The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Part 1 of Day 18 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

4:27 AM, Dempster Highway at Wright Pass, Yukon/Northwest Territories border – No apparent change in the weather.  Borne on a 20 mph wind, smoke still streamed through Wright Pass from out of the SE.  A faint rosy glow to the NE showed that dawn was coming, or perhaps that the sun was already up, still hidden in the smoke.

Lupe yawned.

Awake already, SPHP?  What’s going on?

Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.), Loopster!

We’re really going to attempt it, SPHP?

Yeah, it’s now or never.  This is our big chance, Loop.  We’re choosing now!

Mount Sittichinli is a long way from the highway, isn’t it, SPHP?

Yup.  15+ km, more than 9 miles, almost due N of Wright Pass as the crow flies.  Somewhat longer as a practical matter.  No roads, no trails, pure unadulterated Richardson Mountains wilderness.  I’d be nervous about that, but the last report we got at Eagle Plains was for at least another week of warm, dry weather.

You can thank the Arctic apocalypse, SPHP.

Hah!  Most definitely, Looper.  Anyway, I’ve been awake half the night thinking about how we’re going to pull this off.

An actual, well thought out plan before we’re in trouble?  Nice change of modus operandi, SPHP!  Care to share any details, or do you just want to shock me with how smoothly it all goes?

Well thought out?  We’ll see.  I hope so.  Here’s the general gist of it, Sweet Puppy.  With weather, normally the biggest danger this far N, unlikely to be an issue, it’s pretty straightforward.  My main concern is not running the iPhone out of battery, since GPS will be crucial to navigation in the event of dense fog, or more likely these days, wildfire smoke.

And exactly how do you plan to manage that, SPHP?  The battery is always dying on that thing.

We’ll use it very sparingly, Loop.  I’ll just create a point to point GPS track, only turning the iPhone on at significant changes of direction.  Can take a few photos at those points since the iPhone will already be on.  The rest of the time, I’ll use our old Canon Powershot camera.  As long as the iPhone battery stays at least 50% charged, we can keep going.  Once below it, we’ll have to turn back.

How long will it take us to get to Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?

Depends on what the terrain’s like, Loopster.  If it isn’t all that rugged, I’m hoping we can stay high, following the ridges linking the mountains and hills on the way there.  If that doesn’t work, we’ll have to see what options exist to go around them.  I’m thinking 2 days should be enough to get there and back, but we’ll pack for 3.

So you’re bringing the tiny house, SPHP?

Absolutely!  Have to, Looper.  No way we can get to Mount Sittichinli and return in a day.

Well, let me know when you’re ready, SPHP.  In the meantime, I’m going back to sleep.

Good idea, Sweet Puppy.  Rest up.  It’s going to be an epic day!

6:49 AM, 56ºF, Wright Pass, Yukon/Northwest Territories border – The sun was well up now, looking fairly bright.  Maybe the smoke wasn’t quite as bad today?  Wouldn’t that be nice?  With everything pretty much ready to go, SPHP turned the key, and the RAV4 sprang to life.

So did the American Dingo.

What happened to Mount Sittichinli, SPHP?  Where are we going?

Sittichinli’s still on, Loopster.  Been looking at the maps, though, and North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.) on the N side of the pass here is one of the highest spots on the way to Mount Sittichinli.  Rather than climb it, we’re just going to drive 2 or 3 miles into the Northwest Territories to see if we can find another safe spot to park the RAV4.  If we can, we’ll avoid this first mountain, and shave a little distance off our trek, too.

7:21 AM, 59ºF, Dempster Highway – Luck of the Dingo!  3 miles into the Northwest Territories from Wright Pass, a nice, roomy pullout appeared on the R (E) side of the highway.  What appeared to be some sort of small weather-related installation was here, but no other vehicles.  Plenty of room to park the RAV4 well off the highway.

Smoky, without even much of a breeze here.  Last minute preparations complete, everything SPHP could think of was ready to go.

Show time, Loopster!

Ready for action, Lupe sprang out of the RAV4.  Directly opposite the pullout, a dirt road went up a barren incline to the top of a low ridge.

Can’t imagine that dirt track goes very far, Looper, but let’s find out!

Speaking of tracks, did you remember to start a GPS track, SPHP?

I did.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Crossing the Dempster Highway, Lupe followed the dirt track up onto the small ridge.  The track almost immediately turned W, climbing gradually toward North Wright Pass Mountain.  Sure enough, it soon faded away.  In the distance, a big rounded hill was now visible N of North Wright Pass Mountain.

Go that way, SPHP?

Yes.  Let’s head for the pass between them, Looper.

Still gradually gaining elevation, Lupe headed toward the distant hill.  Not a single tree grew out here.  The gently rolling terrain presented no obstacles other than occasional soggy spots easily identified by their bright green color.  For the most part, the ground was reasonably firm, covered with tundra that wasn’t too thick or spongy.

Lupe drank from tiny streams emerging from springs.  In some regions, she trotted past stands of low bushes.  Overall progress was excellent.  Before long the region between North Wright Pass Mountain and that next big hill to the N was coming into view.

The pass was considerably higher than SPHP expected, and getting to it wasn’t as easy as anticipated, either.  The upper edge of the ridge coming down from North Wright Pass Mountain was almost prohibitively steep.  Crossing a big ravine to get a bit farther N was going to be necessary to reach the pass.

Unfortunately, this rocky ravine was steep-sided, too, especially lower down.  Lupe had to climb close to its upper end before an opportunity to cross the ravine presented itself.

Once across, a further short, steep climb got the Carolina Dog to a nice bench leading directly to the pass.

Covered with scree and scant tundra vegetation, Pass 1110M was flat and very broad.  During the easy march N toward Peak 1220M, the view to the W was too smoky to pay any attention to.  Toward the E, a very steep edge overlooked an enormous drainage hundreds of feet lower.

Glancing back at North Wright Pass Mountain, now almost directly S, it was so high, steep, and rocky that SPHP was extremely glad Lupe hadn’t tried to go over it from Wright Pass.

Whew!  Dodged a bullet there, Looper!

We’re doing great, aren’t we, SPHP?

Excellent progress so far, Loopster.  All we have to do now is figure out whether to go over or around this next big hill.

Aah, yes!  That next big hill.  Although much smaller than North Wright Pass Mountain, it wasn’t anything to sneeze at, either.  Rising more than 300 feet above Pass 1110M, its lower slopes contained a mix of rocks and tundra.  However, the upper regions were nothing but a jumble of talus.  While going right over Peak 1220M appeared quite possible, all that talus would really slow SPHP down.

Hmm.  Having seen North Wright Pass Mountain’s N face, I’m not so sure climbing this next hill is such a good idea, either, Loop.

Maybe we should just go up the easy part for a closer look, SPHP?

Sounds sensible enough, Sweet Puppy.  We’ll consider our options there.

From where the last of the tundra leveled out, the top of Peak 1220M didn’t look all that much higher, but the rest of the climb was definitely all talus.  Traversing the W slope to get around the mountain didn’t look like such a hot idea, either.  It was all talus, too.  The tundra extended a little farther and higher toward the E.

Might as well have a look over that way, Looper.  Not too thrilled with our other options.

Climbing a bit more as she went a little farther NE, Lupe quickly reached some flat rocks.  The view was shocking!  Another talus slope extended hundreds of feet lower to a bench of tundra seen only dimly in the haze.

Criminitly!  How can it be that far down and so steep?  It’s not supposed to be like this, Loop.

According to what, SPHP?  It is what it is.

According to all the maps I was looking at last night, Loopster.

Might want to take another look in the daylight, SPHP.

Evidently!  While Lupe waited, SPHP consulted the paper map.

I still don’t get it, Looper.  Nothing’s matching up with reality!

Are you sure you’re reading the map correctly, SPHP?

Why, of course, I am, Looper!  Unless …

Suddenly it began to click.

Unless what, SPHP?

Give me a moment, Loop.  I’m turning on the iPhone.

Oh, good grief!  Of all the stupid, ridiculous errors!  How could I?

Figure it out, SPHP?

Yes.  The maps are, of course, fine.  The problem is, we aren’t where I thought we were, Loopster.  We’ve just come across Pass 1110M, and we’re now on the SE flank of Peak 1220M.

And where did you think we were, SPHP?

Pass 990M, Loop!  I’d decided that was the best area to head for initially in order to skip as much extra elevation gain as possible.  I’ve just had it in my mind all this time that Pass 990M was exactly where we were going.  That’s why we’re so much higher than I was expecting.  We came to the wrong pass!  We were supposed to skip this one.

It was an unbelievably idiotic error.

And where is Pass 990M, SPHP?

On the other, N side of Peak 1220M, Loop.

Oh, so exactly where we thought we were trying to get to from here then only a moment ago, right, SPHP?

Yes, but we should never have come up here, Looper.  We should still be way down on the tundra E of here making great time.  Instead I’ve gotten us trapped at a dead end full of talus no matter which way we go.

Well, we may as well get started then, SPHP.

With what, Loop?

Heading E on down to the tundra, SPHP.  Didn’t you just say that’s where we’re supposed to be?

Yes.  I suppose you’re right, Looper.  May as well get at it, but angle N as much as possible during this descent.  Pass 990M is still our objective.

Heading NNE, what should have been a completely unnecessary long trudge lower began along Peak 1220M‘s E face.  The slope was plenty steep, but not enough to be scary.  As usual, SPHP was super slow.

Even after reaching the start of the tundra, still more elevation had to be lost to get down to the bench where the terrain leveled out enough to easily turn NNW toward Pass 990M.  A lot of time had been chewed up, but Lupe was back on track again!  Even SPHP was once more making great progress.

This encouraging situation endured all of 10 minutes before disaster struck again.  Lupe was roaming well ahead, crossing a rocky region, when SPHP saw her slip.  The Carolina Dog immediately began hopping gingerly on 3 legs, while holding her R rear paw off the ground.  SPHP raced toward her.

Loopster!  Don’t move, I’m coming!

Lupe was still hopping around on 3 legs when SPHP reached her.  Examining the injured leg, SPHP was glad to see no blood, no obvious wound.  Gently squeezing the offended paw and joints along that leg, Lupe didn’t wince or complain at all.  Good!  No broken bones, maybe a sprain or torn ligament?  Either one could still put an end to the Mount Sittichinli dream, and mean a difficult journey back to the RAV4.

Lay down for a bit, and take it easy, Loop.  Maybe that will help?

A 10 minute miracle!  When Lupe got up again she wasn’t limping at all.

Are you good to go, Sweet Puppy, or does it still hurt?

I’m fine, SPHP.  Stubbed a claw.  I’m all better now.

10:46 AM – Reaching Pass 990M from above, this time there were no ravines to be crossed.  An easy downhill stroll got Lupe to an enormous plain of dirt, small rocks, and sparse tundra even larger than the one at Pass 1110M.  The E and W edges were both gently rounded, the terrain sloping gradually away.

Looking back to the S, SPHP was once again glad that Lupe hadn’t tried going up and over Peak 1220M, or around the W side.

Directly ahead, a low ridge at the N end of Pass 990M swept up from the ESE, connecting to the S ridge of a pyramid-shaped peak.  A high pass was immediately E of the pyramid, and farther E, a series of additional high points were strung out along a massive ridge.

Maybe this would be a good time for another peek at the maps, SPHP?

Don’t mind if I do, Loopster.  Never seems to hurt.

OK.  Think I’ve got it, Loop.  That pyramid is Peak 1160M, and the high pass to the R of it is Pass 1125M, which is our next objective.  Once we get there, we’ll want to follow that huge ridge to the R, or explore the valley beyond the pass NE, whatever looks easiest.

Quite a march, but this plan worked surprisingly well.  Venturing over the low ridge, Lupe followed the base of Peak 1160M‘s rough S ridge higher.  The terrain leading to Pass 1125M was a steady climb, steepest toward the end up a series of small benches.  Extensive talus fields were the only significant obstacle, and most were pretty flat, making them easier and safer to cross.  By staying toward the E, the American Dingo avoided the worst of them, and that was about all there was to it.

12:38 PM, 10-15 mph SE breeze – Also covered with dirt, scree, and scant tundra, Pass 1125M was like the others Lupe had come to, although even at 700 feet wide NE/SW, it wasn’t nearly as large.  A lone 2 foot tall grassy knoll near the middle provided the Carolina Dog with a comfortable spot to curl up partly sheltered from the breeze.

Bookended by 2 steep talus ridges, the one to the SW being Peak 1160M, which looked nothing like a pyramid from here, the only easy route was to continue NW right on over Pass 1125M on terrain that sloped gently away until it got steep enough to vanish from view.  In that direction, a huge ridge stood on the far side of a wide and presumably, deep valley.

Equally ready for a rest break, SPHP dropped the pack, then sat down next to Lupe.

How are we doing, SPHP?

Not too bad, Loop.  Still a long way to go, though.  We’re only about a third of the way to Mount Sittichinli.

Looking slightly E of due N, a giant dome appeared to be the high point of the massive ridge beyond the valley.  A long, tan gash revealed the likely course of a stream too small to be seen from this far away.  SPHP watched as an enormous plume of smoke billowed up beyond the dome.

See that big dome, Loopster?  That’s the region we need to head for next.  I’d hoped to follow this ridge we’re already on rather than lose our newly won elevation descending into the valley, but I didn’t count on this steep wall of talus NE of us.  Now I wish that instead of coming here that we’d tried to reach this ridge farther E.

That ridge isn’t even 100 feet tall, SPHP, and the N side of it doesn’t look too bad.  We can scramble up and over it from there. 

Yeah, maybe, Loop.  Cliffy along the upper edge, though.  Don’t suppose it would take long to find out, but who knows what the other side looks like?  We could easily cliff out over there.

Make up your mind, SPHP.  I’m fine with it either way.  We can take the path of least resistance and head down into the valley, or climb that talus ridge and hope for better terrain beyond it.

I’m sorry, Looper.  You’re always a good sport.  Tell ya what.  Let’s walk over to the N end of the talus ridge for a closer look, then we’ll decide which way to go.

Up close, the N side of the talus ridge really didn’t look that bad.  Lupe was right.  Kind of steep at first, but perfectly doable, and wouldn’t take long.  However, more of the valley was in view from here, and it wasn’t as deep or steep as SPHP had assumed.  Off to the NNE, another high point was now visible, with a little bump in a huge pass between it and the Peak 1360M dome.

Shoot, Loop!  The valley is shallower than I thought, and there’s nothing down there that’s going to stop us.  Let’s forget this steep talus nonsense and make some tracks!  That other high point must be Peak 1402M.  All we have to do is aim between it and the big Peak 1360M dome as soon as we can turn in that direction.

Lupe had barely started down into the valley when she came upon a white stone standing on end.  2 or 3 feet high, it was very noticeable even from a distance.

This white stone is quite a landmark, SPHP!  Let’s remember it in case your iPhone battery dies on the way back.

Not a bad idea, Loopster.

Long fields of talus extended far into the valley from the surrounding peaks and ridges.  Gradually turning NE, the American Dingo had to go nearly all the way down to the tan gash in the bottom of the valley to avoid it.  This forced a march across a bright green boggy region, which SPHP didn’t enjoy slogging through, but it wasn’t difficult, and that part was soon over.

Lupe reached firmer, drier ground, and the process of regaining all her recently lost elevation and more began.

Approaching the upper end of the valley, Lupe was well S of the tan gash.  A ridge S of Peak 1402M was directly ahead.

So far, so good, Loopster.  We’re getting close to where we would have been if we’d taken the ridge route instead of the valley.

Wonderful, but can we take another break, SPHP?  When are we going to have something to eat, anyway?  You did bring food, didn’t you?

Of course, I did!  Just didn’t want to start using it up on a journey this long before we’d made much progress, Loop.  Can you hold out a little longer?  We ought to have a terrific view from up on that ridge.

Yes, if you promise we’ll stop up there, SPHP.

Deal, Loop!  As we head up, let’s aim a little toward the N (L) where the ridge isn’t as steep.

1:50 PM, 60ºF, 15-20 mph E wind – Lupe hadn’t made it to the top of the ridge before laying down on a patch of soft tundra, but she was above the steepest part.  Resting beneath a light jacket, the American Dingo had a commanding view of the territory she’d just traveled through.  Despite being marred by the ever-present smoke, the scene was clear enough to be impressive.  North Wright Pass Mountain (4,500 ft.), Peak 1220M, and Peak 1160M were all in sight beyond the valley below.

Lupe snapped up all the beef jerky SPHP was willing to share, then put her head down, snoozing in the sun.  For nearly half an hour, SPHP sat next to her pondering the vast, unspoiled, empty tranquility.  Other than low grasses accosted by the E wind, nothing moved.

Well N of the Arctic Circle, the feeling was surreal, like being in a dream world.  Only yesterday, Lupe had been on Peak 3850 S of Wright Pass.  Now the Carolina Dog was actually on her way N to Mount Sittichinli, miles from the Dempster Highway, her route roughly following the Yukon Territory and Northwest Territories border, which ran along all these same ridges and passes she’d been venturing along.

Still a long way to go.  Hard to say how it was all going to turn out.  So far, despite SPHP’s navigation errors, especially that needless excursion to Pass 1110M, success still seemed quite possible.  Mount Sittichinli!  The American Dingo might actually get there.  Incredible!

You ready, Loopster?  Hope so.  Time’s up.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

2:35 PM – Climbing gradually, steadily NNE, Lupe now stood on an odd little ridge only a few feet high atop a flat rock.  Peak 1402M was directly ahead now, only a short distance away.  Another mound of talus, SPHP was surprised to see quite a bit of tundra on its SW flank.

Gosh, Loop.  I’d been thinking we’d just bypass Peak 1402M to the W as we head N over Pass 1350M, but that tundra looks like it could get us nearly halfway to the top before we’d face the inevitable rock hop.

Want to climb Peak 1402M, SPHP?  It’s not that much higher from here.

Sure!  Why not, Loopster?  Shouldn’t take us long with a tundra assist, and Peak 1402M is the highest point around according to the topo maps.  Let’s tag the summit just for fun, then continue right on over to the other side.  Should be a ridge going N there that we’ll need to follow.

2:59 PM, Peak 1402M – Took a little longer than expected to get up here, but that wasn’t the only flaw in SPHP’s plan.

Oh, good grief!  The N face is a sheer cliff, Loop!  We’ll have to go right back down the way we came up.

Continuing N was an impossibility, yet SPHP was still glad the Carolina Dog had made the ascent.  The views were spectacular!  Towering above everything else in that direction, North Wright Pass Mountain was due S.  Beyond it, Peak 3850 was in sight, too, barely visible in the smoke.

Beyond Pass 1350M, the dome of Peak 1360M was now only a KM W.  Toward the NW stood a mysterious peak shown on the topo maps only as Peak 1311M at best.  If true, it somehow presented quite the illusion from this angle, because it looked significantly higher.

Looking NNE, the ridge Lupe needed to follow beyond Pass 1350M was in sight.  Broad and rounded with some hilliness along it, this ridge was almost completely bare, covered only with dirt and scree.  From the last minor hill at the far end, another ridge swept down to the NW.  Lupe would have to follow it, too.

The most thrilling sight of all, though, was miles NNW where a huge ridge running E/W sported two almost equally high peaks.

Loopster, we can see it!  Mount Sittichinli (5,165 ft.)!

Are you sure, SPHP?

Yes!  I’m positive, Looper.  Has to be!

Which one is Sittichinli, SPHP?

That I don’t know yet, Sweet Puppy.  The one toward the R (E), I hope.  The one on the L looks like a bugger to get to …

Links:

Next Adventure                   Prior Adventure

Mount Sittichinli, Richardson Mountains, Yukon Territory, Canada – Part 2: Peak 1402M to Base Camp (8-9-23)

The Dempster Highway Travelogue

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.