Lupe – Page 203 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

The Alaskan North Slope Dingo – Deadhorse or Bust! (8-20-17)

Day 21 of Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

4:54 AM, 38°F, S bank of the Atigun River near the Dalton Highway bridge – Fog. Again. So what else was new? Despite fog, rain, and snow, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Lake Benchmark Mountain (5,000 ft.) yesterday. The day before that, she’d seen Galbraith lake and made it to the S edge of the North Slope beyond the Brooks Range, as far N as she had ever been in her life. So Loop had accomplished what had been planned here. Time to head S.

And yet the North Slope had been so enticing and mysterious! It would have been fun to go farther N, all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Deadhorse was only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean and only another 140 miles or so from here. If there had been easy access to the ocean, Lupe would have gone for sure, despite the weather. An Arctic Ocean adventure, even a short one, would be so incredible! However, all along the coast and for several miles inland, energy companies maintain tight security. Although it was possible to take a paid tour from Deadhorse to the Arctic Ocean, SPHP already knew Dingoes weren’t allowed.

When Lupe had been in the Brooks Range last year, she had met several people who had gone all the way to Deadhorse, or were on their way there. Those who had already been there had reported seeing arctic foxes, snowy owls, caribou, and even musk oxen out on the North Slope. No one said anything favorable about Deadhorse, though. It was just an ugly industrial complex, not even a town, with nothing to do there.

No, without access to the Arctic Ocean for the Carolina Dog, and this foggy weather, it was hard to justify going any farther N. Lupe had lots more adventures planned elsewhere in Alaska. Best get on with it. SPHP fired up the G6, and Lupe was on her way S. The sky was completely overcast. Only a thin fog was present near ground level. Loop could see a mile or two to the base of the mountains. (5:15 AM)

Lupe along the Dalton Highway on her way S to Atigun Pass. Photo looks S.

The Atigun Pass area was darkly overcast. It was snowing, and the snow was beginning to stick. The mountains were white, where they could be seen through the fog. The Dalton Highway was slushy, but the G6 made it to the top of the pass. Lupe and SPHP got out to experience winter in August. (6:18 AM)

Loop at **Atigun Pass** in the **Brooks Range** for the second time in only a couple of days. This time she was heading S.

The weather was better S of Atigun Pass. Lupe stopped briefly at the Chandalar Shelf. The top of Table Mountain (6,314 ft.) was partly in view, and partly obscured by clouds. A fair amount of snow seemed to be present on what could be seen of the summit, but none existed below the final steep climb.

Heading down the S side of Atigun Pass. Photo looks SW.

The weather was somewhat better S of Atigun Pass. The sky wasn’t as darkly overcast and it wasn’t foggy out. Photo looks S while still on the way down from the pass.

Lupe still hadn’t climbed Table Mountain. Table Mountain was the only peak on her original list of objectives along the Dalton Highway for this Dingo Vacation that she hadn’t climbed yet. She was here plenty early in the day. Still, the weather looked pretty iffy. Not foggy, but still lots of clouds hanging around.

As much fun as Table Mountain might have been, after yesterday’s adventure in cold rain, snow, and fog up on Lake Benchmark Mountain, SPHP decided maybe Lupe would be smart to skip it. Conditions were marginal. The weather wouldn’t have to deteriorate much before Loop wouldn’t be able to see a thing up there, even if she did make it to the top. Sad, but true. Onward!

Beyond the Chandalar Shelf, down in the Dietrich River valley, the weather continued to improve. Lupe even saw patches of blue sky. It must have been somewhat sunny here over the past couple of days. The Dalton Highway was much drier now, a vast improvement. The G6 whizzed along at a lively 45 mph!

Lupe reached the Coldfoot visitor center at 9:00 AM. A sign said it was closed until 11:00 AM. Hmm. SPHP drove over to Coldfoot camp on the other side of the Dalton Highway. The American Dingo had to wait in the G6 while SPHP disappeared into the restaurant.

The wait was longer than Lupe expected. Coldfoot camp had a breakfast buffet going on. All you can eat for only $14.95, an absolute bargain way up here N of the Arctic Circle! SPHP ate an enormous breakfast – eggs, pancakes, muffins, sausage, bacon, ham, water, root beer, and coffee. It was great! More than hour after SPHP went in, Lupe got to enjoy a few pieces of smuggled out bacon.

SPHP gassed up the G6, another bargain at only $4.599 per gallon, and Loop was on her way again on the Dalton Highway.

Whoa, SPHP! Wrong way!

Nope! We’re fine, Loopster.

No, we’re not! You turned R, we’re going back N again!

Yeppers!

I thought we were going S. Aren’t we leaving the Arctic?

We were, but now we’re not.

Why not? Where are we going then?

It’s Deadhorse or bust, Loopster! I changed my mind. We can’t just leave! You’re going to go as far N as we can get. We’ve come all this way clear up to the Brooks Range two years running now. Just doesn’t feel right not to go all the way to the end of the Dalton Highway. We may never return. This may be our last chance. Whether we can see anything or not out on the North Slope, and whether or not you can get to the Arctic Ocean, we’re just going to do it.

Oh, exciting! I hope we see some caribou and musk ox on the North Slope! A polar bear would be totally awesome! Can I ask a favor, though?

Sure, what is it?

Since we’re going to go by it again, can we stop at the Dietrich River and go on my 2016 Last Mile North adventure by the Alaska oil pipeline again? I love that place!

Of course! That’s a great idea. We’ll do it, but maybe just to the stream N of Dillon Mountain instead of all the way to its confluence with the Dietrich River. I drove so far S before changing my mind that Deadhorse is a long way off now, and who knows what the road will be like N of the Brooks Range? I’m hoping we can still get to Deadhorse tonight.

Lupe did get to go on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure again! Even though she didn’t get to go all the way to the stream’s confluence with the Dietrich River, Loop had a blast! So easy, and so much fun!

Lupe at the stream that flows W from N of **Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.)** (R). This was Lupe’s 3rd time now on her 2016 Last Mile North adventure, which has become a real favorite. Photo looks SE.

Then it was N again, on to the Chandalar Shelf. It was nearly 1:00 PM when Lupe arrived this time. Weather conditions hadn’t changed much since this morning. Once again SPHP deemed conditions too iffy, and now the hour too late, to seriously consider an ascent of Table Mountain.

Lupe returns to the **Chandalar Shelf**. She’s about 9 miles from Atigun Pass here. Photo looks ESE.

Looking S across the **Chandalar Shelf** toward **Table Mountain**. The top of the mountain is completely hidden in the clouds. SPHP again concluded conditions weren’t right for an ascent.

When Lupe went over Atigun Pass again, the weather was better than it had been early this morning. It was no longer snowing. The slushy snow on the Dalton Highway had melted. There were even patches of blue sky. The mountains were visible now, instead of cloaked with fog. They looked dramatic – all clean, cold and white.

Heading N again on the way to Atigun Pass from the Chandalar Shelf. Photo looks NE.

Lupe near the Dalton Highway N of Atigun Pass again.

The mountains of the **Brooks Range** looked clean, cold and white.

The better weather did not extend much beyond Atigun Pass. Soon the sky was totally overcast again. As Lupe followed the Atigun River N, the mountains were all hidden in clouds and fog.

Yesterday morning, Lupe had taken her Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, a short hike not far from milepost 278 of the Dalton Highway out onto the tundra. At the time, it had seemed likely to be as far N as Lupe was ever going to be in her whole life. Due to the current sudden change of plans, however, that was already no longer true. Still, the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll had been a fun experience. Why not repeat it before continuing N and setting a new record? Lupe was totally in favor of the idea. (2:33 PM, 41°F)

This time, SPHP went 500 feet beyond the endpoint of Lupe’s first Stroll to the North Slope Knoll. Lupe went even farther, racing 200 yards past SPHP out over the yellow tundra, sniffing and exploring as she went.

On her 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll adventure, Lupe went even farther than she did yesterday morning. Photo looks NW.

The mood of Lupe’s second Stroll to the North Slope Knoll was entirely different. Instead of being the expected end of all her explorations N, this time it was merely a preliminary launching point. Lupe wasn’t going to have to turn around having seen only the very S end of the North Slope. From here, Lupe was going all the way to Deadhorse at the end of the Dalton Highway! Who knew what she might see along the way? It was all a grand mystery. A mystery about to be revealed.

This 2nd Stroll to the North Slope Knoll felt different. This time it was not the expected end of Lupe’s explorations N, but a launching point. This time it was Deadhorse or bust! An exciting new adventure was about to begin! Who knew what Lupe might see out on Alaska’s North Slope? It was all a mystery about to be revealed! Photo looks WNW.

When Lupe returned to the G6 at 3:20 PM, the adventures of the North Slope Dingo were about to begin in earnest. If the G6 was tough enough, only 136 more miles on the Dalton Highway would bring the American Dingo to its far N end at milepost 414 in Deadhorse. Though Lupe would never get to Alaska’s N coast due to security restrictions, the Carolina Dog would be only a few miles from the Arctic Ocean!

And so it began. Leaving the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll behind, Lupe and SPHP headed N on the Dalton Highway. The road was fine for a number of miles. Lupe soon saw Toolik Lake off to the W. The highway made a sharp turn to the E here.

The weather deteriorated. Mist and light rain. The Dalton Highway was full of mud puddles. The road went up and down over a series of hills. The most worrisome stretches were where the road was soft and muddy, but that wasn’t its most common condition. Far more often it was rough and washboardy, with long stretches of jarring potholes.

The G6 wasn’t built for this kind of abuse. The only defense against the rough road was to drive very slowly. That was OK. It didn’t actually matter how long it took the Carolina Dog to get to Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway went NE for a while before turning N again. A dozen miles from the Stroll to the North Slope Knoll, Lupe saw two seagulls!

4:14 PM, 110 to 115 miles from Deadhorse – The road has improved, no longer as rough and full of potholes as it had been going over the hills. To the W is a fairly high mountain, a lone one with its top lost in clouds and mist. It isn’t far from the Dalton Highway. If the weather was better, maybe Lupe could climb it? What can be seen of it certainly looks climbable. Remember this mountain for the return trip S!

Farther away off to the E and NE are lots more mountains, no doubt a continuation of the Brooks Range. However, there is no way to get over there. From the G6, Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between the highway and those mountains to the E.

Lupe on the Dalton Highway 110-115 miles from Deadhorse. The rain and mist have finally let up, but it’s still a low ceiling day. Photo looks NE.

Oh, that looks like a fun, easy mountain to climb! No way to get over there, though. Lupe has caught glimpses of a large river between here and there from the G6. Photo looks SE.

4:40 PM, 105 miles from Deadhorse – Since leaving the Brooks Range, the Dalton Highway has only come to small streams. Up until now, that is. The large river Lupe caught glimpses of earlier is now only 300 to 600 feet E of the road. This must be the Sagavanirktok River. The Sag flows N all the way to Deadhorse, where it empties into the Beaufort Sea. It’s not yet a huge river. The Sagavanirktok is only slightly lower in elevation than the highway. The intervening ground appears quite swampy.

An industrial complex is on the W side of the highway, presumably some sort of pumping or maintenance station for the Alaska oil pipeline.

The **Sagavanirktok River** flows N near the Dalton Highway on its way to Deadhorse and the Beaufort Sea. Photo looks N.

Although most of the North Slope appeared to be as yet almost totally unspoiled, every so often Lupe came to industrial areas like this one. They were almost certainly somehow connected with maintenance or operation of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks SW.

Looking back toward some of the foothills of the **Brooks Range**. Photo looks S.

5:05 PM – Lupe has a great view of the Sagavanirktok River, Alaska oil pipeline, and Dalton Highway from Oil Spill Hill. The road subsequently drops down into the river valley for several miles before climbing back out of it at Ice Cut.

Once the **Sagavanirktok River** gets close to the Dalton Highway, the river parallels the road the rest of the way to Deadhorse. However, it’s not always in view like this. Photo looks NE.

Although Lupe watched for wildlife along the **Sagavanirktok River** for a long time, she never saw anything other than birds. That was disappointing. A musk ox would have been really cool! Photo looks NE.

5:15 PM, 90 miles to Deadhorse – Now that the Dalton Highway is up out of the Sagavanirktok River valley N of Ice Cut, the river is out of sight. The North Slope is a golden rolling featureless land stretching as far as one can see to low hills on the horizon. Larger hills are off to the E beyond the Alaska oil pipeline, but the Brooks Range is no longer in view. To the W there is nothing except a distant tower on a gentle rise.

The North Slope Dingo seems to have lost hope of seeing any wildlife in this barren land. She’s taken to snoozing.

The **North Slope** about 90 miles from Deadhorse. Golden boreal tundra stretches to low hills on the horizon. A lone tower (L) sits atop a gentle rise. Photo looks WNW with help from the telephoto lens.

80 miles from Deadhorse – Widely scattered patches of sunlight appear on the yellow tundra. A few patches of blue sky exist. The clouds are low, but apparently not that thick.

The North Slope Dingo is awake again, but still has seen no animals. The reason is becoming increasingly clear. For many miles, pickup trucks have often been in view parked along the access roads to the Alaska oil pipeline, especially near the Sagavanirktok River. People are sometimes seen nearby. They often wear at least some orange. Hunters! No wonder whatever wildlife exists has fled beyond vision. Sad.

76 miles from Deadhorse – Pavement! The first pavement since S of the Atigun River 75 miles ago. A nice 6 or 7 mile stretch, then it’s back to mud and gravel.

6:00 PM, 45°F, 67 miles from Deadhorse – The Sagavanirktok River, which has only occasionally been visible from the Dalton Highway, now curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs that has been in view for miles. The bluffs had been bathed in sunlight, but by the time the North Slope Dingo arrives for a photo, the light is past its best. Minutes later it is gone.

67 miles from Deadhorse, the **Sagavanirktok River** curves away to the NE flowing along the base of a line of low bluffs. Photo looks NE.

6:20 PM, 62 miles from Deadhorse – The North Slope Dingo stops at a rare pullout about 0.25 mile N of the top of a big, very gently sloping hill. The river is nowhere in sight here, but a faint rainbow is off to the NE. The boreal tundra is a yellow patchwork of sunlight and fog. As clouds and fog drift by, patterns of light and shadow move W to E across a golden land sliding away to the N. Overhead a patch of blue sky sails by.

No traffic at all lately. Even the hunters don’t seem to be out and about.

62 miles from Deadhorse, the North Slope Dingo spied this faint rainbow. Photo looks ENE.

The boreal tundra is a patchwork of sunlight and shadow as low clouds, fog, and bits of blue sky drift by. Photo looks NNE.

Same view with a little help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

Almost immediately after leaving the faint rainbow and partially sunlit tundra behind, SPHP drives into rain and fog. A few minutes later, the Dalton Highway is paved again, but this time only for a couple of miles. Then it’s back to the usual mud and gravel. 4 or 5 miles later, a sign says road work next 51 miles, basically the rest of the way to Deadhorse. Get stopped by a flagman who says it’s a 20 minute wait.

The flagman has been working here every day since June 9th. $30/hr base pay and $45/hr overtime. Most days are 13 hours, and some are as many as 16. He has seen caribou, musk oxen, wolves, grizzly and polar bears, and lots of birds. Lupe will only have to follow the pilot car for 14 miles. The G6 is the only vehicle following the pilot car once it arrives. The pilot car races along the muddy road at 40 mph.

7:38 PM, 30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse – No traffic at all. The land is very flat. A 2 tiered bluff exists a mile to the E. To the W, nothing but a tiny hill in otherwise level terrain. 6 geese are flying S.

30 to 35 miles from Deadhorse the Dalton Highway is damp, but in good shape. The terrain is like a pancake. Photo looks N.

A mile E of the highway is a 2 tiered bluff. Photo looks ENE.

8:17 PM, 42°F, 15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse – Saw the sun’s position through a weak spot in the clouds about 15 minutes ago. The sun won’t set for another 2.5 hours yet. For the past 10 miles, the Dalton Highway has been on a roadbed raised 15 feet above the surrounding terrain. The terrain is even flatter than before. Most of it appears to be part of a vast swamp, with occasional stretches of open water.

The Sagavanirktok River was briefly in view again lurking near the base of the 2 tier bluff. That bluff ran for miles along the same course before coming to an end. A single tier bluff then picked up again a mile ENE of the highway close to where the 2 tier bluff faded away. It also runs for miles. The bluff is now several miles from the Dalton Highway, hidden by fog.

The sky is uniformly gray. Visibility is only a mile or two. Lupe saw a couple of small buttes off to the W looking like ghosts on the horizon. They didn’t amount to much.

15 to 17 miles from Deadhorse. The Dalton Highway is on a raised roadbed about 15 feet above the surrounding swampy terrain. A fairly large stretch of open water is seen beyond Loop. Photo looks NE.

The Dalton Highway remains on a raised roadbed like this the rest of the way to Deadhorse. The North Slope Dingo was now assured of getting there! Photo looks N.

8:54 PM – Success! It’s like a dream. The North Slope Dingo has made it to the outskirts of Deadhorse. The end of the Dalton Highway is only a couple of miles farther. Lupe is what, maybe 8 miles S of Prudhoe Bay?

Deadhorse is as others have described it to SPHP – an industrial complex almost exclusively dedicated to the energy industry. Nothing resembling a town is in sight. Not a single house or residential street. No business district catering to the public.

The closest thing to a retail business is Deadhorse Camp, which Loop finds near the start of Deadhorse on the L. It’s a hotel of sorts, catering mostly to oilfield workers who essentially live there, but also to members of the public who manage to make it to the end of the Dalton Highway. It’s also where it’s possible to arrange for a shuttle bus tour to the Arctic Ocean.

Success! The North Slope Dingo arrives on the outskirts of **Deadhorse**. As expected, everything in sight has an industrial look to it. No sign of any traditional town at all.

**Deadhorse** is 99% about the energy business and producing oil for the Alaska oil pipeline, which starts here.

One unexpected thing about **Deadhorse** and the energy industry it serves was how spread out it all was. Wide areas of swamp and tundra separate numerous far flung industrial installations.

Geese like to hang out around the Deadhorse Camp building.

Oh, yeah! Here’s proof that the North Slope Dingo made it all the way to **Deadhorse.** Lupe stands outside the Deadhorse Camp building, located on the L side of the Dalton Highway shortly after reaching Deadhorse. This is one of several “hotels” in Deadhorse. They all have a similar appearance. Some only accommodate oilfield workers.

Even though SPHP had been told on the phone before Lupe ever left home that Dingoes aren’t allowed to take the Arctic Ocean tour, SPHP was still planning on asking again for Lupe. Maybe it was still possible with enough in-person groveling or bribery?

The Arctic Ocean shuttle! That was what Loop wanted to take. If she was refused, she would have to send SPHP as her personal representative.

Now that the North Slope Dingo was in Deadhorse, SPHP wasn’t certain exactly what to do. Looking for a gas station seemed like a good place to start. From Deadhorse Camp, SPHP drove farther into Deadhorse. After a couple of bends, the Dalton Highway finally ended at a T intersection. SPHP took a left and eventually stumbled upon the Prudhoe Bay Hotel near the Alaska Airlines terminal at the Deadhorse Airport.

Unused drilling rigs stand lined up across a lake in Deadhorse.

Alaska Airlines seems to be the only airline serving the Deadhorse airport. The terminal was closed when Loop arrived on a Sunday night.

While Lupe remained in the G6, SPHP went into the Prudhoe Bay Hotel seeking information. Signs in the entryway commanded that everyone entering wear disposable boot covers to help keep the place clean. Free, bright blue slip-on boot covers were available from a box. SPHP put a pair on, then went on in.

Long well lit hallways led off in 3 directions. Not a soul was in sight. The front desk turned out to be some distance down the hall straight ahead from the entrance. A clerk gave SPHP a free map of Deadhorse on a single sheet of paper, and circled where the 2 gas stations are located. After thanking the clerk, SPHP wandered the hallways.

A large map of Alaska’s N coast was framed under glass on one wall. It showed the locations of numerous energy installations, and the names of a great many geographical features. Lots of history was provided on who first explored the Alaskan coast and named various islands, points, peninsulas, etc. The map was extraordinarily interesting. SPHP read much of it, which took a while. Meanwhile, absolutely no one came or went in the silent hall.

Light was fading when SPHP returned to Loop, still waiting patiently in the G6. It was starting to get foggy. One of the gas stations was close by. It was a small unmanned facility. SPHP couldn’t even figure out how to work it. Splendid. Oh, well. Can figure it out tomorrow.

Loop and SPHP drove around Deadhorse a bit. There weren’t many roads, yet it seemed like a maze. In growing darkness and gloomy fog, the whole place was sort of eerie. Almost no traffic at all. Now and then a pickup truck or semi truck appeared, then vanished. No one was out and about. Deadhorse was sort of a ghost town, but then it was late on a Sunday night and energy prices were depressed. Maybe like Skagway, Deadhorse would be busier Monday morning?

Lupe and SPHP drove past clusters of energy related service businesses. They were all dark, except for security lights. Widely scattered in the distance were more clusters of buildings, some quite brightly lit. No houses, no businesses of any kind other than energy related companies and a few boxy “hotels”. Weird, kind of creepy, but cool, too.

Returning to the Dalton Highway, SPHP drove back to within sight of Deadhorse Camp. Several pickup trucks with campers were parked at big pullouts overlooking the Sagavanirktok River. Even a few tents were pitched out on the gravel. Apparently it was OK to stay here. Perfect! This would do nicely. SPHP parked the G6. Tomorrow Loopster would explore Deadhorse. SPHP hoped the North Slope Dingo could even get permission to see the Arctic Ocean, but she probably wouldn’t.

Couldn’t hurt to try, though, could it?Want more Lupe adventures? Choose from Lupe’s 2017 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index. Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 227 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Spring Creek to Twin Sisters & Brush Creek (4-29-18)

Start – 9:09 AM, 68°F, Spring Creek trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89

Half a dozen vehicles were at the Spring Creek trailhead off Sheridan Lake Road when Lupe arrived. Apparently the day was going to get off to a busy start, at least by the Carolina Dog’s standards.

Lupe didn’t mind having an opportunity to meet a few people and sniff with other dogs. They were all likely to be concentrated around this first part of the trail along Spring Creek and Sheridan Lake. She would have plenty of solitude soon enough. Loop was eager to get going, and was underway as soon as SPHP was ready.

The Spring Creek trailhead provides access to Flume Trail No. 50 and the 111 mile long Centennial Trail No. 89. A spur trail follows Spring Creek upstream for a mile to Sheridan Lake where intersections with both of the main trails are found. Spring Creek is one of the larger streams in the Black Hills. The upstream trek is easy and beautiful.

By **Spring Creek** only a short distance from the trailhead.

Several beam bridges cross Spring Creek on the way to Sheridan Lake. Before the first bridge a shortcut to the Dakota Point trailhead appears on the R. This seldom used side route is easy to miss, if not looking for it. The shortcut avoids the rest of Spring Creek and Sheridan Lake entirely.

Lupe wasn’t looking for a shortcut now. Water in all its forms lends beauty and tranquility to almost any scene. The American Dingo had plenty of time to take the scenic route. She skipped the shortcut and went on to the first bridge.

On the first beam bridge across **Spring Creek**. Lupe would cross a couple more of these bridges on her way to Sheridan Lake.

Lupe did meet several people and a couple of dogs, but only briefly. A fisherman hadn’t had any luck fishing Spring Creek. Although the sky was overcast, everyone was enjoying the unseasonably warm day.

The spur trail was practically level almost all the way to Sheridan Lake. Near the dam the trail became steeper, but not for long. Loop was soon up on the S end of the dam. She had reached Centennial Trail No. 89.

Lupe arrives at **Sheridan Lake** near the S end of the dam. Photo looks NNE.

Lupe could have taken Centennial Trail No. 89 SE along Sheridan Lake from here. Alternatively, Flume Trail No. 50 branches off just S of the dam. However, the plan was to explore the Centennial Trail N to the Brush Creek trailhead, a distance of nearly 8 miles.

The American Dingo trotted across the dam heading N. At the far end, a winding stone stairway led to the top of a small hill.

Looking S at the Sheridan Lake dam. The hill on the R is **Bluelead Mountain (5,170 ft.)** where Lupe had seen a mountain lion on Leap Day in 2016. The more distant higher hill R of Center is **Calumet Ridge (5,601 ft.)**.

E end of **Sheridan Lake**. Photo looks SW.

Leaving Sheridan Lake behind, Lupe crossed a footbridge over the Spring Creek outlet.

This footbridge spans the narrow chasm where Spring Creek flows out of Sheridan Lake. Lupe crossed it on her way to the Dakota Point trailhead.

After crossing this last bridge over Spring Creek, Lupe had nearly a mile to go on Centennial Trail No. 89 to get to the Dakota Point trailhead. This entire route was on an old road through the forest. For the first 0.5 mile, the road went N up a valley until it reached a saddle. At the saddle, the road leveled out and turned W the rest of the way.

No vehicles were at the Dakota Point trailhead. The road hike from Sheridan Lake to get here had been a bit dull. However, Lupe still had 6.8 miles to go to get to the Brush Creek trailhead, and the trail was about to get more interesting. The trail crossed a gravel road becoming a single track going downhill on the other side.

Being on the single track was more fun. The trail went both up and down in a forest that had been thinned. Overall, Loopster lost a little net elevation by the time she reached Sheridan Lake Road 0.5 mile NW of the Dakota Point trailhead.

After passing the Dakota Point trailhead, Centennial Trail No. 89 becomes a single track for 0.5 mile on the way to Sheridan Lake Road. Photo looks NW.

Once Lupe crossed Sheridan Lake Road, Centennial Trail No. 89 took her NW up a long valley. This was the start of a much more private and less traveled region.

Lupe had hardly gotten started up the valley when she crossed a tiny trickle of a stream. The day was quite warm, very warm if wearing a fashionable fur coat like Lupe was. The tiny stream featured a small, rather slimy green waterhole. The American Dingo was not shy about helping herself to a slimy drink, and a quick slimy, cooling bath.

*Slime? What slime? This is great! Nice and cool!*

Centennial Trail No. 89 followed an abandoned USFS Road up the long valley. The grassy road seemed like a part of nature.

Going up the long valley. Photo looks NW.

The trail continued NW or N following a maze of old roads. Most of this area was forested, but Lupe passed a few meadows, too. At one point she went by a large rock formation on the R. It was the only one, though. This wasn’t rough territory.

Lupe gained elevation steadily at a modest pace. A mile from Sheridan Lake Road she reached a minor crest. Beyond the crest the trail brought her to a large power line.

About a mile from Sheridan Lake Road, Lupe reaches a big power line. Centennial Trail No. 89 follows the power line for a couple hundred yards before disappearing back into the forest on the R. Photo looks NE.

Centennial Trail No. 89 turned NE here, following the power line for 200 yards before heading E back into the forest. Lupe quickly crossed a small saddle before losing elevation slowly as the trail entered a more open region. Stands of aspens were common.

After leaving the power line and crossing a small forested saddle, Lupe enters a shallow valley where aspens were common among the pines. Photo looks ESE.

Much of the Centennial Trail sees only light use. Trail maintenance is spotty. In many places trail markers are missing, have faded or fallen over. Unless some degree of alertness is maintained, it can be easy to miss turns. SPHP sensed Lupe might be approaching one of these places. The trail was going E or even SE. Somewhere around here, it would have to turn N again fairly soon.

The grassy road the trail followed took Loop well into the aspens before she reached the turn N. Fortunately, this turn was marked. Otherwise it would have been so easy to keep following the grassy road SE.

Centennial Trail No. 89 turns N (L) here. Fortunately, the turn is marked by an arrow on the brown wand (R). Photo looks ESE.

As soon as the trail turned N, Lupe began gradually regaining the nearly 100 feet of elevation she had lost on the way down into the aspens. She regained it all and more before reaching another saddle in a pine forest. This saddle was SE of High Point 5302 and SW of High Point 5331.

It was time for a short break. Small rock outcroppings a little SE of the trail seemed like a good spot. Lupe had water. She wasn’t interested in her Taste of the Wild yet, but was quite happy to help SPHP out with that chocolate granola bar.

Although there had been sections of downhill on the way here, none of them had been too significant. For the most part, Lupe had been gaining elevation. She was now at 5,200 feet, the highest point she would reach while actually on Centennial Trail No. 89 all day.

At the high point of Centennial Trail No. 89 between the Brush Creek trailhead and Sheridan Lake. Lupe’s at 5,200+ feet here. Photo looks N.

When break time was over, Lupe started the first significant downhill stretch she’d come to all day. At first, on the steepest part of the decline, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed an old road. Once Looper had lost 200 feet going generally N, the trail swung E while losing another 150 feet.

After losing more than 200 feet of elevation from the high point, Centennial Trail No. 89 leaves the road here to skirt the hillside on the L. Photo looks E.

Although the Black Hills are full of deadfall timber resulting from a pine bark beetle infestation, Lupe came to very little deadfall on the portion of Centennial Trail No. 89 that she explored today. This short stretch was an exception. Photo looks ENE.

0.75 mile from the high point where Lupe had taken her short break, Centennial Trail No. 89 bottomed out. It now started up a valley that led NNE. Lupe was about to enter the Bald Hills, an area of grasslands covering 2+ square miles within the Black Hills National Forest. She soon arrived at a saddle E of Twin Sisters (5,244 ft.).

Centennial Trail No. 89 passes right by the **Twin Sisters**. The **E Twin Sister** is the hill seen here. Photo looks WSW.

The E Twin Sister is the highest, and sits along the edge of the Bald Hills. Centennial Trail No. 89 goes right by it. This was an opportunity for Lupe to get a little peakbagging in! Loop and SPHP left the trail and made the short climb to the top.

Loop arrives at the summit of the **E Twin Sister**. **Peak 5800** is seen on the L. The lower grasslands are part of the area known as the Bald Hills. Photo looks WNW.

**Peak 5800** is on the L. The most distant forested hill R of Center is the mountain Lupe knows as **New Year’s Eve Peak (6,046 ft.)**. Photo looks WNW.

The summit of the E Twin Sister was a short ridge running N/S. Deadfall timber littered the entire N end, and part of the S end, too. A patch of ground right at the true summit was open and only a bit rocky. Many dead trees had fallen over, but enough dead and live pines were still standing to mar the views in most directions.

Still, this wasn’t a bad vantage point. Lupe could see a number of peaks she had been to before. She also enjoyed a commanding view of the Bald Hills to the E.

**Five Points (6,221 ft.)** (L of Center) is on the horizon. The nearest ridge beyond Lupe is the lower **W Twin Sister**. Photo looks SW.

Lupe liked this commanding view of the **Bald Hills**. Photo looks E.

The temperature must have been in the 70’s °F. The physical exertion of following the trail and climbing E Twin Sister was enough to make it seem very warm. Lupe and SPHP were both ready for water and a longer break. The Carolina Dog thought maybe it would be best to eat the other chocolate granola bar right now before the chocolate melted. That seemed like a good idea, and the deed was done.

The heat made Loop and SPHP lazy. Twin Sisters was a nice spot with at least some views. Why not relax a bit? Lupe laid down next to SPHP. She enjoyed being petted while scanning the Bald Hills below for any signs of movement. A few insects buzzed by. The warm air and light breeze felt good when you weren’t doing anything.

SPHP woke up. The American Dingo was still right there. She hadn’t moved a muscle. The sky had been overcast when Lupe arrived up on Twin Sisters, but now it was sunny. That really had been a nice break, but it was time to get going. Loop and SPHP headed NE down toward Centennial Trail No. 89.

After a nice long break up on Twin Sisters, Lupe heads back down to Centennial Trail No. 89. Photo looks NE.

Centennial Trail No. 89 headed NE losing elevation as it crossed the Bald Hills. It looked like it was going to go down a long valley, but instead curved E. The trail climbed again staying in the Bald Hills a little longer before turning N and heading for the trees. Before it reached the forest, Lupe took another look back at Twin Sisters.

Looking back across the Bald Hills toward **Twin Sisters** (L), **Peak 5800** (Center) & **New Year’s Eve Peak** (R). Photo looks SW.

0.5 mile NE of Twin Sisters, Centennial Trail No. 89 entered the forest once more. Lupe lost elevation gradually over the next 0.5 mile. The trail rounded a ridge and came to a tiny Dingo-sized forest.

Approaching the tiny forest. Photo looks NNW.

After climbing through the tiny forest, Lupe reached a saddle where she crossed a gravel road. On the other side Centennial Trail No. 89 began losing elevation again. The Carolina Dog was now on the final stretch approaching Brush Creek.

Near the start of the final stretch leading down to Brush Creek. Photo looks N.

*I’ll have you know this was a very exciting part of the trail. I found a squirrel!* Photo looks N.

Before long, Lupe was at Brush Creek. Brush Creek didn’t amount to much. Hardly a trickle. However, there were a couple of nice pools of water. The Carolina Dog was glad to see them!

*I was so thirsty after barking at that squirrel!*

*Maybe we should follow streams all the time now that it’s getting warm out? So nice to be able to cool off!*

The Brush Creek trailhead was across a gravel road from Brush Creek. One vehicle was here, but no one was around. The trailhead featured a map and information about Centennial Trail No. 89.

Centennial Trail No. 89 winds 111 miles from Bear Butte near Sturgis, SD to Wind Cave National Park in the southern Black Hills.

At the Brush Creek trailhead, Lupe was somewhere around 8.5 miles from where she’d started out at the Spring Creek trailhead this morning. This was far enough for one day, since she now had to go all the way back. When SPHP was done looking at the posted map and information about the trail, Lupe set off again. This time she was heading S.

By the time Loopster made it back to the Bald Hills, the sunny day had vanished. A thunderstorm was approaching out of the SSW.

A thunderstorm was approaching out of the SSW by the time Lupe made it back to the **Bald Hills**. The **E Twin Sister** is dead ahead. Photo looks SW.

Loop and SPHP left the trail to take a shortcut across the Bald Hills to Twin Sisters (5,244 ft.). The original plan had been to climb both the E and W Twin Sisters on the return trip, but with the storm approaching, Lupe would be lucky to beat it to just the E Twin Sister.

People were shooting guns somewhere off to the E not too far away. Lupe couldn’t see them, but the sound of gunfire so close by made her a nervous wreck. She wanted to find a place to hide, but SPHP urged her on toward the E Twin Sister.

Pasque flowers, the state flower of South Dakota, were blooming out on the Bald Hills.

When Loopster reached the summit of the E Twin Sister again, she felt better. The gunfire was far away now. She really wasn’t as safe as she thought, though. Trees swayed in a gusty S wind, light rain was falling, thunder rumbled, and occasional lightning flashes could be seen only a few miles away.

Back at the summit of **E Twin Sister** for the 2nd time today. Photo looks NW.

**Five Points** on the horizon seen through light rain. Photo looks SW.

**Five Points (6,221 ft.)**. Photo looks SW.

Although the storm wasn’t bad yet, due to the lightning SPHP was eager to leave the summit almost as soon as Lupe arrived. All thoughts of climbing the W Twin Sister had gone out the window, too.

When SPHP started down, Lupe didn’t follow. She wanted to stay. She felt safe from the gunfire here, and apparently had fond memories of the earlier nap on E Twin Sister. Clearly, the Carolina Dog was hoping for a repeat performance.

Despite the storm, Loopster wanted to stay up here on **E Twin Sister**. She was looking forward to another nap!

Loopster still had a long way to go. Even if there hadn’t been a storm, there wasn’t time for another nap. SPHP coaxed Loop into returning to the trail.

The storm struck only a glancing blow. It rained, but never too hard. After a while the sun came out. The air was cool now. It was evening. The secluded trek along Centennial Trail No. 89 was wonderful. Loop saw deer and wild turkeys. She went on and on, sniffing happily.

Another storm came and went, striking another glancing blow. Lupe got wet, but not soaked. Near the end of the day, she took the shortcut leading down to the spur trail near the first bridge over Spring Creek. The sun was down and light was fading by the time Lupe was closing in on the Spring Creek trailhead again. It wasn’t dark when she arrived back at the G6, but would be soon. (8:06 PM, 52°F)

Time to head home for Alpo, and a night dreaming of days yet to come on Centennial Trail No. 89.