Into the Arctic Apocalypse! – To Eagle Plains, Yukon Territory, Canada (8-6-23 to 8-8-23)

Days 15, 16 & Part 1 of Day 17 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-6-23, 6:03 AM, 62ºF, Steese Highway at the Twelvemile Summit Wayside, Alaska – Lupe was already awake, panting on her pink blanket.

About time you woke up, SPHP.  Can you please open the RAV4’s windows and let some air in here?  I’m roasting!

Sorry, Miss Hot-Blooded.  Seemed like a mighty comfortable night to me.  Yes, I’ll open the windows as soon as we get going.  The mosquitoes are bad, which is why they’re closed in the first place.

So, where are we going today, anyway, SPHP?

Fairbanks first.  We can get some weather forecasts there, and maybe find out if there’s anywhere we can escape this endless smoke.

8-6-23, 1:15 PM, 76ºF, Fairbanks, Alaska –

Any decision yet, SPHP?  You’ve been dithering for hours!  It’s hot in here even with the windows open when we’re not moving.

I know it, but the situation is just incredible, Loopster!  Who would have thought that we would run into the worst air quality in North America this far N?  Rain expected almost every day in SW Alaska, which doesn’t do us any good, and hot and smoky almost everywhere else, even up in the Brooks Range for the next few days.  Heavy rains incoming after that.

There must be someplace where it isn’t raining or on fire, SPHP.

Yes, way down by Whitehorse and Haines Junction in the Yukon, the air quality and weather are both lovely.  Would be wonderful, if we were on our way back home, Looper, but we’re not.

Well, what about the Dempster Highway, SPHP?  Are things any better there yet?

The air quality map says it’s still smoky all the way from Dawson City to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop.  An apocalypse all the way to the Arctic Ocean!  It’s unbelievable!  Always dreamed of having some decent weather so we could climb a few peaks in the Richardson Range.  Yet now that it’s finally warm and dry in that territory instead of the usual freezing rain and snow we’ve encountered there before, the boreal forests and tundra are on fire, and the smoke is terrible.

So, what are we going to do then, SPHP?  Just sit here wasting time?

No, right or wrong, I’ll make up my mind one way or another shortly, Loopster.  Promise!

SPHP did decide, but before even getting out of Fairbanks turned the RAV4 around, reversing the decision.

No Brooks Range, SPHP?

Love the Brooks Range!  You know that, Loop, but we were there last year.  This was supposed to be the year the Most High Exalted Dingo of the Arctic Sisterhood returned to Tuktoyaktuk.  I guess we may as well try it.  After all, how many warm, dry years are we going to have a shot at in the Richardson Mountains?  This might be our only chance to do much of anything there.  Maybe we’ll get lucky, and the smoke won’t be that bad by the time we get there?

I’ve never been to an Arctic apocalypse before, SPHP.  Maybe it will be fun?

Count your blessings, Loopster.  Apocalypses usually don’t have that much to commend them, but we’ll see.

8-6-23, 2:42 PM, Alaska Highway, halfway to Delta Junction – The smoke thickened, the sky turned an eerie orange, and it got noticeably darker.

What’s happening, SPHP?  Have we reached the apocalypse already?

I don’t know.  Seems that way, doesn’t it, Looper?

Suddenly, the smoke was no longer down on the highway, but looming menacingly overhead.  A few miles farther, SPHP stopped at a pullout along the Tanana River.  Lupe leapt out of the RAV4 for a look.  Beyond the river, an enormous plume of smoke was rising from unseen fires off to the NW.

The apocalypse from along the Tanana River. Photo looks NW.

Hah!  Look at that, Loop!  Appears we’re already leaving the apocalypse behind us.

Oh, I hope so, SPHP!  Didn’t think it would be this easy.

Air quality was greatly improved on the way to Tok, and remained the best it had been since way back at Telkwa Microwave Mountain in British Columbia after turning onto the Taylor Highway.  A bit of haze, but Mount Fairplay was easily visible from a great distance against a blue sky when Lupe reached a pullout on a high ridge with a view.

Mount Fairplay (Center). Photo looks NNE.

Maybe you made the right choice, SPHP?  The air is definitely much clearer now than when we climbed Mount Fairplay 4 days ago.

Oh, yeah!  Undisputable.  We couldn’t have seen Mount Fairplay at all from here back then, Loop.

The improvement in air quality was most encouraging, but by the time Lupe reached Chicken, another plume of smoke was visible.  It turned out to be farther off than it first seemed, and SPHP eventually drove past that region.  However, another plume of smoke appeared N of the Top of the World Highway shortly before reaching the Canadian border.

8-6-23, 8:35 PM, Top of the World Highway – Customs closed at 6:00 PM, so Lupe had arrived much too late to enter Canada today.  SPHP parked the RAV4 at a pullout a mile W of the border.  NW of this pullout, a huge expanse of territory was in view.  It was all somewhat smoky, and many small plumes could be seen rising from a hill only a few miles away.

Every now and then, a towering bright orange flame would flare up briefly on that hill before dying away within a few minutes.  The air was much clearer to the SE, protected by a breeze that kept the smoke away.  After hanging around the pullout for nearly an hour and seeing a fox trot through it, which was pretty exciting, it getting on toward sunset.

We ought to climb Davis Dome (4,124 ft.), SPHP!  For an apocalypse, it’s a lovely evening, and I’ve been cooped up in the RAV4 most of the day.

Great minds think alike, Loopster!  Let’s do it!

Davis Dome was no big deal – an easy romp!  Located immediately WSW of the pullout, less than 300 feet of elevation gain got Lupe to the top.

Davis Dome (Center) from the Top of the World Highway. Photo looks WSW.
Starting up. Photo looks WSW.

8-6-23, 9:39 PM, Davis Dome (4,124 ft.) The summit region was big, round, flat, and covered with tundra and small rocks.  There were a few things to see up here in addition to the unobstructed expansive views.  Conducting a clockwise tour, the first item of interest along this route was an odd green shack near the SW edge.

Part of the Davis Dome summit region. Photo looks SW.
By the mysterious green shack. Photo looks SSW.

We’ve seen other sheds like this before, SPHP.  I presume it has something to do with the weather or communications like you always tell me?

Yes, I suppose so.  I don’t actually know what any of them are for, Loop.  Just a guess.

Two cairns were over by the N edge of the summit region.  The largest cairn sat on a big rock that had a survey benchmark attached to it.  And that was about it for highlights other than the views.  Rounded hills and ridges, most of them lower, extended to the horizon in all directions.

Hills and ridges to the W.

While these vast empty scenes were all amazing, a couple of views stood out.  Canadian and US customs over by two hills 1.5 mile NE, and looking off to the NW, an orange sun setting beyond the smoking hill.

On the biggest cairn. Survey benchmark (Center). US/Canadian customs is over by the two hills on the R. Photo looks NE.
Davis Dome survey benchmark. Sadly, no “Walker” stamp as shown on the maps.
A smoking sunset from the small cairn. Photo looks NW.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NW.

20 minutes on Davis Dome, and the show was over.  The sun was gone.

Getting late, Loop.  Already 10:00 PM.  Might as well head back.  Another long drive ahead of us tomorrow.

Are we going to be making any stops along the way, SPHP?

Sure, Looper, but exactly when, where, and for how long all depends on what we find.  No big adventures if it’s really smoky.

About to head back down to the RAV4. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 12:30 AM – SPHP woke suddenly to a low growl.  A waxing moon was shining brightly in the E.  At a 90º angle, a bit of twilight remained visible far to the N.  Seemed a peculiar arrangement for a night sky, but not unusual in Alaska.  Hackles up, Lupe was alert, watching.  Something was out there in the night!  Considerably larger than the fox seen earlier, a coyote, or maybe a wolf, was slinking its way across the pullout.  The American Dingo exploded into a barking frenzy.

A wolf, SPHP!  A real live wild wolf!

You’re a great watch Dingo, Looper, but forget it!  Not letting you out there to tangle with that!

8-7-23, 7:41 AM, 64ºF – Davis Dome made a great morning constitutional, in addition to offering a first glimpse of what the day had in store.  Off to the N, smoke drifted lazily in the valleys, while more billowed up toward the NW.

Morning view of the apocalypse from Davis Dome. Photo looks N.

Mordor as seen from afar, Looper.

Mordor?  Such drama, SPHP!  Look at that incredible blue sky above it all.  Everyone knows Mordor doesn’t have skies like that.

Me, drama?  Really, Loop?  What about your gut-busting barking frenzy last night?

Totally justified.  That wolf was real, SPHP!

8-7-23, 11:32 AM, 74ºF – As usual, the Carolina Dog had sailed through Canadian customs without a hitch.  After a break for Ritz Crackers and cheese (Dingoes love crackers and cheese!) on the first big hill the Top of the World Highway climbed after entering Yukon Territory, SPHP hadn’t made any other stops.  Smoke marred the views during the entire drive to the Yukon River where Lupe now stood waiting for the George Black Ferry to Dawson City.

Blue skies overhead, but the smoke wasn’t any better down in the river valley than it had been 5 days ago.

Waiting for the George Black Ferry (L) on the Yukon River. Photo looks ENE.

I know it’s smoky, but while we’re in Dawson, can we at least check out the views from Midnight Dome (2,887 ft.), SPHP?

But of course, Sweet Puppy, the smoke isn’t that bad, and Midnight Dome is a tradition.  Basically just a drive up, so it won’t take all that long.

Yukon River (L & Center) from Midnight Dome near Dawson City. Photo looks SW.

8-7-23, 1:12 PM, 81ºF – After leaving Dawson City, air quality improved dramatically during the drive E to the start of the Dempster Highway.

Display at the start of the Dempster Highway. Photo looks E.

Wow!  Can it be?  Maybe the apocalypse has moved on, Loopster.

Uh, no.  The journey N on the Dempster had barely begun when a huge plume of smoke came into view.  A SE breeze was driving it straight at the Ogilvie Mountains.  By KM 25, they could scarcely be seen at all.

Entering Tombstone Territorial Park. Dempster Highway KM 48. Photo looks N.

Figures.  We’ll see what they have to say at the Tombstone Interpretive Center, Loop.

It’s not looking good, SPHP.

Yeah, maybe we’re crazy coming all the way back here, Looper.

Speak for yourself, SPHP.  I’m just along for the adventures!

8-7-23, 3:47 PM, 74ºF, Tombstone Interpretive Centre, KM 71

Any news, SPHP?

Yup.  Not good news, though.  Guess I was nuts for coming back all this way.  They say the forecast is still for widespread heat and smoke.  Chance of rain in a few days, but we’re not going to just sit here hoping for that to actually happen.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?

We’re just going to keep driving N hoping for improvement, Loop.

And if we don’t get any?  Then what, SPHP?

We’re committed now, Looper.  Suppose we’ll simply drive all the way to Tuktoyaktuk and take a walk along the Arctic Ocean.  Then we’ll have one last shot at conditions being better on the way back S.

Into the heart of the Arctic apocalypse then, SPSP?

Looks that way, Sweet Puppy.

The smoke was bad all the way through the Ogilvie Mountains.  Lupe stared out the window as the RAV4 rolled past the sites of many terrific former adventures.  Goldensides, Angelcomb, Surfbird, Peak 5262, Windy Pass Peak.  In a thick haze, none of them bore the same appeal today.  SPHP did stop for a little while at the bubbling pond several KM before Surfbird Mountain so the American Dingo could have a sniff.

At the bubbling pond. Photo looks E.

Lupe was already on the way down the N side of the range by the time SPHP was willing to stop for some scenic river views.  Engineer Creek and its mineral-laden orange tan waters was first.  When Sapper Hill (3,084 ft.) came into view, it wasn’t much farther to the Ogilvie River.  All of the drought-stricken rivers and streams were running way lower than Lupe had ever seen them before.

By Engineer Creek, still the same orange tan color, but a mere shadow of its former self. Photo looks S.
Approaching Sapper Hill (R of Center). Photo looks NNW.
Sapper Hill (Center) from the Ogilvie River bridge. Photo looks ESE.

The Ogilvie River bridge goes right over the confluence with Engineer Creek, and provides an interesting view of the dramatic color contrast in the downstream direction before the waters mix.  Lupe went out on the bridge for a look.

Upstream view of the Ogilvie River. Photo looks SW.
Downstream view right after Engineer Creek joins in from the R. Photo looks NNE.

Careful, Loopster, and stay close!  Let’s be quick about this.  Seems like there’s 5 or 10 times as much traffic as there used to be.

Everyone else is discovering the Dempster Highway, too, SPHP, ever since the all-season extension from Inuvik to the Arctic Ocean at Tuktoyaktuk.

I know it, Loop.  Can’t blame them for coming, the views from the highway alone are an epic adventure!

True enough, when there isn’t an Arctic Apocalypse going on and you can actually see them, SPHP.

Yeah, that’s been the whole problem lately, hasn’t it, Looper?

Two young men were relaxing under the Ogilvie River bridge.  SPHP had a chat with them.

Sapper Hill (Center & R) from the Ogilvie River. Photo looks E.

What did they say, SPHP?

They’re in the process of bicycling all the way to Tuktoyaktuk, Loop.  Some people do such amazing things!

Not sure that’s such a great idea during an apocalypse, SPHP, even though we’re here, too.

Yeah, they were complaining about the never-ending smoke, Loopster.  I can’t imagine how much particulate they must be inhaling.  Can’t be good!

Leaving the mountains wasn’t helping.  Churchward Hill was visible from the Elephant Rock rest area, a mere pullout along the Ogilvie River, but the Dempster Highway was all heat, dust, and smoke as the journey down the river valley continued.

Churchward Hill (Center) from the Ogilvie River. Photo looks NNE.
The typical Dempster Highway Arctic apocalypse view.

8-7-23, 8:11 PM. Dempster Highway KM 259 – Surprisingly, no one was around after the big climb along Seven Mile Hill when Lupe reached the Ogilvie Ridge rest area.  Normally there was a grand view of the Ogilvie and Peel river valley, as well as the N side of the Ogilvie Mountains, from here.  Nothing to be seen today except particulate.

Two ravens hoping for a handout provided amusement.

At the Ogilvie Ridge viewpoint and rest area.
One of the two bold ravens.

Whatever you do, SPHP, don’t ask either of these ravens if we’ll ever see blue sky again.  You know what they’ll say!

Indeed I do, Loopster.  Not going to make that mistake!

With precious little to be seen here today other than the ravens and a few informational plaques on display, Lupe was soon on her way again.

Still time enough for a quick adventure today, Looper.

Really?  What kind of adventure, SPHP?

The Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) high point is actually still some distance ahead.  Won’t be long before we’ll be in that area.  The Dempster Highway gets fairly close to the summit.  Without much of an effort, we could tag it, just to say we’ve been there.  What do you think?

Sounds good to me, SPHP.  At least it’s something!

8-7-23, 8:40 PM, 74ºF – When a tower came into view on a nearby hill ahead, SPHP slowed down, looking for an access road on the L.  Going around a bend, sure enough, there it was!  SPHP parked the RAV4.

This is going to be even easier than I thought, Loop.  Didn’t know that this would be a road hike.

Parked at the start of the Ogilvie Ridge tower access road. Photo looks NE.

Immediately upon setting out, the access road curved E, then continued that way for nearly a KM before making a sweeping 180º curve N and back around to the W.  The microwave tower was once again in view ahead.  The Ogilvie Ridge summit was, too, somewhat beyond it.

Heading up the access road. Photo looks E.
The microwave tower appears ahead. Ogilvie Ridge summit (R). Photo looks NW.

At the end of the access road, Lupe went around the fence enclosing the tower before heading NW across a brushy meadow toward the summit.  Instead of a featureless, gently rounded dome, SPHP was surprised to see that Ogilvie Ridge’s summit sported some rock formations.

Approaching the Ogilvie Ridge summit. Photo looks NW.
A nice little scramble to the top. Photo looks WSW.

8-7-23, 9:05 PM, Ogilvie Ridge (3,048 ft.) – Three cairns were up here, the first one toward the SE, right where Lupe came up.  The others sat next to each other a bit farther NW.  The microwave tower was in view from any of them, as well as a decent-sized, flat, rocky summit plateau that extended a short distance N.

Due to the apocalypse, distant views were limited to the hazy outlines of hills a few miles away, or of nothing at all, depending on the direction.

By the SE cairn. Photo looks SW.
The microwave tower from the lone cairn. Photo looks SE.
Twin cairns (Center) next to Lupe, most of the summit plateau (foreground), and the best distant view (L) under the circumstances. Photo looks NNW.

Congratulations, Loopster!  May I shake your paw?  Can’t be too many Dingoes that have ever stood on the Ogilvie Ridge summit.

Certainly, SPHP!  And might I remind you that it’s chocolate coconut bar time?

Ogilvie Ridge is such an easy romp that I didn’t even bring the pack, Loop.

A chocolate coconut bar would have fit in your pocket, SPHP.

Disappointingly, an exploratory stroll about the summit plateau yielded no sign of the survey benchmark that was supposed to be up here.  And that was about it for Ogilvie Ridge.  After a brief stay, Lupe scrambled back down the same way she’d come up, and headed back to the road.

A look from above at the rock formations where Lupe came up. Taken from the lone cairn. Photo looks NE.

8-7-23, 11:08 PM, Ogilvie Ridge – The smoke was so terrible by the time the trip journal was caught up, how far away the wildfires of the Arctic apocalypse could actually be was a real question.  Perhaps worryingly close.  SPHP had spoken to quite a few people during the day.  Like Lupe, everyone was going to Tuktoyaktuk, had been there already, or turned back before reaching Eagle Plains, because the smoke had been ghastly.  Hard to know what tomorrow, or even tonight, would bring.

8-8-23, 6:23 AM, 62ºF, Ogilvie Ridge – Well, not much of a change so far.  The smoke was still awful.

At least we didn’t burn to a crisp last night, Looper.  I was beginning to wonder.  Onward, Sweet Puppy?

Onward, SPHP!

During the long drive to Eagle Plains, the Dempster Highway stayed up on big rounded ridges connecting various high points along the way.  It was a winding, up and down journey.  SPHP actually had several more hills in mind for mid-apocalypse entertainment that the Carolina Dog could tag for some rare Yukon Territory peakbagging credit.  These hills were all among the highest along their stretch of the highway.

8-8-23, 7:39 AM, 58ºF – First up was Aitch Hill (2,198 ft.), roughly 40 miles beyond the Ogilvie Ridge summit.  Shortly before reaching where the Dempster Highway topped out only 0.25 mile S of Aitch’s summit, a nice roomy pullout appeared on the L.

Here, we go, Loopster!  Perfect spot to stash the RAV4 during our romp.

About to set out for Aitch Hill on another lovely apocalypse morning. Photo looks ESE.

Taking advantage of the road, Lupe followed the Dempster Highway NE a short distance before climbing a small embankment and plunging NW into the boreal forest.

Following the Dempster Highway before venturing L into the forest. Photo looks NE.

Aitch Hill was a blast!  The American Dingo had a fabulous time sniffing her way first NW, then NNE in search of the true summit through a maze of narrow open lanes between the trees and bushes.  No human junk cluttering up the mountain here!  Aitch Hill was still wild.

There wasn’t even a cairn when Lupe reached what seemed to be about the highest point in a vast, almost level, forested region.  SPHP built one.

Lupe by her cairn at the Aitch Hill true summit, to the extent it could be determined. Photo looks ESE.

The point where Lupe’s new cairn sat was a little SW of where SPHP had guessed the location of the true summit when entering Aitch Hill into the Peakbagger.com database.  Wandering NE, it was impossible to tell if this area was any higher.  Might as well head back.  Turning E in search of the highway, Lupe quickly reached the edge of a 20 foot depression.

Along the rim of the Aitch Hill depression. Photo looks SSE.

Staying on the high ground, the American Dingo followed the rim of the depression S until she could turn E again, soon reaching the Dempster Highway on top of a steep 20 foot high bank.  Turning SW, Lupe followed this edge, too, until the bank shrank away enough to enable a road hike the rest of the way back to the RAV4.

8-8-23, 9:08 AM, 64ºF, Peak 815M (2,674 ft.) – After spotting another tower on a high point only 8 miles past Aitch Hill, SPHP made a L turn off the Dempster Highway onto a road that went 0.1 mile to where it split into 3 roads.  Two of them led directly to a huge gravel highway maintenance yard.  The third road angled uphill off to the R.

That must be the way to the tower we saw, Looper.

About to set off for Peak 815M via the road seen at far R. Photo looks N.

After a bit of steepness right at the start, Lupe followed the road’s gentle incline NE to where it hooked ESE the rest of the way to the tower at Peak 815M’s summit less than 0.5 mile from the RAV4.

The microwave tower atop Peak 815M. Photo looks SE.

Looks like the true summit is inside the fence, Loopster.

So it does, SPHP, and you know what?  How much higher can it be than where we’re standing right now?  A few feet at most.  Close enough for Dingo work, I’m claiming it!  Shake my paw, and we’re outta here!

8-8-23, 10:14 AM, 65ºF – The morning’s final peak was the best, and by far the most daring, Arctic apocalyptic experience of all.  11.5 miles past Peak 815M, SPHP turned L again onto a wide side road directly across the Dempster Highway from Corbett Hill’s NW slope.

Parked along the side road. Dempster Highway (L). Photo looks S.

Are you out of your mind, SPHP?  It’s still on fire!

Just a little smoke, Loopster.  We’re used to it by now, aren’t we?

Where there’s smoke there’s fire, SPHP!  Let’s skip this one.

Eh, looks to me like the fire largely burnt itself out in the past few days, Looper.  We’ll be fine.  It’s only a little over 0.5 mile to the summit.  Won’t take us long.  If anything flares up at all, or if it gets breezy, we’ll come right back.  Promise.

The American Dingo was leery, but followed SPHP up into the freshly charred forest.

Starting up Corbett Hill’s NW slope. Photo looks SE.

Lupe soon got used to the blackened tundra.  Showers of brown needles fell off the trees whenever SPHP brushed up against them.  Only parts of Corbett Hill had burned, leaving patches of both charred and untouched tundra and forest.

Exploring still smoldering Corbett Hill. Photo looks E.

Lupe passed several 6 to 8 foot deep pits, 20 feet wide and 40 feet long, dug by machinery for some unfathomable reason.  There were no roads to them.  More than halfway to the summit, she reached a big clearing.

The big clearing on the way to the summit. Photo looks SE.

If this doesn’t look like an Arctic apocalypse, I don’t know what does, SPHP!

Have to agree, Looper.  Seems incredible, doesn’t it?  Sure isn’t what the word “Arctic” typically brings to mind.

8-8-23, 10:43 AM, 65ºF, Corbett Hill (2,497 ft.)Lupe rested comfortably on a patch of unburned tundra next to a metal tripod at the apparent true summit.  A survey marker was centered directly below the tripod.

At Corbett Hill’s summit.
The Corbett Hill survey marker.

Congratulations, Loopster!  Corbett Hill!  Told ya we’d make it.  Safe as a mouse in church.

Maybe so, SPHP.  It’s certainly been an unusual adventure.  Kind of freaked me out, but I don’t really mind it at all now.  Still might be a good idea to head back soon, though.

Oh, we’re going to, Loop.  Eagle Plains is only 3 miles from Corbett Hill.  I’m looking forward to lunch at the Arctic Circle Restaurant.  I’ll make sure you get a treat, too.

Well, what are we waiting for then?  Onward!  SPHP, ho!

8-8-23, 11:38 AM, 68ºF, Dempster Highway KM 369 – Eagle Plains was sure different from the other times Lupe had been here.  Usually it was soaking wet and frigid, sometimes snowing hard and even threatening to become a blizzard.  In these modern days of the Arctic apocalypse, though, Eagle Plains was smoky, warm, and dry.

At the Eagle Plains Hotel.

After SPHP filled the RAV4 with fuel ($2.15 CAN per liter), Lupe got to go into the Eagle Plains Hotel with SPHP.  She didn’t enter the restaurant, but got to meet some of the denizens in the lobby.

In the hotel lobby.
One of the residents and new friend.
Outside the entrance to the Arctic Circle Restaurant.

SPHP did enter the restaurant.  Had a Reuben sandwich and a Coke.

Entering the Arctic Circle Restaurant.
The dining area.

Prices were high, service was slow, portions were small, but everyone was friendly, and it was good!  The Arctic Circle Restaurant and Eagle Plains Hotel were the only such services between Dawson City and Inuvik, an island of civilization in a truly vast wilderness.  Lupe and SPHP were lucky to be here!  (Note: Fuel is available from 2 automated stations at the start of the Dempster Highway.)

8-8-23, 12:58 PM, 71ºF, Eagle Plains – As promised, Lupe got her treat, a Dingo stick.  A white dog outside the hotel got one, too.

Nice, but next time get me a Reuben sandwich, too, SPHP.  What’s next on our apocalypse tour?

Only 35 KM to the Arctic Circle, Loopster.  We’ll be there within the hour!

On Corbett Hill during the Arctic apocalypse, Yukon Territory, Canada 8-8-23

Links

Next Adventure               Prior Adventure

Eagle Plains Hotel

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Top of the World Highway

The Taylor Highway

Lupe’s Davis Dome GPS Track (8-6-23)

Lupe’s Ogilvie Ridge GPS Track (8-7-23)

Lupe’s Aitch Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)

Lupe’s Peak 815M GPS Track (8-8-23)

Lupe’s Corbett Hill GPS Track (8-8-23)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 329 – Redbird Canyon to Dumbuk Ridge (5-11-24)

7:22 AM – The Carolina Dog stood smiling in the sunshine, the cloudless sky a deep blue above her, the still morning air cool and fresh.

This must be Redbird Canyon, SPHP!  Look at those gorgeous red cliffs!

Redbird Canyon. Photo looks N.

Simply splendid, Looper, but I think I messed up.  This is Redbird Canyon alright, but the road we’re on appears to be someone’s private driveway.

Lupe had to return to the RAV4.  SPHP then backed out to where the road forked.  SPHP had found all the private property signs pointing to the R a bit confusing.  That was where USFS Road No. 376 went, though, which was quickly confirmed as SPHP drove farther up the canyon.

Going around a curve 1.5 miles beyond the driveway mistakenly taken, another fabulous view was ahead.

Not quite as red, but another impressive canyon wall. Photo looks NW.

So beautiful!  Why not start from here, SPHP?

If we want to have a realistic shot at getting to Dumbuk Ridge (6,280 ft.), I don’t think that’s wise, Loop.  It would be a very long march from here.  We’ll be much better off driving at least a few more miles up the canyon.

Easier said than done!  Once beyond this second view, Redbird Canyon narrowed considerably.  USFS Road No. 376 deteriorated to a single lane track.  Ordinarily it still would have been fine, but as the primitive road snaked up the narrow canyon there were signs that a powerful storm had passed through the area in just the last day or two.

Traumatized young pines hung over No. 376, scraping both sides of the RAV4 as SPHP drove cautiously through a series of huge mud puddles.  A particularly long underwater stretch soon appeared ahead, crowded by bent trees creating a tunnel effect.  SPHP hesitated.

Dang!  Would be a real disaster to get stuck in here, Loop.  I had no idea that we ought to expect anything like this.

Don’t get us stuck, SPHP!  Not worth it!

Despite the water, the road really hadn’t been all that soft so far.  SPHP gambled that the RAV4 wouldn’t sink in some super mucky spot before reaching the other end.

Hah!  Made it, Loopster!

Lucky, SPHP!  You should have been buying lottery tickets today!

Still not out of the woods yet, though.  As No. 376 kept winding steadily higher, plenty of blowdown had fallen partially over it.  Often there was just enough room to squeeze by.  Nevertheless, as progress continued, SPHP grew optimistic.

We’re gaining a descent amount of elevation, Looper.  If we can just keep putsing along a little farther, I bet we’ll come to the end of this mess.

It seemed SPHP was about to be proven correct when, after rounding a curve, the undeniable end was directly ahead.  As usual, buying lottery tickets wouldn’t have been such a hot idea after all.

End of the line. Photo looks WNW.

7:53 AM, 46ºF, USFS Road No. 376 in Redbird Canyon – Fortunately a spot just large enough to park the RAV4 was along the R side of the road.

Appears we’re in for a very long day, Loop.

Didn’t seem to bother the American Dingo in the least.  SPHP grabbed the pack, and Lupe was on her way.

A final glance back at the RAV4 while setting out for Dumbuk Ridge. Photo looks ESE.

Excited and happy to be out in the hills on such a beautiful morning, Lupe led the way.  SPHP had been right, after all.  Within 0.25 mile, the Carolina Dog leapt over the last of the blowdown, and USFS Road No. 376 was perfectly fine after that as the canyon widened out again.

Beyond the last obstacles, continuing up Redbird Canyon on USFS Road No. 376. Photo looks NE.

I’m surprised you didn’t call this adventure off when we hit the roadblock, SPHP.  Why didn’t you?  Or isn’t it that far to Dumbuk Ridge anymore?

Well, the RAV4 at least got far enough to shorten the distance somewhat, Loop.  Even so, Dumbuk Ridge is still a long march.  However, since it’s nearly all a road hike, I’m thinking we’ll be able to make excellent time.

Seemed like a good bet.  A quick 0.75 mile, and a junction with USFS Road No. 376.2B appeared on the R.

At the first junction. USFS Road No. 376 (L), No. 376.2B (R). Photo looks N.

Which way, SPHP?

Either would work, Loop, but let’s skip 2B, and keep going straight.  Part of our reason for coming here was to explore more of Redbird Canyon.

Continuing N on No. 376, the road climbed steadily at an easy pace.  Lupe came to no more beautiful red cliffs, but it was still an interesting trek with something new to look forward to around each bend.  Oddly, much of the W side of Redbird Canyon had burned years ago, but most of the E side hadn’t, creating two quite different landscapes.

As the sun got higher and the day warmed up, Lupe appreciated the shady stretches where No. 376 stayed toward the E.  Before long, SPHP was surprised to see a little snow along the upper W rim of the canyon.  No snow down by the road yet, but Lupe was perfectly happy quenching her thirst in the frequent mud puddles, wading through and sampling each one as she came to it.

Continuing up Redbird Canyon on USFS Road No 376. Photo looks N.
Enjoying a shady stretch on the E side of the canyon. Snow visible (L) along the upper W rim. Photo looks NNW.

Although there weren’t any more red cliffs, Lupe did pass a variety of gray, tan, white, and yellow ones.  Along one stretch, the base of a big wall of limestone was pock-marked by a series of recessions resembling small caves.  The American Dingo conducted a brief investigation, but none of these recessions went into the rock more than a few feet.

Passing a wall of limestone. Photo looks NE.
Next to one of tallest cliffs. Photo looks NE.
By the oddly pock-marked cliff. Photo looks NW.

More than a mile beyond the junction with No. 376.2B, two side canyons joined in from the E at a spot where Redbird Canyon widened out.  Here, a “No Motor Vehicle” wand stood alone in a field for no apparent reason, since no other road or route was in sight.

Weird, why is that wand here, SPHP?

The topo map shows USFS Road No. 280.2R coming down that drainage to the SE, Loop.  However, it dead ends before it ever links up with No. 376.  I suppose some people tried to drive through this field anyway.

That’s it?  I was hoping for a deeper mystery, SPHP.  Dullsville!

Sorry, Loop.  I’ll try to come up with a more exotic answer to whatever your next question might be.

Both the road and Redbird Canyon went on and on.  Soon after passing the pock-marked cliff, the canyon narrowed down to a much smaller gap.  Green grass was springing up around muckiest-looking mudhole yet.  Lupe promptly helped herself to another drink.

At “Mudhole Gap“. Photo looks NNW.

How’s the water, Looper?  Getting your minerals?

Refreshing, and actually quite clear, SPHP.  Doesn’t look like anyone’s been through here to stir it up in a while.

I know.  This part of Redbird Canyon feels awfully remote.  Pristine, too!  Scarcely any trash at all.

That’s a good thing, SPHP!  

Indeed!  Speaking of refreshing, maybe we should look for a spot to take a break, Loop?  It’s been a long time since a skimpy breakfast.

The Carolina Dog was in complete agreement with that notion.  Beyond “Mudhole Gap”, Redbird Canyon widened out again.  After going around a few more bends, another junction was ahead.  With a couple of pines providing shade, and a scenic wall of rock just W of the intersection, this looked like a good spot.  SPHP dropped the backpack.

Lupe munched on Taste of the Wild.  SPHP sipped a strawberry Equate.

So, where are we now, SPHP?

We’re at the junction with USFS Road No. 376.3A, Loopster, which goes up the drainage to the E.  We’ll be sticking with plain old No. 376, though.

Is it still a long way to Dumbuk Ridge?

Yup.  We’re not even half way yet, Loop.  Maybe not even a third of the way to the true summit.

As pleasant as it was sitting in the shade of the pines, Lupe couldn’t stick around for long.  Soon it was time to hit the road again.

N of the junction with No. 376.3A, the old forest fire had burned quite a bit of territory even on the E side of Redbird Canyon.  Shade was scarcer, but having gained quite a bit of elevation by now, the American Dingo began discovering little patches of snow even down by the road.  As far as Lupe was concerned, chomping snow helped make up for the lack of shade, and was even more fun than strolling through mud puddles.

Entering more open territory. Photo looks NNW.
Same hillside from the road. Photo looks WNW.
Starting to see more snow ahead. Photo looks NNE.

The cliffs on both sides of the canyon were getting smaller.  After a long straight stretch between them, the cliffs faded completely away.  Several rounded hills were now ahead, each sporting patches of snow.  Another intersection appeared where a fainter road angled uphill toward the R.

SPHP checked the map.

Stay L again on No. 376, SPHP?

No. 376 is actually the fainter road on the R here, Loop.  Its about to leave Redbird Canyon, and should link up not too far away with No. 284.5I, which is the shortest route to Dumbuk Ridge’s summit.

Oh, OK!  R then on No. 376.

Nope!  Dumbuk Ridge (6,280 ft.) is kind of funny, Loopster.  The highest point is located in a big flat area 0.2 mile W of Rogers Lake, but the part of the mountain that is actually labeled as Dumbuk Ridge is farther NW.  If we stay to the L on USFS Road No. 284.5A, it will take us up Sled Canyon to No. 284, which we can then follow up the NW end of Dumbuk Ridge.

Not only funny, but a bit confusing, SPHP.  Whatever you want to do is fine with me.  All I want to know is which way, L or R?

L, Looper!

USFS Road No. 284.5A to Sled Canyon (L), No. 376 to No. 284.5I (R). Photo looks NNE.

Staying low and to the L, Lupe abandoned No. 376 for No. 284.5A.  Going around the first bend, she almost immediately came to a gate.

Approaching a gate (L) on USFS Road No. 284.5A. Redbird Canyon (R). Photo looks NE.

Can we go through this gate, SPHP?

Yup!  This is all Black Hills National Forest, Looper.

By the gate at the S end of Sled Canyon. Photo looks N.

Sled Canyon was more like a valley than a canyon.  Not much in the way of rock walls here.  The first part had all burned, leaving only a few big pines, and a thin new crop of young ones up on the barren hillsides.

Heading up Sled Canyon. Photo looks NW.
More snow, but not enough to go sledding yet. Photo looks NW.

After rounding a couple more bends on No. 284.5A, the end of the burn region was in sight.  Suddenly, Lupe raced ahead.  Stopping right on the road, she stared over at the barren ridge to the E.  Still out in the open, 3 mule deer were picking their way through deadfall high up on the ridge.  To the American Dingo’s frustration, they quickly reached the live forest and vanished into the trees.

First exciting thing we’ve seen all day, SPHP, other than a few little birds.

We’ve still got a long way to go, Loop.  You never know what we might run into.  How about taking another break when we get to the trees?  A bit of shade sounds good, doesn’t it?  Feel like I’m getting a lot of sun.

Upon reaching the live forest, 2 large, round water troughs were in view down a short slope at the bottom of Sled Canyon.  Fed by a trickle from a spring, both troughs were full of water covered with a thick layer of floating green slime.

Let’s take a break here, Loop, so we can enjoy this magnificent view.

As long as there’s shade, I’m happy with it, SPHP.

The scenic water troughs (R). Photo looks NNE.
Enjoying the shade. Photo looks N.

While relaxing under a big pine, the usual fare was on offer.  Water and Taste of the Wild for Lupe.  SPHP polished off what remained of the strawberry Equate.

The journey up Sled Canyon continued.  A short steepish stretch led to a bend where No. 284.5A leveled out.  The territory ahead was more open.  Melting snow made the road so soft that it soon had to be abandoned.  Following a cow path through a long field paralleling No. 284.5A, Lupe explored the upper end of Sled Canyon, which amounted to little more than a gradually sloping pasture in this region.

At the snowy bend along USFS Road No. 284.5A. Photo looks WNW.
The gently sloping field at the upper end of Sled Canyon. Photo looks NNW.

At the far end, Lupe reached a major intersection.  USFS Road No. 284.5A joined No. 284 here, a much better gravel road.

No. 284 to Dumbuk Ridge (L). No. 284.5A to Sled Canyon (R). Photo looks SSE.

Looks like we’re finally getting somewhere, Loopster!  Only a little over a mile E as the crow flies to where we can start climbing Dumbuk Ridge.

Sounds good, SPHP!

I failed to mention that No. 284 doesn’t go at all like the crow flies, Loop.  It actually winds around a bunch, then drops back down into another part of Redbird Canyon.  Only after all that will it take us up Dumbuk Ridge.

Sheesh!  Are you any relation to Columbus, SPHP?  I can only imagine what Christopher’s Dingo had to put up with.  “India is far to the E, Sweet Puppy, a whole continent away!  Let’s go W to get there!”

No. 284 climbed E, then SE, finally topping out at HP6066.  This region was so flat that, despite the relative openness of the forest, there still wasn’t much in the way of any distant views yet.

Near HP6066 along USFS Road No. 284. Photo looks S.

It wasn’t until the road started downhill and curved NE, descending into Redbird Canyon again, that Lupe saw a burnt hillside full of deadfall topped by a large flat region of live forest above.

Starting back down into Redbird Canyon again. Photo looks SE.
Dumbuk Ridge beyond Redbird Canyon from USFS Road No. 284. Photo looks E.

That’s it, Loopster.  That’s all part of Dumbuk Ridge.

Really?  That’s Dumbuk Ridge?  I can see why we didn’t bother to bring any special climbing gear, SPHP.  We’re talking genuine light Class 1 here, if that, maybe Class 0.4 or thereabouts.

Hah!  Yeah, I’m not expecting any trouble, Loop.  Today is more of a simple endurance road hike.  No difficulties, other than the unexpected blowdown that prevented us from getting a closer start.

Upon reaching the bottom of Redbird Canyon, Lupe temporarily left the road to take another short break in the shade of several big pines.  This time, SPHP provided duck jerky in addition to water and Taste of the Wild.  Once SPHP finished consuming an orange, Lupe returned to No. 284, which headed due N as she began her ascent of Dumbuk Ridge.

Back in Redbird Canyon. Photo looks S.

Climbing steadily, No. 284 soon made a sharp turn back to the SE, before eventually turning ESE.  Upon reaching the region actually marked as Dumbuk Ridge on the topo map, a decent distant view finally appeared to the S.  Leaving the road, Lupe went over for a better look.  A cluster of 3 mountains the Carolina Dog had been to before was on the horizon.

That’s Wildcat Peak (5,513 ft.) on the L, and Elk Benchmark (5,672 ft.) on the R, SPHP, but what’s the one in the middle again?

Peak 5500, Loop.  Kind of far off, but they look great, don’t they?

Easily the best distant view of the day so far, SPHP.  Of course, it’s also about the only only we’ve had, too.

Wildcat Peak (L of Center), Peak 5500 (Center) and Elk Benchmark (R of Center) on the horizon from Dumbuk Ridge. Photo looks S.

Lists of John shows the high point of Dumbuk Ridge on the other side of No. 284, Looper.  Let’s go check out what we can see over there.

Venturing NE back across No. 284, Lupe quickly reached the minor rise that the topo map and Lists of John both seemed to agree was Dumbuk Ridge’s high point.  Beyond a huge valley to the N, a region of grasslands dotted with pines rose toward a forested, pancake flat tableland.

Nice, but the view to the S is better, SPHP.  What valley is this, anyway?

It’s actually more of Redbird Canyon, Looper.

Seriously?  How much farther does Redbird Canyon go, SPHP?

Miles, Loopster, but we’ve explored all of it that we’re going to today.

Redbird Canyon from the official Dumbuk Ridge high point. Photo looks N.

While Lupe had made it to what was apparently considered the official high point of Dumbuk Ridge, the true summit of the massive, otherwise unnamed ridge it was part of was still more than a mile SE.  As far as SPHP was concerned, a visit to the true summit was also mandatory.

So, staying a bit N of USFS Road No. 284, the American Dingo headed E.  Beyond a slight dip, she climbed a long, grassy slope dotted with pines.  The terrain soon leveled out quite a bit.  Turning SE, Lupe explored a somewhat denser forest searching for higher ground.  At a couple of points, she came across No. 284 again, but followed it only a little way before heading back into the forest.  When the ground finally stopped rising, she was going almost due S.

Setting off in search of the true summit. Photo looks E.

1:20 PM, 65ºF, Dumbuk Ridge (6,280 ft.) – Lupe stood on a stump, a huge area of flat, open forest stretching away in all directions.

On the Dumbuk Ridge summit plateau. Photo looks SSE.

Think this is about it, SPHP.  Doesn’t look like we can go any higher.  Time for a chocolate coconut bar, isn’t it?

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw, then looked around.  Nearby, a tiny rise covered with kinnikinnick at the base of a pine tree seemed to be the actual true summit, or as close to it as it was possible to discern.

Congratulations, Loopster on another successful ascent!  Let’s go over to that patch of kinnikinnick to make it official, and call it good, or at least close enough for Dingo work, and we’ll split a chocolate coconut bar.  Got more duck jerky and Taste of the Wild for you, too, if you’re interested.

At Dumbuk Ridge’s true summit. Photo looks SSW.

During a pleasant half hour break, Lupe enjoyed all of the above.

Not much to see up here, is there, SPHP?  The views were better back at the Lists of John and map summit, despite being 170 feet lower.

Yeah, can’t see much due to all the trees, Loop.  However, Dumbuk Ridge does have one attraction we ought to check out before we leave.  0.2 mile E of here, there’s a pond I’ve seen on the maps for years and have always been curious about.  It’s called Rogers Lake.  Looks like it must be pretty small, it’s just a speck on the map, but want to go see it?

Why not, SPHP?  We’re here now.  And while we’re at it, we ought to tag the true summit of Dumbuk Ridge.

As far as I can tell, this is it, Loopster.

Take another look around, SPHP.  Two fallen trees have a bunch of rocks tangled in their roots.  Those rocks are currently the highest ones on Dumbuk Ridge, a good 2 feet higher than where we’re at right now.  All natural, too.  You can’t say they aren’t!

Hmm.  Whatever happened to “good enough for Dingo work”?  Seems you’ve become quite the finicky peakbagging purist all of a sudden, haven’t you?  Alright, fine with me, Looper.  I’ll concede that those rocks are a bit higher, so let’s visit your 2 stumps, then we’ll go on to scenic Rogers Lake.

At Lupe’s Dumbuk Ridge true summit, with her other candidate seen on the R. Photo looks SE.

After visiting her stump high points, Lupe roamed SE through the forest.  A gentle 15 or 20 foot slope led down to a big field.

Searching for Rogers Lake. Photo looks ENE.

Keep going, Loop!  Rogers Lake ought to be somewhere over at the far side of this field.

Sure enough, it was.

2:11 PM – Lupe reached Rogers Lake right where it was supposed to be, just W of USFS Road No. 284.5D.  Meltwater from 2 shallow snowbanks trickled into what amounted to a tiny stock pond.

Arriving at Rogers Lake. Photo looks NE.

Not sure what travel brochure you saw, SPHP, but I’d bet a T-bone steak that we’re the only tourists Rogers Lake has ever attracted.

Have to admit, it’s no Clayton Pond, is it, Loop?  Sort of underwhelming.

Underwhelming?  It’s not whelming at all, SPHP!  Disappointing is the word you’re looking for.

Poor Rogers Lake!  Once upon a time, it must have amounted to more than this, or how would it ever have been included on any map?  The water was only an inch deep, and even that was temporary.  As soon as those snowbanks vanished, Rogers Lake would be nothing more than a little mud flat cracking as it dried beneath the sun.

Yet Lupe stayed, relaxing in the shade of a few young pines, while the snow glittered as it melted away, momentarily staving off Roger Lake’s inevitable baked mud flat phase soon to come.

Hanging out at Rogers Lake. Photo looks SW.

Duck jerky?  I’ve got one left for you, Looper.

The duck jerky vanished.  SPHP drank another strawberry Equate, then shook the Carolina Dog’s paw again.

Final congratulations at the end of the Dumbuk Ridge and Rogers Lake tour.

Guess this concludes our tour of Dumbuk Ridge.  Congratulations once again on your successful ascent, Loop.  You’re a good sport!  It was a long march without much to show for it.

Lupe smiled and seemed pleased.

It’s been a great day, SPHP!  We’ve explored lots of new territory.  I wish every day could be this much fun.

Lots more new territory on the way back, too, Loopster!  We’re going to make a giant loop.  Since we took the long way around on the way here, it won’t be quite as long on the way back.

Leaving Rogers Lake, Lupe headed S on No. 284.5D to No. 284.  This time the American Dingo followed No. 284 S 0.7 mile to a R turn onto No. 280.

Heading S on USFS Road No. 284 after leaving Rogers Lake. Photo looks S.
USFS Road No. 280 near the junction with No. 284. Photo looks S.

Shortly after making the turn onto No. 280, another pond with much more water and a huge log in it appeared just E of the road.  Lupe went over for a look.

I know where we are now, SPHP!  This must be Rogers Ocean!

You’re a riot, Loopster!

At Rogers Ocean. Photo looks SE.

No. 280 wound around quite a bit, gradually losing elevation most of the time, but this was all still pretty high ground.  There were more distant views to enjoy along this route, and progress was fast and easy.  Various side roads appeared, but Lupe stuck with No. 280 for a long way.

Gillette Canyon (L) from USFS Road No. 280. Photo looks SE.
View to the WSW.
At the spot where Lupe took a final short break. Photo looks WSW.

At a junction with USFS Road No. 376.3D, No 280 turned S again.  A long straight stretch through an enormous field was ahead, the whole thing another gradual downhill march.  Finally getting close to the forest at the far end, Lupe suddenly sprinted ahead.  Soon she came racing back, pink tongue hanging out, panting hard.

Giant deers, SPHP!  Lots of them!

I know, Loop.  Saw them after you took off.

Spotting Lupe coming for them, the giant deers had run off, but not very far.  Since they kept retreating along the same road the American Dingo was following, Lupe kept spotting them ahead again around each bend.  What’s more, instead of dispersing, their numbers were growing!

A wary young giant deer with help from the telephoto lens.
The giant deers retreat. Once again taken with help from the telephoto lens.

By the time the giant deers finally figured out that all they had to do was run off into the forest instead of following the road, there were easily 50 or 60 of them milling around, maybe even 100.

Just beyond the spot where the giant deers vanished, a small rise was ahead.  Going over it, a wonderful view greeted Lupe, the same one she had seen from Dumbuk Ridge, only closer.

Wildcat Peak (Center), Peak 5500 (R of Center), Elk Benchmark (R). Photo looks SSW.

Wildcat Peak, Peak 5500, and Elk Benchmark!  We saved the best for last, didn’t we, SPHP?  All these giant deers, and now the grandest view of all.  Redbird Canyon, Dumbuk Ridge, Rogers Lake & Ocean – it’s all been fun, beautiful, remote.  We’ve been in Dingo Paradise all this time, haven’t we?

You know it, Sweet Puppy!  (End 5:44 PM, 63ºF)

On Dumbuk Ridge, Black Hills of South Dakota, 5-11-24
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