Lake Louise & the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail (7-21-13)

Lupe arrived in Canada for the very first time on the morning of July 20, 2013.  By afternoon she was in Banff in the beautiful Canadian Rockies.  Lupe and SPHP toured Banff the rest of the day and all morning on the 21st, but by afternoon it was time to leave the crowds behind.  Lupe and SPHP left Banff heading W in the G6 on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1.

SPHP intended to take Lupe to Sunshine Meadows, which isn’t far from Banff.  From Sunshine Meadows, Lupe and SPHP could take the trail up over Healy Pass to explore the Egypt Lake area.  SPHP left Hwy 1 intending to head up to Sunshine Meadows, but almost immediately found out that the road was closed for construction.  Heavy rains in June, 2013 had flooded and damaged the road.

Lupe and SPHP wound up driving on to Lake Louise, arriving a bit after 3:00 PM.  It was a bad time to arrive.  All the parking lots were full and cars were parked alongside the road for a great distance.  Lupe is a lucky dingo though, and SPHP soon found a parking place in the upper parking lot near the lake.

Lake Louise was gorgeous and busy.   Most of the crowds were at the NE end of the lake near the Chateau Lake Louise and the boathouse where they rent out canoes.  There was still time for Lupe and SPHP to make the round trip hike up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail beyond Lake Louise and back.  Lupe and SPHP set off on the Lakeshore trail.  The Lakeshore trail goes a little over 2 km right along the NW shore of Lake Louise heading SW with little or no elevation gain.

Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada
Lupe first reached Lake Louise near the boathouse where they rent out canoes.
Lupe first reached Lake Louise near the boathouse where they rent out canoes.
Lupe near the start of the Lakeshore Trail at Lake Louise 7-21-13
Lupe at Lake Louise in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada 7-21-13
Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise.
Mount Victoria (11,375 ft.) from Lake Louise.  The Plain of Six Glaciers trail would take Lupe up to the base of Mount Victoria just to the right of the lowest big patch of snow.
Lupe checks out the grounds at the Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise was originally a Canadian Pacific Railroad Hotel.
Lupe checks out the grounds at the Chateau Lake Louise. Like the Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise was originally a Canadian Pacific Railroad hotel.

Lupe continued beyond Lake Louise on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail, which soon starts climbing as it continues up the valley towards Mt. Victoria.  A few km on the Plain of Six Glaciers trail brought Lupe to the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse.  Lupe just isn’t that big on tea or coffee, although she probably would have gone for some cookies or chocolate cake if SPHP had mentioned that the teahouse had those delicacies as well.

A look back at Chateau Lake Louise from along the Lakeshore Trail.
A look back at Chateau Lake Louise from along the Lakeshore trail.
The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the way to the teahouse.
The Plain of Six Glaciers trail on the way to the teahouse.

From the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse, it was another 1.3 km to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail at the base of Mt. Victoria.  Lupe and SPHP continued on to the very end of the trail.

Lupe at the start of the last 1.3 km section of trail going onward to the base of Mount Victoria from near the teahouse.
Lupe at the start of the last 1.3 km section of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail going to the base of Mount Victoria from near the teahouse.
Mt. Lefroy (R) and The Mitre (center) from the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail. Philip Stanley Abbot fell to his death from near the top of Mount Lefroy on 8-3-1896. News of the tragedy inspired great interest in mountain climbing in the Canadian Rockies.
Mt. Lefroy (11,293 ft.) (R) and The Mitre (9,836 ft.) (Center) from the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Philip Stanley Abbot fell to his death from near the top of Mount Lefroy on 8-3-1896 on his third attempt to be the first to climb Lefroy (he had tried and failed twice before in 1895). News of the tragedy inspired great interest in mountain climbing in the Canadian Rockies.  American Dingoes, however, prefer to avoid falling off precipices.  Lupe showed no interest in climbing Mt. Lefroy.
This glacier-filled canyon between Mt. Victoria (R) and Mt. Lefroy (L) is known as The Death Trap.
This glacier-filled canyon between Mt. Victoria (R) and Mt. Lefroy (L) is known as The Death Trap.
The Death Trap 7-21-13
The Death Trap as seen from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  Abbot hut is supposed to be at the upper end of The Death Trap, but SPHP couldn’t see it.
Intrepid Carolina Dog Lupe near The Death Trap 7-21-13
Intrepid Carolina Dog Lupe near The Death Trap 7-21-13
Lake Louise from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.
Lake Louise from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.

SPHP never did figure out what six glaciers the trail was named after.  The only really big glacier in view was the Victoria Glacier coming down through The Death Trap.  Presumably some of the glaciers have melted away over the years.  Lupe and SPHP still had a great time going up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  The trail is in very good condition and even relatively small children can manage it.

Although the trail had been very crowded when Lupe and SPHP had left Chateau Lake Louise earlier in the afternoon, Lupe and SPHP were the very last to leave from the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail.  The trail was now deserted.

Returning to Chateau Lake Louise.
Returning to Chateau Lake Louise.

Mount Victoria from Lake Louise 7-21-13On the way back to Lake Louise, not long after passing the teahouse, Lupe and SPHP saw a wolverine ahead on the trail.  At first the wolverine seemed rather curious and stared at Lupe.  Lupe stared back intently at the wolverine.  After pondering Lupe for a few moments, the wolverine concluded it had better not tangle with an American Dingo.  It ran away out of sight down the trail.  The wolverine had a rather peculiar gait, a kind of loping along.

It turned out the wolverine had not left the trail.  Instead, it had stopped to see if Lupe was still coming.  Lupe and SPHP caught up with the wolverine several more times before the wolverine decided to quit the trail and go into the brush.  That was the last Lupe saw of the wolverine.  Lupe was rather fortunate to see a wild wolverine at all.  Wolverines are quite rare.

The wolverine wasn’t the only wildlife Lupe saw.  Once back at Lake Louise, when Lupe was almost to the parking lot, she saw a porcupine.  Despite wolverines’ reputation for ferocity, it turns out porcupines are much braver than wolverines.  The porcupine was not the least bit afraid of American Dingoes.   The porcupine took its sweet time sauntering across the trail before Lupe could pass.Lake Louise 7-21-13Lupe and SPHP returned to Lake Louise a year later on July 24, 2014 to make the hike up to the end of the Plain of Six Glaciers trail again.  Click here for photos and commentary from that trip!

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Banff, Alberta, Canada (7-20-13)

After Lupe’s success at reaching a viewpoint over Sky Pilot Lake in the Beartooth Mountains of southern Montana and subsequent somewhat exciting retreat during a thunderstorm on 7-17-13, SPHP thought it was about time for Lupe to move on to the next part of Lupe’s 2013 Dingo Vacation.  It was time for Lupe to see a new country – beautiful Canada!  So the plan on 7-18-13 was to get everything organized, packed up, and head out for Canada.

It didn’t happen.  Mick from the motorhome parked near Lupe’s “tiny house” (tent) came over in the morning.  He was very friendly and chatty.  He had lots of interesting and amusing tales from his wild partying days years ago in the music industry in England.  As the day wore on, Mick offered free beer.  The first beer pretty much put an end to any ambitions SPHP had for the day.  After the 15.5 hour adventure to Sky Pilot Lake the previous day, both Lupe and SPHP were perfectly content to spend the entire day lounging around at the beautiful campsite on the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River hanging out with Mick.

While Mick clearly missed the good old days back in England, he was pretty high on America, too.  He told about how his wife had put $17,000 into some tech stock after the stock market crash in late 2008 or early 2009.  Mick had been a bit nervous about it, but that stock was now worth over $400,000.  After that, he no longer questions his wife’s investment decisions.  She is free to invest as she pleases.  Mick was quite a character and regaled SPHP with one tale after another like this.  After a few beers, it all became somewhat fuzzy, but very amusing nonetheless.

The next morning found Lupe and SPHP still camped at the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River.  Both Lupe and SPHP felt way more energetic after the very relaxing prior day spent with Mick.  After a couple of hours spent cleaning, writing and packing up; it was time to bid a fond farewell to Pilot and Index Peaks and the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone River.  Mick was up and bid Lupe and SPHP bon voyage.  Lupe and SPHP then hopped in the G6 and headed out over spectacular Beartooth Pass.

The rest of 7-19-13 was spent on a very pleasant drive heading N across central Montana.  Lupe had loads of chances to bark enthusiastically at cows, horses and haystacks along the way.  After various stops along the way, evening came.  Lupe and SPHP spent the night in the G6 at a rest stop along I-15 N of Dutton, Montana.

At 8:00 AM on 7-20-13, Lupe entered Canada for the first time.  SPHP had all the proper documentation along for Lupe to enter Canada, but the border agent didn’t even ask for any of it.  At Lethbridge, Lupe and SPHP went for a walk in a park along the Oldman River.  Then it was back into the G6 and on to the fabulous Canadian Rockies!

Lupe reached Banff a little after mid-afternoon.  Banff is a very busy tourist town on the Bow River in the Canadian Rockies.  Normally SPHP doesn’t like busy places, but Banff is an exception – Banff is great!  The scenery is gorgeous and there are lots of things to see and do in Banff, although many are not for American Dingoes.  SPHP was thrilled to be back in Banff again.  Lupe was here for the very first time.  It was time for a walk!

Lupe and SPHP found the cemetery near the Bow River where Bill Peyto is buried.  Naturally, Lupe couldn’t go in, so she continued on to cross a nice, new (since SPHP was last there) footbridge across the Bow River.  There were lots of people around and plenty of other doggies to sniff with.  Lupe followed a trail downstream along the Bow River until coming to a place where she had to turn back, because dingoes weren’t allowed any further.

Lupe along the Bow River just downstream of Banff, Canada. The new footbridge across the river is visible upstream.
Lupe along the Bow River just downstream of Banff, Canada. The new footbridge across the river is visible upstream.
Cascade Mountain from near the footbridge over the Bow River in Banff, Canada.
Cascade Mountain (9,836 ft.) from near the footbridge over the Bow River in Banff, Canada.
Banff Avenue bridge over the Bow River, Banff, Canada
Banff Avenue bridge over the Bow River, Banff, Canada

Lupe and SPHP took various walks along the Bow River and in downtown Banff.  Lupe was rather bewildered and overwhelmed at first by the throngs of tourists, but soon learned to enjoy crossing the street as part of the crowd whenever the light changed.  She also discovered there were plenty of opportunities for brief encounters with all kinds of other dogs.  On the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Rockies, Lupe saw one of Bill Peyto’s original rustic cabins.

Lupe at one of Bill Peyto's cabins on the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Rockies. Bill Peyto was a famous outfitter and guide based in Banff in the late 1800's.
Lupe at one of Bill Peyto’s cabins on the grounds of the Whyte Museum of the Rockies. Bill Peyto was a famous outfitter and guide based in Banff in the late 1800’s.

In the evening, SPHP ate at a café with some outdoor tables.  Lupe very much enjoyed sharing SPHP’s buffalo burger and milkshake.  Lupe and SPHP then went for another walk up and down both sides of Banff Avenue (main street).  This was Lupe’s first ever Pretty Puppy Parade, which has become a tradition every evening Lupe is in Banff ever since.  By now Lupe was getting used to the crowds and even seemed to be enjoying herself.  She stared curiously and hopefully into open shop doors, sniffed with other doggies, and allowed friendly tourists to pet her.

Cascade Mountain from Banff Park.
Cascade Mountain from Banff Park.
Looking N across Banff Avenue bridge towards downtown and Cascade Mountain.
Looking N across Banff Avenue bridge towards downtown and Cascade Mountain.

The next day, Lupe and SPHP woke up as the sky was just starting to get light.  Lupe found $10 Canadian on the sidewalk near the Bow River.  Lupe and SPHP drove down to Bow River Falls.  While Lupe was there, a raft full of people was launching a short distance down the river from the falls.  Someone dressed in Scottish garb was playing bagpipes from a hill they floated past shortly after launch.

Lupe at Bow River Falls, Banff 7-21-13
Lupe at Bow River Falls, Banff 7-21-13
Bow River Falls is located within walking distance downstream of Banff.
Bow River Falls is located within walking distance downstream of Banff.
Bagpiper on the Bow River.
Bagpiper along the Bow River.
Bow River downstream of Bow River Falls 7-21-13
Bow River downstream of Bow River Falls 7-21-13

Lupe and SPHP went up to the famous Banff Springs Hotel for a look around.  The Banff Springs Hotel was first opened in 1888, and is one of Canada’s grand railway hotels.  It is built in Scottish Baronial style and is often referred to as a castle.  Although Dingoes can stay at the Banff Springs Hotel, Lupe didn’t get to stay there.  SPHP’s spouse, unlike Mick’s spouse, has never invested $17,000 and turned it into $400,000, although SPHP would have been eternally grateful.

Looking E from a veranda at the Banff Springs Hotel.
Looking E from a veranda at the Banff Springs Hotel.
Cascade Mountain from Banff Springs Hotel.
Cascade Mountain from Banff Springs Hotel.
A section of the Banff Springs Hotel.
A section of the Banff Springs Hotel.

Banff Springs Hotel 7-21-13

Lupe was pretty certain the Banff Springs Hotel would meet Carolina Dog standards, but cheapskate SPHP didn't book her a room.
Lupe was pretty certain the Banff Springs Hotel would meet Carolina Dog standards, but cheapskate SPHP didn’t book her a room.
This view of the Banff Springs Hotel is from Surprise Point on the opposite side of the Bow River.
This view of the Banff Springs Hotel is from Surprise Point on the opposite side of the Bow River.

Banff Springs Hotel 7-21-13SPHP started thinking that maybe Lupe could ride the Sulphur Mountain gondola.  Sulphur Mountain has a wonderful commanding view of Banff and the Bow River Valley.  The gondola ride to the top is a very popular attraction.  SPHP drove over there, but it was a madhouse.  The giant parking lot was full and busloads of more people were arriving all the time.  When SPHP found out it was $35.00 per ticket to ride the gondola, SPHP didn’t even bother to ask if Lupe could go.   SPHP seemed to be the only cheapskate in Canada, though.  People were lined up in droves to pay it.

Instead, SPHP took Lupe to see the flower gardens at the Parks Administration Building located just S of the Bow River from downtown at the end of Banff Avenue.  Lupe had a dull time of it, since signs there said dingoes weren’t allowed on the grounds.  SPHP snapped a few photos and then it was already time for lunch.  After lunch, Lupe and SPHP took another stroll downtown.

Parks Administration Building, Banff, Canada. There are extensive flower gardens on the grounds.
Parks Administration Building, Banff, Canada. There are extensive flower gardens on the grounds.
Oh, nice... no thrilling gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain and now no dingoes allowed to even sniff the flowers... you sure know how to show a dingo a good time, SPHP!
Oh, nice… no thrilling gondola ride up Sulphur Mountain and now no dingoes allowed to even sniff the flowers… you sure know how to show a dingo a good time, SPHP!

Flowers at Parks Administration Building grounds, Banff, Canada 7-21-13Parks Administration Building grounds in Banff, Canada 7-21-13Although it was great to be in Banff, SPHP was ready to be done with crowds.  There were many more things for people to do in Banff, but not that many for American Dingoes and Carolina Dogs.  SPHP was satisfied that Lupe had had a chance to experience Banff.  It had been 4 days now since the big adventure to Sky Pilot Lake in the Beartooths.  It was time to get out of town and go explore some mountain trails!  Lupe was ready for some action!  So, early on the afternoon of 7-21-13, Lupe and SPHP left beautiful Banff heading W in the G6 on Trans-Canada Hwy No. 1 looking for adventure.

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Want more Lupe adventures?  Choose from Lupe’s 2013 Beartooths & Canadian Rockies Adventure IndexDingo Vacations Adventure Index or Master Adventure Index.  Or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures.