Bomber Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 2: Gunboat Lake to Florence Pass & the Summit (7-15-18)

Day 3 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming

7-15-18, the wee hours, Gunboat Lake – The crisis struck when Lupe woke SPHP up.  She wanted out of her new Marmot tiny house.  No telling what time it was.  SPHP let her go.  The American Dingo shot off into the night.  No stars.  The silent night was pitch black.  Must be cloudy.

Loop was back soon enough, and settled down to snooze some more.  Though profoundly weary, SPHP couldn’t.  Those faint flashes of light, were they real or imaginary?  SPHP listened.  Nothing.  Eventually two brighter flashes were conclusive.  Lightning!

Was a storm bearing down upon Gunboat Lake?  Was the weather going to be rotten in the morning, destroying Lupe’s chances of ever making it up Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.)?  Even if it wasn’t, how was SPHP ever going to accompany her up there feeling so pathetically drained and weak?

The mind raced.  Fears multiplied.  Real or imaginary?  Potentially either, perhaps, but unrealized yet.  Low blood sugar was fueling the fear.  Nuts and applesauce!  Get that blood sugar back up!  A couple of hours of mental failing went by.  SPHP fell into a deep sleep.

7-15-18, 7:32 AM – Heh.  When even the Carolina Dog is sleeping in, you know it had been a long day!  The morning news was all good, though.  No storm had ever materialized.  Sunshine, in fact!  Scarcely a cloud in the sky.  Gunboat Lake sparkled.  Bomber Mountain loomed off to the NE, daring the American Dingo to try it.  SPHP was still fatigued, but yeah – a perfect day!  Weary or not, Loopster was gonna do this!

Loop sacked out in her brand new Marmot tiny house. Gathering strength for Bomber Mountain, ya’ know!

Slowly SPHP got ready.  At least the Marmot tiny house and sleeping bags could be left here at Gunboat Lake.  A lighter pack would help a lot.

Miss Sleepyhead revived and made her appearance.  She was moving a bit slowly, too.  Loop sniffed around lazily and stretched.  Didn’t appear she was in any great hurry to go anywhere.  Understandable.  This little ridge overlooking Gunboat Lake was a glorious place to be!

Miss Sleepyhead makes a leisurely appearance. Gunboat Lake is on the R. One of the smaller Fortress Lakes on the L. Bomber Mountain is in the distance on the L. The valley at Center leads to Florence Pass. Photo looks NE.
Gunboat Lake on the L. Peak 10860 in the distance on the R.  Photo looks SW.

Before long the pack was ready, even if SPHP wasn’t.  Feeling it or not, Lupe was on her way!

Loop at base camp prior to departure for Bomber Mountain (L). Photo looks NE.

Being on the move again put a spring in Lupe’s step.  Her energy came surging back.  Nose to the ground, she raced along sniffing everywhere.  Instead of heading straight for the Solitude Trail to Florence Pass, Looper went down to explore the NE shore of Gunboat Lake first.  Gunboat Lake was gorgeous!

The NE end of Gunboat Lake sparkles in the morning sunshine. Photo looks E.
Loop by Gunboat Lake, a favorite spot in the Bighorn Mountains. Photo looks SSW.
Looking along the length of Gunboat Lake. Peak 10860 in the distance on the R. Photo looks SW.

From the NE end of Gunboat Lake, it wasn’t far to the Solitude Trail.  The trail was good all the way to Florence Pass (10,900 ft.) 0.75 mile from camp.  Florence Lake came into sight as soon as Lupe reached the pass.

NE of Gunboat Lake. The Solitude Trail goes up the valley ahead before curving to the L (N) where it reaches Florence Pass beyond the hill seen on the L. Photo looks NE.
At Florence Pass. Florence Lake dead ahead! Photo looks N.

Florence Lake nestles just N of Florence Pass in a spectacular setting!  The whole N shore of Florence Lake was surrounded by massive ridges, all part of the SW reaches of Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.).  A waterfall plunged noisily into the NE corner of the lake.

Upon reaching Florence Pass, the Solitude Trail turned ESE staying well above the lake’s S shore.  North Clear Creek flows out of the SE end of Florence Lake.  When Lupe got to where she could see the outlet, the views were encouraging!

Though a big stream, North Clear Creek was chock full of rocks.  Looper ought to be able to rock hop it!  The headwall beyond North Clear Creek was steep, but definitely climbable.  Situation excellent!  Lupe headed for North Clear Creek.

E end of Florence Lake. Golden Lakes are up in the canyon beyond the headwall on the far shore. The waterfall is difficult to discern, but plunges from the low cliffs L of Center directly into the lake. The North Clear Creek outlet is just out of sight to the R. Photo looks NE.
North Clear Creek leaves Florence Lake from the area directly beyond Lupe. Once across the stream, Loop would climb the headwall on the other side staying mostly in the green areas toward the R. Photo looks NE.
The upper end of Florence Canyon from the S bank of North Clear Creek as it exits Florence Lake. Photo looks SE.

Lupe was across North Clear Creek in nothing flat.  SPHP wasn’t nearly so agile, but rock hopped it, too.  Wondering what was taking so long, Loop came partway back to give SPHP encouragement.

North Clear Creek outlet from Florence Lake. Lupe shot across across the rock-choked stream in no time at all. She’s the brown speck on the R at the edge of the greenery on the N bank. Photo looks NNE.
Florence Lake from the North Clear Creek outlet. Photo looks W.

Once across North Clear Creek, the easy part was over.  The Solitude Trail turned ESE disappearing down Florence Canyon.  A relentless trek higher was about to begin.  More than 2.5 miles and 2,000 vertical feet of up, all the way to the as yet unseen summit of Bomber Mountain.

The first step was to get up the 300 foot high headwall NE of Florence Lake.  The climb was steep, but not bad.  Lanes of vegetation allowed Lupe to avoid much more difficult areas of nothing but rock.  The worst part was simply how played out SPHP felt from yesterday’s long march to Gunboat Lake.  Starting off tired wasn’t good.  Bomber Mountain was going to be a long, long day.

A spectacular day, though!  The view of Florence Lake from the top of the headwall was amazing.

Florence Lake from the headwall. North Clear Creek is below on the L. Florence Pass is L of the big snow bank farthest L on the opposite shore. Base camp at Gunboat Lake is out of sight below the dark distant ridge on the L. Photo looks SW.

The original intention was to go up the big canyon NE of the headwall at least far enough to see the Golden Lakes from High Point 11328.  Lupe started off that way, but the terrain was really rough.  Patches of green here and there, but mostly broken rock.  Progress was slow despite not gaining much elevation.

Heading up the canyon NE of the headwall. The intention was to go far enough to see the Golden Lakes from High Point 11328 (in view within the canyon a little R of Center – topo map). Photo looks NE.

Loop got fairly close to High Point 11328 before SPHP decided it wasn’t worth the effort.  The Carolina Dog was no longer rock hopping, but scrambling among huge boulders.  She was good at it, but SPHP was barely moving.  Wasting too much time!  Better get above all this giant debris.

Abandoning the High Point 11328 idea, Lupe scrambled E directly up the side of the canyon.  Also slow going at first, but no worse than down below and at least getting higher.  Conditions began to improve.  Scattered green lanes of vegetation appeared.  Making progress again!  Heart, lungs, and legs dictated the pace instead of obstacles.

This is way better than down among all those huge boulders! Photo looks ENE.

Lupe never did see the Golden Lakes on the way up.  She was too far E.  The climb went on and on, but this was the worst of it.  Loop must have been feeling the effects of yesterday’s long march, too.  She wanted to stop often to rest and be petted.

SPHP could hardly disagree.  The danger was in sitting around too long.  Would be so easy to simply get wrapped up in relaxing and enjoying the views, and end up proceeding too slowly to ever get there.  SPHP tried to keep the rest breaks short.

Puppy, ho!  Onward!  Rinse and repeat.  Endlessly.

The views became ever more impressive.  Gradually the going became easier.  The slope of the terrain was slackening.  Good thing.  Despite, or perhaps because of the glorious surroundings, energy was fading, too.  The terrain led Lupe to turn more and more to the NE, then NNE.

A high point that had been visible from way back at base camp was off to the N.  It was still far away, but Lupe was definitely getting closer.  Was that the summit of Bomber Mountain?  If not, it had to be close to it, didn’t it?

Getting easier, but still a long way to the high point at Center that might be the summit of Bomber Mountain. Golden Lakes, which Lupe never saw on the way up, are hidden down in the canyon on the L. High Point 12436 is the lower of the 2 ridges at far R. Photo looks N.

Higher, higher!  Vegetation all but disappeared.  Nothing but rock.

At each rest break, SPHP tried to judge how high Lupe was by comparing her position with other mountaintops where the elevation was known.  Finally, it was possible to see that Looper was getting nearly as high as Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.) off to the S.  This had to be High Point 12436 on the topo map that Loop was coming to.

Approaching High Point 12436. Still 0.75 mile S of the summit of Bomber Mountain. Photo looks NE.
Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.) are the two high points on the L. Peak 12328 is on the R. It had looked possible to access these peaks from the ridge SE of Florence Lake. Photo looks S.

Lupe got very close to the top of High Point 12346, but passed W of it.  She actually lost elevation heading NW around cliffs to the N.  By now a small distant ridge E of the high point SPHP had thought might be the summit of Bomber Mountain was in view.

That distant ridge was it!  The true summit of Bomber Mountain.  Only 0.75 mile away now!  Tired, very tired, but Lupe was going to get there!

W of High Point 12436, the true summit of Bomber Mountain comes into view (R). Photo looks N.
A steep snowbank clings to cliffs N of High Point 12436. True summit of Bomber Mountain (Center) dead ahead. Photo looks N.
Near the steep snowbank N of High Point 12436. Photo looks E.
Peering down the canyon E of High Point 12436 (R). The northernmost of the Powell Lakes is in view. Photo looks SE.

N of High Point 12436 a huge, narrow ridge extended far to the E.  This ridge was nearly as high as the summit of Bomber Mountain, still 0.5 mile farther N.  Towering cliffs surrounded the ridge, and ran all along the entire E face of Bomber Mountain.

A 12,580 ft. saddle N of the scary E ridge led to the summit of Bomber Mountain.  The rocks got smaller and the terrain easier as Lupe made her way toward it.  She crossed a snowfield on the way, but it wasn’t steep.  Upon reaching the saddle, Lupe could see Lake 11124 and a string of smaller ones off to the NE.

Loop relaxes 0.5 mile from the summit. Part of Bomber Mountain’s giant SW ridge is in view. Photo looks WSW.
At the 12,580 ft. saddle. Bomber Mountain’s E ridge is on the R. Lake 11124 is the closest one below. The large lake in the distance is Cloud Peak Reservoir. Photo looks NE.

0.25 mile and 260 vertical feet to go!  Lupe headed up yet another rocky slope, steeper than what she had gone through on the way to the saddle.  Nothing too difficult.  Wasn’t long before she was almost there.  Off to the W Looper could see the high rocky knob that had been visible from base camp.

Almost there! The rocky knob that had been visible from base camp is on the L. The true summit is a bit farther off the R edge of this photo. Photo looks WSW.

And then she was there!  Lupe scrambled up a jumble of large rocks.  A small cairn sat near the high point.  The summit of Bomber Mountain was on the brink of a dizzying precipice.  The high point visible from camp could be seen from here, too.  It looked every bit as high as where the cairn was.  If she had time later on, Loop would go over there, too.

Success! Lupe stands next to Bomber Mountain’s summit cairn. Photo looks WSW.
Looking WSW along the summit ridge. The high point that had been visible from base camp (Center) looked as high as where Lupe was now.

Off to the N was the eye-popping view that the Carolina Dog had come all this way for.  Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.), mightiest of the Bighorn Range, was on display in all its magnificent glory!

Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.) (L) is the highest peak of the Bighorn Mountains. Farther away, straight up from Lupe’s head, Mount Woolsey (12,978 ft.) and Black Tooth Mountain (13,005 ft.) are together at Center. The E end of Glacier Lake is seen on the R. Photo looks NW.

A metal canister containing a registry was laying on a rock amid the highest ones.  SPHP signed in for Lupe.

This metal canister containing a registry was found as shown amid the highest rocks.

Bomber Mountain is named after a B-17 Flying Fortress that crashed into one of it’s vast ridges on June 28th, 1943 during World War II.  All 10 men aboard were killed.  Along with the climber registry, the canister contained a separate Bomber registry commemorating the crash victims.

B-17 Flying Fortress crash registry.

The weather was near perfect.  Clouds were building to the NE, but the wind was out of the W at 10 mph.  The sky was clear in that direction, and the temperature was a pleasant 60°F.  There didn’t appear to be any urgency at all to start back down the mountain.  Fabulous!

Neither Lupe nor SPHP were anxious to leave.  However, after a quick look at the stunning views, a longer rest break was in order.  The highest rocks were a jumble with no good place for Lupe to get comfortable.  W of the summit was a shelf of flatter rocks 10 feet lower.  Lupe and SPHP retreated down there for food, water, and to simply relax.

Lupe taking it easy at her Bomber Mountain break area W of the summit.

Resting felt great.  The views were grand.  The weather cooperative.  For an hour and a half Lupe and SPHP hung around the summit area, sometimes down at or near the break spot, sometimes up at the very top.  Last night’s worries were but a memory.  Lupe was really here!  Her Bomber Mountain experience was superb!

Glacier Lake (L), Sapphire Lake (Center), and Diamond Lake (R). Photo looks NNE.
A newly rested mighty American Dingo returns to the Bomber Mountain summit cairn. Cloud Peak (Center). Mount Woolsey and Black Tooth Mountain together on the R (above Lupe;s back). Photo looks NW.
Hey, look! I’m even higher than the cairn (R)! … For pity sake Loop! Don’t get any closer to the edge! Cloud Peak (R). Photo looks WNW.
Loop up top among the clouds. Photo looks NE.
Looper on the brink along the edge of the rest area. The views weren’t too shabby from here, either! Cloud Peak (L), Mount Woolsey and Black Tooth Mountain (Center). Peak 12590 (R) beyond Lupe. Photo looks NW.
Looking W at the canyon separating Bomber Mountain from Cloud Peak.
Part of the steepish N face of Bomber Mountain (L). Photo looks W with help from the telephoto lens.
Cloud Peak (Center) from Bomber Mountain. Photo looks NW.

Of course, the stupendous views to the NW and N of the most rugged part of the Bighorn Range held the attention more than what lay in any other direction.  Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.), Mount Woolsey (12,978 ft.), Black Tooth Mountain (13,005 ft.), Peak 12590 and Peak 12644 were all spread out in a glorious panoramic display along with Glacier, Sapphire and Diamond Lakes.

That didn’t mean there weren’t other splendid scenes to gaze upon, too!  Strung out along the lofty spine of the Bighorn Range were Peak 12328, Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.) and others beyond them to the S.  Lupe might even have seen Darton Peak (12,275 ft.), but it was very far away.

Looking S along the spine of the Bighorn Range. Mather Peaks are on either side of Center. Peak 12328 is on the R. Closer at hand is the 12,580 ft. saddle Lupe had come up by. Part of Bomber Mountain’s E ridge is on the L. High Point 12436 is along the edge beyond the crevasse R of Center.
Bomber Mountain’s E ridge. Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

Well past mid-afternoon.  Getting back to Gunboat Lake was a long trek.  Despite being downhill nearly the entire way, the rocky terrain would prevent as rapid a return as one might expect.  Time for a few closeups of the grandest peaks, then Lupe would have to be on her way.

Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.). Lupe had been there in 2016! Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Black Tooth Mountain (13,005 ft.) juts up from behind Mount Woolsey (12,978 ft.), the high, short ridge at Center. Photo looks NW with help from the telephoto lens.
Peak 12,590 (L) looms in the distance well beyond Glacier Lake. Photo looks NNW, again with plenty of help from the telephoto lens.
Well, that’s about it from the summit of Bomber Mountain! Stick around a little longer, though, if you’d like to see the beautiful Golden Lakes on the way down!

Leaving the official summit, Lupe traveled WSW toward that seemingly equally high point that had been visible from base camp.  She got only partway there.  The WSW high point was farther than it first appeared.  It was taking longer than expected to get there across the endless rocks.

So close, but yet so far!  Too much time had gone by already.  Shouldn’t have dilly-dallied quite so long at the official summit.  SPHP decided Loop would have to settle for a photo.

The WSW high point that Lupe started for, but which SPHP made her give up on. Photo looks W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

After that, it was down, down, down!  Lupe made good progress.  Being able to see what was ahead from above helped to avoid the worst of the boulder fields.  The Carolina Dog stayed farther W this time, hoping to get a look at the Golden Lakes.  Eventually they did come into view.

Looking back up at the official summit of Bomber Mountain shortly after starting the descent. Photo looks N.
Gunboat Lake (Center) was in view during much of the descent. Peak 11080 (Center) is in the distance. Photo looks SW.
Gunboat Lake (L), Florence Lake (Center), and a couple of the Golden Lakes (lower R) from Bomber Mountain’s S ridge. Photo looks SW.
Lupe did get to see the Golden Lakes (lower R) after all. Somehow they were much bluer than she expected. Photo looks SW.
Uppermost of the Golden Lakes with Bomber Mountain’s SW ridge in the background. Photo looks NW.
Uppermost of the Golden Lakes with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

How many rocks had Lupe leapt onto or over?  Thousands.  While going down was faster, even this was tiring work.  Loopster was getting sick of the rocks.  She wanted to rest and be reassured frequently.  Feeling the same way, SPHP obliged, but time was a-wasting.  The rest breaks were all as brief as possible.

The sun was behind Bomber Mountain’s SW ridge by the time Lupe reached the headwall overlooking Florence Lake.  The American Dingo was thrilled when she finally got down to the Solitude Trail again.  No more obstacles, but the sun had set.

Light faded as Lupe and SPHP marched back to Florence Pass and on down toward Gunboat Lake.  Clouds were building to the W, but SPHP hadn’t really paid much attention to them.  The very minute Looper reached her new Marmot tiny house, a few raindrops fell.  A peel of thunder echoed through the mountains.

That was all it took.  Lupe and SPHP ducked into the tiny house pronto.  Only 2 or 3 minutes later the storm broke.  Lightning, thunder, torrential rain!  The Marmot tiny house shook violently in a gale that threatened to flatten it.  In a darkness rent by flashes of lightning, Lupe stared up at SPHP wide eyes full of concern, while SPHP sought to reassure her the destruction that seemed imminent wasn’t going to happen.

It didn’t.  15 minutes, and it was over.  No relapse, just done.  The storm sailed off to wherever.  In her old tiny house Lupe, SPHP, and every bit of gear would have been drenched.  The Marmot tiny house had withstood the storm and leaked only a few drops.

What a day!  What an utterly exhausting and exhilarating day! A bite to eat, then cozy, safe, and dry, Lupe and SPHP collapsed for the night.

Back at the headwall overlooking Florence Lake near day’s end, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming 7-15-18

Links:

The Legend of Bomber Mountain

Next Adventure                 Prior Adventure

Bomber Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 1: The Solitude Trail to Gunboat Lake (7-14-18)

Cloud Peak, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (7-19-16) – Part 1: The Mistymoon Trail to Base Camp

Cloud Peak, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming (7-20-16) – Part 2: Paint Rock Creek Falls Base Camp to the Summit

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe Adventures.

Bomber Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 1: The Solitude Trail to Gunboat Lake (7-14-18)

Days 1 & 2 of Lupe’s 2018 Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains & Wind River Range in Wyoming!

7-13-18, morning – No doubt about it.  Something was in the works – something big!  All the signs were there.  SPHP scurried endlessly about.  As hours ticked by, Lupe gave up on following SPHP around.  Apparently whatever was going on wasn’t happening imminently.

SPHP had a present for Lupe!  A bag on the front step said a marmot was inside, a dandy gift certain to be well received by an American Dingo.  However, SPHP said there wasn’t actually a marmot in it.  Disappointing, to say the least.  A new tiny house was inside.  Lupe’s old one had lacked a rain cover all these years, and was showing signs of wear and tear.

Lupe with her gift from SPHP.

7-13-18, 3:00 PM – Finally!  It was on now!  Lupe was in the G6 on her pile of pillows and blankets.  SPHP turned onto I-90.  The Carolina Dog was bound for Wyoming!  A bright, shiny, brand new Dingo Vacation was underway!

7-13-18, 6:30 PM – Less than a month after her last Dingo Vacation to the Bighorn Mountains had ended abruptly due to rainy weather, Lupe was back!  This time she was in the southern Bighorns at Powder River Pass (9,677 ft.).  During a short break from the G6, Loop ventured up to a small rock outcropping S of the pass.

Peak 10215 from Powder River Pass. Photo looks NE.

The views were gorgeous!  Lupe was inspired to go mountain climbing right this very minute!  However, she would have to wait.  Getting into position to start for Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.) tomorrow was all that was on the agenda this evening.

SPHP drove W on Hwy 16.  2 miles past Meadowlark Lake was a R (W) turn onto USFS Road No. 27 at Deer Haven Lodge.  No. 27 promptly turned N.  1.5 miles from Hwy 16, Lupe reached a junction where USFS Road No. 24 curved away to the L (W).  A sign indicated it was 15 miles to Battle Park.  Another sign said No. 24 was NOT an all-weather road.

After Lupe’s escape from Big Pryor Mountain at the end of her last Dingo Vacation, the sign gave SPHP pause.  Even so, the die was cast.  Looper was at least going to try to get to the Bucking Mule Trailhead at Battle Park.  Fortunately, other approaches to Bomber Mountain existed, if this one didn’t pan out.

No. 24 to Battle Park wasn’t so bad, nowhere near as worrisome as the road to Big Pryor Mountain had been.  Plenty of potholes and stones, but there were always ways around them.  SPHP drove slowly.  Lupe rode with her head out the window having a blast looking for squirrels and deer.

After 14 miles in 45 minutes, Lupe reached the Middle Fork of Paint Rock Creek.  A small trailhead was on the R 0.25 mile farther on.  This was the Middle Fork trailhead from which Trail No. 066 provides access to Lily Lake.  A sign said registration was required to enter the wilderness.  The station was 0.25 mile away at Battle Park.

SPHP parked the G6.  Lupe and SPHP walked to Battle Park.  0.25 mile was more like 0.75 mile.  When Lupe finally did reach Battle Park, SPHP was amazed.  Expecting solitude, the place was packed with pickup trucks, trailers, people, horses and dogs!

Battle Park wasn’t exactly deserted when Lupe arrived. Photo looks NW.

Posted information at the entrance to Battle Park made no mention of any registration station.  SPHP finally asked a group of people sitting around a bonfire about it.  Oh, the registration station was still farther up the road at the opposite end of Battle Park.

SPHP registered.  Lupe visited the Bucking Mule trailhead at the end of the road.  Upon returning to the G6, she found a squirrel right away at the Middle Fork trailhead, and watched it until dark.

Although it was only 59°F out, the G6 was warm.  Lupe lapped up lots of water, but spent hours panting atop her blankets.  The Carolina Dog was tremendously excited, and too wound up to sleep.

It’s all so exciting! I wonder what’s going to happen tomorrow?

7-14-18, early – Despite having spent half the night awake, Lupe was up before the sun.  She picked up right where she had left off yesterday evening.  The forest rang with shrill, happy barking as the American Dingo rediscovered the same poor, bleary-eyed squirrel.  Meanwhile, SPHP was getting ready.

At the Middle Fork trailhead 0.75 mile (NOT 0.25 mile!) from Battle Park.

7-14-18, 7:04 AM – The squirrel was going to have a fine day, after all.  SPHP had granted it relief.  Lupe and the G6 were now at the Bucking Mule trailhead just past Battle Park at the end of USFS Road No. 24.  All was ready.  The backpack was annoyingly heavy as backpacks are wont to be.  This was it!  Lupe and SPHP set off into the forest on Trail No. 164.

While Bomber Mountain was Lupe’s ultimate peakbagging objective, the goal today was simply to get to Gunboat Lake near Florence Pass.  Lupe had been to Gunboat Lake once before.  A nice grassy ridge overlooking the lake had looked like a great place to set up base camp.  So that was the plan.  SPHP hoped it wasn’t overly ambitious.  The weight of the dang backpack was the leading cause of doubt.  It was 5 miles on Trail No. 164 just to get to the Solitude Trail (No. 038), and maybe another 6 miles on the Solitude Trail to get to Gunboat Lake.

Looper wasn’t thinking about any of that as she trotted N through the forest.  Why, planning things out and carting all that gear around was what she had SPHP for!  Her job was just to sniff, run, play and explore.  The American Dingo had no intention of neglecting her duties.  She gave them her undivided attention.

Trail No. 164 lost a bit of elevation in the first 0.25 mile to a ford at Battle Creek.  The water was low.  Crossing the creek was a trivial matter.

At Battle Creek 0.25 mile N of Bucking Mule trailhead. Photo looks NE.

Easy is good!  Always nice when a potential obstacle turns out not to be one.  Beyond the creek Lupe started gaining elevation.  No. 164 wound NE through forest, occasionally passing near small glades.  About a mile from the trailhead, Lupe reached the S end of Long Park, a vast meadow extending more than 1.5 miles N.  Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) was in sight off to the NE.

Lupe reaches the S end of Long Park. Elk Mountain is on the R. Photo looks NNE.

Trail No. 164 went N through Long Park staying close to the W side near the forest.  After only 0.25 mile, Lupe reached the top of a minor rise. The trail ahead curved W down into a drainage.  The topo map showed No. 164 would lose 150 feet of elevation before crossing Long Park Creek, ultimately regaining all the loss on the way back E to Long Park.

Maybe there was a bridge where No. 164 crossed the creek, but the creek was divided into two streams up here in Long Park.  If both were fordable, Lupe could save the detour W and avoid unnecessary elevation loss.  Loop left the trail continuing straight N.  Both branches of Long Park Creek proved to be simple rock hops.

Fording Long Park Creek. Photo looks ENE.

N of the streams, Lupe picked up Trail No. 164 again.  She came to no further obstacles traveling N through Long Park.  SPHP tried to keep an eye out for Trail No. 120 going SE to Lily Lake, but saw no sign of it.

Long Park from the N. Photo looks S.
Getting close to the N end of Long Park. Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.) (L) has come into view. Elk Mountain is on the R. Photo looks NE.

As Lupe got closer to the N end of Long Park, No. 164 made a jog to the W before turning N again.  Lupe had been gaining elevation slowly.  The pace picked up when the trail entered the forest.  Several people on horseback were coming the opposite direction as the Carolina Dog reached High Point 9810.

Adventures on horseback near High Point 9810! Photo looks W.

Reaching High Point 9810 was significant.  Lupe had gained 680 feet of elevation since fording Battle Creek.  This was the highest point along Trail No. 164.  Lupe had a look around.  The terrain was pretty flat, but she found a rock that looked like it might be the summit.

At the top of High Point 9810, highest point along Trail No. 164. Photo looks N.

In the middle of a flat area, the highest rock at High Point 9810 didn’t have the best view.  The best view was from a boulder near the N edge.

Looking NNE from High Point 9810‘s best viewpoint.

High Point 9810 was 3 miles from the trailhead.  Still 2 miles to go to reach the junction with the Solitude Trail.  Loop and SPHP pressed on.

The Carolina Dog was now about to lose all of the elevation she had gained.  During a steady descent through the forest, Trail No. 164 wound generally NE.  Occasionally there were clearings off in one direction or another.  Looper came to a muddy stream where she took the liberty of helping herself to a drink and cooling off.

Cooling off in a muddy stream. What could be more fun? Photo looks E.

The map showed one interesting highlight more than halfway from High Point 9810 to the junction with the Solitude Trail.  That was Grace Lake.  Trail No. 164 would go right by it.

Grace Lake was pretty!  Lily pads grew near the W shore.  Forested rocky slopes came down to the E shore.  If SPHP wanted a respite from the heavy backpack, Lupe was perfectly content to lay in the shade with a view of the tranquil lake.

Oh, SPHP! Isn’t Grace Lake pretty! Photo looks NE.
Grace Lake. Photo looks E.
Taking a break in the shade by Grace Lake.
Elk Mountain (11,321 ft.) from Grace Lake. Photo looks SE.

With a long way to go, the rest break at Grace Lake wasn’t nearly as long as SPHP would have liked.  Lupe had to move on.  Crossing the outlet stream, Loop was surprised to meet Jefe and Bailey Cleland.

Jefe and Bailey were from Sturgis, South Dakota, so they were from the Black Hills, too!  They were on their way back from a 4 day excursion up to Middle Cloud Peak Lake where Bailey had caught a golden trout.

Jefe was 8 years old, part Labrador, Golden Retriever, and Rottweiler.  The story of how Jefe and Bailey came to be together was both sad and heart-warming.  Bailey had acquired Jefe after a friend had asked him to take care of Jefe for a month as a favor.  The friend never returned for Jefe.  Bailey hadn’t had the heart to take him to the pound.

That was many years ago.  The day Jefe had been abandoned with Bailey turned out to be his luckiest day ever!  Here they were, living the dream together enjoying the Bighorn Mountains wilderness.  They were as happy as Lupe and SPHP!

Lupe with Bailey and Jefe at the Grace Lake outlet stream.

After a nice chat with Bailey and Jefe, Lupe and SPHP wished them well and carried on.  N of Grace Lake, Trail No. 164 headed NE to a minor pass before dropping down into Paint Rock Creek canyon.  A mile from Grace Lake, Lupe reached Solitude Trail (No. 038).

Loop was now 5 miles from the Bucking Mule trailhead where she had started out. The Carolina Dog still wasn’t any higher than she had been there, having lost all the elevation she’d gained on the way to High Point 9810.  There was nothing much to see here.  Without hesitation, Lupe headed E up Paint Rock Creek canyon.

The Solitude Trail immediately began to climb.  The pace wasn’t difficult, though the backpack made it seem that way to SPHP.  The trail stayed up in the forest along the S side of the valley, and never got close to Paint Rock Creek.  The trail soon leveled out, and at one point reached a big clearing from which the creek could be seen.  That didn’t last long.  Lupe was soon right back in the forest.

After more than 0.5 mile on the Solitude Trail, Lupe reaches a big clearing. Paint Rock Creek is barely visible on the L. Photo looks NE.

A mile on the Solitude Trail brought Lupe to a clearing at the top of a small rise.  Filling Paint Rock Creek canyon, beautiful Lake Solitude was dead ahead!

After heading E for a mile on the Solitude Trail, beautiful Lake Solitude came into view. Photo looks E.

Nearly a mile long, Lake Solitude was the largest lake Lupe would come to on this trip.  Upon leaving the clearing W of the lake, the Solitude Trail returned to the forest.  The lake was seldom visible again until Lupe was more than halfway along the S side.  At the start of a large rock slide, a creek plunged down a steep slope S of the trail.

Lupe climbed up on some of the rocks for a better look.

More than halfway along Lake Solitude, a creek came plunging down to cross the trail from the S. This was at the start of a huge rock slide where Lake Solitude was coming into view again. Photo looks NE.
Lupe up on the rocks by the creek. Photo looks SE.

Quite an impressive waterfall was in sight higher up.

By scrambling only a little way up the rocks next to the trail, Lupe got to see this cool waterfall. Photo looks S.

Immediately beyond the creek, the views of Lake Solitude really opened up.  The rock slide had wiped out all the trees long ago.  Crossing the rock slide was no trouble.  The Solitude Trail was a well constructed path.  No rock hopping or trackless boulder fields to transit at all.

So easy, and the views are fantastic! Photo looks NE.
Approaching the E end of Lake Solitude. Photo looks NE.

Near the E end of the lake, the Solitude Trail went right along the shore barely above lake level.  Once Lupe got past the rock slide and huge rock formations, she was ready for another break at a grassy point next to the lake.  Sticking around to enjoy Lake Solitude for a while seemed like a great idea to SPHP, too.

Near the E end of Lake Solitude the trail was right down by the shore. Photo looks NE.
Once beyond all the big rocks, Lupe took a break at this grassy point. Photo looks WNW.
Relaxing by Lake Solitude.

20 pleasant minutes shot by.  Better get going.

E of Lake Solitude it wasn’t entirely clear where the trail went.  Lupe kept toward the R (S) of a large flat region.  Several campsites were tucked back against the pines.  None were occupied.  From the campsites, Loop followed a fairly decent trail E.  It quickly led to a ford of a rushing stream.

E of Lake Solitude, Lupe comes to a ford of a rushing creek. This stream was far larger than any of the others she had come to.

Lupe had reached Paint Rock Creek.  The water was fast and deep enough to make SPHP leery.  The Carolina Dog explored upstream until she came to a place where big rocks made it easier to cross.

Fording Paint Rock Creek.

Once across Paint Rock Creek, Lupe returned to the trail.  After a steep climb, the Carolina Dog arrived at a junction with a better trail.  This had to be the Solitude Trail, didn’t it?  Somewhere E of the lake, Loop must have gotten off the main track.

The better trail went either gradually downhill to the NE or more steeply uphill to the SW.  A brief foray going downhill revealed a footbridge over another big stream by a waterfall.

Looking down toward the Solitude Trail footbridge over the stream from Middle Cloud Peak Lake. Photo looks NE.

Lupe was going the wrong way.  The stream the footbridge went over had to be the major tributary of Paint Rock Creek which comes down from Middle Cloud Peak Lake.  If Looper continued down to it, the trail would take her back to Lake Solitude.  At least there was no question now which way she needed to go.  Lupe and SPHP turned around and headed back up.

The longest, steepest climb of the day now began.  The Solitude Trail turned E going up the N side of Paint Rock Creek canyon.  Lupe was soon way above Paint Rock Creek.  SPHP’s heavy pack meant the American Dingo had plenty of chances to relax and enjoy the scenery.

On the way up Paint Rock Creek canyon. Photo looks SE.
Looking back toward Lake Solitude. Photo looks WNW.
View to the SE.
Whad’ya think, SPHP? Do these flowers make me look fat? …. Not in the least, Loopster. You’re gorgeous!
Indian Paintbrush
Loopster living the dream along the Solitude Trail.

As long as the trail remained steep, the views of Lake Solitude back to the W became ever more spectacular.  Eventually, though, the trail wasn’t as steep.  As it began to level out, Paint Rock Creek was catching up.  First, the stream came into view not terribly far below the Solitude Trail.  A little farther on, Lupe came to another ford.

No doubt there was somewhat less flow way up here.  The water was also spread out much more.  The stream wasn’t nearly as deep or fast.  Lupe had no problem at all crossing Paint Rock Creek this time around.

That’s quite a view, isn’t it? Looking back at Lake Solitude. Photo looks W.
As the Solitude Trail began to level out, Paint Rock Creek could be seen S of the trail. Photo looks ESE.
Loop reaches a 2nd ford of Paint Rock Creek. The water was spread out and shallower here making this crossing a much simpler task.

Now on the S side of Paint Rock Creek, Lupe continued E on the Solitude Trail.  The American Dingo was gaining elevation again, heading for an area she had been to before.  Nearly 2 years ago she had climbed Cloud Peak, the highest mountain in the Bighorn Range.  Another 0.5 mile would bring Lupe to views of Cloud Peak and Paint Rock Creek Falls.

That 0.5 mile took longer than it should have.  Fatigue was setting in.  SPHP was pausing frequently.  Lupe was still making progress, though.  She reached a high point along the trail.  Good news!  Both Cloud Peak (13,167 ft.) and Bomber Mountain (12,840 ft.) were in view.  Getting there!

Reaching this high spot brought good news. Both Cloud Peak (L) and Bomber Mountain (Center) were now in view off in the distance. Photo looks ENE.
Paint Rock Creek and Cloud Peak (R). Photo looks NE with help from the telephoto lens.

A little farther on, Paint Rock Creek Falls came into view.  Lupe could see the grassy ridge slightly above and to the W of the falls where her old tiny house (tent) had been set up as a base camp.

Paint Rock Creek Falls is in sight across the valley beyond Lupe. Her old base camp prior to climbing Cloud Peak in 2016 had been on the slightly higher grassy bench L of the falls. Photo looks N.
Paint Rock Creek Falls with lots of help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNE.

It was fun to see the area again!  The pass leading to Mistymoon Lake wasn’t much farther.  The 2 mile long climb from Lake Solitude would be over when the Carolina Dog got to the pass.  In the meantime, the view of Lupe’s old base camp for her successful ascent of Cloud Peak served as inspiration.

Onward!  Puppy, ho!

Puppy, ho? I’m waiting on you, SPHP! Lupe rests by the Solitude Trail on the way to the pass to Mistymoon Lake. The big ridge ahead is the SW end of Bomber Mountain. Photo looks E.
Looking back toward Paint Rock Creek canyon (Center) before leaving the area. Photo looks W.

Nearing the pass to Mistymoon Lake, Lupe found a snowbank to frolic on.  The delightful experience seemed to give her a burst of new energy.  Even so, SPHP wasn’t tempted to duplicate her chilly romp.  Simply getting over the pass would be good enough.  Almost there!

Lupe absorbs new energy from a snowbank near the pass to Mistymoon Lake. She had been hot earlier in the day. This romp in the snow took care of that. Photo looks SSE.

Suddenly, Lupe was there.  The top of the pass!  Ahead was an easy 0.5 mile long downhill section that would get the Carolina Dog all the way to Mistymoon Lake.  Pausing to look back, Cloud Peak loomed off to the NE.  Much of the route Lupe had taken to the summit was in view.

Would Looper find a similar route up Bomber Mountain tomorrow?  Who knew?  Hopefully.  From Gunboat Lake 2 years ago, it had at least looked feasible.  Either way, the American Dingo was going to find out.  Lupe and SPHP headed for Mistymoon Lake.

Cloud Peak from the Solitude Trail pass N of Mistymoon Lake. Photo looks NE.
The Solitude Trail heads S from the pass N of Mistymoon Lake. The lake is just beyond the hill on the L. Photo looks SW.

Lupe really was re-energized!  She loves this kind of open country, and roamed well ahead of SPHP.  The day had been sunny and warm.  Now that evening was coming on the sky had clouded up, and it was comfortably cool.  Going downhill, even SPHP picked up the pace.  Soon Lupe was on a slope overlooking Mistymoon Lake.

Lupe reaches Mistymoon Lake. The Solitude Trail would take her around the W (R) side of the lake, then all the way back to the E (L) on the far shore. Photo looks S.

The Solitude Trail passes along the W and S sides of Mistymoon Lake.  Near the SW shore Lupe reached a junction with the Mistymoon Trail (No. 063) coming up from the West Tensleep trailhead.  Lupe could see part of Lake Marion to the S.

Looking SE across Mistymoon Lake. The Solitude Trail heads up the draw (R of Center) on the opposite shore on the way to the Fortress Lakes. The big ridge in the distance leads to Mather Peaks (12,400 ft.).
Lupe relaxes near the junction of the Mistymoon and Solitude trails. Part of Lake Marion is in view. Photo looks S.
Cloud Peak (R in the distance) from Mistymoon Lake. Photo looks NE.

Lupe stuck with the Solitude Trail as it headed E along the S shore of Mistymoon Lake.  After a rock hop over the outlet stream, Loop gained 200 feet of elevation on the way up a draw leading to the Fortress Lakes.  This was the last significant elevation rise of the day.

S shore of Mistymoon Lake after crossing the outlet stream. From here the Solitude Trail heads for the gap on the R which leads to the Fortress Lakes. Photo looks ENE.
Looking back at Mistymoon Lake as Lupe departs for the Fortress Lakes. Elk Mountain is on the L. Photo looks WNW.

The Fortress Lakes were a welcome sight.  Lupe was within 0.5 mile of Gunboat Lake!

Approaching the Fortress Lakes near the end of the day. Photo looks E.
On the Solitude Trail by the largest Fortress Lake. Elk Mountain (L) in the distance. Photo looks W.

At last, Lupe was resting on the grassy ridge N of Gunboat Lake!  SPHP wearily assembled her new Marmot tiny house.  The old tiny house was shaped better.  This one was longer than it needed to be, but not wide enough.  It would have to do.  At least it had a rain cover.  Might need it, too!  The sky was overcast, though not threatening at the moment.

Made it! Loop rests on the grassy ridge N of Gunboat Lake. Base camp was about to be established here. Photo looks SSW.
Base camp! Lupe by her brand new Marmot tiny house. One of the smaller Fortress Lakes is in sight. Bomber Mountain in the distance on the L. Photo looks NE.

The tiny house was up!  Base camp was established!  Lupe had a great view of Gunboat Lake, one of the smaller Fortress Lakes, and the huge ridges leading to the possibly unseen summit of Bomber Mountain.  The Solitude Trail could be seen heading NE for Florence Pass.  Tomorrow Lupe would be making that trek!

This was a great spot!  It had been a long day, though.  More than an hour before sunset, Lupe and SPHP crawled into the overly cozy Marmot tiny house to hit the hay.  No sunset to miss, anyway.  A while back the sun had already sunk into a gloomy, murky haze.

It’s nice enough, I suppose. A real marmot would have been better, though! Base camp, Gunboat Lake, Bighorn Mountains of Wyoming 7-14-18

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Next Adventure

      Bomber Mountain, Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming – Part 2: Gunboat Lake to Florence Pass & the Summit (7-15-18)

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