Dingo Vacations – Page 57 – The (Mostly) True Adventures of Lupe

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 256 – Deerfield Trail No. 40: Daugherty Trailhead to Signal Knob & Deerfield Lake (10-30-20)

8:36 AM, 26ºF, Mystic Road, Daugherty trailhead, Deerfield Trail No. 40 –

After that big storm last week, I never dreamed there would be so little snow up here, Loopster! We could have gone up to the high country, if I’d realized it was going to be practically snow-free.

Still can if you want to, SPHP, but this is fine with me.

Eh, I didn’t plan anything out for up there thinking the G6 wouldn’t even be able to get close. Maybe we should just go with the flow? You can knock out a section of the Deerfield trail today. We might even have time for a side excursion to Signal Knob (6,200 ft.) for some peakbagging fun!

You know I’m not picky, SPHP. Happy just to be here! If you are, too, let’s go! Don’t want to keep the early squirrels waiting!

Somehow I doubt an American Dingo is what the squirrels are hoping for, but onward! Puppy, ho!

Lupe was on it, anxious to make tracks and get in some long overdue sniffing action. Sprinting ahead, she left the Daugherty trailhead of Deerfield Trail No. 40 following USFS Road No. 182 W up Whitetail Gulch. Daugherty Gulch was 0.75 mile S of here, and why this wasn’t called the Whitetail trailhead instead of Daugherty had always been a mystery to SPHP.

However, it was more of a curiosity than a real mystery. Whatever the answer was, it made no difference at all to Lupe.

Waiting impatiently at the **Daugherty trailhead** for the photo to get snapped so the day’s adventures can begin.

Not a cloud in the sky! Tiny sunlight diamonds sparkled on thin layers of frost and snow. The air was crisp and clean, summer’s smoky skies at long last a thing of the past. Deerfield Trail No. 40 wound gradually up Whitetail Gulch past ponderosa pine covered slopes and naked aspens. A tiny creek trickled in the ditch next to the roadbed. The road crossed it 10 minutes from the trailhead.

On USFS Road No. 182, which doubles as Deerfield Trail No. 40 in Whitetail Gulch.

Loop returning from one of her romps ahead.

At the tiny stream crossing 10 minutes from the trailhead.

A long straight stretch bordered by white-barked aspens.

All of the terrain Deerfield Trail No. 40 would take Lupe through today was pretty easy stuff. Some variation, of course, but mostly a series of long gentle inclines and descents. A good 0.5+ mile from the trailhead, Whitetail Gulch curved S. The trail, however, continued W a little way before making a short steeper jog up to the N. Turning W again, the road leveled out, reaching a high point shortly after passing No. 182.1D, a side road on the R (N).

Just beyond this high point, the Deerfield Trail curved SSW as it began a gradual descent. Some open ground provided Lupe with her first views of nearby hills. Nothing too spectacular, but pleasant enough.

At the curve beyond the junction with USFS Road No. 182.1D. Photo looks SW.

Lupe was soon past the open grassy region. The trail now dipped more steeply down into a shady canyon, entering a different drainage. At the bottom, the road crossed Crooked Creek, which was considerably larger than the tiny creek in Whitetail Gulch, but still a small stream. Paving blocks in Crooked Creek made for a trivial stream crossing.

Immediately beyond Crooked Creek, the road forked. A brown Deerfield Trail fiberglass wand was in sight ahead along the L branch. Going that way, Loop quickly came to a second Crooked Creek crossing, also blessed with paving stones.

At the first **Crooked Creek** crossing. Stay L at the road fork ahead!

The second **Crooked Creek** crossing was only a few hundred feet farther.

Crooked Creek was a major low point. From here, Deerfield Trail No. 40 climbed steadily following the creek valley higher. Within 10 minutes, Lupe arrived at another place where the road forked. She stayed to the R entering a shaded, narrower portion of the valley. A snowy trek on a straight stretch led to a curve to the L where the road crossed Crooked Creek yet again, which this time flowed beneath it in a culvert.

Immediately beyond the culvert crossing, the road curved sharply R (NW), starting up a hill at a steeper pace. However, Deerfield Trail No. 40 parted from the road at this curve. SPHP nearly missed the trail as it headed off to the L. The only sign was 25 feet from the road where a big ponderosa pine had a metal “40” diamond nailed to its trunk, and a pink ribbon could be seen behind it flapping in the breeze.

Heading W up the S side of the **Crooked Creek valley** after the 2nd stream crossing.

Looper at the fork 10 minutes W of the 2nd Crooked Creek crossing. Stay to the R here!

By the big ponderosa pine with the 40 diamond and pink ribbon. The trail has just left the road 25 feet back and is now a single track. Don’t miss this turn! Photo looks SW.

Deerfield Trail No. 40 now continued SW up Crooked Creek as a single track. At first, the single track looked a little like an abandoned ATV trail, but soon lost that characteristic as it promptly entered a narrow, V-shaped valley. The shady forest seemed dank and dark, but the trail was easy to follow.

Before long, Lupe came to another creek crossing. This one was a bit of a mess. A mostly frozen-over pool of water was surrounded by deadfall and tree trunks that had been cut to clear the trail, but which were still crowding the crossing. The ice wasn’t thick enough to be trusted, and getting past this little spot was more trouble than it ought to have been. On the far side, SPHP had to crawl under a downed spruce, but the Carolina Dog enjoyed plenty of clearance.

As it turned out, Loopster came to 3 of these stream crossings in quick succession. None were significant obstacles, but they did slow SPHP down, which admittedly doesn’t take much.

First of the 3 **Crooked Creek** crossings that came in rapid succession.

Second crossing. The log next to Lupe would have made this one a cinch, if it hadn’t been icy.

Shortly after Lupe passed the third stream crossing, the valley turned S and began to open up. The single track reached an old forest service road again, which continued up the valley at an easy pace, crossing Crooked Creek one last time at a point where the stream was a simple rock hop, almost a step-across.

The old road eventually began curving R (W), and soon arrived at a 3-way junction at a sunny clearing. Another 3-way junction was just 150 feet away up a hill to the S. A check of SPHP’s maps showed that all Lupe had to do was continue straight W on a road clearly marked as USFS Road No. 443.

The valley opens up after the 3 rapid succession stream crossings. Loop is approaching a final easy Crooked Creek ford just ahead. Photo looks SSW.

*Still following Crooked Creek higher, but we won’t have to cross it again!* Photo looks SW.

*2 different 3-way junctions in this area. Stay straight W on No. 443!* Photo looks WSW.

No. 443 headed W from the junction, then gradually curved NW. What was left of Crooked Creek was still on the L (S) side of the road, but was now largely reduced to a strip of mucky terrain with only a little free flowing water among tufted grasses. A little after No. 443 turned NW, Lupe reached an unmarked fork.

Directly ahead, a grassy slope lay between the two choices, either a road to the R (N) which went uphill into an area where several trees had pink plastic ribbons tied around them, or a road to the L (W).

The road to the L looked more heavily trafficked, as though it might be a continuation of No. 443. After some debate, Lupe went that way. She soon came to a place where the hillside N of the road had been carved away by a bulldozer. In fact, the guilty bulldozer was still rusting away up in the scar. Orange signs in the trees nearby said this was an “active” mine site, but it sure didn’t look like it.

Part of the carved up hillside N of the trail. Photo looks E.

Looking ahead. No. 443, if that’s what it still was, continues W. Photo looks W.

Continuing W past the inactive active mine site, the road soon curved NW again, leaving the last remaining trickle of Crooked Creek behind for good. Lupe came to a 3-way junction in a large clearing. A tree on the E side of this junction had a 40 diamond nailed to it. The positioning made it look like this meant the road heading NE up a little hill was actually the Deerfield Trail, not the way Loop had just come.

Wondering if the road from the NE was a continuation of the branch to the R that Loopster had not taken at the last fork before the mine, SPHP led her up to the top of the little hill. Off to the L (N) was a somewhat higher ridge that looked like it might provide some distant views. The road kept going NE, instead of bending around to the R (S) like it should have if it was going to head back to that last fork.

Inconclusive. Didn’t really matter. SPHP was certain Lupe needed to go back down and take the road going SW. She sure didn’t need to be going NE. Might as well forget this for now. Maybe the Carolina Dog had taken a little shortcut by going past the mine, and maybe she hadn’t, but it was true that she hadn’t seen any 40’s along the road that went by the mine.

Lupe reached this junction from the R (SE). However, the 40 diamond on the pine at R seemed to indicate that this road to the NE (Center) had been the correct route. Photo looks NE.

On a brief foray to the NE to see if this was the route Lupe should have been on. Result: inconclusive. Photo looks NE.

Lupe turned around, went back down the little hill, and continued SW past the 3-way junction. The road climbed gradually for a while, then leveled out. Was this the place? Nothing stood out, but then again, that was to be expected. There wouldn’t be anything to make it stand out. A brown fiberglass “40” wand confirmed Loopster was definitely on the Deerfield Trail again.

On the flat high ground. Photo looks SW.

A long time ago, the Carolina Dog had been this way. In fact, back in the early days of her Black Hills expeditions she had traveled both the entire Deerfield and Centennial trails, among the longest in the Black Hills. That was years before she had her very own adventure Dingo blog. In the last few years, Loop had revisited some sections of both trails, which was more or less what this expedition was all about, too.

Today’s re-exploration had all seemed like a completely new voyage of discovery. Nothing had triggered memories of having been here before until now. Yet a growing eerie feeling of long lost familiarity still wasn’t conclusive.

Keep an eye out, Loop. I think somewhere up here the trail veers off to the R, going downhill as a single track again. If I remember right, the turn is marked, but still easy to miss.

I’ll try, SPHP, but I’m sort of busy watching for squirrels and deer, too. Are we close to the turn you’re expecting, now?

Not sure. Suddenly feel like I’m in an ancient dream walking in a real, but long forgotten land. All I really remember is being up on a stretch of flat high country like this that didn’t offer any views, and subsequently missing the turn. That scarred hill and rusting bulldozer we passed now seem vaguely familiar, too, but I could be confusing all this with some other completely different place.

Well, that’s really helpful, SPHP! Let me know if your dream walk is due to turn into a nightmare somewhere up here. Think I’ll stick to the squirrels and deer in the meantime.

The march SW went on and on, just like SPHP “remembered” it would, but Lupe still didn’t come to anything definitely recognizable, and no single track trail appeared veering off to the R. Instead, Loop eventually came to a 3-way junction SPHP had no recollection of at all with USFS Road No. 429, which was marked with a brown wand and continued SW.

*So here we are up in dreamland! Flat high ground, pine trees, no views, but an easy trek.* Photo looks SW.

*So far, so good, but still no single track off to the R (NW)!* Photo looks SW.

Junction with USFS Road No. 429. (Near **HP6006** on the **topo map**.) Photo looks SW.

No. 429 soon started dropping. Slowly at first, but Looper hadn’t gone far before she was losing elevation at a good clip. She came to a place where the road curved R (N) into a valley. SPHP called a brief halt to check maps, and take a little break. A building was off to the SW on a partially open hillside of mixed grasslands and pines.

Well, we’ve done it again, Looper.

Done what, SPHP?

Missed the turn onto the single track. No harm done, though. I suspect we’ll find it right around this bend. That grassy hillside with the building makes me think we’re getting close to Slate Prairie.

Off the official Deerfield Trail a bit, but getting close to Slate Prairie. Photo looks SW.

Loop wasn’t hungry, but SPHP ate an apple. Once it was gone, onward!

Apparently, the few brain cells that hadn’t suffered a memory dump were right. Continuing around the curve down into the valley to the NNW, Deerfield Trail No. 40 crossed the road only a few minutes from the rest spot.

By the section of single track trail Lupe’d missed. It provides a little shortcut compared to following USFS Road No. 429 around a bend to the S. Photo looks E.

From USFS Road No. 429 (which Lupe is standing on), Deerfield Trail No. 40 continues as a single track up the ravine seen beyond her. Photo looks SW.

Leaving No. 429, Lupe turned WSW following a single track up a ravine. This ravine was the upper end of the Bittersweet Creek drainage, a very small stream at this point. The creek was a mucky mess where the trail first met it. Loop avoided crossing it, staying along the S bank for a little way, waiting until SPHP found an easy spot to leap over.

A use path on the N bank led up to a boulder where it merged with the official Deerfield Trail. The use path contained a hazard the official trail did not. Several strands of rusty barbed wire from a downed fence were hidden in the grass just before the boulder. Fortunately, Lupe did not get tangled in it.

An American Dingo forges ahead after successfully avoiding a barbed wire trap only a few feet from this rock. Photo looks SW.

Following the official trail up the ravine, Loop came to a flat region on the edge of Slate Prairie. Signal Knob (6,200 ft.) could now be seen 0.6 mile to the SSE.

Approaching **Slate Prairie**. Photo looks WSW.

Signal Knob wasn’t impressive, merely a small pine-forested hill isolated out in the Slate Prairie grasslands. Lupe had been there before, more than 5.5 years ago. SPHP remembered a deadfall timber laden summit due to a severe pine bark beetle infestation.

Noon already, but Looper had been making fairly decent time. She was only a little over a mile from the Kinney Canyon trailhead, her minimum goal along the Deerfield Trail today. No more significant peaks were close to this section of the trail, so SPHP figured the Carolina Dog might as well pay Signal Knob another visit. The side trip would cost her an hour or so, but no more than that.

Leaving Deerfield Trail No. 40, Loopster struck out heading S across the rolling grasslands of Slate Prairie. After crossing a ravine containing what remained of tiny Bittersweet Creek, she passed through a big field leading to County Road No. 307. Ducking under a fence to cross the road, she was soon approaching Signal Knob from the NW.

Approaching **Signal Knob**. Photo looks SE.

The N end of Signal Knob was private property, but the S half was USFS land. Lupe circled S partway along the W slope before turning toward the summit. The entire W slope was a mess of deadfall and stickers, making what should have been a trivial romp higher a slow process.

**Signal Knob** is sort of a mess, but we knew that! Photo looks SE.

As expected, Signal Knob’s flat summit was still littered with deadfall, but patches of open ground existed, too. Despite the pine bark beetles’ work, enough trees were still standing to interfere with the views. The only really clear view was a nice one of Black Elk Peak (7,231 ft.) far to the SE. The last time Lupe had been here, it had still been Harney Peak.

**Black Elk Peak** (L of Center) from **Signal Knob**. Photo looks SE.

**Black Elk Peak** with help from the telephoto lens.

12:29 PM, 55ºF, Signal Knob – A 10-15 mph breeze blew out of the W, but it was still nice up here for almost the end of October. SPHP was glad Lupe had returned to Signal Knob. However, if she was going to get as far along Deerfield Trail No. 40 as SPHP hoped, Loop couldn’t stay long.

Time enough for a relaxing light lunch, and that was about it. Taste of the Wild for Lupe, who was somewhat hungry now. Another apple for SPHP. A small chocolate coconut bar served as desert. Naturally, it got shared with the insistent sweet tooth Dingo.

Back on **Signal Knob** for the first time in more than 5.5 years. Photo looks NW.

Relaxing a bit before pressing on. Photo looks S.

A pleasant 20 minutes, and it was time to go. At least the Carolina Dog had one minor peakbagging success to show for the day! Bidding Signal Knob farewell, Lupe started down the W slope again. The lower part wasn’t forested, and actually provided quite nice views of the E edge of the limestone plateau region off to the W.

A number of peaks Loopster had been to before were in sight, including South Castle Rock (6,840 ft.), Castle Rock (6,783 ft.) and Nipple Butte (6,800 ft.).

**South Castle Rock** (Center) and **Castle Rock** (R of Center), both part of the same ridge. **Nipple Butte** (far R). Photo looks NW over **Slate Prairie** and more distant **Reynolds Prairie** with help from the telephoto lens.

View to the SW from the lower **W slope of Signal Knob**.

Once down off Signal Knob, Lupe went NW intent upon getting back to Deerfield Trail No. 40 again. She didn’t return to it at the exact same spot she’d left it, but picked the trail up somewhat farther W where it crossed USFS Road No. 187.

In **Slate Prairie**, almost back to Deerfield Trail No. 40. **Flag Mountain (6,937 ft.)** (far L), **Peak 6962** (L), and **White Tail Peak (6,962 ft.)** (R) in the distance. Photo looks NW.

Back at the Deerfield Trail where it crosses USFS Road No. 187. **South Castle Rock** (straight up from wand). Photo looks WNW.

From USFS Road No. 187, the trail left Slate Prairie heading W into the trees. Lupe soon came to a metal gate. At roughly 6,220 feet elevation, this gate was the highest point along the entire Deerfield Trail. From here the trail continued WNW on a long gradual descent. At the bottom, Lupe popped out onto County Road No. 307 again, the same road she’d crossed near Signal Knob.

On the other side of No. 307 was a big grassy clearing, site of the Kinney Canyon trailhead.

At the metal gate W of USFS Road No. 187. This is the high point of the entire Deerfield Trail. Photo looks W.

Losing elevation after passing the gate. Photo looks WNW.

Looking back from County Road No. 307. Photo looks ESE.

At the **Kinney Canyon trailhead**. Photo looks W.

Not yet 2:00 PM, but close to it. Looper had met her minimum goals for this Black Hills expedition. Sure would be nice to continue far enough to link up with the Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L, though. Another mile would almost do it. SPHP actually hoped the American Dingo could get even farther than that.

Wha’dya think, Loop? How are you feeling?

Great! What’s up?

We can turn around here and call it a day, but want to keep going? Be kind of fun to go all the way to the Deerfield Reservoir dam and see the lake. On the other paw, the sun goes down mighty early these days. We won’t get back to the G6 until well after dark, if we do all that.

I’m having a blast! Let’s keep going! You brought the flashlight?

Yup. Extra batteries, too, if we need ’em.

So onward it was! From Kinney Canyon, the Deerfield Trail continued SW up a little valley, now as a road again. Shortly after the trailhead was out of sight, however, the trail veered off to the R as a single track. A steady climb eventually leveled out in a young pine forest.

SW of the Kinney Canyon trailhead, the Deerfield Trail again becomes a single track as it splits off here from a short stretch of road it had been following. “40” trail wand beyond Lupe. Photo looks W.

In the young forest at the top of the next rise. Photo looks WNW.

A long descent was about to begin. Beyond the young pines, Lupe went through a second metal gate. Past the gate, she came to a big field. On the far side was a road. The last of the single track trail led over to it.

Last of the single track trail. The road leading to the junction with trail No. 40L is just ahead. Photo looks W.

Upon reaching the road, Lupe followed it R. It immediately entered the shade of a forested valley. The snowy road lost elevation more quickly than the single track had, but wasn’t steep. Winding W down this valley, Loopster came to a sign for the Deerfield Recreation Area. The junction with Lake Loop Trail No. 40L couldn’t be much farther.

A few more bends in the road, and there was the intersection at a small sunny clearing.

Entering the Deerfield Recreation Area. Photo looks NW.

*We’re getting close to the junction with Lake Loop Trail No. 40L now!* Photo looks W.

*This is it! W end of the official Deerfield Trail No. 40. Of course, it links up with No. 40L here, which goes clear around Deerfield Lake.* Photo looks SW.

A couple of signs were at the junction of No. 40 & No. 40L. One said Loop was now 7 miles from the Mystic Road trailhead, which is just another name for the Daugherty trailhead. The other sign said the Custer Trails trailhead, accessible from No. 40L, was 2 miles away.

W end of Deerfield Trail No. 40. The E end links up with Centennial Trail No. 89.

Still at the junction, but on Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L now. Photo looks N.

Only one more objective left! Lupe headed NW on Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L. Castle Creek wasn’t as far as SPHP remembered, only 0.33 mile. Another 0.33 mile past Castle Creek, and the Carolina Dog reached the top of the Deerfield Reservoir dam near its NW end.

Approaching Castle Creek below the Deerfield Reservoir dam. Photo looks NW.

**Deerfield Reservoir** from the NW end of the dam. Photo looks SSW.

A cool W breeze swept across the lake. Trotting along the length of the dam, Lupe headed for a grassy region at its opposite SE end. Leaving the dam, SPHP walked along a steep slope below a fence, stopping to rest where as much of the lake was in view as possible. Loopster thought this slope was a little too steep, but SPHP helped her get comfortable.

**Deerfield Lake** from farther along the dam. Photo looks W.

Looking back along the dam. Photo looks NW.

Tall strands of yellow grass danced in the wind. Sunlight glittered on Deerfield Reservoir as an unceasing parade of shimmering blue waves rippled into the dam’s rocky shore. Beyond the lake were ponderosa pine forested hills and ridges of the western Black Hills, dark green nearby, bluer in the distance. Other than the wind sighing in the pines, silence. Solitude.

Most of the rest of the Taste of the Wild disappeared. The last chocolate coconut bar vanished. Partially resting on SPHP’s lap, Lupe stayed a while, watching the waves.

3:11 PM, Deerfield Reservoir – Two hours until sunset. Nearly 8 miles to go. Better get with it! The American Dingo paused at the SE end of the dam for a final look, and was on her way.

The return was fun! Such a beautiful evening! Returning to Deerfield Trail No. 40, Lupe headed E. Long uphill and downhill stretches, but never very steep, and more downhill going this way than uphill. No rest breaks, no photo stops, no side trips, except a brief one that proved the road past the bulldozer and the inactive “active” mine site really was part of the official Deerfield trail.

Looper sniffed and explored to her heart’s content. In Slate Prairie, she saw cattle grazing in the fields N of Signal Knob. Later, she came upon several small groups of whitetail deer in the Crooked Creek valley.

Minus the stops, it all went by much faster than before, yet the last rays of sunlight vanished and dusk came on. A bright star appeared, most likely a planet, and as the darkness grew, a circular glow highlighted the black outlines of pines in the E.

Tomorrow was Halloween, and October’s second full moon – a blue moon. It was nearly full tonight. As the moon rose above the treetops, Deerfield Trail No. 40 became a mix of shadows and moonlight, where a homeward bound Carolina Dog roamed at will. (End 6:54 PM, 50ºF)

**Signal Knob** (R) from **Deerfield Trail No. 40**, Black Hills of South Dakota 10-30-20

Links:

Next Black Hills Expedition Prior Black Hills Expedition

Black Hills, SD Expedition No. 240 – Deerfield Lake Loop Trail No. 40L & Hat Mountain (11-14-18)

Deerfield Trail No. 40 – Map & Brochure

Want more Lupe adventures? Check out Lupe’s Black Hills, SD & WY Expeditions Adventure Index, Master Adventure Index, or subscribe free to new Lupe adventures!

Francs Peak, Absaroka Range, Wyoming (7-15-20) – Part 2: HP12064 to the Summit!

Part 2 of Day 6 of Lupe’s 2nd summer of 2020 Dingo Vacation to Wyoming & Utah!

7-15-20, 1:15 PM, 0.25 mile NNE of HP12064 – Heading N, Looper angled toward the E side of the vast, featureless ridge before her. The gradual slope higher was a relief for SPHP after the relentless, steep march up the Meadow Creek valley. Making good time now, without getting totally worn out in the process, or at least not much more worn out than SPHP already was.

So where are the roaming herds of grizzlies chasing butterflies, SPHP? They’re harder to spot up here than I would have thought.

No clue, oh sarcastic Dingo of mine! And it’s moths, not butterflies they’re after. Maybe it isn’t moth season yet?

And when would moth season be? I hardly think grizzlies would be too picky over whether they’re gobbling up moths or butterflies.

Most of the trip reports I’ve seen are from August or early September. Plenty of grizzlies digging up moths here then. In any case, we ought to be fine. If we do come to any grizzlies, we’ll spot them a mile away.

On the vast ridge N of **HP12064**. **HP12260** (R of Center), **HP12436** (R), and **HP12437** (far R). Photo looks NNE.

Didn’t take long to reach HP12260. A couple of minor rock formations were up here, but that was about it. The highest one was right along the E edge of the huge ridge, overlooking the Meadow Creek canyon. The Carolina Dog scrambled up for a look at the route she’d taken up here.

At **HP12260**. **Meadow Creek canyon** (L). **Chief Mountain (12,003 ft.)** (Center beyond Lupe’s head). Photo looks SE.

Far to the S, the Wind River range was now in sight. Loopster also had her best view yet of the many snow-capped peaks off to the W.

**Mount Crosby (12,449 ft.)** (L) and the distant **Wind River range** (Center) from **HP12260**. **HP12064** is the first ridge beyond Loop’s head. Photo looks SSW.

Of course, the most important view was the one of Loopster’s ultimate destination, Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), still more than 2 miles off to the NNW. Much more of the vast ridge leading over to it could now be seen. The gentle slopes and hills of the rocky plain before her contained no visible obstacles. Not even a single grizzly bear, either.

**Francs Peak** (L of Center) from **HP12260**. Photo looks NNW.

Abandoning HP12260, Lupe gradually lost elevation as she continued N on the enormous, rocky plain. Scattered groups of wildflowers added splashes of color to the otherwise drab terrain. Way over near the low point of the saddle leading to Francs Peak, blue and white specks could be seen next to each other. As Loop got closer, they proved to be tents.

Two tents (R) were in the saddle leading to **Francs Peak** (L). Photo looks NNW.

Instead of heading straight for Francs Peak, the American Dingo went due N all the way to the edge of a gigantic deep canyon carved by the Francs Fork of the Greybull River.

Approaching the Francs Fork canyon. Photo looks N.

**Canyon of the Francs Fork of the Greybull River**. Photo looks NE.

Another view of the same canyon. Photo looks N.

Same spot, but now looking toward **Francs Peak** (L). Photo looks NNW.

After a good look at the impressive canyon, Lupe turned W toward the tents. Upon arrival, no one appeared to be around, but when SPHP called out, someone laying in the blue tent answered. He said he was from Montana and his buddy was from Idaho. Yes, they’d come up the Meadow Creek trail, too, and had been hanging out up here for a couple of days now.

The man did not get up. Nor did he say what their plans were, or exactly what they had been doing, but he did confirm that they’d seen a couple of grizzlies. However, he was completely unconcerned. The grizzlies are well-behaved here! All graduates of an elite finishing school. No reason to worry.

Well, there was certainly no reason to worry today. Lupe hadn’t seen hide nor hair of a grizzly so far.

What are you saying, SPHP? That isn’t true! Don’t you remember that tuft of grizzly fur back down by the cabin?

Oh yeah, Loop! You’re right! That was hours ago. Kind of forgot about that. OK, so you did see hair of a grizzly, but you haven’t seen any hide. How’s that? Fair enough?

Yes, much better. Please, try to keep your stories straight from now on.

The guy in the blue tent seemed disinclined to be too chatty. After all, people often come to the mountains to get away from that sort of thing. Not wanting to ruin the fabulous job of social distancing he was doing, Lupe and SPHP pressed on.

Not far from the tents, a long, skinny snowbank nestled at the bottom of the saddle leading to Francs Peak. A stream trickling NE through it was clearly part of the headwaters of the Francs Fork of the Greybull River. Lupe sank deep in the soft snow, but didn’t mind at all on a mid-July day. Refreshing!

Enjoying the skinny snowbank! Photo looks E.

A much larger snowbank was on the E side of the next hill on the way to Francs Peak. After her snowy frolic in the saddle, Lupe headed NW up to it. Below this huge snowbank the ground was soft with moisture. A carpet of light green moss prospered in runoff from the snowfield.

The lower portion of the snowbank was very steep. Staying down in the mossy region, Lupe traveled N along its base. At the far end, she turned NW again, beginning a snow climb up a ravine SW of HP12290.

Looking ESE back at the saddle and tents (R) on the way up to the next big snowbank. The prominent knob on the L is **HP12347**. The hill on the R is **HP12346**.

Heading for the ravine (Center) SW of **HP12290** (R). Photo looks N.

A lucky butterfly. So far it hadn’t attracted any ravenous grizzlies.

The snowfield extended much farther N than evident from below. Lupe climbed steadily as SPHP trudged along behind her. As she passed W of HP12290, Francs Peak was in sight again. Only a mile away now!

**Francs Peak** (L) comes back into view. Photo looks NW.

Loop eventually made it past the upper end of the snowfield. Adopting a WNW course, she headed for the next saddle 0.5 mile N of HP12471. Francs Peak was now only 0.75 mile farther, but still 800 feet higher. Once the Carolina Dog crossed the saddle, she was going to face much steeper terrain the rest of the way, but it all still looked like a simple walk-up from here.

Along the way, SPHP noted a couple of use trails toward the lower E side of the ridge ahead. These trails went steeply up to the ridgeline close to the cliffy edge of the canyon to the E, which was another branch of the Francs Fork canyon.

In the **last big saddle S of Francs Peak**. Lupe aimed for the R (E) end of the ridge ahead. Photo looks N.

Naturally, Lupe and SPHP took advantage of these use trails, choosing the one farthest E. Other than the usual struggle against gravity, there was nothing tricky about it. Once up to the ridgeline, the route angled NW toward some big rock outcroppings, still a steady grind higher.

Staying a little toward the R (E) when she got to the rocks, Lupe climbed a lower, less formidable part of the formation band. Once on top, a little dip led to a small flat region. Beyond it was a narrow opening between more rocks that SPHP promptly dubbed Orange Lichen Pass. Framed by these rugged rock formations, the already spectacular views were even more impressive.

Approaching the rock formations. Photo looks NNW.

**Orange Lichen Pass**. Photo looks NNE.

Looking SSW after going through Orange Lichen Pass. **Wind River range** (L) on the far horizon.

500 feet and 0.5 mile yet to go! From Orange Lichen Pass, most of it was a steep climb on scree slopes coming up Francs Peak’s winding SE ridge. However, Loopster encountered no more large rock formations, and it wasn’t all endlessly up. The ridge had some lumpiness to it, a couple of hills and saddles providing welcome respites along the way.

On a hill along the SE ridge. Photo looks NW.

At last, the true summit came into view. One more little hill and a minor saddle ahead, and Lupe would be on her way up to the summit ridge. Wouldn’t be long then!

Lupe on the use trail. **True summit** (Center) in sight! Photo looks NW.

Just about there! Last saddle and final ascent ahead. Photo looks NW.

Wow! It had been a long trek from the Wood River valley all the way up Meadow Creek canyon, then miles more along the vast barren ridges to get here, but Lupe had made it up onto the S end of the summit ridge. A mere speck of a cairn, which hardly did Francs Peak (13,153 ft.) justice, was perched ahead at the true summit.

Though very tired, Lupe and SPHP marched on. A SW wind swept over the ridge at 15-25 mph, but these last few minutes, surrounded on all sides by the glories of the Absaroka Range with success assured, were full of joy.

Approaching the **true summit of Francs Peak**. Photo looks N.

4:56 PM, 55ºF, 15-25 mph SW wind – Lupe sat by the paltry cairn at the true summit of Francs Peak (13,153 ft.), magnificence all around her. The American Dingo didn’t care for the cool wind. SPHP was layering up in agreement. Nearby, one of the loose rocks bore a survey benchmark that said “FRANCS PK2 1954”.

Getting to Francs Peak seemed like a stupendous accomplishment, in fact, so stupendous that after an initial look around, resting felt like the best possible course of action. Loop had a hard time getting comfortable on the rocks, but finally found a spot to her liking. Facing into the wind, SPHP sat next to her, petting her soft fur.

**Francs Peak true summit**. Photo looks NNW.

So we didn’t get to see even a single grizzly, did we, SPHP? Not exactly thick as flies, despite those trip reports you rely on, are they? Heck, we haven’t even seen a moth! Just that one butterfly.

No, not today. But don’t give up! We still have to go all the way back, you know. Were you actually looking forward to seeing a bear?

Oh, the prospect of seeing packs of grizzlies did have a certain charm to it. Can’t do that just anywhere. Would have been exciting! A real highlight of our Francs Peak tour! Don’t you agree?

Packs of grizzlies? Guess I’m sort of dull by nature. Not sure I need that much excitement. I’m plenty happy seeing all these splendid peaks! And just think, today Carolina Dogs rule Francs Peak instead of grizzlies. How do you like them apples?

Loopster did like the ring of that notion. It was true, too! Today, in fact at this very moment, an American Dingo ruled Francs Peak!

For half an hour, Lupe and SPHP stayed there, facing SW into the wind while contemplating a panorama of inspiring peaks. Lupe had never been in the Absarokas before. SPHP didn’t know the names of any of these fabulous mountains, but far, far away, ever so faint on the WSW horizon, was a readily recognizable mountain in another range. Grand Teton (13,770 ft.), Wyoming’s most famous peak!

**Francs Peak’s SW ridge** (L foreground), **Pyramid Peak (11,750 ft.)** (L beyond it). **Mount Burwell (12,313 ft.)** (R of Center) at the upper end of the long valley on the R. Photo looks SW.

**Grand Teton** (R). Photo looks WSW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

There was a lot more to see! Batteries somewhat recharged by the rest break, Lupe and SPHP wandered the summit region, repeatedly pacing back and forth along the ridgeline while taking in the sights.

The Carolina Dog had a commanding view of Francs Peak’s NE ridge, the shorter route up for those who had 4WD, high clearance vehicles.

**Francs Peak’s NE ridge**. **HP12509** (L). Photo looks NE.

Another look from a slightly different angle. Photo looks NE.

From the end of the short W ridge, Loopster could see row upon row of amazing peaks beyond the Greybull River valley.

Exploring **Francs Peak’s short W ridge**. Summit (R). Photo looks E.

Near the **end of the W ridge** overlooking the **Greybull River valley**. Photo looks WNW.

Distant peaks to the W with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Back at the summit. **Mount Crosby (12,449 ft.)** (R) with snow patches. Photo looks SSE.

To the N, the scene was a little less dramatic, rumpled valleys and lower peaks nearby, but higher stuff toward the horizon. SPHP wondered if Trout Peak (12,244 ft.) was in view, and spotted a mountain that might have been it, but probably wasn’t. The Beartooth Range in Montana was faintly seen on the very edge of vision.

**Jack Creek drainage** with help from the telephoto lens. Photo looks NNW.

**Trout Peak** (Center)? Eh, maybe, but probably not. Just a guess. Photo looks NNW with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

Due E, beyond the enormous Francs Fork of the Greybull River canyon, barren looking Jojo Mountain (12,561 ft.) was in sight. The Wyoming plains could be seen off in the distance.

**Jojo Mountain** (Center). Photo looks E.

Far to the SSE, a prominent peak stood out from all others in that general direction. SPHP thought a topo map would make it easy to figure out what peak that was later on, but was never able to positively determine the true identity of “Mystery Mountain”.

**Mystery Mountain** (R of Center) on the horizon. Photo looks SSE.

Another look. **Mystery Mountain** (Center). Photo looks SSE.

Compared to the territory Lupe had seen N of Francs Peak, the valleys to the S were greener, and the mountains had more snow. On the distant horizon, the mighty Wind River range could be made out. Some of the jagged glacier-clad giants along the spine of the range sprang into focus with the help of the camera’s telephoto lens.

View to the S. **Wind River range** faintly on the horizon.

**Wind River range**. Photo looks S with lots of help from the telephoto lens.

6:21 PM, Francs Peak – An hour and 25 minutes gone by. Getting late. The sad moment when the inevitable had to happen was here. An hour and 25 minutes after arriving, Lupe once again stood in the wind at the summit of Francs Peak. SPHP left.

The Carolina Dog was now alone, waiting for the signal to come.

The signal came. The race was on. The American Dingo streaked S along the ridgeline, overtaking SPHP in a flash. However, the race was not against SPHP, but time, and it had just begun.

Atta girl, Looper! Oh, it’s a long, long way! We better make some tracks! Gotta get back to the Meadow Creek trail before the light is gone.

Loopster paused at the S end of the summit ridge for a final look before beginning the steep descent in earnest. Then it was down the scree slopes, across the saddles and minor hills along the SE ridge. Every now and then, SPHP requested that she stop briefly for photos at especially scenic points.

At the S end of the summit ridge before heading down. Photo looks S.

On the way down to the vast ridge leading back to the Meadow Creek trail. Photo looks SSE.

Atop a rock formation near Orange Lichen Pass. Photo looks SW.

The last photo came at Orange Lichen Pass, where Mystery Mountain could still be seen looming in the distance. Not that there weren’t more wonderful moments during the return. It was all beautiful, a fabulous evening trek buoyed by Lupe’s success at Francs Peak, and weighed down by ever increasing weariness. The need for speed, to the degree it could be maintained, now took precedence.

**Mystery Mountain** (Center) from **Orange Lichen Pass**. Photo looks SSE.

On the way back, Looper did not pass by the tents again, instead taking a shortcut well SW of them. Nor did she return to the summit of HP12260, although she came within 40 feet elevation-wise as she passed W of it on her journey S.

The sun was down by the time the Carolina Dog reached the Meadow Creek trail again. This time no leaving it! No repeat of this morning’s mistakes. As light faded, Lupe and SPHP sped down the trail. At one point there was a slightly scary snowfield to cross. Once beyond it, the pace picked up again.

Perhaps it was inevitable. As dusk deepened, the trail grew fainter just as rapidly as the fading light. After rounding the end of the big ridge that extended E into the middle of the Meadow Creek basin, SPHP lost the trail completely. Even Loop didn’t seem to know where it went.

Oh, well. Hopefully, no disaster. Lupe had made it down to the region of scattered pines and open meadows. If she just kept going down the canyon, all she had to do was pick up the trail again before it crossed Meadow Creek.

The flashlight came out. The march lower resumed in weak flickering light. Stars were now shining overhead. Everything else was black, black, black. Weariness demanded rest breaks. Alright. 5 minutes each time. Then onward! It was clear the Carolina Dog would have preferred to spend the night.

After a while, Lupe did come upon a trail again. Encouraging! But as she followed it E, on and on deeper into the canyon, SPHP began to fret. Had Loop found the trail too late? Could the creek crossing really be this far? Had it been missed way back up there somewhere? Didn’t really make sense, though. Could there really be 2 trails up here?

For a long way, Meadow Creek could be heard, but not seen, somewhere below off to the R (S). Several times hopes rose as the trail threatened to go down to the stream, but each occurrence proved a false start. Finally, a switchback! This was it. How big was Meadow Creek going to be? The American Dingo had not crossed it on the way to Francs Peak.

Well, not a rock hop, but not too scary, either. Exhaustion was setting in. Hardly pausing, SPHP splashed across, feet and pants legs getting soaked, but only below the knee. If Loopster had any problems with Meadow Creek, she didn’t say so, but she arrived on the S bank wringing wet halfway up her chest.

Now that she was across Meadow Creek, it was certain Lupe would make it back to the G6 tonight. All she had to do was stick with the trail. It all became a blur. Longer, steeper, rockier than SPHP remembered. Rest breaks laying in the dirt, even though it was virtually all downhill. In the black forest, both time and the trail stretched to infinity.

So what if we come to a grizzly here in the forest, SPHP? What’s the plan? Still want me to just growl and stick with you?

No, don’t bother with that now, Looper. The grizzly will already be upon us if we meet one here in the night. New plan! Since I don’t have anything left in the pack for you, just go ahead and eat any grizzlies we come to.

Oh, I am hungry! Fresh bear steak does sound good! Plenty left over for you, too, SPHP.

Thanks, Loop! I can hardly wait. C’mon, let’s keep going.

Down, down! At last, Lupe reached the landslides, got across them, and was on the countless long switchbacks. Almost home free! However, near the bottom, the trail faded away. Criminy! What next? Lost in a wretched tangle of deadfall!

Took a while, but Loop managed to thrash through it all. Suddenly, she was on the road! Yes! Which way? Dark outlines of the mountains against the night sky said R. 5 minutes, and the exhausted American Dingo was at the G6. (7-16-20, 2:01 AM, 44ºF)

7-16-20, 6:54 AM, USFS Road No. 200, Wood River ford 0.33 mile from the Meadow Creek trailhead – Lupe’s Francs Peak adventures might be over, but the G6’s weren’t. Not until it got through 3 fords again, and back to the better road that started at the Brown Mountain campground without being swept away or popping a tire.

A beautiful morning! The Carolina Dog stood on the bank of the shining Wood River at the first and worst of the 3 fords, while SPHP assessed the situation. Maybe stay more to the R on the way through the ford instead of foolishly charging right through it like last time?

First **Wood River ford** on the way out. Photo looks NE.

Yup! Staying R was better. No bogging down. The G6 was a champ! Half an hour later, Lupe was on smooth gravel in the scenic Wood River valley cruising toward Meeteetse, happily barking at cows along the way.

So what now, SPHP? Where we going next?

Oh, we’re going to rest up, take it easy for the next couple of days, then it’s on to the next big thing. How does the Wind River range sound to you?

Lupe was happy with that. The Wind River range is awesome! And as long as the Carolina Dog is on the road to adventure, life just can’t get any better.