10:13 AM, 56ºF – A gorgeous morning, comfortably cool and clear as a bell! Lupe paused on the Cleopatra Place bridge for a look at Spearfish Creek. SPHP was surprised by how much water there was even after a summer of drought. Squaw Creek, a tributary joining in immediately upstream of the bridge, was another matter. Squaw Creek did look low. Not a bad thing, since it would have to be rock-hopped a bunch of times on the way to the Devils Bathtub.
The Carolina Dog had attempted to visit the Devils Bathtub a couple of times in recent years, but had never made it all the way there. The first time, SPHP thought she had, and didn’t figure out until later that the Devils Bathtub actually must have been farther up Squaw Creek. The second time, ice and snow had made the rock-hopping so treacherous that SPHP had given up on it. Lupe wound up climbing Spearfish Peak (5,800 ft.) and Little Crow Peak (5,885 ft.) instead.
Third time a charm? Hopefully! Lupe continued on across the Cleopatra Place bridge. The Devils Bathtub trail, which goes up the Squaw Creek canyon, started just off to the R. The Carolina Dog quickly arrived at the first and only bridge over the little creek.
Although the Devils Bathtub trail would cross Squaw Creek numerous times, right after the bridge it stayed on the SW side of the creek for a while. Even here near the start, the canyon Lupe was venturing into was fairly narrow and steep-sided. The entire canyon was full of trees and bushes sporting fall colors. Loop enjoyed prowling among dead leaves and mossy stones looking for squirrels.
It didn’t take too long to get to the first stream ford, a crossing forced by a pinch point where Squaw Creek flowed right next to a wall of rock. With the water so low this time of year, the ford was an easy rock-hop for SPHP. Lupe didn’t bother rock-hopping, she just waded on through.
As Loop continued up the canyon, the cliffs forcing many of the stream crossings became taller and more impressive. In some places the trail was braided, with viable paths on both sides of Squaw Creek. None of the frequent fords presented any real difficulties. Slick, damp stones were the biggest worry for SPHP. Lupe didn’t worry at all.
Less than a mile from the start, the canyon narrowed some more. Lupe reached a spot where Squaw Creek flowed over bedrock at the base of a long cliff. Hugging the cliff, the Devils Bathtub trail went over shelves of solid rock right next to the stream.
Lupe soon came to a series of waterfalls plunging into pools several feet deep. Between these pools Squaw Creek raced through narrow chutes carved into the bedrock. The overall effect was very beautiful. In lots of places Lupe could leap over Squaw Creek in a single bound. Even SPHP could just step across.
It didn’t take long to reach the large pool SPHP had mistakenly taken for the Devils Bathtub during Lupe’s first attempt to find it 2 years ago.
A little bit of scrambling around on the rocks had been required shortly before reaching this point. Somewhat more challenging scrambling was required to go any further. Nothing too daunting, but Lupe did have to traverse short stretches on narrow ledges 15 or 20 feet above the creek.
As it turned out, Lupe had almost made it to the real Devils Bathtub two years ago. Only a few hundred feet upstream of the Fake Devils Bathtub, there it was!
Trotting along narrow ledges with complete confidence, Lupe arrived in jig time. SPHP, on the other paw, crept cautiously along the skinniest parts, but even that delayed arrival only momentarily.
Congratulations, Loopster, you made it!
So this is the Devils Bathtub, SPHP? The real one?
Yes, the official one! No doubt about it this time.
I’m not seeing any devils. Can’t sniff them, either. Are they invisible?
Hmm. Well, I’m not sure, maybe so? Or maybe it isn’t bath time? I hear they like to play dirty tricks, so they probably don’t bathe very often. Maybe just on Saturday nights?
Saturday night doesn’t make much sense to me, SPHP. I doubt the devils dress up and go to church on Sunday morning!
Good point, Looper. I really don’t know. Anyway, this is a beautiful spot, isn’t it? Let’s have a look around.
The Devils Bathtub wasn’t very big, so the “tour” didn’t take long at all.
Except close to the waterfall that raced down a slippery chute shaped like a waterslide into the Devils Bathtub, most of the pool wasn’t all that deep, just a few feet. That was plenty deep for a Carolina Dog, though. Lupe was not inclined to take a bath. She waded along the edge of the shallow downstream outlet getting her paws wet, but otherwise did not go in. SPHP avoided the water completely. July or August was really the time to be here.
The water was cold and clear. SPHP looked for fish, but they seemed to be just as scarce as devils.
Not all that much to the Devils Bathtub, is there, SPHP?
No, but it’s a scenic spot at the end of a nice hike, and quite a popular place to cool off in the summer.
I suppose its more exciting when the dirty devils show up. Want to go up by the waterfall, SPHP?
Sure!
To get to the waterfall meant scrambling up on another narrow ledge, but it was no big deal and gave a different perspective.
Neither Lupe nor SPHP was inclined to test the waterslide concept. Might not be as smooth and as slippery a ride as it looked, and it was October, after all. Would have been an exceedingly brisk experience.
Are we going any farther up the canyon, SPHP? Looks like we could!
No, think this is it, Loop. I went up there once a long time ago, before you were even around. Don’t really remember too much about it. There was a big old mine high on a steep hillside, the Cleopatra Mine, if memory serves, but the structure was crumbling away and dangerous even back then. From what I can remember, the Devils Bathtub is the last of these scenic larger pools along Squaw Creek.
If we aren’t going any farther then, SPHP, why don’t we relax right here for a while? Maybe we’ll get to see a devil!
Fine with me, but do you actually want to see a devil? They’re evil you know. Might be pretty dangerous if one comes along.
Oh, don’t worry about that, SPHP! I’ll bite any devils that try to give us a hard time.
That’s why I always travel with a Carolina Dog! You’re the best, Loopster!
A chocolate coconut bar, the American Dingo’s portion instantly inhaled, was shared at a sunny spot overlooking the Devils Bathtub. Sadly, not a single devil turned up for Lupe to do battle with before it was time to start back down the canyon.
12:10 PM, 61ºF, Devils Bathtub trailhead along Hwy 14A, Spearfish Canyon – The return trek was just as gorgeous as the journey to the Devils Bathtub had been, but seemed to go even faster. It was barely even lunchtime when Lupe arrived back at the RAV4.
What now, SPHP? We aren’t done for the day already are we?
Oh, no! Want to visit Spearfish Falls and Roughlock Falls while we’re in the area? The trailheads aren’t that far away, just a few miles up Spearfish Canyon at Savoy.
The American Dingo was fine with that. SPHP was soon parking the RAV4 at the Latchstring Restaurant. The restaurant grounds bordered Spearfish Falls, but to actually get a good look, it was necessary to take a short trail down to the bottom of Spearfish Canyon.
A huge bald eagle was sitting on a stump out in front of the restaurant. Before hitting the trail, Lupe went over to take a look at it.
Although a handsome specimen, the eagle proved none too lively, sitting completely motionless on its stump. The action-oriented Carolina Dog quickly lost interest. Heading over to the Spearfish Falls trail, she started the short journey down to the canyon floor.
The sign posted at the trailhead claimed that the Spearfish Falls trail was moderate difficulty and 1.5 miles round trip. Both were exaggerations. The wide, well-beaten path was mighty easy for Lupe, and it hardly seemed possible that it could have been 0.75 mile one way to the falls. Once down to the canyon floor, a short trek brought Lupe to a bridge over Spearfish Creek. The falls were only a little farther.
Spearfish Falls may well be the tallest and most impressive waterfall in the entire Black Hills region. Certainly worth the minor effort required to go see it! Even at SPHP’s relaxed pace, the round trip took just a half an hour.
Next up was Roughlock Falls, only a mile away on USFS Road No. 222, which took off from Hwy 14A over by the Latchstring Inn across from the restaurant. The Carolina Dog still had plenty of time left in the day, though. Instead of driving all the way, SPHP merely moved the RAV4 over to the Roughlock Falls trailhead just past the inn.
The Roughlock Falls trail was broad and smooth. Most of it was flat, or nearly so. Super easy! It went up the scenic side canyon carved by Little Spearfish Creek. The trail generally wasn’t all that close to the creek, but shortly after Lupe set out, there was an opportunity to head down to it.
Little Spearfish Creek was cold, clear, and several feet deep. Below the surface, dark green plants swayed in a swift current. Small trout darted from one hiding spot to the next.
A mile went by fast. Loop was soon standing on the boardwalk next to the cascades below Roughlock Falls. From down here there was a great view of the cascades, but only a glimpse of the main waterfall could be seen at the far end of a narrow gorge.
For the best views of Roughlock Falls itself, Looper needed to get to the upper viewing platforms. Crossing a nice bridge over Little Spearfish Creek, a short stroll along a sidewalk quickly brought her to the first of the upper viewpoints.
To get to the final viewpoint, Lupe crossed another bridge just upstream of the falls. This viewpoint overlooked the brink of the falls.
After enjoying Roughlock Falls from all these different vantage points, Loopster completed her tour by wandering through the picnic ground immediately upstream.
It was mid-afternoon when Lupe got back to the RAV4. The sky had been clouding up on the way to Roughlock Falls, but it was getting sunnier again now. The Carolina Dog had completed everything planned in the Spearfish Canyon area for today, so what now? Tomorrow snow was in the forecast. It would be a shame to just go home instead of enjoying what remained of this beautiful day.
This Black Hills Expedition seemed to be all about water. Since Lupe had never been to Roubaix Lake before, SPHP decided a relaxing drive through the central hills to go see it might be just the ticket.
On the way, a stop was made up on Minnesota Ridge (6,240 ft.). Lupe enjoyed a short romp looking for squirrels while SPHP had a look at the fall colors.
Then it was on to Roubaix Lake!
Roubaix Lake wasn’t very big, sort of a glorified pond, but it did feature a campground with a sandy beach, plus a trail that went about halfway around the lake.
The trail started at a bridge over the outlet for Middle Box Elder Creek. After crossing both the bridge and the dam, the trail headed SW right along the shoreline.
Middle Box Elder Creek enters Roubaix Lake over at the far SW end. The trail began to fade away as Lupe drew near. This part of the lake looked very shallow, full of mud and thick stands of tall reeds. Late afternoon sunlight highlighted the reeds’ colors, making them glow.
The trail went on, but appeared destined to disappear entirely. Probably about time to call it a day by now, anyway. A squirrel provided several minutes of excitement on the way back to the RAV4.
Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 279 had been a success! Getting all the way to the Devils Bathtub for time ever had been the main objective, and Lupe had made it. Third time had been a charm! Really hadn’t been hard at all. Spearfish Falls, Roughlock Falls, and Roubaix Lake were all just icing on the cake.
A lovely Black Hills autumn day, but tomorrow, a first taste of winter!
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