Flattop Mountain, Chugach Mountains, Alaska & Meeting Steve Gruhn, Editor of The Scree (8-27-23)

Part 2 of Day 33 & Days 34-36 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

8-24-23, 10:15 AM – The sodden 700 foot tramp NE beneath a leaden sky along Denali Highway No. 8 back to the shelter of the RAV4 was a happy one.  Lupe was thrilled to hop back up onto her pink blanket when SPHP opened the door.  SPHP fired the engine up right away, drove 1.5 miles back to the rest area with a partial view of Sevenmile Lake, and parked.

Lupe busily licked herself dry while SPHP exchanged sopping wet boots and socks for dry ones.

What’s for breakfast, SPHP?  I’m totally famished.

I’ll rustle up something in a moment, Loopster.  Hang on.

Ritz crackers and cheese served the purpose.  When the cheese ran out, SPHP fetched a summer sausage to augment the feast.  Lupe munched away, clearly cheered by both food and shelter, a vast improvement over the desperate, wet battle through bogs and bushes back to the highway.

After eating, weariness took over.  Lupe and SPHP both slept.

8-24-23, 12:30 PM, Denali Highway rest area near Sevenmile Lake – It was raining again and windy when the Carolina Dog woke from her nap.

Any more Ritz crackers and summer sausage, SPHP?  I’m hungry again.

SPHP put down the trip journal.

Does sound good, Looper.  Yeah, we’ve got more.

The feast resumed.  Lupe crunched happily away, diligently licking up any cracker crumbs that fell on her pink blanket.

So, what’s the plan, SPHP?

Today?  In this weather?  Nada!  We’re just going to hang out right here in the RAV4, Loop.  My sore paws need time to recover, anyway.  I’ll catch up the trip journal, and we can snooze and feast as much as we like.  As far as doing anything else goes, we’ll see what things look like tomorrow.

And so it went.  SPHP spent the afternoon and evening working on the trip journal.  Between meals and naps, the American Dingo got a Dingo stick and a Busy Rib Hide to relieve her boredom.  Every now and then the rain quit briefly before setting in again, the overall situation getting progressively worse.  The sky got darker and darker.  The clouds were so low that wisps of fog sailed by.  Gusts of wind shook the RAV4, helping the rain wash the mud off the RAV4.

Through it all, quite a few other vehicles came and went.  Some stayed a while before moving on.  SPHP talked to a woman who said the storm was supposed to go on for 2 more days.  The way things looked, SPHP wouldn’t have been surprised if she’d said weeks or months.

8-24-23, 11:55 PM, 50ºF – SPHP turned off the headlamp and yawned.  Lupe had been zonked for hours.  At least the trip journal was caught up.  Outside, the night was pitch black, the weather, atrocious.

8-25-23, 7:08 AM, 47ºF, Denali Highway rest area near Sevenmile Lake – The Carolina Dog was looking out the window when SPHP came to.  No longer raining, and the SW wind had abated quite a bit, too.  Although the mountains remained hidden in the gray gloom hovering over all, Sevenmile Lake and the lowlands near it were in view.

About time we get out to sniff the air, Loopster.  C’mon!

Not that bad out, especially compared to yesterday.  On the other paw, the scene didn’t inspire much confidence in outdoor activities, either.

Part of Sevenmile Lake (R) from the Denali Highway rest area. Photo looks NE.

Far to the SE, near the distant horizon, the sky looked brighter.

What are you thinking, SPHP?

Same as you, Loopster.  Another raw, wet day with everything above us lost in fog.  Not exactly made for climbing mountains, is it?

So, are we going to wait around here hoping for improvement, SPHP, or do something else?

No, not going to stick around when my paws are feeling better, and the trip journal’s all caught up, Loop.  Especially knowing that it’s supposed to stay this way at least through tomorrow.  We shouldn’t waste these days.

Where to then, SPHP?

Maybe things are better out on the Kenai Peninsula, Loopster?  Let’s head for Anchorage, and see what the situation is there.

Lupe was soon on her way.  After a scenic drive beneath the gloomy sky back to Richardson Highway No. 4, conditions improved considerably on the way S to Glenallen.  Still quite cloudy, but the clouds were much higher, and patches of blue were occasionally seen, too.  Encouraging!

Heading W on Glenn Highway No. 1, the Carolina Dog got to do a little sight-seeing as she passed the sites of several former grand adventures.  Syncline Mountain came first, quickly followed by Gunsight Mountain, Lion Head, and the Matanuska Glacier.

Gunsight Mountain (Center) from Glenn Highway No. 1. Photo looks SW.
Talkeetna Mountains from a rest area SE of Gunsight Mountain. Photo looks SW.
Approaching Lion Head (Center). Photo looks WSW.
Matanuska Glacier. Photo looks S.

Arriving in Palmer early in the afternoon, SPHP bought a whole roasted chicken, orange juice, and a few other supplies, then shared the roasted chicken with an enthusiastic American Dingo while parked with a view of mighty Matanuska Peak wearing a wreath of fog.

By 4:00 PM, the RAV4 was at a Jiffy Lube in Anchorage getting an oil change.  However, the weather took a turn for the worse during the evening, raining intermittently.  Checking the forecast, the news was not good.  High probability of rain every day for the next week, except for a 30% chance on Sunday, 2 days from now.  Worse yet, that dismal forecast was about the same everywhere – Anchorage, Palmer, Wasilla, the Kenai Peninsula, the Denali Highway, and even the Brooks Range.  Ugh!

8-26-23, 3:12 PM, Anchorage – It had rained off and on this morning, but was merely cloudy as Lupe spent an hour wandering the leafy trails in Kincaid Park for a bit of exercise.

At Kincaid Park in western Anchorage.

If it’s just going to rain everywhere in Alaska for the next week, SPHP, what are we going to do?  Hate to leave Alaska so soon after we got here, but didn’t you say that it’s going to be sunnier in the Yukon?  Maybe we should go back there?

I don’t want to leave Alaska yet, either, Loopster.  We’ve barely scraped the surface of all the mountains on your list of possibilities here on this Dingo Vacation, but we will if the weather won’t cooperate.  However, we’re going to stick around at least until Monday.  Last night, I emailed Steve Gruhn.  He’s got a little time to meet with us tomorrow evening.

Steve Gruhn?  You mean Steve Gruhn, the editor of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter, The Scree, SPHP?  That Steve Gruhn?

Gee, I think so.  How many Steve Gruhns can there be in Anchorage, Alaska, Loop?

Wow!  So were going to get to meet a real Alaskan mountaineering celebrity tomorrow evening?  What time, SPHP?  And where at?

Don’t know yet, Loopster.  Steve will email us when he knows exactly when he’ll be available.  And what this means, you’re going to like this part, is that we’re going to stay in a motel tonight, since I’m currently completely unpresentable without a thorough scrubbing.

Steve and I can just leave you in the RAV4, like you sometimes do to me, SPHP.

Oh, no!  I’m coming with.  I’m not missing out on meeting Steve Gruhn!

8-26-23, Late Afternoon – Motels weren’t cheap in Anchorage, perhaps because the Alaska State Fair was going on near Palmer.  Even Motel 6 wanted nearly $250 a night, despite some of the online reviews not being all that wonderful.  By Dingo standards, though, Motel 6 merited way more stars than others were apparently willing to concede it.  Curled up on a soft, queen size bed, chomping on another Busy Rib Hide, Lupe was in 7th heaven.

Is this what India’s like, SPHP?  We ought to go there sometime.  Feels like we’re at the Taj Mahal!  Do they have Lassie or Rin Tin Tin here?  Please turn one of them on, if they do.

Don’t seem to have either one, Loop.  You’ll have to settle for Seinfeld.

What!  No Lassie or Rin Tin Tin?  Guess I’ll have to dock Motel 6 a star for that oversight.  Wait!  What about Scooby Doo?

Good thinking, Looper.  You may be in luck!

After getting cleaned up, SPHP had dinner at the Texas Roadhouse, bringing back a nice big chunk of sirloin steak for Lupe.

I could get used to this, SPHP!  If it turns out that Steve Gruhn can’t make it to our meeting tomorrow, I’m willing to let it slide a few more days.

8-27-23, 2:27 PM, 58ºF – No word yet from Steve, and Lupe’s life of luxury at Motel 6 had already ended hours ago at the 11:00 AM checkout time.  It hadn’t rained at all so far today, although the sky sure looked like it could when SPHP parked the RAV4 at the Glen Alps trailhead.

Back at the Glen Alps trailhead for the first time in years. Photo looks SE.

We’ve been here before, SPHP.

That’s right!  Remember The Wedge & The Ramp, or Flattop Mountain, Loop?  We set out for all of them from right here years ago.

Those were great adventures, SPHP!  Especially The Wedge & The Ramp.

Have to agree, Looper, but we don’t have time for The Wedge (4,660 ft.) & The Ramp (5,240 ft.) today.  They’re both up in the clouds now, anyway.  However, we should have time to revisit Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.) while we wait to hear from Steve.

Oh, that will be fun, SPHP.  Let’s do it!

On the E outskirts of Anchorage, the Flattop Mountain trail is one of the most popular hikes in Alaska, and even a cloudy day like this one was no exception.  The big parking lot was 75% full, with plenty of people, dogs, and even small children around as Lupe set out on a broad, well-beaten path through the trees.

Setting out for Flattop Mountain. Photo looks ESE.

A short, gentle stroll higher quickly led to open area with an initial view of both Blueberry Knoll (2,625 ft.) and Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.).

Flattop Mountain (L), Blueberry Knoll (R). Photo looks SSE.

Another short stretch of forest soon led up to another open area where there was a trail junction.

Both trails will get us to the same spot, Loop.  R takes us around the W side of Blueberry Knoll, L will take us along the E side.  Any preference?

Why not do both, SPHP?  How about we go around the E side on the way to Flattop Mountain, and around the W side on the way back?

You’re the brains in this outfit, Loopster!  Sounds good to me!

During a very gradual ascent along the E flank of Blueberry Hill, Lupe could see the valley she’d once explored on the way to The Wedge and The Ramp.  They were both still in the clouds, but False Peak (4,250 ft.) was in view near the start of the long ridge leading to O’Malley Peak (5,150 ft.), the same ridge that ultimately went on to The Ramp.

Along the E side of Blueberry Knoll. Flattop Mountain (R). Photo looks SSE.
Valley to The Wedge & The Ramp (Center). False Peak (L). Photo looks ESE.

The trail began to steepen as the Carolina Dog got close to the SE end of Blueberry Knoll.  A much steeper use trail was visible along the E side of the next big hump on the way up Flattop Mountain, but after rounding Blueberry Knoll, Lupe followed what appeared to be the official route, which headed over to the W side of the big hump before curving S again.

Near the SE end of Blueberry Knoll. The use trail going up the E side of the next big hump (R) is visible as it climbs toward Flattop Mountain (L). Photo looks SSE.

Going around the W side of this next hump, Lupe followed long flights of steps built with timbers.  In some places, the timbers were rotting, and in others, the dirt they’d once held in place had eroded away.  This side of the hump already offered some great views of Anchorage and Cook Inlet, but the American Dingo didn’t pay much attention to them as she had fun climbing the steps.

Following the steps. Photo looks SW.
A rocky stretch. Flattop Mountain (Center). Photo looks SE.

The steps ultimately led to a fairly large saddle between this last hump and the upper N slopes of Flattop Mountain.  The summit was still nearly 500 feet higher.

On some of the last steps prior to reaching the saddle. Photo looks ESE.
Flattop Mountain (Center) from the saddle. Photo looks SE.

The final climb to the top of the mountain was a stark contrast from the super easy, almost flat trail back at the start.  An obvious trail heading up from the saddle soon got very steep and rocky.

False Peak (far L) as the trail starts getting interesting. Photo looks ESE.
Along the rocky route higher. Photo looks SE.

The trail became braided.  Lupe had a choice of any number of routes she could follow.  Judging from the appearance of the rocks, all had been tried by others countless times before.  Before long, an official trail could no longer be discerned, as the ascent deteriorated into a steep scramble by whatever route looked best.  Even so, lots of little kids were managing it, often with minimal assistance from their parents.

If they could do it, so could an American Dingo!  Lupe led the way, as SPHP tried to follow.

Partway up the big scramble. Photo looks S.
Getting close to the top.

8-27-23, 3:55 PM, 58ºF, Flattop Mountain (3,510 ft.) – Although it had been breezy on the way up, upon reaching an enormous, rolling summit plateau, Lupe was suddenly fully exposed to a 25-30 mph gale out of the SE.  Due to some odd quirk of fate, no one else was up here at the time the Carolina Dog arrived.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

Congratulations on your 2nd ascent of Flattop Mountain, Loopster!  Let’s get out of this wind!

Finding a spot offering partial protection from the gale a bit down the NW edge of the mountain, Lupe relaxed among the rocks.  Before her was a tremendous view of Anchorage and the sea, with both Blueberry Knoll and the last big hump she’d gone around immediately below.

The final big hump (Center) with Blueberry Knoll beyond it. Anchorage and the Knik Arm in the distance. Photo looks NW.
Turnagain Arm (L) with Cook Inlet beyond Fire Island (L of Center), Knik Arm (R) with Anchorage spread out below. Photo looks NW.

Chocolate coconut bar time, Looper!

You remembered, SPHP!  I’ve been wondering if you brought one, or not.

I did.  Brought you some Taste of the Wild and water, too.

The chocolate coconut bar was delicious, as always.  The wind snatched the wrapper, which nearly sailed over the edge before SPHP managed to latch onto it again.

Nicely done, SPHP!

Thanks, Loop!  That was close to getting away from us.  Can’t have that!

Lupe enjoyed her Taste of the Wild while SPHP munched on trail mix.  Many people, kids, and dogs were arriving now.  Some headed back down after staying only a few minutes.

Unfortunately we can’t stay up here all that long, either, Loopster.

No traditional summit hour, SPHP?

Nope.  We should get back to Anchorage to check on whether Steve Gruhn has tried to contact us yet, Looper.

Why don’t you just check your iPhone right here, SPHP?

Because we don’t seem to have any service in Alaska, Loop.  Wifi works, but that’s it.  C’mon!  Let’s have a look around before we head down.  We’ll start over by the giant cairn, then visit the flagpole.

At the giant cairn, a mini-mountain itself! False Peak (L). Photo looks ESE.
Near the flagpole (L). Knik Arm in the distance. Photo looks N.

What happened to the beautiful red, white, and blue American flag that used to be here, SPHP?  It would sure be snapping in the breeze today!

I have no idea, Looper.  That flag did look awesome when you stood next to it the first time you climbed Flattop Mountain.

Looking SE across the summit plain, Peak Two (3,609 ft.) was in view not too far away.  No others were in sight along the ridge beyond it.

Peak 4160 (L) and Peak Two (R). Photo looks SE.

The true summit of Flattop Mountain was farther SW.  Lupe had yet to tag it, so that was the final, totally necessary step on the agenda.  On this late August afternoon, the true summit was a very breezy spot.

In the wind atop Flattop Mountain. Turnagain Arm (R). Photo looks SW.
At the true summit. Turnagain Arm (L), Fire Island (Center), Anchorage and Knik Arm (R). Photo looks NW.

8-27-23, 4:32 PM, Flattop Mountain – A last look at the silvery sea from the NW edge, and it was sadly already time to head down.

Back along the NW edge. Turnagain Arm in the distance. Photo looks WSW.

Of course, the grand views of Anchorage were evident not only during the steep scramble back down to the saddle, but also all along the W side of the both the big hump and Blueberry Knob.  Now sheltered from the fierce SE wind, it was easier to fully appreciate them.

Anchorage from a platform on the W side of the big hump. Photo looks NW.

8-27-23, 5:54 PM, Glen Alps trailhead – The parking lot was 90% empty when Lupe hopped into the RAV4 prior to the steep winding drive back down into Anchorage.  Turned out that Steve Gruhn had left a message 1.5 hours ago.  He was free to get together now, if Lupe still wanted to.

Of course, it happened!  After meeting Steve in the Texas Roadhouse parking lot, he suggested a stroll along the beach at Kinkaid Park.

Lupe with Steve Gruhn, editor of The Scree, on the beach at Kincaid Park.

Steve was super nice, and it was so awesome that he had made time for Lupe!  The tide was out, and during a long walk near mud flats of the Turnagain Arm, the sun slid toward the horizon beyond Fire Island.

Fire Island near sunset from Point Campbell. Photo looks WNW.

Steve was a recently retired Civil Engineer, and an Alaskan native.  He was editor of The Scree for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, and had once served as treasurer.  His parents were both school teachers, and Steve actually had old family ties to South Dakota.  Steve and his wife have a 10 year old daughter.  He’d recently received good news from an MRI on his R knee, which had been giving him some problems.  No surgery would be required.

Meeting Steve Gruhn live and in person was an interesting, thoroughly enjoyable experience.  If it weren’t for a certain Carolina Dog, SPHP would never have met him.  Out of the blue, Steve had contacted Lupe way back in April, 2018 requesting trip reports on her ascents of Lake Benchmark Mountain in the Brooks Range, and Slope Mountain out on Alaska’s North Slope in August, 2017 for publication in The Scree.  SPHP had been shocked, but thrilled to submit them on Lupe’s behalf.

What an honor for the American Dingo to appear in the Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s newsletter, her stories tucked in among those of real mountaineers who climbed some of the most fearsome peaks in Alaska!  Lupe had appeared in The Scree for some of her other exploits during the years since then, too.  Steve Gruhn had never turned down any of her submissions.

The time flew.  Meeting Steve Gruhn was a dream come true!  However, the light began fading, and the moment came to head back to the RAV4.

During the drive back to Steve’s car, he did have discouraging news on the prospects for Lupe’s adventures in Alaska on this Dingo Vacation.  2023 had been cool and wet in Anchorage.  Alaska hadn’t had much of a summer.  Furthermore, a week of rain, as indicated by the most recent forecast, wouldn’t be anything unusual at all.

Lucky Dingo!  Do you realize what an honor Steve Gruhn bestowed upon you tonight, and all the times he’s accepted your submissions to The Scree?

Why shouldn’t he, SPHP?  I’m the next Henry Pinkham!

Oh, so you remember that tale Steve related to us in an email years ago?

Of course, SPHP.  It was a good one, and reminded me of me!

Ahh, yes!  Our unassuming humility, the trait we’re proudest of!

With Steve Gruhn, editor of The Scree, Anchorage, Alaska 8-27-23
Lupe’s GPS Track

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track & Ascent Statistics

Chugach State Park Map & Brochure

Lupe in The SCREE! – The Mountaineering Club of Alaska’s monthly newsletter & the Story of Henry Pinkham

Syncline Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-22-19)

Gunsight Mountain, Talkeetna Range, Alaska (8-23-16)

Lion Head & The Matanuska Glacier, Chugach Range, Alaska (8-24-16)

Matanuska Peak, Chugach Chugach Range, Alaska (9-5-19)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s Summer of 2023 Dingo Vacations to Colorado, New Mexico, Canada & Alaska Adventure Index, Dingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 337 – Buck Mountain, Peak 5566, Peak 5170 & Peak 5163 (12-3-24)

9:15 AM, junction of USFS Roads No. 201 & No. 201.2D – Late November had been cold and dry in the Black Hills, and December started out the same way.  Not today, though!  Still very dry, not a cloud in the sky, but the temperature was already an amazing 52ºF!

Loopster ready to rock near the start of USFS Road No. 201.2D. Photo looks SW.

What an awesome day, SPHP!  I’ve been waiting for this!

Oh, I know it, Loop.  Me, too!  4 peaks on the agenda, if we can get to them all, so let’s get underway!

Following USFS Road No. 201.2D first SW, then W once she reached the North Bogus Jim Creek drainage, Lupe led the way.  After passing USFS Road No. 201.2E on the R, the road began to steepen at a curve SE.  A skiff of snow remained here in the shade of the pines.

A skiff of snow on USFS No. 201.2D. Photo looks SE.

Turning SW again, a shady, straight section climbed even more steeply among the pines before making a quick loop toward the N, then leveling out as it turned SE again toward a lovely, sunlit part of the forest.

On the shady straight stretch. Photo looks SW.
In the sunlit forest. Photo looks SE.

A sunny, minor pass was just ahead.  After going over it, No. 201.2D curved SW.  A relatively short stretch led to another curve S, and almost immediately, to an unexpected, unmarked fork in the road.  The branch toward the R was higher than the one on the L.

At the unmarked fork. Photo looks S.

So, do we stay to the R, SPHP?

Good guess, Looper.

Just playing the odds, SPHP.  Since we’re climbing a mountain, the higher route is most likely correct.

The upper road climbed gradually SSW.  5 minutes got the American Dingo to yet another unmarked fork.  By now, the road was quite rocky.  This time the branch on the R was much steeper than the one on the L, which was virtually flat by comparison.

At the second unmarked fork. Photo looks SSW.

Right again, I presume, SPHP?

You’re 2 for 2, Loopster.

Following the eroded R branch of the second fork along the NW side of a ravine, Lupe gained 200 feet of elevation during a steep, rocky ascent.  Although the rate of climb then decreased somewhat, the Carolina Dog had to gain another 100 feet of elevation before reaching a spot where the terrain ahead leveled out in a sunlit forest.  Still climbing gradually, the road, which was no longer all that rocky up here, turned NW.

Near the flat, sunlit forest after a 300 foot climb. Photo looks SW.

Right where we want to be, Looper.  Let’s leave the road here.  Actually lucked out that there was a road that got us this far.  Didn’t know these last 2 unmarked branches even existed.  They aren’t on the maps.

Nice!  And exactly where are we, SPHP?

About 0.15 mile NW of Buck Mountain (5,555 ft.), Loopster.

Buck Mountain!  We were there once before, a long time ago, SPHP.  Had some big views.

Yup.  That’s right, Loop.  We did visit Buck Mountain, although I’m kind of hazy now on how we got there.  Seems like we came up from the W or NW on the other side of the mountain beyond this flat region.  I do remember that we had to go around to the E side to find a way up.

So, I suppose that’s the plan again today, SPHP?  S to the mountain, then around to the E?

You’re on a roll, Loopster, 3 for 3 now!

The flat, sunlit region wasn’t all that big.  Heading SE, Lupe very quickly entered a shaded region thick with doghair pines.  Gray rock formations soon appeared.  Staying E of them, Lupe climbed to a forested bench where a more formidable wall of rock was ahead.

Past most of the doghair pines, climbing near the rock formations at R. Photo looks S.
Approaching the more formidable rock wall. Photo looks SE.

We’re not going to try climbing that, are we, SPHP?  This must be where we head around to the E.

4 for 4, Looper!  It’s like you’ve been here before!

Below the wall of rock, a wide bench of mature pines swept around to the E and SE.  A few rocks and some deadfall along the way, but really a very easy trek.  The bench soon broadened out even more below a slope that was mostly rocky, but still just a mere walk-up.  Reaching an upper bench above this slope, Buck Mountain’s summit ridge was now in view, clearly a much more daunting prospect.

On the wide bench sweeping around to the E side of the mountain. Photo looks E.
On the rocky slope between benches. Photo looks SW.
On the upper bench at the base of the summit ridge. Photo looks WSW.

Yeah, this all seems familiar, Loopster.  No sense in trying to go up here.  There’s an easier way up a little farther S.

Following the upper bench S, the American Dingo soon got to where she could start angling up a slope that was steep, but nothing like that first view of the summit ridge with a boulder field below it back to the N.  A few minutes on this slope was all it took to reach the top of the ridge.

10:36 AM, 53ºF, Buck Mountain (5,555 ft.) – Lupe had come up not too far from the SE end of a NW/SE running summit ridge that was several hundred feet long.  This end was somewhat lower, but even here, the ridge featured many big, flat rocks that made excellent viewpoints.  This part of the ridge was also somewhat wider, with pine needle-covered passages between the rocks and trees, which made it relatively easy to move around.

Buck Mountain’s summit ridge, where Lupe first reached it. Photo looks WNW.

From the first big rock that Lupe leapt up onto, she had a clear, if distant, view of both Boulder Hill (5,336 ft.) and Silver Mountain (5,418 ft.) far to the SSE.

Boulder Hill and Silver Mountain (far R) on the distant horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Although the wind had been heard among the treetops during the trek to Buck Mountain, at ground level it hadn’t been any more than just a light breeze.  Up here, though, the situation was entirely different.  A strong, gusty W wind was blowing, making it feel colder in unprotected spots than it really was.

Since we’re close to the SE end of the summit ridge, why don’t we explore out that way first, SPHP?

Makes sense to me, Loop.  Onward!

Exploring SE, SPHP recognized Green Mountain (5,244 ft.), Peak 5136, and Peak 4980 among the many hills visible to the E.  Lupe could see clear out to the prairie beyond the Black Hills all along that horizon.

Peak 4980 (L) and Peak 5136 (R). Photo looks ENE.

After getting close enough to the SE end of the summit ridge to see what was out that way, it was time to head back to the NW in search of the true summit.  Along the way, from the top of a cool rock formation, Lupe enjoyed a nice, distant look at Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.).  Unfortunately, even at mid-day in December, the sun was so low that it interfered with the iPhone’s camera when looking S.

Near the SE end of Buck Mountain’s summit ridge. Photo looks SE.
Black Elk Peak (R). Photo looks S.

The NW half of the summit ridge was different.  As Lupe worked her way higher, the ridge soon narrowed.  Huge rocks dominated the crest.  Fully exposed to the W wind here, it was gusting anywhere from 10 to 30 mph.  Lupe came to a point where she couldn’t see over the next rocks.

At a dead end? Photo looks NW.

Stay there, Loop!  This ridge get pretty gnarly.  Let me take a look.

Yeah.  Nothing beyond those next rocks except a vertical drop into a gap along the ridgeline.  However, somewhat lower, an easily accessed 2.5 foot wide platform of solid rock existed on the NE side of these rocks.  This ledge allowed Lupe to get around them at a level that brought her to the upper end of a sloping rock surface that got her down to the bottom of the gap.

From the gap, the Carolina Dog continued NW below the crest of the ridge, losing additional elevation in rocky terrain full of stickers.

The next part of the summit ridge beyond the gap. Lupe went down along the R side. Photo looks NW.

Starting to regain elevation as Lupe followed the base of the wall, SPHP began looking for a route to the top.  There was one, SPHP was certain of that, since the American Dingo had been to the true summit before.

It wasn’t long before the spot appeared.  A near vertical scramble of 10 feet, or so, but with enough grips, pawholds, indentation, and even a small tree to hang onto near the top to make it possible.

You’re going to need a boost, Loopster.  I’ll get you up to that little ledge, then you just keep going up to the first safe spot.  Once you’re there, I’ll come up behind you.

Got it, SPHP.  Regular, old Boost-A-Dingo Plan A!

11:03 AM, Buck Mountain (5,555 ft.) – Plan A worked, of course, which was fortunate, because there was no Plan B.  Lupe had come up almost right next to the true summit, where she now stood rather reluctantly in the wild W wind.

Hurry up, SPHP!  Take the shot!

Stay there, Looper!  Dang sun is interfering again.  Let me get to a better spot.

There really wasn’t a much better spot.

If you wait much longer, you’ll be getting a picture of me flying off the mountain, SPHP.  Better make it a good one, because I won’t do it twice!

The Carolina Dog wasn’t kidding.  A moment later as another gust began sweeping in, Lupe didn’t stick around to see how it was going to turn out, instead leaping preemptively off the rock.

So, did you at least take a shot while I was still up there, SPHP?

Yeah, I did.  Should have gotten that leap, though, instead.

On Buck Mountain’s true summit. Photo looks SE.

The things you gotta do to get a chocolate coconut bar around here!

Hang on, Loopster.  Let’s sit down, and I’ll dig one out of the pack.

Sitting together below the summit boulder, it was still plenty windy.  SPHP shared a chocolate coconut bar with Lupe, then gave her a duck jerky and water, too.  After a nice rest break, it was time to get up, face the full force of the W wind, and have a look around.  There weren’t as many tall trees toward this end of the summit ridge, so the views were even better.

Green Mountain (L), Peak 5136 (Center), Bogus Jim Creek valley (R). Photo looks E with help from the telephoto lens.

Custer Peak (6,809 ft.) and Terry Peak (7,069 ft.) were easy to spot far to the NW.  Much closer, Peak 5701 was in that general direction, too.  However, at the moment, the view of a different mountain only 0.5 mile N interested SPHP the most.

See that hill at about the same elevation as we are here on Buck Mountain, Loop?

Of course.  What about it, SPHP?

That’s Peak 5566, you’re next objective, Looper.

Oh, that’s a new one, isn’t it, SPHP?  Shouldn’t take us long to get there.  About time to get off this windy mountain, anyway!  Shall we start down?

Custer Peak (far L) and Terry Peak (L) on the horizon. Peak 5701 (L of Center). Peak 5566 (R). Photo looks NNW.

Sure!  Right after we get a few more shots up here of Buck Mountain’s true summit, Loop.  This really is a terrific peak!  A cool summit ridge with lots of viewpoints, and a bit of a scramble required at the very end to claim success.

Oh, great!  I suppose that means you’re expecting me to get back up on that windy boulder again?

Just for a few minutes, please, Sweet Puppy.  I’ll try to be quick.

With a chocolate coconut bar, a duck jerky, and water so recently added as ballast, Lupe managed to stay up on the true summit longer this time, despite the W wind’s ongoing gusty assaults.

Buck Mountain’s cool summit region. True summit (L). Photo looks S.
Back on the true summit. Photo looks SE.
Black Elk Peak (R of Center) on the horizon from Buck Mountain. Photo looks S.
Dingo of the Wild West Wind atop the true summit. Photo looks SSW.

Exactly an hour after first reaching Buck Mountain’s summit ridge, Lupe leapt down off the true summit boulder for the last time.  Descending the 10 foot scramble without any assist from SPHP, she then headed SE along the ridge using the same route as before.

The rest was easy.  Once back to the same spot where she had come up, the Carolina Dog left the summit ridge and made her way back to the flat, sunlit forest.

OK, I guess we can return to the same road we were on before, Loop, and follow it however close it gets to Peak 5566 before starting our ascent.

The road climbed slowly as it wound NW.  Lupe didn’t get far before the road turned W, which wasn’t the way the American Dingo needed to go.  Abandoning the road, Lupe began climbing N on a moderately steep slope of open forest.  After gaining another 100 feet of elevation, a turn NE on slightly steeper terrain looked like it might get her to the highest ground.  Entering a denser forest, a wall of rock was just ahead.

Approaching the rock wall. Photo looks NE.

It’s higher toward the N, SPHP.

Yeah.  Let’s follow it, Looper, and look for a place to get up on top.

A wide forested ramp made for an easy march N along the base of the wall.  Soon enough, an easy route to the top appeared.  Getting up there revealed that Peak 5566’s summit was still farther N.  Heavily forested, and sort of a pointy peak, it was hard to tell if Lupe was going to have any trouble getting to the top, or not.

Hope weren’t not in for a fail here, Loopster.  Certainly looks possible.

Won’t know until we get there, SPHP.

Retreating back down into the forest, a short jaunt N got Lupe to another spot where it looked easy enough to begin an ascent.  The forest leveled out right along in here, too.

We can’t be that far from the summit now, Loop.  Let’s start up!

About to start a rocky ascent. Photo looks NE.

Reaching the crest of the wall again, a jumble of rock was ahead.  This part of the wall was wider than where Lupe had first climbed it.  The summit appeared to be close at paw, but pines mostly hid the highest rocks.  Still hard to say for certain what was in store.

It’s a Stairway to Heaven, Looper!  Looks best toward the L (W).

Awesome song, SPHP!  Not so sure about the mountain yet.

On the Stairway to Heaven. Photo looks N.

The top was farther than it first appeared.  After passing a pinnacle on the R (E), the stairway went on.  Staying toward the W was the right thing to do.  There were cliffs toward the E.

By the Peak 5566 pinnacle. Photo looks SE.
The stairway continues. Summit not in view yet. Photo looks N.

The true summit wasn’t much farther.  After passing a big rock situated above and beyond the pinnacle, the end was in sight.  A rocky region sloped up toward a high point of stones and brown bushes.

Our stairway is going to work, SPHP!

A glance back at the final part of the ascent. Photo looks SSW.
At Peak 5566’s true summit. Photo looks NE.

12:48 PM, 55ºF, Peak 5566 – Might not be heaven, but fairly close to it!  Lupe arrived at a summit that was a bit cramped, and kind of hard to move around on, due to a jumble of medium-sized stones and bushes.  The W wind was still an issue, but seemed to have weakened somewhat, with periods of near calm between sudden gusts of 25 mph.

Cliffs were on all sides, the stairway Lupe came up from the S the only route possible without serious rock-climbing skills.  Slightly lower, a flat platform of solid rock with a vertical edge jutted out to the NW.  A vast amount of territory was in view in all directions except back to the S, where pines along the stairway hid Buck Mountain (5,555 ft.).  From the right vantage point, it was sort of in view, and did look a bit lower.

On the NW platform, 15 feet from the true summit. Peak 5701 (far L). Photo looks N.
Edge of the platform (R). Custer Peak (far L), Peak 5701 (L of Center) with Terry Peak (L) between them. Photo looks NNW.

SPHP shed the backpack.  While Lupe stood proudly perched atop the true summit, SPHP shook her paw.

Proudly perched at the true summit. Photo looks SSW.

Congratulations, Loopster!  A new summit, and quite a nice one.

There’s a Dingo that’s sure all that glitters is chocolate and coconut, and she’s climbing the stairway to Peak 5566 …

Hah!  Great try, Loop, but sorry.  Only had one chocolate coconut bar, and it’s gone.  How about a duck jerky?

An acceptable substitute, SPHP, but next time come better prepared.  4 peaks, and you only brought one chocolate coconut bar?  Sheesh!

Facing E during a rest break, Peak 4980, Green Mountain (5,244 ft.), and Peak 5136 were all in sight again.  Steamboat Rock (5,084 ft.) was off to the NE, but a little hard to pick out since it blended in more with the forested hills nearby.

Peak 4980 (L), Green Mountain (Center), Peak 5136 (R of Center), Bogus Jim Creek valley (R). Photo looks E.
Steamboat Rock (Center), Peak 4980 (R). Photo looks NE.

Been a long time since we’ve been to Green Mountain or Steamboat Rock, SPHP.  Wonder if Pugg’s Keep is still up there?  We ought to check it out again sometime.

Some fine day, Loopster.  So many mountains, so little time!  Speaking of which, if we really intend to visit 2 more peaks, we can’t afford to spend another entire hour up here.  The days are way too short this time of year.

How long have we been here, SPHP?

40 minutes, Loop.

I thought visits to heaven were supposed to last longer than that, SPHP, but if  you think we should go, I guess I’m ready.

If this really was heaven, we’d stay longer, Looper.  Get back up on the true summit for a minute or two, again, please, and we’ll be on our way.

Back at the true summit. Photo looks SSW.
Waiting for the signal to descend the rock stairway. Photo looks NNE.

Once back down to the forest, the Carolina Dog had a logically pertinent question.

Where to next, SPHP?

Peak 5170, Loopster, then Peak 5163, if we have time.  You’ve been to both before, but only Peak 5163 was in the Peakbagger.com database back then.

So, we’re tagging Peak 5170 just for fun now that it’s in the database?

Yup.  It’s a little more complicated than that though.  Peak 5170 is at the S end of the same big highland that Peak 5163 is part of, and has 4 different 5,160 foot contours.  We visited them all last time around, and we’ll do it again today, too, just to make sure we hit the true high point.

How long will all that take us, SPHP?

Oh, not that long.  Don’t worry, Loop.  They’re all super easy.

And that brings us back to my original question, SPHP.  Which way do we go from here to get there?

Let’s start out following Peak 5566’s NW ridge, Loop.  Once we get past HP5496, there’s another ridge we can follow E.

Sounded easy enough, and started out that way, but it wasn’t long before rock formations began appearing along the crest of the ridge.  Soon they were large enough to repeatedly force Lupe off the ridgeline, eventually threatening to become so continuous that a decision had to be made.

Wow!  I had no idea that anything so rugged was in this region, Looper.  Looks like crossing back and forth over the ridge, choosing the side with the easiest terrain, is going to be an issue as we keep heading NW.  We’re going to have to pick one side or another, and stick with it for a while.

If we’re going to turn E when we get to the next ridge, we better stay on the NE side of this one, SPHP, or these rock formations will prevent us from getting over to that next ridge.

Makes sense, Loop, but looks easier on the SW side.  So, why don’t we try it?  These rock formations can’t go on forever.

Whatever, SPHP.  Why do you even ask, if you’re just going to ignore my advice?  My Dingo intuition is 4 for 4 so far today, remember?

Nevertheless, SPHP more or less insisted.  Venturing NW along the SW side of the rock formations, they became a continuous, insurmountable wall.  This was all beautiful territory, an easy, gradual downhill stroll through the forest, but as the American Dingo had already pointed out would be the case, Lupe was stuck on the wrong side of the wall.

On the wrong side of the impressive wall. Photo looks NNW.

Expecting some kind of a break before too long, SPHP was disappointed.  The rock wall went on and on.  What’s more, instead of shrinking, the wall was getting taller and taller, more and more formidable.

Below the fortress-like wall. Photo looks NNW.

Oh, good grief!  Can you believe this, Loop?  It’s got to end somewhere!

I’m 5 for 5, SPHP!

The wall extended all the way to HP5496.  Still no relief in sight!

Below HP5496. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was right, but so was SPHP.  There had to be an end, and there was.  A little after passing HP5496, the wall abruptly ended.  Climbing a moderately steep forested slope, the Carolina Dog reached the crest of the ridge again, and went over it.  Nothing but pine needles to deal with!  However, beyond this gap, the massive wall did continue NW.  SPHP was amazed by the rock formation Lupe went by.

The next rock formation along the ridge. Photo looks N.

Beautiful, but of no consequence to the plan of action.  Lupe was back on the right side of Peak 5566’s NW ridge again, and very close to the lower ridge she was supposed to follow E.  Beginning to lose elevation as she headed NE, a region full of deadfall and even a little snow soon gave way to a forest with far fewer obstacles.

And a trail, SPHP!

So there is, Looper!  Follow it.  It’s going the right way.

On the unexpected trail. Photo looks E.

The faint trail was an unexpected boon.  So continuous that it couldn’t possibly have been a game trail, the path appeared old, an abandoned route seldom, if ever, used anymore.  With the sun now clearly starting to sink, an American Dingo flew along it today, SPHP hot on her paws.  Steadily losing elevation most of the time, the trail ran right along the top of the same ridge SPHP had intended to descend.

Finally approaching a saddle, the trail curved S.

It’s going down to USFS Road No. 201.2E, close to where we were this morning, Loop.

A shortcut back to the RAV4, SPHP!

Yup, but that’s not where we’re headed.  We need to turn N.

Leaving the trail she was on, the Carolina Dog continued E toward the saddle.  Before she even got there, Lupe picked up another trail that promptly curved N.  Perfect!

On the second trail, shortly after discovering it. Photo looks SSE.
Heading N! Photo looks NNW.

Losing elevation much more slowly now, the second trail headed N into a more open, grassy area.  Not exactly a field, since there were still quite a few trees around, but very easy terrain where progress continued to be excellent.  Peak 5170 came into view ahead as the trail angled NNE.

Heading for Peak 5170 (R of Center). Photo looks NNE.

Peak 5170 looks like a blah mountain, SPHP.

They can’t all be the Matterhorn, Looper.

The second trail played out as it reached the forest again near Jim Creek.  Lupe got a drink from the stream, which was running quite low this time of year, making it easy to find a place where SPHP could cross.

At Jim Creek. Photo looks NE.

USFS Road No. 201 was just beyond Jim Creek.  The base of Peak 5170 was surprisingly steep on the other side of the road, but by following No. 201 only a little way N, the Carolina Dog was able to start up an easier slope.  Still steep enough to make SPHP pause frequently to gasp for air, but after regaining 250 feet of elevation, the rate of climb diminished.

On Peak 5170’s upper S slopes. Photo looks N.

Another 170 feet yet to go, but SPHP was now able to pick up the pace.  As Lupe got close to the top, SPHP encouraged her to turn NE.

Let’s head for the SE high point first, Loopster.  Right or wrong, that’s the 5,160 foot contour where Peakbagger.com shows the true summit.

3:29 PM, 52ºF, Peak 5170 – Felt odd being here again.  Nearly 3 years had flown, and no thought had been given to this place in all that time since.  Yet, instantly recognizable, memories came flooding back, the cobwebs hiding them suddenly torn away.  The SE high point actually had quite a few big rocks strewn about the forest.  Two of them, roughly 100 feet apart, seemed the most heavily-favored candidates for true summit.

Tag ’em both, Loop, and we’ll call it good.

Peak 5170 SE 5160 foot contour true summit candidate No. 1. Photo looks NE.
And SE contour true summit candidate No. 2. Photo looks S.

Seems like deja vu all over again, doesn’t it, Looper?  Funny how familiar it all strikes me nearly 3 years later.  Nothing that spectacular here, just some rocks in the forest, yet it’s almost like we never left.

Seek professional help, SPHP.  We’re still going to hit the other 3 contours, aren’t we?

Absolutely!  Would like to hang around here a little while, but it’s too late for that.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Two of the four 5,160 foot contours were close together midway between the others.  The S one was a rock so dull, that even to SPHP, it seemed only vaguely familiar.

At the S middle contour HP. Photo looks NW.

The N middle contour high point was another matter entirely.

I knew it!  I knew one of these middle contours had a tall, skinny cairn, Looper, and there it is!

Your mind is a steel trap when it comes to useless information, SPHP.

By the skinny cairn at the N middle 5,160 foot contour. Photo looks NW.

The W 5,160 foot contour high point was also clear as a bell, fresh as a daisy, in SPHP’s trivia-endowed mind.  Lupe stood with her front paws on a little ridge of rock with deadfall resting on it.  Although the entire journey from the SE high points hadn’t taken long at all, the setting sun was already near the horizon.

Near sunset at the W 5,160 foot contour high point. Photo looks SW.

I don’t know why, but this was really fun!  I’m glad we returned to Peak 5170, Loopster.

Yes, yes, I’ve enjoyed it, too, SPHP, but where’s Peak 5163?  It’s a long way N, isn’t it?  If we want to tag it before dark, we better keep going.

Peak 5163?  Yeah, it’s about 0.5 mile NNW, Loop.  Not so far.  Easy terrain on the way to it from here without all that much elevation gain or loss, and a road we can follow about half of the way.

Bidding farewell to Peak 5170’s W high point, the American Dingo headed NNE through the forest.  It was a bit of a trek to USFS Road No. 201.2A, which took her NNW.

On USFS Road No. 201.2A. Photo looks NW.

The sun had just set, and the light was already beginning to fade, when Lupe left No. 201.2A, heading W across a huge flat region to the area where she’d first come up Peak 5163 nearly 3 years ago.  Nearing the W edge of the mountain, the W wind was still heard in the pines, but at less than half its former strength.

Sunset from Peak 5163. Photo looks SW.

Almost there, Loopster!  The true summit is another 300 feet N.

4:12 PM, 49ºF, Peak 5163 – Lupe arrived an isolated 10 foot high rock formation unlike anything else on the vast, nearly level summit plain, as a few clouds were beginning to show some color.  Starting to get tired, the Carolina Dog actually wanted an initial boost onto the bottom of the formation from SPHP before finishing the little scramble to the top.

Arriving at Peak 5163’s summit formation. Photo looks NW.
At Peak 5163’s true summit (Center). Photo looks NW.
A somewhat hidden high point. Photo looks NW.

SPHP shook Lupe’s paw.

That does it, Sweet Puppy!  4 summits in one day, not bad for December!

Good thing we didn’t dilly-dally any longer at Buck Mountain or Peak 5566, SPHP.

Yeah, it’s going to be dark before we can get back to USFS Road No. 201, Loop.  We’ll find it, though.  Come on down, and let’s take a short break.  I’ve got another duck jerky and more Taste of the Wild for you.  Water, too, if you want it.

20 minutes after arriving, Lupe was back on the summit rock formation again.  This time, the American Dingo had scrambled up there entirely under her own power.  Beyond her, the NW horizon was on fire.

Sunset from Peak 5163 summit. Photo looks NW.

Pretty, but too many trees here to get a clear view, SPHP.

I know.  C’mon!  We can get a better view farther S along the W edge, if we hurry, Loopster.  It’s on the way back, anyway.  Onward!  Puppy, ho!

The display faded fast during the few minutes it took to grab the pack and head S, but a touch of glory still lingered on the horizon when Lupe got to the best spot.

Love it, SPHP!  A perfect end to a really fun day!

Oh, the fun isn’t over quite yet, Looper.  Still have some twilight exploring to do on the way back to USFS Road No. 201.

She stayed on Peak 5163 a little longer, but when the last dying embers of this wonderful day were gone, Lupe was, too.  (End 6:01 PM, 40ºF)

Sunset from Peak 5163, Black Hills of South Dakota 12-3-24
Lupe’s GPS Track

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                     Prior Black Hills Expedition

Lupe’s Scrollable GPS Track

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 291 – Peak 4980, Peak 5163 & Peak 5321 (1-17-21)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 246 – Peak 5136 (1-27-19)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 153 – Steamboat Rock, Pugg’s Keep & Green Top (1-23-16)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 151 – Buck Mountain (1-5-16)

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 116 – Green Mountain, Northern Rainbows & High Point 5219 (1-24-15)

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