curly tail stuck up above the bushes in many places. The trail continued steadily on though, and eventually reached Nigel Creek.

The trail looked like it went across to the SW side of Nigel Creek, but there was no bridge. Not wanting to get boots soaked and uncertain where the trail would end up, SPHP decided it might be best to just head back to the main trail. Fortunately, right along Nigel Creek the ground was rocky and pretty much free of trees and bushes. So Lupe stayed on the NE bank of Nigel Creek and followed it SE downstream. When Nigel Creek approached the E side of the valley, it turned S. A quick scramble up a low bank into the forest just ahead led Lupe back to the main trail. Lupe then followed the main trail the rest of the way back.

It was 4:21 PM, 85 degrees F, clear and calm when Lupe got back to the G6 at the trailhead. Lupe’s trip to Nigel Pass was complete, but she was destined to make one more little exploration this day. Lupe went to see Panther Falls a short distance farther downstream on Nigel Creek, first seen by explorer Mary Shaffer and her companions in 1907.

The trail to Panther Falls is located at the S end of a huge gravel pullout area on the E side of the Icefields Parkway Hwy 93 located just 1 or 2 km S from the gravel access road to the Nigel Pass trailhead. This huge pullout area is the same one as for the Bridal Veil Falls lookout. At the S (downhill) end of the pullout, the trail to Panther Falls leaves the pullout area and makes a couple of switchbacks down a steep canyon wall to a viewpoint for Panther Falls.

Lupe enjoyed the cool spray from Panther Falls on this hot day. The trail to this viewpoint would be quite treacherous on a day cold enough for the spray to freeze. Bridal Veil Falls is not far away, but on a smaller creek, and not as impressive as Panther Falls.

The Panther Falls viewpoint is hidden in a thick forest and a bit treacherous as spray from the falls makes the narrow trail wet and slippery. On such an amazingly hot day in the Canadian Rockies, Lupe and SPHP both appreciated the cool spray coming from Panther Falls!

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