Lupe’s 2016 Last Mile North Revisited, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-23-22)

Day 25 of Lupe’s 2nd Summer of 2022 Dingo Vacation to Canada & Alaska!

1:53 PM, 55ºF, Dalton Highway MP 195.3, side road N of Nugget Creek – Rained all morning, which was OK since it was supposed to be a rest day, anyway, after Lupe’s grand adventures on her first ever backpacking trip in Alaska the past 3 days, but it wasn’t raining now.  SPHP closed the trip journal.

All caught up, SPHP?

No, not quite, but getting sick of writing, Loopster.  We ought to do something.

Outside the RAV4, the day was glum, darker again than it had been an hour ago.  Apparently in need of physical support, heavy gray clouds draped themselves over all the mountaintops.

Sounds good to me, SPHP, but what can we do on a dreary day like this?

Just so happens, I’ve got just the thing in mind, Looper!

2:26 PM, Dalton Highway pullout near MP 207 –

Recognize this place, Loopster?

No, I don’t.  Where are we, SPHP?

Ahh, well.  That’s because these mountains are hidden to such an extent.  You’ll recognize where we are soon enough.  This is a favorite spot from some years back, one that used to have a special significance.

I’ll need more of a clue than that, SPHP.  We’ve been to so many fabulous places!

Need a few clues, aye?  Follow me, Looper!

The RAV4 parked near Dalton Highway MP 207. Photo looks S.

Crossing the Dalton Highway, SPHP led Lupe along a short access road, then turned NE.

The Alaska oil pipeline, SPHP!

By the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks E.

That’s right, Loop.  Now think – we’re in the Brooks Range, and what mountains did we see off to the N from Peak 3780 a few days back?

Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) and Dillon Mountain (4,820 ft.).  Oh, I get it!  This is my old last mile N trek from 2016, isn’t it, SPHP?

Sure is, sweet puppy!  A perfect, easy stroll even on a gloomy day like this, too.  Shall we?

Oh, I can’t wait, SPHP!  I love this place!  Been ever so long since we’ve been here.

Following the pipeline N for the first time in years, Lupe didn’t see any of the bunnies that used to live in the brush near the manicured service road, or the curious ravens that used to follow her hopping along up on the pipeline itself.

Nevertheless, it was awesome just being here again in the cool, moist air beneath the sullen sky.  The Carolina Dog did get to see the shallow pond W of the pipeline again.  It hadn’t gone anywhere.

The familiar shallow pond W of the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks WNW.

Somewhat more than a mile along the pipeline led to the stream that flows W from the valley N of Dillon Mountain.  When Lupe got there, it was running fairly high for this time of year, spread out over a broad, stony floodplain.

Dillon Creek at the N end of the traditional Last Mile N pipeline trek. Photo looks NE.

We used to call this stream Dillon Creek, remember, SPHP?

Yeah.  Still seems reasonable.  Don’t think it has any other name, Loop.

We go W from here to the confluence of Dillon Creek and the Dietrich River, right, SPHP?

Yup, that’s where your last mile N ended in 2016, Looper.

Looking in the direction of the confluence with the Dietrich River. Photo looks WNW.

Lupe wanted to go to the official end of her 2016 Last Mile N trek down at the confluence.  SPHP wanted to, too, but had foolishly forgotten to bring the new red rain jacket, and all the bushes in the forest were still sopping wet.

Are you kidding me?  How could you forget your rain jacket, SPHP, after all the rain we’ve seen over the past few days?  Look at the sky!  Looks like RAIN at any moment, doesn’t it?

Oh, I know.  Silly me.  Guess I just wasn’t thinking.  Sort of thought that we could just wander down that way along the floodplain, but Dillon Creek is right up against the near bank now, and I don’t want to get my boots wet.

Well, it’s kind of a big deal, SPHP.  How often are we here, anyway?  Hardly ever.  Last time was clear back in 2017.  This was our big chance!

Sorry, Loop.  We’ll do this again soon, and go all the way to the confluence to make it official.  How does that sound?  We’ll get to do this twice!

Only once good and proper, SPHP.  And how “soon” is soon?

Maybe tomorrow, before we continue N, Loop.  Or on our way back S a week or two from now.

Oh, well, I suppose that wouldn’t be so bad.  Promise, SPHP?

I promise, sweet puppy, provided the weather isn’t dreadful.

OK then, SPHP.  Just don’t forget.  Remember, you promised!

Since SPHP didn’t want to get wet, it was already time to head back.  The return was every bit as pleasant with iconic Sukakpak Mountain, most famous peak along the Dalton Highway, ahead in the distance.  Too bad the summit was still in the clouds, but, of course, it was going to be on a day like this.

Heading back along the Alaska oil pipeline. Sukakpak Mountain (R). Photo looks S.
Continuing S. Sukakpak Mountain (L). Photo looks SSE.

Near the very end, the American Dingo went right on by the access road back to the Dalton Highway all the way to where the Alaska oil pipeline crossed the Dietrich River.  The Dalton Highway bridge was in sight from here with Sukakpak Mountain beyond it.  Sukakpak’s great N fin was now cloud-free.

Dalton Highway bridge over the Dietrich River. N fin of Sukakpak Mountain (R). Photo looks SSE.

3:39 PM, Dalton Highway pullout near MP 207 –

Wow, I’m glad we did that, SPHP!  Great idea, although it would have been even better if you’d remembered to bring your rain jacket so we could have gone all the way to the confluence.  Why are you humans such a bunch of sissies, anyway?  Getting a little wet wouldn’t have killed you.

Maybe so, but look at it this way, Looper.  You’ve still got my promise to come back again real soon, and do it up right next time.

That will be wonderful, if it actually happens, SPHP.  By the way, speaking of what happens, what’s next now?

As rainy as it’s been, Loop, I’m thinking maybe it wouldn’t hurt to drive back to Coldfoot.  Bet I can get an updated weather forecast at the Arctic Interagency Visitor Center.  Might actually help us decide what we ought to do next.

Not a bad idea, SPHP!  You could also go to the restaurant at Coldfoot Camp, and get me another big, juicy, barbecued beef rib from the buffet!

Heh.  Maybe, Loop.  They don’t serve the buffet until 5:00 PM, though.  We ought to be there in plenty of time to order a hamburger instead, which might cost quite a bit less.

Not if you’re buying one for me, too, SPHP!  And you better!

A little later at Coldfoot Camp, 60ºF –

Sorry, you can’t order from the menu now.  Restaurant closes at 4:15 PM to get ready for the buffet.  $27.95 tax included, all you can eat.  Buffet opens at 5:00 PM, runs until 9:00 PM.

What time is it?

4:16 PM.

Figures.

That was fast, SPHP!  Did you bring me a hamburger?

No.  They said we’re having the buffet, Loop, but not for a little while yet.  Let’s go get that weather forecast.

The Arctic Interagency Visitor Center did have a 5 day forecast.  Not a very good one.  Temperatures were fine.  High’s in the 50’s, and lows in the 40’s ºF.  No wind to speak of, either.  Every day overcast, foggy, or at least mostly cloudy, though, with a significant chance of rain.  A mere 40% tomorrow, but 60% or more after that.

Huh.  Sometimes the truth isn’t that helpful.

Coldfoot Camp, 6:00 PM –

About time, SPHP!  Anything left at the buffet?  More importantly, did you bring me another luscious, barbecued beef rib?

Nope.  Buffet was different tonight, Loopster.  No ribs.  Chicken or pulled pork.  Since we’ve had plenty of chicken earlier on this Dingo Vacation, I brought you pulled pork.  Think you’ll like it.  Here you go.  Have at it!

7:09 PM, 60ºF, Dalton Highway MP 195.3, side road N of Nugget Creek –

We’re staying here again tonight, SPHP?

Yeah, why not?  Nice and quiet and secluded.  I like it!  So, how was that pulled pork?

Scrumptious, SPHP!  Thank you!  Too bad we can’t get the big buffet every night on this Dingo Vacation.  Have to admit that the pulled pork lacked the bone crunching satisfaction of the barbecued ribs, though.

Glad to hear you enjoyed the pork, Loop.  Figured you would.  Want to take a stroll?  Hardly any traffic out on the Dalton Highway at this hour.

Walking only a little way N along the quiet highway, a magnificent sight soon came into view off in the distance.

SPHP, look!  There’s sunshine on Sukakpak!  It’s out of the clouds!

It was true.  Even some blue sky over that way.  Time to keep a promise!

Back to the RAV4, Loopster!  We’ll get a few pictures, then do up your 2016 Last Mile North the way it ought to be done this time.

Blue skies over Sukakpak Mountain! Photo looks NE.
Sukakpak Mountain from the Dalton Highway. Photo looks NE.
Dillon Mountain beyond the Bettles River. Photo looks ENE.

7:55 PM, Dalton Highway pullout near MP 207 – This time as Lupe set out along the Alaska oil pipeline, she turned S first, going the short distance to where the pipeline crossed the Dietrich River.  Best to get another look at Sukakpak Mountain (4,459 ft.) from this angle before the clouds had a chance to regroup.

Dalton Highway bridge over the Dietrich River with Sukakpak Mountain beyond. Photo looks SSE.
Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks SSE.

It was a perfect evening as Lupe followed the Alaska oil pipeline N once again.  Thrilling to see so much blue sky around!  Maybe the weather forecast was wrong?  If so, the Carolina Dog might get a chance to climb Sukakpak Mountain tomorrow!  That would be so incredibly fantastic!

Following the Alaska oil pipeline N for the 2nd time today. Photo looks NE.

Full of such happy, stimulating thoughts, Lupe reached Dillon Creek in what seemed like no time at all.  SPHP was prepared, already wearing the new, red rain jacket.  Pushing past an initial line of alders and other tall bushes, Lupe headed W into the forest.

A luxurious Christmas carpet of thick, green moss, and short red bushes greeted the American Dingo.  Although there were many tall bushes, too, the forest was fairly open, and easy to navigate.  Displaying great energy and enthusiasm, Loopster sniffed and explored her way W through this hidden, special place, where it instantly felt like she was being magically transported back to a day long ago.

On the Christmas carpet. Photo looks W.

After 0.6 mile, Lupe reached the E bank of the Dietrich River.  Down on the rounded stones and sand of the floodplain, Lupe followed the river upstream to the confluence with Dillon Creek.

8:47 PM, confluence of the Dietrich River and Dillon Creek – This was the place!  Where does the time go?  It had been more than 6 years now since Lupe had first been here on a beautiful August day.  The dark blue mountain Lupe had seen the day before back then from the summit of Sukakpak Mountain, the one that SPHP had dubbed the Mountain of the Midnight Sun, was in sight again off to the N, it’s summit lost in cloud.

Confluence of the Dietrich River (L) and Dillon Creek (R). Mountain of the Midnight Sun (L of Center) in the distance. Photo looks NNE.

Remember how we thought this was as far N as we would ever be back in 2016, SPHP?

I’ll never forget that, Loop.  It was as far N as we went then.  For a whole year, I was always sorry we turned around without finding out what was beyond this point.

We returned, though, in 2017, SPHP, right back here before going all the way to Deadhorse!

Yeah, that was awesome, such fun times, Loopster!  Really only thought we’d get as far as the N Slope in 2017.  Everyone we’d talked to said that Deadhorse was just an ugly industrial place, and that going any farther wasn’t worth it.  Once we got to the N slope, though, we couldn’t stop and turn around again.  Would have regretted it forever!

Turned out to be marvelous, SPHP!  Like going to the end of the world!

Indeed it was, Looper.  Only bad thing was that no Dingoes were allowed on the Arctic Ocean tour.  Had to go as your personal representative.

We’re going to Deadhorse this year, too, right, SPHP?

Absolutely, sweet puppy!  Not turning around after coming this far again until we’re at the very end.

Many adventures to look forward to, to be sure!  Right now, though, on this wonderful evening, Lupe lingered at this marvelous, magical place, remembering.

To the SE, Dillon Mountain was a mountain of gold!  To the S, the spires of Sukakpak soared skyward in the late evening sun.  Miles N loomed the dark blue mysteries of the Mountain of the Midnight Sun.  Turned out it had a real name, Snowden Mountain (6,420 ft.), but Lupe had never climbed it.  Too steep for SPHP.

Dillon Creek (L) and Dillon Mountain (R). Photo looks SE.
Sukakpak Mountain (Center). Photo looks S.
Sukakpak Mountain. Photo looks S.
Mountain of the Midnight Sun (L of Center) from the confluence of the Dietrich River (L) and Dillon Creek (R). Photo looks NNE.

You can go back to a place you love after a long absence, but it’s never quite the same.  Even if the place hasn’t changed, you have.  What once was, is no more.  Happily, despite a 5 year absence, Lupe’s 2016 last mile N hadn’t changed much at all, and the spirited Carolina Dog was once again looking forward to fabulous adventures ahead.

Doesn’t get any better than that!

Before we go, SPHP, we should get a souvenir!  Something to remember this place and time.  How about a snazzy rock for my rock collection?

Great idea, Loopster!  I’ll have a look around, see what I can find.

A smooth white pebble with a gold swirl plucked from Dillon Creek only a few feet from the Dietrich River seemed a good choice.  Lupe gave it a sniff of approval, and it was time to go.

The souvenir pebble.

Then it was back through the magical forest to the Alaska oil pipeline, and the easy stroll S in the cool evening air with Sukakpak Mountain ahead, the sky blue with promise for what tomorrow might bring.  (8:52 PM)

Heading back along the Alaska oil pipeline. Photo looks S.
Evening at Sukakpak Mountain (L of Center). Photo looks S.
Lupe’s 2016 Last Mile North Revisited, Brooks Range, Alaska 8-23-22

Links:

Next Adventure                    Prior Adventure

Lupe’s Last Mile North, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-14-16)

Sukakpak Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-13-16)

Dillon Mountain, Brooks Range, Alaska (8-15-16)

BLM Dalton Highway Visitor Guide

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