Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 272 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Iron Creek Horse Camp to Badger Hole (4-1-21)

8:29 AM, 32ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Iron Creek Horse Camp trailhead

SPHP!  Quiet!  Don’t move!  A mountain lion!

A lion!  Here at the trailhead?  Where?

SPHP glanced around.  Nothing.

Hah!  Made you look!  April Fools!

Oh, you’re a riot, silly Dingo!  C’mon, it’s a bit of a trek.  If we want to have time to climb a couple of side peaks along the way, we better get moving.

A mountain Dingo, but no mountain lions, at the Iron Creek Horse Camp trailhead. Photo looks N.

Destined for Badger Hole, Lupe left the Iron Creek Horse Camp trailhead heading S on Centennial Trail No. 89.  At least temporarily, spring had sprung!  Chilly this morning, but supposed to get as warm as a day in mid-May later on.  The trail still had a few icy stretches as Lupe followed it up a gentle valley.  Soon she was passing scenic granite formations while approaching a minor pass.

Exciting stuff! We’re hunting badgers today! This trail leads to their hole! Photo looks S.
An icy stretch as the trail winds into the forest. Photo looks SW.
Passing granite formations. Photo looks SSE.

Beyond the pass was another gentle valley.  A side trail soon appeared on the L.  This was the spur to Centennial Trail No. 89’s official Iron Creek trailhead, which was different from the unofficial trailhead near the horse camp.  Lupe went on by the spur, sticking with the main trail.  Within a couple of minutes, the main trail turned R.  A sign said it was 7 miles to Legion Lake.

Junction with the official Iron Creek trailhead spur. (Sign on L.) Lupe kept going straight (R). Photo looks SE.
At the Legion Lake sign. Photo looks SW.

Heading SW through the forest over a little rise, the trail quickly brought Looper to Needles Hwy No. 87.  Across the highway, a closed gate over a side road could be seen a few hundred feet away.  When Lupe got to the gate, Centennial Trail No. 89 took off to the L.

Crossing Needles Hwy No. 87. Photo looks SW.
L of the gate where the trail leaves the side road. Photo looks SE.

From the gate, Centennial Trail No. 89 went up a to minor ridge offering the first somewhat distant view of the day, several forested hills.  Lupe crossed a dirt road that ran along the ridgeline, and started down into the next valley.  Passing big granite formations on the L, she arrived at “Badger Gate”, a couple of granite nodes the trail went between.

First distant views from the minor ridge. Photo looks SSE.
At Badger Gate. Photo looks S.

From Badger Gate, the trail continued down to a tiny creek, a tributary of Grace Coolidge Creek.  Off to the L (SE), a big field occupied the valley floor, but the trail didn’t enter it.  Crossing a few boards that bridged the tiny creek, Lupe had a view of the field as Centennial Trail No. 89 wound along a hillside staying in or near the trees.

Crossing the tiny tributary of Grace Coolidge Creek. Photo looks W.

The trail went up a slight rise before descending into a narrower part of the valley right on down to Coolidge Creek itself.  The stream was frozen over.  Centennial Trail No. 89 headed up the shady valley, never straying far from Coolidge Creek and crossing it twice.

Heading down into the upper Coolidge Creek valley. Photo looks SW.
By Coolidge Creek. Photo looks SW.
In the shady Coolidge Creek valley. Photo looks SW.

After the second Coolidge Creek crossing, Centennial Trail No. 89 began climbing out of the valley.  Lupe came to a region of exposed granite on the way to a broad, forested ridge.  Climbing more gradually, an old road led to a sunny open area which appeared to have been logged off some years ago.

Approaching the exposed granite. Photo looks NW.
On the broad forested ridge. Photo looks SW.
Entering the open region. Photo looks WSW.

The open region was huge!  Despite a few dips, the road went on and on, still gaining elevation.  Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) was in view off to the NW.  Smaller hills could be seen in almost every direction.

Didn’t expect to see so much open territory! Photo looks SSW.
Black Elk Peak (R of Center). Photo looks NW.
Looking back to the NE.

After a sunny mile or so, Centennial Trail No. 89 re-entered the forest.  The trees had been thinned here, too.  Big granite outcroppings were visible nearby.  The trail dipped going around the W side of an especially tall formation.  12 minutes later, Lupe made a discovery.

In the open forest. Photo looks N.
Heading into the dip. Photo looks SW.

SPHP!  Look!  A monster!

Oh, yeah right, Miss April Fools!

Turned out she was right!  This time the American Dingo wasn’t fooling!  The Claw was lurking just ahead.  Peak 5880 was visible beyond it.  Lupe would have to go right past The Claw, if she wanted to get there.

Peak 5880 (Center). The Claw (R). Photo looks S.

Fortunately, The Claw was acting none too lively.  It appeared to have been lurking here for so long that it had forgotten why.  Slipping past it was no great feat at all.  Soon the Carolina Dog was closing in on Peak 5880.  Centennial Trail No. 89 was heading right for it.

By The Claw, which seemed comatose.
Peakbagging time coming up! Peak 5880 (Center). Photo looks S.

When the trail got to the N side of Peak 5880, it curved SE along its base.  Peak 5880 was a chance to do a little peakbagging.  In fact, Lupe had climbed it once before only a couple of years ago.  The American Dingo left the trail where it got closest to a saddle 0.2 mile SE of the summit.

Snow, slash, and various chunks of wood left by loggers to contend with, but overall, getting up to the saddle wasn’t all that hard.  From here, Lupe enjoyed a distant view of Northeast Cicero Peak (6,240 ft.).

Off-trail, approaching the saddle. Photo looks S.
At the saddle. Northeast Cicero Peak (Center). Photo looks SW.

The climb along the SE ridge to the summit was much harder, partly since it was steeper, but mainly due to copious quantities of deadfall.  The ridge finally leveled out, though, and Lupe came to a platform of rock overlooking a last slash-filled gap leading to the summit.

Almost there! Peak 5880 summit (L). Black Elk Peak (far R). Photo looks NW.

11:58 AM, 58ºF, Peak 5880 – Lupe stood on one of the highest rocks, then it was time for a break.  Peak 5880’s cramped summit region had enough room to allow the Carolina Dog to relax practically right next to the true summit rock, but not to move around much.

Peak 5880 summit. Photo looks NNW.

Is it lunch time yet, SPHP?

Practically on the dot, Loopster!  You hungry, thirsty?

Thirsty?  Not really.  Been eating snow.  Not that hungry yet, either, but if you happen to have a chocolate coconut bar in that pack, it would go down pretty easy right about now!

You don’t say!  As always, I presume.  Well, I’ll see what I can do.

The chocolate coconut bar supply took a hit, and minor shrinkage of the Taste of the Wild supply occurred, too.  SPHP slowly munched an apple.  Off to the E were a couple of ridges Lupe had climbed once upon a time, Peak 5647 and Peak 5733, but that was about it for views due to the big pines that were providing all the shade.

Peak 5647 (L) and Peak 5733 (Center). Photo looks E.

Loop and SPHP lollygagged up by the true summit well after the apple no longer existed, but there was a limit to how long that could go on.

Not a bad spot, but never really thought we would ever be back here, did you, Looper?

Oh, it doesn’t bother me coming back to the same places again, SPHP!  A new experience every time!  You never know what might be different.

True enough, but that’s not what I meant.  This just seems like an out of the way place.  If it weren’t for Centennial Trail No. 89 bringing us right past Peak 5880, we probably would have kept busy with other stuff, and never been back.

I’m glad we’ve returned, SPHP, but maybe we ought to have a look around, since this might be it for Peak 5880 the way you talk!

Good idea!  We’re still miles from Badger Hole, so let’s do that, then head back to the trail.

Don’t listen to SPHP! If you enjoy climbing mountains, Peak 5880 is worth the side trip! Photo looks S.
Out on the short, rocky N ridge. Photo looks NE.
Summit from the start of the N ridge. Photo looks S.

After venturing out onto the steep, rocky N ridge, Lupe had to go back over the summit and downclimb a bit to explore a larger, flatter area to the S.  Not much to be seen since this region was densely forested, but Loop did get a glimpse of Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) to the S.  Off to the SW, Custer Mountain (6,089 ft.) and Peak 6040 were visible beyond Stockade Lake.

Mount Coolidge (Center). Photo looks S.
Stockade Lake is still frozen! Photo looks SW.
Custer Mountain (L) and Peak 6040 (Center) beyond Stockade Lake. Photo looks SW with help from the telephoto lens.

Peak 5880 had been a fun break.  Having seen what there was to see, Loopster returned to Centennial Trail No. 89 by essentially the same route she had come up.  Leaving Peak 5880 behind, the trail curved NE beginning to lose elevation.  A turn to the R (E) following a different dirt road led down to a low spot in a wide valley.

Loop was now in the upper reaches of the Little Squaw Creek valley, but so far up it that there was no sign of a creek.  Centennial Trail No. 89 went around the N side of a fenced area, turned S, and began to climb.  Lupe soon came to a pass with massive granite walls on the L (E).

Going around the fence down in the Little Squaw Creek valley. Photo looks E.
Approaching the next pass. Photo looks SSE.

The next valley, also dry, was part of the Galena Creek drainage system.  Huge granite formations E of the trail eventually disappeared as Lupe kept going.  The valley widened, and became quite grassy and flat.

Upper reaches of the Galena Creek drainage. Dry as a bone here! Photo looks S.

10 minutes from the pass, the trail divided at a well-signed junction.  The Carolina Dog had a choice.  Take the trail veering off to the L (SE), which was the shortest route to Badger Hole, or stay farther W continuing S down the valley?

Sign for the short route. Only 1.5 miles to Badger Hole this way! Photo looks SE.
The long way. 2.5 miles to Badger Hole. Photo looks S.

Any preference, SPHP?  I’d sort of like to catch a badger as soon as possible!

Oh, doesn’t that sound like fun?  A badger – Dingo fight!  However, the short route goes partway up Peak 5733, and I’d like to save that for later on the way back.  Take the long route, please.

Siding with the badger, are you, SPHP?  Giving it a reprieve?  Fine!  Just dandy!  Only temporary, I assure you.  As you wish, the long route it is!

Lupe continued straight.  The valley went on and on, soon narrowing and winding.  The Carolina Dog journeyed through both grasslands and open forest.  A micro-tributary of Galena Creek eventually materialized.  In shady regions, sometimes there was still some slushy ice or snow.

Continuing down the valley. Photo looks SE.

The American Dingo must have been nearly 1.5 miles from the last pass she’d gone over when traffic could be heard ahead.  Centennial Trail No. 89 went by a house as it reached Hwy 16A.

Near the S end of the valley. Hwy 16A just ahead. Photo looks SE.
At the house next to Hwy 16A. Centennial Trail No. 89 on the L. Photo looks NW.

Unlike the Needles Hwy much earlier in the day, Hwy 16A was busy.  Loop had to wait for a chance to cross safely.  Galena Creek was down in the ditch on the other side.  A couple of boards provided a bridge, but the creek was so small even SPHP could have just stepped across if they hadn’t been there.

Safely over on the S side of Hwy 16A. Photo looks WSW.
Crossing Galena Creek. Photo looks SE.

Once over Galena Creek, Centennial Trail No. 89 began a steady climb through a forested area.  Lupe gained 200+ feet of elevation before the trail leveled out again at a field.  Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) was directly ahead, not looking all that much higher.

Regaining elevation S of Hwy 16A. Photo looks SW.
Mount Coolidge (Center) from the field. Photo looks SSW.

Mount Coolidge looked so close, that SPHP considered taking it on.  Only a passing thought.  Appearances were deceiving.  The actual summit was higher than what could be seen from here.  Furthermore, it turned out that there was a deep ravine between this field and the mountain.  Upon reaching the edge of the ravine, Centennial Trail No. 89 curved SE, then E, following the upper rim of the ravine lower.

Losing all the elevation she had just regained and more, Lupe ended up down in Sheep Draw where a square stand of aspens stood enclosed within a fence.  An off-trail shortcut could have been taken directly to Badger Hole from here, but Loopster stuck with the trail as it turned SE again heading up to yet another pass.

In Sheep Draw. Photo looks E.

The last pass was a minor one.  Lupe was soon over it and down in a low spot in the next valley.  Centennial Trail No. 89 turned SW starting to climb again, but Lupe didn’t need to that way.  She had reached the spur trail to the Badger Hole trailhead, now only 0.5 mile away.

Start of the spur trail to the Badger Hole trailhead. Photo looks NE.
Closing in on Badger Hole. Photo looks ENE.

3:05 PM, 62ºF, Centennial Trail No. 89, Badger Hole trailhead

Lupe sniffed in vain.

Unbelievable, SPHP!  Take the long way you said!  You deliberately gave the badger time to escape!  What I don’t understand is how the badger managed to take even its hole with it!  Not a whiff of badger or hole left!

Sorry, Loopster!  Don’t ask me!  How am I supposed to know where the badger or its hole went?  You see the sign!  No doubt about it, this is the right place!

Well, looks like that cowardly badger is forfeiting! This is Dingo Hole trailhead from now on! Photo looks S.

Wait a minute, SPHP!  What does that other sign over by the hill say?

Badger Clark Memorial, Open 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM, Memorial Day to Labor Day.

At Badger Hole. Photo looks W.

Oh, so that’s the badger’s game, is it?  Holed up in a castle on the hill until Memorial Day, aye?

Apparently so!  See, it didn’t make any difference which route we took as far as the badger is concerned.  Busy hibernating or something until summer.

Well, phooey!  Tricky, scaredy-cat badger!  Doesn’t dare come out until I’m safely away on my summer Dingo Vacations!

Must be one brainy badger, Loopster!  Nothing we can do about it.  C’mon, Legion Lake isn’t far from here.  Let’s go have a chocolate coconut bar break there.

Nothing to take one’s mind off a slippery badger like a chocolate coconut bar!  Lupe headed NW on the road to Legion Lake, and was soon there.  The bar was devoured along the shore near the spillway.  This time the chocolate coconut bar functioned as a mere appetizer.  A healthy helping of Taste of the Wild got crunched up, too.

The chocolate coconut bar met the same fate here meant for the badger! Delicious! Legion Lake. Photo looks NW.

Strolling along the NE shore of the lake, Mount Coolidge was once again in sight.  Lupe came to a sandy beach.  Amazingly, even though most of Legion Lake was still covered with ice, a couple of crazy Canadians were out there swimming!

Mount Coolidge (Center) from Legion Lake. Photo looks SW.
Show-offs!

In no big rush, Loop and SPHP ambled on past the Legion Lake Lodge.  Closed now, but that would change.  Tourist season was due to kick off with Custer State Park’s free weekend the week before Memorial Day.

Near the Legion Lake Lodge. Photo looks SE.

3:32 PM, 60ºF, Legion Lake in Custer State Park – Getting sort of late in the day with such a long way back to the Iron Creek Horse Camp.  Better head out!  Crossing Hwy 16A, Lupe and SPHP startled a herd of deer grazing in the Legion Lake campground.

The campground was closed, but Loopster trotted through it.  No sign, but way at the far NW end was the start of the E side of the loop that went back to the trail junction where SPHP had advised the American Dingo to take the long route to Badger Hole.

Leaving the campground. Photo looks NNW.

SPHP wasn’t sure if this was even officially part of Centennial Trail No. 89.  No brown “89” wands here.  Unnumbered blue diamonds on the trees marked the route.  The trail started up a little valley, but was soon climbing toward a ridgeline on the R (NE).

Easily the steepest route of the day, except for Lupe’s side jaunt up Peak 5880.  SPHP stopped frequently to gasp for air.  Reaching the ridgeline did nothing to slow the rate of ascent as the trail began curving W.  Mount Coolidge (6,023 ft.) looked a lot higher from here.

Mount Coolidge. Photo looks SSW.

After gaining hundreds of feet of elevation, the trail began to level out as it headed SW traversing a steep slope.  The trail was just beginning to turn NW when Lupe reached its high point by a number of big rocks with tree-broken views.

Traversing the steep slope. Photo looks SW.
At the trail’s high point. Photo looks SW.

Lupe had been here had been nearly 9 years ago, sometime back in 2012.  Directly ahead, the trail started down again at a good clip.  SPHP couldn’t remember exactly where it went, maybe even up to a higher spot farther on, but one way or another it would get the Carolina Dog back to the same Centennial Trail junction she had been at earlier.

Decision time, Looper!  Want to stick with the trail, or climb Peak 5733?

If we have time, let’s climb!

Heading up a steep, rocky S ridge, SPHP was a little afraid that it might become impassable.  It didn’t.  Lupe reached a level spot where a short break was taken.  Consulting the topo map, it appeared the summit was still nearly 0.33 mile due N and 200 feet higher.

Climbing the S ridge. Photo looks N.
At the level spot where a short break was taken. Photo looks SE.

Actually farther than that the way the ridge went.  Lupe followed the ridge as it now turned NW.  She was soon approaching a significant high point that she really didn’t need to climb.  Traversing a steep, thickly forested slope, the Carolina Dog managed to skirt E of the high point to reach a saddle SW of the summit.

This saddle featured a couple of dramatic knobs of granite.  Lupe got up on one of them just for fun.

At the saddle SW of Peak 5733’s summit. Photo looks N.

Deadfall and slash!  Wasn’t that far from the saddle to the summit, but it was a typical slow trek through the wreckage.  Lupe paused for views once or twice on the way.  When she finally got to the top of Peak 5733, she leapt onto the true summit rock to claim her peakbagging success, then it was time for a break.

Black Elk Peak (L of Center), as seen on the way up Peak 5733. Photo looks NNW.
Success! At the true summit of Peak 5733. Photo looks WNW.
Break time.

5:14 PM, 55ºF, Peak 5733 – Breezy up here, for the first time today.  The last chocolate coconut bar and apple met their fates.  Quiet, serene.  This was another minor unnamed peak that SPHP had never expected Lupe to return to, yet here she was.

Looper and SPHP sat together for a while, taking in the big view off to the NW.  Omnipresent Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), plus Cathedral Spires (6,840 ft.), Little Devils Tower (6,960 ft.), Sylvan Hill (7,000 ft.) and Peak 6735, too.

To the W, Peak 5880, where the American Dingo had been only hours ago, and somewhere between here and there, Centennial Trail No. 89.

Sylvan Hill (L) and Black Elk Peak (R). Photo looks NW.
Little Devils Tower (far L), Cathedral Spires (L), Black Elk Peak (R of Center) and Peak 6735 (R). Photo looks NNW with help from the telephoto lens.
Peak 5880 (L) and Sylvan Hill (R). Photo looks NW.

Definitely going to get dark before the Carolina Dog could make it back to the Iron Creek Horse Camp.  No worries!  Reach Centennial Trail No. 89 again, and Loop would speed along having a blast on this beautiful early April evening.  Something to look forward to!

20 minutes after arriving, it was good-bye to Peak 5733.  Lupe headed down the slash-ridden NW slope.  As soon as she was below the worst of it, SPHP picked up the pace.

Ahead, sunlight streamed through open forest illuminating a broad, steady ramp lower.  Lovely!  Getting to the Little Squaw Creek valley where the American Dingo could pick up Centennial Trail No. 89 again was going to be a snap!  (End 8:17 PM, 39ºF)

Descending Peak 5733, Black Hills of South Dakota, 4-1-21

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                     Prior Black Hills Expedition

Next Trail Section North

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 249 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Big Pine to Iron Creek Horse Camp (4-20-19)

Next Trail Section South

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 295 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Badger Hole to French Creek & Beyond to Peak 5120 (2-7-22)

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 250 – Peak 5647, Peak 5733 & Peak 5880 (5-4-19)

Want more Lupe adventures?  Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 249 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Big Pine to Iron Creek Horse Camp (4-20-19)

Start – 7:47 AM, 61°F, Big Pine trailhead of Centennial Trail No. 89 near Horsethief Lake, Hwy 244

Hard to believe more than 4 months had already flown by since Lupe had last been on Centennial Trail No. 89!  Even harder to believe that the last time she’d done this particular section of it was more than 7 years ago.  Lupe hadn’t even been 15 months old back on Expedition No. 10.  Not likely she remembered any of it now.  Going from the Big Pine trailhead to the Iron Creek Horse Camp was going to seem like a whole brand new experience.

Today we’ll be heading S from Big Pine through the Black Elk Wilderness to the Iron Creek Horse Camp. Almost 9 miles one way!

In any event, Loopster was all fired up!  As soon as SPHP was ready, she crossed Hwy 244 and hit the trail.  Centennial Trail No. 89 wound WSW through typical pine forest.  Most of the time Lupe was gaining elevation gradually.  She passed by some rock formations fairly early on.

Rock formations not far from the Big Pine trailhead.

After 0.75 mile, Lupe came to a junction with Willow Creek Rushmore Trail No. 5.  A map of the local trail system was here, plus a registration station for the Black Elk Wilderness.  SPHP registered for Lupe, and she continued on.

At the junction with Trail No. 5. Centennial Trail No. 89 continues on past the map.
Map at the junction with Trail No. 5.

Leaving the junction, Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed steadily.  0.25 mile brought Lupe to a sign at the edge of the Black Elk Wilderness.  Beyond this sign, the trail made a couple of switchbacks up to a minor pass.  On both sides of a wide path, the forest was tightly packed with dog hair pines, so SPHP brilliantly named this pass Dog Hair Pass.

Dog Hair Pass was the first significant high point of the day.  Lupe had gained 261 feet of elevation since leaving the Big Pine trailhead.

At the start of the Black Elk Wilderness.
Here we are at Dog Hair Pass!

From Dog Hair Pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 gradually descended S into a remote valley.  Dead trees had fallen across the trail in some places.  At one point, a tiny stream trickled right on the trail.  Lupe began getting glimpses of big rock formations, especially toward the E.  The Carolina Dog eventually came to a larger stream.  This was Pine Creek.

Some deadfall here due to an old pine bark beetle infestation, but it’s not too bad.
A tiny stream is flowing right over this stretch of trail.
Lots of big rock formations around, but most are fairly well hidden by the forest.
This must be Pine Creek!
Pine Creek.

After crossing Pine Creek, Centennial Trail No. 89 followed the stream E.  Lupe saw more rock formations.  She crossed a little tributary stream.  The trail then curved N.  A wall of rock appeared on the other side of Pine Creek shortly before Lupe came to a larger tributary.

A rock formation with a hollow spot underneath.
Crossing a small tributary of Pine Creek.
This wall of rock appeared shortly before Loop reached a larger tributary.

This larger tributary was as far downstream as Centennial Trail No. 89 was going to follow Pine Creek, and the first significant low point.  Lupe had lost nearly 240 feet of elevation since leaving Dog Hair Pass.  Her net elevation gain to this point was only about 21 feet.  As the crow flies, she hadn’t actually gotten very far from the trailhead yet, either, less than a mile, due to the circuitous route the trail had taken.

Lupe crossed the larger tributary of Pine Creek.  Centennial Trail No. 89 started climbing again following the tributary upstream.

At the first significant low point in the Pine Creek valley. Centennial Trail No. 89 follows this tributary upstream from here.

Staying N of the creek, the trail climbed E at a fairly good clip for a little way.  The creek then turned S, and Centennial Trail No. 89 did, too.  The valley leveled out for 0.25 mile or more.  Lupe crossed the tributary of Pine Creek twice along in here.  After the second crossing, the trail immediately left the stream behind and climbed E up a long slope to the next minor pass.

This second pass was also a significant high point along the trail, and was also heavily forested with a bunch of dog hair pines.  However, SPHP didn’t think naming every pass Dog Hair Pass No. 1, No. 2, etc. was such a good idea.  Quite cleverly, with hardly any mental effort at all, SPHP came up with Short Pine Pass as a suitable designation.  No doubt Lupe was impressed, but she didn’t actually say so.

Lupe had gained 280 feet of elevation on the way from the low point at Pine Creek up to Short Pine Pass, bringing her net elevation gain to 301 feet.

At the first of two crossings of the tributary after leaving Pine Creek.
Looking back after leaving the tributary behind.
Short Pine Pass.

From Short Pine Pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 wound down into a ravine where the tops of trees killed by pine bark beetles had been snapped off in high winds.  This did open up the views a bit.  Lupe could see larger rock formations off to the SE now.

Bigger rock formations SE of Short Pines Pass.

The American Dingo was coming to an area she had been to many times before, a short section of Centennial Trail No. 89 that is shared with Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14.

At the junction with Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14.
Turn L at this junction with Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 to stay on Centennial Trail No. 89.

Upon reaching Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14, Lupe turned L (NE).  Two minutes on the shared trail brought her to where the trails divided again.  To the L, Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 went straight to Horsethief Lake and Hwy 244, a major shortcut back to the Big Pine trailhead.

Going to Horsethief Lake would have completed a nice loop, but that wasn’t the plan.  Loopster went R, sticking with Centennial Trail No. 89.  Almost immediately after making the turn, she came to a small stream.  This little stream was the 2nd significant low point.  Lupe was about 190 feet lower here than at Short Pines Pass, reducing her net elevation gain to 111 feet.

At the next trail junction, only a couple of minutes from the first one. Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14 goes off to the L. Centennial Trail No. 89 bends around to the R.
Go around this bend to the R to stick with Centennial Trail No. 89!
Centennial Trail No. 89 crosses this tiny creek right after leaving Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14.

The trail now began climbing steadily again.  Not too long after crossing the tiny creek, Lupe passed by a very tall granite spire.  Beyond the spire, the trail led SE up a long valley.  Near the upper end, Lupe came to a few mild switchbacks before reaching a 3rd significant high point.  Since the trees were bigger here, but not enormous, SPHP designated this spot Medium Pines Pass.

Near the tall granite spire.
Welcome to Medium Pines Pass, at 5,500 feet the highest point on Centennial Trail No. 89 between Big Pine and the Iron Creek Horse Camp!

Medium Pines Pass is the highest point along Centennial Trail No. 89 between Big Pine and the Iron Creek Horse Camp.  Lupe was now at 5,500 feet, a gain of 310 feet from the little creek near the last junction with Horsethief Lake Tail No. 14, and 421 feet higher than the Big Pine trailhead where she’d started out.

Beyond Medium Pines Pass, the trail continued SE on a steady descent into the next valley.  Large rock formations capped hills to the E.  Lupe came to a big granite boulder right next to the trail.  She got up onto it for a better look.

SE of Medium Pines Pass.
On the granite boulder.
Granite formations capping hills E of the trail.

Past the boulder, a long set of stairs wound deeper into the valley.  Below the stairs, the trail continued lower, but not as steeply.  Looper came to another tiny stream, which she promptly plopped herself into to cool off.  After crossing this stream, the trail followed it lower for a while before unexpectedly curving away to the W, climbing perhaps 150 feet to yet another pass.

Rock formations visible E of the trail before it curved away to Deadfall Pass.

Deadfall Pass was the 4th high point Lupe had come to, but didn’t seem as significant as the others.  The trail was soon descending again, but at an easy pace interspersed with flat stretches.  Lupe had been going SW on the way over Deadfall Pass, but beyond it the trail gradually curved around to the SE again while winding along forested slopes.  More tiny streams appeared, so small they were almost certainly seasonal.

Eventually the trail turned NE, and dropped down to a larger stream, which was often heard, but seldom seen.  Impressive granite formations were in this area, especially to the N.  Lupe came to a small pond.

Crossing Deadfall Pass.
Another tiny stream. The trail crossed several along in here.
A nice flat section.
Near the little pond.
This pond might be seasonal, but seemed deep enough to be around most of the time.

A short distance past the pond, the trail bent around to the S.  It wasn’t much farther to another intersection.  A sign indicated Lupe had reached a spur trail leading to Mount Rushmore.

The trail on the L is a spur coming in from Mount Rushmore. Lupe kept going straight on the R past the mossy log.

Ignoring the spur to Mount Rushmore, Lupe kept heading S.  She was still going down the same valley Centennial Trail No. 89 had been in for a while now.  The stream in this valley had grown in size, but was still small enough to easily step or leap over as the trail crossed it twice.

Crossing the stream S of the spur to Mount Rushmore.

The second crossing came just before Lupe reached a confluence with another even bigger creek.  Since this confluence wasn’t too far off the trail, Lupe went over to have a look at it.  She was now at 4,860 feet, the lowest point she would come to today, having lost 640 feet since leaving Medium Pines Pass.  The Carolina Dog had made it to Grizzly Bear Creek.

At the confluence of the stream Lupe had been following with Grizzly Bear Creek.

Returning to Centennial Trail No. 89, Lupe continued S.  100 feet brought her to a ford.  This ford was no more than a couple of feet deep, but far too wide to leap over.  Not anxious to get wet feet, SPHP looked for a drier way across.  A few boulders 40 feet upstream did the trick.

More than 4 hours had shot by since Lupe left the Big Pine trailhead.  Grizzly Bear Creek was a beautiful spot to take a little break.  Once over the stream, Lupe and SPHP relaxed for a bit on a big rock.

Grizzly Bear Creek.
Don’t want to get your paws wet crossing Grizzly Bear Creek? Cross it here! This is a nice rock to rest on, too, once you’re over.

The rest break next to Grizzly Bear Creek was pleasant, but couldn’t be allowed to drag on too long.  The Carolina Dog was soon on her way S again.  Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed gradually at first, but before long Grizzly Bear Creek veered off to the W.  Lupe found herself going up a side canyon on one of the most aggressive climbs of the day.

By the time Lupe reached Rushmore Pass, she was 320 feet higher than the low point she had just left at Grizzly Bear Creek.  Up at the pass, the trail briefly curved E and entered a 40 foot wide clearing.

The clearing at Rushmore Pass.

Not much could be seen from the clearing, but a hill NE of it provided a view.  Temporarily leaving the trail, Lupe scrambled up to some rocks from which Mount Rushmore (5,725 ft.) was in sight.

Mount Rushmore (R). Photo looks N.
Another look with help from the telephoto lens.
Only Washington and Lincoln are visible from this angle. Photo looks N.

From Rushmore Pass, Centennial Trail No. 89 continued S, once again steadily losing elevation.  After a while, Loopster came to a big granite formation on the L (E) partly surrounded by a swamp.  SPHP had little recollection of what Lupe had seen so far today from back when she had been here 7 years ago, but this rock did seem vaguely familiar.  The area seemed more overgrown than what SPHP recalled, but was probably the same spot.

This rock deserved a name!  How about Forgotten Rock?  Sounded better than Dimly Remembered Rock.

Forgotten Rock! Don’t worry, there isn’t going to be a test. You can forget it, too!

The trail went on and on.  From Forgotten Rock, Lupe followed a small stream uphill, crossing the stream twice before it disappeared.  A spindly forest grew at another minor pass where there was a small sunny spot.  SPHP dubbed this one Nowhere Pass.  Nowhere Pass turned out to be hardly a pass at all.  A little farther on, Lupe reached South Deadfall Pass, which was slightly higher.

Another descent, but a minor one.  The trail curved to the R and crossed “Muck Creek”.  Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed again.  At last Lupe came to a place she had been to less than 2.5 years ago, an intersection with Centennial Bypass Trail No. 89B.  Lupe had accidentally come this way from Iron Mountain (5,446 ft.) on Expedition No. 184 while looking for Peak 5688.

Nowhere Pass.
South Deadfall Pass.
Ever feel like you’ve been in a rut? Lupe S of South Deadfall Pass.
Here we are at lovely “Muck Creek”!
Oh, I remember this spot! SPHP missed a turn and I wound up here on Expedition No. 184. Not going this way today!

Bypassing Centennial Bypass Trail No. 89B, a short trek brought Loop to yet another pass.  Bypass Pass seemed like a silly, but appropriate name.  How many of these goofy passes were there going to be anyway?  Even SPHP was starting to lose track of them all.

A splendid fungus on a dead tree.
Bypass Pass.

Centennial Trail No. 89 continued S from Bypass Pass on a long gentle decline.  Having been here so recently, SPHP knew exactly where Lupe was going to come out – Confusion Point!

Confusion Point was another trail intersection, but an unmarked one.  Way back on Expedition No. 10, SPHP hadn’t known which way to go.  Now it was understood that Confusion Point was one end of another short section of shared trail, this time with Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7.  When Lupe got to Confusion Point, SPHP had her turn L (E) toward a huge granite spire.

Loop at Confusion Point.

The shared section of trail began heading E toward the spire.  It quickly curved SE revealing a wide passage between massive walls of granite.  Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 went through that passage, but Centennial Trail No. 89 split off to the R, resuming its course S.  A sign was present, but not terribly conspicuous.  It would have been easy to miss this turn, if Lupe hadn’t been here before.

Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 goes straight on through the wide passage ahead. Centennial Trail No. 89 splits off to the R just beyond Lupe.
Centennial Trail No. 89 right after it leaves Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7.
The not so conspicuous sign.

Lupe had made tremendous progress!  Only 1.25 miles left to the Iron Creek Horse Camp!

Leaving Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 behind, Lupe climbed 50 or 60 feet in a fairly short distance.  At the high point, newly nicknamed Confusion Pass, there was a rock formation immediately to the R of Centennial Trail No. 89.  Loop got up onto it.  She had a good view of some of the big granite formations she had just gone by, and could see Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.), the highest mountain in South Dakota, too.

Rock formations in the Confusion Pass region.
There’s Black Elk Peak (Center)! Photo looks NW.

Another descent began from Confusion Pass.  Lupe came to a low area where a stream wound through a grassy field.  Out in the middle sat a big rock formation.  This was it!  This was the rock formation that SPHP had been thinking of earlier at Forgotten Rock.  No wonder Forgotten Rock hadn’t looked quite the same!  It wasn’t.

Forgotten Rock could keep its name.  SPHP truly hadn’t remembered it at all.  The rock Lupe was at now could be Memory Rock, since there had at least been some recollection of it.  Yeah, that made sense!

There’s Memory Rock! Guess a few brain cells are still functioning.
At Memory Rock less than a mile from the Iron Creek Horse Camp. Forgotten Rock is considerably farther N.

Centennial Trail No. 89 climbed again.  Off to the NW were glimpses of higher mountains, but no clear views.  Making short forays off-trail, Lupe had better luck seeing some lesser, but still interesting formations much closer by.

Rugged territory by Black Hills standards to the NW.
Closer pinnacles.
Same view with help from the telephoto lens.

The trail dropped again, but Lupe didn’t have an awful lot farther to go.  She came to another good-sized stream.  Iron Creek!  Possible to rock hop it today, but just barely.

We’ve finally made it to Iron Creek!
Looking back after crossing Iron Creek.

The trail made one more 75 foot climb before descending to a road.  Lupe had made it all the way through the Black Elk Wilderness!  She passed a brand new Black Elk Wilderness sign on the way down.  More maps were posted at the road.

Good job! We’ve made it all the way through the Black Elk Wilderness! Spiffy new sign, aye?
Map display by the side of the road.
Black Elk Wilderness map.

After a quick look at the maps, Lupe and SPHP followed the road down to a bridge over Iron Creek.  On the other side of the bridge, Lupe came to the Iron Creek Horse Camp.  This early in the season, the horse camp was closed.  Lupe and SPHP took a stroll around the loop anyway.  No people, and sadly for Lupe, no horses.

At the far end of the loop, Lupe passed the start of Norbeck Trail No. 3, most of which goes through the SW part of the Black Elk Wilderness.  The highlight of the whole horse camp tour was a bright orange bird which flitted by, came to rest in a tree for 20 seconds, then flitted away.  SPHP had never seen a bird like it before.

Success! Lupe reaches the Iron Creek Horse Camp.
Iron Creek Horse Camp would be even better with horses!
This bright orange bird was striking, but Lupe would have been more impressed with a bright orange squirrel.

And that was it.  8 hours after leaving the Big Pine trailhead, Lupe set out from Iron Creek Horse Camp, this time heading N on Centennial Trail No. 89.  Already 4:00 PM!  SPHP was certain the American Dingo wouldn’t get back until well after dark.

However, Lupe had an option.  Instead of repeating the entire trudge over all those countless passes on Centennial Trail No. 89, at Confusion Point she could take Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 instead.  This maneuver worked out perfectly!  The Carolina Dog saw territory she had never seen before.  Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7 was easy, too!  Much straighter, with far less up and down than Centennial Trail No. 89.

The first of many tiny cattail ponds along Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7.
Exploring Grizzly Creek Trail No. 7.
Evening draws nigh.

Lupe made rapid progress.  When she reached the S end of Horsethief Lake Trail No. 14, she took it all the way to Horsethief Lake.  Arriving at the lake before dark, a short stroll through the campground to Hwy 244 was all that remained to return to the Big Pine trailhead.  (7:28 PM, 59°F)

Even though Lupe had climbed to 5,660 feet on Horsethief Trail No. 14, she’d made it all the way back to Big Pine in only 3.5 hours!  No stars, no moon, no long march in the dark.

That was OK!  Lupe had explored all of Centennial Trail No. 89 between Big Pine and the Iron Mountain Horse Camp.  In 11.5 hours, she’d made a big figure 8 through the heart of the Black Elk Wilderness.  It had all been fun!  What sounded like fun now, though, was a ride home to her Alpo and a long snooze.

Evening at Horsethief Lake, Black Hills of South Dakota 4-20-18

Notes:  Big Pine trailhead and the Iron Creek Horse Camp are at roughly the same elevation.  Estimated total elevation gain (and loss) going from Big Pine to Iron Creek Horse Camp on Centennial Trail No. 89 is 1,781 feet.  Elevation gain (and loss) via Lupe’s return route on the Grizzly Creek and Horsethief Lake trails was only 964 feet.  Total gain (loss) of 2,745 feet round trip.

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition                 Prior Black Hills Expedition

Next Trail Section North

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 130 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Samelius to Big Pine & Horsethief Lake (5-23-15)

Next Trail Section South

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 272 – Centennial Trail No. 89: Iron Creek Horse Camp to Badger Hole (4-1-21)

Centennial Trail No. 89 Brochure & Map

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