Along the Racing River & the Long Road Home, Canada (9-12-19 thru 9-15-19)

Days 39 – 42 of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

9-12-19, 7:34 AM, 35ºF, S Klondike Hwy just S of Carcross – Pavement at last!  It had taken the G6 nearly an hour to creep a little over 4 miles down stony, steep Montana Mountain Road.  No worries now!  Smooth sailing for the next 2,200+ miles.  Lupe was on her way home.

Yes, there was still some thought of climbing Mount White (5,016 ft.), but Montana Mountain had been a big day.  SPHP really didn’t feel up to it, and a glance over at the American Dingo said she wouldn’t have any objections if it didn’t happen.  So SPHP skipped the turn S off Tagish Road onto Hwy 7, waiting instead to head E on the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner a few miles later.

Cruisin’ ‘n snoozin.

So it was over as far as mountain climbing on this Dingo Vacation.  That didn’t mean Loopster couldn’t do a little sightseeing along the way.  By mid-morning she felt up to her traditional stop at Teslin Lake for a look at the Dawson Peaks.

Dawson Peaks (Center) from Teslin Lake. Photo looks SSE.

It wasn’t until mid-afternoon E of Watson Lake that things started to get more interesting.  First up was a pleasant 30 minute walk on a dirt road leading into a forest that a sign said was part of the Kaska Nation.  Lupe found a squirrel to bark at.  That excitement was followed by a short stop at rapids along the Liard River.

Liard River from the Alaska Highway.
Downstream view.

The squirrel had been just a warm-up.  Far more exciting things were ahead.  Bears and bison!

The largest of 3 black bears Lupe saw.
One of many bison herds.

Lupe barked herself into a complete frazzle!  So she didn’t mind relaxing in the G6 when SPHP stopped in at Liard River Hot Springs for an hour long pleasant soak.  By evening the Carolina Dog had made it all the way to Muncho Lake Provincial Park.

Muncho Lake with Peterson Mountain (L) in the distance. Photo looks SSW.
Muncho Lake. Photo looks N.
Approaching Peterson Mountain (Center). Photo looks SSW.

9-13-19, 6:15 AM – It was barely light out when Lupe hit the road again.  On the way out of Muncho Lake Provincial Park, 2 moose got the day off to a rousing start.  The sun was just coming up when the American Dingo reached the Racing River.  Time to keep a promise!

Just before the bridge, a dirt road left the Alaska Highway on the R.  SPHP pulled in and parked.

The great day has finally arrived, Looper!  Wha’dya say we have that romp we’ve always been meaning to take up the Racing River?  See what we can find?

Loopster was all in!  Bursting with energy after a day of rest, she could hardly wait.  For years now, the Racing River had been a favorite quick stop between Muncho Lake and Stone Mountain Provincial Park.  She’d always spent a little while looking for squirrels in the forest, but had never really gotten to do much exploring.  This was her big chance!

9-13-19, 7:35 AM, 38ºF, Racing River – Chilly, but a gorgeous morning!  A short trot through the forest on the dirt road took Loop past some superb dispersed camping sites, then on to the Racing River itself.  The river was a fabulous glacial blue!  Downstream, the first rays of sunlight were just hitting Peak 4388.

Someday we ought to climb Peak 4388 (L), SPHP! Photo looks NE.

Lupe was heading upstream.  For a little while yet, the river valley in that direction was still in shadow.  Open ground up on the river bank made progress easy as Loop followed the Racing River S.  She soon veered off into a big field, which was as far as she’d ever made it on a quick initial reconnaissance last year.

Starting upstream. Photo looks S.
A quick glance downstream at the spreading sunshine. Peak 4388 (R). Photo looks NNE.
Loop already about as far as she got in 2018. Photo looks SW.

Lupe continued upstream, sometimes exploring away from the river, but often returning to it, since the Racing River was so stunningly beautiful.  As soon as the sun peeped over the mountains, the day started warming up nicely.  Peak 7203, the high point of a long light-colored ridge, was in sight farther up the valley.

Peak 7203 (Center). Photo looks SSW.
A glorious morning! Peak 7203 (R). Photo looks SSW.
Checking out the downstream view again. Peak 4388 (L). Photo looks NE.
The Racing River is so beautiful! Photo looks S.
Of course, the forest is mighty nice, too, fellow squirrel fans!

45 minutes into her journey, the Carolina Dog came to a side channel that had enough flow in it to keep her from continuing along the Racing River’s main course.  Lupe followed the side channel upstream hoping either to find a way across, or that it would rejoin the main channel at some point.

Along the stony, mucky side channel. Photo looks SW.

She wound up sniffing in the forest quite a bit, returning only now and then to the side channel.

Roaming the forest.
When in doubt, look for squirrels!
At least the main course of the Racing River wasn’t too far away. Photo looks S.
Peak 4100. Photo looks WNW.

No luck!  The side channel did not rejoin the main course.  The farther Lupe followed it, the muckier and less appealing prospects for crossing it became.  The American Dingo was forced to spent more and more time in the forest, which was becoming taller and thicker as she pressed on.  This wasn’t too much of a problem, since there were plenty of animal trails to follow.

Muckier than ever, SPHP! Photo looks S.

Just when it looked like the situation was about to improve, a swampy region forced Lupe even farther from the main river.  She soon came to an ancient beaver pond blocking the way forward.

Blocked by a long abandoned beaver pond. Photo looks SW.

The dam was old and decrepit, clearly no beaver had been here in ages.

No beaver in ages? You sure about that, SPHP? This looks mighty fresh to me!

OK, so maybe there was a live beaver around here somewhere, but it couldn’t have been a terribly ambitious one, or its dam and pond would have been in better shape.  At any rate, it looked like Lupe’s Racing River adventure had come to an end.

Follow me, SPHP! Let’s just cross this beaver dam! Looks like its going the right way.

An attempt to cross the beaver dam lead only to what was either the last remains of the side channel, or a swampy pool.  Hardly mattered which.  Lupe had given it her best shot.  She had enjoyed a marvelous, fun trek along the Racing River, but with no way to get back to the main channel, it was time to turn back.

The dam keeps going, SPHP! You left it too soon!

The retreat was about to begin, when SPHP suddenly had a brilliant idea.  Maybe Looper had left the beaver dam too soon?  Perhaps it kept going across the rest of this swamp, too?  Returning to the beaver dam, it turned out it did go farther!  The Carolina Dog continued across it.

Back on the beaver dam to try again.

Hey!  Hey!  The manuever worked!  Lupe got past the swamp in nothing flat.  Back in business!  A short trek through the forest brought Loop to the lovely Racing River again.

Good job, SPHP! Told ya it would work! Photo looks NE.

As Lupe continued upstream, the forest grew denser and extended all the way to the riverbank.  Still animal trails to follow, but with fewer and fewer opportunities to actually see the river, how much farther did it make sense go?

Looper had no concerns at all about that.  She pressed on, having a grand time in the forest.

Happy times sniffing in the forest.

Two hours after leaving the G6, it didn’t look like the situation was about to change anytime soon.  Maybe this was far enough?  As wonderful as the Racing River was, the long road was calling Lupe home.  Happy as she could be, the American Dingo enjoyed a few minutes relaxing by the incredibly blue Racing River.  This was her point of furthest advance.

Such a good idea to come here!
Let’s keep going forever, SPHP! ….. I’d like nothing better, Loop!
By the Racing River.
The downstream view.

Of course, the fun wasn’t over.  Lupe had the whole return trip to enjoy, too.  The American Dingo retraced her forest wanderings back to where she’d reached the river after crossing the beaver dam.

On the way back. Photo looks NE.
Peak 4388 with help from the telephoto lens.
Hey, SPHP! When we get back to the G6, look in the trunk and see if we have a raft! Who knows where this might go?
Looper by the Racing River.

After crossing the beaver dam again, Lupe wanted to explore more of the territory away from the river.  Sure.  Why not?

In the beautiful wilderness.
At a clearing.
A young open forest.
Pom-pom plants.

Toward the end, where the forest was thinner and the ground more open, it was back to the Racing River for the final, easy downstream stroll.  What a perfect day!

Back to the Racing River. Photo looks NE.
“Boulder Beach”.
Looking back. Peak 7203 (straight up from Lupe). Photo looks SSW.
Similar view with help from the telephoto lens.

All too soon, the Alaska Highway bridge was in sight again.  Lupe went all the way to it.  Still 2.5 long days of driving left to get home.  Oh, there would still be stops along the way, but this marvelous trek along the Racing River way up in northern British Columbia was the last really “big” adventure of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation.  Once Lupe crossed this bridge, it would all pass into history.

Approaching the Alaska Highway bridge.
Well, that was fun! What next?

What a grand time it had been!  So many adventures that hadn’t panned out, but plenty of unexpected twists and turns, and great successes, too!

9-13-19, 11:08 AM, 68ºF, at the G6 near the Racing River

Terribly sorry, Loop, but I’ve looked everywhere.  We don’t seem to have a raft with us.

That’s a pity, SPHP!  Such a perfect day for rafting the Racing River, too!

It sure is, Looper!  We’ll have to come back another time, I guess.

Well, next time make sure to bring the raft.  And a map of Peak 4388, too, so we can climb it before we sail away.

I’ll do it Loop!  Some day we’ll stand together on the top of Peak 4388.

Promise, SPHP?

I promise.

By noon, Lupe was at Summit Lake in Stone Mountain Provincial Park with another unfinished project in view.  Beyond the lake stood Mount Saint George (7,402 ft.).  In 2017, Lupe had succeeded in climbing Mount Saint Paul (6,985 ft.) here.  She had nearly made it to the top of Mount Saint George, too, but fog rolled in and a storm had chased her off the mountain.

Great times!  Fun to be here and think about them again.

At Summit Lake. Mount Saint George (L). Photo looks SW.

An hour later, the Carolina Dog was out of the mountains.  Although she could still see the northern Rockies, she wouldn’t be back in them again.  For hundreds of miles S of Fort Nelson, the G6 rolled through a region of big flat-topped ridges separated by deep river valleys.

Looking back at the northern Rockies. Photo looks W.
Unknown peaks with help from the telephoto lens.
Getting farther from the mountains. Photo looks SW.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

Definitely autumn.  The drive was gorgeous!  So many yellow leaves!  Now and then even more brilliant colors, too.

Green, yellow, blue, white.
A scenic drive to be sure!
Alaska Highway W of Fort Nelson.
S of Fort Nelson in the land of big ridges.
Last bear of Lupe’s Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation.
It’s a beautiful world!

It was nearly dark by the time Lupe crossed the Peace River at Taylor.

9-14-19, 5:44 AM, 50ºF – No more messing around!  Lupe hit the road at first light.  Hundreds of miles to go, so not going to be many stops today.  One did come fairly early on, though, shortly after reaching Alberta.  The Carolina Dog wanted to pay a visit to Valhalla Centre, which turns out to be located on Hwy 59, a fact even SPHP had been unaware of before.  Since Valhalla has a fabulous reputation, and was basically along the way, SPHP had no objections to dropping in for a few minutes.

Maybe it was the off-season?  After all, it was already after Labor Day.   A Saturday, too, so maybe Valhalla was simply closed for the weekend?  Whatever the reason, the sky was gloomy and gray when Lupe arrived.  The only thing happening was a bit of dreary drizzle.  Instead of being Epic, Triumphant, & Glorious, Valhalla Centre was distinctly ho-hum.

Not at all what I thought it would be, SPHP.

Me either, Loop.

Not even a lone gleaming ray of sunlight breaking through towering clouds, or a single trumpet blast!  Where are the cheering crowds, rose petal-strewn streets of gold, the shining city and mighty fortress?  I was hoping to partake of the victory feast.

Doesn’t look like they were expecting us Looper.  Maybe we haven’t done enough epic stuff yet?

What are you talking about, SPHP?  We’re just finishing up our Grand Summer of 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!  We made it to the Arctic Circle, climbed countless mighty mountains, braved smoke, wind, rain, and snow.  Isn’t that epic enough?

Oh, you know how it is, Loop.  No matter what one does, someone else has done it faster, stronger, higher, longer.  We might not be anywhere close to having earned a spot in Valhalla.  Maybe we’re just on some waiting list, way down near the bottom?

Oh, pooh!  The least they could have done is have a few Dingo treats around.  Not even a cat is here to welcome us.

Well, maybe we were supposed to fill out an application before showing up.  You know how it is, times change.  The bureaucracy wants all its i’s dotted and t’s crossed these days.

Bureaucracy!  It isn’t Valhalla, if there’s bureaucracy!

Loopster had a point, but she was here now, so she might as well get out and have a quick look around.  The most impressive building in Valhalla Centre was an old-time style white church.

The white church. Most impressive building in Valhalla Centre, Alberta.

SPHP had scarcely let the American Dingo out of the G6 when she pooped on the lawn.

Lupe!  Really?  Did you have to do that?  Here in Valhalla, no less!

As a matter of fact, I did.  When you gotta go, you gotta go!

I suppose.  And here I was thinking that someday we might be moving to Valhalla permanently, but it’s never going to happen, if you’re busy racking up demerits every time we drop by.

Move here?  Now that I’ve actually seen Valhalla, I think I’d rather stay at home in the Black Hills.  Or if you want to move, remember that cute Dingo bunkhouse in Keno City up in the Yukon Territory?  Maybe it’s still for sale?

Maybe.  We’ll worry about that later.  Let’s clean this mess up and get outta here before anyone notices.

A nice break at a little park in Marshall, Saskatchewan was the only other significant stop of the day.

Long after sunset, the G6 finally rested S of Chamberlain beneath a full harvest moon.  An 831 mile day.  Ugh!

9-15-19, 4:33 AM, 50ºF – The harvest moon was pioneering in the W.  Still dark.  Breezy and comfortably cool.  A few minutes to stretch outside, and Lupe was on the road again.  Within minutes, the American Dingo was all riled up!  Oh, it was going to be a glorious day!  Lupe knew that scent anywhere.  This was cattle country!

Loopster couldn’t see the cows she was barking at, but sniffing them was good enough; her enormous enthusiasm for the project was undeterred.  SPHP finally pulled into a rest area along Hwy 6.  This was the same rest area Lupe had first been to exactly a year ago.

Morning in Saskatchewan!  As long as the Carolina Dog was still in Canada, it didn’t feel like her Dingo Vacation was over quite yet.  A tour of the premises, breakfast, then a little while spent picking up trash.  Not nearly as much of it this time around.  Maybe last year’s efforts really had made a difference?

Daybreak in Saskatchewan.
The lovely rest area along Hwy 6.
Exploring the little forest.

9-15-19, 7:45 AM, Saskatchewan, at the rest area along Hwy 6

Come on, Looper!  No more prolonging the inevitable.  Time to say good-bye to Canada!

Lupe hopped into the G6, and settled comfortably on her pink blanket as always.  Still almost an hour’s drive to the Montana border at Regway.  The border wouldn’t be a problem.  Plenty of cows to bark at both before and after.

70ºF, clear and calm in Sidney, Montana, but it was 93ºF by the time Loop made it to Baker.  A quick stop at Reynold’s market for a box of mint chip Eskimo pies to share on the road.  They were gone in a jiffy.

Middle of September!  Why does it have to be so beastly out?  Always seems like we’re coming back to Mordor!

Don’t look at me, SPHP!  You’re the one who was in such a rush to get back!

Eastern Montana was beautiful in an Old West high plains sort of way, but it sure looked and felt parched.  Clouds of grasshoppers and yellow butterflies blew across the highway, swept along on a blazing hot SW breeze.

SE Montana from Hwy 323.

9-15-19, 4:40 PM, Black Hills of South Dakota –  Home again.  94ºF!  The house was even more of an oven than that.  All closed up and sweltering hot!  Must have had a bunch of rain sometime, though.  Instead of dead and brown, the lawn was exceptionally green and long.

A few more weeks, and we’d need a machete to get to the front door!  Guess we’re going to have to get back to chores before they condemn this joint, Looper.

It’s over, isn’t it, SPHP?

Your 2019 Dingo Vacation?  Yeah, I’m afraid so.  Feels like we left Alaska way too soon, doesn’t it?

Lupe didn’t say anything, just sighed and laid down on the carpet staring out the living room window.  Oh, to be back again in the chill mountain air among the pom-poms and wild forests along the banks of the glacial blue Racing River!

Along the Racing River, British Columbia, Canada 9-13-19

Links:

Prior Adventure

Next Dingo Vacation      This Dingo Vacation       Prior Dingo Vacation

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.

Yukon Bound! – Getting Nowhere on the Long Road North (8-8-19 to 8-10-19)

Days 4-6 of Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska!

8-8-19, dawn, Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 W of Jasper – Uh-oh.  Warning!  Dingo triggering event ahead!  Not another soul on the road yet, but SPHP had to brake.  One of those portable temporary stoplights for road construction had just turned red.  Lupe stared in disbelief, her eyes growing big as saucers as she began to realize what she was coming to.  Her hackles rose.  SPHP completely shut the windows on her side of the G6.  Here it comes!

The G6 exploded with noise, as Looper sprang into action.  A full-fledged 5 alarm, frothing at the mouth, barking frenzy was underway!  The American Dingo bounded up and down, back and forth, whacking her head against the windshield, nose smearing against the side window, decibel level as high and shrill as she could possibly maintain it.

Egads!  Turn green for pity sake!  The stoplight remained a stubborn cherry red.  15 feet outside Lupe’s window a magnificent bull elk looked up momentarily.  What was all that racket?  Whatever it was all about, the elk decided it didn’t concern him, and went back to casually munching whatever it was he was munching.

A mile later, sides still heaving, Lupe gasped.

What is the matter with you, SPHP?  It takes a thermonuclear device to get your attention!  An enormous giant deer was frozen in place right there outside the G6!  Easy pickings!  We could have been feasting on fresh, warm, bloody venison right now!  Don’t tell me you didn’t see it!

Oh, I saw it alright, beyond a brown and white blur!  How could I not see it with you about to bust a gut for 10 solid minutes?  I thought that light would never turn green.  We are in a Canadian National Park, Loop.  I’m reasonably certain park officials would frown upon us devouring a freshly killed elk right next to the highway.  Besides, what makes you think it would be that easy?  That giant deer must have outweighed you 50 to 1!

You would have helped me, wouldn’t you, SPHP?

Of course.  I could use a few years free room and board courtesy of the Canadian government.  Shudder to think what might become of you, though, Loop.

Tangle Ridge had been a grand success yesterday, but over 3,800 feet of elevation gain had taken a toll.  The giant deer frenzy must have sucked up whatever energy the Carolina Dog had recovered overnight.  Yukon bound, the day turned into a relaxing road trip.  Serenity returned as Loopster took to snoozing on her pink blankie.

That didn’t mean there couldn’t be a few stops at favorite places.  Still needed to stretch now and then to keep the blood circulating.

Overlander Falls, Mount Robson Provincial Park, British Columbia.
Rearguard Falls, Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, British Columbia
Rearguard Falls on the Fraser River.
Exploring near the Goat River rest stop.

The whole day got spent cruising NW on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16, all of it in British Columbia after crossing the border from Alberta early on.  Shortly before reaching Fort Fraser, a tall plume of black smoke came into view on Lupe’s side of the highway.  Traffic was backed up ahead.

Turned out to be a badly burnt out vehicle.  Spontaneous combustion?  Didn’t seem to be the result of a collision.  By the time Lupe went by, the fire department had already put out the fire.

Sure hope the ole’ G6 doesn’t get any ideas, SPHP!

Yeah, that’ll be us someday, Looper.  We’re bailing, though, at the first sign of trouble.  If you ever sniff smoke, let me know right away.

Like that would help!  I’m not expecting any rapid response miracles out of you, SPHP, after that giant deer episode.

Well, warn me anyway.  I’m likely to be more excitable, if the G6 threatens to burst into flames.

At the Dry Williams Lake rest stop. A year ago forest fires had rained ash on the G6 here.

By late afternoon, Lupe was at Steelhead Park in Houston.  Small, but exquisitely maintained.  Sniffing the fragrant blossoms of all the colorful flowers was pure delight!  Looper paid homage to the Dingo god, too.

Steelhead Park in Houston is always such a lovely break!
By the Steelhead fountain.
So why doesn’t our yard look like this, SPHP? … Something to do with a brown thumb, Loop!
The air sniffs so good here!
Paying respects to the Dingo god.

8-8-19, 5:45 PM, Smithers, British Columbia – The long drive was over for now.  Lupe reached Smithers near the Babine Mountains with sufficient daylight remaining to explore the town.  She visited the Bulkley River, then took a stroll down Main Street looking for the Sausage Factory.  A year ago she had met the former owners, Fred and Teresa Reitsma, at Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River.  They’d been on their way to Dawson City.

Fred and Teresa had invited Lupe to drop by the Sausage Factory, if she ever got to Smithers again.  Now she was here, but too late!  The Sausage Factory was closed for the day.  Too bad.  It looked like a ritzy place!  The product line was of considerable interest to a famished American Dingo, too.  Maybe Loop could return tomorrow?

By the Bulkley River in Smithers, British Columbia.
Outside the Sausage Factory, 1107 Main Street in Smithers, British Columbia.
We’ll go in tomorrow, right, SPHP? … With any luck, Looper!

Hudson Bay Mountain (8,494 ft.) was on the agenda tomorrow, a super prominent (5,000 ft.+) peak W of Smithers.  Lupe wouldn’t be able to get to the true summit, which was a technical climb.  The S summit wasn’t much lower, though, and was supposed to be accessible by a route that continued higher from Crater Lake.

By sunset, Lupe was at the Crater Lake trailhead, high on Hudson Bay Mountain’s S flank.  A gorgeous evening!  Things were looking good!

Hudson Bay Mountain (L) from Astlais Mountain exactly one year earlier on 8-8-18.

8-9-19, 6:58 AM, Hudson Bay Mountain, near the Crater Lake trailhead – The Carolina Dog sniffed aimlessly around the G6.  Fog and mist.  Hardly an inspiring start to the day.  It was what it was.  Reality rules.  No point in this.  Oh, well.

Down in Smithers a short while later, it was just an overcast day.  Only the upper half of Hudson Bay Mountain was shrouded in clouds, but that was the half Lupe had hoped to visit.  Some sort of front must have moved in overnight, nothing too dramatic, but enough to be a spoiler.  Kind of a shame.  Hudson Bay Mountain wasn’t the only candidate on Lupe’s list in this region.

However, didn’t seem to be much sense in waiting around.  The Yukon was still a long way.  Somewhere skies were blue!  Without even waiting for the Sausage Factory to open, Lupe was on her way again.

20 minutes W of Smithers, SPHP drove into rain.  20 minutes W of Seeley Lake, the long drive on Yellowhead Hwy No. 16 finally came to an end.  Lupe was on her way N on Cassiar Hwy No. 37!  The Alaska Highway in Yukon Territory was now only 724 km (450 miles) away.  The rain stopped 40 km later.  At 60 km, a patch of blue sky was seen ahead.

The weather improved as the G6 sped N.  The scenery was gorgeous!  Big lakes, mountains, and rivers, but Lupe seldom got a break from being cooped up.  This was really wild territory, with hardly a trail anywhere as far as SPHP knew.  Daunting.  The only significant stop Lupe made was at the Stikine River, a favorite spot known to harbor squirrels in the forest near the riverbank.

Lunch break at the Bell 1 rest stop 117 km N of Meziadin Junction.
At the Stikine River, looking upstream toward the Cassiar Hwy bridge.
Looking downstream. The Grand Canyon of the Stikine starts not far from here.

8-9-19, 7:15 PM, Beaver Dam rest stop along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Only 75 km left to the Alaska Highway, but enough was enough.  After a bite to eat, having spent practically the entire day on the road, Lupe finally got to do some exploring.  N of the rest stop a dirt road curved slowly NW into the forest.  Maybe it would lead to the beaver dam?  None was in sight at the rest stop.

A gentle 0.33 mile uphill stroll led to a bit of a drop into a little valley.  No beaver dam.  So far, SPHP had found only mosquitoes.  Lupe was doing better.  A couple of squirrels had come to her attention, and now to her enormous satisfaction, she came across a succession of mud puddles covering the entire road.  The American Dingo plopped herself right down in each one, clearly enjoying lapping up murky mineral water, and that oh, so wild and natural feeling one gets from being absolutely filthy.

Upon getting back to the Cassiar Hwy, SPHP picked as much trash out of the ditches as could be carried back to the rest stop for proper disposal.

We’re doing something wrong, Loop, when a load of trash, and a dingy Dingo are the highlight of the day!

8-10-19, 35ºF at the forest fire pond along Cassiar Hwy No. 37 –  Chilly out, but at least the sky was blue!  By the forest fire pond Lupe squinted into the brilliant glare of the morning sun.  Going to be a great day!  Another one on the road again, though.  Lupe had already made a few tracks.  This pond was what, a mere 30 km from the Yukon?

In the early morning sunlight by the forest fire pond.

8:08 AM, 39ºF, Yukon border, Cassiar Hwy No. 37 – Two days of pent-up energy could be contained no longer.  The were-puppy attacked as soon as SPHP stepped out of the G6.  Leaping, growling, nipping, tugging, tearing – all the usual were-puppy tactics.

You know, were-puppy, you are at least part of the reason I’m always in tatters!

Oh, you love it, SPHP!  It’s all in good fun!

For some of us.  I notice you don’t ever come away turning yellow and green and purple and blue.

Sorry ’bout that.  Now and then I get carried away.

Apology accepted, provided you let go of my pants without ripping them any further.  How about a romp in the woods along the Yukon border?  Might be a squirrel out there somewhere!

A romp and a squirrel sounded good.  After visiting the Yukon border sign, Lupe dashed off into the forest.  A squirrel did materialize, making SPHP look like a genius.

Made it! At the Yukon Territory border!

Burning off some steam early on was a good thing.  2 km N of the Yukon border Cassiar Hwy No. 37 came to an end.  SPHP turned W (L) onto the Alaska Highway.  Hours slipped by, the only significant stop being a now traditional one at Teslin Lake.

Teslin Lake – a traditional Lupe stop along the Alaska Highway.
Regional map posted at Teslin Lake.
By Teslin Lake. Dawson Peaks (R). Photo looks SE with help from the telephoto lens.

By early afternoon, Lupe had left the Alaska Highway at Jake’s Corner, and was on her way back into British Columbia heading S on Hwy 7 to Atlin.  A lunch stop was made on a bluff overlooking the N end of Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (6,913 ft.).

Atlin Lake and Mount Minto (R) from a bluff Lupe discovered in 2018. Photo looks S.

Atlin Lake is long and narrow.  It was still quite a way to the town of Atlin on its E shore.  Shortly before Loopster got there, SPHP spotted a couple of float planes on Como Lake, a small lake W of Hwy 7.  Might be fun to go take a look.  The American Dingo was all for it!

Checking out the float planes at Como Lake.
Oh, this does look like fun! We could go soaring over the mountains!

None of the stops today had been terribly long.  By mid-afternoon, Lupe was back in Atlin again!  A year ago, she’d had a terrific time climbing Monarch Mountain SE of town.

At the Atlin marina, with Monarch Mountain in the background. Photo looks SE.

Being back in Atlin was exciting!  Lupe went to the waterfront to see the gorgeous lake and the Tarahne, a century old excursion boat which had once upon a time brought tourists to Atlin.

Oh, it’s wonderful to be back at fabulous Atlin Lake again! And with big plans, too!
By the Tarahne, which decades ago had brought tourists to Atlin.

Off to the SW was the reason Lupe was here.  Across Atlin Lake near the far W shore was a large island.  Teresa Island was dominated by a single massive mountain which occupied virtually the entire island.  In 2018, Lupe had seen Birch Mountain (6,765 ft.), not only from Atlin, but also from Monarch Mountain (4,728 ft.).

Birch Mountain, the whole reason Lupe had returned to Atlin. Photo looks SW.

For the past year, SPHP couldn’t help thinking that Birch Mountain had looked climbable from the N.  Why, Lupe could do that!  From the top there ought to be a fantastic view of the Llewellyn Glacier, which the Carolina Dog had glimpsed on the far horizon from Monarch Mountain.  Birch Mountain had a peculiarity, too, which added to its overall appeal.  With 1,393 meters (4,570 ft.) of prominence, Birch Mountain was the 2nd most prominent lake island in the entire world!

Until Lupe had run across Birch Mountain, it had never occurred to SPHP that she might be capable of summiting the 2nd best of any class of mountain in the whole world, yet here was an opportunity to do so in this remote NW corner of British Columbia, an area Lupe had been close to on her summer Dingo Vacations these past 3 years.  The whole notion was so enticing!

Beyond the usual weather considerations, 2 significant problems needed to be addressed.  First, how to get over to Teresa Island?  Second, how to get above tree line?  The lower portions of the island looked densely forested.  Was there a trail?  If not, was the forest open enough to simply amble up through it without too much difficulty?  If Looper could get above tree line, the upper regions of the mountain appeared to be quite manageable.  SPHP was confident she could reach the summit.

Time to get some answers!  Across the street from the waterfront was a hotel.  SPHP went in to see what might be learned, while Lupe waited in the G6.  Hotel personnel directed SPHP to the Atlin Historical Society a few blocks away.  The Historical Society turned out to be a museum.  Inside, a couple of old ladies were busy answering tourist’s questions.

So what did you find out, SPHP?

Nothing yet, Loop.  Didn’t even talk to them.  Might be wrong, but I doubt they know anything at all about getting to Teresa Island or climbing Birch Mountain in there.

What now, then?

I think there was a sign when we came into town about kayak rentals.  Not going to take on Atlin Lake in a kayak, but maybe they rent motor boats, too?  Let’s go have a look.

Sure enough, there was a sign.  Glacier View Cabins, canoe and kayak rentals, 12 km on Warm Bay Road.

Glacier View Cabins seemed worth checking out.

Driving S on Warm Bay Road, SPHP saw no sign of Glacier View Cabins.  After going an extra 2 miles, SPHP turned around.  On the way back N, there it was!  A sign was near a steep driveway on the E side of the road, away from Atlin Lake.  SPHP drove up only as far as the first couple of cabins before parking the G6.  Lupe hopped out.

Nobody seemed to be around.  Lupe and SPHP trudged farther up the steep driveway.  At the upper end, a home sat perched on a slope with a fabulous view of Atlin Lake and the Llewellyn Glacier.  SPHP rang the doorbell.  No answer.  Knocking and ringing again didn’t help.  On the verge of giving up, Lupe and SPHP were still standing next to the door, when suddenly a man appeared carrying a basket of laundry.

Peter Sidler and his wife, Edith, who wasn’t home at the moment, own and operate Glacier View Cabins.  Originally from Switzerland, Peter had been a resident of Atlin for the past 37 years.  Although busy, he invited Lupe and SPHP into his home.

Peter had canoes and kayaks available for rent, but said Atlin Lake was too big and dangerous to cross over to Teresa Island in such craft.  He also had a motor boat that would have worked, but it was rented out for the next 2 days.  The following 2 days it was committed to participation in a search and rescue class.

Peter did share some good information.  Over the years, he had climbed Birch Mountain multiple times.  There were no trails on Teresa Island, and Peter was skeptical of SPHP’s proposed route from the N.  He’d never tried that, but expected the willows would make it tough to get through the forest.

The best route was from the SE, where a major rock slide gets down to within 200 meters of the shore.  Staying on the rocks made the climb much easier.  Peter had once gone up the NW side of the mountain, but that was more difficult.  Yes, Birch Mountain could be climbed in a single day, but it would be a long, hard one.

Although Peter couldn’t get Lupe to Teresa Island in the next few days, he knew who might be able to help.  No regular water taxi services were available in Atlin, but Archie Wiggins had tremendous experience in the area and ran charter services with his large boat.  Gary Hill might also have a suitable boat available.  A call to Mr. Wiggins went unanswered.  Probably out on the water with clients.

Armed with phone numbers and instructions on how to find both Wiggins and Hill, Lupe and SPHP departed after thanking Peter for all his help.  Returning to Atlin, Lupe dropped by Wiggins’ house, but no one was there.  At the Hill household, Gary’s wife, Bobbi, was out in the yard.  She was friendly and summoned Gary.  Again no luck.  Gary’s boat was rented out, and wouldn’t be available for a whole week.  He had no other options for Lupe.

That left Archie Wiggins, Lupe’s last and best bet.  After dinner, Loop and SPHP returned to his house in Atlin.  A vehicle was there now, but knocking on the door and walking around back produced no response.  Hmm.  Suddenly the front door opened.  Barefoot and in an old T-shirt, Archie Wiggins strode out of the house.  Peter and Bobbi had both called Archie leaving messages on Lupe’s behalf.  So what did SPHP want?

Passage across Atlin Lake both to and from Teresa Island.

Wiggins and his boat were available tomorrow, but his response was surprising.

Don’t really know much about Birch Mountain.  We don’t get much call for it.  People seldom want to hike Birch.  Usually they helicopter over there.  Most people I deal with want to go either to Atlin Mountain (6,722 ft.) where there’s a trail, or Cathedral Mountain (6,965 ft.).  Cathedral is a gorgeous mountain, a premier destination.

Not familiar with Cathedral.  What does it cost to go there?  Really came for Birch.  Are you willing to take us to Teresa Island?

Are you alone?  Just you and the dog?

Yes.

For drop off and pickup, it’s $1,000 to Cathedral.  Really a wonderful trip, and a fabulous peak.  To Birch, $175.  That’s just to the NE shore.  More if you want to be dropped off somewhere else.

$175?

Do you have inReach?

I suppose maybe we ought to, but no.  I don’t.

We get a lot of intrepid individuals up here, who’ve done some amazing things.  My customers know what they’re doing and come prepared.  I’m not going to be responsible for anyone who’s going to put themselves in a situation.

With that, without waiting for a response, Archie Wiggins turned and went back into his house.  The door banged shut behind him.

That went well.

Dingo feathers!   I totally blew it, Looper!  The moment he quoted $175 for Teresa Island, I should have asked him what time we could start in the morning.  I only hesitated because I was wondering if I ought to ask him about going to the SE side of the island to the rock slide Peter mentioned.  Could have done that once we were already on board crossing the lake.  He would have been thrilled to charge us more, if we didn’t like the looks of the NE shore.

He still might have asked you about inReach.

Maybe, but maybe not, too.  We might well have been on our way!  It would have worked out.  Wiggins knows what he’s doing, and he was our last and best chance.  Can’t believe I let it all fall apart like that.

Too late now.  Why don’t we take the helicopter, SPHP?  That would be amazing!

That’s right!  He did say most people helicopter to Birch.

Discovery Helicopters was close to where Hwy 7 reached Atlin.  Right away SPHP ran into Matt, a young, professional helicopter pilot.

Birch Mountain?  No problem.  Alone?  That’s too bad.  Price is the same for up to 4 people.  We fly you up to an upper ridge.  Still a nice hike to the summit from there.  Spectacular views!  Just tell us what time you want us to meet you again for pickup back at the ridge.  Too late in the day to go now, but we can get you there as early as you like in the morning.

Price?  Well, 10 minutes flight time one way.  Two round trip flights.  That’s 40 minutes.  Gotta figure some time for loading and unloading.  $1,000 will do it.  If someone else wants to fly beyond Birch about the same time, we could save you something on that, but don’t think we have anyone lined up at the moment.  Drop in again in the morning, if you want to go.  We’ll see if that’s changed, and work out the details.  We’ll get Lupe up there!

SPHP thanked Matt and returned to the G6.

Are we really going in a helicopter, SPHP?

It’s a great deal with 4 paying passengers.  $250.00 each, Canadian.  Lucky American Dingoes get a nice discount at the current exchange rate.  How are those royalties on your blog doing?  Rolling in the dough by now, I hope?

Business has been, umm, steady, SPHP.

Still nothing, aye?

Zippo.

Any book advances or movie rights in play?

The agents just mutter something about “extremely limited market”.  By the way, what does “infinitesimal” mean?

In this context, Loopster, it means “Ain’t gonna happen.”  How about those endorsements?  Anything happening there?

I haven’t really endorsed anything except playing in the mountains and T-bone steaks.

No ad revenue, either, I don’t suppose.

There might be, eventually, if we ever come up with an ad.

I see.  Well, doubt I can rustle up 3 additional paying passengers in the next few hours.  Atlin is a small place.  Probably doesn’t make sense to hang out at the marina tomorrow trying to buy a random ride from some boater to Teresa Island, either, since we’ll actually need to get back, too.

No helicopter ride?

At $250, yes.  Absolutely.  What an experience!  Not at $1,000.  We can get more bang for our buck at another mountain.  To tell you the truth, I’m sort of used to free, other than our normal travel expenses.

And that was that.  Lupe’s Birch Mountain dreams had gone up in smoke.  The Carolina Dog left Atlin heading back N on Hwy 7.  Sundown found her at a little rest stop along the E shore of Atlin Lake.  The lake was almost mirror smooth.  The evening so calm, and a little sad.

Evening at Atlin Lake.

6 days into what was meant to be Lupe’s grandest Dingo Vacation of 2019, Tangle Ridge had been her only major peakbagging success.  Failure at Hudson Bay Mountain.  Failure at Birch.  She’d traveled the long road N to the Yukon, and wasn’t far from it now, yet it seemed the Carolina Dog was getting nowhere fast.

SPHP might be concerned, but Lupe wasn’t.  Tomorrow was another day.

Birch Mountain from the E shore of Atlin Lake, British Columbia, Canada 8-10-19

Links:

Next Adventure                         Prior Adventure

Monarch Mountain near Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-12-18)

The Crocus Trail to Pine Creek Falls, Atlin, British Columbia, Canada (8-11-18)

Glacier View Cabins (Peter Sidler)

Discovery Helicopters

Archie Wiggins (Atlin Lake boat charters)   PH: 250-651-7542

Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2019 Dingo Vacation to the Yukon & Alaska Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.